# 68 gen light w/HEI



## rlslavik (Jun 21, 2014)

Hey all,
I just installed a D.U.I HEI distributor on my 68 gto 400 th400 - originally had points.
Now my GEN light won't shut off and my signal lights are dead.

The instructions said to remove and replace the red wire from IGN1 on the switch with a 12 gauge wire running directly to the distributor feed.
I did that. It fired right up and ran great.

But the Gen light stays on and the signal lights don't work.

The wire cut from IGN 1 originally fed the fuse box, which in turn fed the signal lights as well as back up lights etc.
Now that wire is dead from the key switch since it is cut.

On the distributor side 2 wires originally connected to the coil.
1 from IGN 2 on the switch, 1 from KEY+ (center) on the switch.

Upon installation both were cut at the coil and the IGN2 was connected to the new 12 gauge wire.
As mentioned, it ran fine but GEN and signal light issues started.

I have since cut BOTH IGN2 and KEY+ completely out of the system and it still runs great but the GEN/signal light issues still remain.

The fuse box obviously still needs to be fed power to make the signal lights etc work.

The 68 schematic shows a key switch different from mine or at least it is LABELED different and I am a bit confused.

How do I get power to feed the signal light,backup light portion on the fuse box but NOT have the GEN light come on?


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## PontiacJim (Dec 29, 2012)

Well, I have never cut into my ignition switch on such a swap and just added a 12 volt wire to the electronic distributor from another source. The wire you cut and replaced was the resistor wire needed for the points and you added a "straight" wire to feed 12 Volts.

I would have not cut a thing as instructed. Instead I would have added the 12 ga wire in parallel to the IGN 1 wire. making sure it came off IGN 1 at the same point the resistor wire fed into the harness plug. Then run it up to the coil, still keeping the both factory wires at the coil and adding the 12 ga wire to the post of the coil. No cutting of any wires would have been needed and none of the systems would have been compromised - and it could have been returned to the stock points type distributor should anyone want to do this in the future. I don't think you should have cut 2 wires off the ignition, just the one wire needed for the direct 12 volts. Can you add the other wire back? I would try this first and see what happens.

I would call DUI on their tech help line and get their fix on resolving your light issues since they were the people who instructed you to cut/replace the resistor wire and add the 12 ga feed wire.

There are ways of shutting down the GEN light with a jumper wire, but I don't know if this will have any effect on your signal lights. DUI will probably know exactly what your problem is and have a valid fix to get your car up and running again without any guesswork or fried wiring. :thumbsup:


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## rlslavik (Jun 21, 2014)

In the beginning I DID add the new fat wire to the IGN1 on the switch- the new one was plugged in directly and the old one was connected to it.

I no longer HAVE an "old school" coil so wiring to that can't be done.

I called Performance Distributors yesterday and again today.

They said put everything back to original wiring with the two original wires to the coil tied to each other and taped off.
Then connect the new fat power wire to the "I" terminal of the solenoid instead of the switch.
ALL fine except the is NO "I" terminal ON the solenoid.

Calling back today they said connect to any part of the solenoid that is 12 volts with the key switch ON - but do NOT connect to the battery wire/terminal.

With a volt meter I see there is NO point on the solenoid that is 12 volts with the key switch in the ON position
EXCEPT for the Battery wire/terminal.

3 terminals - R S and the Battery post.

2 guys on the phone admitted to having no real clue...
I gave them hell.

I suppose what I am looking for is another place to connect to with 12 volts any time the key switch in ON.

The natural idea would be the fuse box but THAT is what I am trying to get power to in the 1st place...

It CAN'T be this complicated.

Perhaps I need to connect to one of the smaller 3 wires running into the TOP of the distributor (new coil) that come from the BASE of the distributor...


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## PontiacJim (Dec 29, 2012)

The "S" post will have the purple "start" wire coming from your ignition switch when you turn the key to fire up your car. The other post, "R" only becomes a hot 12V when the starter is turning/activated - so not a good source to use for constant 12V

Your ignition switch should have a lug or tow which has 12V when the key is in the "Run" position. Just turn the key "On", not all the way to "Start", and stick your 12V tester into the back side of the ignition switch plug while it is plugged into the switch. You might also find another wire, relay on the fire wall (?) that powers up when the key is in the "On" position somewhere in the wire harness or run it off the fuse box as some fuse boxes do not use all the connectors even though they are installed for factory options - which don't always come with every car.

Sorry to hear of so much trouble, and the TECH guys suck! They should be able to walk you through it seeing it is their product. I believe the "I" terminal they were referring to is the small post found on a Ford solenoid, not a GM type solenoid.


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## Lemans guy (Oct 14, 2014)

Pontiac Jim is spot on as usual!.....look on the firewall for the Horn relay, down under the master brake cylinder....

the horn relay is a place to grab KOEO power,...test with your meter..

the Generator warning light//// you really want it is a unique and good light to have it works like this.... 

a brown wire from the back of the alternator, or (from the voltage regulator) you can have it either way.....runs to one side of the warning light.....

the other side of the warning light....(which you interrupted)....gets voltage from another KOEO supply...

when the alternator is running both sides have the same voltage and the light does not light....

but when one side or the other loses voltage, the warning light goes on...sometimes it flickers which means your alt or belt are not keeping up...

So as long as you supply that voltage to the other side of the warning light it will be restored....as far as the other lights, likely they were just on the same fuse.....

I like Pontiac Jim's solution best....go back to where it was and add or combine as directed by the HEI supplier, but don't eliminate....

you will get it frustrating but doable...Good Luck!


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## Lemans guy (Oct 14, 2014)

Pontiac Jim is spot on as usual!.....look on the firewall for the Horn relay, down under the master brake cylinder....

the horn relay is a place to grab KOEO power,...test with your meter..

the Generator warning light//// you really want it is a unique and good light to have it works like this.... 

a brown wire from the back of the alternator, or (from the voltage regulator) you can have it either way.....runs to one side of the warning light.....

the other side of the warning light....(which you interrupted)....gets voltage from another KOEO supply...

when the alternator is running both sides have the same voltage and the light does not light....

but when one side or the other loses voltage, the warning light goes on...sometimes it flickers which means your alt or belt are not keeping up...

So as long as you supply that voltage to the other side of the warning light it will be restored....as far as the other lights, likely they were just on the same fuse.....

I like Pontiac Jim's solution best....go back to where it was and add or combine as directed by the HEI supplier, but don't eliminate....

you will get it frustrating but doable...Good Luck!


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## rlslavik (Jun 21, 2014)

Yep,
It appears PontiacJim hit the nail on the head.
I poked around with a 12 volt tester and found Keyononlypower at the 2 brown wires coming out of the switch (ACC).
1 feeds the voltage regulator, the other feeds radio, heater control power etc..
I attached to that and everything appears fine,
No gen light when running, signal light and backup light operating.
One of those wires also feeds the fuse box in the adjacent position so that is another attachment point.

It ran and appeared fine today so tomorrow I'll be taping up all the wires and stuffing them back under the dash,
reinstall the gauges, dash pad, seat etc, and get it road tested.

Thanks for the help and I'll give Performance Distributors a call Monday to update them.
They really need to be better informed to be able able to help the "next guy".

I AM happy with their product however.
But it will get a BETTER test after this thing is all back together.

Thanks again
Maybe this will help the next guy.


Thanks again.


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## PontiacJim (Dec 29, 2012)

"Yep, It appears PontiacJim hit the nail on the head."

Ya, buddy, you know where the Pontiac experts can be found - on this forum. :bannana:


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