# Help out a noobie....?



## PisnNapalm (Aug 28, 2010)

*Help out a noobie....? (Now with lots of pictures)*

Hello all,

I'm hoping to get some help and opinions. 

I have always loved the 1967 GTO. It's been my dream car for...well, forever.

I have a chance to buy a 1967 LeMans that has the GTO 400 engine in it. I'm told by the owner's wife that it has a new engine in it and the only real issue is that it needs the lower control arms replaced.

The body has some, what initially appears to be minor rust and paint bubbles.

The asking price is $5,000.

I have a mechanic whom I trust and will definitely have him put the car up on the rack and give it a good once over.

So.... My initial questions are::

1. Is this a fair price for a "sort of GTO clone"?
2. How much will it cost to have the control arms replaced? (I've priced the parts online but there is a fairly large range in prices) 
3. Are there any trouble spots or problems that I should be extra careful to check for?

I don't know too much about the car yet. I won't be able to speak to the actual owner until Monday. His wife was home today, but didn't know a whole lot other than it has a new 400 engine in it and the control arms are shot.

Thank you in advance for your help and patience.

PN


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## Rukee (Feb 8, 2007)

Buy it!!!! :cheers


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## crustysack (Oct 5, 2008)

replacing the control arms is a pretty easy job- I would think your mechanic could do it for less than $500 plus parts- and if you are mechanically inclined at all you could do it yourself. Great thing about these cars is that they are SIMPLE good luck hope you get it


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## PisnNapalm (Aug 28, 2010)

Thank you for the replies.

I spoke with a friend of mine who used to work as a mechanic. He said more than likely it's not the control arms but the bushings that have gone bad.

I'll know alot more once I get it on a lift and check it out.


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## jetstang (Nov 5, 2008)

Sounds like a decent price, need pics. 
Where is the car from? And where did it live it's life.
If the mechanic could put a motor in, why didn't he replace the control arm bushings?
Control arm bushings are $50, but you have to pull the springs, so it's a labor job, but not bad.
Check everywhere for bondo with a magnet, check the frame, check it close. My 66 looked presentable, then I started grinding and it was a bondo buggy, be carefull. If the magnet doesn't stick, it isn't metal.


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## Eric Animal (Oct 28, 2007)

PisnNapalm said:


> Thank you for the replies.
> 
> I spoke with a friend of mine who used to work as a mechanic. He said more than likely it's not the control arms but the bushings that have gone bad.
> 
> I'll know alot more once I get it on a lift and check it out.


Usually it is lower ball joints and/or bushings all available any average mechanic will have the tools and skills to do the job. MY main concern would be body condition...rust, dents, prior repairs could all lead into a bodyand paint job $$$$. Mechanical stuff, you can do a little at a time while you "learn" your car......$ 5000 sounds like a decent price for a nice old "driver" :cheers


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## PisnNapalm (Aug 28, 2010)

Eric Animal said:


> Usually it is lower ball joints and/or bushings all available any average mechanic will have the tools and skills to do the job. MY main concern would be body condition...rust, dents, prior repairs could all lead into a bodyand paint job $$$$. Mechanical stuff, you can do a little at a time while you "learn" your car......$ 5000 sounds like a decent price for a nice old "driver" :cheers


Yup he also mentioned that the ball joints could be worn out. 

I hope that the body is in good shape with no major rust. I will be keeping it in the garage and while in my care it should not ever see rain or snow again. 

I want a good driving car that I can cruise on the weekends and tinker with during the week.

My major problem though is... me. I think I know just enough to be dangerous. Know what I mean? :lol:

Thanks again for the replies. If the body checks out and there are no major immediate expensive issues, I hope to purchase the car soon.


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## jetstang (Nov 5, 2008)

If it has rust bubbles, your going to paint it in the future. Then rebuild the front end. Then, then, then.. You're going to invest well over the initial investment in the car, that is a given, but that is the hobby. You gotta start somewhere, so good luck. At least you are getting a really cool car to start with!!


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## PisnNapalm (Aug 28, 2010)

Hopefully tomorrow I can get it to my mechanic and have it up on the lift. I've got a good list of places to check for rust among other things.

I've got my flashlight and magnet ready to go. 

I did get to speak with the owner last night. He gave me a short list of problems that he knows about. (There's probably a lot more but...)

1. He said there's a tab on the distributor that has broken off. It was to kept it from turning... I'm not sure what he was talking about. He said the car runs just fine but it's something I'll want to replace. (I was thinking of switching to an electronic ignition in the future anyway)

2. There is a leak in the power steering. Says it's not a bad leak but he does have to add fluid from time to time. (I don't know if it's a hose/line that's leaking or something major.

3. It overheats when the weather is very hot. (Might need a new/larger radiator or just a new thermostat. Dunno about that yet)

4. Water does get into the trunk probably around the deck lid seal. (This worries me quite a bit) It's been sitting outside for a couple years now.

5. It needs new window seals.

EDIT:: I'll take pictures tomorrow and post them here.


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## twinjracing (Aug 28, 2010)

my exparance in the past with a bodys in the front end is rebild every thing at once if you haft to pull th a-arms they have hole kits on eivl bay for a bout $350. last time i looked. water i the trunk is a consern check seal also check the panel between the back window and trunk lid i have heard of some leaking there. also check trunk floor if water has been sitting in it. sounds like a good deal if not a bondo buggy.


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## twinjracing (Aug 28, 2010)

One thing i forgot th heating problem might just be th fan if it's stock change cluch. Is there a shroud? that makes a big difrence with it's like pulling thou a straw with out is just bating air around. i went to dual electric on my drag car no problems. befor i tryed everything with a flex fan.


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## PisnNapalm (Aug 28, 2010)

Well, I took lots of pictures today as well as had my mechanic check out the car. 

Please be patient and wait to reply until after I've finished posting pics, info and questions. Thank you.

Here we go....

EDIT:: Just noticed Herbie making an appearance in the background.








*
Along the passenger side from front to rear::*
































































Be patient.... more pics to come. I can only post 10 at a time... So that's the first eight.


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## PisnNapalm (Aug 28, 2010)

*Rear and side window channel::*




























*Rear of the car::*


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## PisnNapalm (Aug 28, 2010)

*Driver side from rear to front::*


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## PisnNapalm (Aug 28, 2010)

*Front of the car and hood::*














































*Engine and underneath::*


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## PisnNapalm (Aug 28, 2010)

*More underneath::*

*Front disc brakes appeared to be in good condition.*










*Rear drums brakes. The right rear axle seal is leaking into the drum.
*








*
Underside of the rear bumper*


















*This shows the worst rust that I found on the car. It was under the passenger side door::*


















*This shows where one of the original LeMans front turn signals had been removed.*














So..... Here's a list of things it needs immediately in order to be road safe in my opinion.

1. One of power steering hoses has a major leak. That should be a cheap and easy fix.
2. It needs 4 new tires and an alignment.
3. The carb needs replaced. He thinks it's the original Quadrajet. The car runs rough at idle but still has good power when driving.

Other issues that need addressed are::

1. A new radiator and fan ( the fan is precautionary as its still using a clutch run by the engine. I think switching to an electric setup would be better)
2. There's a minor oil leak at the rear of the pan somewhere but it's hard to tell where because of all the power steering fluid all over the place.
3. The rust. I don't think there's a whole lot to be honest. I was stunned. I took pictures of all that I found.

The trunk is solid inside. No signs of rust at all, though he did have a colony of ants in there. 

The guy wants $5,000 and not a penny less. Is this car worth that much money? 

Thanks again for all your time looking at the pictures and help with my questions. :cheers


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## PisnNapalm (Aug 28, 2010)

Can someone help decode the data plate?










I got most of it figured out the only two codes I haven't found are::

214 <==supposed to be the interior color code but I can't find it here:: 1967 GTO Specifications - UltimateGTO.com
G <=== axle code for 3.23 rear end??


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## 05GTO (Oct 6, 2004)

That is a fine looking car, you have 3 options in my opinion;

1) Restore it back to a Tempest Custom and paint,

2) Complete the GTO cloning by changing the tail panel, change to the correct rocker moldings, change the badges, plug the metal for the old badges and paint.

3) Keep the car as-is and drive it as you work on the body and then paint her,

The car is well worth $5,000 and I would be proud to drive it in it's current condition.


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## jetstang (Nov 5, 2008)

Keep it a Lemans, those rear emblems are so cool, all offset, neat car! I don't know the 235 vin, Lemans are 237?

Is it worth the money? Yes, buy it and say thank you!! A carb rebuild should straighten it out. Motor looks pretty fresh, not coated with goop, paint burnt off the exhaust ports is normal. The rust popping out is not that bad, but may be the tip of the iceberg, but nothing like a northern car. Power steering leak is easy fix, new pump or hoses, under $100. Rain gutters looks like the seam sealer is pealing up, and may be some rust. Bumpers and chrome look to be in great shape. Somebody took care of that car at one point.
Good luck.


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## PisnNapalm (Aug 28, 2010)

I was initially confused when decoding the plate. It has the code for the Tempest Custom but a previous owner put Le Mans badges on it...? And then there's the GTO badges on the front side panels.

If I do buy this car I will probably do a GTO clone with modern bits underneath the body.


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## 66tempestGT (Nov 28, 2009)

:agree wash it and go. well worth it to me.


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## PisnNapalm (Aug 28, 2010)

I am going to buy this car. I've never bought a classic before but I think I have a fair idea of what to expect.

It has a 2 speed auto in it right now. I would like to change it out at some point. What are the best options for a replacement transmission? How difficult would it be switching to a manual transmission? I've never owned anything but manuals.

Oh and I found out more info about the engine rebuild it had last year.

The crank was ground to 20 over and 20 under. ( not sure what that means but I'm going to find out)
The cylinders were bored to 30 over... again... not sure. It does have the Pontiac 400 engine.
It has moly rings and a ram air 3 cam. It also had a valve job and guides replaced.

So... thoughts??


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## Rukee (Feb 8, 2007)

Crank is 20-20 under, meaning both the mains and rod journals are turned to 0.020" under size.
No such thing as '20 over' for the bearings, unless he's talking stroke.


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## PisnNapalm (Aug 28, 2010)

Rukee said:


> Crank is 20-20 under, meaning both the mains and rod journals are turned to 0.020" under size.
> No such thing as '20 over' for the bearings, unless he's talking stroke.


You're right... I looked back at my notes and the mains and rods are 20-20.


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## 6T5GOAT (Nov 23, 2008)

Judging by the sealant around the back window it may be rusted underneath and leaking. You can get inside the trunk and look at it from the bottom. That is a very common area to be rusted on this body style. 
I like the car and think $5000 is a good deal from the description and photos. If it were mine I would not clone it, I would remove the GTO badges but keep the hood and grilles. Good luck with whatever you decide to do.


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## jetstang (Nov 5, 2008)

Dont' buy it..
Just post the location and phone number so we can check it out for you.

All sounds good, if it drives out good, that is better.
Are there any driving issues with the car?
Going to a 4 speed is going to be extensive, easier to go to a 3/4 speed auto trans.


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## PisnNapalm (Aug 28, 2010)

jetstang said:


> Dont' buy it..
> Just post the location and phone number so we can check it out for you.
> 
> All sounds good, if it drives out good, that is better.
> ...


Will it's a bit hard to drive straight right now. The alignment is way off. The front tires are shot. However the suspension and steering are tight and looked good. Nothing looked like it needed replaced.

The first thing I'm going to have done is 4 new tires, the alignment, new power steering hoses and the engine cleaned. We think there is also small oil leak but with all the power steering fluid eveywhere it was difficult to tell where the oil was coming from.

I also want to put a new carb on it too.

Any suggestions for a new carburetor?

Oh... that reminds me... Will this engine run on straight 87 gas? Do I need an octane booster?

Dang... it I just had another question but forgot it....









Anyway... Oh.. No I'm not going to tell you where it is but the phone number is (555) BITE-ME. :lol:

Thanks again for the replies. :cheers


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## twinjracing (Aug 28, 2010)

I keep trying the number but no one there??? i think it is worth the money. I would unclone it take the gto stuf off. I would jump on it myself. The carb I would run an edelbrock 750 electric choke i love them on my street cars. i would use holley and holley based carbs on the drag cars. That what i do.


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## PisnNapalm (Aug 28, 2010)

Thank you twinjracing. I don't know if I can resist the GTO clone direction though. This will probably be as close as I'll ever get to owning the real deal.


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## twinjracing (Aug 28, 2010)

:agree


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## PisnNapalm (Aug 28, 2010)

Is this the right one?

#9913 Edelbrock Reconditioned #1411 Performer Series Carburetor 750 cfm, Electric Choke

Will I need a stud kit?


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## twinjracing (Aug 28, 2010)

Yes that is right. It is a remancarb but thats all i have ever had the price is beter. You will need the adapter from a spread bore to square bore if you are have a using stock intake. use the four hole one not open or you will have dead spot. The studs come with that. The number 2696 

:cool


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## Too Many Projects (Nov 15, 2008)

I'm not going to say pass on it but if it lived it's whole life in PA, the bubbles are the tip of the ice berg. It IS a very decent looking car now, but when it comes time to do a restroation, don't be surprised at the amount of patching and bondo. The bubbles I see in the pics are the typical rust areas and they could be major. The pic of the inner rocker under the door is an indication of the extent of the issue. The water in the trunk is deffinately coming from the rear window area under the trim. The corners hold water until they rust thru.

If you buy it, I would remove the GTO badges from the front fenders as they are in contrast to the rest of the car. Maybe just drive and enjoy it for a few years and keep looking for a real GTO. Cloning/restoring that car completely will be an expensive endeavor with twice as much invested as resale value when finished. By the time you're done, you could've bought a real GTO.

I understand your position of not being able to afford a real, done, GTO. That's why I started with a basket case. I'm not knocking the car but it is a LeMans and always will be on paper and tags and you can get way upside down in a hurry with sinking large amounts of money in it.

Good luck with whatever you decide...:cheers


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## PisnNapalm (Aug 28, 2010)

WOOHOO!!arty:

Its officially mine! Its at the garage, but... Its mine.


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## 68greengoat (Sep 15, 2005)

:cheers







arty:


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## twinjracing (Aug 28, 2010)

:agree:agree arty:


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## Eric Animal (Oct 28, 2007)

Congrats!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!:cheers


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## PisnNapalm (Aug 28, 2010)

Thanks guys.

Its home! I'll take better pics tomorrow.


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## Rukee (Feb 8, 2007)

:drool:


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## PisnNapalm (Aug 28, 2010)

Part of the mystery about my car has been solved. I gave it a cleaning and got most of the dirt off the exterior of the car. As I was looking at it in the bright sunshine I noticed that the color of the front quarter panels didn't quite match the rest of the car.

So... Someone in the car's past put white GTO front quarters on it. The color is close. So close that with all the dirt on it I didn't notice it before. Now though... Oh well. No biggie. I like my mutt.


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## Eric Animal (Oct 28, 2007)

:cheers She's a sweetie!


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## 67lemans (Oct 30, 2009)

You did good. Enjoy!!!


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## jetstang (Nov 5, 2008)

Really nice car, congrats. GTO or Lemans, the parts are the same price, as they are the same car, GTO is just an option, build it as you want it. I think you did damn good. Enjoy!!


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## PisnNapalm (Aug 28, 2010)

Thanks guys.  It runs pretty decent but really needs a new carb. badly.

I've narrowed it down to a couple choices. 

This one was suggested earlier in the thread. #9913 Edelbrock Reconditioned #1411 Performer Series Carburetor 750 cfm, Electric Choke

...and this one. Holley Performance Products 750 CFM Four Barrel Street Carburetor 0-80508S

What are your thoughts on these carburetors? Which one will bolt right on without an adapter? 

I think this is something I can handle myself, but... I'm a tad apprehensive. I don't know how to fine tune it. This isn't like tearing down and refurbing the tiny carb on my lawn tractor.

Thanks in advance for your opinions.


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## PisnNapalm (Aug 28, 2010)

I noticed yesterday that it's not a 2 speed automatic, but rather a 3 speed. The gear indicator on the steering column has P R N D L, so I assumed it was a 2 speed Powerglide. However, when driving it I noticed it shifted twice.

So... How do I go about determining which transmission this is? Is there somewhere on it I can look for a model number?


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## Too Many Projects (Nov 15, 2008)

PisnNapalm said:


> Thanks guys.  It runs pretty decent but really needs a new carb. badly.
> 
> I've narrowed it down to a couple choices.
> 
> ...


Congrats on the acquisition...:cheers
I think a 750 will be too big for a stock engine. In fact I recommend you determine it actually is a 400 and not a 326 before buying a carb. Get the casting numbers off the block, heads and the letter codes from the front. We can determine what it is from them.



PisnNapalm said:


> I noticed yesterday that it's not a 2 speed automatic, but rather a 3 speed. The gear indicator on the steering column has P R N D L, so I assumed it was a 2 speed Powerglide. However, when driving it I noticed it shifted twice.
> 
> So... How do I go about determining which transmission this is? Is there somewhere on it I can look for a model number?


You can determine the trans by the pan. Go to this site Automatic Transmission Identification and scroll down to the pan picture. I'm betting it's a TH 350....


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## PisnNapalm (Aug 28, 2010)

Too Many Projects said:


> Congrats on the acquisition...:cheers
> I think a 750 will be too big for a stock engine. In fact I recommend you determine it actually is a 400 and not a 326 before buying a carb. Get the casting numbers off the block, heads and the letter codes from the front. We can determine what it is from them.
> 
> 
> ...



Thanks for the reply. It is definitely a Pontiac 400 engine. It's been bored to 30 over and has a ram air 3 cam. I had a conversation with the mechanic who did the rebuild on it last year. The previous owner ran out of funds before getting a new carb on it.

Thank you for that website! That's exactly what I need. :cheers


EDIT:: Also while researching carbs I checked the Q-jet specs and it's rated for 750 to 800 cfm. http://www.carburetor.ca/carbs/tech/Rochester/Quadrajet-index.html


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## Too Many Projects (Nov 15, 2008)

Sounds like the 750 should work for you. I have been converted to an Edelbrock fan from Holleys. The Edelbrocks are less finicky and don't require constant tuning for weather, nor do they have a power valve to rupture. I have an Edelbrock on a sbc and really like it.

If the engine is from a GTO, it MAY have a TH400 behind it....:cool


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## twinjracing (Aug 28, 2010)

:agree


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## PisnNapalm (Aug 28, 2010)

Too Many Projects said:


> If the engine is from a GTO, it MAY have a TH400 behind it....:cool


Ding ding ding! We have a winner!arty:

The pan on the transmission looks identical to #4 on the pan identification picture. It's a TH400.


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## PisnNapalm (Aug 28, 2010)

Well, its back in the garage. I took it out this afternoon to run a couple errands and enjoy this fine warm day. 

I was sitting at a light when it started blowing smoke from the passenger side pipe and began making a loud metallic noise. Luckily I wasn't far from the garage.

They think it may have broken a valve spring. I hope the valves aren't damaged.

This has turned into a ****ty day. I had our cat put down this morning. She was 18+ years old and had cancer. Then I try to cheer myself up with a nice ride in the "Mutt" but...

oh well... I'm just waiting for bad thing #3 to drop on me.


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## twinjracing (Aug 28, 2010)

At least you have the car and winter is comming quick so you will have plenty of time to fix it


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## PisnNapalm (Aug 28, 2010)

I plan on having it to drive sooner than that. It broke down near the garage where I take my cars for work. I'm hoping they can have it done in a day or two.


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## twinjracing (Aug 28, 2010)

That is alays good to


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## PisnNapalm (Aug 28, 2010)

The shop called. It has a broken rocker arm stud. Should be a very easy fix and may get it back tomorrow.


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## Too Many Projects (Nov 15, 2008)

PisnNapalm said:


> The shop called. It has a broken rocker arm stud. Should be a very easy fix and may get it back tomorrow.


If it's running stock arms with the ram air 3 cam, they may not have enough slot and are hitting the stud, causing it to snap off. Have them pull a couple more arms and inspect the studs for damage.....:willy: It may have been a freak weak stud, but better to look now and be certain.


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## PisnNapalm (Aug 28, 2010)

I'd think that the guy who did the engine rebuild and is an engine guru according to the previous owner would know this.... I'll mention it though. I'll call them first thing in the morning.

Thanks for the heads up.


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## Too Many Projects (Nov 15, 2008)

I just brought it up because broken studs isn't common. There's usually an extenuating circumstance that caused it.


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## PisnNapalm (Aug 28, 2010)

Too Many Projects said:


> I just brought it up because broken studs isn't common. There's usually an extenuating circumstance that caused it.


I'll talk to them this morning. Thank you for the advice.


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## PisnNapalm (Aug 28, 2010)

Well, time for an update I guess.

The part that broke was a rocker arm bolt. They managed to find a replacement nearby and were able to get the broken piece out.

After driving it yesterday I noticed I had a leak coming from the power steering pump. The fluid was low so I topped it off with Lucas Power Steering Stop Leak. For now it's really slowed the leak.

I managed to remove all of the farking cheap ass window tint. What a pain in the ass that was but totally worth it! I can see! I still have a little more adhesive to remove from the bottom of the rear window along the edge. My back couldn't handle any more contortion today. I'll finish it on the weekend.

I still can't decide which carb. A friend of a friend is a real gear head and I'm gonna meet with him soon to talk about carbs and have him look over the engine for me.

Lastly.... I love this car. I have a smile on my face the entire time I drive it.


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## nedorama (Sep 13, 2010)

PisnNapalm said:


> Will it's a bit hard to drive straight right now. The alignment is way off. The front tires are shot. However the suspension and steering are tight and looked good. Nothing looked like it needed replaced.
> 
> The first thing I'm going to have done is 4 new tires, the alignment, new power steering hoses and the engine cleaned. We think there is also small oil leak but with all the power steering fluid eveywhere it was difficult to tell where the oil was coming from.
> 
> ...


Reminds me of the same things I did when I got my LeMans - the wobbly dented old rims, out of alignment, boat-like steering...ahh, the good old days.

Talk to the mechanic on the octane to see if he rebuilt the engine compression ratio for lower octane - he'll know.

Good luck and take it slow and enjoy the car - congrats!


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## PisnNapalm (Aug 28, 2010)

Here's a couple pictures I took earlier today.



















I stopped in at the local auto parts store to pick up a few things. As I'm checking out one of the guys behind the counter started a short conversation with me. I'm paraphrasing of course but it went something like this.

Him:: Is that your Le Mans out there?
Me:: Yes.
Him:: That's the one from up 724 at the trailer park right?
Me:: Yes.
Him:: How can you leave it outside like that?
Me:: Huh..?:confused

Me:: Oh.. I bought it from him last week.
Him:: I didn't know it was for sale or I would have looked at it myself. How did you get it?
Me:: I stopped by and asked if it was for sale. 
Him:: How much did you pay if you don't mind me asking?
Me:: Five thousand.
Him:: Damn! You got a steal. That's amazing. Does it have the 326 in it?
Me:: Nope, it has a bored out 400. 

At this point I was done paying and he had another customer. 

I love this car... arty:


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## PyrateDave (Aug 6, 2010)

PisnNapalm said:


> Lastly.... I love this car. I have a smile on my face the entire time I drive it.


That's money well spent. :cheers


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## PisnNapalm (Aug 28, 2010)

My PHS packet arrived today. This car started its "life" with the 230 six cylinder engine and a 2 speed Powerglide.


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## PisnNapalm (Aug 28, 2010)

I have successfully changed out one of the door locks. I'll take my small victories where I can. :rofl:

Now to do the other one.


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## PisnNapalm (Aug 28, 2010)

Well... I can now use a key to unlock the doors as well as use that same key to start the car. Wonders never cease. :lol:


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## twinjracing (Aug 28, 2010)

Keep going one project at a time. Great progress


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## nas (Dec 26, 2008)

Something you may want to consider is adding new springs to change the cars profile. The set I ordered and installed were from a '67 Tempest station wagon, just $95/set. I can show before/after pictures, it has made a world of difference in the stance of the car. 
Looks like you made a good buy on this one.


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## PisnNapalm (Aug 28, 2010)

nas said:


> Something you may want to consider is adding new springs to change the cars profile. The set I ordered and installed were from a '67 Tempest station wagon, just $95/set. I can show before/after pictures, it has made a world of difference in the stance of the car.
> Looks like you made a good buy on this one.


I am considering new suspension parts. The car currently tilts a bit toward the drivers side.

I'd like to see the pictures. I do want to eventually give it a bit of rake.


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## nas (Dec 26, 2008)

Ok, let me figure out the picture uploading thing and I'll post them somewhere. I'm clueless on this.


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## Mike_V (Mar 10, 2006)

5,000 D A M N nice deal


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## PisnNapalm (Aug 28, 2010)

Thanks! I think I did alright. :cheers


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## nas (Dec 26, 2008)

Sorry PisnNapalm, apparently my pix are too big to upload.


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## PisnNapalm (Aug 28, 2010)

nas.... check your private messages.


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## PisnNapalm (Aug 28, 2010)

Figured I'd update this thread with things I've done since the last post in here.

New fuel pump and bent a new line to the carb.
new rocker arm studs and Comp Cams Magnum roller tip rockers.
a few bits for the interior and huge thank you to ERIC for the visor supports.

Next things to tackle are:

carb rebuild
new valve covers


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## Eric Animal (Oct 28, 2007)

:cheers you're welcome. E


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