# Converting hidden headlights to electric



## 69Goatee (Aug 14, 2009)

I figured out how, just need the parts. Take Firebird or T/A headlight motors and module and modify the motors to attach to GTO headlight doors. The module is the key, it senses the load on the motor and stops it when the load increases, doors shut or open. It only has three inputs, power, ground, and headlight on/off input. It has four outputs, two wires to each motor that it switches back and forth between power and ground to change the motors direction. The motors have a built in slipper clutch the protect the gears inside the unit, it also has a manual control to open or close the doors if the motor or module goes out. My engine in my 69 Goat has a cam too big to run the vacuum actuators, and I didn't want to run a pump and extra can. I think this setup will be lighter and take less room behind the bumper. Added bonus, no special headlight switch, or miles of vacuum line, and they will work when the engine is not running! I will be doing this conversion in the next few months, and will post the results.


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## 69-JUDGE (Jun 27, 2009)

69Goatee said:


> I figured out how, just need the parts. Take Firebird or T/A headlight motors and module and modify the motors to attach to GTO headlight doors. The module is the key, it senses the load on the motor and stops it when the load increases, doors shut or open. It only has three inputs, power, ground, and headlight on/off input. It has four outputs, two wires to each motor that it switches back and forth between power and ground to change the motors direction. The motors have a built in slipper clutch the protect the gears inside the unit, it also has a manual control to open or close the doors if the motor or module goes out. My engine in my 69 Goat has a cam too big to run the vacuum actuators, and I didn't want to run a pump and extra can. I think this setup will be lighter and take less room behind the bumper. Added bonus, no special headlight switch, or miles of vacuum line, and they will work when the engine is not running! I will be doing this conversion in the next few months, and will post the results.


Some one posted this type of project on google video under "GTO hidden headlights", which shows them working on a 68 GTO. I have the hidden head light option on my 69, which have been nothing but a pain, and I have been thinking about changing them to the non hidden headlight system. Your idea sounds like a better option though. I think others will be interested in your project, I know I am. Good luck with it and please keep us posted. :cheers


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## Silver69GTO (May 25, 2009)

I would be interested also.
Mine work well now ('69 GTO) but converting them would be better.
I have a stroker engine planned for the car so the vacuum actuated setup may not work right after the stroker is installed.
Keep us posted.


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## tyscru (Sep 29, 2009)

*Headlight Door Operation*

I have a 69 GTO and the headlight doors are not operating again. I replaced the actuators, all the gromets and pieces and vacuum lines. The headlight switch then had to be replaced because it wouldn't work. Everything then worked fine. The car set for a while and I went to get the car inspected and the doors don't work again. I would like to convert them to electric motors and found they have kits for 68 and 69 camaro headlight doors. Has anyone tried using one of these kits on a GTO?


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## kcquaders (Oct 7, 2009)

*Update*

Have you done this yet? Please tell me exactly what you did or are doing. I would like to do this. I have to buy new accuators and canister, so it should be a wash cost wise.


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## 69Goatee (Aug 14, 2009)

This project got put on the back burner for a while, but it is allmost done. I now have all of the parts, motors, module and wiring harness to make it work. I have figured out how to make the motors work in both directions and stop when the headlight doors are fully open or closed, and it will work just like the vacuum system, open and close with the headlight switch, no other switch needed!! I just need to finish making the mounting brackets for the motor. If all goes well, I should have the right side working this weekend. I will post more details after I get the one side working.


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## ALKYGTO (Mar 29, 2010)

Yeah, I'd be interested to see the wiring for that. I converted mine years ago with motors off of a Chrysler Lebaron but I ran a separate switch, similar to a power window switch.


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## 69Goatee (Aug 14, 2009)

I ran into a few problems with the motor install. The motors need to have a positive stop for the module to sense and then shut off power to them. Well, the motors have so much torque that they are moving the rod and brace too much and will ruin the bushing and/or rod and brace in stort order and then the motor shaft will turn all the way around and ruin the factory pieces. So the solution is: I am going to weld on some adjustable stops to the brace that I already made to mount the motors. These should stop the motor shaft before it puts any stress on the other parts. More details to follow.


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## tyscru (Sep 29, 2009)

I converted mine using motors from a 96ish Mazta Miata. The motor has built in sensors so it rotates 180 degrees when activated and 180 degrees when deactivated. Mine have been working great so far. Attached are instructions and pictures.


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## tyscru (Sep 29, 2009)

Instructions got lost so here they are.

I finally completed converting the hidden headlight doors from vacuum to electric. The materials I used was Right and Left 95ish Mazda Miata headlight motors, two sets of lawn mower steering ball joints (798-00327 OEM-723-0448A) from tractor supply, a piece of 7/16” fine threaded all thread, a 5 pin SPDP relay and connector, 1/8” x 4” metal strip and an assortment of colored wires, bolts and nuts. 
I got the headlight motors from a wrecking yard for $25.00 each which was quite reasonable. When I got the motors I cut the wired beyond the connectors so if I need to change a motor in the future all I will need to do is unplug the connector.
To build the brackets I cut four pieces of material 5” long and two pieces 1 ¼” x 2” long. Use the vacuum actuator brackets to transfer the holes into two of the 5” plates. Second locate and weld the 1 ¼” x 2” plates on the side of these 5” plates where the vertical braces supporting the headlight door arms attach and drill bolt holes. The vacuum actuator brackets were used for this as well. Next clamp the remaining 5” plates together and using an electric headlight motor estimate where the shaft needs to penetrate the plate. Drill a 1” hole through the two plates. Now position the motor with the shaft through the plates and mark where the guide pin on the motors hit on the plates. Drill a 9/32” hole for the pin. Reposition the motor in the hole and position the guide pin in the hole. Clamp the motor to the plate and use the bolt holes as guides to drill the attachment holes. After drilling clamp the motor mounting plate to the attachment plate with a piece of angle holding the plates at 90 degrees. The guide pin hole should be away from the bumper. Weld the plates together. For extra stiffness cut a 45 degree wedge from the back motor mounting plate and weld it as a gusset on the back of the bracket to help hold the mounting plate. Round and de-burr all corners and edges.
The stroke of the Miata headlight motors is longer than the headlight door arm stroke so they will need to be adjusted. Remove the arms from the motor, grind the riveted side of the actuator pins and knock them out of the arms. Next the arms will need to be modified to connect the ball joints approximately 1” from the axis of the shaft. To accomplish this clamp the arm in a vice at one of the original bends. Use a dull chisel hammer the arm at the second bend until the first bend is at 90 degrees. Turn the arm around and repeat so the arm is effectively shorter. Drill a 3/8” hole 1” from the center of the shaft hole. After re-bending the arm is still too long to clear the mounting plate so it is necessary to cut approximately 1/4” off the arm. The motors can now be attached to the mounting brackets. The motors bolt to the opposite side of the GTO as they were on the Miata. Now bolt the brackets into the car. Wire the motors using the attached wiring diagram. Energize the motors and allow them to rotate to the closed position. Using pieces of the 7/16” all thread approximately 1 ¼” long assembly a ball joint on each end of the rod. With the plastic connector removed from the Headlight door arm bolt one of the ball joints into the hole using flat washers to insure they don’t pull into the hole. Bolt the second joint to the motor arm. Position the arm onto the shaft of the motor forming a straight line from the shaft to the ball joint connected to the door arm adjusting the joints as needed. Cycle the headlights and make final adjustments as necessary.


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## 69Goatee (Aug 14, 2009)

Sweet setup! I wish I knew that before I spent the money and time on my setup. If I can't get mine to work right, I will try your way. But, I think I have the motor install figured out. I guess the differences between our setups is yours is easier to install and cheaper if someone get get the same deal on motors, but mine is all Pontiac and self adjusting.


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## 69Goatee (Aug 14, 2009)

Finally, after a year of collecting parts, planning, and a few months of fab work, they work!! I met most of my goals for this project, which are #1 convert to electric with full automatic control from the headlight switch, #2 self adjusting, set it and forget it, #3 use factory mounting holes in the bumper, #4 create more room in front of the radiator for A/C coil, oil/trans cooler, electric fans, intercooler ect... #5 use all Pontiac parts, #6 not modify any factory GTO parts. 

#6 is the only goal I couldn't keep. I had to shorten the original pivot rod that attaches to the headlight doors. I ended up making a mounting plate that mounts in the same location as the rod brace that puts the new motors right next to the bumper mounting brackets where the hole is for the rod. I am also going to have to cut a little out of the top of the core support for the top of the motor to stick through, the part that allows manual control of the motor in case of module/relay/motor failure. I got rid of the electric motor connecting rod and connected the shortened factory rod to the motor pivot. Now the doors move together up and down at the same time quickly, and once they are closed they will not droop! I will post some pictures and video soon. Now spring needs to hurry up and get here so I can start putting the car together again.


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