# high temp engine paint-67 GTO



## Cudaboy_71 (Jun 10, 2017)

Ordered the Eastwood 51630ZP for a correct color match for my '67 GTO. Just got parts and block back from paint and it's silver :crying:

Already have a call in to Eastwood and they're going to pull some from the same lot, spray a test, and get back to me. Having the stock oil pan which still shows remnants of the original factory paint really stresses the difference. But, even googling 67 GTO engine pulls up images of a paint thats definitely blue.

That doesn't help me though, unless they find a bad batch and can send me the correct color. Not holding my breath.

So, what is everyone else using? I can just go down to the paint store and have them mix me some paint by the factory numbers. But, they say It's only good to 185°F. They can NOT do custom colors of the high-temp stuff.

So, what are you guys having success with?


----------



## Goat Roper (Oct 28, 2014)

You have a nice base coat on it now so you just need this for the correct color.
This is what I used, metallic blue is the factory color for 1967.

https://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/shw-de1616


----------



## GTOJUNIOR (Aug 7, 2011)

Pontiac Metallic Blue has been getting worst each year.
The last batch of DC I used was very light as well, especially when compared to Factory original parts.
Shown here is an OE oil pan with the original deep blue Metallic Vs the last pc I shot with the 1616, 
had more "Blue" tint then what your block is showing but still getting far to light. 
















I don't think we'll ever see anything in a bomb get back to oe and we will have to go to a match, mix and shoot


----------



## Cudaboy_71 (Jun 10, 2017)

looks like the duplicolor will be better than the eastwood. Still, I'm not opposed to color matching...I have the equipment to shoot paint. 

Any of you have better experience with a pint/quart that will come out closer to vintage? Apart from the color, what I'm really after is durability. My paint shop said they can color match no problem. But, it's only good to 185°F. The ceramic of the eastwood and/or duplicolor looks like it will last a lot better. So, what I'm after is a durable, ceramic paint that will look closest to vintage.

If not, the 1616 looks better than what I have. How many cans to do the block/heads/oilpan/valleypan/intake?

Block/heads/oilpan will be shot all at once. I'll shoot the valley pan and intake off of the car, if that matters.


----------



## GTOJUNIOR (Aug 7, 2011)

I've not used the BH paint but many have and indicated good results;
ENGINE ENAMEL-hirschauto.com


----------



## Cudaboy_71 (Jun 10, 2017)

I like the look of the hirschauto stuff. but, I may grab a can of duplicolor and test it on the valley pan after i scuff it with a quick sand blast. worst case I have to sand blast that back down to metal if it doesnt work or look right.

best case, I like the look and the paint sticks to the silver base coat ceramic enamel I already put down.

So....how many cans should I order to do the whole engine? two coats usually good or does it take 3? Never used rattle can on an engine before.


----------



## Cudaboy_71 (Jun 10, 2017)

..double post


----------



## KowalskiCW (Jul 11, 2016)

I too used the DE1616 from Duplicolor and think it turned out great with the right silver/blue but I'm no perfectionist I just love that color. I use Dupicolor engine enamel on just about everything I paint.


----------



## Goat Roper (Oct 28, 2014)

Cudaboy_71 said:


> I like the look of the hirschauto stuff. but, I may grab a can of duplicolor and test it on the valley pan after i scuff it with a quick sand blast. worst case I have to sand blast that back down to metal if it doesnt work or look right.
> 
> best case, I like the look and the paint sticks to the silver base coat ceramic enamel I already put down.
> 
> So....how many cans should I order to do the whole engine? two coats usually good or does it take 3? Never used rattle can on an engine before.


Do not sand blast your valley pan, you don't want any particles in the clamshell that can end up in your engine.
Use a Scotchbrite pad instead.
Wipe down with lacquer thinner before spraying.
One can will almost do everything but you will need two.
Shake well the metallic particles have a tendency to clog the tip.
I had one can I had to depressurize and pour into my cup gun.
here is a pic of the color.


----------



## Cudaboy_71 (Jun 10, 2017)

Goat Roper said:


> Do not sand blast your valley pan, you don't want any particles in the clamshell that can end up in your engine.
> Use a Scotchbrite pad instead.


oops. too late. i did soak it and blow it out real well afterward though. hope I got everything :surprise:




> One can will almost do everything but you will need two.


no way I got even close to a single coat with one can for an entire engine. Even with the silver basecoat of the Eastwood stuff, I went through 6.5 cans to hit the block, heads, valley pan, intake, water spout, timing cover, water pump, front pulley, and oil pan.
[/quote]



> Shake well the metallic particles have a tendency to clog the tip.


I noticed. Since I had multiple cans, I got where I was shooting for 30 seconds then swapping clogged tips with one that was soaking in acetone. that seemed to give me splatter-free spray.



> I had one can I had to depressurize and pour into my cup gun.


I was about to do that with every can I had :|


> here is a pic of the color.


Nice. I'm happy with how mine is looking now. Still not quite the original blue. But, better than before.


----------



## GTOJUNIOR (Aug 7, 2011)

Yikes, I just noticed your Timing/Water pump case/cover hose inlet.
I highly recommend getting a replacement and avoid the foreseen headache in waiting.
JMC
Cheers


----------



## chadd925 (Jun 5, 2016)

I ordered the DE1616 through O'Reileys , just finished and it took about 4 cans in the end.


----------



## john23 (Mar 6, 2016)

i cannnot help you with a particular paint no., but i have painted a lot of engines, and, with the exception of the exhaust manifolds and near the exhaust ports on the heads, normal paint, properly applied over a good primer, which in itself has been properly applied, will withstand engine temp. there is no need for high temp paint on things like intake manifolds (except where the exhaust crossover contacts the head), blocks, oil pans, valve covers, timing covers, etc... ...good luck


----------



## Cudaboy_71 (Jun 10, 2017)

Thanks everyone. I ended up going through nearly 6 cans of DE1616. But, I had to put down two coats to cover the silver base coat. I also sprayed the oil pan. That may explain why it took more. 

It came out pretty well. Fingers crossed it holds up. 

Now I just gotta wait 2 weeks for my bro in law to get a chance to swing by and help put it back in. Too much other stuff to work on to sit around idle. But, I only have so much room to work in.


----------

