# Just bought a 64 need opinions



## rustygoat64 (May 8, 2014)

*rustygoat64's restoration thread*

Just bought this 64 with about 130,000 miles on it. I don't want to make this a show car, kind of wanting to paint it black and add black carpet and some other interior parts from year one. Not really looking to use only original parts. I know this pictures don't show much but I am just wondering what I am getting into. A guy quoted me 4500-9500 to sandblast everything and replace some pf the panels but I am kind of wanting to get it painted and bondoed so it looks good and runs. He mentioned some overheating and when I bought it the vacuum hose going under the carb ( yellow arrow ) he had disconnected and I don't know if it is to combat the heating issue or what. When the hose was off smoke was creeping out of the small air filters but stopped as soon as I connected it. Like I said I don't want to spend a fortune on it but I don't know if that's the only thing that can be done. 

IMG_0391 by trueblu2317, on Flickr
IMG_0392 by trueblu2317, on Flickr
IMG_0396 by trueblu2317, on Flickr
IMG_0393 by trueblu2317, on Flickr
IMG_0386 by trueblu2317, on Flickr
IMG_0406 by trueblu2317, on Flickr
IMG_0402 by trueblu2317, on Flickr
IMG_0416 by trueblu2317, on Flickr
IMG_0397 by trueblu2317, on Flickr
IMG_0400 by trueblu2317, on Flickr


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## rustygoat64 (May 8, 2014)

IMG_0414 by trueblu2317, on Flickr
IMG_0385 by trueblu2317, on Flickr
IMG_0390 by trueblu2317, on Flickr
IMG_0408 by trueblu2317, on Flickr


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## rickm (Feb 8, 2012)

that car deserves the utmost respect n TLC . if I just bought it, id be pulling the motor n dropping it off at the body shop painting it the original color.


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## 05GTO (Oct 6, 2004)

rickm said:


> that car deserves the utmost respect n TLC . if I just bought it, id be pulling the motor n dropping it off at the body shop painting it the original color.


:agree

If it were mine and the dates, numbers and PHS match, I would do a complete frame off nut and bolt restoration, my goal would be to restore her back to the original show room condition.

Just my humble opinion,


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## Instg8ter (Sep 28, 2010)

Welcome to the forum. Looks like a pretty solid foundation, original paint and a four speed console to boot. With your first quote you have got a good idea what your in for, 5000.00 spread, meaning when he gets into it he would expect to (and probably will) find more under the surface. From what the pictures show you will need some new channels welded in around the rear wind screen. Top of the passengers side quarter may need a patch where the duct tape is. hopefully the rockers and lower quarters and fenders are just surface rust, but patches can be fabbed easy enough for those and welded in. Legendary makes the best repop seat covers, expect to be into the interior for a few grand with someone installing it. 

It's possible to do a nice job with the body left on, but the frame will be harder to blast and paint. I would start by power washing/steam cleaning it. It looks like it was undercoated so you may find that you can spot touch-up any areas of bare metal rust with epoxy paint after sandblast to seal it and apply undercoating where they missed from the dealership. Mine looked similar to yours and i found that most of what looked like rust was red clay dust from sitting for 30 years in a carport in Idaho. The way I look at it, if it has protected your frame from rust for 50 years why spend all the time and energy to scrape it off so you can eat off your frame?

You will want to make the suspension and brakes safe before hitting the road. Now for the single most expensive part...body and paint. Not unheard of to get bids in the 8-15,000 range for good body and paint, especially Black as it shows any imperfections in the body work. If you have access to the tools , plenty of time and some shop space you can do it yourself for a couple thousand. I did mine after seeing what others were bid and hearing the horror stories of cars lost in limbo at the body shop. All in all if you can do most of the work yourself your looking at 20K+ to restore one to good driver condition, add another 30-50% if you have to pay someone to do the work. They aren't cheap but they are a hell of a lot of fun.


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## Nightshade 68 HO (Mar 11, 2014)

Man you are miles ahead of me having a complete running car. You won't have to spend big bucks finding correct parts. I would plan to do a mechanical overhaul/check before I delve into body and paint so you can enjoy it a little and see exactly what needs fixing. You can start purchasing any panels needed or order up that interior kit while you do this. Once it is apart, you may find yourself in a full blown frame off....for example, you pull the fenders and expose the cowl, hmmm maybe they are rotted out, pull up the carpet, hmm maybe those floor pans are too soft etc. 

I am just adding to the advice given above. I have learned a lot buy watching the Paintucation videos and Craig Hopkins videos to the point I did my own sandblasting and frame/suspension rebuild and I learned to weld. Restoring a car is a marathon and not a sprint, hence I always have one car to drive for fun and one car to restore....

Anthony

Welcome to the forum! I dig 64s and I would repaint it factory color :thumbsup:


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## rustygoat64 (May 8, 2014)

Thanks for all the input. The previous owner had it for 21 years and only put 8000 miles on it and it runs pretty strong right now. Just had the brakes done so driving wise it is good. I wondered about having to match interior with the black maybe it is a better idea to just keep the original color. We will see what happens when I start getting in to it, I will keep everyone posted.


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## rustygoat64 (May 8, 2014)

Everything matches I have the original documents and about 1/2" thick of other documentation. I did notice the front passenger panel sticks out a little and the paint is slightly different on the doors than rest of the body so it has been painted but still the original saddle bronze. It was probably in a minor accident but I'm not sure. I will have to sort through all the papers to see if anything is in there.


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## Matt66 (May 8, 2014)

Just my opinion but I would leave it just how it is ( stop the rust ) . I love seeing an old car with all of its old stories still intact. The only reason I primered mine white is because it was primer grey. I understand this is hard to do, it is the all mighty '64. A full restore would be nice, in the original color. Haven't seen many that color.


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## FNG69 (Nov 15, 2009)

rustygoat64 see that's not what I see. I can see what will she become after you save her. You need to change your name already. Looks like a great start. All there and the 1st year of the GTO to boot. You do need to restore her back to the original!!!!!!!!! Those spinner wheel covers are one of the best looking wheel covers ever made!!!!!!


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## rustygoat64 (May 8, 2014)

Ya the spinners are nice, I do like the cragar's though. I am wondering, I just saw something stating that the 64's had the side mirror on the fender not by the window..?


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## 1968 GTO Resto-Mod (Nov 27, 2012)

wow!
great looking GTO!
from what i've read here, this car seems to be a very good candidate for a full original restoration.
however, i encourage you to take the time to do some research and then do what *you* want to do with it.
thanks for sharing, and... welcome to the forum!
danny


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## 05GTO (Oct 6, 2004)

rustygoat64 said:


> I just saw something stating that the 64's had the side mirror on the fender not by the window..?


In 64 the remote controlled mirror was mounted on the fender to allow better routing for the cable. The standard mirror was a dealer installed option and could have been mounted on the door or fender depending on the dealer. Either location may be correct.


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## chuckha62 (Apr 5, 2010)

I'm in the "restore to original" camp. If it weren't so complete and had already been bastardized, I'd say paint it black, change the upholstery and make it whatever you want it to be. Seeing as it is so original, I'd hate to see it changed away from what it is.


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## geeteeohguy (Feb 2, 2008)

X5 on either leaving it alone, or going all original. Too scarce of a car to hack up or change over, IMO. Personally, if it were mine, I would: fix the rust issues around the windows and match the existing paint there, and drive the car. As is. Just clean it up and drive it. You'll get more attention than if it were restored or sprayed black or red. Trust me.


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## rustygoat64 (May 8, 2014)

Well guys it was dropped off this morning at the body shop. It isn't going to get a off the frame, but it will have all of the body work repaired and it's going to get painted. Not sure about what color yet (probably original) we are going to get it sandblasted and panel replacement done right now. Then worry about interior and motor after this is all done. Who knows what he will find when he starts going through it. This is a father & sons project so it should be a lot of fun restoring this old car. I am planning on taking some pictures of the process so this will kind of be a project thread now. Stay tuned.


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## rustygoat64 (May 8, 2014)

IMG_0419 by trueblu2317, on Flickr
IMG_0426 by trueblu2317, on Flickr
IMG_0427 by trueblu2317, on Flickr
IMG_0430 by trueblu2317, on Flickr
IMG_0429 by trueblu2317, on Flickr
IMG_0420 by trueblu2317, on Flickr
Untitled2 by trueblu2317, on Flickr
IMG_0424 by trueblu2317, on Flickr

I am still wondering why the vacuum hose going into the bottom center part of the carburetor was disconnected when I bought it. Anyone? maybe he forgot to put it back on, I don't know.


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## 05GTO (Oct 6, 2004)

Does the hose connect to the PCV valve or the distributor vacuum advance? BTW, the 5N on the data plate also confirms the car had the GTO option.


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## rustygoat64 (May 8, 2014)

The hose I put back on went to the pcv valve. They had the carburetor suction line blocked off, so we took a hose and connected it back to the pcv valve which eliminated the blow by coming out of the valve cover caps.


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## rustygoat64 (May 8, 2014)

So the body shop guy is ready to sandblast and was saying he needed some panels trying to decide between summit or original parts. Is there a difference quality wise? We decided we are gonna keep it the original color.


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## 1968 GTO Resto-Mod (Nov 27, 2012)

rustygoat64 said:


> We decided we are gonna keep it the original color.


good decision!

:thumbsup:


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## RT-1 (Mar 21, 2012)

I want to re-emphasize a point that was briefly touched on above and makes a HUGE difference. Your paint guy likely will want to clean up and Bondo the rear glass recess. This will not work. The chrome clips rely on good metal to attach. Bondo will not work. You need new metal back there. I've been there done that- got lied to by my body guy and had to completely redo it to get it right.


Sent from AutoGuide.com App


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## geeteeohguy (Feb 2, 2008)

Yea, no way to install trim anchor pins into plastic filler. Need to be welded onto new metal. A good body guy can easily weld repair sections in place, though. Very common repair.


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## rustygoat64 (May 8, 2014)

Ok thanks guys, I don't know what he was planning on doing but I will fill him in on what needs to be done. Ordered body panels and inner wheel panels for both sides of the rear he said anything else he could do himself. Got him some black magic sand for the blasting so he will be starting that soon. Still have to order a set of redline tires here sometime soon probably a little bigger for the rear than regular sizing up front.


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## Instg8ter (Sep 28, 2010)

Just a word of caution about sandblasting long flat body panels, they warp easily. I speak from experience as my daughters boyfriend did "just the inner frame rails!!!" on my hood, he thought he was doing me a favor by also doing a great job on the back side of the skin in all the recesses...GRRRRRR!!! 2 weeks to get it where i felt it was smooth enough for paint, after a few heat cycles over the motor the waves started coming back, lucky i was planning on getting a GTO hood anyways.


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## 666bbl (Apr 13, 2014)

Dammit, I'm late to this adventure you're sharing. Did you order 1/4 panels? I sure hope not!! There's only 1 place that stamps out new 1/4s and it's in the Asian continent. They're nearly .015 too thin, they all have some surface distress above the wheel openings, dings and dents galore from shipping. I did a 65 and vowed to NEVER EVER AGAIN use that trash. Now before anyone jumps in with the "GM aproved" banter, save it. Almost 1/2 gal of filler to get the ones I used straight and pretty. They 1st ordered from Year One at a shipped cost of $670. I sent them back because they were so bad. A local warehouse near me sells to all of the suppliers so I got 2 for $325, but the best part was they ordered in a total of 5 so we could pick the best ones. The Mopar stuff is as bad or worse too. "So then what are we to do?" is probably floating around in your head right now, and what I'd do is place an order with one of those western sheet metal salvage guys that travel around. You might wait 3-6 weeks but it will be salvaged OEM metal, the right thickness and heavy enough to maintain a good surface after being installed. I hope your shop knows to only remove and replace 1 at a time too. Tear down goes fast and easy and the tempatation to keep going can cost thousands in realignment of the body once it droops from both 1/4s being gone. There's so much more but I'll stop there for now. 

The fun stuff? That car rocks man! Kool fluggin color, 4spd, the right engine dress, I mean yowzaa! Exponentially badass. I freakin hate you, but in a very nice way


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## rustygoat64 (May 8, 2014)

The panels came from Summit but he is going to cut out what he needs he isn't going to use them entirely. The whole interior is out now to make sure the floor is solid, it had a small spot needed for repair. It is going to get blasted here soon it will be going to another place for that this week so stay tuned.


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## 666bbl (Apr 13, 2014)

Summit, Year One, NPD, all the same part. Good luck with this thing, it's pretty damn kool...


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## allpawl66 (May 9, 2008)

05GTO said:


> In 64 the remote controlled mirror was mounted on the fender to allow better routing for the cable. The standard mirror was a dealer installed option and could have been mounted on the door or fender depending on the dealer. Either location may be correct.


In 64 mirror was an option as were seat belts , first option door mounted non remote , 2nd. was fender mount remote control joystick would be mounted on bottom of the dash to the right of the ebrake handle . Have NOS if inter. as well as other 64 parts if needed .


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## rustygoat64 (May 8, 2014)

Well it it was blasted yesterday here are a few pictures. It definitely has had some work done to it, the body guy said it has some lead work on it also. It was blasted with a fine silica sand, looks pretty good. 

Untitled1 by trueblu2317, on Flickr
Untitled 3 by trueblu2317, on Flickr
Untitled4 by trueblu2317, on Flickr
Untitled2 by trueblu2317, on Flickr


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## geeteeohguy (Feb 2, 2008)

That looks very good.....much better than I would have thought. That is going to be a very nice, not-often-seen GTO when you are done with it. Congrats on your decision to keep it original colors, etc. Looking very good indeed!


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## 666bbl (Apr 13, 2014)

I don't want to end up the forum's most hated, but the fastest way to remove the stresses that keep those flat surfaces tight and pretty? Blast em with silica. I just spent over 30 hrs trying to flatten and reshape some simpler and indeed heavier doors from 30s car that was sand blasted. It's not as much heat that warps the panel, it's that it gets a peened by the sand. I've met 2 guys in 40yrs who can blast sheet metal without warping it. At today's cost of doing things, sure to go up as time goes on, it pays to take every precaution possible to minimize the investment. Soda, plastic media, fairly safe when done by a competent operator. The safest? The hard way, chemical stripping with paint remover. I want you to have the best work possible on such a kool and rare colored goat, but if need be I can simply muzzle my opinions from this point on and hope for the best. Am I worth a bent dick at what I do? You tell me...:


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## 666bbl (Apr 13, 2014)

Some simply repeat the BS they've heard over the years, some of us are all in, not everyone who's all in will express their experiences and recommendations. I will, or won't if you (and anyone else) prefer. No offense intended, see your retailer for details, void where prohibited, taxes and title extra...


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## rustygoat64 (May 8, 2014)

Thanks for the input, I saw the some people using soda on youtube. I will have to look a little more into it. Here are some more pictures of it after it was done being blasted. Ya I am really liking the saddle bronze color more and more, really don't see it too often.


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## rustygoat64 (May 8, 2014)

Whats up guys, figured I would make a post. It has been a slow process but I am looking forward to getting it done and driving it. The rear has had the quarters and wheel housings put on each side and a bunch of bondo work. Still needs some work to the trunk lid/inner trunk. She's a driver so not anything too extensive for now. Got all the interior pieces and getting the seats done now. Decided to go with the all black interior with grey recessed star headliner. Still going with the saddle bronze on the exterior. Pictures on the way


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## FNG69 (Nov 15, 2009)

You are moving right along. I'm working on a 64 wagon now myself. Cause love those 64's all of them. Haven't started a thread on it yet. But will show you what my floor pans look like just so you know how lucky you are. Have most the ole driver side out already. And the new floors ordered from Ames. Keep up the good job!! Les


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## rustygoat64 (May 8, 2014)

That was one of the things that has come up, I know the frame is rusted of course but whether it is surface rust or not I don't know. I mean it is from the rust belt so.. But I figure later down the line if the frame needs replaced/blasted would it need floor pans to be done or not I don't know, and if so would it be possible to do without damage existing paint. I found out that it can get quite messy doing on the frame with the leftover sand/bondo and what not haha.


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## rustygoat64 (May 8, 2014)

Untitled5 by trueblu2317, on Flickr

Untitled4 by trueblu2317, on Flickr

Untitled1 by trueblu2317, on Flickr

Untitled2 by trueblu2317, on Flickr

Untitled3 by trueblu2317, on Flickr


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