# need help taking brakes off



## 740tank (Mar 23, 2009)

I have an 04 gto trying to replace a wheel lug how do I get to the back to change it out I already took the brakes off and tried hitting the back of the rotor with a 2lbs hammer while I rotated it and I got nothing


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## 740tank (Mar 23, 2009)

nevermind I got it just needed to do it harder lol


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## Rukee (Feb 8, 2007)

Bfh.


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## Poncho Dan (Jun 30, 2009)

You need one of these. All break rotors will bow down to your absolute power.


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## jpalamar (Jul 22, 2008)

First time I took mine off it was a PITA. Lots of PB blaster and then ended up getting a big ass rubber mallet from Home Depot. Once I finally got them off. I used a wire brush to clean up al lthe rust on the hub, back of wheel, and rotor. Hit it with some brake cleaner to wipe it all down and used anti-seize. Now they pop off so easy. Just be sure to grease the back of the pads or you may squeal.

FYI, my DBA rotors actually have threaded spots on the rotor hat to help pop it off. It works really good. I don't know the size or threading of it off hand though.


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## Rukee (Feb 8, 2007)

Poncho Dan said:


> You need one of these. All break rotors will bow down to your absolute power.


I've never used a three jaw puller for rotors. Just a B F H (not a rubber hammer). And I never hit the braking surface with the hammer unless the rotor is clearly junk. Instead I wail on the hub section between the lug nut. That will usually 'pop' it right off. It takes a steady hand though to swing a large hammer and not hit the wheel studs!


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## jpalamar (Jul 22, 2008)

Rukee said:


> I've never used a three jaw puller for rotors. Just a B F H (not a rubber hammer). And I never hit the braking surface with the hammer unless the rotor is clearly junk. Instead I wail on the hub section between the lug nut. That will usually 'pop' it right off. It takes a steady hand though to swing a large hammer and not hit the wheel studs!


I think I have a slightly warped rotor from hitting the crap out of it. I have a break squeek that won't go away and only happens when the wheel hits the same position. I'm assuming a high spot on the rotor. I didn't know you could hit the hub without messing up the wheel bearing and all.


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## Rukee (Feb 8, 2007)

I've owned a repair shop for 19+ years and never seen a wheel bearing go bad from removing a rotor. Some stubbern ones I've even used heat and an air hammer on.
On your squeek, look for that ridge of rust that sometimes forms at the outside and inside edge of the braking surface. Sometimes just knocking that off or worse case senero have then remachined can make the noise go away.


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## Poncho Dan (Jun 30, 2009)

I'm sure the puller will warp the crap out of them, but usually (in my situation) if a rotor is coming off, it's just plain being replaced, not refaced.

I also use a little 1-2" cutoff piece of 1/8" steel plate as a solid, even surface for the puller point if one is not available.


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## GM4life (Mar 18, 2007)

jpalamar said:


> First time I took mine off it was a PITA. Lots of PB blaster and then ended up getting a big ass rubber mallet from Home Depot. Once I finally got them off. I *used a wire brush to clean up al lthe rust on the hub, back of wheel, and rotor. Hit it with some brake cleaner to wipe it all down and used anti-seize. Now they pop off so easy.* Just be sure to grease the back of the pads or you may squeal.
> 
> .


Same exact thing I did except I soaked it in WD-40 and my Craftsmans rubber mallet and everything else you said. Great minds think alike


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