# HELP! - got a quote from a machine shop



## Pontiacpurebrred (Jun 22, 2011)

So I was referred to a machine shop by a "GULP - COUGH - SPIT" Chevy guy that's a buddy of mine. 

I was quoted $1200-$1500 for block and head work + $225 for balancing. 

Seems way eek:WAY) high to me. 

Also can someone point me to an engine rebuild kit that includes forged rods but not a new crank?

Any recommendations on a kit and internal parts appreciated. (I last used TRW forged internals - but have heard less than stellar things about them recently)

THANKS!!!!


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## Eric Animal (Oct 28, 2007)

1st) Find a Pontiac guy. Mr. Peabody comes to mind as he is a member here. In all fairness, check Butler performance in Tenn. also. 2nd) be prepared to spend good money for good machine work! Eric:cheers


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## BearGFR (Aug 25, 2008)

Depends on what you're having done. I had my block bored and torque plate honed, squared, align honed, new cam bearings (test fit with a cam to make sure they didn't bind), core plugs, throroughly cleaned - heads pressure tested, flow tested, valve job and generally "cleaned up" at a race engine shop and probably spent close to that.

*IF* (and it's a big one) they know what they're doing with Pontiacs and do it all right, and take the time it needs, it doesn't sound too far out of the ball park in my opinion.

That's the reason that really high quality paint/body work is so expensive: you're basically paying them to "care" enough about your car to take the time and put in the effort to do it right - so they don't have to depend on doing a lot of cars in a short period of time to be able to make money.

For a rotating assembly, the difference between a complete kit with a crank as opposed to piecemeal - the cost difference isn't going to be a whole lot - especially for a good cast crank. There are many opinions, but most I've seen say that a good cast crank is fine to at least 550 HP, some say as high as 650 HP plus. There's an advantage to getting a complete assembly as a kit because it can be balanced that way. That's what I did. I got my machine work done locally (Kim Barr Racing Engines in Garland, TX) but got all the "guts" from Jim at CVMS. He checked it all over, added some more dish to the pistons, balanced it, and it all showed up here ready to drop in.

My "guts" are an Eagle cast crank, Eagle forged H-Beam rods w/ARP fasteners, KB/ICON forged pistons w/floating pins, (well, you can see all the details on my motor in the 1:1 Club roster over on the Pontiac Street Performance web site here).


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## Pontiacpurebrred (Jun 22, 2011)

Well I actually got a referral today from the guy I bought all those parts from, he has a 69 GTO as well and he's done a lot of work with ...

Mann Speed Specialty
9514 Truman Road
Independence, MO 64052

The patriarch of the family is an old Pontiac racer and they specialize in Pontiac parts and engine work. 

I had a chat with them today on my lunch break. After lengthy discussion about my assumptions about the condition of the motor and what I want out of it they said I'd be at $1050 (low end) to $1500 (high end) and that includes new stainless valves and comp springs and a full set of new guides in the head job. (Oh that also includes installing the freeze plugs and cam bearings and balancing the rotating assembly.) SO much lower than 12-1500 for just the machine work. Plus they work with Eagle so they can procure my forged rods, hopefully at a lower cost than I can get on my own. 

So at the moment I am thinking I'll be going with Mann Speed. But I am always open to suggestions.

Thanks for the replies Eric & Bear!


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## Eric Animal (Oct 28, 2007)

Always a pleasure.


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## onetwomany (Apr 22, 2011)

Good advice Eric and Bear. I had my engine done by a very reputable Pontiac builder. He found things that were overlooked by other so called experts.When it comes down to machining block and heads and doing a proper assembly dont look for places to save a few bucks.Good luck with your build and keep us posted with your results.:cheers


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