# Newbie looking for 69 GTO Purchase Advice



## ljsflash (Nov 30, 2012)

I've been a lurker here for a long time and looking for a project. I think the best place to ask is here because I trust enthusiasts over local shops. I found 1969 GTO convertible, matching numbers that has been under a tarp since 1989. The original engine has been rebuilt, the auto trans was rebuilt in '88. 

Both rear quarters need to be replaced do to damage and bondo. The drivers door skin needs to be replaced. The under-side rockers etc. are in great shape. The front of the car however was taken off and leaned on a fence. Bottom of the front fenders, radiator support and front of the hood are prob shot. Also the trunk bed needs to be replaced but the floor pans seem okay.

This will be my first project in 20 years. I plan on subbing out most of the body work but would like to do some myself. I used to be an experienced arc, gas, and mig welder but that was while working my way through college 20 years ago.

The price is right (I think). He's asking 5k but motivated to move it. Any input or opinions will be appreciated!


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## MO Goat (Apr 7, 2011)

Sounds like a good find and a good price! Especially if he takes an offer AND with a rebuilt engine. I'd snatch it up if I were you.

I'm tracking dollar for dollar on what it's costing me to restore my '68 GTO so if you want some information on what to expect, feel free to PM me. However, I have no bodywork skills so I have to pay someone to do the bodywork and it sounds like this one is in better shape than mine was so your cost should be lower.

Welcome and congrats on the find! :cheers


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## ljsflash (Nov 30, 2012)

MO Goat said:


> Sounds like a good find and a good price! Especially if he takes an offer AND with a rebuilt engine. I'd snatch it up if I were you.
> 
> I'm tracking dollar for dollar on what it's costing me to restore my '68 GTO so if you want some information on what to expect, feel free to PM me. However, I have no bodywork skills so I have to pay someone to do the bodywork and it sounds like this one is in better shape than mine was so your cost should be lower.
> 
> Welcome and congrats on the find! :cheers



Thanks Mo!

Any info or insight as to the cost of doing this will be greatly appreciated. I've been looking at replacement part cost (fenders etc) on OPGI. I would like some feedback on which parts places/catalogs are best.


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## mrvandermey (Jun 15, 2011)

ljsflash said:


> Thanks Mo!
> 
> Any info or insight as to the cost of doing this will be greatly appreciated. I've been looking at replacement part cost (fenders etc) on OPGI. I would like some feedback on which parts places/catalogs are best.


I too am building a 1968 GTO convertible, and mine was in close to same condition as the one you are looking at (plus or minus the rust). Like other guys here, I can tell you to the dollar how much I have spent on my build up. Yes, places like OPGI, Year One, Ames, Performance Years and etc, are great resources for parts. However, I have found that in most (not all) cases, you can score better deals on original parts, especially on things like hoods, fenders, doors, and trunk lids. One trick I found to help with the costs, is when I find a deal on a part that I do not specifically need, I buy it either as a spare or to resell to help offset costs. For example I picked up two spare front valances for less than $100 each and resold them for $150 and $200. I have done that on several parts. I also like bundle deals from folks parting out their cars.


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## jmt455 (Mar 26, 2012)

Make sure it's a real GTO VIN before you commit. Get the PHS documentation to confirm it's real, and to confirm the original options and colors.

It that's a REAL air conditioned GTO convertible, you are probably safe to pay near the asking price, but it's going to cost a lot to finish that car. Be prepared....the more you can do yourself, the better. Make sure you get every possible part from the seller, too.

I don't think there are aftermarket convertible quarters available, so you'll need to repair those or replace them with re-worked coupe quarters or used parts. 

Don't buy aftermarket front fender(s) unless you have absolutely no other option; they don't fit well and require a ton of fitment work (this according to AMES and Performance Years).

Get the PHS docs; you might find it was a Ram Air or other "rare" car and it will be worth a small fortune when it's done....

They painted the engine the "wrong" color; 66 to 70 should be the light metallic blue color. And that looks (to me) like an Edelbrock Torker manifold; might not be very street-friendly. Get as much information as possible about the engine "rebuild". Was the block zero-decked? Valve reliefs on the pistons? If so, what volume are the valve reliefs? What cam/lifters/rockers/springs were installed? What volume are the combustion chambers?
I'm going through all of that with my engine now, and in some ways I wish it had not been re-built, so I would know what exactly was in it and that it was being built for the way I intend to use it.

It looks like a GREAT starting point for a nice car; just keep your eyes wide open.


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## MO Goat (Apr 7, 2011)

jmt455 said:


> Make sure it's a real GTO VIN before you commit. Get the PHS documentation to confirm it's real, and to confirm the original options and colors.
> 
> It that's a REAL air conditioned GTO convertible, you are probably safe to pay near the asking price, but it's going to cost a lot to finish that car. Be prepared....the more you can do yourself, the better. Make sure you get every possible part from the seller, too.
> 
> ...


+1!

I've found Craigslist (use Searchtempest.com for the nationwide listings) is a great place to find parts along with Frank's Pontiac Parts in CA, Minnesota Muscle and fellow GTO Forum members. I've also found many contacts through just talking with people. Everyone seems to know someone that knows someone that has an elusive part. Through my research, I located a guy in Omaha that has a barn stock piled with parts...and GTO's. Part of the fun is making the connections and tracking down the parts.

I agree, try and find OEM fenders (Craigslist, cars in a field, behind a barn, etc.) As far as the quarters, I bought mine from Dyancorn and they fit great! If you can track one down, I work with a parts shop here that places bulk orders and I save a ton in shipping costs! 

I'd be happy to tell you what I'm paying, but it sounds like we're on two different paths since you can work a MIG and I can work a checkbook! :lol:

Better snatch that Goat up!


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## ljsflash (Nov 30, 2012)

mrvandermey said:


> I too am building a 1968 GTO convertible, and mine was in close to same condition as the one you are looking at (plus or minus the rust). Like other guys here, I can tell you to the dollar how much I have spent on my build up. Yes, places like OPGI, Year One, Ames, Performance Years and etc, are great resources for parts. However, I have found that in most (not all) cases, you can score better deals on original parts, especially on things like hoods, fenders, doors, and trunk lids. One trick I found to help with the costs, is when I find a deal on a part that I do not specifically need, I buy it either as a spare or to resell to help offset costs. For example I picked up two spare front valances for less than $100 each and resold them for $150 and $200. I have done that on several parts. I also like bundle deals from folks parting out their cars.


Thanks MRV! I appreciate the tips. I will look for original parts. I seem to be obsessed with looking already and I haven't even picked up the car yet. I'm picking it up this week. Got it for $4250. Hopefully it's a good enough price where I wont get burned. Excited and a little scared. Is that normal? :cheers


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## ljsflash (Nov 30, 2012)

jmt455 said:


> Make sure it's a real GTO VIN before you commit. Get the PHS documentation to confirm it's real, and to confirm the original options and colors.
> 
> It that's a REAL air conditioned GTO convertible, you are probably safe to pay near the asking price, but it's going to cost a lot to finish that car. Be prepared....the more you can do yourself, the better. Make sure you get every possible part from the seller, too.
> 
> ...


I do know it's a matching numbers car as far as the engine and VIN but not sure about much else. I trust the guy I bought it from but who knows if it could have been cloned before his childhood friend (2nd owner) bought it.
I contacted PHS but they seem to do things the old fashion way (snail mail).
Included with the car is many redundant parts. The original intake manifold as well as two others, exhaust man. plus two sets of headers (one set new) etc. 
As far as the rebuilt engine goes, I have a lot to investigate. I do have the number of the machinist and mechanic. I've never heard the term zero-decked but I'll look into it.


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## ljsflash (Nov 30, 2012)

This is more info than anyone but me is probably interested in but: Just got off the phone with PHS. This is a factory air GTO convertible. Other options:
Paladium silver, black top, blk seats, 400/350 hp YS engine, turbo hyd trans, AM radio, hideaway headlights, remote mirrors, Ralley Two wheels, G78 14 redline tires, console,clock, power steering, power disk brakes, tinted glass- all windows, reclining pass seat, A/C, front floor mats, delivered to Doug Wylie Pontiac, Birmingham, Al. Built June, 1969.


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## ljsflash (Nov 30, 2012)

I believe this is the original intake, can anyone confirm?.


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## porkandbeans (Jul 24, 2012)

Heeey! Congrats! 
Kinda like bringing a newborn home. You've got a lot of work ahead of you, but rewarding work. Everyone has great advice for you. Of the popular sources for new parts, OPGI is my favorite.


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## jmt455 (Mar 26, 2012)

I can't read the part number and casting date codes, but here's what you should see:

Part #: 9794234
Casting date: This should pre-date your vehicle build date if it's original to your car.
This is a four digit cade. First digit is a letter (A=January, B=February, etc)
Next 2 digits are the day of the month, 1-31.
Final digit is the last digit of the year. 0=1960, 1970, 1980, 1=61, 71 or 81, etc.

Depending on which assembly plant built your car, the engine date codes could be anywhere from a couple of days (Pontiac Assembly) to a few months (Fremont).

Here are a few helpful sites:
Wallace Racing; block/head/manifold ID and combination calculators, lots more 
Wallace Racing-Drag Racing Pontiac powered Firebirds,Trans Ams and Dragsters

Pontiac Street Performance; lots of very knowledgeable forum members
Pontiac Street Performance

Performance Years Forums; probably the most active and widely used Pontiac tech forums. Sponsored by Performance Years.
PY Online Forums

Ultimate GTO; TONS of reference images and color/code details:
Pontiac GTO - The Ultimate Pontiac GTO Picture Site

Congratulations on your purchase!
That car is very well equipped and is going to be a joy to restore and drive.
Awesome colors, too.


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