# rear window rot



## Logchain (Nov 29, 2011)

Hey guys need your help and advice again. I have a serious issue with rear window rot on my car and need some advice on the best way to fix it. I know a donor car would be the best option but there are absolutley none in my area at a reasonable price considering this is all I would need off the donor. Would a roof skin be my best bet for the upper window rot, and just fab up the sail panel peices?
Just looking for any tips and advice you can give me.
Thanks again for all the help


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## 67/04gto (Jan 15, 2005)

the roof skin does go down the sail panels.your best bet is to prob find a donor car or fab some pieces out of sheet metal,chevelle,olds,buick, a bodys for the same year 66-67 should have the same sail panels

here is a sample of the roof skin
https://secure.amesperf.com/qilan/Detail_Web?part_num=H100A&order_number=2849819&web_access=Y


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## BearGFR (Aug 25, 2008)

A lot depends on your skill level with fabricating and welding sheet metal. It's hard to tell from the photos but it looks like you might be able to get by with just a narrow strip of metal around the perimeter of the window opening. You won't know for sure until you cut all the bad stuff out though, frequently the back side is worse and you have to cut farther in order to "get it all". If the damage extends far enough to include the sharp ridge/bend along the top of the roof, then that's a whole 'nuther level of difficulty, fabrication-wise and you'd probably be better off replacing the whole roof because it's going to be really tough to repair and get that edge perfectly straight. If you're lucky and it doesn't go that far, then the reveal moulding is going to cover up most of the repair in that area anyway so it won't be so critical. Likewise on the sail panel.

Don't be scared to try. I learned on the Beast that there's very little you can screw up to the point where you can't back off, start over, and try again. It'd be a good idea to make a cardboard template that follows exactly the curve and shape of the window opening before you start cutting, so you'll have a pattern to refer to in order to make sure you get the contour correct.

Bear


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## Logchain (Nov 29, 2011)

Thanks for the replies. I think I'm going to get the roof skin and use the metal for the upper window rot, if it is worse up above then I will try and cut about 4 inches back on the skin and my roof and replace the lip area. I tried to fab up the bottom sail piece. Turned out alright just a hard place to get into to cut and grind. Luckily I will be able to hide the weld seams behind the reveals. Guess I will continue to try and fab up small 4-6 inch pieces all the way up the edge till I get to the top.


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## Logchain (Nov 29, 2011)

Another quick question, whats the best way to make sure the window molding clip screws are set int he correct position? Do they make an alignment tool/jig I could buy?


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## BearGFR (Aug 25, 2008)

On my 69 the molding clips are held to the body by top-hat shaped studs that are welded on. I don't know if it was the same with 67's. The problem with using screws to mount the clips is that you're creating a hole through the metal there in an area that's guaranteed to see a lot of water if the car is ever out in the rain, so it's a great way for water to leak inside the panel and start rusting it from the back side, or to start rusting at the screw holes themselve where the sheet metal screws bite into the metal. As far as the location of whatever you use to mount the clips, it's not critical where they go. As long as they're close to the correct distance "down" from the edge of the opening, where they're located side-to-side can vary by a lot and not make any difference. Usually they're installed all around the opening "about" every 4 inches or so, but that part's not critical. Generally, you want them so that with the clips installed, the tops of the clips are all even with each other and also don't portrude above the edge of the body line.

When I did mine, I used one of these guns. I had to modify the end of it slightly in order to be able to position the stud far enough "down" on the side of the opening. I just cut a section out of the side of the big ring on the end of it that serves as the electical ground connection during operation, making it a C shape instead of a circular O shape.
Stud Welder Dent Repair Kit

I used a tip like this one:
Motor Guard Stud Welder Trim Rivet Tip 31041B

And rivets like these:
Motor Guard J-20012 Stud Welder Trim Rivets - Bag 500

Bear


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## Logchain (Nov 29, 2011)

I like your idea, I ask becasue I picked some of these up.
64 65 66 67 68 70 GTO MOULDING CLIP SCREWS-STUDS-30 PCS | eBay
They are supposted to seat the stud at the correst depth. I was gonna screw them into the metal pieces I am going to fab up and then weld them from the back side to prevent the rusting issues you mentioned. I am more worried about getting the proper distance from the down edge like you mention. I take it the clips are all the same distance down around the entire window are so if I make some kind of template for the correct distance I should be fine?


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## BearGFR (Aug 25, 2008)

Logchain said:


> I like your idea, I ask becasue I picked some of these up.
> 64 65 66 67 68 70 GTO MOULDING CLIP SCREWS-STUDS-30 PCS | eBay
> They are supposted to seat the stud at the correst depth. I was gonna screw them into the metal pieces I am going to fab up and then weld them from the back side to prevent the rusting issues you mentioned. I am more worried about getting the proper distance from the down edge like you mention. I take it the clips are all the same distance down around the entire window are so if I make some kind of template for the correct distance I should be fine?


Yes you could, although I'm not sure I'd go to that much trouble The clips do have some freedom of movement up and down, both on the stud and in the way they hold the moulding. When I put mine on, I used an adjustable length Combination Square set so that when the edge of the square was on the window opening lip the end of the blade was at the depth I wanted, then I put a pencil mark at that point and eyeballed it from there.



Bear


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## Logchain (Nov 29, 2011)

Bear
Thats a great Idea thanks for sharing. I Appreciate all the help man, this area was giving me a headache but with your advice its gonna be much easier. I will use the combo square to get the correct depth. Will be awhile before I get back home to work on the car but will try and post of pics of my progress.
Thanks again


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## chuckha62 (Apr 5, 2010)

On Ebay right now is a guy selling a frame. In one of the pictures, there is a complete top off of a post car. The top and sail panels look to be in very good condition. The parts are in Ohio, so I don't know if this would be convenient for you or not... The Ebay Item number for the frame is 280796878670. Who knows, the top may be for sale in another auction, it's worth asking...

Just a thought,

Chuck


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