# Beautiful 1971 GTO. Need help with some history!



## Jward430 (Jul 21, 2014)

Hello everyone.
I am new to the GTO world. I am proud to say I own a 1971 GTO 455. I bought the car claimed as a matching numbers car. So far everything is correct. I am tho curious where to find the motor stamp to verify the 455. 

Little about this car from the information I have researched. 
1971 GTO
455 with AC
Only upgrades is exhaust.
Car shows 89,000 miles

Auto transmission
62-62 paint code- Canyon Copper Metallic
Production date: 4th week of Dec. 1971
Built in Fremont CA.
Interior code- 263-Saddle

I am the 4th owner of this car. A gentle man from North Dakota had bought it from a gentleman in Arizona and this car has been parked inside under wrap for years. The shop he was renting in his town wouldn't allow him to re-new the contract because they wanted to build a gas station on the corner lot. So he had to sell some of his collection. This car was auctioned at a car auction and ended up in my garage in Sask. Canada. I have never seen a car so clean underneath and have zero rust at all! I replaced a few gaskets as they were dried out, timed and cleaned the carb. This car starts and runs great. I love it. 

I am curious what you guys think of this find. I am new to GTO's but they have always been on my dream list.


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## Roger that (Feb 6, 2010)

The 71 came with 2 455 options. An HO (high output) and a non HO. The HO code with an Auto trans (found on the front of the block on the passenger's side under the head) is YE. The non HO Auto trans code is YC. These codes could also be used on other engine displacements so you would need to look for another code in the rear of the engine on the passengers side below the head. The YC 455 code is 485428. The YE 455 code is 483677, my book says that code came on Judge's only. If you really do have matching numbers, the VIN number should be on the front of the block, passenger's side near the timing chain cover in a very fine font running vertically.


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## Jward430 (Jul 21, 2014)

Roger that said:


> The 71 came with 2 455 options. An HO (high output) and a non HO. The HO code with an Auto trans (found on the front of the block on the passenger's side under the head) is YE. The non HO Auto trans code is YC. These codes could also be used on other engine displacements so you would need to look for another code in the rear of the engine on the passengers side below the head. The YC 455 code is 485428. The YE 455 code is 483677, my book says that code came on Judge's only. If you really do have matching numbers, the VIN number should be on the front of the block, passenger's side near the timing chain cover in a very fine font running vertically.


Thanks for the quick reply! From the info I was given on the car its a suppose to be a original 455 non HO. Ill take a look tonight at the spots you mentioned to look at post my findings.


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## BearGFR (Aug 25, 2008)

Gorgeous car!

Bear


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## Rukee (Feb 8, 2007)

BearGFR said:


> Gorgeous car!
> 
> Bear


:agree
Welcome to the forums! :cheers


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## Jward430 (Jul 21, 2014)

Hey guys quick question. First day driving was last night I have a slight lifter/valve tick. I pulled the covers off and no visual damage. Some guys mentioned I should try using marvel majiv mystery oil or XM5. Than change my oil with royal purple. If noise continues to than look deeper into pushrod, rockers etc. Curious on your guys thoughts? 
It's not a loud loud ticking honestly it sounds like the classic ford Tryton motor tick but a shade quiter. It bugs me and It needs to be corrected. 
I have ruled out a leaky manifold, faulty fuel pump, made sure rockers weren't hitting the covers etc. 
This is a bone stock 455. Thanks guys.


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## BearGFR (Aug 25, 2008)

Make sure you use an oil with high ZDDP content. ZDDP has been "disappearing" from oil since roller lifters became the norm in new cars. 

Bear


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## PontiacJim (Dec 29, 2012)

Keep in mind, 89,000 miles can be a lot of miles on that era car/engine. Might be time for new lifters. If original, I would definitely install a new timing chain and gears at that mileage, so if you do that, not much extra work to install new cam and lifters at the same time to freshen it up. Assuming it is not using any oil and needs an overhaul.

They make an engine/automotive stethoscope that may help you pinpoint the "tick". They sell for about $20.00. Could be a good tool for you to isolate the "tick" or tell you what it isn't -for piece of mind.


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## Jward430 (Jul 21, 2014)

PontiacJim said:


> Keep in mind, 89,000 miles can be a lot of miles on that era car/engine. Might be time for new lifters. If original, I would definitely install a new timing chain and gears at that mileage, so if you do that, not much extra work to install new cam and lifters at the same time to freshen it up. Assuming it is not using any oil and needs an overhaul.
> 
> They make an engine/automotive stethoscope that may help you pinpoint the "tick". They sell for about $20.00. Could be a good tool for you to isolate the "tick" or tell you what it isn't -for piece of mind.


I changed the oil today and put in some Royal Purple and it did quite down some, but I can still hear it especially after the motor is warm. I used a long screw driver this evening and it sounds a bit different and louder near the rear of the driver sides valve cover. I took the valve covers off last night but visually couldn't see any damage. Ill take them off tomorrow again and run the motor. (not sure why I didnt do that last night) Like PontiacJim mentioned it's probably about time for a refresh. I'd like to keep this motor stockish. I have a few questions for you guys.
What would you guys recommend for parts brand etc?
I looked a little online at parts but this will be my first time with valvetrain. Does anyone reputable put together a kit? (Cam,lifters,pushrods,valves, gaskets etc) 
Input on a good set of gears and timing chain?


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## silversport (Mar 23, 2007)

nice car...thanks for sharing...

Bill


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## 666bbl (Apr 13, 2014)

89K miles from that era can indeed be a lot, but for some reason Pontiac engines seem to wear it quite well. When switching to synthetics on original engines with normal wear it's usually best to go up in viscosity. Instead of 10W40 it would be better with 10W50 since synthetics will almost always flow the same in cool weather or warm (although I suspect you wouldn't drive in sub-zero Canadian air!). Another consideration is how long it just sat around vs regular use. Any hydraulic lifter engine can take quite a while to "shut up" if it's been recently put to use. Something in my memory banks says to look toward the distributor for the noise. Don't ask me what or why, just something I seem to recall from back then. Nice car, congrats on the score.


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