# Remote Oil Filter



## PontiacJim (Dec 29, 2012)

The question has come up on remote oil filters.

I my self wanted to use a remote setup. It was not really for any of the often stated benefits, but rather, the look I was after. In doing my build, I am not using the heater or fan and want a smooth firewall look. To that, I want a more competitive street racer/drag car look and to me the remote oil filter on the firewall is that look.

If you do a web seach on what is best and which brand, etc., like all things you will get 100 different opinions and some will scare the heck out of you and you won't even consider them. Which type - dual filter or single? Tall or short filters? What size lines - 8 AN, 10 AN, or ? How long should the line be? How about attachment elbows - curved or 90 degree? Oil pressure - some say you will lose oil pressure and others won't. Oil drain-back, some say yes, some say no, and some say you'll start your engine dry with no oil.
Where to locate it - below the oil pan oil level, above the engine, on the firewall, on the fender well, ?????

_Here is what I have just ordered for my build from Nitemare Performance_ - right or wrong. I wanted a complete kit that was a tried and proven set-up rather than cobble something together using individual pieces/parts and hope I got it right. I had a few questions which were answered promptly. I also have to trust in the person who uses and sells these or I will be second guessing myself forever and worry every time I fire up the engine and "notice" something suspicious that just doesn't look 100% right all the time.

Complete Pro Series Remote Oil Filter Setup


*PJ to Darrin Magro email*: 

"I have never used a remote, and what I have researched on the internet has simply confused me more. Lot of opinions and I'm sure many haven't a clue what they are talking about, so excuse my ignorance.. So a couple of questions to sort through the internet BS/Myth's.

#1 . Biggest thing I read is the term "oil drain back." With the remote filter mounted on the firewall, when the engine is shut down, the oil can drain back down the lines leaving the lines dry and when the engine is fired up, bearings don't get any oil until the oil pressure builds up and wear of bearing/mating surfaces are accelerated.

#2 Location of oil filter with regards to the above. Some say it needs to be low on the firewall and mounting it above the engine will only make "oil drain back" worse. With no heater in the way on the firewall, that is about where I would locate the filter. I want people to see it, not bury it low out of obvious sight.

#3 A remote filter can lower oil pressure. I have the 60 PSI pump and I have read I may see an oil pressure drop of a few pounds. (Have a healthy iron head 455 build/TKO-600 5-speed/3.89 geared Ford 9"). Perhaps this is more due to where the mechanical oil pressure gauge reading is taken - engine or remote filter fitting?

#4 Any other considerations or pitfalls I may need to know about?"

*Darrin Magro to PJ email reply*: 

"Most remote filter set ups got a bad rap because they are installed with really long lines with the filter attached to the radiator support and sometimes with twin filters. This set up reflects some of the issues you mentioned with this kind of set up, Ours is designed to be installed high on the fire wall, close to the motor. There is NO drain back of the filter, only of the lines, due to simple gravity. The filtration is superior and the oil runs cooler. An average of 7 HP can be expected over a standard oil housing with a stock filter. Extra clearance for headers is also a big benefit. When you first start the engine when COLD just run for the first 2 seconds at the lowest RPM possible till oil pressure comes up then you good. No issues when hot as the oil pumps quickly. The engine running for 2 seconds with no oil pressure wont do any harm as the bearings hold oil. Use Drivens HR1 Hot Rod oil, conventional based 15-50 #2 106 oil for best results. There is no oil pressure issues at all when driving or under load. We install this on EVERY motor we sell. Its absolutely the best single upgrade you can do to your oil system. Any more question please advise."

So there you have it. I am running Doug's headers so in using this set-up, the benefits are of course the oil filter clearance issues I won't have, no spilling of oil on the headers when it comes to changing filters, plus those outlined by Darrin. :thumbsup:


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## cij911 (Oct 25, 2017)

Thanks PJ!


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## PontiacJim (Dec 29, 2012)

cij911 said:


> Thanks PJ!


Just got my filter kit. Here is what it looks like when you receive it. You have to do some assembly.

Instructions are included. There is one length of braided line. You have to cut it (die grinder & cut-off wheel) and assemble the ends. It is this way for mounting purposes depending on where you locate it. If you are not comfortable doing the cutting/assembly, you could bring the measurements and the parts to a local hydraulics rebuilder/shop. They can do this for you. I have a local shop near my workplace that makes braided steel lines as well as rubber lines.

I don't see any other issues, per say. The bracket to hold the oil filter looks adequate, but I might add/weld a couple steel diamond shaped gussets at the 90 degree bends just to give it a little more "beef" - just because I like to over engineer stuff. LOL I'll have to re-paint, but no big deal. Another alternative would even be to have the bracket made up at your local metal/fab shop using stainless steel. Use the painted bracket as your template and let them duplicate it so it adds a little "shine" to the firewall.

I am probably going to use a finned oil filter cover of sorts to match my finned valve covers. There are different styles available. I don't think I want a full cover, but maybe a partial "vaned" cooling sleeve might look good. Included a picture of one. They are available in colors as well.


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## cij911 (Oct 25, 2017)

Funny that is a pretty basic setup for so much money....I still need to do research on other options (never heard of these guys) and would like to understand why their setup is better than others.


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## curtis.smith68 (May 9, 2018)

I like the look of PJ's parts. I used a Moroso remote bracket and fabricated my own hoses from Fragola fittings and -10AN Summit steel braided hose. The pressure sending unit will be relocated in the future as it looks obnoxious where it is but for the time being it works. I have a 2 QT white Moroso oil filter I'm waiting to put on until after my next oil change. It will look much better with that. My oil pressure had no noticeable drop from what it was prior to going remote and I am running a high pressure pump. I think i typically see 60ish psi at idle but my memory is fuzzy there. I was tired of taking my oil filter off with a screw driver and hammer because of my headers. That was my main reason why I went remote, plus I love the look. Oil changes were never so easy.

Moroso remote oil filter bracket

https://butlerperformance.com/i-24453395-moroso-remote-oil-filter-bracket-mor-23750.html?ref=search:https%3A%2F%2Fbutlerperformance.com%2Fsearch.html%3Fq%3Dremote%2Boil%2Bfilter

Butler performance adapter plate
https://butlerperformance.com/i-24452908-pontiac-bolt-on-remote-oil-filter-bypass-plate-1-2-pipe-bpi-1011.html?ref=search:https%3A%2F%2Fbutlerperformance.com%2Fsearch.html%3Fq%3Dremote%2Boil%2Bfilter








[/url]Untitled by paradox_69_666, on Flickr[/IMG]


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## PontiacJim (Dec 29, 2012)

cij911 said:


> Funny that is a pretty basic setup for so much money....I still need to do research on other options (never heard of these guys) and would like to understand why their setup is better than others.


Yep, I thought the same thing. But, I feel better knowing that all the parts are correct and matching and that the set-up is spec'd and used by a Pontiac engine builder.

There are a number of other manufacturers that offer parts/kits like Summit, Trans-Dapt, Moroso, Hamburger, etc.. Their parts are cast aluminum. These parts are machined billet, so billet is always more - and it is stronger.

I could have pieced it together as I am sure most do. Several of the other Pontiac builders offer the parts, you can easily get the hoses assembled to your specs, and put it together. Some differences in the parts, like O-ring seals versus using the factory type oil filter gasket, braided steel line versus rubber hydraulic hose, and quality ends versus hose nipples and clamps.

As I stated, I have never used one of these, and I found too many posts on other websites that had me concerned. I have too $much in my engine to chance putting together a set-up that saves money only to find out I encountered low or fluctuating oil pressure or wiped out my bearings on a banzai RPM blast.

So I am not endorsing the product, but it is what I am going to use, and feel confident enough based on a shop that has the experience that I don't have in adding the set-up. Your choice may be completely different, far less expensive, and work just as well. But the cost for me was not the objective, peace of mind and an undamaged engine were. :thumbsup:


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## 11th Indian (Feb 15, 2018)

Had this setup for over 10 years on my 70. 
No problems.....


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## geeteeohguy (Feb 2, 2008)

Jim, I ran a single remote filter on my '66 GTO for over 10 years with zero problems. With the headers I was running, it sure made oil changes a snap. With the large Ford type filter and the hoses, it also added to my oil capacity, which I see as a good thing.


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## VASH (11 mo ago)

geeteeohguy said:


> Jim, I ran a single remote filter on my '66 GTO for over 10 years with zero problems. With the headers I was running, it sure made oil changes a snap. With the large Ford type filter and the hoses, it also added to my oil capacity, which I see as a good thing.


Working through relocation right now in my ‘67. Impossible to keep the stock filter setup with my headers. Would love serials on what and where you ran the remote setup.


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## 68 Teapot (Aug 7, 2021)

11th Indian said:


> Had this setup for over 10 years on my 70.
> No problems.....


I use the same set up, dual filters. Get hoses made at O'reilly. Love it, except when changing oil. Mounted high on fender well.


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## PontiacJim (Dec 29, 2012)

Here is a couple pis of the finned oil filter cover. I got the blue anodized one. It is too small to fit on the bigger oil filter - which I was aware of - and I simply cut the flat flange having the 2 allen head bolts you see in the earlier photo. Then I gently by hand opened up the cover by working around it to open it wider rather than just pull it open which will only spread it open at one point rather than all the way around so as to enlarge its size. I opened it up just enough to slide over the filter. Not concerned about the back side as you will only see the front side once it is up on my firewall.

I will use a large stainless type hose clamp at the base of the finned cooler to keep it from slipping down. It is not about function, it was about the look that I wanted so it breaks up the appearance/size of the big oil filter. If it helps cooling, so be it, but I did not get it for that.


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## Baaad65 (Aug 29, 2019)

I looked up this thread because I keep contemplating a remote oil filter or two, maybe it would help engine temp, some more capacity and could look good if done right. So the question is since I don't have room anywhere else except removing the bug juice reservoir and mounting it there is that to long of a run, probably close to four feet ? I'm keeping the heater box and have a heater hose on the wheel well. My other questions are single or dual filters? Advantages and disadvantages? And what about the kits that thread on where the filter spins on instead of the bypass plate, if ok that would be good because my two sending units are in the original filter housing which if not I have another job relocating those. Putting the filters where the reservoir enables me to fit dual filters and even run the tall Moroso ones which would give me about 2 qts more. Would make changing the filter easier, get it away from the exhaust and not too expensive....I know it's not necessary but would make a good winter project.


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## ponchonlefty (8 mo ago)

PontiacJim said:


> Just got my filter kit. Here is what it looks like when you receive it. You have to do some assembly.
> 
> Instructions are included. There is one length of braided line. You have to cut it (die grinder & cut-off wheel) and assemble the ends. It is this way for mounting purposes depending on where you locate it. If you are not comfortable doing the cutting/assembly, you could bring the measurements and the parts to a local hydraulics rebuilder/shop. They can do this for you. I have a local shop near my workplace that makes braided steel lines as well as rubber lines.
> 
> ...


yeah, but over engineering is better than having to do the same job twice.


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## Baaad65 (Aug 29, 2019)

Idk if my post can be seen in this old thread because it doesn't appear as a new post.


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## PontiacJim (Dec 29, 2012)

Baaad65 said:


> Idk if my post can be seen in this old thread because it doesn't appear as a new post.


Ya, we see it. Just waiting on photos of your breathers to get things started, then we may or may not answer you.


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## PontiacJim (Dec 29, 2012)

Baaad65 said:


> Idk if my post can be seen in this old thread because it doesn't appear as a new post.



Personally, I don't like the idea of the long lines. I think you will see a drop in oil pressure and when you fire up the engine, the oil pump has to push oil down the line, through the filter (s) and then to the engine. Just would scare me a bit. I would at a minimum have a kill switch where I could crank the engine over a bit to get oil flowing and then flip the switch to put power to the coil/ignition to fire up the engine.

If me, maybe low behind the engine block on the passenger side frame, but above the headers.

I am not running a heater and my firewall will be "smoothed out", so mine will be right on the firewall behind the engine using short lines.


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## Baaad65 (Aug 29, 2019)

Ya I'm concerned about that too but I have no other place, and I want to tuck the lines up under the fender and come out by the bug juice container so it's turning into almost 72". Headdmen does have those on their site, and they're 1/2" npt so maybe a little small for that run. I do have an 80 psi pump and the filter I'm running now has an anti drain back valve so idk if that would help, also I'm not planning on any 90° fittings. Trans dapt makes a spin on adapter with the inlet/oulet at 90° instead of straight down. What's the opinion of dual tall filters over one filter? I was looking at a Speedmaster filter housing that has ports on either side.


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## Baaad65 (Aug 29, 2019)

Bought the first part for the oil filter relocation project for this winter.


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## Baaad65 (Aug 29, 2019)

Second part of the oil filter relocation arrived today.


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## ponchonlefty (8 mo ago)

anybody seen or used the reusable oil filters? i'm thinking about getting one.if i relocate the filter.


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## Baaad65 (Aug 29, 2019)

More parts delivered today, all that's left are the hoses.


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## Baaad65 (Aug 29, 2019)

The final peices for the filter relocation.


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## PontiacJim (Dec 29, 2012)

Baaad65 said:


> The final peices for the filter relocation.
> View attachment 156164


Let us know if you see any difference in your oil pressure.

I would also suggest adding a "kill switch" to the ignition so you can spin/prime the oiling system a few cranks of the engine before you fire it up. I plan on doing this with my set-up just to make sure I have oil in the lines/oil system prior to the engine firing up - especially if it sits for a bit.


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## Baaad65 (Aug 29, 2019)

I will but I'm keeping this for a winter project so it might be a while, if I don't touch the gas pedal it will crank but not fire so I'll see if that will work. The filters are going where the bug juice tank is now, never have used it and might eliminate the hoses and squirters for a cleaner look.


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## System (7 mo ago)

Baaad65 said:


> The filters are going where the bug juice tank is now, never have used it and might eliminate the hoses and squirters for a cleaner look.


You all don't have annual inspections that check this stuff? In MA they check everything annually and if it was there from the factory, it needs to still work. Wipers, washer fluid, hazards, seat belts etc.


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## Baaad65 (Aug 29, 2019)

System said:


> You all don't have annual inspections that check this stuff? In MA they check everything annually and if it was there from the factory, it needs to still work. Wipers, washer fluid, hazards, seat belts etc.


Inspections, we don't need no stinking Inspections 😎


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## System (7 mo ago)

Jealous!


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## PontiacJim (Dec 29, 2012)

Baaad65 said:


> Inspections, we don't need no stinking Inspections 😎


Same here in NC. After 25 years, no inspections. They figure if the car/truck is still running after 25 years, you must be taking care of it. Also, what do you do if you need a part no longer available - deny your registration? Most will just make sure all your safety items work, wipers, horn, lights, tires, etc.. They are not that nit-pickey. In SC, no emissions testing.


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## System (7 mo ago)

We actually have video cameras in all the inspection bays and those live feed to monitored screens in a state office. So, while every inspection isn’t watched live, you never know if yours is the random one they are watching. Inspection places take no chances here because of this.


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## Baaad65 (Aug 29, 2019)

System said:


> We actually have video cameras in all the inspection bays and those live feed to monitored screens in a state office. So, while every inspection isn’t watched live, you never know if yours is the random one they are watching. Inspection places take no chances here because of this.


Good gravy 🤦‍♂️ we got cars running around here missing their front clip. Who cares if your windshield squirters don't work, sounds like another fee grab.


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## System (7 mo ago)

Yep, it's brutal. We are one step behind CA... 🙄


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## Droach6498 (Nov 1, 2020)

PontiacJim said:


> Personally, I don't like the idea of the long lines. I think you will see a drop in oil pressure and when you fire up the engine, the oil pump has to push oil down the line, through the filter (s) and then to the engine. Just would scare me a bit. I would at a minimum have a kill switch where I could crank the engine over a bit to get oil flowing and then flip the switch to put power to the coil/ignition to fire up the engine.
> 
> If me, maybe low behind the engine block on the passenger side frame, but above the headers.
> 
> I am not running a heater and my firewall will be "smoothed out", so mine will be right on the firewall behind the engine using short lines.


I just read all this as Im thinking of installing a remote o.f. had one on my 67 made everything so much easier I even liked changing the oil, but I've never installed remote o.f.. I have read alot about them and have read not to install one when breaking an engine in which is what Im doing. But did you install it? You have headers I presume, how was the install? Easy? Doesnt say what the fittings are 10an? 8an? Any pics?


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## PontiacJim (Dec 29, 2012)

Droach6498 said:


> I just read all this as Im thinking of installing a remote o.f. had one on my 67 made everything so much easier I even liked changing the oil, but I've never installed remote o.f.. I have read alot about them and have read not to install one when breaking an engine in which is what Im doing. But did you install it? You have headers I presume, how was the install? Easy? Doesnt say what the fittings are 10an? 8an? Any pics?


No, have not built my engine nor installed it. I think *Baaad65* will be installing his this winter and he should help us along with pics. I bought a "kit" which many are and that way you get all the parts/fittings and don't have to guess or mix and match. I have never used one before, so this will be my first installation and use of a remote oil filter. Going for the "race" look and supposed to be a little easier to change the filter when using headers.

I have not read anything about not installing one on a fresh engine. I did find this on a boat forum with regards to a fresh built 350CI Chevy engine and using a remote filter set-up, "You'll need to prime the system if the engine has never been run before - - ever. Generally, You aren't starting "under load". If your boat is like mine, you start it at IDLE and in NEUTRAL... That's really a very "low-stress condition for the engine to run in. Use a timer and check your oil pressure gauge on a cold start. If it takes more than 5 seconds of running time to build pressure, I would be surprised."

The engine may take a few seconds longer to build oil pressure up when you start it. I was told when the engine fires to let it idle, no load, and warm up a little, don't fire the engine up and go wide open right away. I am planning on using a "kill switch" disconnect to the coil so I can crank the engine over for a few seconds to get the oil flowing and prime the engine at low cranking RPM's and then flip the switch and fire the engine up. I could be wrong, but seems like a good idea to do.


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## lust4speed (Jul 5, 2019)

I've got a dual remote filter and large oil cooler on the drag car with fairly long hoses. A couple things help, the hoses are -10AN and the remote filter runs the filters in parallel. There is only about a two second delay until the oil pressure builds and when it does it drops the idle down about 200 RPM. This is pushing 20w50 Valvoline VR1. I don't run the starter to prime the engine and simply let it fire and run, and bearings always look like new when we do a refresh.

I did run a similar system in the blue GTO street car but took it out when I was trying for a pure stock look in the engine compartment. About the third oil change where I had to lift out both filter and filter adapter because of the headers and scattershield I gave up and put the dual remote filter back in place. No cooler on this install because I do too much driving in cool weather. I have the filter assembly mounted on the far passenger side of the radiator support with the hose run hid between inner and outer fenders. Painted everything satin black and it pretty much disappears unless someone is really looking. Only drawback is I have to make up a form fitting catch pan out of aluminum foil to sit on the inner fender when I change out the filters since I always spill some oil when removing the filters.

Don't seem to have a photo of the filters on the blue GTO but do have some of the drag car when we were first putting it together.









Two plate trans oil coolers with the large engine oil cooler in front of them.









Video of the drag car idling with my son-in-law checking for leaks since it hadn't been started in months. No problem with oil pressure despite the complexity.
Drag car idling


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## Baaad65 (Aug 29, 2019)

lust4speed said:


> I've got a dual remote filter and large oil cooler on the drag car with fairly long hoses. A couple things help, the hoses are -10AN and the remote filter runs the filters in parallel. There is only about a two second delay until the oil pressure builds and when it does it drops the idle down about 200 RPM. This is pushing 20w50 Valvoline VR1. I don't run the starter to prime the engine and simply let it fire and run, and bearings always look like new when we do a refresh.
> 
> I did run a similar system in the blue GTO street car but took it out when I was trying for a pure stock look in the engine compartment. About the third oil change where I had to lift out both filter and filter adapter because of the headers and scattershield I gave up and put the dual remote filter back in place. No cooler on this install because I do too much driving in cool weather. I have the filter assembly mounted on the far passenger side of the radiator support with the hose run hid between inner and outer fenders. Painted everything satin black and it pretty much disappears unless someone is really looking. Only drawback is I have to make up a form fitting catch pan out of aluminum foil to sit on the inner fender when I change out the filters since I always spill some oil when removing the filters.
> 
> ...


Sounds nasty, I love it !


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## Baaad65 (Aug 29, 2019)

lust4speed said:


> I've got a dual remote filter and large oil cooler on the drag car with fairly long hoses. A couple things help, the hoses are -10AN and the remote filter runs the filters in parallel. There is only about a two second delay until the oil pressure builds and when it does it drops the idle down about 200 RPM. This is pushing 20w50 Valvoline VR1. I don't run the starter to prime the engine and simply let it fire and run, and bearings always look like new when we do a refresh.
> 
> I did run a similar system in the blue GTO street car but took it out when I was trying for a pure stock look in the engine compartment. About the third oil change where I had to lift out both filter and filter adapter because of the headers and scattershield I gave up and put the dual remote filter back in place. No cooler on this install because I do too much driving in cool weather. I have the filter assembly mounted on the far passenger side of the radiator support with the hose run hid between inner and outer fenders. Painted everything satin black and it pretty much disappears unless someone is really looking. Only drawback is I have to make up a form fitting catch pan out of aluminum foil to sit on the inner fender when I change out the filters since I always spill some oil when removing the filters.
> 
> ...


That's good to hear because I'm going to have 60" of 10AN line each way but running 10w40.


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## geeteeohguy (Feb 2, 2008)

I ran a remote single oil filter on my '66 GTO from 1980-92. It allowed for a Ford style filter and while not fancy, it upped my oil capacity by at least a full quart. My pressure remained the same. The reason I installed it was my headers left no room for the stock filter. It made oil and filter changes a snap. While I am now a more 'stock' type of guy, remote filters, done right, can help out a bit.


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## Baaad65 (Aug 29, 2019)

Ok I have the remote oil filter done, the pressure is about 5lbs less at the filters from the dash gauge which is hooked to the filter housing, the pressure goes up slower than before when revved but not bad. 75 lbs cold then dropped to 25 lbs at 200° @ 800 rpms, oil temp got up to 160°, so I'll see how it does on the road in the spring. I think it came out good and I gained 2 quarts of oil.


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## Baaad65 (Aug 29, 2019)

Baaad65 said:


> Ok I have the remote oil filter done, the pressure is about 5lbs less at the filters from the dash gauge which is hooked to the filter housing, the pressure goes up slower than before when revved but not bad. 75 lbs cold then dropped to 25 lbs at 200° @ 800 rpms, oil temp got up to 160°, so I'll see how it does on the road in the spring. I think it came out good and I gained 2 quarts of oil.
> View attachment 159397
> 
> View attachment 159395
> ...


Hey System thanks for the 👍, long time no hear from..how's the car, get everything worked out?


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## System (7 mo ago)

Thank you for checking sir!

I'm pretty much done with her for the year. I have heat in the attached garage but it's more of a burnout thing that a cold weather issue. This car fights me at every corner. Nothing seems to go right the first time. It's also partially because I did so much at once. The driveline is close though. I still need to dial in timing and carb. That will go on the spring list of things to fight along with the following.

My new power steering pump was defective so I have a replacement from CVF to install in the spring. The current one looses it's prime when the car is shut down overnight and I need to rev for 15 to 20 seconds at startup before the pump pull pressure. I also have a small PS leak somewhere. Could be the pressure hose that was reused. 

I'm not sure if something got plugged back in incorrectly but my wipers no longer work and when I tried the, the wiper motor offered me some smoke with the wipers going in high speed while the switch was on low. All worked well before it went in the shop and the connectors do have the ability to be reversed so IDK what happened while she was out of my control for 2 months.

Trans linkage was reused but less smooth that with the prior M20. Will have to get it in the air and look at that.

The PS exhaust outlet in my Pypes system could not be lined up correctly. I will have to bring it to an exhaust shop as it's now touching the rear valance and is close enough to the frame to create a vibration at idle.

Last project I tackled myself was a complete audio install. Everything went slow but decent until testing. Driver side door speaker sounds like there is grit in it at low volume. Could be manufacturing or could be something got into it while on the floor during install. That's an easy fix as JL will send me a replacement under warranty. The odd one that had me scratching my head all week is my head unit has a pop up screen. On that screen can be displayed a back up camera. I said, what the heck. For $30 I got a chrome one that disappeared under the rear bumper. Well, I've tried two of them and both only work 50% of the time. However, they are also causing an issue with my subwoofer pre-out. When ether camera is plugged into the head, the sub pre-out goes dead on and off at low volume. Such a strange conflict. Could be incompatible camera or could be a head unit issue. I'm too burned out to pull it and send it off for warranty or to experiment with a different camera so I gave up for 2022... Ambition should return in 2023 and the warranty is still good on all when the time comes... 

Dakota Digital gauges are actually the one thing that went well. My wife says it's because that's the one project she helped with...

So, with so many upgrades gone wrong, I've been hesitant to post here... I'll be picture happy one all is right in the spring I'm sure...


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## Baaad65 (Aug 29, 2019)

System said:


> Thank you for checking sir!
> 
> I'm pretty much done with her for the year. I have heat in the attached garage but it's more of a burnout thing that a cold weather issue. This car fights me at every corner. Nothing seems to go right the first time. It's also partially because I did so much at once. The driveline is close though. I still need to dial in timing and carb. That will go on the spring list of things to fight along with the following.
> 
> ...


Wow that is a lot not going smooth, I bet you have burn out. Well take a break like you said and 2023 will be here before you know it...maybe have your wife help with everything 😉


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## System (7 mo ago)

Baaad65 said:


> Wow that is a lot not going smooth, I bet you have burn out. Well take a break like you said and 2023 will be here before you know it...maybe have your wife help with everything 😉



I frequently try to get her to "help" with things. I usually get the answer... "ah...no." LMAO... But here's to wishful thinking... 

Your remote system looks awesome. I'd buy the kit if it were available commercially!


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## Baaad65 (Aug 29, 2019)

System said:


> I frequently try to get her to "help" with things. I usually get the answer... "ah...no." LMAO... But here's to wishful thinking...
> 
> Your remote system looks awesome. I'd buy the kit if it were available commercially!


Commercially? I peiced it together to get what I liked.


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## System (7 mo ago)

Baaad65 said:


> Commercially? I peiced it together to get what I liked.


I meant you assembling a kit and marketing it to Pontiac air cleaner hold down buyers...


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## Baaad65 (Aug 29, 2019)

System said:


> I meant you assembling a kit and marketing it to Pontiac air cleaner hold down buyers...


Summit and eBay are my friend 😉


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## Baaad65 (Aug 29, 2019)

Much better 👍


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## System (7 mo ago)

Sweet!


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