# Looking for best way to setup front alignment



## onetwomany (Apr 22, 2011)

First timer at doing a frame off on my 65 GTO. Front suspension is all new and I'm wondering what the best method is to align it until I can get it to a professional alignment shop. Where do I set the tie rods? Should I use straight edges off the tires and take measurements? Please help. Thanks Vern


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## 66tempestGT (Nov 28, 2009)

straight edge off the tires will get you real close.


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## onetwomany (Apr 22, 2011)

Thanks 66. I just want to get it in the ballpark until I can drive it to shop.


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## freethinker (Nov 14, 2009)

onetwomany said:


> First timer at doing a frame off on my 65 GTO. Front suspension is all new and I'm wondering what the best method is to align it until I can get it to a professional alignment shop. Where do I set the tie rods? Should I use straight edges off the tires and take measurements? Please help. Thanks Vern


set caster first. eyeball down the spindle ball joint holes. if they are straight up and down its 0 caster.

camber next. for camber just use a carpenter level against the tire and set to 0 by adding or removing shims equally front and rear.

for toe. first center your steering wheel. jack up the tire so you can spin it. take a spray can of white paint and run a bead of paint around the tire in the center of the tire as you spin it. that will be so you can better see your scribe mark. take a sharp tool like a long screwdriver and scribe a mark in the paint bead by spinning the tire while you hold the tool dead steady just touching the tire. i like to rest it in the head of a jackstand so it doesnt move while you spin the tire. do the same to the other side. now measure between the scribe lines front and back. set 1/16-1/8 toe in.
this should get you close enough to drive it.


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## onetwomany (Apr 22, 2011)

Thanks Freethinker. I will follow your recommendations.


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## geeteeohguy (Feb 2, 2008)

I would add my 2 cents, but freethinker has it more than covered. But DO get it aligned by a shop when you're ready....you can chew up a set of tires pretty quick if your toe is out to any measurable degree. (is that a pun?)


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## Thumpin455 (Feb 17, 2010)

Make sure the shop actually aligns it and doesnt just set the toe. Some of the people working on alignment racks dont know how to set the camber and caster on an old car. Most newer cars only have adjustable toe.


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## 1970 Lemans (Jul 25, 2009)

In assessing caster, camber and toe-in, does it matter if the car is on a lift or does it have to be fully weighted (on the ground) for any (or all).

I have also wondered about what is typically done at a standard alignment shop.


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## geeteeohguy (Feb 2, 2008)

'70, when a vehicle is being aligned, it is on an alignment rack, which is a drive on rack. All of the measurements are taken with the vehicle on it's suspension as if it were on the road. I still do alignments in my line of work occasionally, and Thumpin makes a areally good point: the "new generation" of techs are out of the loop when it comes to playing with shims. Find an old timer or an established shop that knows what they're doing.


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## onetwomany (Apr 22, 2011)

I appreciate the good input. Seems like we are losing alot of the more experienced knowledge out in the field. Have you looked for a "Mom and Pop" bike shop lately? My area has just about dried up. Even our long time frame and alignment shop went out of business. Not sure where to go now. I will start looking even though I'm not quite to that point yet. Thanks


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## allpawl66 (May 9, 2008)

Most important is have everything on the car ,spare in trunk etc. Once the alignment is done if you then alter the ride height in any way you will have to have it realigned .


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## 1970 Lemans (Jul 25, 2009)

geeteeohguy said:


> '70, when a vehicle is being aligned, it is on an alignment rack, which is a drive on rack. All of the measurements are taken with the vehicle on it's suspension as if it were on the road. I still do alignments in my line of work occasionally, and Thumpin makes a areally good point: the "new generation" of techs are out of the loop when it comes to playing with shims. Find an old timer or an established shop that knows what they're doing.


While all measurements are taken with the vehicle on it's suspension, are all adjustments made while on it's full weight? Or do you un-weight to adjust and re-weight to measure?


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## Thumpin455 (Feb 17, 2010)

geeteeohguy said:


> '70, when a vehicle is being aligned, it is on an alignment rack, which is a drive on rack. All of the measurements are taken with the vehicle on it's suspension as if it were on the road. I still do alignments in my line of work occasionally, and Thumpin makes a areally good point: the "new generation" of techs are out of the loop when it comes to playing with shims. Find an old timer or an established shop that knows what they're doing.


I had to teach quite a few guys how to do old cars, though some of the machines we had told you how many shims to add or remove and where to get it right. 

The weight in the car when it is aligned isnt that critical, there is a tolerance involved because sometimes you will have a 105lb driver, other times perhaps a 300lb driver and 4 other people in it. It matters much more when you are racing the car, not just driving around on the street. 

I have a specific alignment I use on drag cars, it varies a bit from stock specs because you dont have to be concerned with low speed turning ease, and the front end is usually up a bit from static due to acceleration. It will work on the street, but it is usually better to stick with stock specs. A road race alignment is different too, but you can have tire wear issues with those on the street.

If you want to get close at home, you can use a camber/caster gauge and some have toe adapters to set that as well. If you know what to do then this is an option, if you can barely change a tire it might not be for you. 

Suspension Tuning - Tools & Shop Equipment - SummitRacing.com


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## geeteeohguy (Feb 2, 2008)

'70, the toe is adjusted with the car on its suspension. Sometimes the camber and caster can be adjusted this way, too. The sequence is "camber, caster, toe." Usually, I have to rase the vehicle up to unload the A arms so I can remove/add shims, then it goes back on the turntables for another caster cut and re-check to see where I'm at. The better you are the less time it takes! Toe gets set last. A sign of a good alignment is a straight ahead steering wheel and no pull or tire wear.


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## 1970 Lemans (Jul 25, 2009)

geeteeohguy said:


> '70, the toe is adjusted with the car on its suspension. Sometimes the camber and caster can be adjusted this way, too. The sequence is "camber, caster, toe." Usually, I have to rase the vehicle up to unload the A arms so I can remove/add shims, then it goes back on the turntables for another caster cut and re-check to see where I'm at. The better you are the less time it takes! Toe gets set last. A sign of a good alignment is a straight ahead steering wheel and no pull or tire wear.


So, you usually unload (unweight) the vehicle for caster/camber adjustment (adding removing shims), correct? Is that for safety reasons or because it is too difficult to do otherwise? 

BTW, thanks much for the education, this board is great! arty:


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