# SS or steel brake lines?



## Duff (Jan 12, 2020)

I'm ordering all of my pre bent brake lines from Ames this Week and am thinking about going with stainless, but I read that they're a little tougher to keep from leaking. Any truth in this?


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## O52 (Jan 27, 2019)

Yes, thats right.
If your not driving in the rain or snow or live next to the coast its pointless to use SS. 
If you live in a dry climate, the steel tubes will last longer than your carl.


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## Mine'sa66 (Oct 30, 2019)

Stainless is a PIA.
I live in the corrosion capitol of the world (coastal Maine).
Steel lines last a few years here and we don't use stainless.
We use copper-nickel line, but as o52 said, if you live away from the coast or salt/calcium, regular steel lines are the way to go.


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## rockdoc (Mar 16, 2009)

I agree. I replaced the original lines in my '67 a few years ago with stainless, wanting to get the best I could get. I had a difficult time getting them to seal, particularly at the front calipers (I have stock front disc brakes). I have eventually gotten them to quit leaking, but in retrospect, I should have gone with steel. My original steel lines were not that bad after 50 years in New York and Ohio. Imagine how long the SS lines will last!


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## BearGFR (Aug 25, 2008)

Duff said:


> I'm ordering all of my pre bent brake lines from Ames this Week and am thinking about going with stainless, but I read that they're a little tougher to keep from leaking. Any truth in this?


If you ever have a need to re-do a flare joint on the tubing, it's much more difficult to do on stainless. Look around at the various flaring tools you can find, and if you "read the fine print" most of them will say they can't be used on stainless.

That said, I have stainless on my '69, they don't leak, and I've made some flare connections myself. One of the tricks is in how you cut the tube prior to attempting to flare it. If you use a regular tubing cutter, you'll be in trouble because the way those cutters work will "work harden" the metal and you'll have the devil of a time getting a good flare no matter which tool you use. Instead of a regular tubing cutter, use a hacksaw or a grinding wheel cutoff tool.

Even with all that though, it has on occasion taken me multiple tries to get a good flare that doesn't leak, and it really sucks when you make a perfect flare and then notice that you forgot to put the flare nut on first.... 

Bear


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## Duff (Jan 12, 2020)

Standard steel lines is what it'll be. Thanks!!!!


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## Noangelbuddy (Dec 6, 2017)

BearGFR said:


> If you ever have a need to re-do a flare joint on the tubing, it's much more difficult to do on stainless. Look around at the various flaring tools you can find, and if you "read the fine print" most of them will say they can't be used on stainless.
> 
> That said, I have stainless on my '69, they don't leak, and I've made some flare connections myself. One of the tricks is in how you cut the tube prior to attempting to flare it. If you use a regular tubing cutter, you'll be in trouble because the way those cutters work will "work harden" the metal and you'll have the devil of a time getting a good flare no matter which tool you use. Instead of a regular tubing cutter, use a hacksaw or a grinding wheel cutoff tool.
> 
> ...


Look into the copper conical crush washers to stop stainless steel flare leaks. They worked great for me. A forum member told me the washers are used routinely to stop stainless steel fitting leaks in aircraft. I would copy a link to a source (if I knew how). They are made by Parker and others, sold through Zoro, Pegasus and other suppliers. I used the 37 degree ones. The annealed copper is soft and malleable. Attached picture for reference.


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## Sick467 (Oct 29, 2019)

I like the look of SS lines, but they do take more time to install and take a $300 plus dollar flare tool. The really good flaring tools for regular steel lines won't do SS...don't waste your time. I have not used the crush washers, but I will have plenty on hand when my '67 gets all SS brake, vacuum, & fuel lines. Projects don't need SS lines, but mine get them for the braggin' rights alone. That, and I like to be frustrated...lol Hopefully the crush washers will ease the pain.


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## 64since65 (Dec 11, 2019)

BearGFR said:


> ... and it really sucks when you make a perfect flare and then notice that you forgot to put the flare nut on first....
> Bear


And here I thought I was the only one who did things like that.


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## Sixty7GTO (May 4, 2017)

Noangelbuddy said:


> Look into the copper conical crush washers to stop stainless steel flare leaks. They worked great for me. A forum member told me the washers are used routinely to stop stainless steel fitting leaks in aircraft. I would copy a link to a source (if I knew how). They are made by Parker and others, sold through Zoro, Pegasus and other suppliers. I used the 37 degree ones. The annealed copper is soft and malleable. Attached picture for reference.


Thanks, What a great idea!


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