# 66' door adjustment...



## Instg8ter (Sep 28, 2010)

Please tell me i do not have to take the fender off to raise the front of the door 3/32". Just trying to get all my gaps even this is the last area and i know the Fender normally (per fisher body manual) will sit a little proud of the door at the vertical seamall my gaps are even except the gap door to A-pillar is a bit wide and the top of the door sits a little far back at the edge. if i could raise and shim out the door at the top a bit it would fall inline nicely.


----------



## 66tempestGT (Nov 28, 2009)

you should be able to adjust where the hinge meets the door instead of shims at the pillar. i think it takes a big phillips. i use a phillips bit in a socket or if you dont have enough room use a 5/16 wrench on the bit. if you need front to back you will have to move it at the pillar. there is a special wrench that will work for that.


----------



## Instg8ter (Sep 28, 2010)

thanks Shane, thats exactly what i was thinking, it just needs a little tweaking and i hate to take the fender off and start from scratch. I'll give it a shot tomorrow.


----------



## likethat (Oct 5, 2007)

Off on off on 2x4, off on off on hammer, off on off on curse throw wench, beer number 4, off on off on drill holes for aliment later.

Move to fender and repeat.

This could be a 3 week end trip so be ready and have flowers for the wife or a good lawyer.


----------



## Instg8ter (Sep 28, 2010)

:rofl:....thats what i am trying to avoid IlikeThat, been there done that. the only gap i really don't like is the top of door to bottom of A-pillar ( a bit wide) so if i can just nudge the front of the door up about 3/32" and the top out a thin shim i am golden, every other gap on the car is amazingly in spec. appears some idiot pulled it out of the barn after 35 years with a tow strap to the bottom of the radiator support, straightened all that out and most everything fell back in place.

don't know if you will be able to see it in the pic....just trying to get it right before paint


----------



## 66tempestGT (Nov 28, 2009)

food for thought. if you change the door to match the fender it will change how it fits the quarter. might be able to move the fender a little instead of the door. or a little of both.


----------



## likethat (Oct 5, 2007)

Yep just a hair to much blue showing there in the crack. Thought I would rattle your cage a bit :seeya. I have had the doors and fenders off a million time. They are all off again and taking a long break because I am not happy yet.


----------



## geeteeohguy (Feb 2, 2008)

Here's what I did when I put hinges on the driver's side door of the '67: I got special S shaped wrenches from Harbor Freight. Whole set was like $12. And they WORKED. That, and the big phillips bit in a 5/16 socket plugged into a 3/8 drive breaker bar, and you can close the door on to the breaker bar head a little to apply pressure so you don't strip the screw heads. Door tilt is important, too. You dont want to slam the wing sindow into the A pillar. You can "roll" the door to change gaps, as well. Took me a while to get mine right, but it closes like a bank vault and lines up really well...factory fit, anyway. I had the beer AFTER I got done. Good luck.


----------



## Instg8ter (Sep 28, 2010)

GeeTee, thats how my doors close now, rock solid with two fingers and i want to keep it that way.... Shane i tried that but my cowl and a-pillar to fender are a bit tight now and i don't want to squeeze the hood gap too much. i think your ideas should take care of it, i just haven't been able to get on it yet, was out of town over the weekend and spent yesterday sucking the sand out of every crevasse with surgical tube duct taped to the shop vac and sprucing up the engine bay after I realized they sent me the wrong Centerlink...GRRRRRRR. Motor will be going in next weekend, as weather is supposed to warm up this week. Glad everyone else is just as anal about this stuff as me.....:rofl:


----------

