# Rotten, horrible paint!



## mynameiswazy (May 25, 2007)

Since today was nice, I decided to give the old goat her first coat of wax of the spring. Everything was going well until I got to the doors, and saw the paint beging to peel away on the passenger side door handle.  She is a 2005 with about 42k on the clock. Has anyone gotten this taken care of outside of the warrenty period, and if so was there any charge?
I am hoping that since this is a well known issue, GM will take care of it, but since all the service departments in my area are closed on Saturday, I couldnt call.
Thanks all
Dave


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## GTO JUDGE (May 14, 2005)

Mine was taken care of under warranty. There is a noted problem with this.
You may want to bring this to the attention of your service writer and ask them if they would take care of this as a courtesy gesture. Depending on your rapport with them they have the ability to do that.


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## mynameiswazy (May 25, 2007)

GTO JUDGE said:


> Mine was taken care of under warranty. There is a noted problem with this.
> You may want to bring this to the attention of your service writer and ask them if they would take care of this as a courtesy gesture. Depending on your rapport with them they have the ability to do that.




That pretty much what I figured. I have to get front breaks too. I am guessing thats going to be pricey...


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## bratt68 (May 4, 2008)

Hi all! New to the forum. I purchased a '05 in August of last year with 10,000 miles on it from carmax.com and recently noticed this same problem...paint peeling off the driver's side door handle. I'm glad I'm not alone and that this was the first post I ran up on. I'll be visiting the local dealership to get this fixed!


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## TR GTO (Mar 17, 2007)

My passenger handle is doing it as well, along with the driver's side skirt for some reason. Mine's an '04 with 28k miles.


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## GTO JUDGE (May 14, 2005)

I had thought the paint on these cars is water based. This would explain the poor adhesion, and easy stone chipping. One of my fellow club members told me he's certain the paint is water based. 

Many years ago Dana in Lancaster used to paint the chassis and all assembled components on them for Mack Trucks. It was all petroleum based. Mack decided to go with water based because of the reduced costs. It was a nightmare for our painters. The water based paint on them was terrible, it just wouldn't hold. All kind of back charges were incurred because of it but it wasn't the prep or the painters it was the product. I believe once Mack took the painting back in house they switched back to petroleum based.


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## mynameiswazy (May 25, 2007)

I am calling my dealership tomorrow in regards to front breaks because I cant find the parts anywhere else. Anyone have any idea on cost?


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## SPICERED2006 (Oct 7, 2007)

My wife pointed out the paint chipping of both dor handles on the inside and edges.........great....


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## exwrx (Apr 5, 2007)

mynameiswazy said:


> I am calling my dealership tomorrow in regards to front breaks because I cant find the parts anywhere else. Anyone have any idea on cost?


What are you looking for?? Pads and rotors, do them yourself. I posted a DIYwith pics, including brake lines. Pads are about $100 on ebay per axle, rotors are expensive.... upwards of $150 each. Tirerack.com also is a good place to get pads, rotors, and lines for a reasonable price.

http://www.gtoforum.com/f39/how-brakes-brake-lines-w-pics-16669/


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## exwrx (Apr 5, 2007)

My car's been absorbing water.... ever since I bought it. I've clay-bar'd, waxed, polished etc... When washing it, I can see the paint absorbing the water. The paint looks fine, and it's still really glossy, with no peel, or cracks. My old 91 S10 truck did the same thing.


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## Rukee (Feb 8, 2007)

exwrx said:


> My car's been absorbing water.... ever since I bought it. I've clay-bar'd, waxed, polished etc... When washing it, I can see the paint absorbing the water. The paint looks fine, and it's still really glossy, with no peel, or cracks. My old 91 S10 truck did the same thing.


The paint does not absorb water! :rofl: Paint is nonporous. You may be seeing some optical illusion of the water sheeting or something, but it`s not being absorbed by the paint.


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## exwrx (Apr 5, 2007)

K..... Well.... when I dry it from washing.... the paint has dark sections, which still "appear" to be wet, yet are dry to the touch. Like giant waterspots that are all over my car. It almost looks like a camo pattern when drying. And they disappear after leaving it in the sun for a while. As though the paint is rough in certain areas, or has minuscule fissures and cracks for water to get into. Without getting into the physics of water, and it's adhesion properties (or rather surface tension), it seems that these "spots" are below the immediate surface of the paint, and "pull in" and "retain" water giving the illusion of a sponge effect. The car will look fine, you wipe a wet rag over it, and you see the "camo". Try and reverse the process with a dry rag, and no go.... the spots remain, stubborn as the spanish inqusition. The water evaporates after about 20-30 minutes and everything's back to normal

No amount of scrubbing/buffing helps. Also, water has a hard time "beading" on it. Even after waxing etc... My old S10 Did the same thing, and withing a few months, the clear coat was separating itself from the paint. Seems to be a GM thing, as non of my other cars have this problem from Volvo, Mazda, MBZ, or Subaru... meaning it can't be something in the water itself or air, unless it somehow interacts with some component of the GM paint. My S10 clear coat looked like skin peeling from a sunburn. I'm just hoping that won't happen here. I'll try take a pic of it next time I wash it, see what you guys think.


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## 2006BlueGoat (Jun 3, 2008)

exwrx said:


> K..... Well.... when I dry it from washing.... the paint has dark sections, which still "appear" to be wet, yet are dry to the touch. Like giant waterspots that are all over my car. It almost looks like a camo pattern when drying. And they disappear after leaving it in the sun for a while. As though the paint is rough in certain areas, or has minuscule fissures and cracks for water to get into. Without getting into the physics of water, and it's adhesion properties (or rather surface tension), it seems that these "spots" are below the immediate surface of the paint, and "pull in" and "retain" water giving the illusion of a sponge effect. The car will look fine, you wipe a wet rag over it, and you see the "camo". Try and reverse the process with a dry rag, and no go.... the spots remain, stubborn as the spanish inqusition. The water evaporates after about 20-30 minutes and everything's back to normal
> 
> No amount of scrubbing/buffing helps. Also, water has a hard time "beading" on it. Even after waxing etc... My old S10 Did the same thing, and withing a few months, the clear coat was separating itself from the paint. Seems to be a GM thing, as non of my other cars have this problem from Volvo, Mazda, MBZ, or Subaru... meaning it can't be something in the water itself or air, unless it somehow interacts with some component of the GM paint. My S10 clear coat looked like skin peeling from a sunburn. I'm just hoping that won't happen here. I'll try take a pic of it next time I wash it, see what you guys think.


This sounds very familiar to what the finish looked like on my 2006 GTO (purchased new July 2007). It was a chemical staining that had gotten under the clear coat (it was over the entire car) and could really be seen in the sunlight. Attempted to clean, buff and polish it out with no success (thinking it was initially on the finish) The car had been brokered in from another dealership that had it sitting on his lot for 18 months and did not take care of the finish. After some hasseling with the service manager for 4 months, and finally speaking with the owner of the dealership, paint shop and GM, the car was completely sanded down and repainted under warranty. It took over 2 weeks for the job to be done (took out all windows, removed all parts/pieces, etc.) and the new paint/clear coat job was finished off in a "baking oven" at the paint shop. I just got it back, yesteday and you would never know that it was re-painted except for how well the finish looks now. Being that I've got experience as a automotive paint supplier distributor, I purchased and supplied the paint, clear coat and liquid supplies for the job. I knew what was high quality paint/clear coat and wanted the best. They (GM & dealer) were willing to accept it on my terms. The finish looks great even the painter was proud of the job he had done.


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## Rukee (Feb 8, 2007)

2006BlueGoat said:


> This sounds very familiar to what the finish looked like on my 2006 GTO (purchased new July 2007). It was a chemical staining that had gotten under the clear coat (it was over the entire car) and could really be seen in the sunlight. Attempted to clean, buff and polish it out with no success (thinking it was initially on the finish) The car had been brokered in from another dealership that had it sitting on his lot for 18 months and did not take care of the finish. After some hasseling with the service manager for 4 months, and finally speaking with the owner of the dealership, paint shop and GM, the car was completely sanded down and repainted under warranty. It took over 2 weeks for the job to be done (took out all windows, removed all parts/pieces, etc.) and the new paint/clear coat job was finished off in a "baking oven" at the paint shop. I just got it back, yesteday and you would never know that it was re-painted except for how well the finish looks now. Being that I've got experience as a automotive paint supplier distributor, I purchased and supplied the paint, clear coat and liquid supplies for the job. I knew what was high quality paint/clear coat and wanted the best. They (GM & dealer) were willing to accept it on my terms. The finish looks great even the painter was proud of the job he had done.


This post is worthless without pictures!!




Welcome to the forums 2006BlueGoat!


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## jbeckergto410 (Aug 3, 2008)

I have a yellow gto and my front bumper is a *completely different yellow* from the rest of my car....any suggestions? Or does anyone have this problem?


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## GTO JUDGE (May 14, 2005)

I had heard a while back from a YJ owner there are like 3 different shades of that particular color of Yellow. He pointed it out to me on his car compared to a few others and with the other YJ's on site you could see color differences. I saw on one a week or so ago where a YJ owner had touch up done and he complained that in certain lighting there is a vast shade difference.

Suggestions? Let a highly experienced painter paint blend to match your existing paint if you need paint work done, have the entire area painted not just a feather and blend.


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