# Front brake drum wheel studs??? Look odd.



## Jimsgoat (Sep 1, 2018)

Guys, I'm trying to get the front brake drums of my 69 GTO. I've backed of the adjusters but they are still firm. The rears came off as easy as.
My question is though, there are two types of wheel studs on these front drums. Some seem to be attached to the drum. "I could be wrong" but please have a look at the photo's attached. Maybe these need to be unscrewed?


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## PontiacJim (Dec 29, 2012)

Jimsgoat said:


> Guys, I'm trying to get the front brake drums of my 69 GTO. I've backed of the adjusters but they are still firm. The rears came off as easy as.
> My question is though, there are two types of wheel studs on these front drums. Some seem to be attached to the drum. "I could be wrong" but please have a look at the photo's attached. Maybe these need to be unscrewed?


The front drums are an assembly to include the hub - unlike the rear brakes where you can remove the drum. So you typically pull the entire assembly.

The one stud looks like it has the factory lock ring on it. It is a thin metal piece which I usually just bust it off with a hammer and chisel or even a small screw driver. One of the studs may have been changed - which is done with the drum assembly off.

You may get lucky enough just to remove the drum, but you will have to get that factory lock ring broken off. Then you might be able to beat it from behind with the BFH, but you risk breaking the drum. I always pull the assembly, and then knock the hub through the drum. While at it, you can install new inner and outer bearings/races & seal. But, if the drums are good, they can be turned. If they are too worn, then they will need to be replaced.


You can also inspect the brakes with the assembly off and install new brake shoes if needed and a small parts kit.

Of course, converting to a front disc brake set-up is the way to go unless you have to keep the car original. If sticking with drums, don't use the lifetime type brake shoes as they are usually a hard material and won't stop very well. I always get the lower end/inexpensive shoes as they are a little softer and grab better.

Found this YouTube video that shows pulling the drum while leaving the hub. You will see it is a pain to do it this way, so I just assume pull the assembly. You might want to give this a shot first:


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## Jimsgoat (Sep 1, 2018)

Thanks, I'll see if I can get the hub off.
My future plan is to put discs on the front, but I'll have to try and find a conversion kit for the 14" wheels.


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## BearGFR (Aug 25, 2008)

If you've got a rotary cutoff wheel tool, you can CAREFULLY cut through the edge of that ring to make it easier to get off. I've seen a few that were threaded onto the stud too so you might try turning it with a hammer and a drift on one of those square edges just for grins.


One you get that lock ring off, lots of times you can just whack the drum with a BFH on the face, next to the studs, and that will jar it loose.

Bear


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## geeteeohguy (Feb 2, 2008)

The front drums, as stated, are integral with the hub. Removing the studs and separating the two components is asking for trouble when re-installing...very easy to get a ton of axial run-out. Leave the drums attached to the hubs. To remove, back off the brakes by depressing the adjuster locking arm with a screwdriver while turning the starwheel with another screwdriver or brake spoon. Remove the nut and outer bearing, and the whole deal should just slide off. If not, You can install the wheel with 3 lug nuts barely on the studs, so it's loose. Then, you can use the wheel as a slide-hammer to pull the stubborn drum off the car.


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## Jimsgoat (Sep 1, 2018)

*The drum is off but..........*

Thanks, I'll see if I can get the hub off.
My future plan is to put discs on the front, but I'll have to try and find a conversion kit for the 14" wheels.

I removed the drum and hub to find both drums scored beyond repair. Both had deep grooves where the previous pair of shoes must have worn down to the rivets. I have cut off the studs and removed the hub.
Now my problem is finding new drums. I've done some homework and found that earlier 69 gto's had a 2.78" hub hole and later 69's had 3.03" hub holes. I need the earlier ones, 2.78".
Does anyone know where I might get a pair. It would have to be an online retailer as I'm in Australia.
Fyi, Ames and Opgi dont have them.
Thanks


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## geeteeohguy (Feb 2, 2008)

Ruh-Roh! Sounds like you have a handful of scrap iron now.....Stock GM single piston caliper disc brakes '69-'72 for an A-body will work with most 14" rims and stop great. BTDT............it's a straight bolt-on that can be done in an afternoon.


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## Jimsgoat (Sep 1, 2018)

Geetohguy, I'm gonna have to go discs on the front. I cant get drums anywhere that are the right size.
Can you recommend a 14" disc conversion kit. I want to keep the original spindles.
Thanks
Jim


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## ajluzi1957 (Mar 22, 2017)

Try these https://www.carid.com/raybestos/professional-grade-front-brake-drum-mpn-2056r.html

I have a set that I am not using that are new that I would give you, just pay the freight.

https://nwct.craigslist.org/pts/d/1969-gm-body-pontiac-front/6735688316.html


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## geeteeohguy (Feb 2, 2008)

There you go! I have no experience with aftermarket disc brake kits as I've always used factory parts to convert. Yes, it does involve a spindle change. But it's clean and neat and keeps the front end geometry factory. And the mounting hardware never fails.


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## Jimsgoat (Sep 1, 2018)

Thanks, I've tried the Raybestos drums, they don't fit. Im begining to think someone has fitted this vehicle with something that doesn't belong. Maybe the hubs are off another vehicle.
Anyway I've decided to go with disc brakes and be done with it. I'm looking at the 14" kit at Summit Racing. 
Thanks for the offer of your drums, but its a little expensive to send them to Australia especially if they don't fit either.
Cheers
Jim


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