# Edelbrock carb calibration



## Droach6498 (Nov 1, 2020)

I just purchased a 65 GTO, as some of you know, the person I got it from lives in Salt Lake City, I live SF bay area, sea level. The car seems to be flooding when running. Does anyone know how to recalibrate the carb. Its an 1806s.
Thanks
Clueless


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## BearGFR (Aug 25, 2008)

If flooding is truly the problem, the first most likely things to check (in no particular order):


Float level adjustment
Float condition (not leaking, damaged, or fuel saturated)
Condition of needle and seat
Fuel pressure at the carb inlet

Bear


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## deanhickey (Apr 6, 2015)

watch this video on basic Edelbrock carb adjustment.


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## Droach6498 (Nov 1, 2020)

BearGFR said:


> If flooding is truly the problem, the first most likely things to check (in no particular order):
> 
> 
> Float level adjustment
> ...


I just purchased the car from a guy in SLC 4500' elevation. He said it was running fine there. Im at sea level. So I assume the carb needs recalibration. Went to Edel and the kit is out, I looked at ther chart and it doesnt make much sense to me.


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## deanhickey (Apr 6, 2015)

deanhickey said:


> watch this video on basic Edelbrock carb adjustment.


performer-series-calibration-kit-for-1406-carburetors-1487.html
not sure about what carb you have but they have kits for all carbs. there is also a guide that helps you decide what way to go as far as Jets and rods.


Droach6498 said:


> I just purchased the car from a guy in SLC 4500' elevation. He said it was running fine there. Im at sea level. So I assume the carb needs recalibration. Went to Edel and the kit is out, I looked at ther chart and it doesnt make much sense to me.


I don't think elevation is your problem, to tune a carb for higher elevations I believe you lean it out (reduce fuel) for the less dense air, upon returning to sea level your carb should be running too lean not too rich.


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## deanhickey (Apr 6, 2015)

Amazon.com: Edelbrock 1487 Performer Series Carburetor Calibration Kit: Automotive


Buy Edelbrock 1487 Performer Series Carburetor Calibration Kit: Jets - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases



www.amazon.com





Available on amazon for 50.00


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## Droach6498 (Nov 1, 2020)

deanhickey said:


> performer-series-calibration-kit-for-1406-carburetors-1487.html
> not sure about what carb you have but they have kits for all carbs. there is also a guide that helps you decide what way to go as far as Jets and rods.
> 
> I don't think elevation is your problem, to tune a carb for higher elevations I believe you lean it out (reduce fuel) for the less dense air, upon returning to sea level your carb should be running too lean not too rich.


I just talked to ther former owner he said he calibrated the carb for 4500' he bought a cal. kit. The kit for this carb (1806) is sold out. But I beleive your right its to lean but then why does it smell of gas when its running and not just a little. I did order a regulator that may help.


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## deanhickey (Apr 6, 2015)

I would go back to Bear"s advice and check your floats a inspect them and set to corrects height if needed. If you smell gas it might be leaking by your needle and seat valve. this valve controls how much gas can get to the carb. The most common problem with these are A. Fuel pressure too high, if a higher pressure pump is installed in can over come this valve and excess fuel enters the carb. you would smell gas with this problem. B. contamination in other words crap in your fuel that plugs the valve leading to a lean situation. You mentioned a regulator, not a bad idea with a non stock fuel pump.


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## armyadarkness (Dec 7, 2020)

I have done many Edelbrocks and I just installed a new one on my 67. FIrst thing with them is, there cannot be more than 5.5 pressure at the fuel line, so unless you have a 
regulator on it, then assume that it's definitely got too much pressure, and then pushing the fuel right past the needle seats. Yes, their chart SUCKS, but I can easily walk you through it, and in the end, they're the most user friendly carbs that you can buy.

I put them on everything. You can literally set the ide mixture, needles, floats, primaries, mains, and pump, in less than 15 minutes, on the car, without draining or spilling fuel. They get no love, though!

AVS2 800, hooked up my air fuel meter, and I'm running withint one point of where I want to be. Highly tunable.


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## armyadarkness (Dec 7, 2020)

BearGFR said:


> If flooding is truly the problem, the first most likely things to check (in no particular order):
> 
> 
> Float level adjustment
> ...


Agree bear, but I would definitely check fuel pressure first on "that" carb. Any more than 5.5 and they simply push fuel past the needles, which then makes everything else null and void.


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## armyadarkness (Dec 7, 2020)

Droach6498 said:


> I just purchased the car from a guy in SLC 4500' elevation. He said it was running fine there. Im at sea level. So I assume the carb needs recalibration. Went to Edel and the kit is out, I looked at ther chart and it doesnt make much sense to me.


Do not try to calibrate it, without first understanding it, and having your baseline. If it's rich at idle, and swap springs, needles, primaries, or mains, you'll just be wasting time and adding to your aggravation. Where do you believe it to be rich/ flooding?

Those carbs work like a motorcycle carb; idle mixtures do the idle, how QUICKLY the needles pull out of the primaries is determined by the unloader springs, the FLOW RATE at which fuel is introduced to the primaries, is determined by the needles, then of course you have wide open primaries and mains, and I'll assume that you know what they do.

Once the fuel pressure is assured and the idle mixtures are set, check your vacuum at idled, and the unloader springs should be rated at half that. This way, idle vacuum keeps them in the seats, and when the vacuum drops 50%, the springs will override it and push the needles out of the primaries. The needle taper will determine how much fuel can then pass through the primaries, and at what rate.

These carbs have come a long way and I LOVE mine.


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## Droach6498 (Nov 1, 2020)

Upon reading the Edelbrock


armyadarkness said:


> I have done many Edelbrocks and I just installed a new one on my 67. FIrst thing with them is, there cannot be more than 5.5 pressure at the fuel line, so unless you have a voltage regulator on it, then assume that it's definitely got too much pressure, and then pushing the fuel right past the needle seats. Yes, their chart SUCKS, but I can easily walk you through it, and in the end, they're the most user friendly carbs that you can buy.
> 
> I put them on everything. You can literally set the ide mixture, needles, floats, primaries, mains, and pump, in less than 15 minutes, on the car, without draining or spilling fuel. They get no love, though!
> 
> AVS2 800, hooked up my air fuel meter, and I'm running withint one point of where I want to be. Highly tunable.


I orederd a regulator & filter, (it does have one currently filter that is) just havent received them yet.And new braided steel fuel line. So I talked to the owner he says they didnt remove anything just made adjustment for SLC, Utah. He says he put a fuel sender in the tank, original tank possibly. I bet the filter somewhat clogged. They sound easy to work on Ive watched some Youtubes try and learn the lingo, I just dont know where things are. I need a video to show an idiot like me where the metering rod goes jet etc. I see the spring and how to get to it with the screw and little door you slide over. I would probably do more damage than good.


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## armyadarkness (Dec 7, 2020)

Droach6498 said:


> Upon reading the Edelbrock
> 
> I orederd a regulator & filter, (it does have one currently filter that is) just havent received them yet.And new braided steel fuel line. So I talked to the owner he says they didnt remove anything just made adjustment for SLC, Utah. He says he put a fuel sender in the tank, original tank possibly. I bet the filter somewhat clogged. They sound easy to work on Ive watched some Youtubes try and learn the lingo, I just dont know where things are. I need a video to show an idiot like me where the metering rod goes jet etc. I see the spring and how to get to it with the screw and little door you slide over. I would probably do more damage than good.


One of the first things that you'll hear whenever mentioning the Edelbrock carbs, is that they're the old Carter. Yes they are, and yes Carter was an OEM GTO carb. If you have the Pontiac Service Manual, it has a section on the Carter, and all of the information, specs, and procedures are still true to date for the Edelbrock.









That being said, atop the carb, there are two torx screws, which hold down a little kidney looking metal plate, when you loosen (and not remove) those torx, the metal plate will pop up and you can swing it to the side. That is the unloader valve. When you pull it out it will have the primary needle attached to it (with a tiny safety clip), and the unloader spring beneath it.

but as I advised earlier, never begin calibrating anything until you have a baseline. If you're pump is putting out 8 psi, then you're pushing gas past the needles... and spitting in the wind.








In my craptastic photo, you'll see the green unloader/ needle access points. The red are the fuel bowl screws, the blue circles are the fuel bowls. Unlike a Holley where the bowls are mounted facing sideways, the Carter/ Edelbrock bowl faces up, so you can remove the top and replace the primaries and mains, without spilling or draining. Needles and unloader springs are changed externally.


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## armyadarkness (Dec 7, 2020)

Here's how I always run it... this is my vette, I don't have a pic of the GTO on me, but I'll upload one later... Note the line, filter, gauge, and regulator.


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## armyadarkness (Dec 7, 2020)

Droach6498 said:


> I see the spring and how to get to it with the screw and little door you slide over. I would probably do more damage than good.


We all would tend to. You need a little more information... Be scientific and methodical with your approach. What size carb is it? What size engine is it? When is it rich? For example, if the carb is a 650 CFM (or smaller), then I wouldn't even waste my time with a calibration, because it's probably too small for big cube Pontiac (IMO). Yes, you can rejet it to run better and perfectly efficient, but it could easily steal 50 HP if it cant feed the cubes. FYI, if he was in Utah, the carb would've been leaned out to deal with the altitude, not richened... and in that case, you're running too lean!

Whenever carbs come up, tuning skill always seems to be the topic, but it's really just a bit of science, as well as access to good data. I don't know your history or goals, but if you're up for improving the cars drivability, I highly recommend an air fuel gauge. The make tuning precise and they quickly pay for themselves in fuel savings. I use an AEM but pretty much everyone makes one now.


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## armyadarkness (Dec 7, 2020)

As I reread I see that dean has already mentioned the regulator and altitude.


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## O52 (Jan 27, 2019)

And use a metal can filter!!! No glass, no plastic.


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## Droach6498 (Nov 1, 2020)

Tha


armyadarkness said:


> Here's how I always run it... this is my vette, I don't have a pic of the GTO on me, but I'll upload one later... Note the line, filter, gauge, and regulator.
> View attachment 139896


ts what Im going to do install a 100 filter and regulator I havent recieve the regulator yet the guy said he would mail it out today, ordered 13th. I am using braided steel. I notice my fiel line comes up on the other side so I have to be careful of the alternator, its going to move a bit when I do power steering. But there is a hose there now, and a cheap platic filter, that may be ther problem with the old gas tank. The car was a field find, not barn field. Its hada a bit of rust Ive been scraping. Nothing is bad just surface. Scrape & WD, or paint. But it may be the tank has some rust in it and its clogged the filter a bit. When I remove the filter Im going to take it apart and check it out.
But I do have the Rest and your right its got a blow up of a Carter it does look just like a Edel. One thing they dont show are jets. Arent they on the bottom of the rods? And the bigger the rod the less the jet moves up when accelerating? Is that how it works?
Im looking at the drawing it says the jets are primaries & secondaries? So theres 2 sets on every rod? Not sure how that works. 
Im lokking to trade remodeling for mechanical!. Got house you want to remodel?


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## deanhickey (Apr 6, 2015)

if you want a basic intro to carbs 



this is about 30 minutes a explains how a carb works


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## Droach6498 (Nov 1, 2020)

Thanks Ive actually watched alot of his videos.


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## armyadarkness (Dec 7, 2020)

Droach6498 said:


> Tha
> 
> ts what Im going to do install a 100 filter and regulator I havent recieve the regulator yet the guy said he would mail it out today, ordered 13th. I am using braided steel. I notice my fiel line comes up on the other side so I have to be careful of the alternator, its going to move a bit when I do power steering. But there is a hose there now, and a cheap platic filter, that may be ther problem with the old gas tank. The car was a field find, not barn field. Its hada a bit of rust Ive been scraping. Nothing is bad just surface. Scrape & WD, or paint. But it may be the tank has some rust in it and its clogged the filter a bit. When I remove the filter Im going to take it apart and check it out.
> But I do have the Rest and your right its got a blow up of a Carter it does look just like a Edel. One thing they dont show are jets. Arent they on the bottom of the rods? And the bigger the rod the less the jet moves up when accelerating? Is that how it works?
> ...


Here's how I did the fuel line on the GTO. Bare in mind that I just picked this car up a month ago and it was a mess, so It's still under construction... The fuel line comes up behind the alternator, goes into a filter, then the regulator, and then into the carb. As O52 mentioned, no rubber, glass, or plastic (if you can help it). Since this is under construction, it still has some rubber fuel line, but from the regulator to the carb is all metal and 6an (the rubber hose on the manifold line is just a temp scuff guard).


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## armyadarkness (Dec 7, 2020)

When it's done, the rubber lines will all be gone and it's be a steel line from the pump to the regulator, with a metal filter between the regulator and the carb.


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## armyadarkness (Dec 7, 2020)

For the record, (and to Pontiac Jim if he's reading this, because I know that he has faith in the Ede carbs as well) I just bought an AVS2 800 (along with the jet kit) and out of the box, my mixtures are reading: 15-16 at idle (lean for clean plugs), 13-14 as the needles pull out of the seats, 13-14 at cruise, 12-13 when accelerating, and 12-13 at WOT. That's about as good as you can get... So, I may not even need to open the jet kit.

A note on the AVS2, it is definietely a redesign and it uses an annular booster vs a downleg, so it atomizes the fuel before it ever enters the intake vs shooting a stream of gas. It's much more responsive and linear. I would love a nice Qjet or a tuned Holley spreadbore... but since neither a good Qjet core or a Holley tuner seem to exist around here, the Ede's are a very viable replacement. When you also consider their $370 price tag, it's an even stronger argument.


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## Droach6498 (Nov 1, 2020)

armyadarkness said:


> When it's done, the rubber lines will all be gone and it's be a steel line from the pump to the regulator, with a metal filter between the regulator and the carb.


I have braided steel so when I get the regulator package I will start with the new fuel line.
Question, the original is 3/8" metal, Im connecting with the braided steel, is it possible to connect the two without flaring the 3/8" line? As its just poking out the frame and I dont think flaring is possible.


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## armyadarkness (Dec 7, 2020)

Droach6498 said:


> is it possible to connect the two without flaring the 3/8" line?


Yes. However I don't know what ends are on your braided line. As you can see in my photo, I'm using a combination of flare and 6an... Well, I doubt that you see that, but I am. You can buy a mechanical fitting that will crimp itself to the line. They have this for flare and An (JIC) fittings.

But your line should be coming from the fuel pump, not the frame. The frame line should be going to the mechanical fuel pump. Now I'm wondering if you have an electric fuel pump? You did say that the PO replaced the sender, but I didn't see mention of an electric pump. Is that the case? If so, that's you're flooding issue fo sho.


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## Droach6498 (Nov 1, 2020)

armyadarkness said:


> Yes. However I don't know what ends are on your braided line. As you can see in my photo, I'm using a combination of flare and 6an... Well, I doubt that you see that, but I am. You can buy a mechanical fitting that will crimp itself to the line. They have this for flare and An (JIC) fittings.
> 
> But your line should be coming from the fuel pump, not the frame. The frame line should be going to the mechanical fuel pump. Now I'm wondering if you have an electric fuel pump? You did say that the PO replaced the sender, but I didn't see mention of an electric pump. Is that the case? If so, that's you're flooding issue fo sho.


He said he put a fuel sender. When you turn the key to the on position you can hear it . Ive seen it at the tank its new you can tell, all shiny & new wires.


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## Droach6498 (Nov 1, 2020)

armyadarkness said:


> Yes. However I don't know what ends are on your braided line. As you can see in my photo, I'm using a combination of flare and 6an... Well, I doubt that you see that, but I am. You can buy a mechanical fitting that will crimp itself to the line. They have this for flare and An (JIC) fittings.
> 
> But your line should be coming from the fuel pump, not the frame. The frame line should be going to the mechanical fuel pump. Now I'm wondering if you have an electric fuel pump? You did say that the PO replaced the sender, but I didn't see mention of an electric pump. Is that the case? If so, that's you're flooding issue fo sho.


Ive looked all over for something like that. Crimp itself. Do you know exactly what its called?


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## armyadarkness (Dec 7, 2020)

Droach6498 said:


> He said he put a fuel sender. When you turn the key to the on position you can hear it . Ive seen it at the tank its new you can tell, all shiny & new wires.


That's an electric fuel pump then... and I'll go out on a limb and say in advance that it's your problem. I still could be wrong, but if it's a Holley or something putting out an unregulated flow of "who knows what", the Edelbrock carb will not like it. This is all just a guess, but ede's are notorious for hating anything over 5.5. Even 8 is too much. Get your regulator and it'll take a few days to get it attached how you like. Make sure that you get a gauge for the regulator!!! It won't do you any good if you can't set it.

If you can't flare the line at the frame, they have mechanical connectors which will adapt it to a flare... Other wise, simply remove that line, flare it, and reinstall it. It's a GTO... do it right. Then lets see where you're at.


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## Droach6498 (Nov 1, 2020)

No your right thats why I ordered the 100 micron filter, regulator & 15psi gauge.
You wouldnt have any extra window handle springs I was installing the window handle my wife said something I looked up at her and boing away it went in the garage we looked for quite awhile. I'll check Ames get a few extras.


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## armyadarkness (Dec 7, 2020)

Nope. Sorry. I have front and back, upper and lower control arms, a woodgrain heater plate, and a distributor. No springs


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## Droach6498 (Nov 1, 2020)

Yeh I have several parts my self came with the car. Brand new heater core still in the box & bunch more


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## Jetzster (Jan 18, 2020)

Also Look and see if there’s any ‘crap’
on the bottom of the bowls
Then u know it got past the filters and was messing with your needles


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## Jd70 (Jul 4, 2019)

I suggest pulling a couple spark plugs to confirm rich condition ie. Sooty black, smell like gas. Sometimes people mistake the smell of a lean condition. 
I’ve always confirmed ignition condition like points, dwell, timing before going to fuel system, besides an obvious fuel leak or overflow in the carb.
Just my .02

JD


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## armyadarkness (Dec 7, 2020)

Jetzster said:


> Also Look and see if there’s any ‘crap’
> on the bottom of the bowls
> Then u know it got past the filters and was messing with your needles


That's another nice thing about the Ede's... When you pop the top, you really get to see what's in your gas! Mine had metal shavings in the bowl. I put a magnet in and scooped them up!


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## armyadarkness (Dec 7, 2020)

Jd70 said:


> I suggest pulling a couple spark plugs to confirm rich condition ie. Sooty black, smell like gas. Sometimes people mistake the smell of a lean condition.
> I’ve always confirmed ignition condition like points, dwell, timing before going to fuel system, besides an obvious fuel leak or overflow in the carb.
> Just my .02
> 
> JD


I have to say, I don't see how anyone could mistake lean for rich, however, my car has been smelling rich as HELL for several weeks, and with all of the constant tuning, I assumed that the plugs would be black. I installed my air fuel meter and it read lean... I figured there was an exhaust leak, so I pulled the plugs and they were super clean! You're right, it definitely can be confusing.


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## armyadarkness (Dec 7, 2020)

SO!!!!!!!!!!! Yesterday I was replacing my water pump and when I had the car apart, I realized that there were two lines on the fuel filter! I had never seen that before... I did some digging today, and apparently, it was a thing for 67 GTO's. Howwever, in all of the pictures that I saw, the filter end with the two lines, heads toward the carb. Mine is not that way. It seems like this is for fuel cooling, so I'd like to keep it, but I do plan on ditching that filter. It's in a crap spot.

I assume it's just a "Y", but of course, your car would have to have a line heading back to the tank.


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## Jetzster (Jan 18, 2020)

I think that was a gas tank ‘return line’vent idea on the filter was added on ‘65s and newer GTOs Cause of gas vapor lock issues, especially with AC Installed, 
the ‘64 didn’t have it
The ‘64 vent was just capped off on the top of the tank , but it could be added if needed


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## armyadarkness (Dec 7, 2020)

Jetzster said:


> I think that was a gas tank ‘return line’vent idea on the filter was added on ‘65s and newer GTOs Cause of gas vapor lock issues, especially with AC Installed,
> the ‘64 didn’t have it
> The ‘64 vent was just capped off on the top of the tank , but it could be added if needed


Funny. The previous owner was complaining of vapor lock. I never saw the flow direction of filter, actually matter, but it would be funny if it was vapor locked because the filter was on backwards


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## michaelfind (Dec 14, 2018)

In Texas summer heat, that return line has made a big difference for me, especially back when my gto was my daily driver.


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## O52 (Jan 27, 2019)

And fuel pumps in 67 or 68 and up models with A/C or high performance engines replaced that filter with a return line from the pump


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## armyadarkness (Dec 7, 2020)

I assume that a tee can simply be installed, so that I can replace the dual line AC with something else?


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## Jetzster (Jan 18, 2020)

Perhaps cause the vent outletTube is smaller , it restricts fuel pressure to the vent some, so there’s still plenty of fuel pressure left still going to the carb, 
So adding a ‘T’ might work, as long as it has 
Same size 3 hose diameter connections as the filter has


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## armyadarkness (Dec 7, 2020)

Jetzster said:


> Perhaps cause the vent outletTube is smaller , it restricts fuel pressure to the vent some, so there’s still plenty of fuel pressure left still going to the carb,
> So adding a ‘T’ might work, as long as it has
> Same size 3 hose diameter connections as the filter has


Well I do have a Holley pressure regulator and gauge, right after the filter and before the carb, so I would know if the pressure was too low. In theory.


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