# 1st and 2nd gearshift issues



## SB71 (Feb 20, 2016)

Recently purchased 05 gto, 50k miles, no leaks and runs strong. However, first and second gear are really stubborn sometimes. Have noticed junk in the slave reservoir, drained and refilled multiple timed. I saw on other threads that the slave piston is picking up clutch dust and it makes it's way back to reservoir but this shouldn't cause such stubborn shifting. Noticed it's worse when I'm just puttin around. I can bring shifter back to home position and goes to second fine. Also significant vibration in stock shifter through all gears but it almost rings when I accelerate in second gear. I Generally don't trust transmission mechanics so what's my next step other than a fluid change. Thanks in advance.


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## svede1212 (Nov 1, 2005)

To get all of the dust out you need to flush from the top>down through the bleeder on the slave. It why a remote bleeder is so nice if you ever have to drop the trans.. Then it is really easy to do. To see if the trouble is in that system though park on a flat surface, depress the clutch while in gear and rev the engine a few times. If the clutch is releasing properly you should feel no car movement. Other than that the easy stuff is to drain the trans and refill with GM 88861800 fluid. The stock shifter leaves a lot to be desired and an upgrade (not Hurst or B&M) is strongly advised as a first mod. Hopefully one of those will give some results.


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## GTO44 (Apr 11, 2016)

In addition to what Svede1212 said you should pick up a Tick adjustable master cylinder. It fixed a lot of what you're talking about as it allows enough line pressure to fully disengage the clutch. This will allow you to shift smoother and get it into 1st gear from neutral without having to go to 4th then back to first. I did that first then down the line I did the Monster Level 2 clutch/flywheel/slave package which fixed the rest of the issues. Also i still have a stock shifter and even with new tranny mount and hinson motor mounts it still vibrates.


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## SB71 (Feb 20, 2016)

Thanks guys. I'm gonna do a fluid change and check on the slave cylinder. Since my post I did have the car dyno'd and tuned due to no 02sensors, headers and cai. They pulled 55hp out of it!! Also removed the 1-4 shift mode. 380rwhp.


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## GTO44 (Apr 11, 2016)

SB71 said:


> Thanks guys. I'm gonna do a fluid change and check on the slave cylinder. Since my post I did have the car dyno'd and tuned due to no 02sensors, headers and cai. They pulled 55hp out of it!! Also removed the 1-4 shift mode. 380rwhp.


Great numbers man!! Now get her to the track and see what she does in the 1/4mile!  Well... after the tranny stuff lol


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## svede1212 (Nov 1, 2005)

GTO44 said:


> In addition to what Svede1212 said you should pick up a Tick adjustable master cylinder. It fixed a lot of what you're talking about as it allows enough line pressure to fully disengage the clutch. This will allow you to shift smoother and get it into 1st gear from neutral without having to go to 4th then back to first. I did that first then down the line I did the Monster Level 2 clutch/flywheel/slave package which fixed the rest of the issues. Also i still have a stock shifter and even with new tranny mount and hinson motor mounts it still vibrates.


IMHO the Tick is a bandaid for clutch issues as the stock master pushes the slave out far enough to work properly. The Tick changes the leverage of the hydraulics so movement of the pedal equates to a little bit more throw of the slave piston. It can also allow the piston to extend a little farther (sometimes that's not good if you have it adjusted wrong and it over extends). If the stock master is not leaking for the trouble of installing the new master you'll find a new clutch that's shimmed properly takes care of everything.


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## GTO44 (Apr 11, 2016)

svede1212 said:


> IMHO the Tick is a bandaid for clutch issues as the stock master pushes the slave out far enough to work properly. The Tick changes the leverage of the hydraulics so movement of the pedal equates to a little bit more throw of the slave piston. It can also allow the piston to extend a little farther (sometimes that's not good if you have it adjusted wrong and it over extends). If the stock master is not leaking for the trouble of installing the new master you'll find a new clutch that's shimmed properly takes care of everything.



The main reason I went with the Tick MC is because the clutch pedal would constantly go limp/mushy or stick to the floor after romping on it. And I mean not over and over, just taking it thru 3 gears under full throttle. Then I would have to pump it or wait for the hydraulic pressure to build back up before romping on it again. Also if i held it at 4k or 5k rpm for more than a few seconds (like if i was next to someone about to roll race) the pedal would go mushy and sometimes cause me to miss 2nd or 3rd by locking me out of gear cause there wasn't enough pressure in the system left to fully disengage the clutch. I couldn't imagine trying to race on a road coarse with constant high rpm's with the stock MC.

That being said I probably beat on my car more than most. For daily driving the Tick is def not needed. 

Although i will say a properly adjusted Tick MC won't cause damage to the slave. Plenty of people run them with no issues and I'm one of them. It's also handy at the drag strip to make sure I have plenty of hydraulic pressure to power shift each gear without getting locked out. 

Its really about driving style and what you want out of the car.


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## svede1212 (Nov 1, 2005)

GTO44 said:


> The main reason I went with the Tick MC is because the clutch pedal would constantly go limp/mushy or stick to the floor after romping on it. And I mean not over and over, just taking it thru 3 gears under full throttle. Then I would have to pump it or wait for the hydraulic pressure to build back up before romping on it again. Also if i held it at 4k or 5k rpm for more than a few seconds (like if i was next to someone about to roll race) the pedal would go mushy and sometimes cause me to miss 2nd or 3rd by locking me out of gear cause there wasn't enough pressure in the system left to fully disengage the clutch. I couldn't imagine trying to race on a road coarse with constant high rpm's with the stock MC.
> 
> That being said I probably beat on my car more than most. For daily driving the Tick is def not needed.
> 
> ...


The "limp" pedal is caused by the pressure plate. The centrifugal force of the high RPM overcomes the spring pressure of the pressure plate. A good clutch, adjusted right takes care of that. The Tick Bandaids that by extending the slave piston further to provide more clearance.

I solved mine by switching to a stage 3 clutch. The springs on those are very strong but that puts more strain on the hydraulic system not to mention on-off engagement and a heavy pedal. I later switched to a twin disk and it has the best of all worlds, light pedal, smooth engagement and strong holding power. In the end if you race you need a good clutch and it in itself will take care of the limp pedal. If you want to do both that's OK but it's added expense and aggravation to install one.


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## redmanf1 (May 10, 2016)

Good info^^^


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## SB71 (Feb 20, 2016)

Looks like transmission shop for me. Lots of noise when shifting. Whining, grinding but no slipping. Grabs and goes when I can get it in gear. Also my horn honked again for no apparent reason while driving. Has done it a couple times. Very random. Don't have a clue.


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## GTO44 (Apr 11, 2016)

SB71 said:


> Looks like transmission shop for me. Lots of noise when shifting. Whining, grinding but no slipping.


That sux!

I had my Trans rebuilt at the end of last year. You probably need a new Blocker Ring Kit. It's $749 and comes with Blocker Rings, Cones, Frictions, inserts, springs and fork pads.
BS48 Corvette Synchro.Kit

Hopefully you don't have any messed up Synchronizer Assemblies. But if you do, you can buy them individually depending on which is bad, 1/2 - 3/4 - 5/6 and reverse (each between $100-$150). 

I got my rebuild done under extended warranty so I only paid $100 for my deductible.

The total was right around $2000. $749 for the rebuild kit and $1250 for the labor. That included them taking it out of the car and obviously re-install with new fluid. They also put a new clutch in and only charged me $100 since the tranny was already out. 

Just make sure you find a good shop! Good luck man!


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