# Torque sequence - mains, intake, oil pan



## Bensjammin66 (May 12, 2009)

I am sure this is posted on this forum a dozen times but ive searched and searched without luck.. Does anyone have a link for the torque sequence's when assembling a Pontiac? Mains, intake, and oil pan primarily. I have all new ARP bolts and studs and or grade 8 replacement hardware and have all of the torque specs for tightening just not the sequence in which i tighten them... Anyone have a link where to look?


----------



## BearGFR (Aug 25, 2008)

On the mains, start with the center and work your way out, leap-frog style. I like to work in increments, which means I go through the sequence once taking them all to about 50, then again to 60, etc. until done (of course the rear cap gets that extra bump to the higher spec). 

Intake manifold: Use an "X" pattern starting with one of the two bolts that are close to the center of the head. Next, go to the bolt on the 'other side' (line of sight through the carb flange). Work back and forth from side to side, making wider and wider "X" movements. Again, make several passes working in increments.
Special note on the intake: If you haven't separated the water crossover passage from the rest of the manifold, start by just snugging the intake bolts finger tight and then tightening the skinny bolt that clamps the intake to the back of the timing cover first. Otherwise you're liable to wind up with a leak there.

Oil pan... sequence isn't really all that significant. Just tighten it down evenly and be careful not to overdo it, dimpling the pan rail and causing leaks.

Cylinder heads: Use a "spiral" sequence, starting with the center bolt under the rocker cover. Like so:

9--5--1--4--8
10--6--2--3--7

(Again, tightening in increments)

Bear


----------



## Bensjammin66 (May 12, 2009)

thanks for the info, thats sort of what i assumed for the heads and mains but you never know. esp something like the oil pan. good tip on the intake too. do you suggest any sealer on that oring on the intake to timing cover or no?


----------



## BearGFR (Aug 25, 2008)

If both sealing surfaces on the metal are nice and flat, don't have any pits, etc then you probably won't need sealer on the rubber ring. I usually dab a little silicone on both surfaces though just as insurance. Check the ring to make sure it's thick enough so that when you tighten the bolt it's going to compress some. Some have been found in some gasket sets that are too skinny and won't seal because of that.

Unless you're going for a concours restoration, consider splitting the coolant passage away from the manifold. Benefits are that you can pull the intake without opening up the cooling system, and also when you tighten that front bolt it won't destroy the alignment on all that painstaking work you did to match the manifold port openings to the intake ports in the heads. 

Bear


----------



## Bensjammin66 (May 12, 2009)

Any particular method of doing so better than others? Or one you recommend? This is a performer rpm manifold btw.


----------



## geeteeohguy (Feb 2, 2008)

Also, be advised that some ARP fasteners are longer than the oem stuff. This causes them to bottom out in their respective holes and not tighten. Particularly, head bolts. Be _sure_ that the ARP stuff matches the original stuff you are replacing.


----------



## BearGFR (Aug 25, 2008)

Bensjammin66 said:


> Any particular method of doing so better than others? Or one you recommend? This is a performer rpm manifold btw.


I used a metal-cutting bandsaw to split mine, but that was cast iron. I'd think aluminum should be pretty easy, even using a hand hack-saw.

There are probably a number of "how to's" out on the 'net.

Bear


----------



## Bensjammin66 (May 12, 2009)

geeteeohguy said:


> Also, be advised that some ARP fasteners are longer than the oem stuff. This causes them to bottom out in their respective holes and not tighten. Particularly, head bolts. Be _sure_ that the ARP stuff matches the original stuff you are replacing.


Man i hope thats not the case with the head bolts, i will double check them for sure. I had no choice but to buy ARPs for them because they are KRE alum heads. I cant even use my old GMs as a baseline as these are completely different lengths for the alum ones apparently.


----------



## BearGFR (Aug 25, 2008)

Be very careful. and make SURE you have the recommended bolt lengths. Double-check by just dropping them into the bolt holes (with the washers) and measuring the distance between the underside of the bolt head and the top of the washer. This shows you how much "bite" the bolt is going to have into the block when you tighten it. Too much, and the bolt might bottom out in the hole without putting the needed clamping force on the head. Too little, and you run the risk of ripping the threads out of the block when you start trying to torque the bolt down.

Bear


----------

