# Need guidance restoring 1967 GTO Convertible #'s matching resto



## matthewjend (Oct 3, 2018)

Hey everyone. I have bought a 1967 GTO convertible #'s matching car. IT has about 1/3 of the work done. Just about all the parts were included. 

I have attached picture of it's current condition. I'm looking for a "Process" that I can follow to get this think up and running by summer. 

I will be sub contracting the work out. I have not idea how to assemble the car. 

Any recommendations of a step by step guide?


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## 1966GT0 (Jan 17, 2016)

Restorations by Rick Kreuziger - Assembly Sequence

Go to the above website and look in the tech archive for assembly sequence. Note that this is for a Mopar and there are some differences such as putting the motor in with the k-frame. But I don't know of a Pontiac sequence put together like this. Look it over and ajdust where it makes sense. It won't be perfect but it will give you an idea and something to follow. Note that this is starting from paint complete, I'm not sure what your plans are there. Good luck with it.
Rob


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## GTOJUNIOR (Aug 7, 2011)

Welcome to the world of Pontiac. You really jumped right in there. 
You should start your adventure with learning as much as possible about the 1967 A-Body,
even if you are not conducting the task yourself it's still good to know if it being done correctly. 

I would suggest starting with the basic factory manuals and possibly picking up the either and/or both of the last two Resto books shown below.
Be advised that the Restoration Guide is out of print and can be a little pricey in the secondhand market, but very well worth having.

Best of luck with your project and keep us posted.
Cheers


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## cij911 (Oct 25, 2017)

Just a quick answer (and I agree with the above statements):

1. electrical - make sure everything is how you want it and works perfectly (just need a battery to test most of the important stuff)....
2. the mechanical items - engine, transmission, suspension and brakes - decide which route you are going and try not to deviate; for example remove the motor, store , and get a stroker hi power beast; large brakes ?
3. body and paint - this gets really expensive
4. interior

5. enjoy


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## Shake-N-Bake (Jun 16, 2015)

The best step by step guide that I have seen is for the 1955 Chevrolet Bel Air. It actually shows nearly every item, in order and what the correct finishes are. I haven't seen anything like that for these cars though...

You can put these cars back together by following the same process the factory used. The bodies were built at the Fisher plant and transported to the final assembly plant where it met up with the rolling chassis. The two assemblies were bolted together and then the front clip was attached along with the bumpers, dash (HVAC, instruments, radio, steering column etc), front carpet and seats.

The Fisher plant built the body by welding together various stamped metal panels. Then attached the doors and decklid. Then paint followed by glass and trim
Convertibles were pulled out of line to be fitted with the folding top and associated items and then rejoined the main line of cars. 

Meanwhile, the frame was being assembled into a rolling chassis at a nearby location. The suspension, supply lines, engine, trans, axle, brakes, exhaust etc were attached to the frame before the body was attached.

There is a good sequence listed on the Camaro Research Group website. It's pretty close to the same sequence as your car with the exception that F body cars are unibody with sub frames instead of a full perimeter swept hip frame like your car has. Otherwise...pretty close to the same process.

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk


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## 67goat (Oct 27, 2006)

Same advice others mention above but adding to not rush through the process. Summer is a good goal but delays can happen so focus on getting it done right the first time while it is all apart.


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## Bradsgoat (Feb 12, 2011)

*1967 GTO convertible*

Expect to dish out lots of money, I'm just finishing my 67 GTO conv. 7yr resto new or refurbished everything nut and bolt body off $50,000 invested so far just need top and windshield and it's finally done Regimental
Red with Parchment interior, matching everything, His and Hers auto. Beautiful car farmed out the paint and engine rebuild did all assembly myself, not an overnight project and worked 6-7 days a week did car in my spare time.


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## Bradsgoat (Feb 12, 2011)

The beginning 67 GTO convertible


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## stich (Feb 15, 2016)

Bradsgoat said:


> The beginning 67 GTO convertible


Beautiful, Bradsgoat.

Here's my begining:










And where I'm at so far











2 years in right now. This is where the big $$$$$$ was spent.


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## Bradsgoat (Feb 12, 2011)

Looks like a good one to start with, solid looking. Cool!! Here's where the rest of my money goes, I've had this one since 2002 painted it correct Tyrol Blue last year True Ram Air 4 speed, lots of documentation one of 535 built. All original sheet metal. Keep working on yours Matthewjend trust me it's worth it when it's done.


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## 1967GTO_AL (Apr 30, 2015)

You’re gonna love the car when you’re done. I’ve restored a couple ‘67 GTO verts, the second one was to much more detail. There’s already great advice on here for you and you’ll do fine. Just don’t give up and be patient. Some little advice here and there, put the dash radio speaker in before you put the dash in LOL. I couldn’t get a speaker in time and now I have to pull it all back apart again to install the dash. It’s all good, I enjoy listening to the sound of the motor. 
I agree, get the assembly manual and learn. I know you said you’re farming most of it out but you only want to pay once for an installation. 
I did chassis first, complete with fresh drive train. While assembling the chassis I had the body fine tuned while on a rotisserie, then all the color cut in areas. Painted the body once it was all back together the started final assembly. Wanted electrical first (as already mentioned) but ran into issues and time so I worked on assembling other stuff like widows, weather stripping etc etc. mine is a Tyrol Blue with parchment interior and white top. HO 4 speed car. Also already mention I’d like to agree with take your time and do it right the first time. Anything that has to be redone cost more time and increases the chance of damage removing and replacing newly painted or restored items. 
I did every nut and bolt and have a real good knowledge of the ‘67 GTO convertible. Don’t hesitate to ask questions. 
I can send plenty of restoration pics via messagenger if interested.


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## matthewjend (Oct 3, 2018)

*Original TH400 or new 5speed?*

Stock Trans TH400 or drop in a 5(or6) speed transmission?????

So I'm getting to the end of the rebuild of my 400 stroker and I need to make my decision on my transmission. I really really want Overdrive and I would prefer a manual transmission

My biggest concern about going with a new Tremec 5 or 6 speed transmission is the transmission tunnel modification that I will have to make. Tremec T-56 Magnum Manual Transmissions is the tranmission I'm looking at. 

If I decide to go with a Tremec transmission they want to know the following: 

-Rear End
-wheel size

So I'm looking for feedback on: 
-Transmission suggestions any insight you might have: do's and do not's / Pro's and Con's
---- and rear end gear 
- Tires and Rims - pics please if you can - I'm not exactly sure what I should do here. I would love to put a modern look on the car with a modern wheel package but still retro. I do love the Cragar look 

Here are a couple of pics that I really like. 

the red one has: 225/70/14 front and 255/60/15 rear BFG radials

Thanks guys,


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## PontiacJim (Dec 29, 2012)

matthewjend said:


> Stock Trans TH400 or drop in a 5(or6) speed transmission?????
> 
> So I'm getting to the end of the rebuild of my 400 stroker and I need to make my decision on my transmission. I really really want Overdrive and I would prefer a manual transmission
> 
> ...



The company asking about rear gearing and tire size probably want that to figure on the 5th & 6th gear overdrive ratio. I am going with the Tremec TKO-600 5-speed which has the .64 over drive. The other option is the .82. I went with a 3.89 rear gear in a Ford 9" and figured on a 29-30" tall tire.

So depending on the rear gear ratio and tire size, you can determine what overdrive ratio you may want to use figuring on your car running at 70 MPH at about 2100-2300 RPM's. You can go lower or higher on the RPM's which is your choice and generally dictated by your cam choice.

I see the T-56 offers the OD for 5th & 6th in .80/.63 and .74/.50. I think I would choose the .80/.63 over the .74/.50 unless you plan on regularly running near 90 MPH. Using a 28" tire height, with a 3.90 gear in the rear, you would not be able to use 6th unless you could run your engine down to about 1600 RPM's which would be doubtful. With the .80/.63 a 3.90 gear should put you neared to 70 MPH around 2100 RPM's in 6th gear - which could still lug the engine depending on the cam selection. So my guesstimate for rear gears would be a 3.90-4.11 depending on tire height size as this will affect the rear gear ratio you select.

If you still have the factory 10-bolt, it may not hold up very well behind a stroker engine where HP & torque will be greatly increased. Add wider tires and you may experience a grenade under your car.

Assume you will have to cut/modify the trans tunnel to fit the T-56 along with the other changes to get it to fit. American Powertrain sells a complete set-up to do this - https://americanpowertrain.com/i-85...lle-el-camino-gto-lemans-442-6-speed-kit.html


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## 1968gto421 (Mar 28, 2014)

The stock 8.2 rear end is notoriously weak once the power goes above stock or even when driven spiritedly. Here are a couple links to some reputable rear end guys. Many of the PY forum guys prefer the 9" Ford rear because of it's simplicity if gear changes and reputation for being tough. Many prefer the GM 12 bolt for it's strength. Talk with the rear end guys to learn what you really need. Most of the following include the axle brackets pre-welded to the housing using a jig.

https://www.quickperformance.com/?g...gIgtngqvYy_bUliCBlFRv4mA9M3ifbLcaAsJiEALw_wcB

12 BOLT MUSCLE PAK - Moser Engineering

Here's a link to a discussion of 9" vs 12 bolt: http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=826464

Luck!


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## PontiacJim (Dec 29, 2012)

1968gto421 said:


> The stock 8.2 rear end is notoriously weak once the power goes above stock or even when driven spiritedly. Here are a couple links to some reputable rear end guys. Many of the PY forum guys prefer the 9" Ford rear because of it's simplicity if gear changes and reputation for being tough. Many prefer the GM 12 bolt for it's strength. Talk with the rear end guys to learn what you really need. Most of the following include the axle brackets pre-welded to the housing using a jig.
> 
> https://www.quickperformance.com/?g...gIgtngqvYy_bUliCBlFRv4mA9M3ifbLcaAsJiEALw_wcB
> 
> ...


Just to add, I selected the 9" rear housing & axles from Quick Performance for a number of reasons. The Ford 9" has been around since I believe 1957 and has been used by hot rodders and drag racers ever since. Aftermarket parts are all over the place, from individual parts to complete assemblies. Gearing is the greatest advantage in my book. You can pull the gear assembly out from the front and if you build another gear assembly, you can swap them out in a couple hours - like keeping a set of 4.11's for local blasts and driving versus slipping in a set of 3.23's because you are going 5 hours away to a car show. It is stronger than a 12-bolt in my opinion.

12-bolt's, if factory, are difficult to find any more and expensive if you do. Posi units have clutches and they wear out. Gear changes require rear end disassembly and has to be set-up each time if you swap out gears. You can't bring the "meatball" to a shop like a Ford 9" and have them do the work and you install it. If you cannot do it yourself, you have to bring the car to a shop or the entire rear end to have it set up.

The other option as discussed many times here is the later 971-72 8.5" 10-bolt, but you get back into trying to locate one and then the cost, and then the rebuild. 

So I feel that for a bigger HP/TQ engine, the factory 10-bolt is the weakest link and if you enjoy "using" your car which should be the reason you built the engine up in the first place, it is not a matter of IF it will grenade, but a matter of WHEN - which is always at the worst time when it happens.

Here is my build list and prices to rebuild the 9" I am using in my build. You can probably get a complete rear end cheaper, but I wanted to assemble the rear end the way I wanted it done - do it once & do it right.

9" FORD Rear Axle Assembly - 1968 LeMans

Quick Performance GM A-body 9" housing w/31 spline axles - $745.00
Upgrade to 1/4" heavy walled axle tube rated for 600HP+ - $ 30.00 
Upgrade to new housing center piece & big billet bearing ends - $100.00
11" drum brake kit - fully assembled - $300.00
Shipping - $130.00

Yukon Nodular big-bearing differential case - $354.03
Currie 9-Plus Big bearing pinion support - $114.95
Currie Open carrier case - $105.95
Bolts - Grade 8 for pinion support - $ 7.45
Complete Timken bearing/seal/installation kit - $136.95
Pinion bearing solid spacer kit - $ 16.95
9-Plus big bearing forged driveshaft pinion yoke - $130.55

Power-Trax No-slip locker -$430.00
Shipping -$ 15.65

Motive Gear 3.89 ratio ring & pinion gear set - $189.97

Shop assembly of third member/set-up gears - $128.98

Parts Total -$2,661.80
Shipping Total -$ 145.65
Labor Total -$ 128.98
*TOTAL $2,936.43*


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## geeteeohguy (Feb 2, 2008)

You can go the cheap 'fake' overdrive route like I did with my '67: I kept the TH400 and installed a long-legged rear end (2.56 limited slip). With your stroker engine, no worries. Mine is the stock 400 with lowered compression (9.3:1) and it turns about 2450 RPM at 80 mph. And gets over 20 mpg at that speed. Not a world beater off the line (it'll still burn both tires off the line easily), but kinda neat when it shifts from second to third gear at 105-107 mph under WOT. You can also get a 2.75 first gear for your TH400 to replace the stock 2.48 ratio for better off-the-line performance. Not a true overdrive, but cheap and bulletproof. And involves NO cutting of the floorpans, etc. I drive mine on long distance road trips mostly, 700 mile-1000 mile weekends, and being able to cruise easily at 80+ while sipping fuel is a real bonus to me. I like the car much better now than when it had a 3.36 rear gear. YMMV.....


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