# rotors



## koman (Sep 25, 2006)

hey i just replaced my front rotors with dba rotors and the reason why i replaced them was they were warped. i measured the rotor thickness to be 1.242" and the minimum thickness is 1.181" leaving about 0.060" to turn so maybe 2 times worth of turning. anyhow with all that info what would be the value of these rotors if any? they are in need of turning. stock 06 pbr rotors


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## DLGII (Aug 9, 2007)

I just got the DBA 4000XS rotors installed on my 06 A4. My rotors where warped also. I did not have the old rotors measured or turned though. I did some research online and I have determined that driving at high speeds and braking, even slightly on some rotors causes hot spot that give you the warped feeling when braking. I got a set of DBA's for the front and back, and replaced the original pads with Red Stuff ceramics. I have not had time to test them but I will post back after I have some time with them. I will saw this much, they look good.


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## koman (Sep 25, 2006)

so far the DBA 4000 6x6 wiper slots are holding up. i haven't had much chance to do high speed driving, mainly work and very little joyriding. i have a feeling the rotor warpage may have been caused by poorly lubed slider pins. literally there was a huge difference between the two pads inside and outside. ie, the outside thickness was let's say 0.200" and the inside was 0.100" when i get the chance i think i will replace the rear ones too which probably don't need it. the rear rotors seem fine, it's only the front ones that were terrible. no more slowdown shimmy!


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## 1bad05goat (Oct 17, 2008)

I have the slowdown shimmy to. I am definately going to be replacing them. I was wondering what I should buy? How much? and if it is also necessary to replace the pads? Thanks!


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## Rukee (Feb 8, 2007)

1bad05goat said:


> I have the slowdown shimmy to. I am definately going to be replacing them. I was wondering what I should buy? How much? and if it is also necessary to replace the pads? Thanks!


Usually that happens from not using a torque wrench to tighten the wheels. Some of the tire guys just use a air wrench and not torquing them to the proper specs. Because the wheel holds the rotor on, all the wheel nuts need to be the same tightness or one spot on the rotor will expand and contract at different rates causing the warping.


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## koman (Sep 25, 2006)

Rukee said:


> Usually that happens from not using a torque wrench to tighten the wheels. Some of the tire guys just use a air wrench and not torquing them to the proper specs. Because the wheel holds the rotor on, all the wheel nuts need to be the same tightness or one spot on the rotor will expand and contract at different rates causing the warping.


i've heard this over and over but i'm really not sure how much i believe this for these rotors. i believe it's more of a materials issue over the torquing. now if the mating surfaces were not machined within their GD&T dimensions then i could see how it would affect it. anyhow the rotor replacement is straight-forward. remove wheel, remove caliper, pull off rotor and replace in the order you removed. REMEMBER to replace the pads as well because they will establish a new wear pattern and won't be prone to chatter as much from the previous warping. i didn't use the torque wrench on retorquing my new rotors on my vehicle and never had an issue once i replaced the rotors. i did use a 24 inch cheater to "aid" some. i liked the dba 4000s although they are pricey as is everything else for this car. i replace the pads with some ceramic pads from autozone or advanced for 71 bucks. rotors were something like 198 a rotor...versus 190 for similar rotor for a 2006 porsche 911...


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