# What to expect from motor



## Cpldavis37 (Aug 20, 2009)

I bought a rebuilt 455 a couple months back and I was wondering what kind of power I should expect 

Its a 455 .30, with #13 heads (2.11 intake, 1.77 exaust, 72cc chamber). It has a Comp Cam 51-116-3 part number (specs below) It has forged pistons with stock contecting rods. It came with a set of headers, I plan on getting an edlebrock performer intake to go with the carb (edlebrock 1406)that also came with it.

Will this engine run off pump gas or is the compression be to high? 
It will turn a saginaw 4spd with the BOP (8.25 rearend I think 3.26 gears, no posi) will I need to upgrade the rearend and transmission? Lots of questions, but I am a novice at best, but I can change parts with the best of them.:lol:

Cam Style Hydraulic flat tappet 
Basic Operating RPM Range 1,800-5,800 
Intake Duration at 050 inch Lift 230 
Exhaust Duration at 050 inch Lift 240 
Duration at 050 inch Lift 230 int./240 exh. 
Advertised Intake Duration 308 
Advertised Exhaust Duration 320 
Advertised Duration 308 int./320 exh. 
Intake Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio 0.516 in. 
Exhaust Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio 0.516 in. 
Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio 0.516 int./0.516 exh. lift 
Lobe Separation (degrees) 114 
Intake Valve Lash 0.000 in. 
Exhaust Valve Lash 0.000 in. 
Computer-Controlled Compatible No 
Grind Number 041H 
Notes Fits factory ID number 9794041.


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## Rukee (Feb 8, 2007)

It depends on what pistons it has.


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## Cpldavis37 (Aug 20, 2009)

TRW i think ill have to check my paperwork, The guy who built it said it was 11:1 compression if that helps.


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## jetstang (Nov 5, 2008)

An Edelbrock 1406 is a 600 CFM carb, that is not enough carb for that motor. Comp cams says this cam is the Ram Air 4 cam, I didn't know it was that big, nice cam. Specs make it look very radical. It does have 114 lobe seperation, giving it some idle quality. Oh, a single spin rear with 3.26 gears is a joke for that motor, I predict you will be swapping the tires on the rear, left to right, about weekly. No tire will hook up with a single spin regardless of size, if it would hook, you'll break it with that much power. The small chamber heads don't need a lot of piston to have big compression, so 11:1 sounds about right, if not low. So, race gas it is.
The perfect combo for this motor would be a built turbo 400, 12 bolt posi with 4.11 gears. Also, rear suspension upgrades to get it to hook.
If it's too much motor, I have a fresh 350 with a small cam I could trade you... ha ha


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## Too Many Projects (Nov 15, 2008)

Yup, what he said....:agree
The Saggy will say bye-bye very soon after adding a posi. They were only good for about 275hp. Sequences, sequences...:willy:


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## Cpldavis37 (Aug 20, 2009)

jetstang said:


> An Edelbrock 1406 is a 600 CFM carb, that is not enough carb for that motor. Comp cams says this cam is the Ram Air 4 cam, I didn't know it was that big, nice cam. Specs make it look very radical. It does have 114 lobe seperation, giving it some idle quality. Oh, a single spin rear with 3.26 gears is a joke for that motor, I predict you will be swapping the tires on the rear, left to right, about weekly. No tire will hook up with a single spin regardless of size, if it would hook, you'll break it with that much power. The small chamber heads don't need a lot of piston to have big compression, so 11:1 sounds about right, if not low. So, race gas it is.
> The perfect combo for this motor would be a built turbo 400, 12 bolt posi with 4.11 gears. Also, rear suspension upgrades to get it to hook.
> If it's too much motor, I have a fresh 350 with a small cam I could trade you... ha ha


I have been looking at 12bolt rearends, but have no idea which ones will just bolt in. I also want to keep a 4spd so, what about a munice m20/21. Would it be strong enough or should I try and find an M22.


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## Too Many Projects (Nov 15, 2008)

Cpldavis37 said:


> I have been looking at 12bolt rearends, but have no idea which ones will just bolt in. I also want to keep a 4spd so, what about a munice m20/21. Would it be strong enough or should I try and find an M22.


Any 68-72 12 bolt will bolt right in. You will most likely need a conversion u-joint for it mate to the drive shaft but they are available. Unless you can get the control arms with the axle, you will also need to relieve the left upper control arm for clearance at the housing. Nothing a few minutes with a grinder won't fix.
A Muncie M20 would be a good choice or even a Borg Warner Super T10, if you happen across one.
Start hittin' the swap meets and Craigslist. :cool


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## 05GTO (Oct 6, 2004)

Cpldavis37,

FYI, With a flat tappet cam and lifters you will need to add zinc to your engine oil to prevent excessive wear, I believe GM has an additive and there is also ZDDPlus.

Nice specs on the cam,


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## jetstang (Nov 5, 2008)

Too Many Projects said:


> Any 68-72 12 bolt will bolt right in. You will most likely need a conversion u-joint for it mate to the drive shaft but they are available. Unless you can get the control arms with the axle, you will also need to relieve the left upper control arm for clearance at the housing.


The GTO never came with a 12 bolt, or the 12 bolt has a bigger U-joint? I put a 66 Chevelle 10 bolt in my 70 Lemans. The 66-67 rear is 5/8" narrower and you can tuck 275s right up in the wheelwells, with the stock rear tires would lightly scrub. I had to run a Chevy to Pontiac conversion U-joint, but everything else fit fine without clearancing.
A nicelly prepped 10 bolt posi will live behind your motor as long as you don't put big slicks on and take it to the strip too much.


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## Cpldavis37 (Aug 20, 2009)

thanks for all the tips. This forum never lets me down!!!!!


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## geeteeohguy (Feb 2, 2008)

TMP is referring to GM 12 bolts, not Pontiac specific, I think. The GTO did indeed come with a 12 bolt, starting in '70. Especially when it had a 455. Needs: race gas for the high compression, at least a 750cfm carb, and a stronger gearbox....M-20 or M-22. Leave the M-21 alone unless you go with 3.73 or steeper gears. All of the above advice sounds good to me.


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## 05GTO (Oct 6, 2004)

geeteeohguy said:


> The GTO did indeed come with a 12 bolt, starting in '70. Especially when it had a 455.


:agree

The 70 GTO with a 455 HO could be ordered with a type-c 12 bolt, I don't think they offered it but one year,


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## Too Many Projects (Nov 15, 2008)

geeteeohguy said:


> TMP is referring to GM 12 bolts, not Pontiac specific, I think.


Yes, thanks Jeff, I am referring to Chevelle 12 bolts. Some Olds A bodies came with a "12 bolt" too but only the cover had 12 bolts and the ring gear still had 10. They don't have a very good following and the parts to build them are VERY hard to find and EXPENSIVE.


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## jetstang (Nov 5, 2008)

I guess this proves that good 10 bolts lived behind almost all GTOs, 442s, and Buick GSs, all making near or at 500 ft lbs of torque. So, buy a nice posi chunk, good gear and tear it up.
The turbo 350 trans and 10 bolt was the baby brother of the turbo 400 and 12 bolt.


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## Rukee (Feb 8, 2007)

jetstang said:


> I guess this proves that good 10 bolts lived behind almost all GTOs, 442s, and Buick GSs, all making near or at 500 ft lbs of torque. So, buy a nice posi chunk, good gear and tear it up.
> The turbo 350 trans and 10 bolt was the baby brother of the turbo 400 and 12 bolt.


I'd say little brother rather then baby brother. Baby brother was the metric 200 tranny and the rear end would be that tiny posi unit they put into the v8 monza and vaga's.


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## Cpldavis37 (Aug 20, 2009)

Well I called Moser just to check out some prices on a custom 12 bolt or a ford 9" and they were both about $3000 plus tax and shipping. I did not plan on going that way anyways, but its nice to know that I can never afford one.:lol: Ill keep looking around when I find a good deal Ill upgrade my current rear or find a 12 bolt and try and find an M20-22. 

Side note dont I need a different size driveline with the M22?


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## Chris Holabaugh (Jan 18, 2009)

You also should do something to keep the rear tires from hopping and if you plan any racing with the 12 bolt you may want to check the number of splines on the axles.


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## Rukee (Feb 8, 2007)

I've never experienced wheel hop on the `65.


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## geeteeohguy (Feb 2, 2008)

That's 'cuz you have air bags. Mine used to hop like crazy before I put stock springs back in place. Had to use Lakewood bars on the old '66 I had.


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## Rukee (Feb 8, 2007)

geeteeohguy said:


> *That's 'cuz you have air bags. * Mine used to hop like crazy before I put stock springs back in place. Had to use Lakewood bars on the old '66 I had.


That could be, I put them in to help the wheel rub on launches, hadn't thought about them helping wheel hop.


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## Too Many Projects (Nov 15, 2008)

Cpldavis37 said:


> Well I called Moser just to check out some prices on a custom 12 bolt or a ford 9" and they were both about $3000 plus tax and shipping. I did not plan on going that way anyways, but its nice to know that I can never afford one.:lol: Ill keep looking around when I find a good deal Ill upgrade my current rear or find a 12 bolt and try and find an M20-22.
> 
> Side note dont I need a different size driveline with the M22?


Yes, the yoke is the same large diameter as a TH400 and will fit on a standard shaft. A think a TH400 shaft is shorter and won't reach the M22.


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## geeteeohguy (Feb 2, 2008)

Rukee, somewhere I have an article from 1966, in Hotrod magazine, I think, where they installed Air Lift drag bags like yours in a new '66 GTO. with a Bobcat kit and open exhausts, tripower, 4 speed, and 3.90 gears, they got the thing to run 12.40's in the quarter mile. It was impressive. In all of the reading I've done, the air pressure was set at different rates from side to side to help the launch and eliminate hop. I forget just what pressures on what side of the car. I have Air Lift bags in my '94 4Runner, and they've been great for the past 10 years keeping the ride height and ground clearance where it needs to be when loaded up with camping equipment and off-roading. I have a seperate hose to each bag. Air LIft is a great product that's been around a LONG time!!


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## jetstang (Nov 5, 2008)

You put more pressure in your right rear air bag to keep the car from twisting on launch, you adjust the pressures until it launches straight.


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## Rukee (Feb 8, 2007)

geeteeohguy said:


> Rukee, somewhere I have an article from 1966, in Hotrod magazine, I think, where they installed Air Lift drag bags like yours in a new '66 GTO. with a Bobcat kit and open exhausts, tripower, 4 speed, and 3.90 gears, they got the thing to run 12.40's in the quarter mile. It was impressive. In all of the reading I've done, the air pressure was set at different rates from side to side to help the launch and eliminate hop. I forget just what pressures on what side of the car. I have Air Lift bags in my '94 4Runner, and they've been great for the past 10 years keeping the ride height and ground clearance where it needs to be when loaded up with camping equipment and off-roading. I have a seperate hose to each bag. Air LIft is a great product that's been around a LONG time!!


Yeah, I had herd that too to put more air in the right rear bag. I have both of mine run together. As you can see from my burn-out videos, I can't launch for crap!!:lol:


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