# Sticky  Autobody Welding and Sheet Metal Fab. Tips/ Tricks



## Ranger01 (Nov 14, 2008)

Well, Ive decided to start a thread to lend some help in the area of my expertise.
So Im gonna start a Q&A Thread.

Just bring any and all of your fabrication and welding questions (Hell, bring your answers too!) here, and I will answer them to the best of my ability.


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## Face (Dec 22, 2008)

umm.. can I just bring you my car?

No seriously, what are some good tools to start out with? I have a 110 mig welder, and a bunch of cutting tools. 

What is the best tool to cutoff old sheetmetal? I have a sawzall(to messy), dremel(to small), angle grinder(?), and a air cutoff tool(compressor has crappy duty cycle).

Also I need a good spot weld driller outer. I bought some from northern and they are poop.


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## Ranger01 (Nov 14, 2008)

Face said:


> umm.. can I just bring you my car?
> 
> No seriously, what are some good tools to start out with? I have a 110 mig welder, and a bunch of cutting tools.
> 
> ...


Hi Face, It seems like you have the right tools already to get the sheet metal cut off.
A cutoff wheel is the preferred tool to cut off old sheet metal. Your problem seems to be stemming from your air compressor. If you can afford a new compressor it will pay for itself many times over by not giving you a headache. A plasma cutter will work but they can be rather spendy, and most good models require a decent air compressor anyways. (Point- Get a good air compressor.)
A good tool to drill out old spot welds is a Pneumatic drill, with a special bit for drilling spot welds out. You can find the bit at almost any automotive supply store, they can be expensive though. The drill running from $30 to $300, and the bit running from $10 to $35. But the bit and drill will work faster and (not to mention safer) better than using a standard electric drill and a standard bit. The best bit to go for is one that is made of Carbide, they are tougher and a bit sharper.

As for welders, a 110 MIG machine will cover pretty much all of your needs. Just remember to use the safty equipment you have, and to set it up right, and you will be happy with it.

If you need any more help feel free to ask.
-Ranger01


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## rossph (Oct 26, 2008)

Hello,
I found some of the same problems with my cut off saw(air) and finally started just using my grinder it works great, but make sure you get a very thin cutting blade. I found for cutting out the spot welds i use a drill bit to drill a small hole in the weld and i found a tool that has a center pin and a cutter that is spot weld size it works great it is called a rotabroach cutter by blair(3/8). I am replacing the trunk pan and quarters on my 70 GTO. I use a 110 Deca Mig and it works great only thing is the weld material is very hard and takes a while to grind off. If you practice you can get an almost perfect replacement of the part that has been removed, but it can take up to 6 hours to fab a small piece up before even welding (12" X 2"), i make my replacement piece almost a perfect fit before welding( use a bench grinder to get a perfect fit of the replacement piece) then only tack it in and keep going around the piece this is where you need patience go slow and you will have no warp problems rush and it will become a mess, you can do some grinding in between welding, but the most important thing is to go slow and keep tacking around the repair then work small beads 1" max on each side working towards the middle and waiting between for things to cool. Patience will be rewarded with an almost perfect replacement of solid metal. I also use a pneumatic flange tool to create lap joints, these can be used where you have a big enough area to get in there with the tool. It creates a step where you can overlap the sheet metal and do a lap weld or punch holes in the piece and pseudo spot weld it on. Make sure you seam seal behind welds before painting.
Ross


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## Eric Animal (Oct 28, 2007)

Cool thread ! I gotta replace my tail light panel. Will be asking questions here. Thanks!


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## geeteeohguy (Feb 2, 2008)

I agree. Excellent thread, and should probably be moved to the special section up top! If I had a GTO that I was going to cut and weld on, I would check out the free or very cheap adult education night classes on welding (usually at local colleges/junior colleges), and I would parctice quite a bit on some like material, like an old junk fender, etc. Also, "How to" videos are out there, even some on youtube are really helpful.
Jeff


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## Face (Dec 22, 2008)

How do you fix this:

Driverside rear doorjamb









Passenger front doorjamb









Passenger windsheild frame









The spots like these with a bunch of bends are what scare me.


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## 05GTO (Oct 6, 2004)

geeteeohguy said:


> I agree. Excellent thread, and should probably be moved to the special section up top!
> Jeff


:agree


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## Rukee (Feb 8, 2007)

Wow, Face, that's pretty rough! That window channel (Heck the whole car! ) is going to be a challange!


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## 05GTO (Oct 6, 2004)

Face,

I would suggest finding a donor car with less rust and then making 1 car from the 2. There is a junk yard about 15 miles from me that has 5 or 6 66/67 lemans and tempest on their lot. The cars are rough and I don't know the price(s),

Good luck,


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## Too Many Projects (Nov 15, 2008)

Doesn't he have a donor body sitting right behind it ? Hopefully the donor has some of what he needs to graft in. 
Also, I bought weld thru primer to eliminate the corrosive effects of the weld and anti-heat compound to contain and absorb excess heat from spreading out and warping panels. Both are from Eastwood. I've only used both in practice sessions so far but the anti-heat is really cool and reusable !


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## Face (Dec 22, 2008)

The donor is in a lot worse shape, but there are some pieces worth using like parts of the dash. Here is some work I did today. Just need to break out the welder and tack it in.


















I got the inside piece cut also just no pictures.


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## Rukee (Feb 8, 2007)

Are you going to cut that rust out? Or just go right over the top?


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## Too Many Projects (Nov 15, 2008)

Ummmmmm, yeah, I was wondering that too. I hope you have a few cans of rust converter too to spray inside the hole to stop it from spreading before you seal it up.


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## 05GTO (Oct 6, 2004)

Before you do any fabricating you should remove all of the rust, paint and old filler, then treat the metal with a rust remover, or inhibitor, or converter and then spray the clean bare metal with an epoxy primer/sealer to stop any future rust. 

You will be surprised how much rot is hidden under that crust and the fabing you are doing now will have to be removed and re-fabbed.

On my 66 I started with a half dozen pin holes in the trunk floor, I had the entire body blasted and when I picked the car up the trunk floor looked like swiss cheese.


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## Face (Dec 22, 2008)

Yes I did cut out the rusty metal and sprayed rust converter and paint down. I just didn't take pictures of it. I cut some patches for the windshield channel also. The good thing about that area is no one can see it! I'm going to see about tacking them in soon. I'll post up some more pictures on the body work thread for amateur rust repair. Ha!
The author needs to chime in!


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## 05GTO (Oct 6, 2004)

Face,

There is a replacement lower channel available, I had to replace mine as well;


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## rossph (Oct 26, 2008)

Couple of questions:
1. has anyone used the glue to glue on quarter panels? and can you screw them on with sheet metal screws then take the screws out and fill the holes (what would you use to fill the holes?) I think it would be very hard to get clamps on the quarter to hold it together while the glue drys.
2. Around my rear window at the bottom i have some rust, but most of the material is still there, do you think i should cut it out and replace it with metal or can you use a filler around this area, there is nothing that is right though perforation, any thoughts?
Thanks


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## 05GTO (Oct 6, 2004)

rossph said:


> Couple of questions:
> 1. has anyone used the glue to glue on quarter panels? and can you screw them on with sheet metal screws then take the screws out and fill the holes (what would you use to fill the holes?) I think it would be very hard to get clamps on the quarter to hold it together while the glue drys.
> 2. Around my rear window at the bottom i have some rust, but most of the material is still there, do you think i should cut it out and replace it with metal or can you use a filler around this area, there is nothing that is right though perforation, any thoughts?
> Thanks


I've never used a glue, just old fashion welding.

My last project was done this way;

1) We cut out the damaged or rusted area, then we measured and trimed the skin to fit with a 1/2 inch overlap. Then we flanged the edge of the cars body so the skin would sit flush. The flanging tool also has a hole punch which we used on the skin to punch holes in one to two inch incriments along the skins edge.










2)We drilled 1/8" holes thru the skin and the body and used klecos to hold the metal together while we plug welded the two sections together. Then we plug welded the 1/8" holes.










3) The area where the metal meets was then welded to keep it from seperating. Then a grinder was used to smooth over the welds. 










After the grinding you can use "metal2metal" or "all metal" to fill in the gaps.


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## rossph (Oct 26, 2008)

great information, how is that metal2metal or all metal? is it aluminum based, and does a magnet stick to it is it better than using fiberglas bondo type filler? I have not cut all the way up the quarter, is it better to go right to the top of the new quarter or just use the panel for the area that is rotten? thanks for all the help.


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## Jim (Oct 30, 2008)

05GTO said:


> Face,
> 
> I would suggest finding a donor car with less rust and then making 1 car from the 2. There is a junk yard about 15 miles from me that has 5 or 6 66/67 lemans and tempest on their lot. The cars are rough and I don't know the price(s),
> 
> Good luck,


Let's look at the bright side, One good thing about it, he can practice with all his tools and hone his skills on this one!!!!!


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## Swifty (Jun 4, 2009)

Hey folks im new here, i bought a 70 lemans sport convertible...with a load of work needed ...hope i wont bug anyone too much, but as i get going i will be looking for how tooès on floor repair etc
mike from the Maritimes(canadian east coast)


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## Too Many Projects (Nov 15, 2008)

Welcome !!! As you can see by my avatar, I have a bit of work to do on mine too. I have a complete 1 piece floor assembly waiting for me to pick up along with both inner and outer rocker panels too. I was making slow progress on mine over the winter but then I got sidelined with having to go back to work.  Once I get the frame built up and the body on it, I will get on with cutting out the floor and replacing it.


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## Joust (Jun 6, 2009)

What is the best welder and setup for this type of welding?
I have a Mig and a Tig/arc/Plasma machine.
I assume the MIG is probably good for body work.
next is the wire. is Flux core or argon Gas best?


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## Fred007 (Jul 23, 2008)

Joust said:


> What is the best welder and setup for this type of welding?
> I have a Mig and a Tig/arc/Plasma machine.
> I assume the MIG is probably good for body work.
> next is the wire. is Flux core or argon Gas best?


To add to this, I have a Lincoln stick welder for anything really big and was thinking of picking up this for sheet metal welding. Browser Level Verification
My thought was that having a 110v welder might be a little more versatile than a 220v input, and I am only looking to weld lighter weight metals.

Also for body/sheet metal, I would also like to know about flux core or gas. And, any good videos or live training materials to get started? Or is practice, practice, practice the way to go forward?


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## rossph (Oct 26, 2008)

I use a Deca 150 welder from Princess Auto with Gas and it works great:
Deca s.a.
When using gas you have to be careful that there is not a lot of wind (if welding outside) as it strips away the shielding gas and gives bad welds. This welder has worked flawlessly for over 2 years of restoration work and was fairly cheap around $500.
Here is a link to some welding info:
Welding 101, Welding Tips and Hints, Welding Glossary - Hobart Welders


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## Rukee (Feb 8, 2007)

Fred007 said:


> Also for body/sheet metal, I would also like to know about flux core or gas. And, any good videos or live training materials to get started? Or is practice, practice, practice the way to go forward?


flux core has the gas trapped inside the wire. gas welders have a tank on the back for the shielding gas. Gas welders work much better and give way better looking welds.


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## Fred007 (Jul 23, 2008)

A friend also mentioned something he called "Easy Grind", apparently some kind of wire that is easier to grind off. Anyone ever use this?


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## DANS66 (Jul 17, 2009)

05GTO said:


> I've never used a glue, just old fashion welding.
> 
> My last project was done this way;
> 
> ...


Excellent work!!!! How are those replacement skins?I've been waiting for 2 years for opgi to come out with full quarters,but it looks like that wont happen.I was told that you need to buy the lower patch panel too, to have the proper lines behind the tire,is that true?Also, have you done any butt welding of panels,using those clips they sell?


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## lawman (Jul 30, 2008)

*Floor panel replacement*

Hey,
I'm diving into redoing my 66 coupe. I'm starting with the interior floor and trunk pan replacement before I take the body off the frame.
My questions now are...Is there a trick to measuring the old and new pans prior to replacement so they fit right, and what is the best way to weld them.
I have a MIG welder, but I'm assuming that I shouldnt weld the entire seem to avoid warpage. How do I do it right (and simple! if thats possible)
I'm using the 4 section pans for the interior and the 3 section for the trunk.


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## Too Many Projects (Nov 15, 2008)

lawman said:


> Hey,
> I'm diving into redoing my 66 coupe. I'm starting with the interior floor and trunk pan replacement before I take the body off the frame.
> My questions now are...Is there a trick to measuring the old and new pans prior to replacement so they fit right, and what is the best way to weld them.
> I have a MIG welder, but I'm assuming that I shouldnt weld the entire seem to avoid warpage. How do I do it right (and simple! if thats possible)
> I'm using the 4 section pans for the interior and the 3 section for the trunk.


You should weld the entire seam for strength. You just weld it in 1" stitches, moving around and letting each stitch cool. If you haven't already bought the multi piece floor, look into the 1 piece. It comes with the 3 floor braces already welded to it. I have one for my 67 and it looks really nice. I won't know how it fits until this winter. I will be getting the 1 piece trunk floor when I get that far too.


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## lawman (Jul 30, 2008)

Too Many Projects said:


> You should weld the entire seam for strength. You just weld it in 1" stitches, moving around and letting each stitch cool. If you haven't already bought the multi piece floor, look into the 1 piece. It comes with the 3 floor braces already welded to it. I have one for my 67 and it looks really nice. I won't know how it fits until this winter. I will be getting the 1 piece trunk floor when I get that far too.


Hey, Thanks for the help!
Unfortunately, I already have the 4 piece sections...I got them about 15 years ago and theyve just sat around! I also have the braces and the seat supports.


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## chevyboy91188 (Oct 31, 2009)

hello,
im getting ready to get going on my new 66 gto project and i had a few body related questions. i was looking at this thread and i was wondering, what kind of amperage do you use when welding on replacement panel such as quarters on your car. my welder is just a flux core and only adjusts down to 80 amps is that too much power? and also where could i get a tool to create that lip that was used in installing the quarter on the gto in this thread? that seems like a very good way to get a nice smooth seal when installing. thanks for the help!


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## JoeKramer (Feb 22, 2006)

chevyboy91188 - I tried doing boy work with a flux-core welder. They burn to darn hot. You will warp your steel. See if you can convert it to gas.
I was warping everything with my Lincoln 100HD, then I got a gas kit and 25%/75% gas mix tank and now everything works perfect! I can't weld 3/16" or thicker anymore but I have a 220 Mig for that.


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## chevyboy91188 (Oct 31, 2009)

thanks. yeah i picked up a hobart hadler 140 mig so now it shouldnt be a problem its supposed to go down to 22 gage steel gotta love black friday shopping. and i have a miller bobcat that i can weld pretty much any thick metal with lol


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## HenryJ63 (Jan 11, 2010)

Hey Guys, I am considering replacing the entire floor/trunk in my 66 conv.. Using one of those complete floors with all the bracing and inner rockers. Also doing a complete trunk floor. Which one gets done first?
Also, with these complete floors, how are the inner and outer rockers connected? Spot welded or bead welded? The following are going to be replaced and I am unsure where to start.

Have new frame so basically it will be frame up, but the shell I want to replace the floors in the cabin and trunk, could patch them in but a couple of the braces need replacing so I am considering the whole units. I will need new skins and outer wheel wells also.

Any suggestions? I may rotissereie the body but everything I've read says do the structural things first.
HELP!!!!!!!


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## Too Many Projects (Nov 15, 2008)

HenryJ63 said:


> Hey Guys, I am considering replacing the entire floor/trunk in my 66 conv.. Using one of those complete floors with all the bracing and inner rockers. Also doing a complete trunk floor. Which one gets done first?
> Also, with these complete floors, how are the inner and outer rockers connected? Spot welded or bead welded? The following are going to be replaced and I am unsure where to start.
> 
> Have new frame so basically it will be frame up, but the shell I want to replace the floors in the cabin and trunk, could patch them in but a couple of the braces need replacing so I am considering the whole units. I will need new skins and outer wheel wells also.
> ...


I looked at the 1 piece with the inner rockers attached but it could be more difficult to align everything. Looking at the original sequence, the floor pan is sandwiched between the inner and outer panels. I think it will be better to replace the outer rocker, then align and attach the floor pan to it and finally the inner panel. I bought the inner and outer rockers and 1 piece floor assembly without the inner attached. I just got my rotisserie a couple days ago so I'm just getting ready to attempt this endeavor too. Once the compartment floor is in, I will order the 1 piece trunk floor and start on that.


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## HenryJ63 (Jan 11, 2010)

Mitch, is there a book or schematic that shows how these panels(floors-firewall-trunk etc) were put together at the factory? An exploded view? I believe it would be huge to see how this whole thing went together panel by panel in order to do my restoration properly.

Hank


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## Too Many Projects (Nov 15, 2008)

HenryJ63 said:


> Mitch, is there a book or schematic that shows how these panels(floors-firewall-trunk etc) were put together at the factory? An exploded view? I believe it would be huge to see how this whole thing went together panel by panel in order to do my restoration properly.
> 
> Hank


Not that I'm aware of. An assembly manual may be a help but I don't have one. I'm documenting mine as I dis-assemble it. The area under the vent/kick panel has 5 layers of metal sandwiched together and it's a bit confusing. That's were I am at today. Mine is completely rusted away but I have a clean cutoff to install. I will be taking a bunch of pics of this as I go, not only to post, but for my reference for putting it together. The relationship with the kick panel, floor and inner/outer rockers is going to be fun....:willy:


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## HenryJ63 (Jan 11, 2010)

I will wait and see your pictures then.

Thanks!


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## BMXnGTOs (Jan 26, 2009)

Any of you guys have any horror stories of floor replacement gone bad? I am sure there has to be a few. I am soon putting a trunk and quarters on my 65 GTO and needless to say, I am a touch nervous about it.


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## Too Many Projects (Nov 15, 2008)

I'll be starting on the rocker panels next week and maybe the floor. My car needs the entire floor from the firewall to the tail panel replaced. Talk about skeered, I've never done this before and don't want to screw it up either. I've already replaced one kick panel/pillar post and am going to do the other side in conjunction with the full rocker and toe panel under the pedals. Check out my on-going post in the 64-74 restoration forum.


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## BMXnGTOs (Jan 26, 2009)

Mitch, I read thru that post earlier today. After the work you did on that kickpanel area, I wouldnt think you would be scared of any of it!! That looks great. I just hope my first time looks as good as yours.


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## 66tempestGT (Nov 28, 2009)

i dont know about any horror stories. welding this stuff together is not brain surgery. however the main thing you need to do is make sure evarything is properly fitted before you start welding. when you start cutting off both quarters and the floor everything is going to get really flimsy. you want to make sure everything is square and level. squareness will pretty much be a no brainer if you replace the whole floor, but if you start sectioning things it is really important to measure and remeasure. i would put the rocker panels on some sort of jig (4 jackstands would be the most simple if you know the floor is level). actually level is not as important as making sure that the corners are on the same plane. if one of the corners ends up lower or higher than the rest, or two diagonal corners are higher or lower you will have big time problems when the time comes to hang the quarters and adjust the doors and even the trunk. clamp or screw it all together then recheck all of your height and cross measurements. i would go as far as screwing the floor in then screwing the quarter panels on. then when the doors shut properly and the trunk fits properly you can begin welding the thing. as you are welding it up stop and recheck the doors an trunk to make sure things are staying like you had them.


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## 66tempestGT (Nov 28, 2009)

i know this is rambling, but i just realized most of this thread is about putting cars together but not much about taking them apart. i see questions about what type of weld do you use (plug or seam). 99% if not all of the body is held together by spot welds, and unless you have access to a spot welder you will need to put it back together with plug welds. of course this applies to whole panels and not sectioning. seam welds are self explanitory but when you are dealing with plug welds you should take care during disassembly to make things easier when you start back together. to take the old panels off you should find all of the original spotwelds and drill them out. if you use a saw or air chisel to cut panels off you will likely damage the surfaces that you want to attatch your new panels to. drilling out the original welds will also leave you with the holes to be plug welded back up when you are ready to go back together. a unibit is the best thing i have found to drill out spot welds. i like to drill out the center with a 1/8" bit then drill farther with the unibit. some factory welds end up slightly bigger than others. i like to keep the holes as small as i can because it makes welding back together and grinding much simpler. it also leaves more metal to weld back to. if you have to however on some welds you can pop them out a little bigger with the unibit to get them loose.


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## Rukee (Feb 8, 2007)

All good stuff in this thread. I'd make it a sticky if it wasn't already!


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## DrBoeing (Apr 26, 2009)

I have not read all the replies on this thread so I will throw this out there.
I need to replace the floor pan as well as the rockers as neither can be saved.
There are sections of rocker completely gone and the only thing holding the 2 halves of this convertible together are the body mounts and what is left of the floor pan.
So here is the question!!!! Is it better to use a pan with the rockers attached or by the rockers separate and then install the pan with out rockers afterwards.


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## 66tempestGT (Nov 28, 2009)

i would use the separate pieces. even the best repro parts i ever bought didnt fit exactly. nothing like buying an assembly and then cutting it apart to get it to fit properly.


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## RacingGirlsDad1 (Sep 28, 2010)

Ok, I am new to this site, and new, getting back into Pontiacs, due to working with Porsches for the last 17 years. Ok, someone asked about the flanging tool, they are great if you want to do a lap weld, and I would recomend this if you are new to welding body panels, it helps line things up. Someone else asked about easy grind wire, and it works great, I have used it on Porsches. The nice stuff is soft wire, does not harden. Ok, I know someone will argue with me about this, but the best way to weld panels, not at a seam, is to butt weld, with gas. You use a mig to tack panels in, and go back with a gas welder, and do very short welds. The metal stays soft, and you can go back with a hammer and dolly and work the metal if you need to. The nice thing about these cars is they have frames. Doing unit body cars is a lot harder, due to the stress you can put into the metal. I did a lot of reseach before I clipped my 928. Cut it off at the firewall, and put a new front clip on. I mig welded the the butt wled, but I left some original metal there, and spot welded where it was originally spot welded. Klecos are great, but I use them to hold a piece of metal behind the two panels, only to line them up. You can make some cool clamps out of some 1/2" C channel, and a small bolt to hold the two C channel pieces on either side of the metal. By doing this, you will have to grind a small slot or arc for the bolt to go through the other side. Use very small bolts, due to having to plug weld afterwards. I am no pro at this, but I get Porsches for very cheap, due to rust, fix it, and sell them. That is how I got my 64 GTO for $400, and just got my 67 LeMans for cheap. I do not care about the rust, if you cannot get a patch panel, you just have to get creative on making a panel. The way I look at it, it if you can see the back side of it, butt weld it, if you cannot, then lap weld it. The nice the about a flange tool, is it has a hole punch on the back side of it, so once you flange one side, you go to the other panel and start popping holes in it to spot weld. I will be posting pics when I start my LeMans soon. It looks bad, back window channel is rusted out, trunk, tail light panel, and some other small spots. The goat has floor, trunk, wheel well, and other small rust spots. The one thing I have to say before you ever start on the car, is to go buy, get, or scronge some sheet metal that is the same thickness and practise. You will figure out your heat settings, and wire speed on a piece you will screw up, and you will not do it to your car. I saw a 67 Chev, where a guy tried to weld on his own quarter, and man was it warped. The guy stopped his project, and really made a mess. Do it on something that does not matter. Get an old fender from a wrecking yard that is no good, it will help. This is all just my opinion, and with mine, I will be using gas and a wire. Great post


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## dcvice1967 (Dec 12, 2010)

*Media Blasting*

Hi,

I am just starting the restoration of a 64 Tempest for my son's first car. I was given a heavy duty compressor and media blaster with media for Christmas. I believe the media is ground corn husks. 

Have any of you tried this type of media blasting yourselves? Can you describe your experiences with different types of blasting and striping? I also thought about buying a soda blaster as well aince the cleanup is supposed to be easy.

Thanks.

David


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## Too Many Projects (Nov 15, 2008)

The corn husks will remove paint but not rust. For that you need a more aggresive media. I buy white play sand in 50# bags at Menards for $4

The soda has evolved into a painters nightmare. The residue is very hard to clean off well enough for paint to adhere to the metal. Most paint shops now won't warrenty a paint job if soda has been used. The most effective way to remove the residue is to wash the car with soapy water and rinse well. Bare steel and water don't play well together and it all rusts right away....again.

I have a pot blaster that I bought to convert to soda and now don't see that happening. If you have a pressure pot blaster, get a very good moisture remover in the airline before it enters the blaster or it will eventually plug up with wet sand... The compressor runs almost constantly to keep up and it makes a lot of condensation.


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## skuzzzusmcdevildog (May 8, 2009)

sandblast and use all metal great stuff.


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## 68GTO4004Spd (Jun 19, 2008)

T.M.P. be carefull using play sand it contains silica which can lead to Silicosis that causes something similar to miner lung or black lung wear the silica cuts your lung tissue and makes it scar. I would only use a media that is made for blasting.


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## russosborne (Dec 6, 2010)

I've got somewhat of an off the wall question, but it really does relate to this subject. 
Buying larger replacement panels and things like 1 piece floors I have seen that they only ship truck freight and only to a business address.
What do you do if you don't have a business address you can use?
thanks,
Russ


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## Thor7352 (Oct 11, 2010)

rossosborne,

I'd seen that 'ships truck freight to a business only'. I have a local machine shop that will receive it for me. You may be able to ask a local machine shop, farm, auto garage, any place that will have people onsite all day and a peice of equipment or enough people to help get it off the truck. If you don't know anyone that works in such a place that would pull a favor for you, just try walking in and asking some businesses. The answer is 'no' unless you ask...

Thor
:seeya


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## GTO JUDGE (May 14, 2005)

russosborne said:


> I've got somewhat of an off the wall question, but it really does relate to this subject.
> Buying larger replacement panels and things like 1 piece floors I have seen that they only ship truck freight and only to a business address.
> What do you do if you don't have a business address you can use?
> thanks,
> Russ


Pick it up at the terminal, have it shipped to your place of employ or a friends place of employ? Just a few ideas. This happened to me when I purchased my rear end from a guy in Ohio. It was shipped to a buddy's place of employment and he drive it up in the company truck..


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## russosborne (Dec 6, 2010)

Thanks. 
Have just moved, no friends. The place I work won't even consider doing that. 
Not a big deal at the moment, for now I will be buying the kits instead of 1-piece when I need to do something. 
Don't have a pickup truck either. 
Boy, I am a mess, aren't I? 
Russ


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## Too Many Projects (Nov 15, 2008)

russosborne said:


> Thanks.
> Have just moved, no friends. The place I work won't even consider doing that.
> Not a big deal at the moment, for now I will be buying the kits instead of 1-piece when I need to do something.
> Don't have a pickup truck either.
> ...


If you are at a reasonable distance to a terminal have it held there till you can get it. Buying a one piece floor with braces attached will save a hundred hours of fitting, welding, grinding, etc. I put a one piece floor in my car and have a one piece trunk floor too. With 2 major pieces, I just replaced everything from the firewall to the tail panel...


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## SPDMETL (Apr 30, 2011)

There should be no problem :willy: sending it to a freight terminal-you just have to get it from there to your shop.


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## trip65 (Oct 11, 2011)

:cheers


Face said:


> umm.. can I just bring you my car?
> 
> No seriously, what are some good tools to start out with? I have a 110 mig welder, and a bunch of cutting tools.
> 
> ...


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## Josh.AZ.GTO (Jul 11, 2009)

russosborne said:


> I've got somewhat of an off the wall question, but it really does relate to this subject.
> Buying larger replacement panels and things like 1 piece floors I have seen that they only ship truck freight and only to a business address.
> What do you do if you don't have a business address you can use?
> thanks,
> Russ


See if what you are looking for in body panels SummitRacing.com might have as they carry various Goodmark sheet metal. You could drive down yourself from Warren to Tallmadge (Akron area). If you can rent a truck or borrow one it might save you a lot on shipping costs. An idea...


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## russosborne (Dec 6, 2010)

Thanks. 
Checked with them, and it is true, no shipping charges if I pick it up there. Yay!
Might be driving the Subaru with some panels on top of it. It is only about an hour away. Went there a bit more often while I lived in Akron. Used to pass it every week on the way to do our grocery shopping. 

I did notice one thing, they only list some of the parts for Chevelles, even though(like the trunk floor) it is the same for all A bodies of that year. so I have to look up (UGH) Chevelle parts. 
Russ


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## jetstang (Nov 5, 2008)

russosborne said:


> Chevelles, even though(like the trunk floor) it is the same for all A bodies of that year. so I have to look up (UGH) Chevelle parts.
> Russ


66/67 Chevelle pans are too short for a GTO. 

TMP- 100 hours to install a 3 piece pan?? I have one waiting install.. What goes wrong to take that long. My body guy suggested uses panel bond and clecos/screws to hold it together. No warpage, and just repair the screw holes. All new cars are panel bonded, just a thought.


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## 66goatframeoff (Nov 8, 2011)

*filler panels rear wheel wells*

looking for filler panels that connect drop down panels to the wheel wells are they available or do I have to make them great idea for a thread thanks for your time..


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## Too Many Projects (Nov 15, 2008)

jetstang said:


> 66/67 Chevelle pans are too short for a GTO.
> 
> TMP- 100 hours to install a 3 piece pan?? I have one waiting install.. What goes wrong to take that long. My body guy suggested uses panel bond and clecos/screws to hold it together. No warpage, and just repair the screw holes. All new cars are panel bonded, just a thought.


100 hours might be a slight exageration, but there's the frame and tank braces too and enough grinding to make it look good. At my pace, I'm sure I could burn 60-70 hours.



66goatframeoff said:


> looking for filler panels that connect drop down panels to the wheel wells are they available or do I have to make them great idea for a thread thanks for your time..


Quite sure you need to fabricate those. I've never seen them available.


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## 66goatframeoff (Nov 8, 2011)

Going to try and replace my frt lower window chanel and repair the front of the dash last guy used alot of filler and everything is uneven should I grind all the filler out before attemting to cut the pieces out ? never done any sheet metal work but have been wrenching for 45 years what kind of ginding wheel should I use and do I use a diffrent wheel to grind down the welds would love to be proud of this repair any help would be greatly appreciated..
Tom


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## russosborne (Dec 6, 2010)

Not sure about the other stuff, but I would want to remove all of the filler so you can see what metal is good and what is bad. 
Oh, and the filler dust will go everywhere when you grind or sand it off. Wearing a dust mask and goggles at least would be a good idea. Don't ask how I know that. 

Russ


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## gotyorgoat (Jun 19, 2011)

There is a hood scoop that was cut out of a gto on craigslist for $100. I am thinking about welding it into my Lemans hood and putting the extra $400 toward one of the other items on my wish list. What do you think the chances are that I could cut and graft this into my Lemans? It includes the insert.

My approach would be to cut out my hood 1/2" inside the outline of the scoop which is already cut wider and flange it so that I could blend it in. I would probably spotweld it at about 2" increments and use filler to smooth it out. If I screw it up then I would be stuck buying a new hood. 

Good idea or bad idea?


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## FlambeauHO (Nov 24, 2011)

Sounds good if you're good with your welder. Don't get it too hot!


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## Rukee (Feb 8, 2007)

Might you be able to weld it on the hood without cutting your hood at all?


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## ROGTO67 (Dec 11, 2012)

how hard is it to replace inner and outer rocker panel


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## Too Many Projects (Nov 15, 2008)

ROGTO67 said:


> how hard is it to replace inner and outer rocker panel


If it needs full factory style replacements, it's a major operation. If it is only bad under the door, you can section the replacement in fairly easily. The floor pan is sandwiched between the inner and outer rockers, so it does get to be some time consuming work to replicate the original look. I had pics of this in my sig link but they are all gone now because Webshots closed down...

I will be loading some of them to my new Photobucket account and can send them to you, if interested.

Start a thread in the "restoration" forum here with pics and we can see what you're up against and can advise.


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## ROGTO67 (Dec 11, 2012)

will do . I would love to see your pictures, I may also replace the whole floor not sure yet will add pictures of both and will see whats next. Thanks


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## Too Many Projects (Nov 15, 2008)

ROGTO67 said:


> will do . I would love to see your pictures, I may also replace the whole floor not sure yet will add pictures of both and will see whats next. Thanks


I'm going to be working on the car again soon and will start a new thread with pics. I have a 1 piece cabin floor and 1 piece trunk floor along with all new wheel houses and tail pan to install, so it needs a "bit" of work...


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## ljsflash (Nov 30, 2012)

I'm looking to purchase a mig welder. I found a good deal on a Millermatic 251 that's used but in like new condition. I would like something that can do more than just body panels and sheet metal but bigger isn't always better. 

Is the Millermatic 251 too much welder for thin gauge body panels/ sheet metal? Any advice is appreciated!

LJ


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## Too Many Projects (Nov 15, 2008)

You'll have to turn it all the way down for sheet metal and weld in short bursts. I have an auto 180 and it is still touchy on aftermarket 24 gauge panels. I can easily weld 1/4" steel plate for repairs on my ditch mower with it.
If it's a really good deal, you can learn to work with it but it's a bit overkill for automotive use.


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## ljsflash (Nov 30, 2012)

TMP, I was afraid of that. I'm glad I asked here. I found a MM130xp also that looks in nearly new shape. It would prob be fine for my needs. I'm always looking for a deal but I'd buy new knowing it's the best one for my needs. Just hard to figure what my needs are and what my future needs will be.
Thanks again for the generous offer for the fenders!

LJ


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## Too Many Projects (Nov 15, 2008)

The 130 will be much easier to use for panel replacement. I use a 130 at work and actually prefer it over my 180 now. The 130 will be enough for any automotive welding you encounter. It should be capable of good pentration up to 3/16. Be sure to get a gas welder and not flux core. Flux core is difficult to use on sheet metal.


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## krettger (Jan 17, 2013)

*1967 Quarter Panel Replacement.*

Hi Ranger. I am looking for the best quality quarter panels for a 67 project. Do you have any input on this? I heard Goodmark was recently sold and is not as high quality as they used to be and need quarters and outer wheel houses for this car. It was my dad's and he was the original owner and it is going to be black, so the best quality is a must. Thanks for your help.

Kirk


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## Too Many Projects (Nov 15, 2008)

krettger said:


> Hi Ranger. I am looking for the best quality quarter panels for a 67 project. Do you have any input on this? I heard Goodmark was recently sold and is not as high quality as they used to be and need quarters and outer wheel houses for this car. It was my dad's and he was the original owner and it is going to be black, so the best quality is a must. Thanks for your help.
> 
> Kirk


The outer wheel houses are available from Dynacorn part number 1506R &L. They also have complete wheel house assemblies, if you discover you need it all. 

Goodmark, Sherman, Golden Star are a few sources of a quarter skin and they are still only correct for '66 and need modification for a '67. Seems Dynacorn dropped their plans for a full quarter and don't list a skin either...


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## JeffW (Aug 30, 2009)

Hi Ranger,
Thought I might ask a question. I recently purchased a Lincoln 180 Mig welder. The welder works fine but I'm having a problem with the operator (ME!) Don't know if my old age is setting in, but I'm having a very difficult time seeing my weld. I've seen mig clamp on lights advertised, but I hesitant to buy. I don't think a battery powered light is going to help if I'm having a rough time seeing with a bright arc. So heres my question. Do they sell different lenses (Shades) for auto darkining helmets? Or do you have any other suggestions. Thanks JeffW


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## Too Many Projects (Nov 15, 2008)

JeffW said:


> Hi Ranger,
> Thought I might ask a question. I recently purchased a Lincoln 180 Mig welder. The welder works fine but I'm having a problem with the operator (ME!) Don't know if my old age is setting in, but I'm having a very difficult time seeing my weld. I've seen mig clamp on lights advertised, but I hesitant to buy. I don't think a battery powered light is going to help if I'm having a rough time seeing with a bright arc. So heres my question. Do they sell different lenses (Shades) for auto darkining helmets? Or do you have any other suggestions. Thanks JeffW


I haven't seen Ranger on here for a long time. To answer your question, it depends on your helmet manufacturer, but some do have lighter shades available. Is your helmet not equipt with a shade selector knob ? all 3 of my cheapies have a knob to change the shade from 9 to 13. I usually keep mine between 9 and 10 to see well.

I looked at the mig lights on Eastwood too but they got very poor reviews because they are are cheaply constructed. The light itself was a help but they quit working prematurely.


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## Orion88 (Apr 24, 2012)

Ok all you Body work wizards, how would you go about fixing this? any photos of what you did would be appreciated. The first three photos are the drivers side quarter panel, the last two are the passengers side.


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## HaloPlayer (Jun 22, 2013)

Years ago I worked 'plant maintenance'. We had a big ole stick welder for doing thick stuff, a mig welder for medium stuff, and a tig welder for delicate work.

So for working on a car, the biggest thing I can see myself welding is something to the frame. 

What size welder do you recommend? Links or pictures work best; I don't read so good.


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## Instg8ter (Sep 28, 2010)

Try and find someone with parts car with good metal in that location for patches, place add on here. Fab it, seen guys on here fix worse. Look up old channel repair threads. I just did a patch on an old GTO hood i picked up, came out pretty good for my first welded panel repair, glad it did not have any to do on the body of my car.

Before:



After:


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## Too Many Projects (Nov 15, 2008)

HaloPlayer said:


> Years ago I worked 'plant maintenance'. We had a big ole stick welder for doing thick stuff, a mig welder for medium stuff, and a tig welder for delicate work.
> 
> So for working on a car, the biggest thing I can see myself welding is something to the frame.
> 
> What size welder do you recommend? Links or pictures work best; I don't read so good.



A 120 volt Mig in the 135 range is all you need for automotive work. I don't recommend a cheap one, like Harbor Freight. Get a good brand, Lincoln, Miller, Hobart, etc. Be certain to get one with gauges for gas shielding, core flux doesn't work well on thin metal.


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## DavidMH47 (Dec 30, 2012)

Ranger, I have a Lincoln 125 flux core wire welder, it has a range from 30-125 amps, it this good enough for body work if I work in short bursts?


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## Rukee (Feb 8, 2007)

Flux core wire welders don't give you a very clean weld. It's okay for exhaust, but not sure if I'd use it on the body as you'll have added labor grinding and cleaning the welds. Regardless of what welder you use, use a stitching action only welding about 3/4" at a time moving around the panel to keep it from wrapping.


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## GARY SELL (Jan 20, 2014)

*70 GTO Convertible stress cracks on deck*

I have a 70 GTO convertible. It has stress cracks on the rear deck at the upper corners of the trunk lid. I am getting the car re-painted and would like to get find a permanent fix for these cracks. Gpt any suggestions? Thanks


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## BearGFR (Aug 25, 2008)

I'd start by getting the paint off in those areas and see what you find. Could be those cracks are resulting from previous repairs made with too much body filler. If they're in the "joint" between the deck filler panel and the quarter panels, then it could be that the seam sealer there has dried out and shrunk over time, thus the cracks. That area of the body isn't all that prone to flexing/twisting so I'd be surprised if those are really "stress cracks". Can you post up some photos?

Bear


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## MWRITE (Jul 8, 2014)

Ranger01 said:


> Well, Ive decided to start a thread to lend some help in the area of my expertise.
> So Im gonna start a Q&A Thread.
> 
> Just bring any and all of your fabrication and welding questions (Hell, bring your answers too!) here, and I will answer them to the best of my ability.


restoring 68 gto wondering who has best quality and fitting doors and fenders?


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## 7TGoat (Aug 3, 2014)

Ross, Isn't a butt weld less likely to rust (than a lap joint)?
Jim


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## Shaneomack (Dec 21, 2012)

Hey mate awesome thread, thanks!
I am a panel beater/body shop by trade. I have a '65 GTO that needs the rear windscreen aperture replaced.
Is there a standard template that exists for this, or would I be better to chase a second hand cut from a donor? ...Or would it be best to rebuild it according to the windscreen and windscreen mould measurements?


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## Too Many Projects (Nov 15, 2008)

Shaneomack said:


> Hey mate awesome thread, thanks!
> I am a panel beater/body shop by trade. I have a '65 GTO that needs the rear windscreen aperture replaced.
> Is there a standard template that exists for this, or would I be better to chase a second hand cut from a donor? ...Or would it be best to rebuild it according to the windscreen and windscreen mould measurements?


No repro panels made for the rear window on the 65 GTO. If it is rusted all across the bottom of the glass, you could probably section in a piece from a '65 Chevelle for most of it. The Chevelle filler panel is reproduced. The corners will be the most difficult and a donor cut-off would be ideal, but I'm thinking they aren't too common in Australia. Finding donor parts for these cars is difficult here in the states.

Starting with a piece of 20 gauge sheet cut 1.5 inches wide and bending it 90° will allow shaping the corner with shrinker/stretcher jaws and is a good way to get it repaired.


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## Shaneomack (Dec 21, 2012)

Too Many Projects said:


> No repro panels made for the rear window on the 65 GTO. If it is rusted all across the bottom of the glass, you could probably section in a piece from a '65 Chevelle for most of it. The Chevelle filler panel is reproduced. The corners will be the most difficult and a donor cut-off would be ideal, but I'm thinking they aren't too common in Australia. Finding donor parts for these cars is difficult here in the states.
> 
> Starting with a piece of 20 gauge sheet cut 1.5 inches wide and bending it 90° will allow shaping the corner with shrinker/stretcher jaws and is a good way to get it repaired.


Thanks for the help mate


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## gtolethal (Jan 11, 2016)

Question?? I just cut out the Trunk of my 69 Lemans to find more rot in the rear inner and outer wheelhouse panels. So I'm thinking about putting new whole quarter panels on the car. What kind of bracing, if any, I needed to attack this project?? 

And Where do I start??


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## ace wild (Jul 2, 2017)

iam in the process of putting new quarters on around back bumper there is tabs on the old ones that are not on new ones


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## Barry L Bidwell (Sep 17, 2017)

A 4" Harbor Freight grinder is about $15 and I can't kill it


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## Coops GTO's (Jul 30, 2021)

Great thread


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