# Raw fuel dripping out of tailpipe



## JesseLyon (Sep 13, 2020)

So I’ve been messing with the choke and air/fuel mixture to try and get the tri-power running a little better and now seem to have made things worse. I’m getting a very rough idle now and fuel (almost black) dripping out of the tailpipe. I assume I’ve just made things way too rich but also getting this with choke disconnected. Could I have something worse happening? A little worried to start it up at this point....any suggestions?


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## Lemans guy (Oct 14, 2014)

Jesse, yes don’t start it you don’t want a fire. Gasoline evaporates rather quickly so open everything in the garage and let it air out. Turn off any gas pilot lights on hot water heaters etc.

Then I would pull the carb off and investigate underneath, is it all wet with gas do you see a bad or crushed gasket? Replace the base gasket at least and square up the slot from the bottom. Turn your idle mixture screws out the recommended number of turns for your carb, 1 1/2 some are 2 1/2. Make sure all of your gas is evaporated look in the intake good before you replace the carb. Make sure your floats are set to spec and not too high.

maybe push it out of the garage have a fire extinguisher close and retry!


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## JesseLyon (Sep 13, 2020)

Lemans guy said:


> Jesse, yes don’t start it you don’t want a fire. Gasoline evaporates rather quickly so open everything in the garage and let it air out. Turn off any gas pilot lights on hot water heaters etc.
> 
> Then I would pull the carb off and investigate underneath, is it all wet with gas do you see a bad or crushed gasket? Replace the base gasket at least and square up the slot from the bottom. Turn your idle mixture screws out the recommended number of turns for your carb, 1 1/2 some are 2 1/2. Make sure all of your gas is evaporated look in the intake good before you replace the carb. Make sure your floats are set to spec and not too high.
> 
> maybe push it out of the garage have a fire extinguisher close and retry!


unfortunately I live in an apt building and not really supposed to be working on my car in our parkade. It’s also three flights underground, so I can’t push it outside (man I miss my house/garage). I’ll give it a day and then try to lean it out and will try again.

Carb mix screws all the way in is the most lean setting, correct?


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## Baaad65 (Aug 29, 2019)

Are you sure it's fuel and not water, the exhaust will accumulate soot then if it's humid the moisture will drag the soot out, happens alot on mine but if you smell fuel that's not good...something is stuck...better check your insurance.


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## Lemans guy (Oct 14, 2014)

Yes it will rapidly evaporate, of course depends on amount,….in is lean on most carbs….out gives more fuel/air therefore richer…..too high a float setting or too much fuel pressure can overrun you needle and seats as well. Just go slow yo will have to lightly seat the mixture screws and then turn out, see if it will start .


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## JesseLyon (Sep 13, 2020)

Baaad65 said:


> Are you sure it's fuel and not water, the exhaust will accumulate soot then if it's humid the moisture will drag the soot out, happens alot on mine but if you smell fuel that's not good...something is stuck...better check your insurance.


Definitely fuel. I think adding the choke back in after it was disconnected and not working for a while has made it too rich. Need to try and get it back to stock setting again.


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## integrity6987 (May 10, 2017)

next step - buy a fire extinguisher!


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## JesseLyon (Sep 13, 2020)

integrity6987 said:


> next step - buy a fire extinguisher!


Haha! Always have one of those available and close by  Still cant figure out what this issue is, might even be head gasket its running so rough now. Time to tear everything apart again...😭


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## Lemans guy (Oct 14, 2014)

Use Halotron clean agent fire extinguisher, like an H3, irt will cost more up front but a lot less if you have a fire. The ABC chemical extinguisher will destroy lots of electricical wiring, the Halotron only removes oxygen to extinguish the fire. So you only have fire damage, and no additional chemical damage.

Good idea not to make things worse when problems happen!


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## BLK69JUDGE (Jun 10, 2010)

Halotron x2 

gas ???? it should have blown your mufflers wide open by now .....

your sure its not condensation ????

what do your spark plugs look like ???

time for 2 oil changes if its gas ....

or youlle have a really flat cam 

just my 3 cents worth


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## JesseLyon (Sep 13, 2020)

BLK69JUDGE said:


> Halotron x2
> 
> gas ???? it should have blown your mufflers wide open by now .....
> 
> ...


Thx for the Halotron insight, will be picking one of those up. I think the fire extingusher I have in the car is 15+ years old anyway, so its possible it dosent even work anymore.

Im now starting to see fuel dripping out of the end carb closest to the firewall. Must be a stuck float or something, will be pulling it apart this weekend to see whats going on.


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## mcguiremcd (May 23, 2012)

Do not start car with fuel leaking near distributor. Ask me how I know. Look at Element before ordering Halotron. Element works great, again ask me how I know.


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## JesseLyon (Sep 13, 2020)

Have replaced the float and have the car running again.

Issue now is, although it seems to be idling fine, it runs very rough at lower rpm/part throttle. When I open it up it smooths out quite a bit. We also added the pheonlic spacers from tripower.com to avoid the heat sink issues. Does anyone think this could affect the part throttle issues? Or does this point to something else going on. Its happening even if I disengage the outer carb rod so they arnt opening up, seems to be isolated the center carb only.


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## Baaad65 (Aug 29, 2019)

That's scary, after changing the oil do you have to fog the cylinders as to not score them, also should pull the plugs and let all the vapors evaporate so one doesn't end up in your forehead 👍


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## JesseLyon (Sep 13, 2020)

Wfat


Baaad65 said:


> That's scary, after changing the oil do you have to fog the cylinders as to not score them, also should pull the plugs and let all the vapors evaporate so one doesn't end up in your forehead 👍


What do you mean by fog the cylinders? I’ve been driving it already. Could this cause significant engine damage?

update: google is my friend . did not fog the cylinders after. Hopefully this didn’t cause major damage.


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## Baaad65 (Aug 29, 2019)

Oh I didn't know you drove it, thought the fuel would've washed the oil off the cylinders then when you start it up the rings would score the cylinders maybe, fogging spray is an oil to use if you're storing or haven't started an engine for a while, when I bought my motor in '18 it hadn't been run since '14 so I fogged the cylinders when I got it and then hand cranked it over because I wasn't starting it for another 4 months.


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## Lemans guy (Oct 14, 2014)

Rough at part throttle could be a few things, you may need to adjust the center carb mixture screws again. That high float on the back carb may have messed you up when initially setting idle. I would regroup and rest idle to spec.

rough on part throttle could be too rich or too lean, that you have to discover. Remember that the idle circuit controlled by the mixture screws runs the car until around 2500 Rpm. So if part throttle roughness is below 2500work with the mixture screws first. Above 2500 you are into the main jets, so if the roughness is there then you may need a jet change.

Running a vacumn gauge in the cab is always very helpful in diagnosing these issues. It is an easy hookup, no electrical needed unless you want night illumination. Just a vac hose to the gauge, or rig a temp one. When it is running rough see what the vac gauge is doing…

may help you to figure it out. But you can try a little leaner on the mixture screws and a little richer and see if you get improvement either way.

Don’t know how your timing is set, can effect things too, as 9 out of 10 carb problems are usually timing problems. Make sure timing is right, then set up the carb. Too many Hot Rodders do it the other way.Adjust the carb twenty times, then look at timing.

It is something small, stay with it. And make sure you vac hoses are rebooked up and phenolic spacersis tight without vac leaks, as they can cause rough spots as well.


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## JesseLyon (Sep 13, 2020)

Thav


Lemans guy said:


> Rough at part throttle could be a few things, you may need to adjust the center carb mixture screws again. That high float on the back carb may have messed you up when initially setting idle. I would regroup and rest idle to spec.
> 
> rough on part throttle could be too rich or too lean, that you have to discover. Remember that the idle circuit controlled by the mixture screws runs the car until around 2500 Rpm. So if part throttle roughness is below 2500work with the mixture screws first. Above 2500 you are into the main jets, so if the roughness is there then you may need a jet change.
> 
> ...


Thanks for the tips! I’ve been “screwing” with the idle mix screws all day without much change. Really smooths out above 2500rpm though so must be the center carb screws. I just read that those “mix” screws on a tripower are really just fuel pressure though and the air/fuel is controlled by the jets. Is that true? In that case, it seems like maybe I need to rejet. Thing is, it was running pretty good before I replaced the rear carb float. So not sure..too many things to consider..,

going to regroup and check timing and vacuum again tomorrow.


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## Lemans guy (Oct 14, 2014)

The carbs are just three two barrel Rochester's, it idles off the center carb. I am not a Tri-power expert so someone running them can chime in, but if you are smooth over 2500 Rpm sounds like your main jets are ok.

Mixture screws provide a combination of air and fuel, the idle air bleeds provide the air and the the idle circuit up to 2500 Rpm’s or so is in control.

When your mixture screws have no effect on idling you might have the Transfer slot open too much on the center carb. Or even throttle plates leaking air in on the out side two carbs. this could lean out the mixture too much and cause rough running, kind of like a vacumn leak.

Make sure the throttle plates for the two outside carbs are not “Moving” or opening under light throttle, may need to adjust them. They should not move until demand is high and throttle plate open more.

Your timing should not have changed, see what vacumn is doing at idle and
When the problem occurs.


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## JesseLyon (Sep 13, 2020)

Lemans guy said:


> The carbs are just three two barrel Rochester's, it idles off the center carb. I am not a Tri-power expert so someone running them can chime in, but if you are smooth over 2500 Rpm sounds like your main jets are ok.
> 
> Mixture screws provide a combination of air and fuel, the idle air bleeds provide the air and the the idle circuit up to 2500 Rpm’s or so is in control.
> 
> ...


Timing was set to about 14 degrees at idle so adjusted to 10 as per some of the other posts. Seems to run about the same. Rough/surging/bogging at part throttle but smooth and lots of power at WOT.

Vacuum gauge looks good. Sitting around 17 at idle.

I guess next step is to check all float levels


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## Baaad65 (Aug 29, 2019)

Base seems a little low mines at 13, it doesn't sound like timing something is up with the carb in the idle circuit my guess.


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## Lemans guy (Oct 14, 2014)

Make sure that your vacumn advance can is not dithering in and out, at part throttle…..causing surging, bogging and goes away once throttle goes down and vacumn drops out.

unhook and plug the vac advance and take a test drive, see if it still surges. If it does not you need a new and right advance can.

But still could be your fuel air delivery, this is just a test step during diagnosing.


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## JesseLyon (Sep 13, 2020)

Lemans guy said:


> Make sure that your vacumn advance can is not dithering in and out, at part throttle…..causing surging, bogging and goes away once throttle goes down and vacumn drops out.
> 
> unhook and plug the vac advance and take a test drive, see if it still surges. If it does not you need a new and right advance can.
> 
> But still could be your fuel air delivery, this is just a test step during diagnosing.


I’m running an MSD, so no vacuum advance.


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## PontiacJim (Dec 29, 2012)

JesseLyon said:


> I’m running an MSD, so no vacuum advance.



You have been having problems with the tri-power since you installed it. Why so many issues when according to you, "The carbs and intake were purchased used on Craigslist and *I had them all rebuilt by a reputable specialist.* *He said they were all in fine shape, and that I "shouldnt have any problems"*. 

I guess your "specialist" isn't much of a specialist. Why not give him a call and let him know your issues. Since he rebuilt them, he may know exactly what you need to do to check/fix the problem.

If me, I would get rid of the tri-power and put your other carb/manifold back on before the car catches fire and burns to the ground. Maybe send him back the carbs so he can re-rebuild them and send you something that actually works. Some of these guys make claims and are not what that claim.

If you keep the tripower, I would suggest starting from scratch and either sending them out to a "real" specialist or pulling them down yourself and doing a rebuild so you know exactly what is going into each carb. Again, hate to see a nice car burn down to the ground.


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## JesseLyon (Sep 13, 2020)

PontiacJim said:


> You have been having problems with the tri-power since you installed it. Why so many issues when according to you, "The carbs and intake were purchased used on Craigslist and *I had them all rebuilt by a reputable specialist.* *He said they were all in fine shape, and that I "shouldnt have any problems"*.
> 
> I guess your "specialist" isn't much of a specialist. Why not give him a call and let him know your issues. Since he rebuilt them, he may know exactly what you need to do to check/fix the problem.
> 
> ...


very good points Jim. I actually did call him last week and he said the floats tested fine when he set it up, but dosent mean that something couldn’t have gone wrong after installing and running it for a while. I think he/we should have just installed all new floats. For $15 each, it’s not breaking the bank.

I’ve managed to get the car running pretty good over the weekend. The outer carb linkage was keeping the front carb open just slightly creating some vacuum issues.This seems to have helped quite a bit as well as replacing the defective float.

going to give it one more try before reverting to the 4bbl. The tripower is just too cool to give up on! (And If I don’t burn the car to the ground, at least I’m learning something on the way)


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## JesseLyon (Sep 13, 2020)

PontiacJim said:


> You have been having problems with the tri-power since you installed it. Why so many issues when according to you, "The carbs and intake were purchased used on Craigslist and *I had them all rebuilt by a reputable specialist.* *He said they were all in fine shape, and that I "shouldnt have any problems"*.
> 
> I guess your "specialist" isn't much of a specialist. Why not give him a call and let him know your issues. Since he rebuilt them, he may know exactly what you need to do to check/fix the problem.
> 
> ...


brake booster and M/C started leaking. Luckily still under warranty as I just purchased last month, so getting those replaced no charge (actually got money back due to sale on now!)


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## 67ventwindow (Mar 3, 2020)

Just out of curiosity did you get a brass float or a composite. I heard the brass ones are scarce.


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## PontiacJim (Dec 29, 2012)

JesseLyon said:


> very good points Jim. I actually did call him last week and he said the floats tested fine when he set it up, but dosent mean that something couldn’t have gone wrong after installing and running it for a while. I think he/we should have just installed all new floats. For $15 each, it’s not breaking the bank.
> 
> I’ve managed to get the car running pretty good over the weekend. The outer carb linkage was keeping the front carb open just slightly creating some vacuum issues.This seems to have helped quite a bit as well as replacing the defective float.
> 
> going to give it one more try before reverting to the 4bbl. The tripower is just too cool to give up on! (And If I don’t burn the car to the ground, at least I’m learning something on the way)



Gotta love the look of the tri-power and I would have to have one if a 1965-66 GTO. Just with all your troubles, it might be a good winter project to pull them down yourself and go through them again.


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## JesseLyon (Sep 13, 2020)

67ventwindow said:


> Just out of curiosity did you get a brass float or a composite. I heard the brass ones are scarce.


brass. Easy to find at least up here. $15/each.


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## JesseLyon (Sep 13, 2020)

PontiacJim said:


> Gotta love the look of the tri-power and I would have to have one if a 1965-66 GTO. Just with all your troubles, it might be a good winter project to pull them down yourself and go through them again.


im going to at least replace all the floats. Shoulda done that first time around.


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## JesseLyon (Sep 13, 2020)

She still looks good on the surface though...


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## 67ventwindow (Mar 3, 2020)

JesseLyon said:


> I’ve managed to get the car running pretty good over the weekend. The outer carb linkage was keeping the front carb open just slightly creating some vacuum issues.This seems to have helped quite a bit as well as replacing the defective float.


Was the linkage worn or did it just get bound up? I assume we are speaking of the long rod connecting the front and rear. I have been looking for a tripower setup, but will have to do the over haul myself still have too many kids still in school, Long rods dont take much to throw them off. I have just neen digging around in anything tri power. Be fore one lands on my door step.


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## JesseLyon (Sep 13, 2020)

67ventwindow said:


> Was the linkage worn or did it just get bound up? I assume we are speaking of the long rod connecting the front and rear. I have been looking for a tripower setup, but will have to do the over haul myself still have too many kids still in school, Long rods dont take much to throw them off. I have just neen digging around in anything tri power. Be fore one lands on my door step.


correct, front/rear linkage on passenger side. I just had to lengthen it by about 1/8” by straightening the rod ever so slightly so that it wasent holding the front carb open.

car idling well now and lots of power at WOT, something just a bit off at part throttle/cruise with it hesitating/surging.

Always something to keep me busy and broke


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## Lemans guy (Oct 14, 2014)

You are also running with no vac advance, a race car set up…..proper timing is necessary too.

you can run without having hesitation on a race car setup but properly setup gives you 10 more degrees of timing…..for idle and light throttle operations, yours will not be optimal under those conditions for a street car.


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## JesseLyon (Sep 13, 2020)

Lemans guy said:


> You are also running with no vac advance, a race car set up…..proper timing is necessary too.
> 
> you can run without having hesitation on a race car setup but properly setup gives you 10 more degrees of timing…..for idle and light throttle operations, yours will not be optimal under those conditions for a street car.


Im not sure I totally follow you...I assumed the MSD box handles the advance electronically. I am going to contact MSD to see what the proper timing should be with my setup/


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## An0maly_76 (Dec 25, 2021)

Correct me if I'm wrong, but on these tri-powers, only the center carb is supposed to be active below a certain amount of throttle. If that is the case, methinks your issue is with the center carb, or possibly the fore and aft units are pushing fuel when they shouldn't be. Just a thought to help the process of elimination.


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## PontiacJim (Dec 29, 2012)

An0maly_76 said:


> Correct me if I'm wrong, but on these tri-powers, only the center carb is supposed to be active below a certain amount of throttle. If that is the case, methinks your issue is with the center carb, or possibly the fore and aft units are pushing fuel when they shouldn't be. Just a thought to help the process of elimination.



Problem solved in another post. This is what happens when you post 2 different posts on the same problem.









Tri-power RPM returns very slowly when off...


Just getting my fresh tripower setup running this weekend for the first time since swapping from 4bbl. Its finally running pretty well, lots of power, idles ok'ish (still tweaking the air/fuel mix). Got the overheating issue solved by removing the thermostat (thanks lust4speed for the tips in...




www.gtoforum.com


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## JesseLyon (Sep 13, 2020)

PontiacJim said:


> Problem solved in another post. This is what happens when you post 2 different posts on the same problem.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Yep, apologies for the multiple posts, problem(s) solved. It was in fact a bunch of different issues, but in the end, all related. 

Merry Christmas! 🎄 🚗 🍻


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