# Resistrance wire Location 65 GTO



## the65gto (Oct 9, 2008)

Trying to figure out where exactly the resistance wire is for the coil. Updated ignition does not use the lowered voltage and I want to remove it or bypass it.:willy:

Assumptions:
Ign#2 is the start position, applying full 12 V to the coil. Start Switch - Yellow wire to Bulk Con, the Blk sgl yel stripe to coil splice then Blk sgl pink to + terminal of coil.

Ign#1 is the normal run position, applying 9.6V to the coil. Starter Switch - Pink to Bulk Con, White-Orange to coil splice and then Blk sgl pink to + term of coil. 

Anybody know if it is the (Ign#1) Pink wire to Bulk Con or Wht-Org wire to coil splice is the resistance wire???



Any guess on where the coil splice might be located??

Photo clipped from my original manual, sort of yella with a touch of grease ;o)


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## BearGFR (Aug 25, 2008)

Yep, I had the same problem on my 69 when I converted it to HEI. I wish I could take credit for this idea, but actually I stole it from someone else on here 

What I wound up doing was taking the original feed to the primary side of the coil, and using it instead to trigger a headlight relay that routed power directly from the battery through a fuse to the HEI. It's a simple solution, you don't have to chase down the resistance wire (and it stays intact in case you ever decide to convert back) - plus if you put the relay in an accessible but not too obvious location, you can disable the whole ignition by pulling a wire off it - sort of a poor man's theft deterrent system.

Bear


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## 05GTO (Oct 6, 2004)

White-orange-purple is the resistor wire, here is a better diagram;


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## the65gto (Oct 9, 2008)

Great Thanks guys. I could not resist and started to unravel the 47 yr old black electrical tape. What a gooey mess. Found the wire and the splice. The resistance wire is different from the others in the appearance, it looks like a cross hatched sleeve on the outside and connects to the bottom right hand connector on my diagram or to pin #1 on the 05gto diagram. The splice was about midway from the bulk connector to the coil, approximately under the voltage regulator. It was a non insulated crimp, not soldered. Measured it from the bulk head connector to the + terminal of coil and it was 2.4 ohms. Figured that the coil must draw 1 amp to drop 2.4 volts (12-9.6) over 2.4 ohms. I think in Bears suggestion, the headlamp relay will be drawing less than one amp and therefore volts will be closer to 12v keeping the relay pulled in with confidence. 

I do not know if anyone makes a pin extractor to remove that #1 pin and solder a straight wire (16ga)?? up to the splice. Something tells me to leave it alone:lol: Incidently, removing both bulk head connectors,firewall side, they were sure full of gunk, cleaned them out and will let them dry overnight.


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