# Control Arm Feedback



## 66CHEEVO (Jan 24, 2021)

Good morning everyone and HAPPY FRIDAY!!!

I'm working on ordering some front control arms for my 66 GTO. I'm keeping the stock ride height which will include a front disc brake conversion. I was shopping the market as well as paging through some of our older forums on this topic. The consensus is to stay away from the cheaper products as they tend to use ball joints that tend to be the weak link or not on par with the more expensive stuff. I'd love to drop $1500 - $2000 on the best possible product for the piece of mind; however my budget wont allow this. The other issue is there's so many products out there which make it tougher in making the decision. I'd hate to settle for something in the middle to only find out they too use non-desirable ball joints.

I've heard good stuff about Global West from some of our members. Even there price point is slightly over my budget. I'm now thinking about just going with the stock stamped steel arms. OPGI has some sales going on on their Restoparts Arms right now and thinking about pulling the trigger. Does anyone have any feedback on these?

The other option I was leaning towards was BMR tubular arms. I went with their Tubular Arms on the rear and was pleased with their product but haven't driven the car yet, so the ultimate test has yet to be done. 

If anyone has some feedback or suggestions on some control arms within the $800 range I'd love to hear it.

As always I appreciate everyone's feedback. 

Thank you 

https://www.opgi.com/chassis-suspen...-1964-72-a-body-complete-pair-ch26660-pr.html 


















BMR Suspension AA033H BMR Suspension A-Arms | Summit Racing


Free Shipping - BMR Suspension A-Arms with qualifying orders of $99. Shop Control Arms at Summit Racing.




www.summitracing.com


----------



## goat671 (Apr 13, 2019)

Why would you spend 400.00 on replacement Control Arms? Why not just replace the bushings and ball joints in yours?


----------



## O52 (Jan 27, 2019)

The better tubular arms are modified from stock settings to take advantage of improved suspension settings. The difference in handling is like night and day. If you have just a cruiser and not interested in improved handling, then the stock arms will work fine. Even with the stock arms you can add tall upper ball joints for slightly better than stock handling


----------



## ylwgto (Oct 27, 2009)

Agree with what others have said. Reuse stock arms with new bushings and ball joints if you are after stock handling and ride.

if going tubular (which makes a massive difference in handling), there are inexpensive options. As you said, the issues with overseas control arms are the expendable parts (ball joints in particular). The actual arms can be very high quality.

I lowered my car 1” and used Amazon tubular front control arms that are essentially copies of the GW arms. I replaced the ball joints they came with, which were scary, and I am VERY pleased.


----------



## armyadarkness (Dec 7, 2020)

Ed hit the nail on the head.

I've done many threads about Global West. Doug, the owner, is a GTO owner and racer. All made in the USA, using the best parts, and when you call them, they answer the phone. Yes the parts were designed for and tested on a GTO, and the corrections to geometry were built in.

I've had Vettes, BMW's, Trans Ams, Lexus... My 67 GTO, with it's tall stance and 235/60/15 tires, handles with the best of them.

I've now done several cars using GW, and their upper and lowers, in conjunction with thier frame supports, UMI coils, and Bilsteins, has made it so that I can pitch this car into corners at highway speeds, drift, and maintain. Even with the posi throwing the car all over the road.

As ED said, what are you going to do with the car? If you're going to drive it a lot, and like me... like an idiot, then it's worth the extra money. I suspect that UMI might be a little cheaper and give similar results?

But *MOST IMPORTANTLY,* Prior to my relationship with Global West, I bought a "pro kit" from a company called Anderson Restorations, and it was 100%, pure shit. Nothing was hardened, it was inferior castings, and the nuts and bolts looked like what was left over after you were done building a Walmart video cassette rack.

During my extensive research for new arms, I noticed that a lot of the aftermarket arm companies were using those Anderson Restoration/ Bonzai Me Love You Long Time ball joints and hardware. So... some time last year, we all here seemed to agree that the budget aftermarket arms themselves, were okay, but the hardware sucked. In this instance, one can save a lot of money by buying the cheap arms and then getting the ball joints and hardware from NAPA.

I believe it was @67ventwindow or @ylwgto who was the guinea pig?

This is definitely something that I will be covering in the FAQ section, so you're asking at a great time.









Advice on drop spindles vs. lowering springs


About to embark on a 4 wheel disc upgrade on my 66. I just redid the rear springs (stock), shocks (kyb semi firm) and upgraded to tubular upper and lower control arms with a swaybar. It is a bit stiff and a bit taller than I'd like, which I hope will calm down, but a huge improvement over my...




www.gtoforum.com


----------



## Jim K (Nov 17, 2020)

X2 to what everyone else has said. If staying with stock, just change the ball joints and bushings. Might upgrade the bushings to del-rin or another poly type bushing for improved road response unless you are after a completely stock type ride and feel.
Tubular arms can be pricey but deliver so much more in terms of handling response. I went with Detroit Speed for mine but several companies like global west, Hotchkis, UMI and others make a good product for a little less.


----------



## 66CHEEVO (Jan 24, 2021)

Thank you everyone for the feedback. The reason for not going with my existing control arms is due to them looking like they been beat to hell and one of them is possibly bent. I don't own a press and figured that by the time I acquired all the bushings, ball joints and paid someone to press them on it would be that much of a savings. 

On that note, would the bushings need to be installed with a press or would a mallet do the trick. I remember the control arms on my 56 Chevy were a pain in the @ss. 

I plan on making this Goat my daily driver and I due tend to abuse my vehicles. On that note I should look for a good set of tubular arms. I'll just have to tell my wife and kids we are eating Cup O Noodles for the next few weeks 

Anyhow, you guys are the greatest. Thanks again


----------



## Noangelbuddy (Dec 6, 2017)

66CHEEVO said:


> Thank you everyone for the feedback. The reason for not going with my existing control arms is due to them looking like they been beat to hell and one of them is possibly bent. I don't own a press and figured that by the time I acquired all the bushings, ball joints and paid someone to press them on it would be that much of a savings.
> 
> 
> On that note, would the bushings need to be installed with a press or would a mallet do the trick. I remember the control arms on my 56 Chevy were a pain in the @ss.
> ...


I bought a cheap 12 ton Harbor Freight shop press, it works great. It’s essentially a frame with a hydraulic jack. They sell a 6 ton bench version for around $80 bucks. Not sure how well the bench version works, but it’s got to be superior to a mallet. The moment the bushing goes in crooked from a mallet whack, you are hosed.


----------



## LATECH (Jul 18, 2018)

Carry them to a shop and have ball joints and bushings pressed in.Lots cheaper than pretty much any other alternative


----------



## AZTempest (Jun 11, 2019)

I drill the rubber out then use a chisel to remove. They are very weak without the rubber. I then use mallet with a socket to tap them in. Done 3 cars this way and never an issue.


----------



## armyadarkness (Dec 7, 2020)

66CHEEVO said:


> Thank you everyone for the feedback. The reason for not going with my existing control arms is due to them looking like they been beat to hell and one of them is possibly bent. I don't own a press and figured that by the time I acquired all the bushings, ball joints and paid someone to press them on it would be that much of a savings.


There is a ton of wisdom in this post! Always know your limitations! 

Nothing wrong with using your credit card to solve a problem.


----------



## armyadarkness (Dec 7, 2020)

66CHEEVO said:


> I plan on making this Goat my daily driver and I due tend to abuse my vehicles. On that note I should look for a good set of tubular arms. I'll just have to tell my wife and kids we are eating Cup O Noodles for the next few weeks


Even more wisdom here! Build it for its intended use!


----------



## armyadarkness (Dec 7, 2020)

Noangelbuddy said:


> The moment the bushing goes in crooked from a mallet whack, you are hosed.


I bought the Harbor Fright model to redo my 70 Vette... but like the OP, my arms werent great and the job just went wrong. 

After 35 years of working on cars and bikes, being a mchinest/ engineer, and reading every thread on the subject, the job beat me down in every way and wouldve yeilded an shitty unsafe car. 

Of course, I was also using that Anderson Restorations garbage. That's how I became affiliated with Global West.


----------



## 67lemans (Oct 30, 2009)

armyadarkness said:


> I noticed that a lot of the aftermarket arm companies were using those Anderson Restoration/ Bonzai Me Love You Long Time ball joints and hardware.
> 
> LOL'd while everyone in the house was still sleeping!


----------



## solar68 (Nov 11, 2021)

armyadarkness said:


> Ed hit the nail on the head.
> 
> I've done many threads about Global West. Doug, the owner, is a GTO owner and racer. All made in the USA, using the best parts, and when you call them, they answer the phone. Yes the parts were designed for and tested on a GTO, and the corrections to geometry were built in.
> 
> ...



Question:

I have stock arms with QA1 sway bars and Bilstiens, i put new MOOG ball joints, endlinks and all bushing are new. Will arms make a big difference for me?


----------



## armyadarkness (Dec 7, 2020)

solar68 said:


> Question:
> 
> I have stock arms with QA1 sway bars and Bilstiens, i put new MOOG ball joints, endlinks and all bushing are new. Will arms make a big difference for me?


I think an accurate assessment would be to say that you did a "Stage 1" upgrade. Your modifications addressed the common weak points in the system, and to a skilled driver, you can probably notice them.

Upgrading the arms would be the upper end of stage 2. They would remove the signifigant flex that OEM arms have, while at the same time correcting geometry and improving handling and feedback.

I wouldnt think twice about entering my car in a road race, but prior to the Global West setup, I wouldve voted a 67 GTO "most likely to end up in the grass on turn one".

It's crazy how well this thing handles, and more importantly, how much easier it is to control.


----------



## O52 (Jan 27, 2019)

In the meantime install 1/2" tall upper ball joints. They can be replaced easily without removal of the stock upper arm and they improve your cornering ability. 
UMI has them.


----------



## armyadarkness (Dec 7, 2020)

O52 said:


> In the meantime install 1/2" tall upper ball joints. They can be replaced easily without removal of the stock upper arm and they improve your cornering ability.
> UMI has them.


Should I add that to the CA thread? Never knew they existed. Are they a big help?


----------



## O52 (Jan 27, 2019)

From the UMI website.

_Proforged tall ball joints are built with a 0.50in longer ball stud to achieve an optimal negative camber curve – dramatically improving your handling. Forged SAE4140 chromoly steel studs are enclosed in forged SAE1045 housings, heat treated for strength and durability, and every fit surface is CNC machined for precision fit and finish. Each unit is sealed with specially-designed CR-rubber boots for ultimate durability._

They also sell a .9" joint for upper and lower. Not recommended for stock arms due to binding issues.
The tall ball joints extend the spindle length, improving the camber geometry allowing the tire to stay flat when cornering.






Ball Joints Archives - UMI Performance Inc.







www.umiperformance.com


----------



## armyadarkness (Dec 7, 2020)

I never followed "why" the GW stuff was better or how it improved the handling. That's super cool! I love the UMI stuff that Ive used.

Thanks Ed!


----------



## O52 (Jan 27, 2019)

UMI upper arm with .5" tall ball joint, stock lower arm with Moog BJ, 70 El Camino disc brakes


















Stock upper arm with .5" tall ball joint, 68 GTO drum brakes


----------



## solar68 (Nov 11, 2021)

Awesome- I’m going to order some!, i did install upper and lower billet arms for a solid launch too


----------



## armyadarkness (Dec 7, 2020)

O52 said:


> UMI upper arm with .5" tall ball joint, stock lower arm with Moog BJ, 70 El Camino disc brakes
> 
> View attachment 155514
> View attachment 155515
> ...


I need en ElCamino!


----------



## O52 (Jan 27, 2019)

I wish I still had mine. But not enough garage space


----------



## O52 (Jan 27, 2019)

A little trick is to put a section of heater hose or something similar, over the exposed ball joint stem.


----------



## Bopper (24 d ago)

Ok, been reading posts here for a while. Finally decided I need to be all in and joined. A lot of interesting posts here in the suspension realm. 
I recently tried to get an alignment on my 70 and they told me the bushings were bad in lower drivers side. I have had the car since 89' Front end is stock.( Ok, I swapped the 70 drums with 70 disk brakes from a lemans) Actually did all this work back in like 1991 or so. I also, noticed the rear springs have spacers in between a couple of the coils. 
So, I was tossed between a stock rebuild or upgrading. Back in the day I had followed columns and used the old H-O Racing info and converted my 64 to disk brakes using 77 Firebird/Camaro parts and it worked great. 
Don't have the budget to go crazy with upgrades. 
Thoughts are:
replacing lower bushings and ball joints
Either tubular upper arms or the .5 longer ball joint (still undecided as what would be best for me)
new springs and shocks all around. 
Basically, my question is for upper, what are pros/cons of the tubular vs. the .5 longer ball joint?
Looks like Global West has a good rep and I appreciate the feedback I have seen regarding them. I see Ames Perfomance carries them too.
I do beat on my vehicles and drive them dirty and dusty.
and with the EFI I'm sporting it is much more drivable and driving it more than ever.
Thanks in advance for any feedback on my question regarding upper control arm vs just longer ball joint query.


----------



## O52 (Jan 27, 2019)

You can order the tubulars with the tall ball joint for a few dollars more. Quality tubulars from UMI or Global West will already have optimal settings for modern alignments, adding a .5 or .9 inch upper ball joint is icing on the cake. 









1964-1972 GM A-Body Tubular Upper A-Arms, 1/2" Taller Ball Joints - UMI Performance Inc.


Improve handling and make your classic A-Body feel like a modern day muscle car by combining our popular P/N 4033




www.umiperformance.com





I have kept the suspension on my 68 GTO mostly stock. But I did add .5" upper ball joints to the factory upper arms and used Proforged lower BJs. Moog offset shafts and bushings. Front 1 1/8" and rear 7/8" bars from a 70 GTO. NOS GM bushings for the rear control arms. UMI Roto-Joints for the rear axle on the advice of my axle guy. 
If using factory control arms carefully inspect the areas around the ball joint mounting for cracks especially the lowers. 






Ball Joints Archives - UMI Performance Inc.







www.umiperformance.com













1965-1972 GM A-Body UMI Roto-Joint Rear End Housing Replacement Bushings - UMI Performance Inc.


The UMI P/N 2999 adds the finishing touch to allow full articulation of the GM 4-link rear suspension. By using




www.umiperformance.com





My 70 El Camino had UMI upper arms with 1/2" tall BJs with 1 1/4" front and 1" rear bars with a chassis stiffener. UMI adjustable rear upper arms and factory lower arms front and rear. New springs lowered the car about 1 1/2 inches. Handled very well

KYB shocks at one time were an affordable choice but their quality has slipped over the last few years with numerous complaints of leaking after a short period of use. Now it seems that Bilsteins have taken their place as the shock of choice.


----------



## armyadarkness (Dec 7, 2020)

Bopper said:


> Looks like Global West has a good rep and I appreciate the feedback I have seen regarding them. I see Ames Perfomance carries them too.
> I do beat on my vehicles and drive them dirty and dusty.


The owner of Global West is a GTO guy. He races them and his parts were designed and tested on a 65 GTO. If they're in your budget, you cant go wrong.

I drive my 67 like a scalded cat, and it just loves it, now with the GW stuff.


----------



## Bopper (24 d ago)

armyadarkness said:


> The owner of Global West is a GTO guy. He races them and his parts were designed and tested on a 65 GTO. If they're in your budget, you cant go wrong.
> 
> I drive my 67 like a scalded cat, and it just loves it, now with the GW stuff.


Thanks Ed and Thanks AaD for replies. 
Supposed my curiosity was what pros/cons of using the taller ball joints or the tubular uppers were?
Guess that is where I am stuck on. the bushings, springs, shocks I feel comfortable ordering, it was the uppers is where I was looking for advice.


----------



## armyadarkness (Dec 7, 2020)

Bopper said:


> Thanks Ed and Thanks AaD for replies.
> Supposed my curiosity was what pros/cons of using the taller ball joints or the tubular uppers were?
> Guess that is where I am stuck on. the bushings, springs, shocks I feel comfortable ordering, it was the uppers is where I was looking for advice.


Off the bat, if your car is 55 and has the original CA bushings, then they likely need replacing. In that case, tubular arms are easier/ faster.

If you drive hard and are looking to maximize control, tubular arms will eliminate a lot of slop and flex, and they'll improve feedback.

If you're looking to maintain the oem look, new bushings and balljoints would be better.

If cost is a factor, new bushings and balljoints would be better.


----------



## Bopper (24 d ago)

Off the bat, if your car is 55 and has the original CA bushings, then they likely need replacing. In that case, tubular arms are easier/ faster.
I did replace with original back around 1991.Still, I get the meaning. 

If you drive hard and are looking to maximize control, tubular arms will eliminate a lot of slop and flex, and they'll improve feedback.

If you're looking to maintain the oem look, new bushings and balljoints would be better.
I have resisted veering too far from stock until recently. Where I decided, did I want the car for me or for some museum. 
sporting a 12 bolt from a 69 Chevelle when I grnaded the 10 bolt back in the 90's.
original 400, pulled the TH400 in favor of a 700R4 back in early 2000's
Now has Edelbrock EFI that Don from DCI installed last year and explained a nice restomod will garner more than a no option stock car.

If cost is a factor, new bushings and balljoints would be better.
Well cost is the factor. 
Just need to not attempt a binge buy and buy this across the winter months so I can get everything together by the time the weather breaks here in Rusty ole Cleveland, OH


----------

