# 04 GTO radiator removal



## stephen77375 (Feb 13, 2011)

Need some technical expertise on the removal of the stock radiator the drivers side jug cracked last night so i either need to replace the jug or buy a new radiator how involved is it to pull the radiator? My main concern is having to dump the r134a to pull the condensor is it possible to remove the radiator without pulling the condensor maybe just unbolt it an tweak it to the side? Any knowledge or thoughts would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks


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## HP11 (Apr 11, 2009)

You don't have to do anything to the condenser other then removing the clips that hold the radiator to it. Read through this thread. Apparently it's a little easier than outlined in post #5. 
http://www.gtoforum.com/f37/engine-coolant-leaking-33334/


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## jpalamar (Jul 22, 2008)

I replaced my radiator without having to remove my AC. The only hard part is the clip at the condensor. I used a 2' long flathead to reach in and get it.


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## svede1212 (Nov 1, 2005)

Even if you pulled the AC condenser up you wouldn't need to disconnect the lines. I pulled it up when I did my cam and the aluminum lines bend easily. Like said though you don't have to pull it up for radiator replacement.


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## stephen77375 (Feb 13, 2011)

Okay I successfully removed the radiator last night it took me ruffly 50 minutes to do it given I was doing it myself. I will have the new radiator come friday morning. As far as the goat goes is there any special method to filling the radiator. I know in the past my wife had a 98 pontiac firebird an it required special methods to topping off the tank because it was a "reverse flow". The owners manual makes no mention of this so I'm assuming not. My plan is to connect all hoses after installation an fill through the engine intake port until the level equalizes in the engine an radiator according to the owners manual the vehicle requires 15.1qt or 3.75 gallons. There again the manual doesn't state it but I'm assuming that is just a flush not a complete drain of the system. Before I reconnect I was thinking about sticking the water house in the intake port on the engine on the water pump an letting it run for a few mins just to get a 100% circulating flush any thoughs? I know our systems run around 15psi an my city water is at about 35psi so in theory I have enough pressure to simulate the closed loop normal operation. Sorry I know this is long an drawn out but Id rather have ample input an consideration before I do something wrong an end up overheating the engine. Thanks for your time!


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## HP11 (Apr 11, 2009)

Here's the procedure as taken directly from the service manual:


> Filling Procedure
> 
> •Connect the lower radiator hose.
> •Lower the vehicle.
> ...


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## jpalamar (Jul 22, 2008)

Here is how I filled mine..

1. Hooked lower rad hose and overflow tank to radiator
2. Took the t-stat out since it was only 2 bolts
3. Fill the block and put the t-stat back on
4. Filled the radiator and put the upper rad hose on
5. Filled the overflow
6. Ran the car for a bit and topped off overflow as needed

I had no issues.


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## stephen77375 (Feb 13, 2011)

any thoughts about using the water hose to keep the system full of liquid? I just want to do a complete flush before reinstall.


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## HP11 (Apr 11, 2009)

I imagine that would work. I actually have fittings that clamp to the hoses that adapt to a garden hose for the purpose of flushing. Haven't used them on the GTO yet. As long as it's properly filled when you're done.


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## svede1212 (Nov 1, 2005)

The problem with a water hose is that you're going to have some "ionized" (hard) water left in there. IMHO enough should have spilled out that you shouldn't need a flushing. FWIW on my 3 head installs I just filled up the overflow tank, ran the car, cooled off the car, topped it off and rechecked after running again. Due to having the heads off I had a lot more air in the system than you'd have from a radiator swap.


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## stephen77375 (Feb 13, 2011)

*Defective New Radiator*

Well I'll be a dirty SOB drove 35 miles to get there, left work early, paid for a new radiator, got it home got it all installed and hooked up, went and got the radiator fluid and some water started filling it up and it was pouring out of the drivers side of it... After I unhooked the NEW one repulled it out and looked under the nipple that sticks out that the rubber round bearing sits on there was a small crack. I didnt put any uneven pressure on it, didnt drop it, or anything

Now I have to call them up tomorrow (already know they don't have another in stock) and get them to order me a replacement. Hoping they don't try some crap saying that I damaged it. Where it is broke inward there is no damage marks no scuff marks no pressure marks just looks to be a nice clean pushed in crack...

Sigh..


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## Rukee (Feb 8, 2007)

Good luck with that!! :cheers


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