# rocker question, just want my car back...



## 1970lemonhead (May 14, 2016)

Just got my heads back on along with the other goodies that had to come off for a blown head gasket, reading up on how to adjust the rockers and I came across a few places that say a stock Pontiac are just torqued down to 20ft lbs. It is a Pontiac 350 out of a 1970 lemans, stock internals with a stock replacement edelbrock intake. Any other things I should look out for? Thanks for any input trying to get this old warhorse back on the road.


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## PontiacJim (Dec 29, 2012)

Yep, just torque them down.

Don't use excessive oil on the head bolt threads and put a little on the underside of the heads. You do not need any sealant on the threads as the bolts do not protrude into the water jacket like some other manufacturers do. My machinist says he puts oil on the threads and then wipes them off to remove any excess so only a light coating of oil remains (ARP bolts use their own lube and must be used as such). You DO NOT want too much oil on the threads as the oil can run off and get inbetween the bottom of the bolt and the threaded pocket it bolts into. When the engine gets hot, that excess oil wants to create pressure as it heats and expands. This can crack a block as it can build up that much pressure (like steam) when it gets heated and has no place to go. So wipe the oil off.

Make sure you put the correct length head bolts in their correct position. Clean the block/head surfaces of all contaminants, head gasket material, & oil - you can use alcohol/lacquer thinner to cut through any light oil/grease and a lint free cloth. Most will recommend to use a thread chase on the head bolt threads in the block. A chase will clean up the threads as opposed to a tap which will cut them. I personally have never used one, but I may have just been lucky not to run into any problems. But do makes sure the holes in the block have no debris or anti-freeze/water which may have found its way into them. You can blow out the holes with an air gun if you have one or use those long Q-tip swabs to make sure no water is down in those bolt holes. You want clean & dry. Always start the bolts by hand. Torque the head bolts in 3 increments using the correct torque sequence. After you run the engine to get it to full temp (20-30 minutes), let it cool down and then re-torque the head bolts. 

Tighten the long water pump bolt at the front of the intake where the rubber O-ring fits so as to draw the intake up tight. Then torque the intake bolts down going from center bolts and work outward. I would torque them down in 2 increments to get an even torque. After you run it and shut it down, I would then go back and re-torque the bolts once it cools off (just like the head bolts). Gaskets compress and metal moves, so a few may need to be re-torqued.


Since the engine has been down a while, I might pull the coil wire and spin the engine over a few times to build up oil pressure before you actually fire it up. Leave the valve cover off so you can watch the operation of the rockers and should see the oil pumping out the pushrods/rockers. If all looks good, put the valve cover back on, re-install the coil wire and fire it up. I like to keep the radiator cap off so I can watch and make sure the thermostat opens, and water is flowing. It'll also allow any air pockets bleed off. If the level looks good, and the flow looks good, then put the cap back on. When it cools, double check the anti-freeze level. Don't over fill it.

Watch for any water or fuel leaks to ensure everything is good and tight.

I think that should cover it, but I may be missing something, so use good judgement. :thumbsup:


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## 1970lemonhead (May 14, 2016)

Sounds good, the bolts did go in dry, my father in law helped w the heads we used gas to clean the surface. We are going to hand turn it, also a little oil was applied to each cylinder before the heads went on. Thanks for. The information its at final checks, rockers and distributor need to go back on and ill keep you posted on what we get.


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