# temp gauge for transmission pan



## ylwgto (Oct 27, 2009)

considering buying an aluminum pan for my Th400 with a threaded 1/8 NPT port for a temp gauge.

can I use a mechanical water temp gauge (140-280 degrees) or is that temp range not high enough to monitor tranny temp?


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## PontiacJim (Dec 29, 2012)

ylwgto said:


> considering buying an aluminum pan for my Th400 with a threaded 1/8 NPT port for a temp gauge.
> 
> can I use a mechanical water temp gauge (140-280 degrees) or is that temp range not high enough to monitor tranny temp?


Should work. I might verify with a laser temp gun.

The optimal temperature range for transmission fluid is *175 to 220 degrees*. Above that, for every 20 degrees bad things happen, starting with formation of varnish at 240 degrees, followed by seals hardening, plates slipping, seals and clutches burn out, carbon is formed, and, ultimately, failure.


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## ylwgto (Oct 27, 2009)

Thanks, PJ. just the info I needed.


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## armyadarkness (Dec 7, 2020)

ylwgto said:


> considering buying an aluminum pan for my Th400 with a threaded 1/8 NPT port for a temp gauge.
> 
> can I use a mechanical water temp gauge (140-280 degrees) or is that temp range not high enough to monitor tranny temp?


I wasnt going to go down this road, but if you're all in on this TH400, then I might as well.

On my old cars, I would run an aluminum, high capacity pan, with a drain, like we discussed, and then I would route the trans cooler lines through a remote oil filter mount, usually on the radiator support, which had a bung for a temp sensor, and then use a finned oil cooler next to it.

Aside from the pan (which you already have, I think):

It's $50 worth of parts
It bypasses the internal oil filter, so you never drop the pan again
It adds capacity and runs much cooler.
So when your lines hit the rad support, re route one to a remote filter mount, then out of it and back on its way to the radiator. Then you can add another cooler if you like. There a ton of room on the pass-side rad support of a 66, for a spin on filter.

This is what I would do, if you really wanted a CHEAP, unique mod, which would dramatically improve performance and maint.


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## armyadarkness (Dec 7, 2020)

Looks like prices went up a bit...

Heat sink trans cooler, $50









Remote mount is $24









Napa has all of the fittings to do it. The mount can easily be drilled and tapped for the sensor, or you can buy one pre tapped, for more money.


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## ylwgto (Oct 27, 2009)

armyadarkness said:


> I wasnt going to go down this road, but if you're all in on this TH400, then I might as well.
> 
> On my old cars, I would run an aluminum, high capacity pan, with a drain, like we discussed, and then I would route the trans cooler lines through a remote oil filter mount, usually on the radiator support, which had a bung for a temp sensor, and then use a finned oil cooler next to it.
> 
> ...



Well, I am all in for now on this transmission. And since I got it for not much $ and will install myself (I think), I have a bit of room to spend optmomize its cooling.

I like your idea. A few follow up questions.

I've always run the lines to an auxillary cooler in front of the radiator, but I hate the way that looks with the hose routing under the core support. You are suggesting using that "heat sink" cooler in place of a typical fluid cooler and mount it behind the core support (engine side)? It get's enough exposure to air to have a cooling effect mounted there?

Now that I'm researching this I also think I've always plumbed my cooler wrong. I've always completely bypassed the cooler incorporated into the radiator and routed directly to the auxillary cooler (see pic). Aparently that is wrong and you are supposed to use both in-line (see pic). Does it matter which way or are they accomplshing the same thing, with the latter just adding more oil and cooling? 

That remote oil filter mount filters the transmission fluid in addition to the in-pan filter. Would that be overly restrictive to fluid flow in any way? Do you just use a typical screw on oil filter or one for transmision fluid?

Last, did you plumb it all with aN fittings or hose and barb set up?

Thanks, army.


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## armyadarkness (Dec 7, 2020)

ylwgto said:


> You are suggesting using that "heat sink" cooler in place of a typical fluid cooler and mount it behind the core support (engine side)? It get's enough exposure to air to have a cooling effect mounted there?


Yep. The heat sink doesnt need the flow that the radiator does... although, so they are compact and can be mounted next to the radiator, behind the grills, without the ugly intrusion. 

You can also mount it in the frame rail or on the back of the rad support. ANYWHERE!

Personally, Id use all hard lines, for additional cooling and aesthetics, but if you cant bend and flare, consider measuring up your hoses and have them made by a hydraulics place. Thatll eliminate the leaks and hose clamps.

Use loctite pipe sealant on all threads


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## armyadarkness (Dec 7, 2020)

Always use the radiator cooler in conjunction with any add on coolers... order is irrelevant.

You can eliminate your pan filter and replace it with a screen or use both filters. Ive run them both ways, in harsh environments, for more than 30 years. Just use a spin on oil filter. Then when it's time to change, drain the pan, swap the external filter, and you're done.


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## armyadarkness (Dec 7, 2020)

All of it will add capacity and reduce temps, plus youll have a trick setup that will stupify others


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## ylwgto (Oct 27, 2009)

Got it. Thanks.

So I drew up a schematic that also shows plans to remote mount an oil filter.
This is overkill for my needs, I'm sure, but I do like the idea of having a cool looking organized filter set up on my inner fender well AND the ease of changing both filter types. 

Does this look like it will work?


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## armyadarkness (Dec 7, 2020)

ylwgto said:


> Got it. Thanks.
> 
> So I drew up a schematic that also shows plans to remote mount an oil filter.
> This is overkill for my needs, I'm sure, but I do like the idea of having a cool looking organized filter set up on my inner fender well AND the ease of changing both filter types.
> ...


Yes that would work. Your picture shows an extra oild filter mount, though.


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## ylwgto (Oct 27, 2009)

Extra filter mount is to relocate engine oil filter (may as well do that at the same time...changing my filter is a bitch with my headers).

I'm pricing it all out to make my own oils and transmission lines from the Evil Energy -6AN line kit. Never done this, but seems straight forward enough.









Amazon.com: EVIL ENERGY 20FT 6AN Nylon Braided CPE Fuel Line Fitting Kit Bundle with 4pcs/Pack Fuel Hose Separator Clamp : Automotive


Buy EVIL ENERGY 20FT 6AN Nylon Braided CPE Fuel Line Fitting Kit Bundle with 4pcs/Pack Fuel Hose Separator Clamp: Fuel - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases



www.amazon.com


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## PontiacJim (Dec 29, 2012)

ylwgto said:


> Extra filter mount is to relocate engine oil filter (may as well do that at the same time...changing my filter is a bitch with my headers).
> 
> I'm pricing it all out to make my own oils and transmission lines from the Evil Energy -6AN line kit. Never done this, but seems straight forward enough.
> 
> ...



Hmmm.

Running the trans line through the radiator is said to help warm up the trans fluid when cold. So then the question becomes, do you run the trans line through the radiator to cool/warm the fluid and then cool it again through the auxillary cooler or go through the auxillary cooler and then through the radiator to pick up heat?

Having 2 trans filters, one factory in the pan and a second spin-on seems way over kill. So the next question is, having the spin-on filter and auxillary cooler added to the trans lines, will the trans fluid flow well or better than factory OR will you be adding a restriction that will build additional internal pressures within the trans and cause you problems - like ballooning the converter or damaging the pump?

Let's move on to the remote oil filter. Is it better to have 2 small oil filters or 1 large filter? Which has less flow restriction?

The longer the line, the oil pressure may drop.

Depending on where you locate it, high or low, how have you addressed oil drain back into the engine when you shut it off so when you fire up the engine, it takes a few seconds to pump oil from the oil pump, to the filters, then down to the engine block. Nothing worse than starting an engine dry.

Hmmmm.


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## ylwgto (Oct 27, 2009)

I was planning to mount both on the passenger inner fender well. 

I don't see an issue for the oil cooler...very common spot to mount it that also keeps the lines relatively short.

I can see having 2 transmission filters as being restrictive, which was a question I asked earlier. I don't know enough about transmissions to answer it myself. Maybe I'll omit the external trans filter and just use the heat sink cooler and rely on the standard filter...I'm installing a deeper pan with a drain, so oil/filter changes won't be terrible.

Lots to think about!


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## armyadarkness (Dec 7, 2020)

ylwgto said:


> Extra filter mount is to relocate engine oil filter (may as well do that at the same time...changing my filter is a bitch with my headers).
> 
> I'm pricing it all out to make my own oils and transmission lines from the Evil Energy -6AN line kit. Never done this, but seems straight forward enough.
> 
> ...


Love those Evil Energy kits! Very easy


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## armyadarkness (Dec 7, 2020)

PontiacJim said:


> Having 2 trans filters, one factory in the pan and a second spin-on seems way over kill. So the next question is, having the spin-on filter and auxillary cooler added to the trans lines, will the trans fluid flow well or better than factory OR will you be adding a restriction that will build additional internal pressures within the trans and cause you problems - like ballooning the converter or damaging the pump?


Having done this on all of my auto's since the 90's, including my GTO's, Trans AM's, and a few purpose built off road trucks, I never had an issue.

On the first one I did, I kept the internal filter and spin on, and that was an 87 GMC Jimmy, on 40" tires, which spent it's life being abused. I put over 180k on it.

After that, I started removing the filter element in the pan filter, and just using it like a pick up tube.

All this being said, personally, in 36 years of doing this all day, the only time Ive ever seen bad oil and clogged filters, is when the owner gratuitously neglected them.


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## ylwgto (Oct 27, 2009)

Apparently this is another one of those polarizing topics...









External filters for TH350/400


Anyone running an external filter? I know Derale sells a filter kit to go along with their trans coolers. I already have a setup I can use for an external filter and was seriously considering it.




www.trifive.com





Gonna stick with the internal flter for now, just to save some $ in lines/fittings/filter set up.


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## Sick467 (Oct 29, 2019)

Both of my cars with trans temp gages read 100 to 250°F, so a water temp gage with a similar range would work, but you would lose a bit of the low end (not that important) and my water temp gages say "Water Temp" on them which would drive me nuts when they should say "Trans Temp". Still, not a big deal if your trying to get by on what you have.


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## armyadarkness (Dec 7, 2020)

lololololo... yes well, it is the internet.

I actually enjoyed that thread you posted. It was a perfect example of what's wrong with the world today, but also a refreshing blast of comedy!

I especially loved all of the folks claiming that a the heat-sink oil coolers are useless unless they're placed in direct airflow, in front of the radiator!

So... for the last 100 years, we cool our automatic transmission fluid by running it through a 200 degree radiator, but putting it through a space aged aircraft aluminum heat sink is a bad idea, because it's not in the air flow? If you put a cold spoon in a hot cup of coffee, the spoon gets hot because it's a heat sink.

Every television on Earth has heat sinks inside it, without any airflow, so...unless these people have thermal dynamics degrees, consider the source.

When I chimed in to this thread, I opened with " I wasnt going to mention this, but", and this was why. I didn't want my opinion on how you could do a trick mod to your car, to turn into nailing Christ on the cross.

I only _did _mention it because you mentioned wanting a gauge, and since I presumed you knew you didnt need one, I thought you might be looking to do something unique!

I would stick with whatever you're comfortable with. 

Take your advice from guys like @PontiacJim whom you know has been studying these cars for 40 years, and whose opinions are stated as exactly that, opinions. When he has facts, he posts them, when he doesn't he tries to find them.

As you know, most all of the guys in this forum are that way... but outside of this place, forget it!


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## PontiacJim (Dec 29, 2012)

armyadarkness said:


> lololololo... yes well, it is the internet.
> 
> I actually enjoyed that thread you posted. It was a perfect example of what's wrong with the world today, but also a refreshing blast of comedy!
> 
> ...


My point is, what was wrong with the factory Th-400 filter? Can't say as I have ever heard of a trans going south because of a factory filter issue. Internal parts wear/break and trans fluid can break down from excess heat. What bites most people is not changing the fluid/filter on a regular maintenance schedule or checking the dipstick regularly and smelling/looking at the fluid to see if it is burned or discolored. Most of my expereinces with automatics is that the small fine wear particles of the clutches and bands will drop in at the bottom of the pan. A magnet is a good idea, but most particles are aluminum specs or clutch facings. So I don't see a point in a second remote filter, but that is up to the car owner.

I have always used a trans cooler of some sort. Have used an AC condensor as big as they are, in front of my radiator, and have used the aftermarket smaller core styles. Did not have a temp gauge so cannot say exactly how hot/cool the kept the fluid. I also used to use the B&M trans fluid which I recall was blue in color, and was made as a high performance trans fluid - better than the Dextron or Ford F fluids. So again, if you feel more at ease with a remote filter added to the factory filter or instead of the factory filter, then use it.

I have a remote filter going on my Lemans build. Using headers, the remote should make it easier to change the filter, the filter/lines add more oil capacity, and the oil will run cooler. I purchased the set-up from Nitemare Performance and emailed him my questions as there is all kinds of pro's/con's on the internet that it is hard to get a good answer. So here is my email:

PJ to Darrin Magro email:

"I have never used a remote, and what I have researched on the internet has simply confused me more. Lot of opinions and I'm sure many haven't a clue what they are talking about, so excuse my ignorance.. So a couple of questions to sort through the internet BS/Myth's.

#1 . Biggest thing I read is the term "oil drain back." With the remote filter mounted on the firewall, when the engine is shut down, the oil can drain back down the lines leaving the lines dry and when the engine is fired up, bearings don't get any oil until the oil pressure builds up and wear of bearing/mating surfaces are accelerated.

#2 Location of oil filter with regards to the above. Some say it needs to be low on the firewall and mounting it above the engine will only make "oil drain back" worse. With no heater in the way on the firewall, that is about where I would locate the filter. I want people to see it, not bury it low out of obvious sight.

#3 A remote filter can lower oil pressure. I have the 60 PSI pump and I have read I may see an oil pressure drop of a few pounds. (Have a healthy iron head 455 build/TKO-600 5-speed/3.89 geared Ford 9"). Perhaps this is more due to where the mechanical oil pressure gauge reading is taken - engine or remote filter fitting?

#4 Any other considerations or pitfalls I may need to know about?"

Darrin Magro to PJ email reply:

"Most remote filter set ups got a bad rap because they are installed with really long lines with the filter attached to the radiator support and sometimes with twin filters. This set up reflects some of the issues you mentioned with this kind of set up, Ours is designed to be installed high on the fire wall, close to the motor. There is NO drain back of the filter, only of the lines, due to simple gravity. The filtration is superior and the oil runs cooler. An average of 7 HP can be expected over a standard oil housing with a stock filter. Extra clearance for headers is also a big benefit. When you first start the engine when COLD just run for the first 2 seconds at the lowest RPM possible till oil pressure comes up then you good. No issues when hot as the oil pumps quickly. The engine running for 2 seconds with no oil pressure wont do any harm as the bearings hold oil. Use Drivens HR1 Hot Rod oil, conventional based 15-50 #2 106 oil for best results. There is no oil pressure issues at all when driving or under load. We install this on EVERY motor we sell. Its absolutely the best single upgrade you can do to your oil system. Any more question please advise."

I also pulled this off the internet:

BTW HERES AN IMPORTANT TIP, IF YOUR INSTALLING A REMOTE OIL COOLER, IT is really common for guys to use lines that are far too small, that restrict flow oil flow or select a transmission or oil cooler that has to small of internal passages, shop carefully you want a MINIMUM of 1/2, or AN8 line size and 5/8" or AN10 is BETTER.

Up to 250 GPH =4.2 GPM = 1/2" or -08 AN (nearly ideal for transmission and oil coolers)
Up to 450 GPH =7.5 GPM = 5/8" or -10 AN
Up to 900 GPH = 15 GPM = 3/4"or -12 AN


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## ylwgto (Oct 27, 2009)

I'm sticking with the internal trans filter for now. switching to a deeper 3" aluminum finned pan (with a temp gauge I am tapping into the pan) and an external heat sink cooler in line off of the radiator cooler. For my car's purposes I think this will suffice just fine in keeping the fluid cool. Using TCI MaxShift Street ATF, per their recommendation, because it can be blended with any ATF and I do not know what was used previously in the transmission.

I am mounting the external oil filter on the passenger fender well. this is almost a direct shot from the engine, so lines will be short and avoiding headers just like a firewall mount. I like the milled plate that replaces the stock filter mount like you have PJ, but I cheaped out and got the screw on filter replacement type with 1/2" NPT ports. Will be plumbed with -6AN fittings (as will transmision lines). I think these short -6AN 3/8" lines will not be overly restrictive with oil flow given some of the sizes of ports in the engine and heads, so not worried about that.

Bought all the stuff, now just gotta do it!

Appreciate all the feedback, you guys gave me the guts to do it myself and save the $.


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## BearGFR (Aug 25, 2008)

FWIW, I have my trans temp sensor installed in the line that's OUTPUT from the trans, right at the point where the fluid enters the trans cooler. Fluid at this point is coming from the converter, and my theory is that having the sensor at this point will tell me the maximum temp that my fluid is getting to.

Bear


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## armyadarkness (Dec 7, 2020)

PontiacJim said:


> My point is, what was wrong with the factory Th-400 filter?


I didn't think you said anything wrong, at all Jim. You had a few questions, offered your opinion, and that was it.

My gripe was with members on another forum, who were claiming that heat sinks were useless.

As for my recommendation to @ylwgto He was looking to do something cool with his new trans and I was simply making a neat suggestion. Like asking my girlfriend to put on a daisy dukes and a bikini top... not necessary, just cheap and fun to look at.


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## ylwgto (Oct 27, 2009)

The -6AN line arrived and it does "look" a bit narrow for oil lines...ordering -8AN for that. Probably wholly unecessary, but piece of mind n all.

My car is not here right now. Anyone have a sense of how long the transmission to radiator lines are (in ft)? I ordered a kit with 20 ft of line, but I'm thinking that may be overkill.

would 10 ft be enough with a little left over to make lines for the cooler?


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## armyadarkness (Dec 7, 2020)

I know its not as far as it seems, but no, I dont know. I can measure later if you need


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## ylwgto (Oct 27, 2009)

armyadarkness said:


> I know its not as far as it seems, but no, I dont know. I can measure later if you need


if not too much of a PITA, that'd be great.


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## armyadarkness (Dec 7, 2020)

I'll PM you my number. Shoot me a text or call after 4 and Ill be with the car.


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## PontiacJim (Dec 29, 2012)

ylwgto said:


> The -6AN line arrived and it does "look" a bit narrow for oil lines...ordering -8AN for that. Probably wholly unecessary, but piece of mind n all.
> 
> My car is not here right now. Anyone have a sense of how long the transmission to radiator lines are (in ft)? I ordered a kit with 20 ft of line, but I'm thinking that may be overkill.
> 
> would 10 ft be enough with a little left over to make lines for the cooler?


Why not simply purchase the correct steel trans lines and then use short length of rubber line to join the heat sink? Just not a personal fan of rubber line in long lengths.


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## Baaad65 (Aug 29, 2019)

ylwgto said:


> I'm sticking with the internal trans filter for now. switching to a deeper 3" aluminum finned pan (with a temp gauge I am tapping into the pan) and an external heat sink cooler in line off of the radiator cooler. For my car's purposes I think this will suffice just fine in keeping the fluid cool. Using TCI MaxShift Street ATF, per their recommendation, because it can be blended with any ATF and I do not know what was used previously in the transmission.
> 
> I am mounting the external oil filter on the passenger fender well. this is almost a direct shot from the engine, so lines will be short and avoiding headers just like a firewall mount. I like the milled plate that replaces the stock filter mount like you have PJ, but I cheaped out and got the screw on filter replacement type with 1/2" NPT ports. Will be plumbed with -6AN fittings (as will transmision lines). I think these short -6AN 3/8" lines will not be overly restrictive with oil flow given some of the sizes of ports in the engine and heads, so not worried about that.
> 
> ...


Just caught up on this thread and just curious, you wanted a drain plug for easy oil changes but if you leave the factory filter instead of the remote now you have to drop the pan which is a pain and messy, am I missing something?


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## ylwgto (Oct 27, 2009)

PontiacJim said:


> Why not simply purchase the correct steel trans lines and then use short length of rubber line to join the heat sink? Just not a personal fan of rubber line in long lengths.


The original steel lines are what is there now. Even with flared ends and brass barb fittings on the radiator the hose connections ALWAYS seem to leak. I'll keep them stored in case the AN hose is an issue down the line (but by then I'll have a TKX!). The hose is steel braid reinforced, so not too worried about it at all.


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## ylwgto (Oct 27, 2009)

Baaad65 said:


> Just caught up on this thread and just curious, you wanted a drain plug for easy oil changes but if you leave the factory filter instead of the remote now you have to drop the pan which is a pain and messy, am I missing something?


I currently have a steel pan, which always leaks. The tranny that is going is is getting a deeper aluminum pan with a drain, yes. Using a reusable lube locker gasket. 

I bailed on the external trans filter idea for now. For the amount that I drive the car, I won;t have to think about changing the factory filter for a LONG time...and with a drain on the pan it won;t be a big deal.

The other new part is plumbing in a cooler after the radiator cooler and adding a temp gauge to the pan.

I'm all set and will be preassembling stuff as the parts come in so I don't have to build lines the same day I drop the old tranny.


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## Baaad65 (Aug 29, 2019)

ylwgto said:


> I currently have a steel pan, which always leaks. The tranny that is going is is getting a deeper aluminum pan with a drain, yes. Using a reusable lube locker gasket.
> 
> I bailed on the external trans filter idea for now. For the amount that I drive the car, I won;t have to think about changing the factory filter for a LONG time...and with a drain on the pan it won;t be a big deal.
> 
> ...


Ya I thought about it later, thinking how often do you need to change the fluid unless you're racing it every weekend or pulling a trailer 😉 I would make sure it has a magnetic drain plug though, have one on my differential, 4 spd trans and oil pan.


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## ylwgto (Oct 27, 2009)

Just dawned on me that I've overlooked the dipstick when switching to a larger TH400 pan. This is the pan I am going to use:









Trick Flow Specialties TFS-1001 Trick Flow® Transmission Pans | Summit Racing


Free Shipping - Trick Flow® Transmission Pans with qualifying orders of $99. Shop Automatic Transmission Pans at Summit Racing.




www.summitracing.com





Details state 2qt capacity increase and "deep" model. Is that stock "deep" for truck transmissions? inner depth is 3" frpom bottom of pan to gasket surface. 

Can anyone point me to what disptick to get? Thanks!


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## Baaad65 (Aug 29, 2019)

Does the manufacturer say what the dipstick should be with their increased capacity pan?


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## O52 (Jan 27, 2019)

You really don't need a new dipstick. You're adding extra capacity so the full line should be the same. 
IF you don't have an extended pickup for the extra depth, you MUST use the original dipstick


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## ylwgto (Oct 27, 2009)

O52 said:


> You really don't need a new dipstick. You're adding extra capacity so the full line should be the same.
> IF you don't have an extended pickup for the extra depth, you MUST use the original dipstick



Now that I think it through, you are right... Fill level is same, there's just more oil capacity under it (duh). Thanks.

I am using the supplied extended pickup tube/new filter that came with the pan


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## armyadarkness (Dec 7, 2020)

Baaad65 said:


> Just caught up on this thread and just curious, you wanted a drain plug for easy oil changes but if you leave the factory filter instead of the remote now you have to drop the pan which is a pain and messy, am I missing something?


You replace the oem filter with just a pickup tube


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## armyadarkness (Dec 7, 2020)

Baaad65 said:


> Ya I thought about it later, thinking how often do you need to change the fluid unless you're racing it every weekend or pulling a trailer 😉 I would make sure it has a magnetic drain plug though, have one on my differential, 4 spd trans and oil pan.


The easier it is to change your fluids and filter, the more often you'll do it. On cars that sit a lot or get driven hard, there are big advantages... but it's all preference.


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## armyadarkness (Dec 7, 2020)

ylwgto said:


> Just dawned on me that I've overlooked the dipstick when switching to a larger TH400 pan. This is the pan I am going to use:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Same DS as you have


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## Baaad65 (Aug 29, 2019)

O52 said:


> You really don't need a new dipstick. You're adding extra capacity so the full line should be the same.
> IF you don't have an extended pickup for the extra depth, you MUST use the original dipstick


I was thinking the same thing after posting, you still would fill to the original dipstick full mark just now you have more oil in the pan.


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## ylwgto (Oct 27, 2009)

Another question for you all. I'm prepping the transmission today (drilling and tapping pan, installing pan, and new filter and new inlet outlet AN fittings.

Can I use Ptex thread sealant on the temp senson in the pan and the NPT ends of the AN fittings into the trans? I am hesitant to use teflon tape, as I know it can break down and create clogs over time.


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## ylwgto (Oct 27, 2009)

armyadarkness said:


> You replace the oem filter with just a pickup tube


just curious, were you ever woried about the pickup tube falling out from vibration? without the filter bolt there is nothing to really hold it into the case.


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## armyadarkness (Dec 7, 2020)

I would use Loctite thread sealant, not teflon tape. 

As for the PU tube, you can simply remove the filter media from a current filter


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## Sick467 (Oct 29, 2019)

ylwgto said:


> ...Can I use Ptex thread sealant on the temp senson in the pan and the NPT ends of the AN fittings into the trans? I am hesitant to use teflon tape, as I know it can break down and create clogs over time.


I have used both the teflon tape-like variety and the teflon goo in a tube with success. I always make sure that the tape style is not wrapped to where it would be exposed to any internals and I always wash away any of the oozing goo before finishing the installation. With a transmission pan, it is very easy to know if your tape or goo needs to be scrubbed off since you will be doing this on the bench. Either way you go, a tooth brush and some brake clean will make very short order of any extra goo and a light brass brush will remove any excess tape. I prefer the Loctite thread sealant with PTFE, but the tape works well given you can make certain you are not using any more than needed. Pay close attention to tightening the fittings down at the pan...aluminum threads are not very forgiving and you do not want to have to re-drill and tap for a larger bushing on an expensive pan.


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## armyadarkness (Dec 7, 2020)

Also... You can easilly add a tee in one of the lines, and screw your sensor into that. Would save you the trouble of taping and the potential for a pan leak or interference.


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## armyadarkness (Dec 7, 2020)

This 6an fitting is tapped 1/8 NPT!


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## ylwgto (Oct 27, 2009)

armyadarkness said:


> This 6an fitting is tapped 1/8 NPT!
> 
> View attachment 154405




I though of that as well...it's a very good point.

the sensor is pretty long before any threads, so that particulat fitting would not allow the sensor to get in all the way 

Here is my solution:

plumb in a 6an "T" with an an6 female swivel port. attach a 6an male-to-1/4 NPT female adapter to that. then use the brass 1/8 to 1/4" NPT adapter that came with the temp gauge to house the 1/8 NPT sensor. I think it will work!

There is a *massive* debate on the web about the best temp sensor location...some say pan, some say output line, some say input line. Have not found a definitive answer (too may opinions). Should I put it in the fluid out line before the radiator?

The lower port on the TH400 is the fluid out, correct?


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## PontiacJim (Dec 29, 2012)

ylwgto said:


> I though of that as well...it's a very good point.
> 
> the sensor is pretty long before any threads, so that particulat fitting would not allow the sensor to get in all the way
> 
> ...


Put it in the pan. You want to know what the temp is at its hottest to get a true reading of the fluid temp. If the temp gets too hot, then you will know it and want to change it. If you take the temp higher up in the system, or after the cooler, you are not getting s true reading of the fluid temp - which will be lower.

I have used the temp at the pan, especially when pulling a trailer. If the temp gets into the "hot" zone where the trans fluid is cooked/broken down from heat, then you know to change it out with new/fresh fluid the next time you can and keep on going. Heat is what destroys the trans fluid and then the rest is down hill from there.


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## ylwgto (Oct 27, 2009)

Got the new filter in and pan tapped and mounted.

one of the pan bolts at the front of the case feels a bit soft in the threads. Can I run a longer bolt through with a lock nut on top to get proper torque (its one of the bolts under the converter)? I don’t want to drill and tap the case, but will a nut on top be an issue?


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## armyadarkness (Dec 7, 2020)

I don't think I ever saw a TH without at least one nut on top of a pan bolt!


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## BearGFR (Aug 25, 2008)

> There is a *massive* debate on the web about the best temp sensor location...some say pan, some say output line, some say input line. Have not found a definitive answer (too may opinions). Should I put it in the fluid out line before the radiator?


That's where mine is. I'm not so narrow-minded (I hope) that I'll argue about that being "the only right way" to do it however. The reason I put mine there is because in theory, I'm thinking that's where the hottest temps will be found - just before the fluid enters the cooler(s) - so if measurements taken at that point don't show that the fluid is getting too hot, then I can be pretty confident that temps are ok "everywhere" in the system. 

Your mileage may vary, void where prohibited by law, slippery when wet, past performance is not a guarantee of future return.

Put yours wherever makes the most sense _to you _and ignore all the Inter-noise. 

Bear


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## armyadarkness (Dec 7, 2020)

I look at it as one of those... "your car is 55 years old and it never had one", things... so putting one anywhere will be a massive improvement over how it has spent the last five decades.


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## ylwgto (Oct 27, 2009)

Ok, a couple more novice questions.

I know the converter "spins" on to the transmission until it engages properly with the pump spline and the mounting pads sit about 1" behind the front flange of the bellhousing. But once there is it firm in place without any play when you spin it? I think I have mine on all the way, but there is quite a bit of side to side play...worried that it isn't mated properly and will not seal. 

Here is the front of the transmission pump. Everything look good there?

BTW, it is the pan bolt on the left there that is the one that needs a top nut...I assume no issue with clearance there?


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## armyadarkness (Dec 7, 2020)

If that's where you need the nut, I would helicoil it. Seems like feild removal would SUCK with a nut in that location.


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## ylwgto (Oct 27, 2009)

I know, worst of them all to have punky threads...


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## armyadarkness (Dec 7, 2020)

You could always pack it with steel epoxy and then just retap it. For the low torque requirement, it might hold


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## ylwgto (Oct 27, 2009)

Anyone have any input on the "wiggle" in my converter?


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## Sick467 (Oct 29, 2019)

ylwgto said:


> Anyone have any input on the "wiggle" in my converter?


 I have a 350 TH sitting in the shop that I have "wiggled". It is fully seated onto the shaft and it has about an 1/10th inch of play if measured at the outer perimeter in the forward and backward direction (overall a 1/10th inch of travel). Torque converters don't land real firm. The key is making sure you have made the proper number of "clicks" as it is rotated and pushed on and that you have the proper distance back from the bell as a double check. Most times you will know if you have it right when you have the transmission bolted tight to the engine block and you can still spin the torque converter easily before bolting it to the flywheel.


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## ylwgto (Oct 27, 2009)

Yeah, it checks out in terms of distance back from the bell. Gotta say it wiggles more that 1/10th and it does not make me confident that the pump seal will make a secure seal. would hate to have a leak there atfer the instal.


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## armyadarkness (Dec 7, 2020)

ylwgto said:


> Anyone have any input on the "wiggle" in my converter?


Sorry. I never knew much about transmissions, just ran em into the ground and they always worked. And now any of my half-assed knowledge is on manuals.


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## ylwgto (Oct 27, 2009)

here's a vid.
converter mountin pad is 1" behind bell flange and fully engaged. pump seal looks fresh and uniform.
Am i missing something? maybe I'm worried over nothing...









TH400 torque converter "wiggle"







youtube.com


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## ylwgto (Oct 27, 2009)

Good or bad place to mount the heat sink trans cooler?? 

Pros: it fits perfectly under the lower rad core support, would be super easy to plumb lines to it there and it is in airflow
Cons: it is shows a bit from the front and it is exposed to contact damage

My engine compt spots are limited since my aftermarket expansion tank is mounted on passenger side of radiator and I'm using fenderwell to mount the remote engine oil filter


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## armyadarkness (Dec 7, 2020)

Sorry I cant help more with the converter.

As for the heatsink, I like it there... Yes, it can be in the contact path, but so is everything else. You can put a light coat of flat black on it, if you dont like seeing it. 

At the same time, since it's a heat sink and not a radiator, it doesnt rely on being in the flow of air, so you can tuck it into a frame rail, too


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## ylwgto (Oct 27, 2009)

Mounted up the trans cooler today, looks very clean.

Doing the tranny this weekend.


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## mjbenjammin1962 (Nov 25, 2021)

Sure glad I have a Muncie!  Sure wish I could shift that Muncie!


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## ylwgto (Oct 27, 2009)

Got the trans in. Had to enlist the help of a friend at a local shop. Header clearance was super tight, the pipes had to be unbolted from the collectors. there were some missing parts on the new trans (speedo gear and selector shaft seal) and the new transmission had a metric rather than standard case (all new bolts)...woulda caused me fits in my driveway.

Anyhow, it is working great. and NO LEAKS.

Will have to get used to the feel of a higher stall converter, but it flashes quick at about 2300 and is fast as F around town now with hard shifts. We'll see about engine/trans temp manners on the highway with the new stall speed. Still gotta install the trans temp gauge

Happy for now, but someday it will be a manual.


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## armyadarkness (Dec 7, 2020)

I'm super happy to hear it bro! This was a long agonizing journey for you. I never drove a car with a stall converter, but after learning all of the cam biz from PJ, I suspect that it wouldve been a game changer!

Im glad your struggle is over for a bit. I hope Im still around when TKX time comes for you!


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## ylwgto (Oct 27, 2009)

armyadarkness said:


> I'm super happy to hear it bro! This was a long agonizing journey for you. I never drove a car with a stall converter, but after learning all of the cam biz from PJ, I suspect that it wouldve been a game changer!
> 
> Im glad your struggle is over for a bit. I hope Im still around when TKX time comes for you!


thanks dude!


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