# ignition problem



## vera_jr (Aug 17, 2012)

I have a problem turning on the car. When I crank it, it starts right up. The second I let go of the cylinder, the car shuts off. I replaced the lock cylinder as well as the sector gear inside the column. It is still doing the same thing. From what I read, there are two possibilities, a bad Ignition Switch (on top of the steering column) or a bad ballast relay. Has anyone ran into this problem and what was your solution???


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## 05GTO (Oct 6, 2004)

Sounds like you may have a bad ballast wire or a bad connection, you can run a jumper wire from a positive to the + on the coil, if the car continues to run that will confirm the wire is bad. You will have to remove the wire to turn off the car.


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## Rukee (Feb 8, 2007)

With the key 'on' check for voltage on both sides of the voltage resister block on the firewall. There should be battery voltage on one side and about 8-9volts on the other. If there is voltage on both sides, check for voltage at the + side of the coil. If there is no voltage anywhere, check the ignition electrical switch


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## vera_jr (Aug 17, 2012)

the coil has power on both sides. im trying to trace the wires into the fuse box. can anyone tell me which fuse supplies the ignition system?
I am going to be pissed if it is something as simple as that. 
the resistor ballast is empty because it seems the car is running HEI. 
Anything?? Bueller? Bueller??


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## Rukee (Feb 8, 2007)

How much voltage do you have at the HEI with the key 'on'?


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## BearGFR (Aug 25, 2008)

Let me get this straight. The car will start but dies immediately when you release the key (and it goes back to the "run" position), yet with the key in the "run" position you've verified that you have voltage to the coil? Also you said your car is running HEI? Where, exactly are you checking coil voltage? At the HEI connector on the side of the cap I hope?

Bear


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## vera_jr (Aug 17, 2012)

ok. lemme explain a little better.
When I turn the lock cylinder to the start position, the car will crank and start. When I let go of the cylinder, the car dies. If I turn it to the start position, and once the engine starts I back off just a little (enough so the starter isn't slipping), the engine will stay on. Then I let it go and the engine dies.
I read up on some forums and it said look at the ballast resistor wire to the coil. There is no ballast resistor wire. The resistor is empty. Nothing connected to it. The coil has a single wire connected to the distributor. That is the only small wire going to the distributor other than the thick spark wires on the top of the cap.
I checked the top of the coil, both + and - for voltage. I didn't use a multimeter so I don't have a voltage output. I used a continuity tester that lights up if there is power. When the engine is in the start position, and also slightly backed off (not all the way in the run position) it has power. As soon as the cylinder is let go, the power supply is cut off and the light turned off.
All the fuses look good in the fuse box. 
Could this be an issue with the ignition switch?
Before the car started doing this, it was running like a beast. 
Nothing was changed between it running and not running.
The wires are original so many are frail or brittle. This could be an issue.
I don't know which wires on the ignition switch to begin looking at. 
Once they go to the fuse box, I lose them.
HELP!! S.O.GTO!!


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## BearGFR (Aug 25, 2008)

Gotcha --- so when you "relax" and release the key, you've got no power to the coil. 99% bet the problem is the ignition switch on top of the steering column. There's a slider inside it that connects power to the ignition, and there are two different paths out of the switch depending on whether it's in the START position or in the RUN position. START position routes power through copper direct to the coil, RUN position uses a path that goes through a resistor (or resistor wire). They both end up at the coil + terminal but take different routes out of the ignition switch. Your problem is going to be either in the switch itself (most likely) or in the wiring circuit that's connected to the RUN terminal on the switch. Can't tell for sure from your avatar photo (my eyes are getting old) but is your car a 69? If so, I have a diagram that will show in detail which wires are which.

Bear


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## vera_jr (Aug 17, 2012)

Your Eyes do not fail... it is a 69


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## BearGFR (Aug 25, 2008)

Well allrighty then... coming off your ignition switch, you should find a yellow wire that's attached to a terminal all by itself. On the terminal next to it, there should be two wires attached: one should be pink, the other looks like it might be black with a purple or pink tracer on it - both connected to the same switch terminal. The yellow wire and the black w/tracer wire both ultimately connect to the engine coil wire (they both connect to the same terminal on the engine harness plug at the firewall). From the diagram, I suspect that the yellow wire is the START ignition feed and the black/tracer wire is the RUN ignition feed (this wire is going to be the resistor wire). You may have to drop drop the column to get access to the terminals on the switch and still leave everything connected, but that's what you need to do. If you've got power at the switch connector on both those places when the ignition switch is correct position (start or run) then you know the problem is in the wiring. Of one of them is 'dead' at the switch no matter what you do with the key, then you know it's the switch.

Bear


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## vera_jr (Aug 17, 2012)

the one with the Pink and Black/stipe has power when held in the start position, not in the run position. The black wire on there is also cut. but it has been cut the whole time I have had the car. the pink one is fine.


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## BearGFR (Aug 25, 2008)

And the yellow?


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## vera_jr (Aug 17, 2012)

ok correction. The yellow has power when in the start position. the black one has power in the run position when I let the cylinder go (when I relax it after starting)


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## BearGFR (Aug 25, 2008)

This is at the switch, right? If so then that would seem to indicate the switch is good and the problem is in the wiring. See if you can follow the black wire all the way to the firewall connector.


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## vera_jr (Aug 17, 2012)

the black wire (the one sharing the slot w the pink one) is cut off at the ignition switch. I was able to stick the probe into the left over stub of the black wire to determine it would get power. 
but yes, it does seem the switch is working


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## BearGFR (Aug 25, 2008)

vera_jr said:


> the black wire (the one sharing the slot w the pink one) is cut off at the ignition switch. I was able to stick the probe into the left over stub of the black wire to determine it would get power.
> but yes, it does seem the switch is working


That black wire is the one that should be carrying power in RUN mode. If it's been cut (and has been that way) then I'd say someone has been hacking with the wiring and there's not telling what's been done. Is it possible that it recently got inadvertantly cut? That would explain a lot...

Bear


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## vera_jr (Aug 17, 2012)

not likely. where is the pink wire going? Was it possibly removed when the car was converted to HEI?
ultimately I want to have the whole car rewired.


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## BearGFR (Aug 25, 2008)

The pink wire goes to the fuse block (right side, second from the bottom) and from the output side of that fuse it provides power to the turn signal flasher, then to the reverse light switch according to my diagram.


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## vera_jr (Aug 17, 2012)

well apparently the previous owner did some major hack work on the wiring on this car. I am bringing in a friend to trace this problem out. when it gets fixed, I will let you guys know what actually happened. I have some body work to do, but before I begin the interior work, I am probably going to have the car completely rewired.


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## vera_jr (Aug 17, 2012)

Ok. Final Verdict. The Car is running points. and everything in the distributor, coil, bulkhead, and ignition switch are working. The black wire that shares a spot with the pink wire off the ignition switch was cut before I had the car. There is a spot on the pink wire, higher in the dash, that another black wire was moved to and connects to the original black wire that sends the "Run" power to the coil. That wire was broken (dried up and cracked). I put the wire back together. Problem Solved.
Lesson Learned: Check all the simple things first. It usually isn't that hard.


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