# Header gasket blown...need advice....



## Eshack80 (Aug 18, 2010)

I have a 69' GTO with a 400 engine and it has Hedman Headers. I just got the new gaskets in. Any advice on changing the gaskets, that might help me, so I don't run into any problems?? Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Aaron


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## jetstang (Nov 5, 2008)

Collector, or block? No issues replacing, unbolt, install new, retighten, pretty straight forward.


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## likethat (Oct 5, 2007)

Did you check the head to make sure it isn't warped or cracked? It is very cheap to have a head cut straight again.


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## Jeff's Classics (Feb 24, 2010)

Be sure you get EVERY piece of the old gasket off the head and header before installing the new gaskets. I once replaced gaskets on a big block Chevy, didn't take the header all the way out thinking this was a quick easy job. When I started it up it ticked a little, so I tightened the bolts a little more, and then a little more, but the ticking didn't go away. Pulled the header back off and found a small piece of the old gasket still stuck on there. BUT, since I had continued to tighten the bolts I bent the header flange and wound up buying a new set of headers as a result of my stupidity.
Also, I recommend the Fel Pro composite header gaskets. They are re-useable and last for years. I have a set on my Corvette that was on the first engine when I blew it in 2004, still sealing great on the new engine seven years later. Just put a set on the GTO last year.


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## Eshack80 (Aug 18, 2010)

I pulled the entire gasket off, but there is one issue. The bolt to the right of the center part of the header is impossible to unscrew and tighted. I realized that the reason I have a leak on both sides of my engine is because of this previous owner never tightened this bolt. Any ideas on how to get to that bolt. Should i shave a wrench down?


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## Jeff's Classics (Feb 24, 2010)

Eshack80 said:


> I pulled the entire gasket off, but there is one issue. The bolt to the right of the center part of the header is impossible to unscrew and tighted. I realized that the reason I have a leak on both sides of my engine is because of this previous owner never tightened this bolt. Any ideas on how to get to that bolt. Should i shave a wrench down?


I went with ARP header bolts, which have a smaller head size. I think they use a 3/8" wrench, maybe 7/16"? Been too long, and I'm miles away from the car this weekend. If you want to stick with stock style bolts then I guess you'd have to shave the wrench head down, or you can try to dimple the header a little right where it meets the bolt.


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## likethat (Oct 5, 2007)

Allen Head bolt. They come in all shapes, sizes, and material. Like Stainless Steel. They are really handy for tight spots that you can't use an open end wrench on. I have some ball end Allen Keys that help with angles like that area your talking about. I would also use anti-seize on the threads. Any good supply store has the bolts. I like Tractor Supply for a chain store to buy bolts and screws from, because they are cheaper and sell by weight. I have a couple tool stores by me. That sell bolts, straps, and the such that are locally own that I like even better.


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## geeteeohguy (Feb 2, 2008)

I like likethat's solution. Personally, I have used shortened bolts sometimes, and I have ground down and bent "special" wrenches to do the job. You WILL be tightening them fairly regularly as part of the tubing header experience.


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