# Pitman Arm Nut Removal/Replacement



## 1970 Lemans (Jul 25, 2009)

I've noticed that the steering box appears to have a leak (or a few). After determining where the leak(s) are, I am considering removing it and replacing the suspect seals. 

Removal of the pitman nut seems straightforward, though given the amount of torque needed (140 ft/lb), what prevents the shaft that it is bolted to from also rotating as you try to get it on or off? Is it just the ignition lock-up or other?


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## geeteeohguy (Feb 2, 2008)

Just use and impact gun. Then you'll need a puller for the pitman arm. It's a press-on press-off fit. A word on the seals: real easy to cut the input shaft seal on the re-install, as the input shaft splines are about the same diameter as the seal. I just went thru this on my '67, and chose to replace the entire box. It was $135 at O=Reilly, and I used the "standard" ratio. A friend just put the "quick ratio" in his '67, and it's too touchy for him and too touchy for me, too. I was doing a major engine compartment rehad at the time, and just didn't have the time to mess with a gearbox overhaul. The kit is cheap: under $40, and instructions can be had on line. Good luck, whichever you choose.


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## 1970 Lemans (Jul 25, 2009)

geeteeohguy said:


> ... A word on the seals: real easy to cut the input shaft seal on the re-install, as the input shaft splines are about the same diameter as the seal. ...


One of the manuals that I was looking at mentioned this as a potential problem and stated that the splines should be wrapped with tape prior to fitting the seal.


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## geeteeohguy (Feb 2, 2008)

A plastic sleeve or heat shrink can be used, too. Anyway, it sounds like you've done your homework. Good luck with the overhaul!!


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## 1970 Lemans (Jul 25, 2009)

Anyway, back to my original question. Whether you use an impact wrench or a torque wrench you are still applying a torque to the nut. So what prevents the shaft from turning with it?

If it is the ignition lock-up, does that mean that you have to undo the pitman shaft nut before disconnecting from the steering column (via flexible link), and to then reconnect to the column before replacing the nut? 

TIA


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## freethinker (Nov 14, 2009)

1970 Lemans said:


> Anyway, back to my original question. Whether you use an impact wrench or a torque wrench you are still applying a torque to the nut. So what prevents the shaft from turning with it?
> 
> If it is the ignition lock-up, does that mean that you have to undo the pitman shaft nut before disconnecting from the steering column (via flexible link), and to then reconnect to the column before replacing the nut?
> 
> TIA


air wrenches work on the hammer principle. the internals of the ps unit will be enough to hold it while you tighten it..


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## BearGFR (Aug 25, 2008)

1970 Lemans said:


> I've noticed that the steering box appears to have a leak (or a few). After determining where the leak(s) are, I am considering removing it and replacing the suspect seals.
> 
> Removal of the pitman nut seems straightforward, though given the amount of torque needed (140 ft/lb), what prevents the shaft that it is bolted to from also rotating as you try to get it on or off? Is it just the ignition lock-up or other?


Depends....  If it's still in the car and connected to the center link, then you can immbolize it by "blocking" the steering (2x4 wedged between a spindle arm and the frame, or something to lock the steering wheel, for example - I'd use something like a "club" and not rely on the column's lock mechanism.). If it's out of the car, then just clamp it in a vise. Also, there are limiters inside the steering unit that won't allow the pitman arm to just spin in a ciricle, so once you bump up against one of those it's not going to turn any further. They're plenty capable of resisting a "mere" 140 lb/ft, but if you're concerned about it use one of the other methods to immobilize the arm.

Bear


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## 1970 Lemans (Jul 25, 2009)

Actually, I suppose disconnecting from the drag link makes the most sense, but folks seem to use a number of methods ... just trying to get educated as to what I should or shouldn't be concerned about.

On that note, another seemingly simple question about mechanical technique (to a non-mechanic). The power steering pressure hose is supposed to be torqued to ~35 lb/ft. My experience with torque wrenches is to stick on the correct size socket, adjust the wrench to the right number, fit it to the fastener and twist. But in the case of a hose, you obviously can't use a socket. I can use a line wrench to tighten, but can only know if it is tight enough by whether or not it leaks. What do you use to correctly torque the power steering line nut?


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## freethinker (Nov 14, 2009)

1970 Lemans said:


> Actually, I suppose disconnecting from the drag link makes the most sense, but folks seem to use a number of methods ... just trying to get educated as to what I should or shouldn't be concerned about.
> 
> On that note, another seemingly simple question about mechanical technique (to a non-mechanic). The power steering pressure hose is supposed to be torqued to ~35 lb/ft. My experience with torque wrenches is to stick on the correct size socket, adjust the wrench to the right number, fit it to the fastener and twist. But in the case of a hose, you obviously can't use a socket. I can use a line wrench to tighten, but can only know if it is tight enough by whether or not it leaks. What do you use to correctly torque the power steering line nut?


here is a little secret in the auto repair craft. you dont. after a while turning wrenches you get a feel for how much to tighten things. 
if as an auto tech you torqued every item exactly as the specs called for you would never make any money. now there are some things that must always be torqued like head gaskets and engine bearings ect.
that being said if you insist they do make adapters to torque lines.


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## 1970 Lemans (Jul 25, 2009)

freethinker said:


> here is a little secret in the auto repair craft. you dont. after a while turning wrenches you get a feel for how much to tighten things.
> if as an auto tech you torqued every item exactly as the specs called for you would never make any money. now there are some things that must always be torqued like head gaskets and engine bearings ect.
> that being said if you insist they do make adapters to torque lines.


I'm good with that, always thought that some of the torque spec stuff was overdone ... are the adapters something like crow's feet?


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## geeteeohguy (Feb 2, 2008)

Freethinker is right. I don't ever torque mine except for "feel". If you want to use a torque wrench, it's easy if you use a crows-foot on the end of a short extension. I've done it. As for the pitman nut, just take it off with an impact wrench. 2 seconds. Doesn't matter if the box is in car or not. Pulling off the arm with the puller is more difficult!


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## 1970 Lemans (Jul 25, 2009)

I would have thought pulling the arm with the puller would be reasonably straight forward. What difficulties are encountered with that?

I have never used an impact wrench, but my understanding is that the only difference between that and a torque wrench is the manner in which angular force is generated ... ultimately they both produce a torque on the nut.


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## likethat (Oct 5, 2007)

Adding a crows foot or any other socket that is not in direct line of the torque wrench will make the reading off. There are formulas that are used to make it correct. Or you can use your highly calibrated arm to tighten up this stuff. How tight is enough? A quarter turn before it breaks It only needs to be tight enough that it doesn't leak or suck air.


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