# Rear control arms bushing ?



## bondobill (Oct 24, 2011)

We got the rear diff out of my sons 68.
Installing qa1 coil over adjustable shocks on the rear.
Want to replace control arm bushing, these are the orginial... arms look kinda flimsy. Is it worth trying to replace the bushings.
He's looking at maybe replacing the control arms with some from Global West or Hotchkins. I am just trying to save him some money..hate to spend $100 on bushings and end up destroying the arms installing them. 

Any ideas or advice would be appreciated.

Thanks

Bill


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## BearGFR (Aug 25, 2008)

Actually, that twist is a good thing for the factory arms. If you're going to replace them, be sure and get lowers/uppers with joints in them that allow for the arms to twist. Sphereical joints/bushings on at least one end, or a 'swivel' joint. Stiffening up the arms so that they don't flex at all is a bad thing unless you use arms that allow for that type of 'swivel' movement because it causes everything to bind up in body roll conditions, such as in corners. 

Sometimes folks will swap in late model boxed lowers and also use hard urethane bushings, then wonder why the car rides and handles like a tractor. It's because any rotating movement of the rear axle (one rear wheel going "up" while the other is going "down" relative to the car body as viewed from the rear) causes everything in the rear suspension to bind up. It was only the 'twistiness' of the rear arms and the squishy rubber bushings that allowed that kind of movement at all from the factory, and even that was binding - it just wasn't as rigid.

I've got all Spohn stuff under my car and love it.

Bear


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## bondobill (Oct 24, 2011)

Dang Bear you da man... you just saved us from making a big mistake. Thank you my friend:cheers
We where looking at going with urethane bushings in the stock control arms or new boxed in control arms...heck I am a body guy...never claimed to know much about mechanics.
I got on the Spohn website, looks like really good products at a reasonable price.
Sons out to lunch now, I'll have him look on their site after lunch and let him decide...it's his car and money.


Thanks again 

Bill


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## geeteeohguy (Feb 2, 2008)

I've done a few of these cars using the Moog rubber bushings and stock arms, and it's still not cheap...those bushings are $$$$. The trick is to fill the void under the bushing with a c-shaped metal block or an old piece of pipe cut lengthwise so you don't press the arm ends into a wad of scrap metal. Not difficult, but it depends what results you're after. The upgrade Bear mentions makes a lot of sense.


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## Jeff's Classics (Feb 24, 2010)

I went with new reproductions of the factory boxed rear lower control arms with rubber bushings. I'm extremely happy with the ride and handing. but I can't say that it's all due to the lower arms because I added the rear reinforcement braces and factory style rear sway bar at the same time. Also added adjustable upper control arms so that I can adjust the pinion angle after the Gear Vendors OD is installed.
No detectable bind in the system, just a smooth firm ride.
Jeff


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## the65gto (Oct 9, 2008)

Jeff's Classics said:


> I went with new reproductions of the factory boxed rear lower control arms with rubber bushings. I'm extremely happy with the ride and handing. but I can't say that it's all due to the lower arms because I added the rear reinforcement braces and factory style rear sway bar at the same time. Also added adjustable upper control arms so that I can adjust the pinion angle after the Gear Vendors OD is installed.
> No detectable bind in the system, just a smooth firm ride.
> Jeff


Shoot us a pic + Source of your stuff!


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## Jeff's Classics (Feb 24, 2010)

Don't have a pic of the gear installed, but here is one I already had of the lower control arms (to the left), upper control arms, and 1" swaybar. Control arms came with bushings pre-installed, saves the time and hassle of pressing them in yourself. Not shown are the reinforcement braces. They are kind of a bitch to install but really tighten up the rear suspension mounting so you get better ride and handling with no negative side affects.
I'm also attaching a picture of the front suspension showing the big (1-5/16" IIRC) hollow sway bar I'm running up front. Best riding and handling muscle car I've ever owned, beats the pants off my '74 Corvette.

I bought adjustable upper control arms from Classic Performance Products.
Lower control arms, swaybar, and reinforcement braces from a local place in Houston called South Texas Muscle, but they are factory style pieces that you would have gotten if you ordered the handling package, so you can get the same stuff from Ames Performance.
Front swaybar is Hellwig.


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## Rukee (Feb 8, 2007)

NAPA has those bushings, I just installed some on the `65.
You can drive them out with a big hammer, then like mentioned above support the inside of the control arm to keep it from collapsing when you drive the new one in. I used a 1/2" drive socket inserted into the control arm. It took me like 15 minutes to remove the arm, change the bushings and reinstall the arm.


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## bondobill (Oct 24, 2011)

Need some help guys
Son purchased rear controls arms from Spohn
Also got the bushing for the differential. The bushings came with a separate collar. Any one know if that is needed and where ?








This way ?








This way ? or not used at all:confused








Also would we still use this bracket









Bill


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## BearGFR (Aug 25, 2008)

I see on your other thread you figured it out... :cheers

Yes, you do want to use those brackets you asked about. Those are braces that add strength to the control arm mounting points. Those are factory ones by the look of them.

Hi torque cars with good bite try to tear out the upper control arm mounts, and everything around there flexes. Those braces help keep that from happening.

Bear


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