# Full 1965 Quarter Panels?



## Wob (Dec 2, 2010)

Due to life being clearly so important that I was rushing out of a parking garage a little while back, I got too close to the concrete pillar and BAM! caught the passenger door and quarter almost right at the seam. It pulled the quarter back 3/4" of an inch and the pass door wont open now. So the door jamb where the door latch stud is bent back, the quarter at the door jamb is pulled back and the body crease that runs the length of the quarter up top is folded up. The wheel well got tapped in a hair too. 

Now, the good news the car is in process of body work and that quarter needed some work anyway, but it only needed it from the roof line back. I had hoped to "simply" replace with a full quarter panel, but it seems they are impossible to find. Does anyone know if they ar emade? I can't find them new or original. 

This will be my first real test of body panel replacement, so its gone from intimidating to "eeeeeeeeeeeee". I don't want to half ass it and do a skin and try to reform the body line, its one of my favorite parts of a 65 so it want it to be right. 

Clifs: anyone make a repro full quarter or know of a full used one for sale? 

Thanks
Rob


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## Thumpin455 (Feb 17, 2010)

All I could find were skins, I had to cut one off a Tempest that was rusting into the ground to get the upper part.


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## Wob (Dec 2, 2010)

I'm figuring thats what I will have to do as well. It's a shame because its a 90% rust free car, just with some idiot damage on the side now. GM Sport Salvage seems to always have cars in - hopefully I will be able to get an upper section from them.

BTW - love your thread on the resto. Amazing work in there.

EDIt: GM Sports Salvage doesnt have it.


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## Thumpin455 (Feb 17, 2010)

Thanks I am a beginner at body work. More of an engine, trans, and suspension guy. How bad is it? If the top isnt mangled too badly it could be reworked. The car I got mine from had the pass side crushed by a tree, so that one was out. Post some pics of it, I might have some parts that will fit it, like the door jamb area from the Tempest.


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## Wob (Dec 2, 2010)

Thanks Thumpin! 

So I took a few pics real fast. There were some shotty repairs on the 1/4 before I got it. Aweld bead on the body line and it was near a fire so there is that bubbly rust. I forgot to take a picture of the wheel well. The tire is verrry close to the lip on the well and rubs under big bumps.. Granted I have 275s in the rear, but they dindt rub before my screw up.

The bad prior weld job:


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## Thumpin455 (Feb 17, 2010)

Too bad you arent closer, I could fix that. Want to make a road trip and enjoy the Upper Peninsula for a week? I have a piece that could be used in the door jamb, the bit about two inches behind the jamb to the wheelwell is going on mine because of a dent and pinholes on the body line. 

Mine had the same shoddy repair work on the drivers side quarter, oxy acetylene welds with brass filling the holes, pretty ugly from before the mig was everywhere. It can be fixed with a mig or better yet a TIG welder to limit the heat in it. Right where that repair is was where the tree hit the Tempest, but I have some of that upper body line where the window is.

Both of my doors are crappy but I think you could fix that with some dolly/slap file work.

We could straighten it out and shoot some hotrod satin black on it if you could get it here. I think it would be a fun project, probably cost you $1000 in gas to get here and back.


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## Wob (Dec 2, 2010)

Thats very nice of you. I appreciate it, but escaping the city for a week isn't feasible for me.

I have a feeling I will need to get a skin and then have to learn to make a few hand formed pieces to get the door jamb right. The body crease is what I think will be hardest. If you have any spare panels that could be of use, i would be happy to buy them.

This is the area I really need:










Its needs a drop off panel too, but that doesnt worry me much.


I figure if I make the cut of the 1/4 here:










I can hammer back the door jamb, and make some small bits to fill in the gaps.


The trickiest part to me seems to be the buckle in the body crease and the existing magma welds on the body line. That's why I think I need a whole section as outlined above. I am not a body guy at all, like you I am a engine and suspension guy.


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## Josh.AZ.GTO (Jul 11, 2009)

I know a guy who lives here in the valley and who is the person I bought my 70 from, he has about anything you can think of for a GTO. He had a restoration business and only restored Goats. Unfortunately his father became ill and is now selling off his shop. 

Being in LA, this might be an option, Phoenix is kinda close. 

Here is his craigslist add about selling parts. 

1965 -1972 Pontiac GTO Parts


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## Wob (Dec 2, 2010)

WHOA JOSH!!! Thank you! I just wrote him an email and even attached my spreadsheet of needs if he really wants to empty his shop. Wow, fingers corssed I could get a lot of stuff I need!!

Sorry to hear about his loss though.

PS just want to interject I love my Pontiac. I daily drive it now and will even after I finish the restoration. I think its just about one of the coolest cars on earth, so great to have others like you guys in the same boat providing insight. Thanks.


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## Thumpin455 (Feb 17, 2010)

Check my thread, I only need the part where I cut my quarter, the door jamb and upper part on the patch piece is in good shape. I can box it and send it off if there is enough there to work with, just send me a PM with an address. Hopefully the lead in Pheonix pans out, I would kill something to get some rust free metal.

Insight is nice, I also show people what the inside of their cars look like..


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## Wob (Dec 2, 2010)

you have a PM Thumpin.


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## Wob (Dec 2, 2010)

There is a section of the body crease that was welded so the shape is totally gone - it is just a bead that kind of squiggles over the crease and down the 1/4 panel to thw wheel well. The concave area of the body line to the roof has a bead and some warpage too. If I can't get a full 1/4 panel, what are your thoughts on me using the lead or lead free solder from Eastwood to reform it? 

Thanks!


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## Thumpin455 (Feb 17, 2010)

In the 60s 70s and 80s they were not concerned with doing it right, they wanted to do it fast and get it out the door. They didnt take the time to make it last, and you find all sorts of crap work done. Plastic filler was new in the 70s and 80s so there are lots of bad repairs where it rusts under the filler. Mig welders werent big in most places until the late 80s so the repairs were all gas welding with brass filler, not the best way to do it. I cut all that stuff out and weld it again with the Mig, it also gives me the chance to move stuff around if it is not in the right place. Lots of work doing that.

That messed up previous repair might be able to be bumped around or rewelded, finding a whole quarter is best though. Filling it with the lead or something similar would be better than having half an inch of bondo or more in that area. If the bondo gets too thick it cracks and falls off in chunks. Right there is almost impossible to get behind because the wheel house is there, and the trunk support is in the way too. A cut right down the middle of the quarter will require filler almost the entire length of the repair unless it is welded straight, that is what I found on my car.

Its the other side but this is what you are dealing with in there. You can see how close it all is and where it is supported. The wheelhouse might be crushed or moved around like mine was too, so you might end up taking the whole thing off to rework it anyway. If I had the full piece for the top I would ship it to you, the bottom pics is all I have.


























Here is the piece I have, the rest of it was crushed and I only needed the lower part.


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## Wob (Dec 2, 2010)

Great, great advice Thumpin. I am going to keep my fingers crossed for a whole 1/4 but its doesn't seem I am getting one any time soon to say the least. it seems like I will be learning leading for the "scoop" of the body line to the roof as well. I will likely try to lead the 1/4 panel cuts as well. It will make me feel better than the plastic stuff. I would imagine I will still have to run a thin coat after leading but it wont be a measurable layer.

Ill take that piece too! My car is coupe, how does that window frame area attach to the quarter? Does it follow generally the same fit and I could cut it and do a little proposed magic?

Thanks for the thoroughness! Much appreciated.


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## Thumpin455 (Feb 17, 2010)

I can cut it off and shape it right for a hardtop. I did it with the drivers side quarter since it came off the same car.


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## Wob (Dec 2, 2010)

Thumpin you are official the man. Probably be easier to ship as well. Let me know whenever you are ready to ship etc. Take your time I am in not in a rush. Thanks again.


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## Thumpin455 (Feb 17, 2010)

Just PM your address and I will send it out next week with UPS. Do you want it bead blasted to get all the paint and rust off? I can put some primer on it or leave it as is. Up to you.


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