# DIY Aux in w/Pic's



## exwrx (Apr 5, 2007)

Please see above thread on how to remove dash. Once the entire dash is disassembled, follow the steps below for aux in install.

Parts needed.....

1. RCA - Mini cable 6 ft.
2. Round or any rocker switch
3. Electrical Tape
4. Duct or Carton tape
5. Razor blade/ xacto knive
6. Solder 
7. Soldering Gun/stick
8. Unibit (large)
9. Drill

To begin... pull radio harness out. It should like like ....


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## exwrx (Apr 5, 2007)

Locate the Blue/Black and solid Blue wires.










Strip a section of these wires


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## exwrx (Apr 5, 2007)

Take your RCA-Mini cable, and cut the RCA end... "NOT" the mini end/headphone 3.5mm jack.

Strip the wires, left and right will have a negative/ground wire wrapped around another shielded wire in a colored loom. The shielded is your positive.

Twist the two negtive/ground wires together, making one lead approx. 1 inch long.

Also twist the two Positive wires together so that you end up with a stripped wire lead of approx .5 inches.










In the pic... I'm showing the end you shoul've cut off.


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## exwrx (Apr 5, 2007)

Connect positive leads to the AF+ line of the radio. It's the Blue/Black wire. Solder and tape these.


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## exwrx (Apr 5, 2007)

Solder Negative leads to the AF- Line... or Solid blue line










Tape up all the negative wiring, also wrapping the previously taped positive leads with the same tape strip.










Again... if you see the RCA end on the end of your line... as in the pic... YOU DID IT WRONG!!! I used a female RCA lead, and then connected a male RCA-Mini cable.... hence the RCA in all the pic's.


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## exwrx (Apr 5, 2007)

Pull ashtray. It's held in by 3 screws at the 9, 12, and 3 o'clock positions.










Disconnect the Cig-light plug located in the passenger side, under the radio. It's a white plug.


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## exwrx (Apr 5, 2007)

Drill a hole in the Shifter panel for the rocker switch, and one for the Mini jack.




























Now solder two wire leads to the rocker switch. Use a multimeter/ground meter to test the wire leads and ensure that you did it right. You should get continuity/nothing when switching on/off


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## exwrx (Apr 5, 2007)

To fit the panel back in the car, you must cut an a/c vent. A notch must be made to accomodate the new switch.



















After the cut, place tape or other covering/molding over the hole, allowing for clearance of the new rocker switch.


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## exwrx (Apr 5, 2007)

Locate negative (black/White), and Tel Mute (yellow/black) wires on harness, and strip a small section.










Install shifter panel and pull wires through to the radio end, as well as run the RCA cable.










Now solder and tape the two leads from the rocker switch... one to the Tel mute, and the other to the Ground. It won't matter which goes where, only that they're separate.




















Test the switch, by connecting harness to radio. When flipping the switch you should get a voice-in message


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## exwrx (Apr 5, 2007)

Re-assemble the dash and !!!Enjoy!!!arty:arty:arty:arty:


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## exwrx (Apr 5, 2007)

a quick video for those who didn't believe it could be done.... Scosche, Metra, Peripheral, Pontiac, GM, Blaupunkt, PIE...etc.... choke on this!!!


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## exwrx (Apr 5, 2007)

The only hitch is that since the radio is fooled into believing it's making a phone call, it won't turn off when the switch is on ... lol. Also, "Mode" is disabled when in Aux mode.


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## exwrx (Apr 5, 2007)

*Finished Pic's*

Some pic's of what it looks like when done. You can't see the switch, or cable hole, unless you drop into the footwell looking for it.


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## exwrx (Apr 5, 2007)

Also.... anyone in the area that would like this done and needs help, come one by. I work from home, and would be more than willing to help out. If you're really nice, I might even do it for you. I "don't" take cash, credit, check or other monetary compensation, though beer and pizza are always welcome.


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## PDQ GTO (Jun 21, 2007)

I feel kinda silly asking this, but what the hell did you install...:confused


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## exwrx (Apr 5, 2007)

No problem... :lol: Life's all about learning!

It's an auxilliary input. You can now play any audio source....i.e. iPod, mp3 player, portable dvd, phone, etc.... through your factory stereo.

Watch the vid in the previous post. It'll show you how it works.


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## PDQ GTO (Jun 21, 2007)

Gotcha...Thanks for the clarification. Makes sense now…



exwrx said:


> No problem... :lol: Life's all about learning!
> 
> It's an auxilliary input. You can now play any audio source....i.e. iPod, mp3 player, portable dvd, phone, etc.... through your factory stereo.
> 
> Watch the vid in the previous post. It'll show you how it works.


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## Rukee (Feb 8, 2007)

Anything you plug in and run through the radio is now going to be mono, right?


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## Rukee (Feb 8, 2007)

exwrx said:


> Watch the vid in the previous post. It'll show you how it works.


Supertramp?? :lol::willy::rofl::willy::lol::cheers


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## exwrx (Apr 5, 2007)

Yes sir!!! The unfortunate side effect of using the telephone input is that is in mono, though with some ipod recordings having vocals on one side, instrumentals on another, it ends up working out quite nicely. One odd thing is that the volume for the voice-in mode is independent of the rest of the stereo. 

Let's say I turn my AM/FM/CD to 30... it remains at those volumes regardless of switching between the 3. Now the Voice in, remains at the volume it was last played at. So if you were cranking it, turned off your car, got back in later and played the radio at soft volumes and then switched to Voice-in.... you're in for a surprise :lol: . 

Sound quality is excellent though, as it's a direct in. I'm looking at low amp relays that could be wired to a jack, negating the switch. Specifically, I'm looking at something that will "click" over using the small output from a headphone jack on portable devices at low volumes (.1 -.5 volts). That way, the radio would switch automatically everytime the units is plugged in and played. Also, I didn't get a chance to further test the Remote Ground on the pin cluster, to see if it would trigger the voice-in mode, or provided a ground when in voice-in mode. 

This is just one option that is simple and extremly cost effective. Not counting tools, this can be done for $10 with a $4 switch, and $6 cable. I've been pondering more "trick" (pardon the ebonics here) options as I'm going along. I also know that this will work on any Audi, VW, Porsche, older BMW radio's that have the telephone pins, or aux pins in the radio. If anyone needs to know whether it would work, just shoot me a pic of the back/pin cluster, or diagram.

I'd really like this to be a starting platform, as this is a first effort, and hence far from perfect. Any improvements, recommendations, or evolutions from this idea are absolutely welcome, and would love to hear some feedback from others out there. One option I liked, but didn't think of until afterwards was to make a jack-input, rather than running the cable.

I've seen the aux mods done on LS1GTO.Com, some which were executed very well, but didn't like the tapping/taking apart of the OEM stereo, or the non-universal 2.5mm jack. Almost all portable devices, except cellphones, use a 3.5 headphone jack, necessitating a reducer/adapter. Furthermore, the need for a blank CD was really discouraging for me as well. It just seemed too low rent for this caliber car. As far as I know, I haven't seen anyone else taking this route/approach to enabling an aux, though I'd imagine someone on a VW/Audi/Porsche forum has, or at least performed it without posting.


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## exwrx (Apr 5, 2007)

I should re-phrase that.... most portable audio outputs are a 3.5mm headphone style jack. 2.5mm is the universal standard in some applications, and should therefore not be labeled as the opposite.... my bad.


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## Rukee (Feb 8, 2007)

Are there any other inputs in that radio plug beside the phone?


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## exwrx (Apr 5, 2007)

Rukee said:


> Are there any other inputs in that radio plug beside the phone?


There are no pin accommodations for an aux. That may not mean that the board itself wouldn't be capable of supporting one. Board-sharing, like platform sharing is pretty common in radio's from a given mfg., and the top most bar usually has 3 pin sections. The first, going left to right looking at the back of the deck, is a CD Changer section, usually accomodating a power source, and data pin. That one can't be used for an aux, or rather is beyond my abilities (Minor in Engineering, Major in Philosophy, Doctorate in pissing off the competition). I'm sure you could make some interface that communicates properly with the unit, converting an audio feed into the proper data signal, but it seems excessively difficult considering the other options available. It is theoretically possible to have control over the mobile device from the radio if the interface could communicate both ways. It is after all a 2-way data system, as the Changer would take commands from the deck, the deck then receiving audio data.

The middle plug/cluster of the top row, is the phone pin cluster, it has a AF+, AF- and Remote ground. I'm not sure whether the remote ground wire could trigger voice in mode, or is a ground for the unit attached to it when in voice-in mode.... similar to an armed ground on a alarm. I didn't check when I did my install. I was too excited to get it going and yank the Drive and Play. I do know that it's not a resting/constant ground, meaning it reads a low voltage when the radio is on/plugged in.

The Right plug/cluster of the top row is a direct aux in. It's a 3 pin in, L+, R+ and a shared -. Now there are no pins for the left, or right section on the back of the radio, but that may not mean that the AUX board/soldering points aren't there. 

I don't know if I'd want to take it apart though. It would defeat the purpose of this install being a DIY. As is, I can still pull the radio and bring it to the dealer without any issues if it were to fail, or need service. I wouldn't have that option if I pulled/modified the board. These other options would be worth exploring on vehicles that have the pins readily available. My neighbor owns a porsche clinic/shop. Maybe I can get him to let me look at some of the decks. I know he's really interested in this aux-in mod, as many of his customers ask about something like this. I'll also look for some BP radio's at my old shop. I might be able to borrow one for a few days and see/check out the other pins. For now... we'll just say " to be continued...."


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## RedCavyRS99 (May 22, 2008)

nice work came out very clean.


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## Ronin GTO (May 28, 2008)

exwrx said:


> There are no pin accommodations for an aux. That may not mean that the board itself wouldn't be capable of supporting one. Board-sharing, like platform sharing is pretty common in radio's from a given mfg., and the top most bar usually has 3 pin sections. The first, going left to right looking at the back of the deck, is a CD Changer section, usually accomodating a power source, and data pin. That one can't be used for an aux, or rather is beyond my abilities (Minor in Engineering, Major in Philosophy, Doctorate in pissing off the competition). I'm sure you could make some interface that communicates properly with the unit, converting an audio feed into the proper data signal, but it seems excessively difficult considering the other options available. It is theoretically possible to have control over the mobile device from the radio if the interface could communicate both ways. It is after all a 2-way data system, as the Changer would take commands from the deck, the deck then receiving audio data.
> 
> The middle plug/cluster of the top row, is the phone pin cluster, it has a AF+, AF- and Remote ground. I'm not sure whether the remote ground wire could trigger voice in mode, or is a ground for the unit attached to it when in voice-in mode.... similar to an armed ground on a alarm. I didn't check when I did my install. I was too excited to get it going and yank the Drive and Play. I do know that it's not a resting/constant ground, meaning it reads a low voltage when the radio is on/plugged in.
> 
> ...


Just FYI, there is another way to add an Aux-in that requires some minor soldering to the main board. This is done with 4 small wires with capacitors (2.2uf polarized) connecting to 2 seperate areas on the board that coincide with the onboard chip. While your install does seem much more simple, I'm curious as to how it sounds. My only concern is that the source wouldn't come through in true stereo. I say this because the phone input is only mono but you seemed to have tapped into the actual H/U itself.

I've attached some rough diagrams detailing how the internal mod is done. Note that it requires an 1/8" switched jack that you can buy at Radio Shack. 5 wires will come from the jack (2 positive, 2 negative, and 1 ground) and 4 of them will terminate with a 2.2uf capacitor (2 will be positive, 2 negative). The other end of the capacitor will be soldered into the points specified and the ground will be attached to the H/U chassis. Once this is done, there are no CD's required in order to play your MP3, IPod, SatRadio, etc. When nothing is plugged into the jack, you have an open circuit just as normal. Once you plug into the jack, it closes the circuit and switches to your Aux. unit. The sound quality is very good and, because it is going directly into the board, has almost no signal loss.

*exwrx*: I've also attached the datasheet for the processor. You are correct that sharing can and is done on the board. Also the second diagram shows the use of a 5-pin (or 4-pin + seperate ground since I can't seem to find a 5-pin) connector which will allow for quick disconnect if you want or have to take out the H/U. As an added note, the 3rd diagram shows in picture form just where the wires go. It also shows that the caps that were removed from those points are being used again. Most have found that new caps are better than the ones that were removed though so keep that in mind.

If you or anyone else is interested or has any questions, feel free to let me know. I didn't come up with this mod and all credit goes to those who were brave enough (and smart enough) to fiddle around with the insides until they got it to work. :cheers


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## exwrx (Apr 5, 2007)

Amen Brother!! lol. Great post! 

I think this should be stickied, as it's the most comprehensive thread on this issue on any forum I've seen so far. 

In regards to sound in mono... it's actually pretty amazing, better than the radio, and on par... of not better than the CD because of the gain difference. The original intention for that input was probably a super-low input signal (a fraction of a volt) , not an iPod or other portable device pushing as much as 3 volts. 

Consider that we're using a OEM radio, and a MP3 storage media. Any audiophile... me included... would shudder at the though of hearing in mono...Or an MP3 recording.... On that note, a LP recording doesn't have a stereo track... does it? Someone PM me on that, as it's been a while since LP's for me. lol. 

Lastly, the diagram, of the relay provided (5 wire jack) is/should also be capable of switching the ground on the Aux I showed, negating the need for a switch. Someone take a pic of the 5 wire jack/relay and provide a part# for us. lol.


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## Rukee (Feb 8, 2007)

Ronin GTO said:


> Just FYI, there is another way to add an Aux-in that requires some minor soldering to the main board. This is done with 4 small wires with capacitors (2.2uf polarized) connecting to 2 seperate areas on the board that coincide with the onboard chip. While your install does seem much more simple, I'm curious as to how it sounds. My only concern is that the source wouldn't come through in true stereo. I say this because the phone input is only mono but you seemed to have tapped into the actual H/U itself.
> 
> I've attached some rough diagrams detailing how the internal mod is done. Note that it requires an 1/8" switched jack that you can buy at Radio Shack. 5 wires will come from the jack (2 positive, 2 negative, and 1 ground) and 4 of them will terminate with a 2.2uf capacitor (2 will be positive, 2 negative). The other end of the capacitor will be soldered into the points specified and the ground will be attached to the H/U chassis. Once this is done, there are no CD's required in order to play your MP3, IPod, SatRadio, etc. When nothing is plugged into the jack, you have an open circuit just as normal. Once you plug into the jack, it closes the circuit and switches to your Aux. unit. The sound quality is very good and, because it is going directly into the board, has almost no signal loss.
> 
> ...



Nice post! This sounds like the correct way of doing it. I personally would not do the other way just cause of the MONO status. The 5 pin connector, you mount that onto the radio? Or mount it in the dash or center consol somewhere accessible?


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## exwrx (Apr 5, 2007)

Rukee said:


> Nice post! This sounds like the correct way of doing it. I personally would not do the other way just cause of the MONO status. The 5 pin connector, you mount that onto the radio? Or mount it in the dash or center consol somewhere accessible?


From the diagram... the connector wouldn't, or needn't be accesible. It's a connecting point/relay that triggers the aux once voltage is sent through the "+" side. To be exact, the caps ensure the proper voltage being fed through the radio, preventing any damage to the circuit components. The radio would see/sense voltage on the aux-in, and autmatically switch over.

The question now is whether some display message would appear. It wouldn't provide the "voice-in" message, as that's designated to the phone. Anyone do this yet?

These two are different means of accomplishing the same goal. What I really like about this so far is that both are extremely inexpensive. Neither one would require more than $20 in parts. The difference is in skill required to perform the install. Another plus is that "if" I ever ordered the BT kit for my car, or had one already, I now have an alternative for an aux.

I'm excited to find some other people here actually providing feedback, info, suuggestions that are furthering the cause.... evolving this project and giving people more than one option.


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## Ronin GTO (May 28, 2008)

Okay, just to give everyone a little insight on this topic, it was something that was brought up in another forum. A few of the technical folks started reading the chip schematics and messing around with the main board. After some trial and error from quite a few people, they pretty much collaborated and came up with the final product. There are a lot of Goat owners who are using this mod and even doing it for others. I for one did the mod myself and found that, even though I hadn't soldered in quite some time, it was pretty simple.

As for the jack, you want a 1/8” Normally Closed Stereo Phono Jack *(Radio Shack part number 274-246). *You can mount the jack anywhere you want to. I drilled a small hole in my center console right next to my cup holders. Then I used a small counter-sink bit so that the jack would be flush when it was mounted. All the wire is run under the center console so you never see it. As for any sort of display, since the Aux. source is being fed directly into the chip, there will be no display showing Aux-in. Whatever you are playing at the time of connection (AM/FM/CD) will remain displayed. The jack will just "switch" the chip and bypass the circuit, feeding the signal from your Aux. source, thus allowing the signal to be heard. Right now I'm working on getting 2 Aux-inputs to work. One will be for my Sirius and the other will be in the center console for my MP3 player. This will require some sort of switch that will allow A (Sirius) to be the default while it is powered on. Once it is powered off, it would switch to B (MP3). If B is not connected, then the H/U would play. I'll let you know how it works once I get the bugs worked out. 

Here is the actual write-up from one of the guys who figured this mod out. As I said, I take no credit for this and am just re-posting it for everyones info:

_*Tools needed:*_

_*Soldering Iron with a small tip*_
_*Phillips screw driver*_
_*Stubby phillips screw driver*_
_*T-9 torx driver*_
_*T-10 torx driver*_
_*Small pick or pocket screw driver*_
_*Helping Hands (holding device) optional but very helpful*_
_*I think thats about it. I found a small torx bit driver at Home Depot with interchanging bits, starts at 15 and goes down to 4. *_

_*1. Remove center console top (cup holder). Remove the screw in the front under the ashtray. Pull up starting at the rear and work forward. Use care and pull close to the clips.*_

_*2. Remove the top center dash cover (black piece over the A/C vents)*_

_*3. Remove 4 scews from the top trim piece above the A/C vents. Stubby screw driver needed for the 2 top ones. I found that if you pull the trim piece and release the radio retainer springs at the same time the radio pops out easily.*_

_*Note: The radio holds the trim in place.*_

_*Radio disassembly:*_

_*1. Remove the four T-9 face plate scews. Use care, the wire pig tail is short, disconnect it.*_

_*2. Remove the 4 T-10 screws holding the C/D changer portion of the radio. With the front of the radio facing away, lift off the changer and tilt it to the left and set it on it's side. Push the locking tab on the wire tape connector to the left and carefully remove the wire tape.*_

_*3. Turn the receiver over and remove the 2 T-10 screws from the bottom cover and remove it. The circuit board will now be exposed, use caution not to scratch it. Also use care not to shock the board with static electricity.*_

_*4. From the top side locate the capacitors C1528 and C1529. Note the position of the stripe, this indicates polarity. Positive towards prossesor.*_

_*5. Set the radio on it's side and heat the capacitor wires enough to soften the solder and straighten the wires, use caution not to over heat anything. You may have to repeat several times to get them straight. Now heat them and pull 'em out. I used a piece of wire to suck up the excess solder.*_

_*6. Solder caps to the wire using flux to insure a good clean connection, the replacements I got had wires at each end and marked with an arrow indicating polarity. Use different color wire or mark them someway so you can determine which goes where ie. left and right and polarity. Trim the wire on the caps. down to about an inch. Solder 2wires to the positive end of 2 caps and 2 to the neg. end of 2 caps. You should now have 4 wires soldered to 4 caps.*_
_** Wires should be aprox. 18" long, if you are going to use the 5 pin connector. If you are not using the connector make them as long as needed and feed enough through the radio holes, slots in the back of the radio, to allow you to work away from the radio internals. *_

_*7. Solder in the new caps. I don't recommend using flux on the board because the solder could run and cause a short. Work on one area at a time ie. C1528 or C1529. *_
_**If you are not using the 5 pin connector slide enough shrink wrap over the wires to completely cover the caps. and the solder connections now.*_
_*Place one cap. in the hole closest to the prossesor with the arrow pointing down, pos. to board. The caps. should be about 1/2 inch off the board. Carefully solder it in place, remember to move the shrink wrap away from the heat. Place another in the other hole furthest from the prossesor with the arrow pointing up, neg. to board. Repeat for the other caps. If you have the front of the radio facing away from you the pos. will be on the left. After all 4 caps are in place, slide the shink wrap over the caps. and all the way down to the board and carefully heat it starting from the board and working up. This should ensure no wires short out after intall.*_

_**If you are not using 5 pin connector skip step 8.*_

_**8. Install connector. You should have all 4 caps. installed with shrink wrap insulating the caps/wires/connections. Feed the wires through the holes (slots) in the back of the radio. Cut wires equal length, aprox. 10-12 inches out of the back of the radio. install the terminals and slide them into the connector, I crimped and soldered them. Remember to note which wire is where. *_

_*9. Installing the 1/8" jack. Pin 5 goes to the positive side of the board, side closest to the prossesor C1529 via's. Pin 4 to neg C1529. Pin 2 to pos. C1528 via's. Pin 3 to neg. C1528. Pin 1 to ground. See post 191, but ignore the polarity of the caps.*_

_*10. Install the stereo jack and run the wire harness up and behind the A/C controls. Slide the radio into the center dash trim, feed the Aux in harness up through the hole in the top of the radio carrier and behind the A/C controls. Connect the Aux in harness and the hazard switch plug. Pull up lightly on the Aux in harness as you push the radio in so it doesn't get bunched up behind the radio. Fully seat the radio and check the fuction of the Aux in. If it doesn't work YOUR SCREWED. No seriously everything should be fine, if not recheck to make sure the I-pod plug is fully seated and the radio is set to tuner (AM FM).*_

_*11. Renstall trim pieces making sure everthing is connected properly.*_

_*NOTE: Your turn signals will not work unless the haz. switch is connected.*_
_*NOTE: The TC and door lock connectors are the same, I plugged mine in wrong and the doors locked when I pushed the TC switch.*_
_*NOTE: Remove the rubber tray liner in the front, under the ashtray, it makes it easier to reinstall the center console cover*_
_*NOTE: Don't forget to turn off the I-pod, it will not shut off automatically*_

*If for some reason you don't feel comfortable doing this mod yourself, I can put you in touch with a guy who has done this many times for other Goat owners. He has 2 different ways of doing it. One is to install the connector in one of the holes that you use to remove the H/U. It's flush mounted and looks pretty good if you want to connect your MP3 player that way. The other way is with about a 3ft cable that you can install in your center console as I mentioned above. I believe he charges about $45 for the cable and $50 for the jack in the removal hole, and all that is required is that you ship your H/U to him and pay for return postage. He usually does it and ships it back to you the same day. Everyone who has had him do this mod for them has been pleased and I have yet to hear any negative comments. Just another alternative.*


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## Ronin GTO (May 28, 2008)

Since I already posted 5 pics above, here are a few more of the work he does:


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## exwrx (Apr 5, 2007)

Great feedback and info Ronin. Let me know if you need help with the relay pack. You can use a double relay system, or a audio relay switch. If you're planning on making it easy, a rocker switch, from "A" to "B", would be the obvious choice. If you simply want two jacks, no rocker, we'll have to find a extremely low amp relay, or rather 2 of them.... something I've been looking for since the original install. Lol. The relay would have to click at less than .1 volts in order for an ipod/mp3 player to trigger it.


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## Ronin GTO (May 28, 2008)

Rukee said:


> Nice post! This sounds like the correct way of doing it. I personally would not do the other way just cause of the MONO status. The 5 pin connector, you mount that onto the radio? Or mount it in the dash or center consol somewhere accessible?


Sorry Rukee, I think I might have missed your question or at least misunderstood it. If you are asking about the 5-pin connector I was refering to in order to be able to disconnect the H/U, then it would be a 5-pin Molex connector. Now I say 5-pin because that would be optimum but, for some reason, I can't seem to find a 5-pin Molex. They are either 4-pin or 6-pin but the diagram that I attached clearly shows a 5-pin connector. 

At any rate, it would be run inline, probably only 4-6 inches from the H/U. My solution for this little problem would be to run the 4 wires into a 4-pin Molex and then run the ground into a 1 pin. You would still be able to disconnect everything but you would have to do so with 2 connectors instead of 1. I hope that makes sense and aswers your question. :cool

Paul


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## exwrx (Apr 5, 2007)

If radioshack is failing you, try a local electronics parts, aviation, or even Fry's.


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## Ronin GTO (May 28, 2008)

exwrx said:


> If radioshack is failing you, try a local electronics parts, aviation, or even Fry's.


I've tried everywhere, even online electronics stores. I know they have to exist since it clearly shows the 5-pin connector in the diagrams. I just can't, for the life of me, find one.


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## pat99 (Jan 8, 2009)

i know this thread is old but what year is this in? 04 or a newer one? or are they both the same
thanks


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## exwrx (Apr 5, 2007)

It'll work in ALL 2004-2006 GTO's or any radio with a Blaupunkt/VW/Audi/Porsche circuit board.


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## Gus Pech750 (Jan 18, 2009)

do these mods also charge the i-pod too?


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## exwrx (Apr 5, 2007)

No. They only provide you with an audio in.


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## pat99 (Jan 8, 2009)

alrite sweet thanks a lot man


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## pat99 (Jan 8, 2009)

sorry for the stupid question but what do you mean when you say it only plays in mono?


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## exwrx (Apr 5, 2007)

all your speakers will play exactly the same thing. Some songs will have different tracks for left/right channels. They will come out on all your speakers now. There's no difference in sound quality, only the audio effect of left/right is lost. 

Let's say you're watching a movie on your ipod, and a plane flies across the screen. With headphones you'd hear the plane in one ear, then progress to the other, matching the screen. This won't happen in Mono. You'll just hear the plane, without the effect of it flying by.


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## ChevyLT1Camaro94 (Jan 30, 2009)

so uh, theres a better way of doing this haha. without tapping wires. u can go to thebluetooth plug thats hidden behind the pass side center panel. simply put tinned wires into the corresponding pin holes. heres the pinout of the bluetooth plug, and the location. if u want to u can even go 2 the parts dept and buy the phone connector and make it removable! lol just an idea. just thought this would be EASIER and less DESTRUCTIVE lol same results


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## 06goatm6 (Dec 5, 2008)

*So then............ is this the right assumption?*

So if I'm reading this correctly then the toggle switch would go from pin 2 to pin 4 to put the radio into voice in mode. And then the + and - would go on pin 5(+) and pin 6 (-). Input from exwrx and chevylt1camaro would be help full.
And by the way thanks for this guys. I hate the idea of a blank CD, would never mess with the inside of my stock headunit (too much hassle for the small gain, id just buy a new Head Unit) and I believe exwrx when he says that the mono input doesn't really affect listening.


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## stickpony (Oct 26, 2008)

anybody know how to add pre-amp outputs to the stock radio?


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## Monaro CV6 (Oct 29, 2010)

A simple solution. I bought one of those fm ipod transmitters. It surprised me how clear the sound was, it charges and is simple to use. I just keep mine in the cetre console. No wiring or pcb mods to do and my car stays original.

Cheers Geoff


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## houston_four (Dec 16, 2010)

I did this today. It switches fine but I have to turn the volume all the way up to get any sound. Then the bass gets distorted. What did I do wrong?


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## john.rowe (Feb 18, 2011)

how long did all of that take you?


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## bignikk (Nov 14, 2010)

I realise this is an old thread, but I have a question please. According to "ChevyLT1Camaro94" there is a Blue tooth plug in the car already? I would LOVE to have my bluetooth tellephone sync up with the car since today I am using my Garmin Nuvi GPS' FM Modulator to connect my telephone and use the car speakers. But, If I was able to get real bluetooth out of this car, I would be ecstatic. Any info. would be VERY much appreciated.

Thanks so much everyone,
NK!!


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## mikes06goat (Jan 13, 2009)

ChevyLT1Camaro94 said:


> so uh, theres a better way of doing this haha. without tapping wires. u can go to thebluetooth plug thats hidden behind the pass side center panel. simply put tinned wires into the corresponding pin holes. heres the pinout of the bluetooth plug, and the location. if u want to u can even go 2 the parts dept and buy the phone connector and make it removable! lol just an idea. just thought this would be EASIER and less DESTRUCTIVE lol same results


So you still have to wire up a switch or just wire the 3.5 jack directly to those pin outs?


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## pocketmaster (Feb 26, 2010)

The easiest, safest and cheapest route is to buy an FM modulator. $30 and no tearing into your car.


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## Mddrummer911 (Jul 9, 2011)

ChevyLT1Camaro94 said:


> so uh, theres a better way of doing this haha. without tapping wires. u can go to thebluetooth plug thats hidden behind the pass side center panel. simply put tinned wires into the corresponding pin holes. heres the pinout of the bluetooth plug, and the location. if u want to u can even go 2 the parts dept and buy the phone connector and make it removable! lol just an idea. just thought this would be EASIER and less DESTRUCTIVE lol same results


has anyone tried this using this plug as he suggested? I agree with all of the posts, obviously taping into the board to achieve stereo would produce better quality, however i dont feel capable of doing that myself and paying someone to do it defeats the point. where as this seems much simplier, and mono is fine with me since i will just be using an ipod anyway...and this is only temp for me untill I can save enough to get a decent unit with gps and all....any feedback on this would be appreciated! thanks


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## Mddrummer911 (Jul 9, 2011)

Ok update it does work using this plug, only difference is the ground wire is different color from the orriginal write up (behind the radio). Overall a success for a $10 mod. Clear sound, but it doesn't allow use of the equalizer, so it's a bit flat... Probably since it's designed for voice calls only. But hey I have $10 bucks in it and it's better than before.


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## HP11 (Apr 11, 2009)

Now, if the radio itself wasn't such a POS.....but that's another story.


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## AlaGreyGoat (Jul 6, 2006)

HP11 said:


> Now, if the radio itself wasn't such a POS.....but that's another story.



:agree TOTALLY!


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## Mddrummer911 (Jul 9, 2011)

HP11 said:


> Now, if the radio itself wasn't such a POS.....but that's another story.


Agreed! This is just a temp mod for me untill I can afford a good double din unit with gps and all. However I do like the steering wheel controls and display on the speedometer. Also still haven't figured out what to do as far as a sub... Already have a L7 12 and a 5 channel kicker amp, just the lack of trunk space and the fuel tank divider stumps me.... Heck I may take out one of the back seats, realistically I will never have 4 people in my car


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## bbb4640 (Sep 6, 2011)

Mddrummer911 said:


> Ok update it does work using this plug, only difference is the ground wire is different color from the orriginal write up (behind the radio). Overall a success for a $10 mod. Clear sound, but it doesn't allow use of the equalizer, so it's a bit flat... Probably since it's designed for voice calls only. But hey I have $10 bucks in it and it's better than before.


So do you have to install a switch also for it to work through the bluetooth connector? Or can you just plug in the rca mini cord?


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## Mddrummer911 (Jul 9, 2011)

You still have to switch the wire to turn it on to input.


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## gggto (Sep 21, 2011)

stickpony said:


> anybody know how to add pre-amp outputs to the stock radio?


With an rca line converter


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## HP11 (Apr 11, 2009)

He hasn't been back here since the day he asked that question - a little over 8 months ago. But realistically, why bother modifying the stock radio. All you end up with is a modified stock radio. The stock radios are crap.:willy:


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