# Changing rear springs



## Plowboy (Feb 24, 2016)

Just bought front and rear Lovell springs for my 06 A4 now I am looking for help installing the rears, are there any videos or write up anywhere?


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## svede1212 (Nov 1, 2005)

Really easy. Take the rear wheels off, make sure the parking brake is off and disconnect the bottom of the shocks. You'll need to push the control arm down just a little bit more. Some have had a friend stand on the arm. I used a small bottle jack wedged between the body and the arm. The spring will just come right out.


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## GTO44 (Apr 11, 2016)

What Svede1212 said! I also used a small jack between the control arm and body to lower the control arm enough to get the spring out. 

Here's what I did:

First make sure E-brake is off, not engaged.

Then disconnect the lower shock bolt:











Disconnect the endlink from the sway bar. 











Then use a pry bar or jack to lower the control arm enough to get the spring out. If you don't have either you can use coil spring compressors.










The new coil springs should go back in easy then bolt everything back up!


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## svede1212 (Nov 1, 2005)

I've never had to undo the sway. One thing is for sure though, the new springs will literally slap right in as they are a little shorter.


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## Plowboy (Feb 24, 2016)

Thank you guys alot I will do this this weekend.


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## GTO44 (Apr 11, 2016)

svede1212 said:


> I've never had to undo the sway.


Just allows the control arm to drop a little further. It's only a 1 bolt so I usually do it when working on the rear suspension


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## GTO44 (Apr 11, 2016)

Plowboy said:


> Thank you guys alot I will do this this weekend.


No prob, Good luck man!


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## Plowboy (Feb 24, 2016)

I did this today and it was way easy! Thanks again Svede and GTO44.


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## GTO44 (Apr 11, 2016)

Plowboy said:


> I did this today and it was way easy! Thanks again Svede and GTO44.


Nice man! How'd it drive?

I know mine felt like a new car after rear springs, koni's, and adjustable rear sway (installed all at once)


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## Plowboy (Feb 24, 2016)

It really made a big improvement and wow had the rear springs sagged a bunch. I didn't have the money for the rear Konis yet but I will next month. Now on to the front.


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## svede1212 (Nov 1, 2005)

I'll bet you noticed how the stock shocks are about as strong as a screen door closer.  I remember when I did my springs the car did not feel harsh but more controlled. Good job.


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## Levar Washington (Aug 4, 2016)

GTO44 I see you have adjustable sway bars. I plan on installing that this weekend. My question is how to I go about adjusting if it too soft/hard once it is installed. I Jack the car up, loosen the end links and just move it to the desired location? Sorry if this a dumb question. I never done this before I don't want spend $$ money at shop for simple stuff like this


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## GTO44 (Apr 11, 2016)

Levar Washington said:


> GTO44 I see you have adjustable sway bars. I plan on installing that this weekend. My question is how to I go about adjusting if it too soft/hard once it is installed. I Jack the car up, loosen the end links and just move it to the desired location? Sorry if this a dumb question. I never done this before I don't want spend $$ money at shop for simple stuff like this


Hey Levar, Yep that's it. The front bar has 3 adjustment holes and the rear has 4 adjustment holes. Just loosen the endlink bolt and move it to where you would like. 

I've got mine set at:

Front - Hole 2 of 3 (3 being stiffest)
Rear - Hole 3 of 4 (4 being stiffest)

If you're swapping the bars you'll want to pick up a set up front cradle bolts to replace the stock ones. They are TTY.

GM #92138605 









Also quick tips:

Make sure you disconnect and plug the Power steering lines. 2 bolts in the rubber hose ends. Take a peice of spare rubber hose and run it from 1 hard line to the other.










Disconnect this bolt so you can move that hardline up out of the way. This makes getting the swaybar out easier.










Before you drop the subframe, Make sure everything is clear. I had to take the Vararam filter and tube off to make clearance for the motor to drop as much as possible.










Put a block of wood on your jack and put it under the oil pan. Then remove the cradle bolts and lower the subframe as far as it will go. At that point the saddle brackets are super easy to reach and remove:










The directions say pull the sway bar out from of the passenger side. I had better luck pulling it out of the driver side, shown here:












The subframe was hard to get back lined up. I used the marks from the original bolt on the frame to help get it back into the correct position. I used a ratchet strap to pull the subframe forward where I needed it. Once I had it pulled forward I used a crow bar to line it up left to right.


















I would suggest getting new endlinks, as the stock ones are probably shot. I went with Roadsafe Heavy Duty No-bush endlinks.
(compared to stock endlink)









Hook up the endlink to whatever adjustment hole you like. I think the middle hole is perfect for street and aggressive driving.


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## svede1212 (Nov 1, 2005)

^^^ I have mine set the same, #2 front and #3 rear. Getting the stock front one out is like doing one of those wire puzzles. Having done it I think I'd do what some have done in cutting the stock one in two. The pieces come right out. The aftermarket bar goes in pretty easy. 

The way you're supposed to line up the subframe is with a pointer tool. There is a slight dented line on the frame in front. There are datum holes on each side of the subframe that a tool is supposed to go in. I just made one with a board with dowels on the ends and in the center a "pointer" at a right angle to the board facing forward. You'r supposed to put the rear driver side subframe bolt in and use that as a pivot point until your pointer is pointing to the dented line. Install the other three bolts.


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## GTO44 (Apr 11, 2016)

svede1212 said:


> Having done it I think I'd do what some have done in cutting the stock one in two.


I tried that when I took mine out. It didn't cut very easy lol. Ended up just making a little deeper then surface marks using up a whole disc. Said F it, and ended up pulling it out of the drivers side 5 minutes later lol 

Attempting to cut it into 2 pieces:










Here you can see the cut marks on the right side of the stock bar, where it bends.


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## Levar Washington (Aug 4, 2016)

*Thank you*

Appreciate all the instructions. Hardest part seems like the subframe. But I will get it done. Thanks again


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## GTO44 (Apr 11, 2016)

Levar Washington said:


> Appreciate all the instructions. Hardest part seems like the subframe. But I will get it done. Thanks again


Hey man also forgot... When your swapping the rear sway...

The D bushings are bigger then stock and so is the sway bar. Because of that it's hard to get bracket back on over the thicker bar and bushing in such a tight area.

If you "notch" the brackets (use a drill and elongate the hole toward the bend) you will be able to get the bolt started a lot easier and then tighten them down with a small ratchet.


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