# Motor rebuild question



## sixeightGTO (Jan 25, 2010)

Hello I am new to the forum and just recently got my second GTO. I had a 1968 when I was seventeen but had to sell it to get something more driveable for college. A few weeks I was getting my hair cut and my barber was telling me about a 1968 GTO in a garage that a women and her husband bought new and he passed away a few years ago and she needed to get rid of it. Long story short I bought the car. 

The car was last inspected in 1992 and I take it somewhere around that time was the last time it ran. The motor is seized up so it is going to need a rebuild. Any words of wisdom or advice on getting a rebuild? Did not know if there was anything I should watch out for or do to avoid a headache in the future. Anyone know of a reputable machine shop in the Dallas area?


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## assasn2k (Feb 10, 2009)

First of all let me say welcome to the forum and congrats on the find. As far as year specific, I am not really sure, just follow your gut. You need to make sure that the engine builder is reputable first of all, someone that you can trust. Make sure that there is a guarantee in writing, as well as a written estimate. I don't know how much you know about rebuilding an engine, but you would save a bunch if you assembled everything yourself except the freeze plugs, oil galley plugs, and cam bearings. If assembling the block yourself also make sure you clean everything, everything w/ thinner or acetone. MAKE SURE THERE IS ZDDP IN THE BREAK IN OIL. the only time it is not needed is if you have a solid roller.

Hope I helped some.:cheers


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## 05GTO (Oct 6, 2004)

assasn2k said:


> First of all let me say welcome to the forum and congrats on the find. As far as year specific, I am not really sure, just follow your gut. You need to make sure that the engine builder is reputable first of all, someone that you can trust. Make sure that there is a guarantee in writing, as well as a written estimate. I don't know how much you know about rebuilding an engine, but you would save a bunch if you assembled everything yourself except the freeze plugs, oil galley plugs, and cam bearings. If assembling the block yourself also make sure you clean everything, everything w/ thinner or acetone. MAKE SURE THERE IS ZDDP IN THE BREAK IN OIL. the only time it is not needed is if you have a solid roller.
> 
> Hope I helped some.:cheers


:agree

Is the motor seized because it hasn't been running for many years or do you have internal damage? I would recommend pulling the engine, remove the oil pan to see what you have.

I pulled and disassembled my engine and had a machine shop do the rebuild. I agree with assasn2k, have the roller lifters and cam installed.


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## Too Many Projects (Nov 15, 2008)

Welcome and cool........another "garage find".....arty:

Personally, I would remove the spark plugs and spray LOTS of penetrating oil in and let it sit for a week. I'm not inclined to pull an engine immediately, I'd rather try to get it moving first. How have you determined it is seized, because the starter won't turn it or have you tried to turn it over by hand with a flywheel wrench ?? If using the starter and all it does is click, it may be the starter that is seized. If it has been parked inside all that time, it is probably something minar that will come loose with a little persuasion.

And pics of this jewel are necessary........:willy:


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## sixeightGTO (Jan 25, 2010)

The first thing I did was pull all the plugs and poured oil in each of the cylinders and let it sit. No luck there the starter would engage but not turn the motor. Next was to try to turn the crank by had with a socket and 1/2 inch breaker bar still no luck. Supposedly the car has just been sitting and has not been ran. It was stored in a shop so that is why I am thinking it is just seized up since it has been sitting for probably close to twenty years. Figure at this point I have to pull the motor and break it down to find out what I truly have. I will try to get some pictures up soon.

Thanks for the tip about ZDDP. That is exactly the type of info I am looking for. Trying to learn as many things as possible not the hard way. 

Any opinions on the transmission. It is Turbo 400 and has been sitting for about 20 years. Part of me says go ahead and have it rebuilt while the motor is out. Don't want to get the motor done and be ready to go to find out the trans is shot also. Didn't know if anyone had any experince or luck with a transmission after sitting this long. The fluid looks clean on the stick but I have not taken the time to drop the pan and look. The upside is that it does not appear to be leaking but who knows once I get everything else running.


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## Too Many Projects (Nov 15, 2008)

sixeightGTO said:


> The first thing I did was pull all the plugs and poured oil in each of the cylinders and let it sit. No luck there the starter would engage but not turn the motor. Next was to try to turn the crank by had with a socket and 1/2 inch breaker bar still no luck. Supposedly the car has just been sitting and has not been ran. It was stored in a shop so that is why I am thinking it is just seized up since it has been sitting for probably close to twenty years. Figure at this point I have to pull the motor and break it down to find out what I truly have. I will try to get some pictures up soon.
> 
> Thanks for the tip about ZDDP. That is exactly the type of info I am looking for. Trying to learn as many things as possible not the hard way.
> 
> Any opinions on the transmission. It is Turbo 400 and has been sitting for about 20 years. Part of me says go ahead and have it rebuilt while the motor is out. Don't want to get the motor done and be ready to go to find out the trans is shot also. Didn't know if anyone had any experince or luck with a transmission after sitting this long. The fluid looks clean on the stick but I have not taken the time to drop the pan and look. The upside is that it does not appear to be leaking but who knows once I get everything else running.


If you have to go thru the engine, you may as well do the trans too. The seals will probably leak from sitting that long anyway. Too bad it didn't break loose. On the ZDDP, if you go with the hydraulic roller cam and lifters, it isn't needed but the cam kit will be quite spendy too. Probably plan on replacing the wheel cylinders too as moisture accumulates in them over time and will create rust that can seize them up and cause leaks too. Flush all the lines good with fresh fluid.


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## sixeightGTO (Jan 25, 2010)

Here are some pics, it is going to be a fun journey bringing her back to life.


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## 68greengoat (Sep 15, 2005)

Bias ply tires still, I love it! Looks like the interior is in excellent condition, complete with a kickin' sound system, air conditioning, great find...


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## Too Many Projects (Nov 15, 2008)

WOW, congratulations, what a time capsule. The interior is stunning. Nice that it was stored inside all those years. Even the steering wheel doesn't appear cracked...:cool Interesting master cylinder with the bolt on cover. If that is original, try to save it. If the spinner wheel covers are the original Pontiac option, they are a very rare sight too.


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## geeteeohguy (Feb 2, 2008)

WOW. What a great find. I agree with the above posts. It sounds like you're on the right track, and any time and money spent on this car will be well worth it. When the engine is out, check the control arm bushings, tie rod ends, etc. Very easy to relplace and freshen up the front suspension and steering components when the engine is not in the way!! LOVE that interior!!


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## sixeightGTO (Jan 25, 2010)

Thanks for the compliments.  I feel fortunate to find this car because it is a solid starting point. Luckily my biggest rust problem is at the bottom of the rear window (which seems to characteristic for the body design). The quarters, trunk, fenders, and floor pans are in great shape (mostly due to the fact it has been sheltered in a garage most of its life). The interior is great for its age. I was impressed with the head liner of how great of shape it was in (until I got it home and looked under the sun visors to find two good size holes but the easy fix for that is too leave them flipped up for now). :cool

I did get the PHS documentation for the car. So far I have figured out that it appears the block in the car is a 1969 XH code (I knew when I bought it that it was probably not numbers matching). But the heads and intake according to casting dates and build date of the car appear to be the original parts. Luckily those spinner hubcaps are not what came with the car. It was originally equipped with Rally II's. I lucked into and found a set of 14x7 Rally II (not the original 14x6 but the car is not numbers matching anyway) and the price was a steal literally for them.

My plans for the car is to make it something I can drive and not be paranoid about any normal wear and tear (a Sunday driver). Definitely not going the frame off route. But the plans are while the motor and trans are out to rebuild the front end and replace all the bushings under the car. While suspension is in pieces I will paint and spruce up the under carriage and suspension to give it a little more life. Then it will get a visit to the body shop. I will probably at that point drive it with the interior pretty much how it is and as I get the urge to tinker I will slowly make the interior nicer. 

Who and what brand of paint have y'all used for suspension and undercarriage? Want something that looks time period correct for the car. The goal is since car is not numbers matching it does not have to be exactly as it rolled off the assembly line but I want it to look correct for the time period. Also I have mixed feelings about the white vinyl top. I am not too huge of a fan of it. If it was a numbers matching car I would leave it without hesitation but since it is not I am leaning to removing it and painting it solid Solar Red (the original color of the car). Thoughts or opinions?


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## Too Many Projects (Nov 15, 2008)

Hmmmm.....interesting that the block isn't original. Maybe the original owner wanted more performance ?? or blew it up racing...
The holes under the visors were the entrance/exit for the mouse colony in the headliner.
The 14 " Rallys are correct and if you plan to use standard size tires, they will be good. If you are after the low profile, staggered size look, 14' tires like that are getting very hard to find. Seems only Goodrich T/A's are still catering to that size for now. I went to 15X7 for mine.
Chassis paint; if you are looking for spray can paint, Eastwood has some very good products that are a good match to original gloss. Also, Rustoleum has satin paints that I have used with very good results too and is usually available locally without waiting or paying for shipping costs.
I'm not a big fan of vinyl tops either and support it's removal but remember, you will have trim holes to fill before paint. OR, leave the divider trim and paint the roof a contrasting color.....


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## Rukee (Feb 8, 2007)

Purhaps a black top would look better?


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## 66tempestGT (Nov 28, 2009)

i dont know this model specifically, but every top i have memoved before had little studs welded on instead of holes. probably to deter leaking. the studs are easy to just grind off.


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## Jeff's Classics (Feb 24, 2010)

Too Many Projects said:


> Chassis paint; if you are looking for spray can paint, Eastwood has some very good products that are a good match to original gloss. Also, Rustoleum has satin paints that I have used with very good results too and is usually available locally without waiting or paying for shipping costs.


I'm a big fan of the Rustoleum satin spray paints. I used them on suspension/chassis parts on my '76 Suburban and more recently on my '71 Javelin. Very tough paints, easy to use, and you can touch them up easily since the stuff is available at Lowes/Home Depot etc. One tip...sometimes the spray nozzles will clog up a little if you are spraying alot of stuff at once. I like to pour a little lacquer thinner in a spray can lid, and keep an extra nozzle in there. Then when one starts to clog/spit just put it in the lacquer thinner and continue with the other nozzle.

Nice looking car!
Jeff


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## geeteeohguy (Feb 2, 2008)

I agree with losing the vinyl top. The car will look much more muscular and it will clean up the lines. I too have had great results with the Rustoleum paints. Slow to dry, but easily touched up, and it's tough and long-wearing paint.


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## 66tempestGT (Nov 28, 2009)

i buy 7777 rustoleum by the box. i also save the nozzles that are still working good when i toss the cans. and use the thinner trick as well.


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