# Driver/Pass door Glass 65 GTO



## injn37 (Nov 16, 2008)

Posted this in late models by mistake.
Have built streetrods ( have 3) for most of my life, but I am now stumped on how to remove the glass from the drivers door and pass door of a 65GTO without destroying it! This is a new project ( like I really need another one) and am trying to get this body ready for stripping.

Thanks in advance


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## 05GTO (Oct 6, 2004)

I pulled the glass from my 66 during the restoration, I left the hardware that connects to the glass attached and disassembled the regulators. The glass and hardware on my 66 would not pass thru the opening without removing the reveal molding and seals. The vent frame is bolted in place with 2 screws and 2 or 3 bolts. On the 66 GTO the reveal molding cannot be removed without first removing the vent frame.


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## injn37 (Nov 16, 2008)

I thought that I did get all the hardware removed, but may have misses a few nuts and bolts, so going to look at it again right now. My 37 was much easier, just removed the inner skin and did all the work! It almost looks like a Chinese puzzle. You have to remove molding first, but you have to get the glass out of the way before you can get to the molding! 

Going to look at it now.


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## injn37 (Nov 16, 2008)

Got it figured out, and didn't crack the glass!
Remove the three nuts holding glass ( this is holding a stamping that is holding the glass like a clamp). Remove the two bolts holding the rear guide. Remove two bolts holding the 'stop' from keeping lass from going up too far. Loosen the bolt in the slot right in front of the large rectangular opening at the rear of the door. this allows the assembly to rotate and lets the glass come out of the front channel. Run glass up all the way. HOLD GLASS FROM FLOPPING. Take asmall putty knive and run it down from the door top into the setting tale holding glass. Glass lifts out slick as .... 

Thanks for the reply. I hope this helps others.
:cool


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## 05GTO (Oct 6, 2004)

Good deal, I'm attaching a picture of the vent frame and the locations where the bolts and screws fasten, there is a hidden screw that I had a little trouble with. Post pictures of your restoration, my next project will be a 65 or 64.


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## injn37 (Nov 16, 2008)

Sorry for the delay in responding.
I took some pictures of my 29, 37 and 65 , but camera I have in my office won't read the stick. I will push them to you tomorrow.
This 65 project was sort of a 'yah , what the heck, I need another project like a broken leg' project, but someone I knows' brother passes away and had bought this as a project. Guy knows I am crazy enough to take this on, so I bought it. Car seems pretty complete with only floor , trunk, and rear of front fenders with any serious rust. Car was all dismantled and in boxes and barrels, hence the inventorying before I proceed to spend money. I did a PHS record search, and all the numbers are correct with the exception of the block. Car is listed as a 3x2 WS motor with M21 trans and 3.90 gears. Motor in it is a YE motor from 65. Has the correct heads, and don't know if this was put in by dealer or just a later swap. I can't seem to find what the YE block matches up to in 65, only that it may be an automatic.
I don't plan to make this into a trailer queen, and plan to drive this, so number correct is nice, but not to loose sleep over. I have 4 other pontiac blocks, 1 389, 1 400, and 2 455's, as well as a IA 505 cu aluminum ( in my 37), so not worried if I break something when shifting!

:seeya:

I will try and be punctual and get some picts up tomorrow to show you why drinking in a bar is really cheaper than this crazy hobby.... but I have been loving this since I got my drivers license in 65!!!


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