# Royal purple vs. Mobil 1



## socal gto (Mar 10, 2006)

I am going to change my oil in a few days and I was wondering what people are using. I also appologize if this has been asked before, but I want to know what seems to work best. I used to use royal purple in my s-10, but I have heard that the mobil 1 oil has the same performance characteristics and is a little cheaper.


----------



## raven1124 (Sep 23, 2005)

Amsoil...you can't go wrong.


----------



## socal gto (Mar 10, 2006)

Where can I get amsoil? I had never heard of it until about 5 months ago when I started reading posts on this forum. What is the cost compared to the other oils.


----------



## raven1124 (Sep 23, 2005)

Send Subdriver a PM and he'll hook ya up.


----------



## roadracer (Oct 31, 2004)

I use Royal Purple in my wife's and I have Red Line in mine. Both are exellent. I used Red Line in my racing engines for years with great results.


----------



## ModBoss2 (Nov 13, 2005)

socal gto said:


> I am going to change my oil in a few days and I was wondering what people are using. I also appologize if this has been asked before, but I want to know what seems to work best. I used to use royal purple in my s-10, but I have heard that the mobil 1 oil has the same performance characteristics and is a little cheaper.




Mobil 1...you can't go wrong. Factory filled in Corvette, Mercedes Benz AMG, Porsche, Viper, SRT 10, CTS, STS, XLR, etc...good enough for them, good enough for our GTOs


----------



## MAXAMOOSE (Mar 2, 2006)

Just Did My First Oil Change @ 985 Miles, Used Mobil 1. I Don't See How You Can Go Wrong Using It Due To The Fact That Pontiac Recommends It. If You Use Anything Else It May Give A Dealership Reason To Decline Warrenty Repairs. Just Something To Keep In Mind!(check Posts On Rear Ends With Royal Purple)


----------



## johnebgoode (Oct 4, 2005)

:agree 
Change the brand of oil that the manufacturer recommends and you give them an out if you have internal engine problems. 
I stay with Mobil 1.


----------



## johnebgoode (Oct 4, 2005)

socal gto said:


> Where can I get amsoil? I had never heard of it until about 5 months ago when I started reading posts on this forum. What is the cost compared to the other oils.


In regard to Amsoil... I constantly ask myself why 99% of all the Professional categories in NHRA dont use it.


----------



## UdnUdnGTO (Jan 30, 2006)

johnebgoode said:


> In regard to Amsoil... I constantly ask myself why 99% of all the Professional categories in NHRA dont use it.


Check out sponsorship! You don't use it unless someone pays you to use it. Racing is expensive! Ask GTODealer!

Amzoil is a great product. I have over 30 years of use and a well satisfied customer.


----------



## GTODEALER (Jan 7, 2005)

UdnUdnGTO said:


> Racing is expensive! Ask GTODealer!


Yes it is!!:lol:


----------



## ModBoss2 (Nov 13, 2005)

UdnUdnGTO said:


> Check out sponsorship! You don't use it unless someone pays you to use it. Racing is expensive! Ask GTODealer!
> 
> Amzoil is a great product. I have over 30 years of use and a well satisfied customer.


I'm just going to throw this out there...look it over and send it right back if it doesn't fly...

My brother uses Amzoil and is a preferred customer...he was speaking with an Amzoil distributor out of Tx the other day, and the distributor claimed that Amzoil is known to "thicken" during oil change cycles. His oil analysis showed that the oil isn't ever worn out, it just keeps changing the viscosity, and it had him a little bit worried. If that's so, I don't think I want an oil that changes its viscosity on me.


----------



## Subdriver (Dec 28, 2004)

ModBoss2 said:


> I'm just going to throw this out there...look it over and send it right back if it doesn't fly...
> 
> My brother uses Amzoil and is a preferred customer...he was speaking with an Amzoil distributor out of Tx the other day, and the distributor claimed that Amzoil is known to "thicken" during oil change cycles. His oil analysis showed that the oil isn't ever worn out, it just keeps changing the viscosity, and it had him a little bit worried. If that's so, I don't think I want an oil that changes its viscosity on me.


I've read that concern before. AMSOIL has historically blended its oils to be high in a viscosity band. For example, a 30 weight oil should have a cSt viscosity of 9.30 - 12.49. AMSOIL Series 2000 0w30 starts at 11.2. It only takes a small increase and it is in the SAE 40 catagory, though as a percentage the viscosity increase may be small. However, AMSOIL reformulated its motor oils last year and to address the concerns that AMSOIL thickens out of grade, I had my own used oil analysis samples run on a customers 1999 C5 Corvette. The below link shows three used oil analysis reports, the 3/11/05 sample is German Castrol 0w30, the 5/6/05 and 6/24/05 samples are AMSOIL Series 2000 0w30:
Corvette C5 AMSOIL Series 2000 0w30 Used Oil Analysis Report

As can be seen from the above tests, the AMSOIL Series 2000 0w30 used in these samples did not thicken out of grade (SUS viscosity of 62.4 is in band). Additionally, the wear results show wear metals (primarily aluminum, iron, copper and lead) to be about 25% of that labs universal average for the same motor family. 

For the above poster who asked out to get AMSOIL:
Request a Free AMSOIL Catalog
AMSOIL Ordering Information
AMSOIL Preferred Customer Program
:cheers


----------



## UdnUdnGTO (Jan 30, 2006)

:agree


----------



## raven1124 (Sep 23, 2005)

UdnUdnGTO said:


> Check out sponsorship! You don't use it unless someone pays you to use it.


So true...that's like saying everybody in NASCAR has a Nextel on their hip.


----------



## SgtGeek (Apr 30, 2005)

johnebgoode said:


> :agree
> Change the brand of oil that the manufacturer recommends and you give them an out if you have internal engine problems.
> I stay with Mobil 1.


Your confused. You are confusing API approvals and viscosity with brand names.
Any manufacturer recommended viscosity and API certification (SM/SL etc.)that is recommended for use in your particular engine is all the warranty calls for.
Mobil1 has a _marketing_ deal with various manufacturers. Doesnt mean it is the best by any means. Means Mobil has cut a deal with GM just like Fram cut a deal with WalMart. Doesnt make Fram the "best" filter does it?


----------



## johnebgoode (Oct 4, 2005)

UdnUdnGTO said:


> Check out sponsorship! You don't use it unless someone pays you to use it. Racing is expensive! Ask GTODealer!
> 
> Amzoil is a great product. I have over 30 years of use and a well satisfied customer.


So if no one has an Oil Sponsor they use what? Amsoil is no better or no worse than Mobil 1. 
As far as the expense of racing.......I did it from '88 to '05 with my race car. So as much as someone else thinks that racing is expensive, do it fo 17 yrs and then talk to me.


----------



## johnebgoode (Oct 4, 2005)

SgtGeek said:


> Your confused. You are confusing API approvals and viscosity with brand names.
> Any manufacturer recommended viscosity and API certification (SM/SL etc.)that is recommended for use in your particular engine is all the warranty calls for.
> Mobil1 has a _marketing_ deal with various manufacturers. Doesnt mean it is the best by any means. Means Mobil has cut a deal with GM just like Fram cut a deal with WalMart. Doesnt make Fram the "best" filter does it?


They cut a deal....yes I agree. But when it says Mobil 1 on the oil cap........and you change to another brand, you leave yourself wide open for a voided warranty issue regarding the internals of the engine. Dealers have been know to perform tests on oil when issues of this nature come up.
I used Mobil 1 in my race car for years and everytime I did a rebuild the bearings came out looking great. 99% of the people here are never going to put thier cars through the riggors of a qtr mile drag car. Again, Amsoil is no better or worse than Mobil 1. Why would anyone take the chance on voiding a warranty by changing the brand when, (on the '05), it specifically states Mobil 1 on the oil cap? There is absolutely nothing to gain.


----------



## SgtGeek (Apr 30, 2005)

Friend your dead ass wrong. I could use Pennzoil 5-30 Dino oil if that is within the viscosity parameters my owners manual calls for and not void or have any warranty issues. The oil cap is the marketing agreement. Any oil that has the API rating and the visocisity parameters as called for in the owners manual is all you need to stay within the warranty requirements.
Mobil1 is OK oil. Nothing to right home about. TBN's are so so. Shears down is no secret. Overpriced for what it is. VOA's/UOA's reflect middle of the road results. Castrol GTX dino with 5K OCI's are even better. RedLine/Royal Purple results are better in the synthetic world. But to say Mobil1 or you void your warranty or have any warranty issues is ridiculous.
Fairly simple question of Royal Purple vs. Mobil1.
Lets look at the VOA's of the two in the 5-30 viscosity arena.
Let's look at the friction and suspension (detergent) specific characteristics/make up.

Royal Purple Racing 21 ( 5-30)
Moly-130 
Calcium-2944
Phosphorus-1130
Zinc-1981
cSt @ 100c-11.2

Mobil1 5-30 ( New EP)
Moly-79
Calcium-2936
Phosphorus-955
Zinc-1070
cSt @ 100c-10.6

Basically the same price but look at the delta between the two!
Now lets look at say RedLine 5-30.
Moly-679
Calcium-2917
Phosphorus-1419
Zinc-1421
cSt @ 100c-10.8

So as you can see from these VOA’s done by Blackstone, Mobil 1 is the weakest of the three. Does that make Mobil1 bad? Nope. But there are better in that price range for sure.
Use any of these oils while under warranty with no issue whatsoever.
For your viewing pleasure from GM.
http://www.gmgoodwrench.com/_res/pdf/SimpMaintConsumerQA.pdf
On a side note: I see you and I are about the same age Old fella's 
I also have been drag racing and building street beast since the early 70's myself. Cool:cheers 
My poor old 04 Goat.........


----------



## Subdriver (Dec 28, 2004)

Adding to what the Sgt said, the Magnuson-Moss act prohibits companies from having tied-in sales provisions... basically it is illegal for a company to tie specific use of a brand to a warranty unless they have a waiver with the FTC. That is why if you read your owner's manual you will see words like "Your car requires an oil meeting GM Standard 4718M. The factory fill Mobil 1 meets this standard." They have set a spec for the oil, basically a 5w30 meeting GM Standard 4718M and as long as you use an oil meeting that spec, you are complying with the warranty requirements. :cheers


----------



## 6QTS11OZ (Mar 27, 2005)

SgtGeek said:


> Friend your dead ass wrong. I could use Pennzoil 5-30 Dino oil if that is within the viscosity parameters my owners manual calls for and not void or have any warranty issues. The oil cap is the marketing agreement. Any oil that has the API rating and the visocisity parameters as called for in the owners manual is all you need to stay within the warranty requirements.
> Mobil1 is OK oil. Nothing to right home about. TBN's are so so. Shears down is no secret. Overpriced for what it is. VOA's/UOA's reflect middle of the road results. Castrol GTX dino with 5K OCI's are even better. RedLine/Royal Purple results are better in the synthetic world. But to say Mobil1 or you void your warranty or have any warranty issues is ridiculous.
> Fairly simple question of Royal Purple vs. Mobil1.
> Lets look at the VOA's of the two in the 5-30 viscosity arena.
> ...


:agree totally. I was going to explain the same thing but in detail as you did. Thanks for the info.


----------



## Lally (Oct 7, 2005)

One place that you can check out all test results on teh various oils (and brands) out there is http://www.trustmymechanic.com/motoroil.html

As far as readily available mass market synthetics go.... stick with Mobil 1. If you want some of the best I would run either RedLine or Amsoil. My folks and I are both Amsoil dealers and have been using the product since 1978, in race and tow vehicles, to our daily drivers. Great stuff.

I have not as of yet, tested or used any of the new(er) synthetics on the market such as Silkolene or the new products from Cosworth, but If they are a viable product, I will be looking into it.....


----------



## SgtGeek (Apr 30, 2005)

Yup...and lets all hold hands and go one step further....
Many oils do not have the "spec"...does that mean it aint good...hell no....it means they did not go through the bull**** of getting GM's approval and "pay the bull**** fee"...
I submit Cosworth 5-40 is the finest stuff on the planet...I submit Schaffers is off the charts...I submit Kendall 5-40 gives me major wood...do any got GM's "approval" ....nope...but do you void your warranty by using them?....nope.....GM would have to prove ( as pointed out above) that the oil you used was the cause of failure.....aint gonna happen when you can easily prove these oils are superior to Mobil1. But alas....you aint _got _to prove diddly squat....*they do.*..
And for my buddy who loves Mobil1 and used it forever and is a racecar driver. Great! Aint nobody busting your butt. Mobil1 was the first mass marketed synthetic out there. Not the first synthetic. Sure your loyal to them for you reasons. But they aint the best by a long shot.
I use Amsoil/Schaffers/Royal Purple and Cosworths over Mobil1. Why? Superior protection/superior detergent,suspension...and superior film strength. All for the same price.
I am soliciting your response so we may debate...not as young internet flamer but as fellow mature gearheads in a discussion. This methodology is void on many GTO internet sights. Let's discuss and learn from each other. I'm willing.


----------



## SgtGeek (Apr 30, 2005)

Lally said:


> One place that you can check out all test results on teh various oils (and brands) out there is http://www.trustmymechanic.com/motoroil.html
> 
> As far as readily available mass market synthetics go.... stick with Mobil 1. If you want some of the best I would run either RedLine or Amsoil. My folks and I are both Amsoil dealers and have been using the product since 1978, in race and tow vehicles, to our daily drivers. Great stuff.
> 
> I have not as of yet, tested or used any of the new(er) synthetics on the market such as Silkolene or the new products from Cosworth, but If they are a viable product, I will be looking into it.....


Hear hear!
I paid for the VOA of the Cosworth I now share with you. Let me know what you think compared to the VOA of "others".


----------



## ModBoss2 (Nov 13, 2005)

SgtGeek said:


> Friend your dead ass wrong. I could use Pennzoil 5-30 Dino oil if that is within the viscosity parameters my owners manual calls for and not void or have any warranty issues. The oil cap is the marketing agreement. Any oil that has the API rating and the visocisity parameters as called for in the owners manual is all you need to stay within the warranty requirements.
> Mobil1 is OK oil. Nothing to right home about. TBN's are so so. Shears down is no secret. Overpriced for what it is. VOA's/UOA's reflect middle of the road results. Castrol GTX dino with 5K OCI's are even better. RedLine/Royal Purple results are better in the synthetic world. But to say Mobil1 or you void your warranty or have any warranty issues is ridiculous.



Do you think that'll keep an uncooperative dealer from telling an uninformed customer that the cost of the repair will come straight out of their own pockets because they just voided their warranty? I doubt it. Probably happens everyday, somewhere.


----------



## SgtGeek (Apr 30, 2005)

ModBoss2 said:


> Do you think that'll keep an uncooperative dealer from telling an uninformed customer that the cost of the repair will come straight out of their own pockets because they just voided their warranty? I doubt it. Probably happens everyday, somewhere.


Aint it true. I "helped" a fellow GTO owner down here recently. She had a CAI on her 05 GTO. The dealership refused to even look at her problem ( a thud in the rear end) until the car had been put back to stock. Unreal. A call to GM Regional office fixed that issue. But she is not an internet person...so yes she was uninformed....and I'll admit I had fun helping  Damn Stealerships and internet misinformation doesn't help any of us for sure.


----------



## socal gto (Mar 10, 2006)

Are you serious that they wouldn't look at the car because of an intake? The dealership I bought my goat from sold all kinds of K&N intakes. By the way I ended up using royal purple for my oil change. Next to come tranny and diff changes. Not looking forward to those since those are two items I don't want to screw with myself.


----------



## SgtGeek (Apr 30, 2005)

socal gto said:


> Are you serious that they wouldn't look at the car because of an intake? The dealership I bought my goat from sold all kinds of K&N intakes. By the way I ended up using royal purple for my oil change. Next to come tranny and diff changes. Not looking forward to those since those are two items I don't want to screw with myself.


The trannie I recommend a flush. A BG type machine that circulates the old out while refilling with the new. The rear end is a cake walk. Simple. Get a crush washer from NAPA or Auto Zone and do it yourself. On the other hand it dont cost much to change out the rear diff fluid.... Good job man...and yes...I'm serious....Service Manager at the Stealership was a world class puss.


----------



## socal gto (Mar 10, 2006)

Since we are talkin fluids what would be good for tranny and diff. Should I keep royal purple throughout or go with redline for tranny and diff.


----------



## SgtGeek (Apr 30, 2005)

socal gto said:


> Since we are talkin fluids what would be good for tranny and diff. Should I keep royal purple throughout or go with redline for tranny and diff.


Either one. I used Amsoil ATF and Royal Purple in the rear diff. Now with the new Stage V 4L65E the trannie builder is adamant I use Napa High Performance conventional ATF. Tells me the friction modifiers in the synthetic ATF just dont work in his built up performance trannies....so gotta listen to him I guess....but my personal experiance is the Amsoil ATF reduced temps ( maintained 160 w/cooler) and I never had any slippage etc.


----------



## ModBoss2 (Nov 13, 2005)

SgtGeek said:


> The trannie I recommend a flush. A BG type machine that circulates the old out while refilling with the new. The rear end is a cake walk. Simple. Get a crush washer from NAPA or Auto Zone and do it yourself. On the other hand it dont cost much to change out the rear diff fluid.... Good job man...and yes...I'm serious....Service Manager at the Stealership was a world class puss.



How much of the crap gets flushed into the filter, and do you recommend a filter change at the time of the flush?

I've seen _several_ customers that were real strict (every 30k) with regular trans flushes, and their transmissions never made it to the 100,000 mark.


----------



## ModBoss2 (Nov 13, 2005)

SgtGeek said:


> I'm serious....Service Manager at the Stealership was a world class puss.


I've ran across a few of those ...and I've dealt with some really good dealerships and service departments.

Last bad dealing was over a warranty with a customer's (Pontiac Montana) intake leaking coolant, a couple of weeks ago. Dealership said they'd cover it and that they'd have to do it themselves. In no time they said it'd be 700.00 instead. Customer overheated within 5 minutes, after they picked up the vehicle...tech said he forgot to burp it. Customer overheated again. Now intake leak morphed into blown head gaskets. Service manager tried to pretend that it was the customer's fault and forgetting to fill the cooling system properly after the intake repair had nothing to do with the new damage...that'll be another 1,100.00, please.

I went round-n-round with the jerk for 2 days...don't know if they ever decided to act like professionals or not.


----------



## SgtGeek (Apr 30, 2005)

ModBoss2 said:


> How much of the crap gets flushed into the filter, and do you recommend a filter change at the time of the flush?
> 
> I've seen _several_ customers that were real strict (every 30k) with regular trans flushes, and their transmissions never made it to the 100,000 mark.


Yes I do. Here is why...well let me back up....there are 3 ways that I see it to change your trannie fluid.
1. Drop the pan and drain. This gets about half the fluid. However you get to clean your filter and more importantly you get to look for those funb little glitter specs which tells you your trannie is going south 
Pro's- you clean your filter and inspect.
Cons- You leave half of your dirty ass fluid with all the crap in your transmission for another round.
2. BG machine type of flush....I like ol Underdog Racings version so I quote..
"The first type of flush machine connects into the transmission cooler lines. BG makes this kind and here is how it works. The line going from the transmission to the transmission cooler is disconnected and connected to the machine line in. The line out from the machine carrying new fluid is connected to the line going to the cooler. There is a chamber on the machine that has a diaphragm in it. The top part of the chamber above the diaphragm is filed with new fluid. The engine is started which turns the torque converter and the input shaft on the transmission. The input shaft turns the transmission pump and it makes hydraulic pressure. This causes fluid to flow through the cooler line. As fluid leaves the cooler line it enters the chamber on the flush machine. As the old fluid side of the diaphragm fills it pushes the diaphragm up and forces new fresh fluid into the transmission. After a while the old fluid is collected in the machine and it is replaced by new fluid. Now the transmission has been flushed. Really pretty simple. As you can see the machine cause no pressure and all fluid transfer is done by the transmission’s own pump. 

Here is what I do not like about this type of machine. When the fluid leaves the transmission pump it passes to two different pressure regulators. One regulator supplies fluid at one pressure to the transmission itself that operates the pistons and controls gear shifting. The other is supplies the torque converter and the transmission cooler. So you can see that all the fluid leaving the pump does not go to the cooler. A bunch of it is cycled through the transmission and dumped back to the pan without going through the cooler. This type of flush machine does not remove all the old fluid, but it continuously dilutes it down with new fluid. It never really removes all of the old fluid, but is far superior to just drain and fill.

The other thing I do not like about this type of flush is that they sell the supposed benefit that they do not have to drop the pan and change the filter like that is a benefit. Dropping the pan is very important. Looking in the pan is a fantastic diagnostic tool that can tell you if something is going wrong in your transmission. Now lets say some crud is flushed out of the trans with this flush method. Where does it go? It can go into the pan, and then sucked up into the filter that may clog the filter causing the pump to starve for fluid and a pressure loss. On the engine the filter is after the pump and if the filter gets clogged there is a bypass valve that opens and oil bypass the clogged filter so the engine is still supplied with oil. Unlike the engine oil pump and filter the filter is on the intake side of the pump. If it gets clogged, that is it, it is clogged and stuff does not get lubricated and the clutches do not get enough clamping pressure and they slip and burn up. In just a faction of a second you just bought a new transmission if the filter clogs."
Pro's- got to replace about 90% of your trannie fluid.
Cons- You didnt clean your filter.
Me....I drop the pan and change filters...then flush it right there at the shop.
3.Pump Inlet Flush Machine. This thing attaches not to the cooler line but to the pump intake after the pan and filter are removed. his machine only supplies fresh new fluid to the pump intake and as the fluid passes through the transmission it dumps out to a collection tray and never goes back through for a second pass. All of the old fluid and crud is GONE and replace with fresh new fluid. After the service a new filter is installed, the pan replaced and then it is topped off with new fluid to the proper level on the dipstick. 
Pro's- you just cleaned the crap out of your trannie and replace 100% of the fluid.
Con's- Hard to find the machine.

I use about 6 oz's of Auto RX about 500 miles before I know I'm gonna clean and flush the trannie. This stuff is really good. Cleans the crap out of any varnish or crap in there so when you clean and flush it all comes out and doesnt stick to something. Good stuff. http://www.auto-rx.net/


----------



## Subdriver (Dec 28, 2004)

socal gto said:


> Since we are talkin fluids what would be good for tranny and diff.


Applicable AMSOIL products if you are interested:
AMSOIL ATF
AMSOIL Severe Gear Extreme Pressure Synthetic 75w140


----------



## SgtGeek (Apr 30, 2005)

IMHO Amsoil ATF is the best stuff out there. My trannie temps never rose above 170-180 even after a good flogging. Stuff kept my trannie clean as a whistle to boot. Get what you pay for in life and this stuff is worth every penny.


----------



## Subdriver (Dec 28, 2004)

SgtGeek said:


> IMHO Amsoil ATF is the best stuff out there. My trannie temps never rose above 170-180 even after a good flogging. Stuff kept my trannie clean as a whistle to boot. Get what you pay for in life and this stuff is worth every penny.


Thanks Sgt! :cool


----------



## ShoddyHog (May 17, 2006)

I wanted to take a moment to thank SgtGeek and those who have posted to this thread. I took my new Goat to the dealer yesterday for the first oil change, and because they will have to deal with any warranty issues, I decided I'd tell them exactly what I planned to do.

I'd asked them before, and they told me I could run "regular" motor oil in it as long as it met the viscosity requirements, but they recommended Mobile 1. When I showed up yesterday, I requested to be in the bay with my Goat so I could view her up on a lift, and ask the mechanic questions. The service manager didn't even bat an eye, and agreed to let me go in. In the mean time, I told them I planned on using Royal Purple or equivalent synthetic and/or change out the tranny and differential fluids with other than stock lubes. None of them even hinted that there would be a warranty issue.

Once in the bay, I explained the same thing to the tech, and the only thing he did was to insist I make sure to pay attention to the specs and replace it with the correct fluids. I was there the whole time during the service, and learned quite a bit. He also knew how to reset the oil change warning properly, and gave me other tips.

Auffenberg in Farmington, MO has impressed me every time I've been there. I'll probably do most of the oil changes myself since I have the proper means to do it, and even told them so...they still treated me like I was their #1 customer.

Now, I just need to figure out WHERE to get a good filter and synthetic oil...but I've got a few thousand miles to figure that out.

Gerry


----------



## Lally (Oct 7, 2005)

FYI... I am in St. Louis and am also an Amsoil Dealer... If you need something shoot me a PM.... or you can hit up subdriver and he can have the stuff sen t to you.


----------



## ShoddyHog (May 17, 2006)

Lally said:


> FYI... I am in St. Louis and am also an Amsoil Dealer... If you need something shoot me a PM.... or you can hit up subdriver and he can have the stuff sen t to you.


Actually, I want to find Royal Purple...it sounds cooler than Amsoil :cool 

Just kidding. Thanks for the offer...I might take you up on it.

Gerry


----------



## Subdriver (Dec 28, 2004)

ShoddyHog said:


> Now, I just need to figure out WHERE to get a good filter and synthetic oil...but I've got a few thousand miles to figure that out.
> Gerry


Gerry,
Good to see you have a supportive dealer. When/if you decide on AMSOIL, you don't have to leave your computer to order it. It will show up on your doorstep about two days after you order it. Ordering info to benefit the forum is in my sig. Dropped you a PM with pricing info. :cheers


----------



## ShoddyHog (May 17, 2006)

Subdriver said:


> Gerry,
> Good to see you have a supportive dealer. When/if you decide on AMSOIL, you don't have to leave your computer to order it. It will show up on your doorstep about two days after you order it. Ordering info to benefit the forum is in my sig. Dropped you a PM with pricing info. :cheers


Thanks...I think I sent you a reply. Let me know if you got it.


----------



## Subdriver (Dec 28, 2004)

ShoddyHog said:


> Thanks...I think I sent you a reply. Let me know if you got it.


Got it and replied. :cheers


----------

