# How do you change bushings?



## kjk990 (Sep 1, 2010)

I am changing the drums to discs. While there I'm also changing the bushings. I have everything off (upper and lower A arms, trailing arms). I was going to have the local machine shop do it but he wanted $350. I could buy a press and do it myself for that, and have a press left over. 

Anyone have a suggestion for removing and installing the new bushings. I am using rubber, not anything fancy. 

Thanks for any advice.


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## FNG69 (Nov 15, 2009)

That does sound priceee to me too. It's not rocket science just about having the right tools. Have you checked around with any of your other car buddies. That's what being in a club helps out with..Les


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## BearGFR (Aug 25, 2008)

The trick to pressing out the bushings is to make sure you put some sort of spacer inside the control arm (on both sides of the bushing) so that when you press it out, you don't "collapse" the sides of the arm in towards each other. Likewise when you press in the new ones. Other than that, it's pretty straigtforward.

Bear


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## Eric Animal (Oct 28, 2007)

:agree Exactly...and you WILL have your own press when you are done! Just be careful to line the new ones up nice and straight, and go slow! Eric


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## lars (Sep 28, 2004)

Just drop me an e-mail request for my "Front End Rebuild" paper - it has step-by-step instructions for replacing the bushings, and you don't need a press: You can pop them out in seconds with an air chissel and a good vice, and the new ones go right back in again with a hammer and a 3/4" drive cheap socket set to use as drivers. The paper is specifically for the early 'Vettes, but the technique and hardware is all the same on those stamped steel a-arms.

If I could get $350 for 4 a-arm rebuilds, I'd quit my aerospace engineering job: I can replace the bushings in 4 a-arms with my air chissel, socket set, and a hammer in about 30 minutes, so that adds up to $700/hour... maybe I need to switch professions..!

Lars
[email protected]


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## kjk990 (Sep 1, 2010)

Thanks for the info. I am going to tackle this on Friday. When I re-install everything are there torque specs? Or just go for it?


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## lars (Sep 28, 2004)

Every fastener on the suspension has a torque spec - outlined in the Service Manual in the Front Suspension Section.


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## geeteeohguy (Feb 2, 2008)

I'm with Lars 100%. I've done tons of these bushings, and never with a press. I use an air chisel with a special thin blade bit, and walk out the old bushings. The new ones can be walked in or driven in with a big socket and an air chisel or hammer. You need a good vise. I also put the new bushings in the freezer for about an hour prior to install to shrink the metal sleeve a bit. I use anti-sieze on the bushing sleeves. DO NOT torque any A-arm or trailing arm bushing until the car is sitting on its suspension. If you do it while the suspension is hanging unloaded (on a rack), you run the risk of twisting and tearing the bushings when the car is driven.


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## jetstang (Nov 5, 2008)

Freezer is a great idea, that could help. I've done a bunch, but used a press. It is an interference fit and needs special tools to install, press and spacer. I found it easier to just drill out the rubber bushing and leave the can inplace, then just insert a new bushing. Secret is to not bend the control arm..


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## kjk990 (Sep 1, 2010)

Ok. So I went and picked up all the parts today. Even though I asked for a price before he did anything... He had hot tanked them and removed all the bushings. (yes he did charge me, $100 for that and machining down my axle flanges for the new rotors i'm putting on)

I'm half way there now. I could tell he was a little annoyed that I didn't want him to finish the job. But as I left he said couple of things like

I wouldn't just press those in or you will crush them. I think he is talking about what Jetstang was saying.

He also said that they are really worn out and that I should tac weld each bushing in place. Has anyone ever had to do this? Is is necessary?


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## FNG69 (Nov 15, 2009)

I have never tack welded any. Probably done 4 to 5 sets myself. If it feels tight going in it is!! Even had the rudder bushing go bad on a front A-arm and still didn't wallow the hole..Les


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## geeteeohguy (Feb 2, 2008)

Nix on the tack welds. If the new bushing is loose in the A-arm, you need a new A-arm. This is not an area on the car to cut any corners. Press fit will do the job.


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## leeklm (Mar 11, 2012)

I have replaced bushings in a few old a-arms and never had to weld. However, my gto has tack welded bushings in the rear from previous owner. My lower rear arms do look like they are 47 years old though. Oops, thats right, they are...


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## jetstang (Nov 5, 2008)

You shouldn't have to weld a bushing in, may be a rustbelt thing. Lower control arms you can do in a vice, but uppers require a press and spacer not to crush the a arm. You could "clearance the control arm to let the bushing go in easier and tackweld for safety on the can, really wouldn't hurt anything if it isn't wallered out. Alignment will show if it worked. Good luck and sorry about the trouble with the mechanic.


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## geeteeohguy (Feb 2, 2008)

I've never used a press on the uppers....you just need finesse...like putting in u-joints. Easy as pie!!! The trick is to bump the A-arm itself back to the bushing after the shaft is installed and the nuts and washers are on. A quick zip around the perimiter of the opening and the arm springs back into place, flush with the bushing collar. Easy.


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## FNG69 (Nov 15, 2009)

You know, while you have these off you should consider boxing them. It makes a big different. Don't need to go ahead and run the sway bar just makes it stronger. Like the different between a conv. frame and a HT or Post frame...Les


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## kjk990 (Sep 1, 2010)

FNG69... Thats a good idea. I think I will try that. Now just need to find someone who welds. I think I have a friend i can bribe to do it for a nice bottle of something. =)


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## FNG69 (Nov 15, 2009)

I went with the Urethane bushings too. Cost a little more than the rubber but helps with a firmer ride I think!!..Les


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## kjk990 (Sep 1, 2010)

lars said:


> Every fastener on the suspension has a torque spec - outlined in the Service Manual in the Front Suspension Section.


I don't have a service manual. Can someone look it up for me?



geeteeohguy said:


> DO NOT torque any A-arm or trailing arm bushing until the car is sitting on its suspension. If you do it while the suspension is hanging unloaded (on a rack), you run the risk of twisting and tearing the bushings when the car is driven.


I'm glad you said something about tightening them up when it is on the ground. I would have done just what you said not to do. =)

Well just for an update. I have all my suspension painted with new bushings in thanks for all the helpful hints and Lars for the directions.

The front end is back together with new disc brakes, springs, bushings, sway bar and paint. Everything went together pretty well. I will say that the Hotchkis sway bar was a pain. 

I'm putting the rotors and calipers on now. I have one side done and was thinking that last time I did bearings I used more grease. The directions say to grease the race, and bearings. Do you grease anything else? Do you put a big glob of grease in the hub between the two races? If you do grease other things is it a must, where I should take the completed side apart and grease it. Or is it a "I usually put a little here for good measure"? I watched a video on line, of course after the one side was complete, and it said to grease the rear seal. How important is that?

Thanks for all the help. I will try to post pictures later.


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## geeteeohguy (Feb 2, 2008)

The grease thing is kind of up to you. Technically, the bearings just need to be packed. I always seem to smear a fair amount in the hubs, more to prevent rust and as a "feel good" than anything. Main thing is to get the grease seals in straight, and lube the spindle where the grease seal rides sparingly. Also, do not overtighten the spindle nut when putting it all back together...just more than hand tight....no more than 12 inch pounds.


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## kjk990 (Sep 1, 2010)

OK. I finally got some time to post some pics.

I am also still looking for bushing torque numbers. Or if nobody knows what the book says does someone who has done it before have an educated guess?

Thanks


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## ALKYGTO (Mar 29, 2010)

Looks very nice. What calipers did you use? :cheers


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## 1970 Lemans (Jul 25, 2009)

kjk990 said:


> OK. I finally got some time to post some pics.
> 
> I am also still looking for bushing torque numbers. Or if nobody knows what the book says does someone who has done it before have an educated guess?
> 
> Thanks


According to 1970 Pontiac Service Manual: "Torque nuts to 50 lb. ft. with the control arm in normal curb height position."


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## kjk990 (Sep 1, 2010)

That is the "Right Stuff" kit. front and rear. The rear still needs to be completed. I'm off work tomorrow, the kids are in school. I hope to finish. I still need to change the master cylinder/booster, new hard lines all around, install the rear end and add the brakes to the rear end.

Thanks 1970 Lemans. I will go with that. It should be pretty close.


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## geeteeohguy (Feb 2, 2008)

I never torque mine. Always do it by feel. That said, I think 40 foot pounds is about right. I think the manual spec's it around 40-50. More is not better.


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## kjk990 (Sep 1, 2010)

Next problem. The new brake lines for the front passengers side travels a different route than my original. My original travels in front of the crossmember. The new one travels behind it which runs next to my headers on either side of my engine. At the closest spot it is within an inch of the headers. but runs within 2inches for about a 6 inch piece on each side. Is this a problem? Will it over heat my brake fluid or am I just paranoid?

Thanks


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## 1970 Lemans (Jul 25, 2009)

kjk990 said:


> Next problem. The new brake lines for the front passengers side travels a different route than my original. My original travels in front of the crossmember. The new one travels behind it which runs next to my headers on either side of my engine. At the closest spot it is within an inch of the headers. but runs within 2inches for about a 6 inch piece on each side. Is this a problem? Will it over heat my brake fluid or am I just paranoid?
> 
> Thanks


As is, I would think it would be far enough away that heat transfer would not be problematic. That said, are you confident that with time the line won't shift/distort/droop/sag to where the gap doesn't close further, perhaps to making contact?


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## the65gto (Oct 9, 2008)

kjk990 said:


> Next problem. The new brake lines for the front passengers side travels a different route than my original. My original travels in front of the crossmember. The new one travels behind it which runs next to my headers on either side of my engine. At the closest spot it is within an inch of the headers. but runs within 2inches for about a 6 inch piece on each side. Is this a problem? Will it over heat my brake fluid or am I just paranoid?
> 
> Thanks


I just finished mine also and the spacing is about the same. Was thinking of heat wrapping some of the brake line near the headers. ?


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## kjk990 (Sep 1, 2010)

Ok. I just finished everything up except bleeding the brakes. As you my know this is my first classic and i have never bleed the brakes before. After watching a few Youtube videos I went ahead and tried. I bought a vacuum pump bleeder. I pumped and pumped until my forearms looked like popeye. No luck. I went back the the two person original way. No luck. I re-checked all my connections for leaks. I think they are all good.

Any ideas. Am I just too impatient? Does it take forever? Am I missing something?

Thanks


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## leeklm (Mar 11, 2012)

kjk990 said:


> Ok. I just finished everything up except bleeding the brakes. As you my know this is my first classic and i have never bleed the brakes before. After watching a few Youtube videos I went ahead and tried. I bought a vacuum pump bleeder. I pumped and pumped until my forearms looked like popeye. No luck. I went back the the two person original way. No luck. I re-checked all my connections for leaks. I think they are all good.
> 
> Any ideas. Am I just too impatient? Does it take forever? Am I missing something?
> 
> Thanks


Did you bleed the master cylinder first? The Right Stuff kit comes with fittings & rubber line to bench-bleed the master. I have done it while on the car as well, which typically works fine.

Also, it works better if you remove your bleeder screws at each wheel, and wrap them in teflon pipe tape. This way you are not sucking any air past the bleeder screw while you are pumping.

I will be installing my Right Stuff kit today on front with all new lines front & rear. Leaving the back with stock drums.


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## kjk990 (Sep 1, 2010)

I did the bench bleed. One thing I did do is hook up the booster to the intake. I don't have the hose. Will this prevent proper bleeding?


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## leeklm (Mar 11, 2012)

No, would have no effect.


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## LeMans2GTO (Jun 6, 2012)

geeteeohguy said:


> I've never used a press on the uppers....you just need finesse...like putting in u-joints. Easy as pie!!! The trick is to bump the A-arm itself back to the bushing after the shaft is installed and the nuts and washers are on. A quick zip around the perimiter of the opening and the arm springs back into place, flush with the bushing collar. Easy.


This is my first time using these forums. But they are amazing help. I bought my 67' LeMans off of my uncle. Everything was torn apart and he stated all was there to rebuild... half of parts missing. Went to replace upper control arm bushings today, well the entire suspension is still intact. This is my first restoration, and I'm very new to it. My grandfather has replaced many of these bushings, he didn't think necassary to use press but after i spent 6hrs trying anything i could he said it might be best to have them pressed. In attempting to remove first bushing (furthest i got) I slightly damaged collar, thankfully barely any harm. Should I remove control arm and then attempt to remove bushings?


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