# Stainless vs Ceramic



## MSTNGKILLA (Jul 27, 2006)

I was told that stainless headers by themself work better than a ceramic pair, to get rid off the heat???????? Everyone here is getting them dip'd what going to be the best... I'm going with the Kooks Lt's


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## GTO1_OHIO (Oct 10, 2005)

MSTNGKILLA said:


> I was told that stainless headers by themself work better than a ceramic pair, to get rid off the heat???????? Everyone here is getting them dip'd what going to be the best... I'm going with the Kooks Lt's


I have Kooks...you don't need them dipped.


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## Good 2 go (Sep 7, 2005)

Me too. Was told "dipping" not required............


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## burnz (Jul 26, 2006)

you can't double dip a chip.:lol: the thicker the exhsust the more heat it will retain.


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## MSTNGKILLA (Jul 27, 2006)

thanks guys I'll be ordering the kook's very soon


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## Phantom2004 (Sep 18, 2005)

What about the Stainless Works ones?

http://www.pfyc.com/store/merchant....de=GT5005&Product_Count=3&Category_Code=GTEXH

How do they compare to the Kook's?

http://www.pfyc.com/store/merchant....de=GT5012&Product_Count=2&Category_Code=GTEXH

I want to buy one of these sets for my 2004 GTO, I just can't seem to see which set is better.


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## svede1212 (Nov 1, 2005)

i would whole heartedly disagree. ceramic coated headers have been tested to be 100* cooler measured one inch away from the header than uncoated ones. our cars already suffer from engine bay heat. uncoated headers and the spiffy looking but warm sucking "C"AIs are a great way to be the slow dog on a warm day.


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## svede1212 (Nov 1, 2005)

Phantom2004 said:


> What about the Stainless Works ones?
> 
> http://www.pfyc.com/store/merchant....de=GT5005&Product_Count=3&Category_Code=GTEXH
> 
> ...


stainless works had fitment issues but not on everyone's cars and kooks have been consistantly good. there's not a nickle's worth of HP difference between any of them tho. if you get them coated as i already have indicated you should you'd be looking at about $1,400 for kooks. that's the reason i went with SLPs. they're already coated and so i saved almost $500. they look, fit and run very well.


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## Phantom2004 (Sep 18, 2005)

svede1212 said:


> stainless works had fitment issues but not on everyone's cars and kooks have been consistantly good. there's not a nickle's worth of HP difference between any of them tho. if you get them coated as i already have indicated you should you'd be looking at about $1,400 for kooks. that's the reason i went with SLPs. they're already coated and so i saved almost $500. they look, fit and run very well.


What about wrapping the headers with that insulation stuff that comes on rolls from Summit or JEG's? If heat is that big of an issue.


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## svede1212 (Nov 1, 2005)

wrapping is ok on stainless headers as long as they are wrapped correctly. too much can cause stress fractures from hot spots. if you take them off to do it (almost a perogative) then getting them coated would be easier, look better and last longer.... or the easiest way is to buy them already coated like SLP or JBA and save yourself the cost and messy install.


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## MSTNGKILLA (Jul 27, 2006)

Kooks are $850 and 250 for the jet hot coating thats $1100, were you get 1400????? SLP's on Tybrn site are $1180 so Kooks it is...
I was told wrapping the headers is not good for everyday drivers, it keeps most of the heat in the header but that much heat causes the header to become weak from long periods of high heat, It crystilizes the steel or something like that....


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## svede1212 (Nov 1, 2005)

you're forgetting the midpipes with "race" pipes or cats. $400 more for cats or $230 for "race" plus coating plus shipping that's $1,400. your price is just the header which doesn't mate up to anything. i got the SLP LTs w/"race" mid-pipes for $913 shipped on a special from him.


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## svede1212 (Nov 1, 2005)

you might want to check but i think you pay for double shipping too. from byrne to jet hot and from jet hot to you.


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## MSTNGKILLA (Jul 27, 2006)

does one realy need mid pipes I figured to just weld my custom exhaust to the header, Maybe sometype of a bolt up set up in case I need to remove the pipes!


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## svede1212 (Nov 1, 2005)

i wouldn't weld the headers to the mids. you don't want to waste the collectors if you take something apart. kooks use ball type connectors. SLPs use a slip fit but i had 3 bolt flanges welded to the collectors and mid pipes with a gasket inbetween to make a leakproof fit. i use a wideband O2 sensor because air leaks are bad for measurements. if you get the SLPs without mids they're cheaper too. you have to compare apples to apples. the SLP price you had was with the mids.


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## MSTNGKILLA (Jul 27, 2006)

Mmmmmmm I think I'm going to have to look into this a bit more. Thanks for the info


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