# 65 GTO Brake Upgrades



## poocher (Jan 25, 2014)

I have a 65 GTO and it has 4 wheel drums on it with a single reservoir master cylinder. I am thinking of upgrading with a dual reservoir master cylinder w/power brake booster and front disc brakes. I saw a pretty booster, master cylinder combination from GPS Auto on Ebay for $257. It's the 2F692 unit. Unit is all chrome so I assume there isn't any aluminum. I've noticed some vendors sell polished aluminum master cylinders. Wonder why? Maybe more resistant to corrosion? What do you guys think of this unit? See attachment below. :cheers


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## SANDU002 (Oct 13, 2004)

You can save a few $$$ if you get non-chrome version. The chrome is all about the bling.


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## crustysack (Oct 5, 2008)

aluminum=lighter


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## 1965goat (Sep 8, 2014)

seems like a decent setup. however, id check out opgi for the disc cnversion. i also have a 65 and im getting the set that they have to upgrade


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## 1965goat (Sep 8, 2014)

*disc brakes*

a very good setup would be drums in the rear and discs in the front, as youll get plenty of stopping power, but will light em up very easily when you need to  also, braking is mainly front, and only a small percent of rear, so drum will do the trick as long as you have discs in the front


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## poocher (Jan 25, 2014)

*What about rims?*

Would I need to convert to 15 inch rims to do the disc brakes??:leaving:


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## 1965goat (Sep 8, 2014)

*Rims*

Generally I believe you do. However, there may be some kits out there that allow for different sized rims. I'd check opgi or NPD to see if they had any sets like this


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## ibarbuckle (Feb 24, 2014)

I'll give a contradictory opinion here. 

Have you driven the car regularly? If not, you may be surprised how well your manual drums work. I was planning a similar conversion for my 69, but after getting the set-up right, I completely changed my mind. The car has great feedback, and will lock up the wheels easily if I am not careful. Also, how much stopping power do you need for a 3,500 lb. street car? 

And correct me if I am wrong, but the only reason GM went to dual reservoir master cylinders was because of a government mandate. I have heard the old mechanics' tales of single cylinder cars loosing all braking, but don't know how much of a risk that really is.


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## geeteeohguy (Feb 2, 2008)

I am running 4 wheel drums on both of my GTO's, and have been for over 30 years. They work just fine. Disc brakes are superior at speeds over 100 mph, and for repeated hard stops, like in road racing. That said, for a street car, drums are fine. But they need to be in top condition. As for the single reservoir master cylinder, duals are better. In 1985, when coming up to an intersection at about 40 mph in my '65, I blew a front rubber brake hose, and instantly lost ALL my brakes. Downshifting and using the emergency brake averted disaster. I'm still running a single res. master on that car, however, but I inspect the brake system regularly!! All modern improvements will help these old cars become safer, handle better, etc., but it's all in the preference of the owner. I kind of like my old GTO's to give me the same experience they did way back then. Loud, fast, and dangerous!!  The young guys can add the Baer brakes, tubular A arms, cup holders, and GPS. I'll stick to a tripower and a Hurst shifter.


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## ibarbuckle (Feb 24, 2014)

That's interesting. I have never met anybody that actually lost all braking on a single cylinder car.


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## El Monte Slim (Sep 8, 2014)

*It happens*



ibarbuckle said:


> That's interesting. I have never met anybody that actually lost all braking on a single cylinder car.


I did.

In 1975, on my way home from school.

Scary. :eek2:

Never again.


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## 666bbl (Apr 13, 2014)

I was running a speed contest against an 87 Buick GN, I was driving a 70 GTO with drum brakes all around. Came around a curve on the freeway and saw all brake lights less than a 1/4 mi ahead and I was doing a bit over 100MPH. The brakes lasted all of maybe 10 seconds and by the time I was at 50 I had NOTHING due to heat induced fade. I pulled it into 2nd and stuffed the E brake which was just barely better than nothing. There was an exit there and I jacked the car over hard to get on it then pulled into 1st. Another couple of stabs on the E brake and I finally came to rest at the red light on top of the exit. That was sheer terror and blind luck. The fun of pulling away from a GN in high gear didn't come anywhere close to the adrenaline rush of no brakes. I use multiple applications on the brakes to allow cooling an that didn't work at all on the drum set up. Never again. Discs up front on all but a proper restoration.


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## Bensjammin66 (May 12, 2009)

Summit Racing has a kit with spindles, calipers, pads, rotors, hoses, bearings, etc from a 67-69 camaro that goes right on our a-arms. $450. I also have Cadillac 11" rotors on my 12 bolt though so its 4 wheel disc. I run the stump puller hyd roller cam from SD with 13" of vaccuum. Those factory GM brakes with a good 11" booster and decent vaccuum will put you through the windshield. 

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-bk1200/overview/year/1966/make/pontiac/model/gto


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