# Best Distributor / Hei / ignition system??



## GTO Brad (Aug 18, 2015)

I am putting a freshly built motor in my 65 GTO (389 block 30 over, 093 421 polished heads, cam / roller rocker kit). Anyways I am looking for some advice on the best ignition system to use. I've been looke at setups like the one by D.U.I. Etc. something with 50k volts coil on top and adjustable vacuume. I hear some complaints about the cool overheating tho... Am I better off going with a named brand performance Hei with and externally mounted coil?? Thoughts?? Experiences???


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## geeteeohguy (Feb 2, 2008)

The best igniiton system to use is the stock cast iron points distributor with good quality points and condensor, not a uniset. I have been running this system for over 35 years and 100's of thousands of miles on early GTO's and have not once been left stranded. Others will disagree. Many do not like having to replace the ignition points every 15,000 miles. But most of these people never end up putting that amount of mileage on their car before they tire of it and sell it........others are sure to chime in on this one!


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## BearGFR (Aug 25, 2008)

I'm running a D.U.I. HEI on my 69, and I like it a lot --- quality piece. However, I do agree with GeeTee. It's mighty tough to beat the factory points system for reliability. It's not going to just suddenly quit on you with no warning and leave you walking, like any sort of electronic unit can.

Bear


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## BierManVA (Jan 6, 2014)

BearGFR said:


> I'm running a D.U.I. HEI on my 69, and I like it a lot --- quality piece. However, I do agree with GeeTee. It's mighty tough to beat the factory points system for reliability. It's not going to just suddenly quit on you with no warning and leave you walking, like any sort of electronic unit can.
> 
> Bear


Bear,

If I recall, you are running a roller cam on your '69, right? Did you switch to a composite gear on it? I'm getting ready to drop in a dizzy on my rebuild and really like the DUI (for a variety of reasons) but I read on another forum that the BOP composite gear uses a smaller roll pin than what the DUI does. Necessitating enlarging the hole. What's your take on that if you know?


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## BearGFR (Aug 25, 2008)

Yessir, I'm running a solid roller, and using a bronze gear. I had intended to swap it out for a composite after a period of time, but to be honest ---- the car runs so good that I forgot about it  It's been together for more than 4 years now, so I reckon if I was going to have a problem I already would have. Next time I run the valves I might go ahead and pull it to have a look.

Bear


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## BierManVA (Jan 6, 2014)

BearGFR said:


> Yessir, I'm running a solid roller, and using a bronze gear. I had intended to swap it out for a composite after a period of time, but to be honest ---- the car runs so good that I forgot about it  It's been together for more than 4 years now, so I reckon if I was going to have a problem I already would have. Next time I run the valves I might go ahead and pull it to have a look.
> 
> Bear


Yeah, I may go with bronze. The composites are just so darned expensive! With as cheap as the bronze ones are, pulling it periodically when checking lash, etc and just swapping it probably makes much more sense than dropping the extra coin on the composite.


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## oldskool (Apr 26, 2015)

Another option is to use a points dist, with the Pertronix electronic conversion, such as the Igniter 3. That way your ignition system can look more original, and you'll have a rev limiter for protection. I've read a lot of good reviews of these units.

But, as with most all parts, I'm sure there are also some horror stories out there on the Ignitor conversion. 

Ignitor III

Ignitor 3 III Multiple Spark Ignition Module 71181 GM 1957 1974 V 8 Pertronix | eBay

One Amazon seller has 'em for $114 shipped. 

Amazon.com: Pertronix 71181 Ignitor III Adaptive Dwell Control for Multiple Spark with Digital Rev Limiter Delco 8 Cylinder: Automotive


I can't badmouth the points dist. I started racing before the HEI was invented. I ran stock dist with all Accel components. The only problem I had, was 1 set of bad points. I never could figure out what was wrong with 'em. They never fired a lick. Had others look at 'em. Nobody could figure out what was wrong. So, I just threw 'em away, and never had another problem with any Accel points. 

We made well over 1000 passes with our Stock and bracket racers--maybe a couple of thousand. We won a lot of rounds and races, with the factory points dist. But, the rubbing blocks will wear, and the contacts will burn. So, if you run your engine a lot. The points will need to be adjusted occasionally, and changed when needed. I also used separate points and condenser. I very seldom ever changed condensers. Never had one go bad. Don't know how long they are supposed to last.


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## Clinton67 (Sep 6, 2020)

geeteeohguy said:


> The best igniiton system to use is the stock cast iron points distributor with good quality points and condensor, not a uniset. I have been running this system for over 35 years and 100's of thousands of miles on early GTO's and have not once been left stranded. Others will disagree. Many do not like having to replace the ignition points every 15,000 miles. But most of these people never end up putting that amount of mileage on their car before they tire of it and sell it........others are sure to chime in on this one!


Can you help me find a good set of points and set up?


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## Clinton67 (Sep 6, 2020)

A link or part numbers or?


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## O52 (Jan 27, 2019)

I think the David Ray small body HEI modified distributor with an oil filled external coil is the best of both worlds.


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## GTO44 (Apr 11, 2016)

Another more modern option would be an electronic ignition. A pro billet MSD distributor with vacuum advance, part of the “ready to run” distributor line paired with a Capacitive Discharge Ignition box (6a,6al, 6al digital, 7al, ect.) and a modern coil (msd blaster 2 for the retro look) is a fantastic solution. 

Obviously more expensive than previously listed options. But I’m of the mind set why use 50+ year old technology when we have the option to take advantage of modern technology. The CDI box will improve burn characteristics, and efficiency at idle and cruise, by firing multiple sparks per cycle. You’ll also get a rev limiter. The 6al uses the small pills. The 6al digital has 2 rotary style dials built in to set rev limit. 

The msd distributor will offer a more reliable alternative to a points by using a magnetic pickup. With the “ready to run” line of distributors you get to take advantage of vacuum advance (the regular pro billet msd dist. uses no vacuum advance). Using it in conjunction with a cdi box and high output coil will give you the most amount spark voltage while maintaining a way to have vacuum advance at low load. Its not uncommon to feel a seat-of-your-pants performance difference going from a stock style setup to one of these setups. It will also improve fuel economy and keep your plugs cleaner. 

Plus you can add modules to this setup. Some examples would be a crank timing retard module to make cranking easier on your starter, a 2 step rev limiter to launch better at the track, a triggered timing retard for nitrous, ect. Or get a cdi box like the 7al that has all that stuff built in.

With the Read to Run distributor you have the option of using it with or without a cdi box. It also comes with its own built in rev limiter that is active if not using a cdi box. So if budget is an issue you can use it alone with a coil and add a cdi box later.

Just food for thought.


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## Lemans guy (Oct 14, 2014)

All solid advice by the gang, I have curved all these distributor set ups. They all have shuttle differences. The DUI is a great unit, the MSD ready to run I like as well, the original stock with points is nice and snappy, Petronix does have variable dwell and a 4 degree spark retard on crank.

you can great performance characteristics and what you want. Defineately use Vacumn advance, and set up right will give you better performance at light throttle by burning those lean mixtures more efficiently, and much better idle cooling and smoother idle.

Oldskool talked about all that racing with points, so you can use what you want. I can see points float on the Sun machine with a light tension on the points say 16 lbs when you get up to near 6000 RPM’s they will ride the tops of the distributor cam and almost lay open giving misfires. This reduces dwell time and gives a weaker spark. But do you drive at 6000 RPM ever?...No and more tension on the points spring would even eliminate that. It is just a know phenomenon that in racing was a consideration. RPM’s increase dwell time drops a bit, but this is again not a real reason not to use points.

back then dual point set ups came in to try and help this. As dwell time could be maintained higher with two sets of points. That did not last long as HEI came along, it had many emissions advantages for efficiency, and the hotter spark necessitated a wider dist bod
y so that the spark would not jump the terminals under the cap. This also allowed more room to place the coil in the cap and eliminated the external coil and coil to dist center wire.

If your timing is set upcorrectly all these systems run very well. A fuel air explosion called a burn occurs in the cylinder, if it happens at the right second, or millisecond the explosion or burn will provide peak power on the pistons downward stroke. An efficiently timed points system will beat any of these systems that are out of perfect timing and vice versa.

with sophistaced instruments and careful analysis one can tell if the explosion is efficient. But if you were to observe a fuel air explosion say in an enclosed room, you could not tell any diffence if the explosion was set off by a “Hotter” spark. If you tossed in a match, a flare, a burning 2x4 or a spark from a filing,The room would explode instantaneously if the fuel air mixture was ideal.

So pick the one you like for looks and performance, don’t go with a racing set up of no vacumn advance if it is a street car, because racers do it. Consider costs and efficiency, but don’t fall for the old hot rod tale that you get more horsepower from one or the other.

Google this article, “Points vs HEI ignition shoot out, Hot Rod Network”

You can skip all the interviews from everyone telling you their product is better and just go to the dyno sheet at the end. Look at points and HEI horsepower and torque all through the power bands and you won’ see much difference with points sometimes a little better.

So pick what you want and set the timing perfect and let her rip!


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