# 65 GTO (clone) build



## Dunnburger (Dec 18, 2011)

Well, the car has been at the body shop since november and finally I will be able to bring her back home at the end of this week!!! arty: 
She was stripped to bare metal to reveal a few dents, dings and bondo here and there. The worst being the rear quarters. Had the outer wheel wells and both quarters replaced, truk got a few patch panels, body is worked smooth now, and my body guy will put her in epoxy primer. My plan is to 2K prime it, block it and paint it myself (going with SPI products epoxy, primer, base and clear). Then when she's pretty from the outside it will be time to get to work on the heart of the machine. Plans are for a 461 stroker with Tremec TKO 5 speed trans, probably gonna stay with the 10 bolt rear until she can't hold up, then upgrade that. Last but not least will be the interior. Hoping on getting her completely done by the fall if moneys allow it. Heres a couple pics, I planning on keeping up to date with pics and progress as I go along. Hope you enjoy!


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## blackplate65 (May 10, 2011)

looks like u have a good start on it keep on it you will be burning rubber in no time


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## Dunnburger (Dec 18, 2011)

Well, finally got the GTO back from body work on Saturday March 3rd in epoxy primer. Went ahead and set up paint booth in my garage and got some regular 2K primer on her on Sunday the 4th. Sanded a little sunday afternoon and a little tonite. Will have her blocked out tomorrow night and will put more primer on probably thursday night. Not looking too bad I don't think.


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## FNG69 (Nov 15, 2009)

(Cars, boobs, beer) Josh I see you have your priority's in order. Hope you get her done in time for summer fun!!!!!!!!!!!.. Les


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## Dunnburger (Dec 18, 2011)

Thought someone would get a kick outta that.........heres a couple more pics after a round of block sanding, re-prime and more block sanding, think i might do it one more time and she'll be ready fro some color.[URL=http://s597.photobucket.com/albums/tt57/Dunnburger/65%20GTO/?action=view&current=IMG_0503-1.jpg][/URL]

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## shortymack (Mar 14, 2012)

i'm thinking of buying 65 gto no motor or trans for $2500 .is that a good price ?
has rust on roof rails fenders, floor ,


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## Dunnburger (Dec 18, 2011)

shortymack said:


> i'm thinking of buying 65 gto no motor or trans for $2500 .is that a good price ?
> has rust on roof rails fenders, floor ,


I think so...........I suppose it depends on how involved the rust repair would be (and if you can do it yourself), is it surface rust or rust through requiring replacement of fenders, floor, roof rails ect....? What I can tell you is that I paid $6500 for mine and i made the deal having to give back the motor/tranny to the owner (he rebuilt and and was in love with it and it was the only way I could pry the car from his fingers). I could have left the body alone and enjoyed it but..........I decided to have the body done. The body work I had done.....replacement of both rear quarters, outer wheel wells, trunk pan patches, the trunk lip that holds the weather stripping replaced, patches on the inner wheel wells, trunk supports above the gas tank replaced, door hinges replaced, couple of patches in the doors, complete paint strip, re-working of the entire car body and put in epoxy primer, that ran me 8K. 
I realize with this being a clone, when Im all said and done I will have more in it than its worth but Im totally okay with that as this car is the holy grail of cars for me and plan on having it for the remainder of my years (Im 36 y/o) so in the end if I make it another say 40 years enjoying this car it will average about 600 dollars a year. thats only $50/month!!!!! :lol: Well worth the money as far as Im concerned.


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## Dunnburger (Dec 18, 2011)

I got what I hope to be the final round of 2K primer on her today. Will be sanding it off tomorrow.








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## jetstang (Nov 5, 2008)

Nice project, looks like its coming along good. Too bad you had to give the drivetrain back, but nice score!


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## Dunnburger (Dec 18, 2011)

jetstang said:


> Nice project, looks like its coming along good. Too bad you had to give the drivetrain back, but nice score!


Yeah, buts its the only way I could get the car (have had my eye on this car since I was in high school). One thing that does make me feel good about it is the 400 thats in it now leaks like crazy! oil, coolant, and the tranny leaks as well, both would need tore down and re-built anyhow. Im looking to go with a 461 stroker and tremec 5 speed when I get the paint done.


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## FlambeauHO (Nov 24, 2011)

Dunnburger said:


> I think so...........I suppose it depends on how involved the rust repair would be (and if you can do it yourself), is it surface rust or rust through requiring replacement of fenders, floor, roof rails ect....? What I can tell you is that I paid $6500 for mine and i made the deal having to give back the motor/tranny to the owner (he rebuilt and and was in love with it and it was the only way I could pry the car from his fingers). I could have left the body alone and enjoyed it but..........I decided to have the body done. The body work I had done.....replacement of both rear quarters, outer wheel wells, trunk pan patches, the trunk lip that holds the weather stripping replaced, patches on the inner wheel wells, trunk supports above the gas tank replaced, door hinges replaced, couple of patches in the doors, complete paint strip, re-working of the entire car body and put in epoxy primer, that ran me 8K.
> I realize with this being a clone, when Im all said and done I will have more in it than its worth but Im totally okay with that as this car is the holy grail of cars for me and plan on having it for the remainder of my years (Im 36 y/o) so in the end if I make it another say 40 years enjoying this car it will average about 600 dollars a year. thats only $50/month!!!!! :lol: Well worth the money as far as Im concerned.


I like your monthly payment breakdown! I'm only 29 and it makes me feel a lot better about the mass of cash I'm dumping now! Great looking project!


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## Dunnburger (Dec 18, 2011)

FlambeauHO said:


> I like your monthly payment breakdown! I'm only 29 and it makes me feel a lot better about the mass of cash I'm dumping now! Great looking project!


Yeah, makes it a little easier to justify the cost to myself, let alone my wife. Although I haven't let her in on my financial breakdown as of yet.

Got the last round of blocking done and some pics after I washed it off. Got a paint booth rented for next Tuesday, gonna lay some color!








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## Instg8ter (Sep 28, 2010)

very nice....yep you know your done wet sanding when your primer shines like a finish coat....i rented a booth too, best 200.00 i ever spent, recommend anyone wanting to take on paint find one to rent and get as much dust out of the equation as possible, whats the final color gonna be?


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## Dunnburger (Dec 18, 2011)

Instg8ter said:


> very nice....yep you know your done wet sanding when your primer shines like a finish coat....i rented a booth too, best 200.00 i ever spent, recommend anyone wanting to take on paint find one to rent and get as much dust out of the equation as possible, whats the final color gonna be?


Yeah, I thought about trying to pull the entire paint job off in my garage but I imagine I would not have been happy. Booth here in lincoln $150 for the day, totally agree that its gonna be worth every penny. Although Im going to spray color/clear on the door jams, bottom side of trunk and under the hood the inside of the fenders (not the wheel wells) in the garage this weekend. That way at the booth I won't have to open it all up just be able to spray the body and be done. 

Went back and forth on color but settled on a nice bright red, its a southern polyurethanes red base that I'm using. Its a really nice red, no orange or purple hues just a nice looking red. Cant wait to see her in full color!!!!!

I will be sure to post some pics


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## Instg8ter (Sep 28, 2010)

I did the same thing, sprayed jambs and hidden stuff in the shop then feathered the clear in the jambs at the beginning of each coat in the booth. Took around 7 hrs to get 3 coats base and 4 of clear down on the body. Make sure you have enough paint on hand, i will have to look back and see how many oz's per coat, i know me and bear figured it out before he shot his. want to say it was around 85 reduced per coat


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## Dunnburger (Dec 18, 2011)

Exactly what I'm planning is 3 of base and 4 of clear. 85 oz per coat would be right at 2 gallon. Ive got i gallon of base that I reduce 1:1 so end up with 2 sprayable gallon. Perhaps I should get an extra quart just to be on the safe side. Lord knows it would be a bad day to run out of paint with no options in a rented paint booth and plenty of clear to go on. The clear I should be good on, I ordered and extra gallon of that. Im hoping my expericence with painting goes as well as yours did! Just got to remember to be patient and take my time. I suffer from a condition called "instant gratification" and tend lose focus because it done NOW!!!!


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## Dunnburger (Dec 18, 2011)

Is there a gasket that goes between the tailight housing and the body on the 65?


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## BearGFR (Aug 25, 2008)

Instg8ter said:


> ... i will have to look back and see how many oz's per coat, i know me and bear figured it out before he shot his. want to say it was around 85 reduced per coat


I used "Kevin's Rule of Sevens": 7 ozs of mixed/reduced/ready-to-spray material per coat, per panel. For me that was 10 panels (hood, roof, trunk, 2 fenders, 2 doors, 2 quarters, bumper+valance) times 3 coats of base (10 * 7 * 3 = 210 ozs) plus 4 coats of clear (10 * 7 * 4 = 280 ozs). It worked out pretty close.

Bear


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## Instg8ter (Sep 28, 2010)

yep i cut it close with about a cup of base left, i would grab the extra quart and that way you have some original mix in case you ever need touch up. First coat is the worse, just relax and start in an area that will not be noticable to get your speed and flow right. There is a pattern that you will want to spray also so you are overlapping coats in different areas, i will dig up the prep procedures that a buddy who does body/paint sent me.

ok its a bit long but GREAT INFO for first timers....:cheers

No sweat, man. Once you're masked up....

Show up with a box of paint prep wipes (good paper towels)

Moisten a couple wipes with water and kinda "dust mop" the car to remove dust.

Put on gloves. Keep fresh latex or nitrile gloves on the whole time.

Degrease the car with wax n grease remover. Get it wet, wipe it dry.

Put your can of color on the paint shaker and let er rip. Put on a cheapo paint suit preferrably with hood. Or wear a ball cap.

Unfold a fresh tack cloth all the way then ball it up loosely and grab your blow gun. Turn the booth on.

Tack and blow the car off simultaneously. Use medium-low air pressure and be thorough around gaps. Don't mash on the tack rag. Tack the masking also. This should take like two or three minutes.

Booth off. Grab your color off the shaker. Open and stir with a stick. Scrape the bottom of the can and be sure theres no clumps there. Shake more if so.

Show up with two empty gallon paint cans from the paint store. Or a couple old plastic pitchers.

Set your freshly cleaned gun in the gun stand in your mixing area. Pop the lid and put a paper strainer on top.

Show up with four or five paint sticks marked off in numbered half inch increments with a pencil or permanent marker.

Chunk one of them in an empty can. Set the lid back on your color and tap one side down. Hold the lid down and pour your color.

Mix one coat's worth of color (best guess how much, err on the too much side). Second coat you'll know how much to mix if u pay attention. 

Hit your mixing ratio exactly every time. No buts. Mix up your reducer and color now. Stir twice as long as you think you need to.

Get it into the gun and don't make a mess. Booth on for good. Cork it and go to the Temptress. 

Stand by the exhaust fan and gently blow yourself off with low pressure air. You are ecstatic but loose, not nervous. Stretch, breathe. Concentrate. Respirator on.

Check your gun pattern on the masking someplace. Make it do what you want. Wide fan, but even top to bottom. Not too dry, not too wet.

Practice the roof right before u spray first blue. Will you make it in one sweep front to rear or will you have to move the stool and make two sweeps per side? Gotta keep the gun pointed straight at the panel without touching the car for support!

Its gonna be over before you know it. Go to work.

Roof first, one side then the other. Deck n rearend same way. Then quarters and work your way forward, ending with the hood.

50% overlap on color. Medium wet coats. Medium pressure. Medium gun distance and speed. Take your time.

Stagger the start/stops of each coat down the side. For example, spraying the quarter beginning at rear, on first coat , go top to bottom (carry that wet edge down) and use the back of the wheel opening as your landmark. Next, just the area over the well. Next, well to door handle and so on. Second coat, go from bumper to middle of well, then from there to the door gap. Thats what I mean by stagger the start/stops. Gives you a better chance at even coverage.

...and don't flip the gun at the end of your strokes. Trigger off with gun moving.

Get all your coats down. Hopefully you used the slowest reducer available, or the next one down. Let flash thoroughly. It should have no texture to speak of and no loose overspray. 

Dab gently with tack rag when dry if some trash is laying on the paint, but don't tack the whole car.

Thoroughly clean the gun. Remove nozzle if possible and flush. 

Same way on mixing clear. Get out your other empty can and marked stick. Mix enough for one coat. Set up for easy refills. May take more than the color did.

Everything is more on the clear, but none to the extreme. Overlap your last pass by 2/3rds instead of half. Little air pressure bump. Go faster, hold gun closer. Do not tilt gun. Let the reducer do it's job and don't overwet at start/stops. Hit it hard, dump it on and keep moving. Be a robot and don't look back. Don't drown it because it WILL run. When the wettest spot on your masking is sticky or stringy, you're ready for the next coat. Don't drag a hose or pant leg in it!

Dang, I gave you the whole shootin match, ha ha! Make notes or a list for yourself. That was a whole walkthrough, you know how I can be. Count on being rattled by some condition or other, and needing your checklist. I wish you a drama free spray day. If I was there I would refill your cup for ya and stand by the fan being a fan myself plus permagrin the whole time because you are pretty much painting my dream car. Yeah I'd do a few things different of course, but as a whole the car is a over the fence home run to me. The model, color, engine, air cleaner....man oh man. My Dad would crap a moon rock right on the seat. When he bought his Sprint6, he started up a 389 and it scared him because it tilted the fenders so hard when he blipped it, lol.

Any more Qs? I'll try to provide straight As.


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## crustysack (Oct 5, 2008)

yes there is a gasket that goes between the tail light housing and body BUT the ones I got from ames were garbage so I used some black 3m 5200 and made my own gasket


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## Dunnburger (Dec 18, 2011)

Instg8ter, thanks for that post, a lot of good info in there and some things I wouldn't have even thought of.




crustysack said:


> yes there is a gasket that goes between the tail light housing and body BUT the ones I got from ames were garbage so I used some black 3m 5200 and made my own gasket


That's what I thought but wasn't 100% sure, haven't been able to locate one yet. Might try your method.


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## facn8me (Jul 30, 2011)

Looking Great!!.. Been putting off the body work on mine getting the new engine in. Need a 350? Trade you engine for body work..... lol


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## Dunnburger (Dec 18, 2011)

facn8me said:


> Looking Great!!.. Been putting off the body work on mine getting the new engine in. Need a 350? Trade you engine for body work..... lol


Thanks for the offer  but I'm leaning towards a 461 rather than the 350. What are you throwing in yours?


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## facn8me (Jul 30, 2011)

I found a 66 starchief executive with 39k original miles. I put new bearings and cam in. All new gaskets and a aftermarket tri power.


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## Dunnburger (Dec 18, 2011)

Very nice!!!!


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## Dunnburger (Dec 18, 2011)

Got some color and clear on the "hidden" spots this weekend. It was good practice before I do full color tomorrow. Check it out. The color is Southern Polyurethanes Red (the only color they make) I love it, pics don't do it justice, very loud and vibrant!!








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## Instg8ter (Sep 28, 2010)

Arrest Me Red, very nice...., looking good, if you have an extra panel take it in the booth with you to test your pattern on vertically before you go at the car, once you get a rythme it will be done in no time. If you do get any runs in the base be sure to sand them down before clear, and runs in the clear can be addressed during sand and buff. Also make sure to get down and get good coverage on the rocker panels.


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## Dunnburger (Dec 18, 2011)

Got her done, she's red now, the pics don't quite do the color justice. Its super bright, in your face, red!! Came out really good, a little bit of trash in it but nothing that won't come out with the cut-n-buff process. By the time we got done masking, it took about 6 hrs to get her all done. It was about 630pm when the last of the clear went on, fortunately the guy I rented the booth form offered to let the car sit in the booth overnight to set up, otherwise I would've been driving her home with some pretty sticky clear on her. 
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## facn8me (Jul 30, 2011)

Looks great!!


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## Instg8ter (Sep 28, 2010)

once you get that first coat down and see some color on your baby the other 5 hrs fly by....great job!!! I am kinda itching to do another one, maybe over the winter.


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## Dunnburger (Dec 18, 2011)

What compound/brand did you use for buff after sanding the clear??


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## jetstang (Nov 5, 2008)

Looks incredible, congrats. I got the liquid ice 3 pad system from my body guy, good kit, 1 compound, 3 pads for $90, and works great. Stay off the edges, trust me, lol..


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## Instg8ter (Sep 28, 2010)

and you thought you were done....:rofl:

what i did:

wet sand the clear with 1000, then 2500 cut with quality rubbing compound (mothers) then, buff out with mcquires ultimate final glaze. Do it within the first week or it will get hard as a rock and be harder to buff. i put tape over the body lines and edges so i did not burn through then hand rubbed them after.

if you have any runs in the clear be careful how you sand them out, even with a block its easy to cut through the clear around the edges from uneven pressure. You can use a poly finishing putty as a guide coat, scrape a thin coat over the run then wet sand with a block, the run will show up in color (high spot) once you start cutting it with 800, when it starts to feather into the white edges of the filler switch to 1000 once the filler almost disappears switch to 2500 until gone then buff, run all gone.


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## jetstang (Nov 5, 2008)

Body guys have a 2500 sandpaper on a DA for wetsanding prior to buffing, def speeds the process. The pad absorbs water and keeps it wet, cool stuff. You could get 1500 DA paper to start. Or just do it old school and wax it after the paint kicks in a couple months.
Since my surgery, I spend most days helping at the shop and am learning a ton, and getting pretty critical on paint, good stuff and noticing EVERYTHING, lol..


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## Dunnburger (Dec 18, 2011)

Went with 3M "perfect it" compound and some machine polish. So far it's sanding out really good, I have to remind myself to not get in a huge hurry. My buddy came over that helped me paint and gave me some pointer. We then buffed half of the trunk and man it looks good. Will definitely post some pics when I'm further along!


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## Dunnburger (Dec 18, 2011)

Made it!!! Got her sanded and buffed this past weekend without any major problems. Man, does wet sanding like that stink or what, not only do you think your ruining everything you just did, its a ton of work. The results though, are 100% worth it!!!!







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## BearGFR (Aug 25, 2008)

Nice!!!!! -MAN- that looks good! :cheers

I know very well how much work is involved in that, and it turned out great. You should be proud, sir. 

arty:

Bear


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## Instg8ter (Sep 28, 2010)

excellent job, and now you know why a good paint job costs so much, but its a big rush when your done and you can say WOW!!!....i did that....:cheers


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## Dunnburger (Dec 18, 2011)

Thanks guys!!! I'm more than pleased the way she came out. Been putting in the weather stripping, tailight housings, and front grille. Also got the window trim all back on. She's lookin like a car now!! Plan to get the bumpers back on tomorrow and some new hood hinges on. Will post some pics when I get her all prettied up.


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## Dunnburger (Dec 18, 2011)

Hey Instg8ter, lookin at your photos you did a nice sound system. I was thinking of doing a nice system as well. Right now I'm thinkin a couple 6in speakers somewhere up front and a couple in the rear, along with a subwoofer (or two) in the trunk. What did you do? If you did a sub, what size did you go with? I'm thinkin of putting the box (sealed or ported?) on the kick-up in the trunk. Just lookin for some info. Don't know what will sound good and what won't at this point. Thanks,

Josh


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## Instg8ter (Sep 28, 2010)

bet you find yourself just staring at it every night before you lock up the garage......arty: 4x6 speakers will fit perfectly behind the kickpanel vents if you just unhook the cable and open the flapper all the way. the box is ported with seperators to isolate the base from the 3 ways and bolts in from the trunk with lag bolts in existing holes in the package tray, and wing nuts. I used 1.5" weather seal as an isolator around the top edge so there is no vibration. Mounted new head unit and EQ in glovebox with 1.5 DIN face plate (BestBuy). Kenwood system has wireless remote and I-pod/mp3 jack in console as i prefer my playlist over the crap they play on the radio. you can see how i mounted in my Photobucket feel free to ask if you have any questions.....:cheers


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## Dunnburger (Dec 18, 2011)

As a matter of fact, yes I do stare at it while the garage door goes down.:lol: Glad to hear I'm not the only guy that does that!! thanks for the info!!


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## Dunnburger (Dec 18, 2011)

So, I was replacing my vent window weather seal and got the old out just fine but the bottom support piece that the post from the vent window rests through is rusted bad!! I cannot seem to locate any vent window frames for the 65 anywhere ( not just the frame around the actual glass piece but rather the entire frame that the vent window sets in) OPGI has the complete set up for 66-67 looks awfully similar, any chance that would work for me?? If not I suppose I could fab up that piece if i need to, but would rather not. Any help is appreciated.


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## Dunnburger (Dec 18, 2011)

Couple of dumb questions but here they go.........10 bolt rear end (think its original but not sure) anywho, axle bearings....do they come out pressed on to the axle or do they remain in the axle housing and need pulled out? Also, replacing the clear plastic that protects the dash gauges..... Do you have to drop the dash and pull the gauges to do this?? 

Still struggling with the vent windoe seals, found a place here in town that will get them squared away whenever my new seals show up. 

Other than that she's pretty much back together from the outside. Got some "fatmat" on order, infinity speakers, head unit have arrived, got subs and amp from a buddie of mine for a song. When I get her sound proofed will install audio. 

Thanks


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## Dunnburger (Dec 18, 2011)

Anyone??


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## Dunnburger (Dec 18, 2011)

Finally got my trunk and sound system finished up. Made a new package tray, the trunk is just "hardyboard" wrapped in some nice carpet. Turned out pretty sweet, I think. I decided to put the front speakers in the doors, but haven't cut the door panels yet. Waiting on carpet and some new vent window seals and interior will be done (for now)......Also picked up the Rally II wheels off of craigslist, makes the car look a whole lot better in my opinion!!

http://s597.photobucket.com/albums/tt57/Dunnburger/65 GTO/?start=all


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## Instg8ter (Sep 28, 2010)

i shattered my vent window glass when installing the new levers and found the whole assembly with glass on craigslist, don't think the 66' post type will fit yours but if you need some parts off it to fix yours i would let it go cheap. nice job on the trunk, i am thinking of boxing mine in with carpet bottom and vinyl sides to match interior, any close up pics?


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## Thor7352 (Oct 11, 2010)

Dunnburger,

Great Job. I can only hope mine turns out as nicely. In response to your 10-bolt rear question. The bearings are pressed onto the axle. You have to loosen two plates on both sides of the brake backing plate (you'll need to spin the axle to get the socket wrench through a hole in the axle hub and align it with the four different bolts holding the plates on). Once those two plates are off you pull on the axle and if the splines haven't seized or twisted locking them to the carrier it should come right out. The seal will remain in the axle housing. 

Hope that helps,

-Thor


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## Dunnburger (Dec 18, 2011)

Instg8ter said:


> i shattered my vent window glass when installing the new levers and found the whole assembly with glass on craigslist, don't think the 66' post type will fit yours but if you need some parts off it to fix yours i would let it go cheap. nice job on the trunk, i am thinking of boxing mine in with carpet bottom and vinyl sides to match interior, any close up pics?


Yeah, i went ahead and purchased two other vent window assembly's that were in much better shape than mine (had to pay out the nose for em though) waiting on seals and found a place here in town that will take care of em for me. Check out my photo bucket, I just added some more pics of the trunk process with a couple closer pics 

65 GTO pictures by Dunnburger - Photobucket



Thor7352 said:


> Dunnburger,
> 
> Great Job. I can only hope mine turns out as nicely. In response to your 10-bolt rear question. The bearings are pressed onto the axle. You have to loosen two plates on both sides of the brake backing plate (you'll need to spin the axle to get the socket wrench through a hole in the axle hub and align it with the four different bolts holding the plates on). Once those two plates are off you pull on the axle and if the splines haven't seized or twisted locking them to the carrier it should come right out. The seal will remain in the axle housing.
> 
> ...


That does help, just started researching and wasn't sure if they had c-clips in em or not.

thanks


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## Dunnburger (Dec 18, 2011)

Beginning to get the interior sorted out. Taped everything off and rattle canned the dash semi-gloss, came out pretty good. Got new carpet that fit very well, ordered the 4 speed carpet so it will be correct when I finally get manual tranny. Just need to clean up the firewall and tuck some wiring up behind the dash. I originally thought I would do the interior last, but..........decided to get it done now that way everything you see from the outside is "pretty" then I will get to work on the drivetrain and suspension.


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