# Need oem shifter



## poof1887 (Sep 21, 2010)

I was driving my 06 M6 home today and I was cranking it from 1st to 2nd and my GD shifter snapped right in half. I'd prefer to not have to pay some inflated dealer price for it, so does anyone know where I can get one?


----------



## GTO JUDGE (May 14, 2005)

Do yourself a favor. Bite the bullet and spring for a GMM rip shifter or equivalent there of. 

The reason yours snapped is: There is one positive stop on it. It's located at the top of the shaft. When you shift hard the force puts all the weight on the top forcing the shaft to flex thus shearing off. The GMM has 2 positive stops one top one bottom. No matter how hard you slam the shifter front you will not snap it. Its like hitting a wall nice and solid whereas the OEM one is spongy. Also you cannot miss shifting into 3rd gear it locks you out no worries of down shifting. OEM IS JUNK. Yes the GMM is $$$$$ but you'll kick yourself in the a$$ for not having one sooner.

Some prefer the billet and Hurst and swear by them. I love my GMM rip. IMO do not put an oem one back in.


----------



## SWGOAT (Nov 9, 2010)

PM me I have one from my 05. Let me know.


----------



## poof1887 (Sep 21, 2010)

GTO JUDGE said:


> Do yourself a favor. Bite the bullet and spring for a GMM rip shifter or equivalent there of.
> 
> The reason yours snapped is: There is one positive stop on it. It's located at the top of the shaft. When you shift hard the force puts all the weight on the top forcing the shaft to flex thus shearing off. The GMM has 2 positive stops one top one bottom. No matter how hard you slam the shifter front you will not snap it. Its like hitting a wall nice and solid whereas the OEM one is spongy. Also you cannot miss shifting into 3rd gear it locks you out no worries of down shifting. OEM IS JUNK. Yes the GMM is $$$$$ but you'll kick yourself in the a$$ for not having one sooner.
> 
> Some prefer the billet and Hurst and swear by them. I love my GMM rip. IMO do not put an oem one back in.


Any advise on whether I go with street or race? What's the difference?


----------



## svede1212 (Nov 1, 2005)

The "street" reuses the shock shaft with the rubber isolater in it. The "race" uses a solid shaft up to the knob. IMHO the only real advantage of the street is you can put on a Lou's Short Shifter handle if you want. The throw of the GMM race is short enough for me. The shorter the throw the less mechanical advantage and harder to shift.


----------



## DementedSix0 (Oct 13, 2010)

I have a OEM shifter PM me if you need it.


----------



## GTO JUDGE (May 14, 2005)

I have the street version as svede describes. I chose that one so I wouldn't have to remove the knob. 2 bolts on shaft secure it. Directions are very explicit.... use blue locktite on the threads, some who didn't have issues cause the bolts back out causing play. I also sprung for the gel gaskets (10.00) that minimize vibration and noise. 

I have no noise and no play. No side to side play as is normal with the OEM one. Throws are short and tight. Whether you choose the street or race is a personal preference. When removing the knob its IMPORTANT to NOT twist. It pulls straight UP as its pressed on.


----------



## 06BLACKGTO64 (Oct 30, 2010)

MGW-P is another great shifter and a little less than what the GMM sells for


----------



## svede1212 (Nov 1, 2005)

The stock knob is not really pressed on. It is held with 4 little white clips you can see if you turn the knob/shaft/boot over and look underneath. They also use RTV to "glue" it on. Removing the knob safely and easily requires putting something like a toothpick under each clip to hold it open and then secure the shaft in a vice and pull up. Fairly easy. To reinstall on new shift you need to be able to push the knob back on the new shaft (may require digging out some RTV) and then using some RTV on reassembly. For some reason most just "cave-man" yank the knob off and fight the clips (and risk breaking one).


----------



## poof1887 (Sep 21, 2010)

So I have decided to go with the racing one because my shaft is already broken. I'll let u guys know how it turns out. I'm on the hunt for a good price now


----------



## poof1887 (Sep 21, 2010)

This far it's been just about impossible to find a GMM for a good price, unfortunately I'm not willing to pay $500. I have not yet exhausted all of my avenues for purchase but I am getting close to the bottom of my parts barrel. Does anyone have suggestions for a suitable stand in for the GMM? Possibly the hurst or Harris?


----------



## GTO JUDGE (May 14, 2005)

They are salty but worth it. I put it off for years. Ordered mine direct:

Welcome To Ripshift - Australia's Fastest Manual Shifter


----------



## poof1887 (Sep 21, 2010)

Here is the temporary fix to my shifter problem hahaha

It's kind of pathetic that this solution actually feels better and more rigid than the stock one.


----------



## 916GOAT (Jun 14, 2012)

How did u get aux cable there?? Lol 

Sacramento CA. GOAT


----------



## HP11 (Apr 11, 2009)

916GOAT said:


> How did u get aux cable there?? Lol
> 
> Sacramento CA. GOAT


http://www.gtoforum.com/f41/diy-aux-w-pics-16792/


----------



## poof1887 (Sep 21, 2010)

I but the bullet and paid $470 for the shifter from hiddadmotorsports (I ordered from the b/c they r stateside and I didn't wanna have to wait for it to ship from down under). I freeking LOVE it!!!!! It's fantastic. 

The aux I had done by a guy who lives here in Chicagoland, it cost me $25 I think and it is worth every penny!!!


----------

