# Need input on suspension parts



## 2006.0 (May 4, 2012)

Hey guys, I've been stalking the forum half a year, last December I bought an '06 manual mostly stock (for now), but I have GOT to fix my suspension. I love the tires that came on it, but they are over-sized 235/40zr18 91w in the front and 255/35zr18 90w in the back. The wheel well / fender is eating into my side walls and I'm going to waste the rubbers in the back.. It also hits in the front on the inside of the fender (not as bad). I am pretty sure my shocks and springs are wore out, the car handles like crap.. It clanks and bangs on uneven roads and I am sick of shuddering in apprehension of it each drive. The car is close to 50,000 miles now.

So this is my plan in the very immediate future:

BC BR Coilovers 
BC Racing BR Series Coilovers (Front and Rear)- 2004-2006 Pontiac GTO [ZB-2-BR] - $1,250.00$999.95 : MarylandSpeed.com- Your First Stop on the Way to Performance!

Energy Suspension bushing set
http://www.energysuspensionparts.com...prod=3.18134

Hotchkis sway bars
Hotchkis Sport Swaybars - 2004-2006 Pontiac GTO [2278] - $457.95$414.95 : MarylandSpeed.com- Your First Stop on the Way to Performance!

I am not sure what all else I need to complete that job, I assume I would still need the Whiteline options
on the coilover webpage for strut mount bushing, radius rod bushing, and upper shock bushings.... but only because I have NO idea what any of those parts are and I didn't see the exact same letters forming words in the energy suspension kit's 'included' details- lol

But I am also thinking I need pedders ball joints all around
Pedders Pontiac GTO Ball Joint - Tick Performance

My car squeaks (like a metal whine) at a specific RPM about 1800-2600 under certain acceleration, and I'm not sure if it is a 'GTO' sound or a ball joint sound, I never hear it when turning, the wheels feel solid on the road, but under specific acceleration I ALWAYS hear it (the wife thinks I'm crazy, only I hear it). 


Could any of you pros let me know 
1) if those are all good things to do to fix my problems and have a good setup.
2) if those are a good compromise for price/performance or if some lovells / pedders coilover kit is better, and where to find it for a good price.
3) if those are all the parts needed for the job I'm laying out or also if I am overlooking something else I oughta fix while under there.

I REALLY appreciate your help, I know there are a lot of similar posts, but I am looking for direct assistance on this setup as I am buying parts within the next week or two and really don't know more than just enough to be dangerous.

Thank you guys, and I apologize for the length,

-Aaron


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## svede1212 (Nov 1, 2005)

I've done my entire suspension myself. I don't think everything is for everybody tho, for instance you probably won't notice sways. The Energy kit is a good place to start for general bushings but it doesn't include your strut bushings or front radius rod bushings and those are the two most important ones. Kollar Racing has partial and complete kits as well as ball joints. I'd call Andy there and take his advise over what a lot of people will tell you. Great advice and service.


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## 2006.0 (May 4, 2012)

I was thinking I would order the *Whiteline Front Strut Mount, Front Radius Rod, and Upper Shock Bushings* from the BC page at Maryland speed website when I order the kit.. I honestly have no idea what those are, but a good friend of mine on here with a '68 (FlambeauHO) will probably help me with the install when it comes to time. 

Would those Whiteline front bearings be okay and cover the rest of the important stuff, in addition to the Energy kit? Thanks for the advice on ignoring the sway bar.. I assumed it would be a big improvement, from hearing some people talk about it, but if not I'll think about saving the $450. 

Is the general consensus that the BC kit is as good or comparable to a Lovells or Pedders kit? Or am I making a mistake there?

I will give Kollar racing a call, I appreciate the advice Svede, I value the advice of you guys more than whomever would be selling me something as a general rule.


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## 2006.0 (May 4, 2012)

*Update*

So I got a hold of Andy of Kollar Racing, he's been GREAT to work with so far. In the coming weeks after everything gets here, a good friend and I'll be installing:

X41771-LOVELLS POLY STRUT MOUNTS 
X82047-LOVELLS FRONT RADIUS ROD BUSHING
N81099-LOVELLS REAR RADIUS ROD BUSHINGS
N51233-LOVELLS FRONT CONTROL ARM BUSHINGS
N92350-LOVELLS CROSSMEMBER MOUNTS
N61483-LOVELLS REAR CONTROL ARM BUSHINGS
X63109-LOVELLS REAR CAMBER ADJUSTER
N92616-LOVELLS DIFFERENTIAL INSERT
LOVELLS SHOCK BUSHING
LOVELLS STRUT BOLTS
LOCK NUTS

BC Font and Rear COILOVERS 
Whiteline F&R Adjustable sway bars 
Monster Stage 2 with standard flywheel
Monster Slave Cylinder
and an MGW-P black balled shifter

*Please let me know if I am forgetting replacing something that I should while I am under there with it all tore up*.




I hope I made good choices and that my girl drives better than when she left the showroom floor... her suspension is in bad shape now, but I imagine it'll be like driving a different car around corners and have less wheel hop off the line.

This is a great forum, without the weeks of reading through all you guys' posts and searching threads I couldn't have come up with a 'known quantity' good plan or known who to talk to and get a setup done right.. I would have just been clicking add to cart on some unknown suspension kit and shooting in the dark.

I'll let ya'll know how I like everything so the next guy can have the same leg up.


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## 06BLACKGTO64 (Oct 30, 2010)

that looks like one hell of a list, i am doing just about the same exact thing minus the clutch. you will really feel the difference in handing and stopping


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## 2006.0 (May 4, 2012)

*Svede or you other pro's-*

I know you, Svede, made a tool to press a bushing doing your install.. I am new to working on car suspension, I've read of some guys doing similar work not mention anything about needing a special tool and some saying you do.

Do I need any special tools to get this done? I am tackling it Sat with my friend, he has air tools and a well well stocked garage, but I am unclear on what special tool I might need and why I need it. Please educate me. (My post a couple above this labeled "UPDATE" includes all the suspension parts and bushings I ordered and received.)

Thanks


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## 2006.0 (May 4, 2012)

*Yea.. This thread is me talking to myself*

Alright, I know I just keep talking to myself, but if anyone catches this thread wondering for an answer: 

To remove the front radius rod bushing use a 24mm socket and a 13mm socket.. No mystery here. 

The 'special' tool some people use (and I believe Svede made) is a ball joint press to easily remove the rear radius rod bushing. BUT you can replace it without one by removing the large nut from the rear radius bushing and the radius rod, then heating the metal sleeve with a torch and pushing it out, then removing the rubber. After this, reassemble the rear first then the front.

If my self-education is wrong, correct me, but I wanted to have an answer here because it sucks when you search threads and only find questions without answers.

To do it the right way, this is what Rob at Wretched Motorsports says:
1. remove the 4 13mm nuts from the front of the RR bushing

2. remove the rear RR nut (i think it's 24mm but i'm not sure) and slide it out as an assembly

3. remove the Inner lower control arm bolt and let the control arm hang.

4. Use a BJ press to press out the old bushing, DO NOT damage the inner part of the control arm

5. Install the new bushing only after cleaning the control arm 

6. The bushing comes with 2 different bushings, one of them has a larger inside diameter, this goes to the rear.

7. Replace the Lower Control arm nut, and the rear RR rod nut
92019618 radius arm nut - Set of 2 
92138178 Front LCA Nut - Set of 2 

8. torque the bolts to proper spec.


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## mongo138 (Mar 4, 2012)

*How does the car feel since you did the install?*

Hi, I have an 06 that I think needs to have the suspension done as it has 44k on it. I was wondering how your install went and what parts looked bad when you removed them.
Thanks


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## svede1212 (Nov 1, 2005)

I did all of my shocks, struts, springs, bushings and sway bars. The front sway was the biggest PITA. The only part that really looked bad when I did it was the rear shocks. It wasn't the look so much but you could compress and open it like a screen door closer it was so weak. The difference is feel and handling after upgrade of the whole car was very noticeable tho.


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## 2006.0 (May 4, 2012)

Sorry for the delay. 06BLACKGTO64: I am still in the installation process on select Saturdays. We had a few hiccups but have worked about a day and a half on it and have the cross member bushings, rear sway bar, differential insert and front and rear BC coilovers on as of today. The car drives amazing already. Dialed in approximately (Front- 5 from stiffest, Rear- 6 from softest) it is easy on bumps, but solid on turns with nearly pretty much ZERO body roll. It is also a very different experience braking and accelerating as the car does't dive under braking, but after softening the dampening to about six from softest in the rear it is solid in corners and bumps but still has ample squat under acceleration. I rode with the rear on the factory setting for dampening for 2 weeks THAT WAS STIFF! I think it was 9 from stiffest on both sides, but it didn't compress at all it seemed. Bumps were awful and the wife kept dissing my baby saying she liked my car better before, but these coilovers can be as stiff or plush as you like. My friend and I were very impressed with their adaptability and performance. It literally feels like a different car.

To answer your question Mongo: only the rear shocks were WORE out and needing replacement. The bushings and other parts so far are just much beefier and "the way it should have been from the factory." We haven't finished all the bushings or got the front sway in yet. Word to wise, the bearings in my upgrade list are an infinitely a bigger deal to replace than I had a grasp of. I'd be lost without my good friend FlamBeauHO.

SVEDE! Please tell me how you did your front sway, I unbolted it and messed with it a while before working on something else until I had a plan.

Thanks.

Sent from my ADR6425LVW using AutoGuide.Com Free App


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## LS2 MN6 (Jul 14, 2010)

The front sway bar bushings are easy.

You just have to undo the brackets from the top (you can see them in the engine bay). I did one side at a time, no issues with help from a buddy.

The rear sways need to be done when you are working on the rear control arms.


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## 2006.0 (May 4, 2012)

Thanks for the reply. We did the rear sway when we did the rear, it was a pain as well. We were running out of time doing the front.. Now I will have to look from the top next time in the front, this time I undid those bolts from underneath and it sucked on the passenger side. My problem is I couldn't figure out how to finagle the front sway out once we undid the brackets. We figured we'd have to have the time to get to more disassembling to get to it. Are you able to get it out just after undoing the brackets?


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## Steamwalker (Mar 9, 2012)

You have to drop the entire front cradle to remove the front sway bar.

http://www.hotchkis.net/_uploaded_files/2278.pdf


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## 2006.0 (May 4, 2012)

Thanks. I thought that would be the case, we just didn't have time when we got to it Saturday and I thought I read an article somewhere of a guy saying he didn't have to.


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## Steamwalker (Mar 9, 2012)

I read how peeps remove the rear sway bar without dropping the rear cradle but would think it would be impossible in the front.


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## svede1212 (Nov 1, 2005)

The front sway was a PITA. It reminded me of one of those wire puzzles where you have to turn it just right to get things apart. I got 4 new subframe bolts as they are torque to yield and didn't want to chance the front. I then dropped the front subframe by removing those old bolts and letting the thing dangle. You undo the endlinks, reach up and take off the sway brackets and then start the wire puzzle thing. It will come out but you have to get it just right. The new one is bent differently and goes right in no trouble. 

When you go to put it back together you first just install the back/driver's subframe bolt and almost tighten it up. I made a "pointer" which is what the Pedders front cradle alignment tool is. There are two datum holes in the front of the subframe. You make a tool (wood works with a bolt at each end) that spans between the holes and right in the middle of it you attach a "pointer" at a perfect right angle. Then you pivot the subframe until the pointer points at a factory stamped line that's on the front frame of the car. Install the other bolts and tighten to spec. Do your endlinks and you're done. Getting the old one out is the hassle. I read of one guy that sawed his in two and got it out that way. Somewhere I have the "official" manual on how to do it but that was it in a nut shell.


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## 2006.0 (May 4, 2012)

Thank you very much Svede and Steamwalker. I'll be tackling that (much more educated) next time we have a chance.


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## Steamwalker (Mar 9, 2012)

Yeah, I'd rather pay someone to do the front swaybar install. I was willing to tackle nearly everything else myself with the help of the forums and service manual.


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## LS2 MN6 (Jul 14, 2010)

Well if you are removing the front sway you don't really need to drop the cradle. When you install your new sway you will have to drop it though.

The way to get the sway out without dropping the cradle. Saw an end off. Problem solved.


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