# Tri-Power Experts needed !



## bowtie30 (Aug 10, 2014)

I have a stock 389 with a 1965 Tri-Power on it. It has the correct carbs and linkage. Cold starts are perfect... push the gas pedal down 1/3 of the way and hold it, turn the key and the engine starts immediately. Goes up on high idle until warm, then idles down and runs great. The problem is warm starts. After I park the car and remove all 3 air cleaners I can see a smoky haze in the center carb which I believe is caused by too high of float level. I have kept lowering the float level but still have the same problem. Is their something else besides a high float level that would cause this? I do have a 1/4" thick phenolic spacer ordered to help insulate the carb from the manifold but I'm not so sure this will solve the problem. I have searched the forums but am still at a loss. Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks. :banghead:


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## Roger that (Feb 6, 2010)

I would look at the venutri cluster and make sure there is no fuel dripping after you run it. Sounds like fuel is dripping into your intake and making it flooded/rich and hard to start.


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## bowtie30 (Aug 10, 2014)

Thanks for the reply. It's definately flooded causeing it to be hard to start. I have looked down the carburator but do not see any droplets of fuel dripping but it's getting in there some how. The carb was rebuilt recently according to records I got. I've had it apart myself, made sure everything was clean and tight when I put it back together. Still doing the same thing. Help!


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## Rukee (Feb 8, 2007)

It's not an uncommon problem as I have suffered with it in the past. Check that the floats are not getting fuel inside them and causing them to be 'heavy'. Also too much fuel pressure can cause this issue as well.


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## Roger that (Feb 6, 2010)

It could be one or a combo of 3 things:
1. Float level, you said you have adjusted that and no change. Also what Rukee said about the float leak, but most of the time they just flood out completely.
2. Needle and seat not closing properly due to debri or wore out.
3. The venturi cluster has 3 screw that hold the cluster to the bowl body. The outer two screw have metal washers but the middle needs a special fiber washer. Make sure that fiber washer is not cracked or is sealing properly, otherwise fuel will weep from the washer.


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## bowtie30 (Aug 10, 2014)

Thanks for the replys. The (brass) float appears to be good and the needle and seat are sealing fine. Didn't know about the fiber washer. I will check that tonight. My next step will be to rebuild the carb with a new kit. From what I've read on other posts it possible someone may have installed a wrong gasket. Thanks again.


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## geeteeohguy (Feb 2, 2008)

Also, your cold start technique is wrong. With the choke properly adjusted, a cold start goes as follows: one or two pumps to the floor. Take foot all the way off gas pedal. Start car up. Car should start right up and be on the fast idle cam of 1200-1500 rpm. I always kick the accelerator pedal after a second to lower the idle speed (trip it off of the fast idle cam) because I hate racing a cold engine. You should never need to give it partial throttle to start the car cold or warm. If you have to, something is wrong/out of adjustment.


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## Roger that (Feb 6, 2010)

Your starting technique you described in the original post caught my attention as well. I agree with geeteeohguy's statement.


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## bowtie30 (Aug 10, 2014)

I guess after re-reading my original post it does sound like I'm revving the **** out of the motor :nono:. As soon as it fires I let right off the gas so it might see 1500 rpm for a split second, then goes on high idle which is about 1200 rpm. Revving a cold engine is one of the worst things you can do. I just got the car a week ago so I'm still trying to sort things out and see what works best. I will try one pump to set the choke and see how that works. Thanks for your input :thumbsup:


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