# Maiden start!!!!!!!!!!



## FlambeauHO (Nov 24, 2011)

Alright, got everything hooked up and went for it earlier, got some firing but no start to begin with. Primed carb and gave it a few tries and the battery dumped pretty quick. I may have to go get a new one tomorrow.

Forward float was stuck and vent shot some fuel out which dripped down onto the intake manifold. The OER engine paint promptly lifted and wiped off!!  Who the F&*K makes engine paint with NO fuel resistance whatsoever! They will be receiving an angry email Monday :shutme 

So I adjusted the timing a bit and didn't really get any more firing. I assume the voltage has depleted enough that the coil is not receiving ample juice.

other options:

-F*&%ed up the valve adjustment or the distributor insertion.

The correction cap added a bit of confusion but I aimed the rotor at the #1 plug on the cap and made sure both valves were loose and the timing marks were in the ball park with the #1 cylinder at TDC. Could be 180 out. not sure, I'm a motorcycle guy there are too many cylinders!

I put together the engine 7 months or so ago so I am not sure how well I adjusted the valves... I am also a bit concerned about all the cranking rubbing the break in lube off my cam etc. 

Any input? pretty bummed


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## FlambeauHO (Nov 24, 2011)

Convinced its the valves, got the valve covers back off and looking for a good tutorial on adjusting the valves...


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## jetstang (Nov 5, 2008)

Don't stress, chill. Are the valves adjustable or toque to yield config? More specs please. Fix the needle seat on the carb so it doesn't dump. Where in Pcola, I'm in Niceville and work in pcola every week, maybe can take a look. Good luck. To check timing put dizzy pointing at number 1, then make sure both valves on 1 are closed, if 1 is loaded, then you are 180 out.
PM me if you want.


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## FlambeauHO (Nov 24, 2011)

Thanks! 

The valves are stock as far as I know and have the set screw. I am going to try the procedure below which says I can't do the 25 ft pound method since my heads have been milled. I live on hwy 90 just north of I10, I work swings at the base so I have a crazy schedule. But if this thing keeps giving me fits I may need the help! Thanks again for the info, gonna try it again tonight or in the AM!

Pontiac Rocker Arm Adjustment


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## jetstang (Nov 5, 2008)

That's a good valve adjusting procedure. I tighten the nut a smidge after the allen is tight just to make sure it's tight. I know a few guys that had the posi locks back off and cause havic. With the allen tight, the nut really shouldn't move at all. Even on non milled heads I still run posi locks and adjust the valves, with torquing you don't really know where your valves are adjusted to and they arent' adjusted evenly.
What base are you on, being AF in pensacola, hmm.


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## FlambeauHO (Nov 24, 2011)

I'm on NASP and work contract, no more active duty for me. About to go try the valves now I'll report back.


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## geeteeohguy (Feb 2, 2008)

You need three things to make an engine run: compression, ignition, and fuel. And they have to happen at the "right" time. It is very easy to install a timing chain out of phase....also, a distributor incorrectly. Do your basic valve lash setting, and then verify the timing/distributor is set correctly by static timing the engine. Crank the engine by hand with a breaker bar in direction of rotation until #1 cyl is on tdc compression. Pull the cist cap and verify that the rotor is pointing at #1 terminal. Look at the balancer and verify that TDC is lined up with the pointer......


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## FlambeauHO (Nov 24, 2011)

Adjusted the valves per the article. Getting some popping now and sounding almost like it wants to turn over... Battery is toast and starter is getting hot. I am off to the store to get a new battery and let things cool... Been trying the distributor in different spots to try to get it to go but no dice so far. When I did the valve lash I had #1 at TDC and I pulled the cap and verified that the rotor was pointed at 1. It was close, close enough that adjusting the distributor could put it right on 1.


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## FlambeauHO (Nov 24, 2011)

Ditched the correction cap and got the car started, unfortunately the place that did my machine work obviously did a poor job of planing my head and manifold. I have a massive exhaust leak on passenger side 4,6 and 8. Other than that it ran good. No leaks that I could see, so I will be removing the intake manifold for repaint and the passenger head and manifold for replaning... I let it run at 2000 ish for about 10 minutes and everthing else was smooth so small triumph? at least it is running. Its beer thirty. :cheers Video link below: When I rev it in the video it sounds like scratching, think it was my phones mic lol.

http://s436.photobucket.com/albums/qq81/abusch13/?action=view&current=VID_20120122_140400.mp4


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## jetstang (Nov 5, 2008)

Congrats!! Hard to move wires on a correct a cap, have to clock dizzy, not wires. I would try to reseal the manifold again without the exhaust hooked up, something may be hung. Video does sound like a heard of angry bee's. Great job, nice progress!


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## FlambeauHO (Nov 24, 2011)

Well cleaned up tonight to go get some well deserved dinner and my garage door hung up and almost fell on car. One side is hanging precariously over of as we speak. Not my day


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## FlambeauHO (Nov 24, 2011)

Thanks for the help jet! :cheers


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## geeteeohguy (Feb 2, 2008)

Also, on the intake, there are 2 different gaskets. If you use the wrong one, you will have a massive exhaust leak at the center ports.....The gasket must match the intake!!!!


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## FlambeauHO (Nov 24, 2011)

Its on the aft two exhaust ports passenger side. Other side is sealed up. Exhaust gasket matched up very nicely on install. Ill take pics when I tear in.


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## BearGFR (Aug 25, 2008)

I love it when another ***** takes its first breath.. 

Congrats :cheers

Bear


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