# Upper Control Arm Removal



## Oldeboy (Sep 17, 2012)

I am rebuilding the front suspension on my 1970 GTO. (bushings, new springs, tie rods, etc) I am having trouble getting the driver's side upper control arm off the frame bolts. The steering shaft is preventing me from getting enough travel to clear the end of the frame bolts. 
I haven't been able to pop the frame bolts out of the splined from holes. 
Any guidance out there.
Thank you.


----------



## geeteeohguy (Feb 2, 2008)

Yes. You need an air chisel with a blunt tip. They'll buzz right out with no damage, but you need to be careful. You can leave the nut on the end to protect the threads. When you reinstall, be sure to get it started in the splines before you pull it back in.


----------



## Oldeboy (Sep 17, 2012)

Ok I can get an air chisel over lunch break. Where on the assembly should I apply the blunt chisel to loosen these bolts? Thank you.


----------



## FlambeauHO (Nov 24, 2011)

Install the nut on the end of the bolt and hit it with the air chisel right on the tip of the bolt driving towards the head. Good luck


----------



## geeteeohguy (Feb 2, 2008)

And, I've done it this way too, when I can't get to the bolt tip with the drift/point: Take a prybar and put pressure on the bolt tip by prying against the exhaust manifold. You want to pre-load the bolt. Then, from the wheel side, you can give a quick zap with the air chisel with the drift bit to the bolt HEAD or the frame next to the bolt head, and the bolt will come right out. It works every time and won't damage anything, but you need a bit of finesse. Good luck.


----------



## Oldeboy (Sep 17, 2012)

Thanks guys. I picked up the air chisel over lunch and will try these techniques out tonight.


----------



## Oldeboy (Sep 17, 2012)

I managed to get these off using a variety of these methods. Thanks for the tips.


----------



## geeteeohguy (Feb 2, 2008)

Great. And now you have the air chisel to buzz the old bushings out and zap the new ones in. The exact technique is posted here if you want to check it out. Just do a thread search.


----------



## 1970 Lemans (Jul 25, 2009)

Couple of questions:

1. According to the shop manual, one is supposed to use an ordinary nut to reseat the splined bolt, as opposed to the lock nut. Why is this, what is the difference between an ordinary nut and a lock nut?

2. Can the control arm be removed by unfastening the steering shaft from the gear box and either moving it aside or removing (instead of knocking out the bolts)? I ask because I am also considering removing the gear box to replace input shaft seal.

TIA


----------



## geeteeohguy (Feb 2, 2008)

The lock nut is an interference fit and not easy to turn. The splines on the bolt are fine and easily damaged. Much easier to pull the bolts back in with regular nuts. A lock nut will tend to grab and twist the bolt, which is a bad thing. I cheat when I do them:
when the arm is back in position, I start the bolt, push the shaft against the frame, put a shim-pack or washers on the outside of the shaft, and pull the bolt back in using the washers/shims as a spacer, so I don't have to turn the nut forever to pulll the bolt back in place. And yes, you can remove the arm if you pull the column. Sometimes the exhaust manifold will hang you up, sometimes not. Many ways to skin the cat...


----------



## 1970 Lemans (Jul 25, 2009)

Thanks geeteeohguy, that makes total sense.


----------



## SDGoat619 (Mar 21, 2011)

Wish I would have read this before I did mine last week. I used an extension, ratchet and breaker bar. Now I need to fined new bolts as my splines are now rounded. 

Sent from my EVO using AutoGuide.Com Free App


----------



## 1970 Lemans (Jul 25, 2009)

Once the splined bolt is fully seated, can one position the control arm/shims in place and torque the lock nut to spec without a wrench on the bolt head? That is, are the fully seated splines strong enough to keep the bolt from turning, or could they become stripped even after seating?


----------



## geeteeohguy (Feb 2, 2008)

Yes. The splines will hold the bolt in place. That's how we do them in industry. You only turn the nut, never the bolt. Very simple. SDGoat 619, you can try new bolts, but if you spun them in the frame and wiped the splines, you also wiped the frame too...the new bolts will probably spin, too. Once the holes are hogged out, that's it....you'll have to use a socket and a wrench to remove/install shims....makes alignment very awkward.


----------



## SDGoat619 (Mar 21, 2011)

geeteeohguy said:


> Yes. The splines will hold the bolt in place. That's how we do them in industry. You only turn the nut, never the bolt. Very simple. SDGoat 619, you can try new bolts, but if you spun them in the frame and wiped the splines, you also wiped the frame too...the new bolts will probably spin, too. Once the holes are hogged out, that's it....you'll have to use a socket and a wrench to remove/install shims....makes alignment very awkward.


This news is awesome....." Very sarcastic tone ". Ha I will try new bolts first and hope they seat and get lucky. 

Sent from my EVO using AutoGuide.Com Free App


----------



## BearGFR (Aug 25, 2008)

It's a gamble, but you could try using GREEN Loctite on the bolt shoulders where they go through the frame to see if that will lock them in. Be careful not to get that stuff on the threads where the nuts go because supposedly removing green loctite-ed fasteners requires heat.

Bear


----------



## geeteeohguy (Feb 2, 2008)

SD, yes, I can be a turd sometimes, and I apologize. Bear brough up something that didn't occur to me while posting my sarcastic rant, and it's a great idea...I've used the green loctite "sleeve locker" on some pretty sloppy stuff, and it works great. That, and the sharp new splines on the new bolts might put you back in business. Also, with any luck, the bolt splines are softer than the frame, and took the brunt of the abuse. Sarcastic or not, wishing you the best results. And I have to admit, I've destroyed my fair share of "stuff" due to lack of knowledge. The good thing is, once you learn, you know better the next time!!


----------



## 1970 Lemans (Jul 25, 2009)

geeteeohguy --

I think SD's "very sarcastic tone" comment was intended as a characterization of his own comment "This is awesome news", not as a characterization of what you were saying. At least that is how I read it.


----------



## geeteeohguy (Feb 2, 2008)

You're right, '70, and thanks for the support. I still could have been a bit more tactful, though! Live and learn.......


----------



## SDGoat619 (Mar 21, 2011)

I never mean to sound disrespectful and that sarcastic tone was for myself not directed towards any of you. I am here to learn and want to make sure everyone knows that I truly appreciate all of your help. I was more frustrated with myself. Also the fact that the city flagged my car as a "public nuisance" for sitting on a private driveway, under a car cover with my front end disassembled and on jack stands. Now I have 7 days to fix and get back in business. Performance Years has the bolts with splines and OPGI has bolts without. I called a rep at OPGI and he assured me that it made no differance also that the ones they have come with washers. So now I am thinking that with some lockwashers and new bolts from the hardware store and some locktite could I be back in business.


----------



## SDGoat619 (Mar 21, 2011)

Again thanks to all for your advise and help I do appreciate it


----------



## geeteeohguy (Feb 2, 2008)

SD, please listen up: it DOES make a difference if the bolts are splined or not. When you go to have the car aligned, and the front end is all together with the wheels on the car, there is limited room to get to the back of the bolt head to hold it in place while you attempt to loosen the nut to adjust the shim packs. The ONLY reason that GM went thru the time and expense of machining the frame and splining the bolts was so the car could be aligned...by loosening the NUT without having to try to keep the BOLT from freewheeling. Sure, you can install any bolt. But you_ can't_ align the car easily afterwards. The guy who told you it "doesn't matter" is uninformed to the point of being dangerous. I would disregard any further advice from that source. You _don't want _to use any lockwashers. They will keep the bolt heads away from the frame rail, and the splines will not go in deep enough. _Do as Bear recommended_: drive in some splined bolts with lock-tite green on them. You'll probably be ok.


----------



## SDGoat619 (Mar 21, 2011)

This need to be flush with the control arm right. I can't remember how they looked when I removed them.

Sent from my EVO using AutoGuide.Com Free App


----------



## geeteeohguy (Feb 2, 2008)

Yep. You need to buzz 'em in that last 1/4-3/8".


----------



## SDGoat619 (Mar 21, 2011)

Got the bushings pressed in that final 1/4in, I had to go buy a 32mm socket and that did a great job. Here are some pics of the mock up minus the coils and springs. Its coming along... Hopefully more time to work on it this weekend. Also a pic oh my helper. 

Sent from my EVO using AutoGuide.Com Free App


----------



## SDGoat619 (Mar 21, 2011)

Some more pics 

Sent from my EVO using AutoGuide.Com Free App


----------



## Dave K (Jul 20, 2016)

*Easier Way?*

I have a 67 GTO, had the same problem, and surfed the Internet for days looking for a way to get those studs out. This forum was the closest thing I could find; however, getting an air chisel between the engine and the studs wasn't difficult, it was impossible. Maybe the 70 and the 67 are considerably different? Either way, I came-up with a 5-minute solution. I put one nut back on the stud (leaving 1/4 inch of thread extending off the end of the stud), then put a large Grade-8 washer onto the stud, then took the other nut and caught the remaining three rows of thread. This left about 3/4 of an inch of empty threads between the nuts I attached and the frame. I then went into the wheel well, pushed the control arm up as far as it would go, and fished the end of my slide-hammer (cheap at Harbor Freight, free rental from the car parts stores) and used the single end claw to catch the top of the washer. I hit the slide once and the stud was out. The other stud, same result...two total slides of the hammer and I was done. I completed the entire project (including cleanup and two beers) in 15 minutes.


----------

