# intake manifold removal....



## Instg8ter (Sep 28, 2010)

have a few lifters that appear stuck so i need to pull the intake and valley pan. when i installed gaskets i used a little copper tack on them and now they are sealed good, was wondering if a little acetone in the connection will loosen them up as my manifold is alum. Eddy and i dont want to scar heads or manifold trying to pry on it. Any other suggestions would be appreciated.... :confused


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## Jeff's Classics (Feb 24, 2010)

Instg8ter said:


> have a few lifters that appear stuck so i need to pull the intake and valley pan. when i installed gaskets i used a little copper tack on them and now they are sealed good, was wondering if a little acetone in the connection will loosen them up as my manifold is alum. Eddy and i dont want to scar heads or manifold trying to pry on it. Any other suggestions would be appreciated.... :confused


Try a rubber mallet, a big one.

Also, sometimes you can find a pry point that isn't visible, like around the plenum area where the carb mounts.

Or, try a small flat blade screwdriver, gently tap it in around the front end to loosen that seal, then use a larger screwdriver or pry bar and slowly work that end loose. Once you get an end loose it should come right off pretty easily. Just need that first bit of leverage.

Jeff


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## BearGFR (Aug 25, 2008)

Instg8ter said:


> have a few lifters that appear stuck so i need to pull the intake and valley pan. when i installed gaskets i used a little copper tack on them and now they are sealed good, was wondering if a little acetone in the connection will loosen them up as my manifold is alum. Eddy and i dont want to scar heads or manifold trying to pry on it. Any other suggestions would be appreciated.... :confused


Take a wooden-handled hammer or a length of wooden 1" (or so) dowel rod. Come in from the front on the passenger side and insert it under the front water crossover between the crossover and the valley cover. Work the end of the "tool" as close as you can over to the edge of the valley cover where it meets the head, so you don't bend the cover, then lift up. Slow, steady pressure is the key. Gaskets tend to "give up" slowly.

Bear


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## Instg8ter (Sep 28, 2010)

thats what i did Bear, went under with long beaker bar and got a leverage point on the edge of the valley pan and gave it a little whack with the rubber mallet and it popped. think i will have to clearance the pushrod holes for the 1:65 rockers, whats the best method as some are 4" long bores, just oval out the ends? l also wanted to ask what Mr. P-bodies method was for setting lash w/o soaking the new lifters, was looking back for that post but could not find it.....:confused


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## BearGFR (Aug 25, 2008)

Instg8ter said:


> thats what i did Bear, went under with long beaker bar and got a leverage point on the edge of the valley pan and gave it a little whack with the rubber mallet and it popped. think i will have to clearance the pushrod holes for the 1:65 rockers, whats the best method as some are 4" long bores, just oval out the ends? l also wanted to ask what Mr. P-bodies method was for setting lash w/o soaking the new lifters, was looking back for that post but could not find it.....:confused


I know Eastwood and probably others sell a "head porting kit" that includes abrasive rolls and a long mandrel for reaching "deep".

You'll want to pull the heads to do it, ortherwise all the dust and grit will wind up in your oiling system --- not good. Also if you're going to 1.65's on a motor that originally had 1.5's, be sure and check the contact patch between the rocker tip and the valve tip to make sure the rockers touch the center third of the valve stem throughout a complete engine revolution. If it's not right, you may need different length pushrods to get it back where it needs to be. Keep in mind if you've got hydraulic lifters then it's going to be tough to check because you won't have oil pressure keeping the pushrod cups in the lifters "up". Get one solid lifter just for checking, or termporarily replace the valve spring with a very light "checking spring".

Mr. P's procedure is "around here somewhere" --- Ah! Found it! It's on Topkat's "Valley Pan" thread.
We no longer "soak" lifters prior to installation. That has changed about 10 years ago. Since most Pontiacs today use an "adjustable" valve train, it's far easier to get the lash "correct" by installing the entire valve train prior to installing the valley cover. Set the lash to where the plunger in the lifter depresses about .020-.030" (about 1/2 the "travel"). Use ONLY the "firing order" method of setting lash.

This method is perfect for mild cam applicatons (non-adjustable), and is also quite good for those that must use adjustable rockers, and install the inner springs after cam "break-in". 

Prior to initial "start up", the oil system is well primed with a drill, effectively lubing and "filling" the lifters. ​


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