# Suspension Upgrade!



## Falco21 (May 11, 2010)

Well I will be shopping for suspension upgrades in a few weeks and was just wondering what everyone thinks of my list right now? I am looking into new springs and possibly coil overs, but that will be in the future. Don't have enough money saved for that right now. Here is the current list. Recommendations are always welcome!! 


Lovell's Differential Insert
Energy Suspension Master Kit
Front Radius Rod Bushings
Rear Radius Rod Bushings
Poly Strut Mounts
Upper Shock Bushings


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## svede1212 (Nov 1, 2005)

If you're doing the rear radius rod bushes I'd do the lower control arm bushes too. I also have come to think the rear inner (and to a lesser extent, outer) control arm bushings are more important than the diff insert (the Energy kit has a partial fill for the diff insert). I'm not sure if that's in the Energy kit but the rear control arm bushes if done need to be done the same time as the subframe bushes


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## Falco21 (May 11, 2010)

The Energy Suspension Kit includes:

Front Control Arm Bushings
Rear Control Arm Bushings
Front Sway Bar Bushings
Complete Sway Bar Bushings Set
Rear Subframe Bushings Set (Street Firm Style)


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## GM4life (Mar 18, 2007)

If you do the rear subframe bushings do the rear control arm bushings too. So you don't have to drop the cradle a second time. You have to drop the cradle to do the rear contol arm bushings too.


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## Falco21 (May 11, 2010)

Ok so basically I have this I need:

Energy Suspension Master Kit (Includes the rear control arm bushing.)
Lovells Differential Insert (I read the one in the energy package is not a high end product, so it is recommended to replace it.)
Front Radius Rod Bushings
Rear Radius Rod Bushings
Poly Strut Mounts
Upper Shock Bushings
Lower Control Arm Bushings

By replacing all this, I will expect a major difference in handling correct?
Also, is there any difficulty in replacing any of these parts? Is there anything I should know before hand, so I don't find out the hard way? :lol:


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## jpalamar (Jul 22, 2008)

Some of the bushing will be a PITA to get out but in general it isn't a horrible install. A buddy of mine has a distributer contract and Energy Suspension . I'm sure I could save you a few bucks on the master kit if your interested. He also has Whiteline parts(I believe they make good poly strut mounts).


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## Falco21 (May 11, 2010)

Definitely! When I am ready to make the purchase I will shoot you a PM before I do to let you know. I really appreciate it.


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## svede1212 (Nov 1, 2005)

Falco21 said:


> Ok so basically I have this I need:
> 
> Energy Suspension Master Kit (Includes the rear control arm bushing.)
> Lovells Differential Insert (I read the one in the energy package is not a high end product, so it is recommended to replace it.)
> ...


Well I can only give you my experience. I've used the Energy insert, Noltec insert (same as Lovells and Pedders basically) and the Harrop cover. The inserts did nothing for wheel hop, were negligible for handling and I wouldn't consider them an upgrade. The Energy is close to the Noltec in effect.The Harrop makes a difference but at a cost of over $400 isn't for everyone. The rear inner and outer control arm bushings help a lot more. I highly recommend them. They help with hop, handling and rear wheel camber. I can give some advice on install as well if you like when you get to it. I did every one (and more) in my garage with the car on jack stands.

PS, you'll get more of an increase in handling with springs, shocks and struts altho I'd advise the bushings too


To get rear control arm bushings out I drilled voids in them and then used heat and this tool


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## svede1212 (Nov 1, 2005)

To give a better concept of the Energy vs the other diff inserts, the diff mounting piece has a rubber area inside that the diff bolts to. There are 2 voids in that rubber for NVH. The Energy isn't a "lower quality" but is a single piece that filld only the top void. The others fill both. For the cost of them and the minimal benefit I'd do the Energy, buy a tube of 3M Windo-Weld urethane and fill that other void with that. Then you can use the rest of the tube to fill the voids on the transmission mount and stiffen that up.

Transmission mount mod


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## Falco21 (May 11, 2010)

Thank you for the input svede! I will make sure to get the rear inner and outer control arm bushings as well. 

I know handling will increase dramatically with springs, shocks, and struts, but right now I do not have enough saved for all that so I figured I would replace all the bushings first. I'm sure replacing the bushings will stiffen up the ride quite a bit then the way it is stock. I probably will go with springs though. Which ones do you recommend from personal experience? And how much of a drop if any did you go with?


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## svede1212 (Nov 1, 2005)

I went with Lovells 20mm drop all around. My car is an all around car so I didn't want to get into race ride. The Lovells are stiffer than stock (comparable to Pedders) but aren't jarring like stiff Kings plus Andy at Koller Racing is good to work with. Believe me I know that doing the suspension is expensive and I did mine in stages as well and waited for deals too. Even at that with sways, springs, shocks, struts, bushings, Harrop cover and endlinks I ended up over two grand. I'd save up and do the back end (shocks/springs) next.


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## Falco21 (May 11, 2010)

Yea exactly. So basically you think I should buy all my bushings and then start with the rear shocks and springs?


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## svede1212 (Nov 1, 2005)

Falco21 said:


> Yea exactly. So basically you think I should buy all my bushings and then start with the rear shocks and springs?


Yup. The back springs sag easily and the shocks are as strong as a screen door closer. Also unless your front strut mounts/bearings are bad I'd wait on those until you do the front struts/springs and do the front all at once.


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## Falco21 (May 11, 2010)

Well I found lovells rear springs 350mm that goes perfect with lovells front springs 340mm. I believe they are around $360 for both. So I think I'm just going to buy both front and rear springs with all the bushings. Spend the entire day doing the entire suspension.


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## svede1212 (Nov 1, 2005)

You'll be happy with those springs. I'd give myself a weekend to get it done so when you run into an issue you aren't feeling rushed


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## Falco21 (May 11, 2010)

Yea I was talking to my dad and he said the same thing. We also gotta do the clutch and GMM Ripshift so that will take at least another day or two. So, we just got to map it out. lol. I'm excited though. Hopefully this will make the car feel much much better. Then my next goal is some wheels.


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## svede1212 (Nov 1, 2005)

After 7 years I'm still on the stock wheels (well the backs were widened to 9"). I came to the conclusion that I liked the sleeper look and would rather surprise someone with it's quickness than it's bling. I also found it keeps the car under the police "radar" which can be a very good thing. Wheels and tires can easily cost $2,000. That's a cam, cheap headers and a tune with some change left over.


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## Falco21 (May 11, 2010)

Very true lol I didn't even think of it that way. I guess my problem is I see the rims and I fall in love with them. These are pictures of the rims on the same car I have. 2005 PBM. He was a member on here a while back.Their AXIS Shine wheels with a staggered setup of 19x9.5 in the front and 19x10 in the back. Absolutely fell in love!! lol 

And your right, these are gonna be around $2000 including all 4 tires. Not too bad, but definitely can get more performance parts for that same money


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## svede1212 (Nov 1, 2005)

Everybody has different priorities but go fast is mine and I learned a long time ago that standing out has a lot of draw backs.


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## Falco21 (May 11, 2010)

Yea exactly. See I'm torn between choosing the less of two evils if you think about it in that way. lol. I really wanted to change the look of the stock wheels and put some nice shoes on it to go with all my suspension upgrades, but then I would have to deal with more attention by the cops, like I don't have enough already. I could go with the go fast mods, but I don't want to risk drive ability nor the gas going lower than it already is. This is my DD and I am a full time student. It's a little tough on the gas already with the prices sky rocketing.


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## svede1212 (Nov 1, 2005)

Well the only way headers and a tune will hurt gas is when you feel more like getting on it. A tune alone will help with it and headers make the cylinder charge fill more efficiently. My car is well over 400 RWHP and I get 25-26 highway with it yet.


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## Falco21 (May 11, 2010)

Well I have headers and a full exhaust. The only other things I would look into doing would be a bigger cam and heads. I do need a tune though. I was gonna take up to a dyno near me that was highly recommended. Wanted to get the clutch and suspension installed before that though.


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## LS2 MN6 (Jul 14, 2010)

Falco21 said:


> Ok so basically I have this I need:
> 
> Energy Suspension Master Kit (Includes the rear control arm bushing.)
> Lovells Differential Insert (I read the one in the energy package is not a high end product, so it is recommended to replace it.)
> ...


I've got all those bushings (everything from Lovell's + the Energy Kit) I'm going to install them with new Springs, Struts & Shocks this summer. You will need a press tool to get the old control arm bushings out, and a spring compressor (I'm pretty sure) to change the strut mount. I bought both.

Also be prepared to tie strap and ratchet one side of the car to line-up the sub frame. Apparently even if you only do one side at a time, one side likes to "slip."


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## svede1212 (Nov 1, 2005)

LS2 MN6 said:


> I've got all those bushings (everything from Lovell's + the Energy Kit) I'm going to install them with new Springs, Struts & Shocks this summer. You will need a press tool to get the old control arm bushings out, and a spring compressor (I'm pretty sure) to change the strut mount. I bought both.
> 
> Also be prepared to tie strap and ratchet one side of the car to line-up the sub frame. Apparently even if you only do one side at a time, one side likes to "slip."


Good points. I used a come-a-long to pull my rear subframe into position. You can get a cheap spring compressor at Harbor Freight and I made my bushing press out of hardware store stuff. I drilled a lot of the middle of the bushing out first and then used a propane torch to heat the bushings to soften them up.


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## Falco21 (May 11, 2010)

In your opinion, did the control arm bushings make much of a difference? I have read countless posts from people saying to not even bother changing them, the hassle to do it doesn't come with much of a benefit or difference


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## LS2 MN6 (Jul 14, 2010)

Falco21 said:


> In your opinion, did the control arm bushings make much of a difference? I have read countless posts from people saying to not even bother changing them, the hassle to do it doesn't come with much of a benefit or difference


The fronts don't look too difficult since you basically can remove the control arm. However the rears have to be done on the car (unless you want to create a bunch of work for yourself removing the brake and hub).

I'm going to do my rears anyway. I'm planning on the car being down two to three days and then a fourth day to get an alignment. I'm doing it over my vacation on 4th of July week.


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## Falco21 (May 11, 2010)

Hopefully I should have all my parts in by then. If you could, let me know how everything goes. I just read your sig and everything I'm ordering, you have haha Nice to know someone will be in the same boat.


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## svede1212 (Nov 1, 2005)

Falco21 said:


> In your opinion, did the control arm bushings make much of a difference? I have read countless posts from people saying to not even bother changing them, the hassle to do it doesn't come with much of a benefit or difference


Yes they do. The stock ones first off are rubber. The inner ones also have big voids in them which allow the arm to move in the bushing. As I noted in another thread sometimes you can put bigger tires in the back and have no rubbing yet when you corner the tires rub. A lot of that is from the arm movement and poly bushings prevent that. The bushings also help with camber. There is no adjustment for rear camber and as the springs sag or you put on lowering springs the rear tires tilt in at the top causing wear on the inside of the tires. The bushings can make the camber better than with the stock ones because it holds the arm where it should be. My rear camber is 1.4º with 20mm drop springs on. That's as good as a stock height car.


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## Falco21 (May 11, 2010)

Well this is my first time working on suspension, but theres always a first for everything =) we will see how it goes. When I get home in a couple weeks, I will go under and look at how hard or easy some of these bushings look. All in all, it should be a fun interesting journey.


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## svede1212 (Nov 1, 2005)

Don't sweat it. I'd never done it before I did this car and altho challenging it was very doable and I'm 61. If you tackle it in pieces it won't seem so daunting and of course you can get help here too.


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## Falco21 (May 11, 2010)

I'm pretty good with stuff like this so it's not bothering me too much. I'm sure I can take a look at it and figure out which bolts and such to unscrew to get to the bushings. Haven't seen the car in a couple months, just trying to picture it from here lol


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