# Tale of two heads



## 67ventwindow (Mar 3, 2020)

I can Identify this one no issue









This one stumped me.


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## 67ventwindow (Mar 3, 2020)

The second one looks to be a 76 head. Under the valve cover was 8776 and date code looks like I235. So I have mixed heads. So if the compression is still 10+ I will look into aluminum heads.


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## deanhickey (Apr 6, 2015)

Interesting mix, you might be able to find a set of matching cast iron heads for a fraction of the price of aluminum.


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## 67ventwindow (Mar 3, 2020)

deanhickey said:


> Interesting mix, you might be able to find a set of matching cast iron heads for a fraction of the price of aluminum.


I don't know enough about this motor, I am still examining it to see what is what. The PO said it was a stock rebuild and didn't elaborate on what that meant. I will scope the cylinders the week end and see what the pistons look like. Trying to determine where I stand.


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## deanhickey (Apr 6, 2015)

67ventwindow said:


> I don't know enough about this motor, I am still examining it to see what is what. The PO said it was a stock rebuild and didn't elaborate on what that meant. I will scope the cylinders the week end and see what the pistons look like. Trying to determine where I stand.


One route is to pull the heads and measure the bore to see what you have for displacement and bore condition. Look at your rods see if they all match. (this is from experience) and to see if any corners have been cut. Good luck with this. Is your car a 65? if so the one of the heads may be original. aluminum heads are nice but there are always other routes to go that can save you a few bucks and be just as good.


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## 67ventwindow (Mar 3, 2020)

I understand what your saying about determining real CR. I am just curious and trying not to blowup the motor, what little it will be running before the original 326 is reinstalled. I should have a couple years before the 400 is needed back in the car. My planning is based on the lack of a dedicated space to work on the car. Move the car in install $%^# and move it back out. Between cars, ATVs, lawn and farm equipment I cant leave things in my garage. I have barns for them. New plastic cars can sit outside.


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## deanhickey (Apr 6, 2015)

67ventwindow said:


> I understand what your saying about determining real CR. I am just curious and trying not to blowup the motor, what little it will be running before the original 326 is reinstalled. I should have a couple years before the 400 is needed back in the car. My planning is based on the lack of a dedicated space to work on the car. Move the car in install $%^# and move it back out. Between cars, ATVs, lawn and farm equipment I cant leave things in my garage. I have barns for them. New plastic cars can sit outside.


If you are just worried about detonation just bump up the octane of your fuel and run it. Save money and with the higher octane high/ original compression should not be an issue.


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## 67ventwindow (Mar 3, 2020)

Worried is when you have to be on the lookout for good high test everytime you drive. It is limited to have octane boost at the ready or be during the operating hours of the parts store. It like when I smoked years ago. No thank you. There is a easy fix ( not cheap). I bought the car to drive for the most part. When my daughter says "daddy drive" I will not say I cant I don't have octane boost.


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## deanhickey (Apr 6, 2015)

I understand you want to drive on demand, I was comparing the price of new aluminum heads (1,500.00 and up) to the cost of octane boost. You can buy it by the case and reduce the cost and always have a ready supply on hand. The. choice is your's to make just wanted to point out the options.


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## 67ventwindow (Mar 3, 2020)

Its all good. I budgeted for new engine, new trans, new rear, new frame and paint-n-body. Before I saw this car. I have been working on the plan for a while. Now I need to figure out how this car and with the parts that are good how this will evolve.Still picking over the bones. Ruminating on things.


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