# Vacuum hose routing for hideaways?



## petet (Nov 5, 2013)

Hi,
I wonder how to connect the hideaway vacuum hoses + other vacuum hoses to (front of the engine) vacuum valve* with 5 outlets (DA, DR, CA, CR and MT).

Set up is GTO 69 w/ 400/400, 4bbl quadrajet, heater (non AC), distributor (orig.) has only advance outlet.

I have a new complete vacuum hose set for hideaways, but do not know how to connect hoses to the engine vacuum system.
Hose set has been connected in correct way to hideaway doors actuators.
Now it's only then engine part left.

For the vacuum valve*, shall there be a vacuum hose connected every single outlet? Which hose to which letter-coded outlet then?

And if not, can the unused outlet be left open? Or should I tap them?

I would be very happy the get confirmation if all vacuum hoses to distributor and carb are connected correctly. 

With the old vacuum hoses the hideaway door were opened nicely when lights were switched on, but they did not close after being switched off. :/ 

Anyways, as far as I understood, the there was something wrong with the hose connection. I could be wrong too, but that's my guess.

Please, help me!

Pete


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## JVM225 (Jun 18, 2007)

My car is a 68 with automatic, and AC so it's probably a little different.
Not sure if your 69 needs all 5 ports on the Thermostatic Vacuum Switch. 
The main purpose of the TVS in 68(as I understood it) was to control the vacuum advance, and switch the vacuum from ported to manifold in order to advance the timing at idle if the engine temp rises above a certain amount. 
I don't know if it is different on the 69's, but the TVS has nothing to do with vacuum supply to the hideaways on the 68.
My Hideaways don't pick up vacuum from that switch. They pick it up off the rear of the carb from a vacuum tree threaded in to the baseplate on the rear of the carb. The Power Brake Booster also gets vacuum from that same tree. My AC gets vacuum from a tee off the hideaway vacuum line back there.
Not near the car right now, but going from memory:
Anyway: My hideaways get vacuum from the spot I mentioned.
From there the hose splits with one side going through the firewall to the switch for supply, and the other going to the storage tank in the left front fender behind the battery. There is a check valve in the line going to the storage tank.
From the switch, two vacuum lines go through the firewall and get routed to the actuators. They tee off before they get to the actuators so that one of each goes to the open side of the actuators, and one of each goes to the close side of the actuators.
If your hideaways opened, I would think the switch is getting vacuum, and at least the open side of the actuators is getting vacuum which means the vacuum part of the switch is doing something.
If the doors don't close, then the close side of the actuators isn't getting vacuum when you close the switch. 
Since you don't have AC, maybe you can get to the switch, and swap things around a bit to see what happens. That might enable you to see if you have a problem in the switch, or in the lines that aren't closing the doors right now.


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## Matthew (Feb 11, 2011)

Pete, I have a 68 as well and my hideaways work fine. I have a single vacuum line coming off the TVS to the headlight switch. I agree with JVM225, if you have vacuum to open the headlight doors, you should have the vacuum needed to close them, if set up properly. It should be easy to isolate your problem. At the offset connection near the fire wall, use a vacuum pressure tester to open and close your headlight doors. If you are unable to close the doors from there, it is most likely not the headlight switch. 

If the doors do close, you have: 1) bad switch, 2) vacuum leak at or near the switch, or 3) vacuum leak between the switch and the vacuum canister. We can isolate which one of these once you test the vacuum lines to the headlight doors.

Another way to test the circuit is to use a vacuum gage on the two lines coming from the fire wall/headlight switch. If one of these lines show no vacuum, your problems is one of the 3 mentioned. 

Again, if you were unable to close the doors using a vacuum pressure tester, work your way towards the actuators at each connection with the vacuum pressure tester. Report back with what you find or don't find. Matt


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## 1coolduck (Apr 3, 2012)

I just completed hideaway system in my 68. All NEW parts from switch to pods. I have aftermarket intake, so I just used vaccume port on bottom back of carb. Ran thru check valve to switch and out to pods, (the vac can in there too). mine opened fine but wouldnt close also. Turned uot had a bad vaccume pod, and it was brand new. Ordered another, now works fine, it still takes longer to close than open. I think it is because of the cam in my motor tho.. 
good luck


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