# Alignment After Front End Rebuild



## 1970 Lemans (Jul 25, 2009)

I've never rebuilt a front end suspension before, but notice that a number here are in the process of so doing.

So, a general question I have is how does one determine correct suspension alignment (caster, camber, toe-in/out)? How do you know when the tie rods are correctly spaced, upper control arms shimmed, yata, yata? Do you need special equipment, or do you eyeball it good enough and then slowly drive it to a near-by alignment shop?

TIA


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## 66tempestGT (Nov 28, 2009)

most people put everything back like it came apart. put all the shims you take out back exactly where they came from. i count the turns when taking tie rods apart then screw the new ones back in the same amount. that doesnt always work but it gets you in the ballpark. you can check the toe with a measuring tape and get it close enough to drive a little ways. or trailor/rollback


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## jetstang (Nov 5, 2008)

Get it all close and get it aligned. I measure the overall length of the tierods before I start, then adjust the new ones to the exact length. Then you can put a mark on the front tires, measure the front, roll the car backwards, measure again. You are looking for about 1/8" less front then rear. If front is same as rear or larger, then the car will bump steer and wander with every little bump.


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## geeteeohguy (Feb 2, 2008)

I agree with the above. You're not going to have much luck with the caster and camber adjustments if you didn't count shims, and that may be moot anyway with new springs, bushings, and balljoints. The one that will wipe new tires out is Toe adjustment. You can do this easily in the driveway with a tape. Just center the steering wheel, and measure the back edge of the tires and the front edge of the tires. yu should be at o difference between the two, or no more than about 1/4 inch. You can go about 6-8 feet in front of the car and look down each side, towards the back of the car and line the front wheel visually with the rear to check your work. You'd be surprised to see how minute an adjustment that is "off" you will see. This will get you to the ALIGNMENT SHOP, where the car needs to go to finish the job. Good Luck!


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## freethinker (Nov 14, 2009)

you can get it pretty close and then drive it to an alignment shop. for camber you use a carpenters level against the tire up and down. straight up and down is o camber. for caster you try to get the ball joint centers straight up and down. that is o caster.
toe is the most important. it will ruin tires fast if its off much. jack up the tire so you can spin it. take a can of spray paint and spray a 1 inch band all around the tire while spinning it. then take a long screwdriver and support it in something like a jackstand and make a mark in the paint band while spinning the tire all the way around. this establishes perfect center. do this on both sides. then secure the steering wheel in center. then measure between the marks adjusting as necessary to achieve correct toein.
a word of caution. on gm a body cars if your ride height is jacked up much above stock you probably will not be able to achieve proper caster and camber specs.


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## 1970 Lemans (Jul 25, 2009)

Thanks for the feedback everyone. 

All common sense stuff ... good to know.


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## geeteeohguy (Feb 2, 2008)

Excellent quick and easy "garage tips" by Freethinker. Will easily get you in the ballpark. Well put!


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## 1970 Lemans (Jul 25, 2009)

Are final alignment specs determined with the vehicle full weighted on the front tires, with the tires off the ground, or does it make any difference?

TIA

Oops ... never mind. Just looked in the shop manual where it clearly states at curb weight.


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