# sound dampening the 65



## crustysack (Oct 5, 2008)

started the sound dampening of the 65 today -got the doors and the ceiling done- I will say that this stuff makes a huge difference just by the way the panels sound by tapping on the outside of them- the stuff I used is called rattletrap by Fatmat -it is much less expensive than dynamat and performs just as well - and of course some pics :cheers


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## johnnylightning03 (Nov 27, 2007)

funny, i was just recommended to do that today by a guy tom who is doing my seats. we were talking about the headliner and he mentioned dynamat and the noise reduction. nice to know about the cheaper alternative. thanks for the tip. beautiful job and carbon work by the way. my 66 gto is out of the rotisserie and now being wet sanded and buffed after a year and a half. so with interior my on my next to do list, this is helpful info at the right time :cheers


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## crustysack (Oct 5, 2008)

I got it on ebay for about $160 for 100 sq ft for the 80 mil thick stuff- I plan on doing the whole car- floors,trunk, firewall,- I have ridden in cars before and after with this stuff and it makes a huge difference- and its very easy to put on


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## Too Many Projects (Nov 15, 2008)

Is it self-adhesive or glue on? I've read some bad stories about sound deadener coming loose on the roof and falling down on the headliner. Hope it stays put. I'd like to do that with all mine as I get them to that point too. It DOES make a huge difference in the sound level and resonance inside.


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## yammiman (Apr 19, 2009)

How important do you think it is to even do the roof? - I have a couple of cars that I want to do, but I'm removing the interior, not putting in new - don't really want to pull the headliners it I don't have to!! :confused


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## crustysack (Oct 5, 2008)

the material is self adhesive-VERY sticky- all consumer reports say that once applied properly it will not come loose
yamminan- keep in mind that you already have sound dampening material under your headliner from the original build- if you are not removing the headliner dont worry about it- this material is an upgrade from the technology that was used in 65- and I am doing a frame off resto I had COMPLETELY removed my whole interior and now that I am putting it back I am trying to use whats available now to make my ride more comforatable


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## Eric Animal (Oct 28, 2007)

I have been toying with the idea of spray on bedliner...all inside panels, RED in the wheel wells (like the 67 optional inserts) and black on outer floor pans (like under coat)....from what I am being told, the only negative is weight. I am not too worried about that, only the fact that it is permanent. Then again, who changes thier sound insulation on a regular basis??? Comments ? Thanks, Eric


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## geeteeohguy (Feb 2, 2008)

Eric, the bedliner is tough as nails, but my only concern would be if it cracked and let moisture in and became a water trap. But, I guess regular undercoating would do the same thing. The only negative would be removal...nearly impossible. I work with a guy who "Rhino-Lined" his Toyota Truck, and when it was time for a change, he was stuck with it. Would not come off.


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## crustysack (Oct 5, 2008)

more sound dampening pics- also note that this stuff sticks Much better when warm- so I started using a heat gun


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## Fred007 (Jul 23, 2008)

Wondering if anyone has any experience with some of the other spray on (non bedliner) products? I've been looking at something called LizardSkin Lizardskin Ceramic Insulation and Sound Control Spray-on Formula to spray on the underside of the body. The thought is to act as an undercoat, sound barrier and insulator. I was also planning on something like what you've done with Dynamat/Fattmat on the inside. But then I wondered about using the spray on stuff inside as well. Then, I read the comments about getting it off, and that makes sense. Once you spray this stuff on, it is really not going to want to come off. So, it seems to make more sense on the inside to go with a matting type product. Thoughts?


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## crustysack (Oct 5, 2008)

I have not used the Lizard skin but had heard good reviews, I thought its main use was for areas that you cant reach with the dynamat/fatmat- and as far as getting the fatmat off consider it 99% permanent - it would take twice as long to get it all off after its been on for any amount of time ,the stuff is that sticky


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## injn37 (Nov 16, 2008)

Use this stuff pretty regularly on my streetrods. Permanent is an understatement! Don't plan on getting underneath it without chemicals! It makes a huge difference in the ride/sound quality of the ride! Used Dynamat on the 65, and now you tell me about a cheaper alternative 

Do use the rubber and wood rollers to install this stuff. Makes it stick real good and does help the damping qualities of the material, as the bond changes the resonance frequency of the base metal. 

Crusty, yours going to be ready for sunlight this summer, as you are just down the road from me?

rich


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## olde-goat (Feb 1, 2009)

Does it make sense to add any sound proofing to convertible floors etc?


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## geeteeohguy (Feb 2, 2008)

olde-goat, the floors on convertibles had tar paper insulation under the carpets just like the coupes and hardtops. I don't know about you, but my convertible is actually more quiet going down the road with the top DOWN! If/when I get around to re-replacing my carpet, I'll be using Fatmat or Dynamat underneath. If it was available in '93 when I did the interior, I sure didn't know about it!!! If nothing else, it will be a huge help keeping engine and exhaust heat out of the car on summer days.


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## crustysack (Oct 5, 2008)

hopefully I'll be on the road this season, some minor economical set backs have slowed the purchase of needed parts but I'll sell a kidney to get her on the road


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## injn37 (Nov 16, 2008)

The ride is worth alot, but a body part....

What parts are you in need of? Have a lot of 'junk' that I am not going to use, might have something as long as it is not high tech. If you need something machined, 'we got the technology ' right here!

I want to get the 65 out for the summer too, but I also want to get my 37 out to see what 505 ci 's of blown Pontiac feels like! And my 29 has to have the power steering pump replaced as well as the alternator ( PS puked all over the Alt and messed it up), yup, dance card is full!
Thank g-d I have an understanding and loving wife. Really, she just always knows where I am, and I have no money to do anything else!

Let me know if you need anything.

rich:cheers


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## crustysack (Oct 5, 2008)

thems just jokes of course:lol: I really appreciate the offer of parts and machining . the main thing I need is TIME to work on the car, my car is about 15 miles away so I can't just pop out into the garage for a quick hour or so. As far as parts go I need only a couple of thing, electric radiator fan, sanden style a/c compressor,bracket for that,rear windows,back glass, couple other little things. Lucky for me I also have the loving wife but she works Sunday,and Monday night so I hang out with my son those days( hes not old enough yet to be at the car with out getting bored in about 20 minutes) Honestly I think I'm in good shape to have her on the road, I just wish it was sooner than later.:cheers


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## injn37 (Nov 16, 2008)

Know you were kiddin  , All the kids are grown up now, and believe it or not, my married daughter is the one that likes to wrench with me when she is home!I have to work on it, or my wife will want me to go shopping with her!
Funny about your statement of time, as I have an employee that I sold my 32 Pontiac ) un-restored to) and he once made a comment to me that he hoped he had the money to rod it right! I laughed at him and said that he will have plenty of money to do it right, it's the time you can't buy! He is now finding that out!

I will look thru the 'junk' to see if I have anything other than the glass.

rich


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## mikes06goat (Jan 13, 2009)

I've been researching this cause I'm at that point on my Camaro and people have been using aluminum foil backed butyl rubber flashing tape as a vastly cheaper alternative. They say it works wonderful but I have not tried it yet. It can be purchased at any local Lowes of Home Depot. Anyone have any thoughts on this?


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## crustysack (Oct 5, 2008)

that is pretty much exactly what it is, how much is the tape at lowes and how thick is it?? I saw some online for $34 for 100 ft roll x 3 inches , you would need 8 rolls for 200 sq ft for $272. and that stuff is only 17 mils thick - you would need 4 layers to get to the thickness of the fatmatt- so about $1000 for the rolls- unless you can get some thicker stuff. I did a bunch of research and bang for the buck the fatmatt stuff won, If i had the extra $1500 I would have bought DYNAMAT but I am on a budget, but still trying to build the nicest car i can.


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## geeteeohguy (Feb 2, 2008)

That's it, exactly. Building the nicest car you can. That's where the fun and the pride is. The Fattmatt will be a HUGE improvement over the 1965 stuff. No worries. It's not about throwing money at the car, it's about doing the best you can with the resources you have.


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## Rukee (Feb 8, 2007)

geeteeohguy said:


> That's it, exactly. Building the nicest car you can. That's where the fun and the pride is. The Fattmatt will be a HUGE improvement over the 1965 stuff. No worries.* It's not about throwing money at the car, it's about doing the best you can with the resources you have.*


:cheers


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## hookemdevils22 (Mar 27, 2010)

i just finished installing this stuff, and i can attest that it is a NIGHT AND DAY difference. The car drives sooooo much quieter now. I laid some of the rattle trap down, then put the-style OEM rubber deadener, then carpet. All I can say is WOW - it's like a whole new car. Weatherstripping's on the way, which will help with the wind noise. Good call crusty. btw, i maaaay be picking your brain soon with some LS-specific questions.

Pics aren't exactly the best since they were taken on my phone, but it'll give you an idea.





































and what I started with. note the carpet doesn't even stretch along the entire width of the vehicle. and that was AFTER I vacuumed


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## geeteeohguy (Feb 2, 2008)

Hookem, what brand of matting did you use? Looks great. BTW, delighted with the heater control I got from you. I was able to take it apart, and use its good parts with my cherry '67 control head and make one excellent unit. I'll be installing it when I pull my dash to replace the clock, radio speaker, gauge lenses, and top switch. Thanks again.
Jeff


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## xconcepts (Jan 4, 2009)

Another great cheaper brand to Fatmatt is SecondSkin. They have a huge amount of products that work great. I plan to get a couple gallons of their spray on and rattlepad. Used it on my previous car for audio.


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## hookemdevils22 (Mar 27, 2010)

geeteeoh... i used rattle trap by fat mat based on crusty's recommendation. i got it for $160 shipped via ebay. and i'm glad someone could use those parts. i hope the steering wheel was in decent enough shape for you to use? at the very least it would make a good wall decoration (which is what i was going to do if i didn't sell it, right next to the one from my nova).

x... i've heard second skin is excellent as well. the major knock i've read against fatmat is its smell. i got lucky though - stuff didn't smell at all.


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## Fred007 (Jul 23, 2008)

Has anyone used the Second Skin Damplifier Pro yet? I need to do the interior, doors, trunk, etc. and was thinking this might be a good choice. Also, how much do you need for an interior?


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## DukeB-120th (Oct 19, 2009)

This sound killing stuff looks fun to install, I want to do some! Do you guys find it enjoyable?

Also, when you put it down on the floorboards and put the carpet on top of it, does it give it a spongy feel, or does the floor still feel solid?


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## ride400 (Jun 16, 2009)

I used a product called Hushmat form summet racing. It was a bit cheaper than Dynomat with the same reviews. I have not gotten the chance to drive it yet with the insulation installed but i expect a big difference in temperature and sound in the car. I over laid with new molded carpet form ames with the factory jute glued to the bottom. There are a lot of options out there. good luck


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## Wob (Dec 2, 2010)

*How much is too much?*

Hey guys, new to the forum.

I am in the process of restoring a 1965 Tempest Custom and decided Dynamat the car as well. The problem I ran into though is Dynamat is HEAVY!!! I come from a racing background, so finding a compromise between effectiveness and weight was key for me. I read a figure of Dynamat weighing 1lb per sq ft. That is ludicrous! You could easily add 200+lbs to your car. Ha! Not to mention the cost. 

Started reading around and discovered that Dynamat is really designed to be used on in small pieces only in the middle of each treated panel to prevent the panel from vibrating. Ideally the next layer should be a high quality closed cell foam (to serve as initial acoustic barrier) followed by a vinyl rubber mat (as the main acoustic barrier). From what I have read now that is the most effective way to insulate sound from coming in, the most cost effective and cuts the weight in half. 

Now clearly I am not a scientist when it comes to this, otherwise I would not have been researching, but the logic make sense to me. Likewise, I seen so many OEM applications that mimic that type of setup (perhaps replacing foam for jute). Not trying to preach, but instead explaining the route I am going to try and will be happy to deliver my notes after. I will use the small squares of Dynamat on the roof with OPGI roof insulation to keep weight off the high end of gravity and also to eliminate some of the chance of the insulation falling on the headliner over time. 

Most all else will be as described above. 

-Rob


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## crustysack (Oct 5, 2008)

I installed about 200 sq ft of the rattle trap/fat mat and it weighs about 100 lbs- I am able to justify that by removing my old motor and installing an LS1, and building a bunch of carbon parts for the car- really though if you are strictly building a car to go fast tear everything out, I am building a car I can drive and be comfortable in- power seats, in dash dvd, 1000 watt stereo, ac and cup holders!!!


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## Orion88 (Apr 24, 2012)

I am new to the forum as well and will be replacing my carpet, floor insulation, door sills, headliner, dash pad, and gauge cluster in my 1970 GTO, along with installing a good sound system (RetroSounds head unit, 6x8s in the package tray, a 10" sub and an amp in the trunk, and kicker speakers) this summer. I also plan on laying down rattle trap on the floor, roof, and trunk and carpeting the trunk. Any recommendations on how much square footage I will need and specific areas to apply? I am also considering using the closed cell foam mentioned earlier in this forum. Anyone have any experience with that and have any brands they would recommend? Doing this on a budget as I am a broke college student.


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## Instg8ter (Sep 28, 2010)

If your on a budget go to HD and get the self stick foam foil faced duct insulation will sound deaden and heat barrier for 1/4 price of the car specific stuff, and it does not weigh much. You can use it anywhere you will be covering with carpet also on roof under headliner, inner door panels if you like, all will help reduce road noise.


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## Orion88 (Apr 24, 2012)

Instg8ter said:


> If your on a budget go to HD and get the self stick foam foil faced duct insulation will sound deaden and heat barrier for 1/4 price of the car specific stuff, and it does not weigh much. You can use it anywhere you will be covering with carpet also on roof under headliner, inner door panels if you like, all will help reduce road noise.


Very interesting... however I don't want to sacrifice quality for price... will they still be comparable to fatmat or dynamatt? I'm sure it won't be quite as good, but if it's close enough it may be worth saving money over, however I don't want to use the wrong tool for the job. Otherwise it's a waste of time and money.


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## leeklm (Mar 11, 2012)

I recently used fattmat when I had most of the interior stipped out of the car. I applied it to the vertical surfaces, inside door panels, front of rear wheel wells, firewall down to floor and tunnel. I did not like the idea of using an adhesive mat on the floor, or any area that could trap moisture. Figured if I had a leak for example, I can at least pull the carpet to dry. Might be hard to dry out an interior covered in rubber adhesive...


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## xconcepts (Jan 4, 2009)

I've been using a new product on my Buick Enclave and actually layed a bunch down on the floor of the goat to help with heat. What a difference. I thought I had better pics but here is some laid down near the shifter. Its called audiotechnix. For 25sq ft its about $60 shipped.


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