# First time I've posted about my restore....



## goatsnvairs (Sep 12, 2014)

.....and I'm well into it. Here are some pics of my 1967 GTO restore. It started life as a '67 base and I didn't get an original motor or rear end. I'm not doing a concours resto, just a "nice" frame off. I have a '73 455, it is a 4 speed car, and thankfully spent most of it's life in California. Just this weekend I lifted the body off the frame so I can clean it up underneath and do a total redo of the chassis. The finished product will be a 1967 GTO with a 455, aluminum heads, 17" aluminum rallye's, maybe vintage air, in the original Turqoise/Turqoise color scheme.


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## Colorado67GTO (Sep 11, 2014)

Looks like a great project. The body looks like it is in great shape. We are at about the same point in our restores. Mine is also a turquoise 67, but black inside. I have quite a bit of rust repair to do. 

Mine is all matching numbers, so I will (hopefully) be sticking to the 400/TH400. 

I look forward to watching your progress.


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## goatsnvairs (Sep 12, 2014)

Colorado67GTO said:


> Looks like a great project. The body looks like it is in great shape. We are at about the same point in our restores. Mine is also a turquoise 67, but black inside. I have quite a bit of rust repair to do.
> 
> Mine is all matching numbers, so I will (hopefully) be sticking to the 400/TH400.
> 
> I look forward to watching your progress.


My floors are real nice. What is showing in the pic is after I wire wheeled and painted them. The outside of the body needs some wheel well and back window work. Trunk is solid. Since my interior is turquoise I considered changing the outside to silver because I thought turquoise/turquoise was odd. Now I've decided it's a pretty cool interior color and I'm going to go with it. Mainly I just hate trying to spell turquoise.......

Are there any pics of your restore on the forum?


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## Colorado67GTO (Sep 11, 2014)

Here is my member introduction with a picture of how it looked when I bought it. It also tells a little more about the car. 

http://www.gtoforum.com/f36/another-new-user-colorado-74986/

Here is my restore story thread

http://www.gtoforum.com/f83/dans-colo-restore-story-76209/


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## goatsnvairs (Sep 12, 2014)

Colorado67GTO said:


> Here is my member introduction with a picture of how it looked when I bought it. It also tells a little more about the car.
> 
> http://www.gtoforum.com/f36/another-new-user-colorado-74986/
> 
> ...


Nice, air car! Looks like you're a little further along than me but close. My goal is to have the main body back on the refurbed chassis by April? Then I'll start on upgrading to front discs and get started on rebuilding the motor. Good Luck, keep them pics coming! I'll let you stay slightly ahead so I can take advantage of your discoveries.


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## goatsnvairs (Sep 12, 2014)

*Cleaned underbody*

The worst job of all is done. I wire wheeled the entire underbody of my '67. Floors are in unreal condition. Solid. Now final clean, prep, and paint. No more stuff falling in my face.


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## Matthew (Feb 11, 2011)

Nice work. So are you doing an epoxy primer? Matt


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## goatsnvairs (Sep 12, 2014)

Matthew said:


> Nice work. So are you doing an epoxy primer? Matt


Nope, just cleaning with alcohol and painting with a black truck bed liner paint. Used it previously, has a nice texture. The car will never see any weather. Not a concours, just a very nice driver.


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## chuckha62 (Apr 5, 2010)

Welcome!

Interesting... It looks like it started down the path to being painted Montreaux Blue by looking at the complete coverage of the floors. Clearly, the inside of the panel are Turquoise though. Gotta like the rust free cars! I have one and I'm thankful for that every time I look at it.

I take it by your user name you're into Corvairs. Whatcha got? I grew up with them and have owned a couple myself. I have a soft spot for them!

Chuck


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## goatsnvairs (Sep 12, 2014)

chuckha62 said:


> Welcome!
> 
> Interesting... It looks like it started down the path to being painted Montreaux Blue by looking at the complete coverage of the floors. Clearly, the inside of the panel are Turquoise though. Gotta like the rust free cars! I have one and I'm thankful for that every time I look at it.
> 
> ...


The car is actually Turquoise/Turquois. I bought interior paint for the floors and it's way off. For the stuff that actually shows I'm going to have to get more serious. I found something that matches a little better.

When I was 16 I had a 1963 turbochgarged Corvair Spyder and a 1964 GTO. That was 40 years ago. Last summer I finished my '65 140 Corsa resto (pictures attached), and now I'm doing this GTO. And they say you can't go back!


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## goatsnvairs (Sep 12, 2014)

Under floors coated. Took everything off the frame and flipped it, sanding it down and rust prevention coating it. Grunt work. I wanna work on a motor or something.......


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## chuckha62 (Apr 5, 2010)

Looking good and as much as it's not glamorous, it needs to be done...

I too had a '63 Spyder. I know where it is and am trying to retreive it. Fortunately it is garaged and has not deteriorated since i owned it.


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## ALKYGTO (Mar 29, 2010)

goatsnvairs said:


> The car is actually Turquoise/Turquois. I bought interior paint for the floors and it's way off. For the stuff that actually shows I'm going to have to get more serious. I found something that matches a little better.
> 
> When I was 16 I had a 1963 turbochgarged Corvair Spyder and a 1964 GTO. That was 40 years ago. Last summer I finished my '65 140 Corsa resto (pictures attached), and now I'm doing this GTO. And they say you can't go back!


Love the Corvair! Sad, that was one of GMs "outside the box" cars that should have made it. The early ones reputation ruined it for the car even once they got it right.

Seems to me that is the GM curse....release a car with shortcomings that give it a bad (deservedly) rap and by the time they "refine" it they cut it. Fiero is another case in point.

Nice Corvair OP :cheers. A few years ago a local car consignment dealer had the "last" 69 Corvair convertible made with less than 1000 miles on the OD. Very cool but too nice a car to let sit. I've thought about a Corvair for my daughter as they are still reasonable to buy and easy to work on.


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## goatsnvairs (Sep 12, 2014)

ALKYGTO said:


> Love the Corvair! Sad, that was one of GMs "outside the box" cars that should have made it. The early ones reputation ruined it for the car even once they got it right.
> 
> Seems to me that is the GM curse....release a car with shortcomings that give it a bad (deservedly) rap and by the time they "refine" it they cut it. Fiero is another case in point.
> 
> Nice Corvair OP :cheers. A few years ago a local car consignment dealer had the "last" 69 Corvair convertible made with less than 1000 miles on the OD. Very cool but too nice a car to let sit. I've thought about a Corvair for my daughter as they are still reasonable to buy and easy to work on.


I actually thought of one for my daughter too. If you do, get an early coupe ('64 is best) with a powerglide. They rust less, and all you have to do is do the O-rings so the heat works without smoking you out and you're good to go!


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## goatsnvairs (Sep 12, 2014)

chuckha62 said:


> Looking good and as much as it's not glamorous, it needs to be done...
> 
> I too had a '63 Spyder. I know where it is and am trying to retreive it. Fortunately it is garaged and has not deteriorated since i owned it.


That car taught me a lot about cars. Good luck on getting it, if you do, send me a pic. I love the Spyder dashes, I think when I was 16 that was the main reason I bought it.....

As far as the grunt work, yeah, has to be done. The thing that bothers me most is what it's doing to my garage. I figure I have maybe 3 more weekends, then after that I'll get some decent weather and can power wash out the facilities. Hard for me to work in a nasty disorganized garage.


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## geeteeohguy (Feb 2, 2008)

In 1965/66, my neighbor across the street bought a new bright red Corvair Monza convertible. I remember riding in it as a 5 year old kid. It had a chrome shifter with a big white ball and the black shift pattern on the top of it. A four speed. I was hooked. After that, every model car I built had a 'Hurst' shifter made out of one of mom's stolen stick pins with a little white ball on top. That corvair was a neat car, and very fast and fun to ride around in!


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## goatsnvairs (Sep 12, 2014)

*Update, Rear End Assembly Back In*

Finally turned my wrench from loosen to tighten. Have my rebuilt rear end back in. Replaced all bushings, went from a 2:73 open to a 3:23 Yukon posi, added boxed lower CA's and added a 7/8" sway bar, took off the air shocks and replaced with KYB gas adjusts. 

On to the front end! Target to have body back on frame by end of April....


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## ALKYGTO (Mar 29, 2010)

Looks good! :thumbsup:

Ah yes, I remember the day I too flipped from loosen to tighten, wait until the day you get to wax her! :Scottwax1:

Congratulations on hitting a milestone, I'd much rather see progress than another thread on "giving up" on a frame off restoration. :cryin:


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## goatsnvairs (Sep 12, 2014)

Thanks for the thumbs up! Haha, a couple years away from waxing!

My immediate goal is front suspension, drop the body back to frame, and get it to rolling chassis stage so I can CLEAN MY GARAGE! The business of grinding the underside, frame, etc has left about a 1/4" of dust on everything and my painted floor is a mess.


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## chuckha62 (Apr 5, 2010)

That is indeed, momentous! There's something about getting your frame back and Painted/powdercoated... You not only go from loosen to tighten, but you also get to stay clean(er). 

Congrats!


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## goatsnvairs (Sep 12, 2014)

It's officially a rolling chassis. Got the front suspension done except front sway bar (waiting on some poly bushings). Left the front brake hardware off so I can add a disc conversion later. Next is front to back fuel and brake lines, then I can drop the body back on, push it out and clean my garage and get to the clean stuff. :bannana:


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## goatsnvairs (Sep 12, 2014)

Progress this weekend. Took the 455 block and crank to the machine shop. Both are standard which is nice. Going to get them cleaned up and fluxed and then decide bore. My wife, son and I celebrated Mothers Day on Saturday, and then the wife came out and helped me lower the body of the car back onto the frame. Next I'm going to take a look inside the gas tank and see if it the sender and tank are okay. Anybody know of anything I can swish around in it to keep it from rusting before I mount it? It may be another year before I actually fill it up.....


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## 68GTO4004Spd (Jun 19, 2008)

eastwood and pro15 make gas tank sealer kits, but I have never used them.


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## SpeedSLC (May 24, 2015)

I appreciate the example of true hard work and dedication, this gives me a good template on what I need to do to restore my 71 GTO. How long have you been in to the restoration?


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## goatsnvairs (Sep 12, 2014)

SpeedSLC said:


> I appreciate the example of true hard work and dedication, this gives me a good template on what I need to do to restore my 71 GTO. How long have you been in to the restoration?


Hey SLC. I guess I started on it for real last November, so been at it 7 months now. Disassembly and surface rust cleanup sucked, but that's past me now. Everything is fairly clean to work on. Next step is to get my motor back, that may take awhile because the machine shop is pretty busy. I'll keep posting progress!

Good luck on your '71, nice year.


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## SpeedSLC (May 24, 2015)

*very cool*

I think those frame off restorations look so amazing. The amount of work it takes seems like it would take forever but the outcome I worth it. I don't think I will take that route with mine though


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## goatsnvairs (Sep 12, 2014)

*Got my motor back*

Got the 455 back from the machine shop. .030 over, crank turned out to be standard, had it polished. In the interim I rebuilt the steering column. The lower bearing was shot. I learned steering columns are complicated! Finally got it back together, should be a huge improvement.


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## goatsnvairs (Sep 12, 2014)

Well, lots of progress. First thing I had to do was take advantage of the weather and power wash the garage and repaint the floor to improve my working conditions. Much more enjoyable to be in the garage now. On the interior side I took the dash apart. Will be looking for a set of rallye gauges, but the dash facia itself came out pretty good. Have the short block back together. decided to try and use the full windage tray off the 400 on the 455. A little worried about clearance but it seems I have it all worked out. Hope to have the block and tranny back in in a couple weeks....


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## PontiacJim (Dec 29, 2012)

goatsnvairs said:


> Well, lots of progress. First thing I had to do was take advantage of the weather and power wash the garage and repaint the floor to improve my working conditions. Much more enjoyable to be in the garage now. On the interior side I took the dash apart. Will be looking for a set of rallye gauges, but the dash facia itself came out pretty good. Have the short block back together. decided to try and use the full windage tray off the 400 on the 455. A little worried about clearance but it seems I have it all worked out. Hope to have the block and tranny back in in a couple weeks....



Looks good. Couple of questions. I don't see the alignment pins in the block for the heads. They usually get pulled to deck/clean the block surface, don't forget 'em.

Oil plugs in the front oil galley or did you have the holes tapped and pipe plugs installed? - I can't tell from the pics. The pipe plugs are better than the plugs, but if plugs, make sure they are staked well so they don't have any chance of coming loose. I went with pipe plugs on my 455. The trick is to make sure they are not inserted too deep to block the oil passage and cut off/restrict oil flow.:thumbsup:

Also, hate to be a butt, make sure you remove all paint off those surfaces on the front of your block where gaskets will be fitted. Paint is too slick and gaskets can "slip" out - ask me how I know. Just sayin'.


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## goatsnvairs (Sep 12, 2014)

I didn't even notice the missing head alignment pins. I would have when I went to put the heads on! I hope I can buy them from Ames or something.

The oil plugs in the front are plugged and staked well.

On the paint, yeah, I didn't have a clean timing cover to put on when I painted the block so I ball parked it, will come of with some acetone on a rag.


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## PontiacJim (Dec 29, 2012)

goatsnvairs said:


> I didn't even notice the missing head alignment pins. I would have when I went to put the heads on! I hope I can buy them from Ames or something.
> 
> The oil plugs in the front are plugged and staked well.
> 
> On the paint, yeah, I didn't have a clean timing cover to put on when I painted the block so I ball parked it, will come of with some acetone on a rag.




:thumbsup:


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## BlueSky1Guy (Jul 9, 2015)

*Way to go.*

This is a great story. You've been diligent about showing progress. It's an inspiration. Thanks


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## goatsnvairs (Sep 12, 2014)

BlueSky1Guy said:


> This is a great story. You've been diligent about showing progress. It's an inspiration. Thanks


Thanks! getting to the fun stuff now!


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## goatsnvairs (Sep 12, 2014)

*Progressing*

...and on we go. Installed my favorite all purpose Pontiac camshaft, the 068 yesterday. Also added the oil filter adapter, motor mounts, and even the HO style wire guide to route the starter wire using HO exhaust manifolds. I used the '73 timing cover because it was in better shape than the '67 I had. I then realized it has the 11 hole water pump setup. That's fine, but I wanted to use my '67 pulleys and I think an 11 hole water pump with that 4" spacing is a half year ('69?) only part. If I can't find one I'll have to use the '73 balancer and pulleys which I guess would be fine. I'll have to mock them up tonite and see what way to go.

Next - I need to lay out the cash for the Edelbrock 87cc aluminum heads. Ouch....


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## Pinion head (Jan 3, 2015)

goatsnvairs said:


> ...I used the '73 timing cover because it was in better shape than the '67 I had. I then realized it has the 11 hole water pump setup. That's fine, but I wanted to use my '67 pulleys and I think an 11 hole water pump with that 4" spacing is a half year ('69?) only part. If I can't find one I'll have to use the '73 balancer and pulleys which I guess would be fine. I'll have to mock them up tonite and see what way to go.
> 
> Next - I need to lay out the cash for the Edelbrock 87cc aluminum heads. Ouch....


If the goal is to run the 11 bolt timing cover with the current '67 PS pump and alum pivot bracket/etc, you will need the correct "late '69" waterpump pulley, the '68+ damper and the correct matching '68-70 crank pulley. Will also need a front '69 style alt strap, as the '67-68 style is made for the geometry of the 11 bolt timing cover.

Am very aquainted with such swaps as have been putting Pontiac bracket/ pulley PS changeovers together for the last two decades, normally put together and sell at least one such changeover each month. From the early '60's on, Pontiac had a progression of bracket series and different stagger (design) of pulleys, one can't mix the '71 up style brackets and pulleys with earlier style pulleys or mix the 8 bolt style timing cover with '71 and later brackets and pulleys, just won't work


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## goatsnvairs (Sep 12, 2014)

Pinion head said:


> If the goal is to run the 11 bolt timing cover with the current '67 PS pump and alum pivot bracket/etc, you will need the correct "late '69" waterpump pulley, the '68+ damper and the correct matching '68-70 crank pulley. Will also need a front '69 style alt strap, as the '67-68 style is made for the geometry of the 11 bolt timing cover.
> 
> Am very aquainted with such swaps as have been putting Pontiac bracket/ pulley PS changeovers together for the last two decades, normally put together and sell at least one such changeover each month. From the early '60's on, Pontiac had a progression of bracket series and different stagger (design) of pulleys, one can't mix the '71 up style brackets and pulleys with earlier style pulleys or mix the 8 bolt style timing cover with '71 and later brackets and pulleys, just won't work


Wow, thanks for the information. Wait, so if I can find the short 11 bolt water pump, can I use all my '67 pulleys, but need different alternator straps? I would think if the 8 hole and short 11 hole are the same height base to top of hub all of the pulleys would line up. Maybe they aren't the same height?

...........I think I'll take another look at that '67 timing cover.....


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## Pinion head (Jan 3, 2015)

the short '69 waterpump, AKA the "351" with it's matching pulley will match up with the correct '68-70 crank pulley. It won't match up with '67 damper/crank pulley, one reason being the '67 damper can't be used on the 11bolt timing cover.

Performing a '69 concours restoration, or something close to it, or maintaing an extremely original '69, there is nothing wrong with using the correct "351" casting pump and matching wp pulley, as all the pieces will mate up and be '69. Have two rebuilt "351" casting pumps going out Weds, can relay from chasing them down as nice cores, the original casting dated "351" pumps typically are more expensive and end up being mainly a high end restoration Item. That stated, the only other time I will go with the short '69 style 11 bolt waterpump is when providing parts for a nice driver or a street/strip type '67 or 68 V8 Firebird that customer wants converted over to 11 bolt waterpump. The stock fan needs all the clearance it can with a stock dimension radiator and fan shroud in the early Firebird. The more common and readily available "tall" 11 bolt waterpump doesn't work well in that application.


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## goatsnvairs (Sep 12, 2014)

Pinion head said:


> the short '69 waterpump, AKA the "351" with it's matching pulley will match up with the correct '68-70 crank pulley. It won't match up with '67 damper/crank pulley, one reason being the '67 damper can't be used on the 11bolt timing cover.....


I guess that's the key, "the '67 damper can't be used on the 11 bolt timing cover".

I need to get all my dampers and pulleys out. The problem I have is the car did not have the original 400 engine, and come to think of it, it did not have the proper alternator bracket. Then I got the 455 out of a '73 Grand Prix. Would like to use the '67 stuff, so will probably have to swap out the timing cover.

The main reason I originally went with the newer cover was the timing marks, they go all they way to 12 degrees either way, which is good for the 068 cam because I sets at 9 BTDC. As I recall, the early one only goes to 6 degrees. No big deal, but I failed to realize the different pump heights, etc.

A small delay, 2 steps forward, 1 step back....


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## Pinion head (Jan 3, 2015)

goatsnvairs said:


> I guess that's the key, "the '67 damper can't be used on the 11 bolt timing cover".


 Even if the '67 damper and pulleys could work with the 11 bolt timing cover, the '67-68 wp pulley wouldnt line up using the short style 11 bolt waterpump.



> I need to get all my dampers and pulleys out. The problem I have is the car did not have the original 400 engine, and come to think of it, it did not have the proper alternator bracket. Then I got the 455 out of a '73 Grand Prix. Would like to use the '67 stuff, so will probably have to swap out the timing cover....


 The later timing cover will work out fine with your '67's PS pump, alum pivot block setup, the alt straps are very affordable, I try and keep nice used ones in stock and seem to never run out of the rear strap. Pulleys... I was on a mission to continually load up on the correct non AC ones for many years, as it was very hard to find them here in the south. So much so, I used to blow off pulling some of the AC style pulleys, ESP the "928" wp pulleys.



> The main reason I originally went with the newer cover was the timing marks, they go all they way to 12 degrees either way, which is good for the 068 cam because I sets at 9 BTDC. As I recall, the early one only goes to 6 degrees.
> A small delay, 2 steps forward, 1 step back....


. 
Still having trouble with it, free and drop me a PM, usually have inquiries and ship out correct pulleys every other week.


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## goatsnvairs (Sep 12, 2014)

Pinion head said:


> Still having trouble with it, free and drop me a PM, usually have inquiries and ship out correct pulleys every other week.


Did a mock up tonite. Pic 1 is my exploded bottom pulley. Stamping is 9786713. Looks 67. Second pic is the bottom pulley all together. Third pic is the top pulley. Don't see a number but it's 2" deep. 4th pic is bottom and top pulley mounted with 11 hole 4.5" pump. '67 bottom pulley works on the new housing. Fan pulley lines up with outer pulley on bottom. 5th pick is alternator weakly mocked up. It would not line up, looks like it lines up more with the inner pulley on bottom.

My personal summary is to put the 8 hole housing on and the 8 hole pump and I think it would all work. I will not have power steering, so the alternator should run off the inner lower pulley, right? Then I can run vintage air off of the outer lower pulley....

Thanks a TON for help with this!


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## goatsnvairs (Sep 12, 2014)

*Christmas in August*

Nice package came today. A pair of Edelbrock 87CC heads for my 455. Not quite ready to put them on, but had to mock them up just to take a look.

So shiny. Been having to spend time on the Corvair and got a little sidetracked, need to get back to GTO time. I'm thinking of putting the shortblock and tranny back in the car and building it up from there since the whole front clip is off.......


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## Rukee (Feb 8, 2007)

Those heads are Purdy.


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## Old Goat 67 (Feb 2, 2009)

Nice work, except for that Fram oil filter!

Throw that in the trash and put a Wix on there.!


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## goatsnvairs (Sep 12, 2014)

*It's Back In*

Got the motor back in this weekend, and then the driveshaft with new u-joints. Went pretty smooth for a one man operation. Need to get some R.A.R. round port HO manifolds next month. Have little stuff to work on until then...


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## goatsnvairs (Sep 12, 2014)

*Suggestions?????*

Crap. Ordered my round port exhaust manifolds from Ram Air Resto. Supposed to fit '66-'67, if you have a '64-'65 it says you may need to move the motor back an inch....well, after install I would say you need to move the motor back an inch for a '66-'67 too. On the drivers side, once installed the manifold interferes with the frame. This puts the driveline slightly out of line, but it is amplified at the trans tailshaft, it is off by over an inch.

Since the car is a 4 speed, if I move the motor back an inch, my clutch Zbar will be out of line, meaning I'd need to weld a new zbar holder to the frame.

Open to ideas............:nonod:


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## PontiacJim (Dec 29, 2012)

The interference doesn't look all to bad in the photo if you have the engine in place. What I would do is #1) trim the upper control arm bolt off a bit, but it looks OK. #2) grind the upper control arm to make the clearance you need - doesn't look like much needed. #3) a possible upgrade to aftermarket tubular upper/lower control arms -if you are not too worried about original, but then again, you have the 455 w/Eddy heads, so it doesn't appear you gotta go original.

Moving the engine back will mean messing with your clutch shaft and most likely all the geometry of your pedal linkage rod and pushrod to clutch fork. You would also need to shorten your driveshaft IF it gets a little close to the back of that tailshaft housing that it goes into. Plus you would have to do some modifying of the trans mount/crossmember and move it back a like amount. The engine moved back will also move your fan back from the radiator if you use a bladed fan which could affect cooling and if you have a fan shroud, the fan may now be too far back to take advantage of it. So *my personal opinion* is that I would not move it back the 1" and then run into more problems and headaches to remedy the 1" setback.


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## goatsnvairs (Sep 12, 2014)

PontiacJim said:


> ....so *my personal opinion* is that I would not move it back the 1" and then run into more problems and headaches to remedy the 1" setback.


Yes, I want to stay away from that. My picture is poor. There is no interference with the control arm, it is strictly the frame itself. It is interesting, RAR only mentions this interference for '64-'65, not '66-'67. If I go to Butler performance they mention '66-'67 may need to "pound in the frame about a 1/2" to get them to fit, and I think they are just reselling the RAR manifolds.

So I guess the next question is how hard is it to pound in the frame of a '67 GTO? Requires significant heat and pounding, or will a hand sledge do it? Sent an inquiry to RAR but haven't heard anything yet......


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## Pinion head (Jan 3, 2015)

am thinking you could gain some clearance ex manifold to frame clearance with a pair of the steel frame stand spacers that fit between the frame crossmember and the A body frame stands. A fellow on PY had some made out of 1/4" plate steel, believe with a waterjet . He was offering for cars suffering frame cradle sag. I've used c,ore crudlymade home built spacers made of thinner plate steel. The heavier the engine combined with high miles both contribute to frame cradle sag, it's very common.

It would also prove helpful to examine an original '67 Pontiac A body frame. Do know for '67, a revision was made in the stamping to allow for extra clearance for the '67 GTO HO-RA manifolds. The RARE round port manifolds were patterned off the '73-74 SD exhaust manifolds and are not the exact same shape in the lower areas as the '67 GTO RA manifolds. RARE is very acquainted with this, as their reproduction D port manifolds are patterned off the '67 GTO RA manifolds. 

Way back in the '80's it was an occasional happening to run across a '65 or '66 GTO that the owner had ground notches into the frame for clearance to mount the OEM '67 RA manifolds. Having both RA D port manifolds along with round port manifolds, I just don't see the round ports fitting in a '65 or 66 frame without a minimum of the 1/4" spacers and some grinding.


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## goatsnvairs (Sep 12, 2014)

Pinion head said:


> am thinking you could gain some clearance ex manifold to frame clearance with a pair of the steel frame stand spacers that fit between the frame crossmember and the A body frame stands. A fellow on PY had some made out of 1/4" plate steel, believe with a waterjet . He was offering for cars suffering frame cradle sag. I've used c,ore crudlymade home built spacers made of thinner plate steel. The heavier the engine combined with high miles both contribute to frame cradle sag, it's very common.
> 
> It would also prove helpful to examine an original '67 Pontiac A body frame. Do know for '67, a revision was made in the stamping to allow for extra clearance for the '67 GTO HO-RA manifolds. The RARE round port manifolds were patterned off the '73-74 SD exhaust manifolds and are not the exact same shape in the lower areas as the '67 GTO RA manifolds. RARE is very acquainted with this, as their reproduction D port manifolds are patterned off the '67 GTO RA manifolds.
> 
> Way back in the '80's it was an occasional happening to run across a '65 or '66 GTO that the owner had ground notches into the frame for clearance to mount the OEM '67 RA manifolds. Having both RA D port manifolds along with round port manifolds, I just don't see the round ports fitting in a '65 or 66 frame without a minimum of the 1/4" spacers and some grinding.


I'm having problems visualizing the first part of your post regarding spacers and would like to understand better. Also like the idea of a notch. What if I (somebody) cut a notch, and then used that same piece pushed back into the frame void and re welded it to keep the strength?


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## PontiacJim (Dec 29, 2012)

goatsnvairs said:


> I'm having problems visualizing the first part of your post regarding spacers and would like to understand better. Also like the idea of a notch. What if I (somebody) cut a notch, and then used that same piece pushed back into the frame void and re welded it to keep the strength?



I think PH is talking about adding a 1/4" shim under the engine frame mount. There are 3 bolts that hold it on to the frame and then you bolt your engine (rubber mount) to this. 

Option #1

You would use your steel frame mount as a pattern and place it on a 1/4" piece of steel/aluminum and trace the outside shape and then mark your 3 bolt holes. Then trim the plate down and drill your holes. This would then be placed under the engine frame mount to raise each side 1/4". The only snag I see is that the frame crossmember is at an angle and adding 1/4" will move the engine frame mount in 1/4" and may not line up with the engine's rubber motor mount. 

Here is what I would do to try this procedure. Get the frame level from side-to-side (not front bumper to rear) so it can be used as a reference point.
You might want to slot the crossmember holes slightly (1/4" or slightly more) so you can slide the steel frame mount/shim upward/outward, thus making the spread between the mounts wider so it will bolt up to the rubber engine mount without forcing the long motor mount bolts in, or pre-tensioning the engine mounts which could lead to premature failure. 

I would then bolt my frame mounts & shim back into the crossmember, *BUT*, leave the bolts loose at this time. Then bolt the engine mounts (rubber) on the block, drop the block in place, and insert your long engine mount bolt through the engine mounts to the frame mounts. Then I would place a large level on top of the block spanning engine mount to engine mount (not front to back) to get the block level (remember, your frame should be level and you are now making your block level to the frame). Slide the block around as needed to make it level and then tighten down the 3 frame mount bolts. If you have any binding of the 3 frame bolts, then you did not slot the hole enough and I would go back and slot it some more so the bolt tightens down freely and straight.

Option #2

I would do as you already stated about marking the frame where it is hitting, cut the area out, and weld in a patch making sure you allowed for enough clearance for engine rotation under torque/throttle as needed.

I don't know what skills you have or tools available, but Option #1 doesn't require the cutting/welding of your frame. It may or may not work. 1/4" might be enough or you may need more. You may want to simply unbolt the frame mounts, bolt them back onto the engine mounts, place a plain flat 1/4" plate under each frame mount and lower it back into place on top of the 1/4" plate just to see if it will do what you need before shaping and drilling an actual shim to do the job.

:thumbsup:


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## goatsnvairs (Sep 12, 2014)

*Much Better*

Thanks Jim, I think I got it.

Went out and bought a $60 4.5" Milwaukee grinder. Marked the areas (there were 2), ground them down a tad and then beat them a bit with a hand sledge.

It took a few tries up and down while I had the engine hoisted above me during the grinding, but I finally got it even allowing for engine lift under throttle.

Hard to see in the pics maybe, but seems like enough room. Now I can move forward!


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## goatsnvairs (Sep 12, 2014)

*Been awhile*

Been working on stuff off the car, finally did some more assembly. Tightened up my factory distributor and added a Pertronix module, had to add a shim washer under the drive gear. Then, considering my block / heads combo I thought I should get one of those pushrod length checkers, ended up needing 9.3" and got them put in. Also had JBP fab me some of their anodized valve covers. This weekend I put them all on/in. I think it looks good, clean, and uncluttered. Next I will order a repro factory aluminum intake.

After that I have to consider carb options. I have the original '67 quadrajet, but it needs a rebuild. By the time I have that done I may just be able to throw another $50 at it and get a new 800cfm one from Summit.....

Anyway, a little bit more on the engine and I should be able to fire it up.


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## Goat Roper (Oct 28, 2014)

goatsnvairs said:


> Been working on stuff off the car, finally did some more assembly. Tightened up my factory distributor and added a Pertronix module, had to add a shim washer under the drive gear. Then, considering my block / heads combo I thought I should get one of those pushrod length checkers, ended up needing 9.3" and got them put in. Also had JBP fab me some of their anodized valve covers. This weekend I put them all on/in. I think it looks good, clean, and uncluttered. Next I will order a repro factory aluminum intake.
> 
> After that I have to consider carb options. I have the original '67 quadrajet, but it needs a rebuild. By the time I have that done I may just be able to throw another $50 at it and get a new 800cfm one from Summit.....
> 
> Anyway, a little bit more on the engine and I should be able to fire it up.


I just got my engine back from CVMS and somewhere along the way the carb was broken.
I am looking for a 67 QJet to replace it so if you are interested in selling it PM me and I will give you 500 bucks for it.


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## goatsnvairs (Sep 12, 2014)

*Progress!*

Got a lot done over this holiday weekend. Got my 4 speed lube in (GL4) and shifter hooked up. Received my dash harness from Amer autowire and got that started. Biggest thing was finally getting my intake on and buttoned up. Made some rails the same length as the fenders and mounted my core support. Rigged up an oil pressure gauge, while I was cranking it to time it it got 40 lbs pressure. I put an old junk Qjet to mock up the fuel line. I just need a carb and radiator and ready to fire it up! Will order a Q jet from SMI next week.


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## PontiacJim (Dec 29, 2012)

Looking good. Clearance issues look cured with a little grinding and keeps the engine in its factory position.

I like the valve covers except......... I am an emblem/decal person when it comes to a little bling to brighten things up. If it were me, I would add a chrome emblem to the front top portion of the valve covers, ie "400", "Pontiac" script, "Pontiac Arrowhead", "GTO", etc.. The OPGI catalog has a pretty good offering and if you need to know what size the emblem is, you can email them and they will let you know - did this for my project.


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## PontiacJim (Dec 29, 2012)

BTW, manual steering box?


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## goatsnvairs (Sep 12, 2014)

PontiacJim said:


> BTW, manual steering box?


I agree on the valve cover dress up. I have some 455 HO decals I may put on, but I'm going to wait until it's all done because I'm putting a ram air pan on and may use the 455 HO decal on the air cleaner. Don't want to go overboard.

Yeah, manual steering. I prefer it. Don't like the way GM power steering feels going down the road, overkill. I will have the full size steering wheel on there. Had a '66 for 20 years with manual steering was no problem.


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## goatsnvairs (Sep 12, 2014)

Manual disc brakes too!


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## PontiacJim (Dec 29, 2012)

goatsnvairs said:


> I agree on the valve cover dress up. I have some 455 HO decals I may put on, but I'm going to wait until it's all done because I'm putting a ram air pan on and may use the 455 HO decal on the air cleaner. Don't want to go overboard.
> 
> Yeah, manual steering. I prefer it. Don't like the way GM power steering feels going down the road, overkill. I will have the full size steering wheel on there. Had a '66 for 20 years with manual steering was no problem.



OK, the RA pan may cover a portion of the covers and minimize them a bit. I like the decal idea if it is fitting.

You just don't see a manual box too often anymore. Many of the old cars I owned had manual - no problem until you had to parallel park the car. Began my trucking career with a cabover Kenworth that had manual steering. Broke out into a sweat many times trying to maneuver the rig in tight places. Fine when tires are rolling, not so fine turning the wheel stopped.

I don't think I had a car with manual discs, only power discs. Had many manual non-disc cars to include the '68 Lemans I have. Adding power discs to it however. :thumbsup:


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## goatsnvairs (Sep 12, 2014)

PontiacJim said:


> OK, the RA pan may cover a portion of the covers and minimize them a bit. I like the decal idea if it is fitting.
> 
> You just don't see a manual box too often anymore. Many of the old cars I owned had manual - no problem until you had to parallel park the car. Began my trucking career with a cabover Kenworth that had manual steering. Broke out into a sweat many times trying to maneuver the rig in tight places. Fine when tires are rolling, not so fine turning the wheel stopped.
> 
> I don't think I had a car with manual discs, only power discs. Had many manual non-disc cars to include the '68 Lemans I have. Adding power discs to it however. :thumbsup:


Added benefit to manual steer and brakes: The wife seldom wants to take it for a spin.


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## goatsnvairs (Sep 12, 2014)

*It Runs.......*

Well, I got my radiator in and added a JET stage 2 quadrajet and I have a running 455 GTO. My ballpark rocker arm adjustment was good enough to get her running and high speed idled for about 20 minutes. Had good pressure, had the usual startup leaks here and there, nothing major. Later I had an old valve cover I cut a long hole in and did a running valve adjustment and after a few more tweaks it idles great, has strong steady vacuum, and seemingly great throttle response (granted I have not driven it yet). I actually mocked up the drivers side wheel well and fender, starting to look like a car again. In January I need to add the vintage air setup and then finish putting the front clip on. I didn't do a very good job of taking pics but attached a couple. Yeah, I know the fan sticker is in the wrong place,, and that sorry looking air cleaner is temporary.........


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## goatsnvairs (Sep 12, 2014)

*Progress*

Been doing and redoing stuff. Noticed when the car was running it was making a hissing noise, found out the starter gear was not disengaging from the flywheel, took the starter out (which is a real ordeal on a '67 with ram air exhaust and a 4 speed). Found out the bendix lever came apart, so I took it as an opportunity to just put in a mini starter.

Got the fenders on and to get them to line up I had to raise the core support, which then resulted in the fan hitting the shroud - remount. Put new hinges on the doors because the old ones were super worn out.

Disc brakes on and working, used the Scarebird conversion that uses the Corvette rear rotors and astro van calipers. Once I did that I couldn't get my temporary 14" rims on so I went ahead and got the 17" Year One ralleys I was planning on.

Now sounds good and starting to take shape...


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## goatsnvairs (Sep 12, 2014)

*It has a face.......*

Continuing to do the little stuff in order to make sure I have all the parts I need and to make sure when I get the car back from paint I'm not all over it wrenching on stuff.

Got my pertronix, electric choke, etc wired into the factory harness. Car now starts with the ignition key. Was a bit of a search to find an Ignition on line that didn't have voltage drop on start. Also realizing the new dash harness needed the auto trans neutral safety switch connector needed to be bridged for a 4 speed car tripped me up for a few minutes.....

Mocked up the front end, making sure I had all the necessary hardware. Need new parking light lenses. Still need to get to the dash....


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## Colorado67GTO (Sep 11, 2014)

Looking great. Can't wait to see a Marner Turquoise paint job.


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## goatsnvairs (Sep 12, 2014)

Colorado67GTO said:


> Looking great. Can't wait to see a Marner Turquoise paint job.


Me too, keeps getting pushed back! Every time I think I'm getting close I realize there's 10 other things I should do before I send it off. Dash, Vintage Air.......maybe May?


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## goatsnvairs (Sep 12, 2014)

*Slow going......*

Trying to get my dash back in and working has been slow. I converted to rallye gauges but had to refurb the dash too. I decided the turquoise interior paint I selected wasn't quite right, so I had to take everything out and repaint. Also had a gnarly dash pad I thought I'd never be able to reuse, but it actually came out pretty good. Finally, at reassembly attempt 4 I think I am close to having everything in. A couple more weekends and it's on to vintage air.

On the drive train front, I have my ram air pan installed and all the detailing is near finished. Even installed the little breather element feeding off the passenger valve cover.


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## goatsnvairs (Sep 12, 2014)

*Dash Complete...*

Steering column n wheel in. Have some electrical gremlins but don't have all harnesses in yet.


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## FlambeauHO (Nov 24, 2011)

Looking great!, anxious to see some paint on there as well.


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## goatsnvairs (Sep 12, 2014)

*Vintage Air*

OK, clock is ticking now because I have a body shop date. Have to have all my tinkering done by end of May because the car will be picked up for body work. Been installing my vintage air. Had some trouble with the compressor and tall valve covers, you have to have the compressor so far our you have limited adjustment on the belt. Tried several belts and finally took off the valve cover, put the belt on and adjusted. Seems good. The under dash stuff is not for the faint of heart, once the hoses are connected the unit is hard to get mounted up underneath, but it's done. I now have a glove box big enough for my registration and insurance card. Work on the heat controls next and then wire it up and attaché the hoses and vents.


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## goatsnvairs (Sep 12, 2014)

*Vintage Air continued*

Got a chance to get out there this weekend. So close on the air, I'll be so glad when I'm done under the dash. Got all the hoses run, all the vents in. Calibrated the dash controls, had a few issues but the VA Tech Line is great. All I have left is to add the condenser and charge the system. The defrost and vent air flow is excellent. Got my mini glove box in, fit perfect. Also test mounted some rear speakers so after it's painted I can just drop them in. Body shop picked up my hood and trunk lid to acid dip, I have 3 weeks to go. Decided to try and put in a rear mount remote antenna and radio before I send it off.


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## goatsnvairs (Sep 12, 2014)

*Off to the body shop!*

Well, she's finally on her way to body and paint. Found a local guy with a good rep and decent price. Put a better pass fender on before she went.  Since it has no glass and it's been raining everyday we sent her over in a covered trailer.

I put some LED halos on my Corsa and liked them so much I ordered some for the GTO, got all the wiring in before sending it off. 

Now just wait 3 months. Will be sending progress pics now and then. need to accumulate trim while waiting.


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## goatsnvairs (Sep 12, 2014)

*Body Shop Pics*

Painter sent me some pics, nice to know he's working on it regularly. We originally agreed the pass quarter needed replaced so when I sent the car I also sent one of the new Ames 67 quarter panels. He said it test fit so nice he would really like to do both sides (drivers side was a bit banged up and also had a lower panel welded in). Pony up more cash! Still hoping to get it back end of August........


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## NFDMedic (May 27, 2016)

man that is gonna be one sweet ride


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## goatsnvairs (Sep 12, 2014)

*It's August........*

........that's when I'm supposed to get the car back, by the end of the month. That was before we decided to replace both quarter panels so it may be a bit longer. I took a few pieces of chrome in to get them redone, almost needed to get the heart paddles when I got the quote....

A few pics attached, fenders, doors, top moving along good, starting next week quarter panels, back window area, and tail panel work.


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## goatsnvairs (Sep 12, 2014)

*Quarter Panel Fitment*

Body shop guy working on the car had high praise for the Dynacorn QP I bought from Ames. First pic is what was underneath the old one, will clean it up before welding the new one on. Other pics are from the test fit. Door and trunk gap, rear quarter window line, all line up perfectly. Will be doing both sides.


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## goatsnvairs (Sep 12, 2014)

*2 weeks to paint.....*

...getting a little impatient now. One new quarter panel is on, second is underway. Shop says should be painting in 2 weeks or so. He's going to reassemble all of it once more, while it is assembled I will take my bumpers over and get them all lined up, then take them off again. Have been accumulating parts like front/rear glass, polishing all the trim, etc. Got my chrome back, looks great, put my grille assys together and bumper assemblies. In the pics below I couldn't resist adding a shot of my buddies 62 fuelie vette he brought to my house for a photo op next to the Corsa. Next time I post I hope it is a pic of a freshly painted '67 GTO in Mariner Turquoise on a trailer in front of my garage.....


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## PontiacJim (Dec 29, 2012)

Pics look good. Nice Corvair with your buddies Vette.

Gotta voice my opinion here, so no offense. Ditch the red "455" in the grille. I would use the smaller "455" from the 1972-74 Formula455 fender emblem. It would better match the GTO emblem and I would affix it below & to the right ( looking at it from the front) just under the GTO emblem. I think it would give you a better balance in size, color, with the GTO being the prominent emblem, but make it known the 455 is under the hood. Just sayin'. :thumbsup: Click on the emblem to enlarge. https://www.yearone.com/Product/1967-81-firebird/wp16#prettyPhoto

The '70-71 Formula455 emblem has the larger "455". https://www.yearone.com/Product/1967-81-firebird/wp12#prettyPhoto


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## goatsnvairs (Sep 12, 2014)

*Actual painting starts this week....*

Well, it's October 24th, almost 2 months after I was supposed to have the car back from the body shop. To be honest, an additional quarter panel, some passenger side wheel well damage repair, and odd fitting fenders did set him back a bit, but I'm supposed to go look at the car tonite and give the go / no go before the Mariner Turquoise is applied. Attaching some pics below. Hopefully in the next 2 weeks it will be in my hands again. I guess the good news is during the delay I knocked a bunch of stuff off the honey do list, and also accumulated all the necessary trim for the car.


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## goatsnvairs (Sep 12, 2014)

*....snails pace..........*

......good news is paint has actually been applied, bad news is so far it's minimal. Was supposed to get the car back at Thanksgiving, but what I got was some pics of the underneath of the hood and trunk painted.

Using a Sherwin Williams tri color black / turquoise / clear. Early results look really nice.

Next target Christmas. So close, I'm sure 2-3 days of work would finish it, but that seems very hard for these guys to string together...


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## Sojercol (Nov 15, 2016)

Looking great! Can't wait to see it fully painted.


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## goatsnvairs (Sep 12, 2014)

Sojercol said:


> Looking great! Can't wait to see it fully painted.


After I posted those pics at lunch I texted them and asked how they were doing. Seems working pretty hard, last primer today and start shooting end of week. Yeah, it's gonna be killer. I almost changed from the original color but now I'm glad I didn't.

Have all new chrome just waiting, everything to complete the car except upholstery which I will do over the winter.


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## goatsnvairs (Sep 12, 2014)

*Inching.....*

Latest due date is 1 week from today.

Some tempting updated photos......


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## BearGFR (Aug 25, 2008)

niiiice!

Bear


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## goatsnvairs (Sep 12, 2014)

*Whoaa, beautiful...*

Paint applied yesterday, he was sending me pics as he went. Using tri color, black, green, clear. As of last nite he had dome 3 coats of clear, he was wet sanding today then final 3 clear coats. I am supposed to bring wheels over today because the temp ones he has on rub the fenders and that cant be allowed anymore.

I will be afraid to drive this car.


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## goatsnvairs (Sep 12, 2014)

*Taking delivery this Friday - Merry Christmas*

He picked up my wheels this am, then sent me these pics.


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## 1968gto421 (Mar 28, 2014)

Beautiful!! Definitely you will be afraid to drive this car.


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## goatsnvairs (Sep 12, 2014)

*It's back in my hands...*

Got the car back on Christmas Eve. I was off work the week between Xmas and New Year so timing was good. Now going about the process of reassembly. So far have most of the front and rear trim on. The color is fantastic, so glad I went original. Going to take my time getting all of the outside stuff done, and then work on the interior, the last step. Should be ready for Spring unveiling!


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## PontiacJim (Dec 29, 2012)

Badass! Looking great. Can't wait to see it completed and your opinion on how she runs. :thumbsup:


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## 1968gto421 (Mar 28, 2014)

PontiacJim said:


> Badass! Looking great. Can't wait to see it completed and your opinion on how she runs. :thumbsup:


Jim said it all. Great looking car!!


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## goatsnvairs (Sep 12, 2014)

*Chrome and Stainless....*

....this car has a lot!

Spent yesterday getting the front bumper on then moved on to the rocker chrome. This was not easy since there is so much on a '67. Also, almost all of it was missing when I bought the car so I had a bag of Ames clips of varying types and a bunch of stainless but think I decoded it. Also think my car had the type 1 rocker stainless while the Ames repro is type 2. Anyway, got one side done except the quarter extension, since I have new quarters there are no clip holes, so have to start from scratch. Next weekend! Also had a local guy polish the scratches out of my stainless pieces on the door sills, they look really good. Need to finish getting exterior stuff and and move to interior....


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## 1966GT0 (Jan 17, 2016)

Wow, really nice. You are going to have lots of fun this spring and summer.


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## goatsnvairs (Sep 12, 2014)

*Tedious - Interior Repaint*

There are so many shades of aqua / turquoise. I originally painted my interior sheet metal a light aqua kind of matching it to the new door panels I had. After I got the car back from paint in the original Mariner Turquoise it seemed like the lighter aqua didn't look right. So I took all the interior stuff out again, including steering / dash and started over. Used an OER interior paint for '68 and up GTO. In the first pic below you can see the difference in the 2 dashes I used, old color on the right. Now the interior is a closer match to the exterior. Will start restart reassembly this weekend. Then I'll get to door glass, carpet, headliner, seats. Moving along....

By the way, I need to glue a new wood applique to my dash. Anyone ever use 3M 90 spray adhesive for that? Was wondering what the cure time was and how well it holds. Used the yellow tube stuff last time, not so good.....


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## 1968gto421 (Mar 28, 2014)

Had a friend who some years ago used the 3M spray adhesive to reattach the headliner in a 1992 Lumina and it worked real well. Sorry but I don't remember how long it cured or if it lasted long as he flipped the car not long after.


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## goatsnvairs (Sep 12, 2014)

1968gto421 said:


> Had a friend who some years ago used the 3M spray adhesive to reattach the headliner in a 1992 Lumina and it worked real well. Sorry but I don't remember how long it cured or if it lasted long as he flipped the car not long after.


Appreciate the input. I think I'm going to try it. I'll put gloves on, spray it, lay it in place, take the gloves off and work it down. My guess is you don't want sticky fingers and getting glue on the wood veneer. We'll see this weekend!


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## goatsnvairs (Sep 12, 2014)

*Dash Back In*

Wow, what battle. I had taken my interior apart to change the turquoise color after getting the car back from paint. I repainted all of the interior steel and plastic, and then set about reassembly and making sure all electrics work. First issue was my new turn signal switch, too big for the housing, was arcing off of the side and shorting. Ames offers 2 different parts, get the GM one, it is smaller and doesn't have this interference issue, save yourself a ton of work. Next issue was the Grant horn parts. Kinda rinky dink, took some quick re-engineering involving a nail head, a pen spring, a coil terminal, and a dremel. After 6 tries or so works like a charm. Then the rear taillights would not work, a lot of troubleshooting that led to a bad ground and poor contact surfaces on the body harness that runs to the back. Amazing what a bad ground makes an electrical system do, its like quantum physics, things defy reason.

Anyway, now all working and ready to move forward on interior. Below are some pics, and first outside time since paint and chrome installed!


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## linden_gto (Jan 9, 2017)

looking very nice! love the exterior color. i noticed you had the vintage air ducting painted the interior dash color and that was a great move! really helps to integrate the ducting into the dash and give it a semi-factory look. i'm struggling right now with venting ideas on my vintage air system - i want a factory look in what was a non-air car. keep posting, interested in the final outcome.


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## goatsnvairs (Sep 12, 2014)

linden_gto said:


> looking very nice! love the exterior color. i noticed you had the vintage air ducting painted the interior dash color and that was a great move! really helps to integrate the ducting into the dash and give it a semi-factory look. i'm struggling right now with venting ideas on my vintage air system - i want a factory look in what was a non-air car. keep posting, interested in the final outcome.


Yes, I wanted it to look as original as possible. So far me experience with VA has been great, quality product. The factory controls work everything, and man let me tell you the blower puts out some real air. Defrost / Heat / and Vent Mode all very powerful. I have not charged the system yet. It's all sealed up but in the 2 years I've had it I haven't taken it anywhere yet. I would charge it myself but I'm supposed to have it vacuumed for about 45 mins first....


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## goatsnvairs (Sep 12, 2014)

*So Close......*

I was hoping my next post would be a finished car, but these last steps are slow. This week I found out the windshield I bought last fall is the wrong one. I ordered a 67, they sent me a 68-72. They made it right though, new one on the way along with a rear for cost. Then I found out my seat covers from Ames have a 14 week lead time, so I will miss my appointment with the interior guy who has a 3 month waiting list. Oh well, hope to have the correct glass in end of this week. Then a front end alignment, some exhaust finishing, and air conditioning vacuum and charge. Then I'll drive with the old seats until I can get in for the headliner and seat covers.


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## goatsnvairs (Sep 12, 2014)

*Latest pics*

Above post uploaded w/o pics, here they are....


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## PontiacJim (Dec 29, 2012)

Damn! :cheers I want the first ride! :yesnod:


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