# Rebuilt 400 block stored for 10 years



## Crzybone (Apr 9, 2011)

I purchased a 400 block that was machined and assembled by a very reputable local machine shop, but it has sat in storage for 10 years ever since. Top end was never put on and the block has been double bagged the entire time. The shop is still in business and is the "go to" for most folks around these parts. Before I start bolting on the top, should I have the shop disassemble and re-lube it? Or am I being overly cautious in doing so? Any advice/thoughts/warnings?


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## Red1970GTO (Jun 25, 2011)

I'd ask the machinists at the shop what they think.


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## Goat Roper (Oct 28, 2014)

Assemble it then spin the oil pump with a drill motor before you drop in the distributor then run it like you stole it.


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## oldskool (Apr 26, 2015)

As said, use a good strong 1/2" drill, to spin the oil pump driveshaft in a counter clockwise direction, til you have plenty of oil pumped throughout the engine--more is better ! 

Also, measure the deck height. If it is over .010, you may wanna buy thin Cometic head gaskets, to reduce quench distance. I just looked at your other thread and saw that you said it was zero decked. So, I'll assume that the deck height is .005 or less. 

Have you already made a final decision on your heads and cam ? And I assume you have decided to keep the cast rods ?

http://www.wallaceracing.com/cr_test2.php


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## Crzybone (Apr 9, 2011)

Thanks Fellas.

Oldskool,
The stock cam replacement that's in it now is coming out for the Lunati roller cam. Probably this one. I'm waiting from a response from Lunati now.
E-heads are being worked by Butler as I type, according to them I will be at 10.5:1 compression.
I'm going to stick with the stock rods and crank for now. The car won't see much action for the next few years, they should hold up for what little I'll be driving. Eventually I want to stroke it out to a 461, then I'll step up to an H-beam rod, forged crank and dished pistons. That's probably when it'll finally see some track time.


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## geeteeohguy (Feb 2, 2008)

I personally would disassmble and clean everything, and install fresh lube on the bearings. If this engine was assembled with white lithium grease, it will have turned to plaster by now and will be a disaster. Better safe than sorry, and you are only looking at a little time. Leave the pistons alone, just pull a main and a rod cap and have a look. If clean and lubed with moly lube, don't worry about it. Had a friend who rebuilt a #'s '64 389 tripower engine, and let it sit in a stalled project for 25 years. The guy who bought the car had to install 8 cylinder sleeves due to rust damage and totally re-do the job. Inside storage is much better than outside under a tarp!


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