# NOOB Introduction/Questions



## Antsrcool (Nov 21, 2012)

I just bought a 68 GTO. I have never dealt with restoration before but am a A tech mechanic.I have some questions and im sure I will have more. The car is almost driveable. I think just a day of tinkering will get it going again. It has a 428 in it (i know NOM) It starts with a little fuel in the carb but shuts down. I have a new gastank for it and sender. Then I will blow the lines out and install a few see thru filters till im certain there is no rust. Should fire after that. Carb is already rebuilt. Undercarriage is very nice. Floors and trunk are very nice. Bottoms of the rear Quarters are holey but repairable everything else is good. Has a Hood tach (not hooked up). Also has hideaway headlamps (not hooked up. This should be entertaining) So thats about all i can say for now. My first immediate question is where to find a wire harness for hood tach? How to verify it works before I buy harness?


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## DSMTiger (Nov 17, 2012)

Here's your wiring harness. I use Ames performance Engineering for my source for a lot of GTO items.
https://secure.amesperf.com/qilan/Detail_Web?part_num=M12375&order_number=3054089&web_access=Y]


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## 68GTO4004Spd (Jun 19, 2008)

+2 on Ames, I got 80% of my stuff from them. Performance Years has a forum that is another good resource for information, they have body work and electrical sections along with others. M&H wire harnesse have every harness you can think of. Good choice getting a 68!! And let's see some pics.


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## BearGFR (Aug 25, 2008)

Congrats on the car  Got photos?

Give a holler when you run into questions, I just finished restoring my 69, it's been drivable for about a year now. I did 100% of the work myself, so there's a good chance I've climbed a lot of the same mountains you're looking at.

Bear


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## Eric Animal (Oct 28, 2007)

Welcome! I am almost finished with my 67 resto. I like PY, and they also have a great forum. AMES is a good scource for parts and info also OPGI also has lots of parts, books, etc. Post some pics!!! :cheers Eric


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## Antsrcool (Nov 21, 2012)

well good news...It runs and runs pretty damn well. Has a high idle and a skip in it. Ill try plugs next week and see what they look like. Timing was quite aways off resulting in backfire but ear tuned it for now, will put a light on it after i get the skip out. Any idea where these things like to run? Or just do it by ear? brakes are a horror show. It stops albeit not well. Low pedal feels like I have only one rear and one front brake doing there job. I have a complete disc brake set up for the front that came with the car. Ill probably throw that all together and convert it to power assist as well.


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## Antsrcool (Nov 21, 2012)

Well it had a little skip in it so I thought I check compression. Number 3 cyl has 30 psi. Not good. Did a leak down test and air just rushes out. But I can't tell where. The saga begins.


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## Antsrcool (Nov 21, 2012)

Well took the intake and valley pan off today. Pumped air in cylinder 3 and low and behold. Head gasket is leaking. ALOT. So off comes the heads for a full rebuild. Cam and lifters look brand new as if this thing has been rebuilt already. Don't know what happened on this one hole but I'm on the road to figuring it out.


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## GhostTown (Jan 25, 2011)

Congrats on the car. Love to see some pics.

What does a 428 come out of?


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## BearGFR (Aug 25, 2008)

GhostTown said:


> What does a 428 come out of?


428 was introduced in 1967 and was available in the 'big cars' - Bonneville, Catalina, Wagon, GP, etc.
It was "replaced" in 1970 by the 455.

Bear


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## Antsrcool (Nov 21, 2012)

http://i.imgur.com/JRyVO.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/8iD46.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/qGqjq.jpg

Pics here


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## GhostTown (Jan 25, 2011)

BearGFR said:


> 428 was introduced in 1967 and was available in the 'big cars' - Bonneville, Catalina, Wagon, GP, etc.
> It was "replaced" in 1970 by the 455.
> 
> Bear


Thanks!

Is it a good engine? In other words, was it replaced because there were problems or design flaws with it, or was it simply replaced to satisfy a marketing or power needs?


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## Antsrcool (Nov 21, 2012)

Well Heads are completed and painted with pontiac metallic blue. Block has been prepped and painted as well. Just need to finish putting it together. Left Bank is done. Right bank is almost done just need so install the VC. Next is the valley pan. Any advice on this? Should i Use RTV? It looks like its a must as this gasket will move all over the place if it doesnt have anything to hold it down. Then comes the Intake and bolt up all the brackets and shes ready to fire. Getting close......


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## BearGFR (Aug 25, 2008)

No sir, nothing at all wrong with the 428 - they just decided to go "bigger" and step up to 455.

@Antsrcool -- Go easy on the rtv, you don't want to squish any of it out and have it circulating around in your oiling system. Personally I prefer using Permatex Blue Hylomar for sealing. I use it to stick the gasket to the valley cover, then install it dry to the block and heads. Yo don't have to torque it down like a madman --- "just snug" is plenty good enough. If you're forcing the gasket out, it's too tight.

Bear


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## Antsrcool (Nov 21, 2012)

Ok so she runs. And pretty damn well. Had some lifter clatter for about 10 mins but it cleared up. Also had a TON of white coolant smoke out of left bank. I must have dumped a ton of coolant down the manifold because it cleared up after awhile. Now to figure out the coolant temp gauge and the fuel gauge. After that its time to install front power disc brakes. Anybody know if I can use a manual brake master cyl. With a booster or will I need a new master?


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## jmt455 (Mar 26, 2012)

Red/red with hideaways and an uncut dash - nice score!!!

Patch panels are available form any of the Pontiac restoration parts suppliers, but you can usually order them from your local auto parts store and you won't have to pay shipping. I got my quarter and trunk pans that way.

Coolant and fuel gauge issues are pretty common.
Make sure you have the proper temp sensor for the gauge - I've had a couple of them where the PO had installed the sensor for standard (idiot light) cluster. 

Also, if the car came with standard cluster and it has had a gauge cluster transplant, there are a couple of connector pin changes required for the fuel gauge to work.
Good info here: Gas Guage tech - Page 2 - PY Online Forums


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## Antsrcool (Nov 21, 2012)

Thanks for the link. Left side is DONE. All new LCA bushings all new Upper Control arm bushings, new balljoints, sway bar links and bushings, new rotors, calipers, brake hoses, wheel bearings, shocks, I think thats about it......now on to the other side.


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## Too Many Projects (Nov 15, 2008)

To answer your question about the master....you need a disc/drum master for the swap. Drum brake masters have a residual valve to hold around 4-5 lbs of pressure in the wheel cylinders and you can't have that much pressure on the caliper or it will over heat the disc. If you are concerned about it looking original, check with Inline tube The brake plumbing experts for a new replacement that looks original. I've bought 3 from them now and have had no issues. I'm pretty certain '68 still had a round hold off valve mounted to the master that the front hard line went to from the master. It held off pressure to the disc's for a second so the rears had a chance to start working. Inline has that too and all the prebent conversion hard lines out of the master to the distribution block.


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## Antsrcool (Nov 21, 2012)

Well I think I have everything hooked up properly. However I have no rear brakes. I have low pressure to the rear. Is the proportioning valve the same on drum? Or will I need to replace that? Also I see the brake pedal sits lower and the brake light switch is away from the pedal. Will I need a new switch? Or do I need a new pedal assembly? Trying to modernize this thing is proving to be a giant PITA


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## Antsrcool (Nov 21, 2012)

Bumping for exposure.


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## BearGFR (Aug 25, 2008)

Have you bled all the air out of the lines?

Bear


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## Too Many Projects (Nov 15, 2008)

Antsrcool said:


> Well I think I have everything hooked up properly. However I have no rear brakes. I have low pressure to the rear. Is the proportioning valve the same on drum? Or will I need to replace that? Also I see the brake pedal sits lower and the brake light switch is away from the pedal. Will I need a new switch? Or do I need a new pedal assembly? Trying to modernize this thing is proving to be a giant PITA


Did you thoroughly bench bleed the master before install ?? That is a common issue with no pressure to the rears. The distribution block is the same for drum and disc. 
Low pedal....did you go from manual to power ? I don't remember, but the clevis at the pedal needs to be in the lower hole on the pedal for power. The clevis rod will have threads to adjust the reach. If the brake switch is close, you just need to adjust that towards the pedal until the brake lights go out.

Some pics of the booster/master, hard lines, hold off valve and distribution block would be helpful to see what you have.


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## Antsrcool (Nov 21, 2012)

Ok I can get pics. Also I'll look under the dash. I'm pretty sure there was only one hole in the pedal? I will look again though. I did bench bleed the master as well. I have a power bleeder that I will try as a last resort.


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## Antsrcool (Nov 21, 2012)

So I have pics now. It was indeed in the lower hole. However I adjusted the rod out as far as safely possible and there is still a good gap between brake light switch and pedal. I am considering just bending the bracket a little bit. I also replaced all rear brakes and hardware. The wheel cylinders appear to be seized so I replaced them as well. 
http://i.imgur.com/hEjg0.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/W5nsb.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/XpQL2.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/kcPiU.jpg


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## Antsrcool (Nov 21, 2012)

Haven't tried rebleeding since the new cylinders installed. Will update on that later today.


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## Antsrcool (Nov 21, 2012)

Ok so brakes are perfect. Booster was bad and that's what was causing crummy brakes. New booster installed and took it for a maiden voyage. It drove pretty nice. Got it back and shut it off.....dead. Starter went. So install new starter and discover that the battery is not charging well. Alternator charges if I apply power to the right terminal on the plug. Not sure what that's all about. But it's a challenge but I'm narrowing down the issues. Probably going to need to install a rear main as it appears to he leaking pretty good.


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## Too Many Projects (Nov 15, 2008)

:cool glad you got most of it working right. The brake switch should have a good inch of threads to get it to the arm, but if not, bending the bracket a little won't hurt either.


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## Antsrcool (Nov 21, 2012)

Ok new solid state regulator and new alternator and we are charging at 14.1! Fixed all the rear lights.....I hate body grounded sockets! I also hate what a massive PITA the rear bulb sockets are to get to. Fixed all the poorly grounded sockets and it the directionals now work perfect. Bent the brake light switch bracket and now brake lights work. Took it for a ride and came back and starter just went CLICK. That hard infamous bad starter click. The new starter I just put in was junk. Replaced that again getting real good at taking this out I had to try about 5 shim combinations!


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## Antsrcool (Nov 21, 2012)

Ok today I put in a new heater core and new blower motor. Then I tackled the headlight doors. Replaced about 10 miles of vacuum line and now the doors work perfect. It winks a little bit. Meaning one opens and closes a little faster then the other but I am going to live with that. So new actuators, line, headlamp switch, and bushing kit and the flip doors work. Tomorrow I will try and get it somewhere to get a new top put on it.


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## Too Many Projects (Nov 15, 2008)

You're making fast progress. It will be ready for summer cruisin'...


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## Antsrcool (Nov 21, 2012)

That's the plan. It's nice being a couple hours from Ames. It basically means overnight shipping! I want to get this thing in paint by the end of next week.


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## Too Many Projects (Nov 15, 2008)

Antsrcool said:


> That's the plan. It's nice being a couple hours from Ames. It basically means overnight shipping! I want to get this thing in paint by the end of next week.


Being 2 hours from Ames would be extremely dangerous and expensive for me...:willy:


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## Antsrcool (Nov 21, 2012)

ok so new top was being installed today.......COLD RIDE 15 miles down the highway with no top! Todays high was 19! I loved the odd looks though. So when I get it back ill retake some photos. Its coming along nicely. I just need to install cluster and it should be reliable road worthy. I need some advice though on adjusting the windows. The rear window and door window dont line up nicely. So any insight on that would be good. Also the rubber on the rear window where it touches the door window could use replacing. Any advice on how to get that apart is greatly appreciated.


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## Too Many Projects (Nov 15, 2008)

The rubber seal on the quarter glass slides out the bottom of the chrome piece. It is a T channel. Get the replacement set first and you will see how it interlocks. Get the set with the metal insert inside, like the originals. The all rubber seals don't work as well. Once you have the new seal, you won't be afraid to destroy the old one getting it out. I use a visegrips and start pulling down from the bottom. They seem to have some sort of glue or are rusted from age and can be very hard to pull out. By starting at the bottom and stretching the rubber, it will break free and slide out. Clean the metal track of any debris or rust. Lots of soapy water to keep the new one lubricated will help. It may take some patience to pull the new one up by hand and a small screw driver to feed it into the channel along the way.

Adjusting the glass isn't something I'm going to attempt to describe. It can be very frustrating with all the different adjustment that are possible between the 2 pieces. The quarter glass has the most adjustability to get it vertical and to stop at the right place for the door glass to seal. If you have a good local body shop with an old school body man, I would ask them how much to do it. You may be able to save a little on the cost by doing the R&R of the interior panels yourself.


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## Antsrcool (Nov 21, 2012)

Ok we'll coming home from the top place the rear end begins howling bad. Probably a blessing because the gearing is not good anyway. I was doing about 50 to 55 and it seemed like I was turning some RPM. So any suggestions on what gearing this thing should have? Also where to get gears?


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## Antsrcool (Nov 21, 2012)

ok so im thinking a 3.08 gear should be a sweet highway gear and yet still burn some tire if need be. Will this set work? Richmond Gear 49-0094-1 Richmond Gear GM 12-Bolt Ring & Pinion Sets Also what else would I need to put this thing together? Jegs makes it a little confusing as to what you need.


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## Antsrcool (Nov 21, 2012)

Bump for exposure.


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## Instg8ter (Sep 28, 2010)

3:08 is good all around gear, i would take it to a rear end shop and let them install, has to be shimmed correctly or it won't last.


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## Antsrcool (Nov 21, 2012)

Well I found a 2.93 posi out of a Chevelle. I know it's not the right rear rear end but its practical for what this car will be. I will keep the Pontiac rear for the next person that wants to buy it.


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## Too Many Projects (Nov 15, 2008)

Antsrcool said:


> Well I found a 2.93 posi out of a Chevelle. I know it's not the right rear rear end but its practical for what this car will be. I will keep the Pontiac rear for the next person that wants to buy it.


What year Chevelle ?? I've never heard of a 2.93 ratio...:confused


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## roadrunnerats (Jan 30, 2013)

*66 Pontiac*

Yes Hello,

I'm in the process of putting the finishing touches on a 1966 Pontiac GTO with a 389 Tri-Power. It's and automatic. I have noticed that the belts are off direction wise, this car does have A/C. I have done some research and found that the engine calls for a 3 groove crank pulley. I have a couple of questions:

1. Where can I find a 3 channel pulley for the Crank?
2. Is the 389 Tri-Power internally/externally balanced?
3. Does anyone know where I can find/buy a blue deluxe style seatbelt with the Fisher logo?

Help and advice is greatly appreciated?

Thank You


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## Antsrcool (Nov 21, 2012)

Why is everyone jacking my post?!


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## FlambeauHO (Nov 24, 2011)

My guess would be the title


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## Antsrcool (Nov 21, 2012)

I know it would be wise however to at least read the 1st post lol.


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## Instg8ter (Sep 28, 2010)

1. Any of the restoration books should have an AC pulley or e-bay
2. all 389's are internally balanced
3. those are the deluxe seatbelts and can be hard to find, try E-bay, i have a blue set with the GM logo, but i was able to save my deluxes by soaking them for a month in miracle oil and working them loose.


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## Antsrcool (Nov 21, 2012)

Well I need a little guidance.......I purchased a fully rebuilt 1968 YS 400 for the car and am getting ready to install that. Now I came across what appears to be a chevy 12 bolt rear end. It has 2.73 gears and is a POSI. I want to put this in the GTO and keep the stock 10 bolt for a later rebuild when money is flowing better. Will I need anything special to bolt this thing up? The shock mount brackets look different but they might work but cant tell. I was hoping for a little guidance from the powers that be. Also I am converting to HEI and could use a little help as to which ignition wires to use and how to wire it up. Thank guys!


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## Too Many Projects (Nov 15, 2008)

The 12 bolt sounds like it's out of a Monte Carlo. It will bolt right in. I didn't find what you are running for a trans. If automatic, the 2.73 gears will be OK, especially for cruising. If you have a 4 speed they are going to be a PITA for getting going from a stop.

The HEI requires full 12 volts. You will need to run a new wire to bypass the original resistance wire. There are kits to make that easy or others may have a self-rewire option.


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## BearGFR (Aug 25, 2008)

One easy way to wire the HEI is to do what I did. Go buy a generic headlight relay, mount it on the firewall and wire it up so your existing coil wire (12v + side) is used to energize the relay instead of going to the coil. Use the switched path through the relay to send 12v to the HEI straight from the battery (through a fuse). No muss, no fuss, and you preserve your original wiring in case you ever want to go back 100% stock.

Bear


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## Antsrcool (Nov 21, 2012)

i like that relay idea. I always like relays to take the "load off." OK and I am running a turbo 400 that gear should make this girl be a nice highway cruiser. Low engine temps. I have one final question. What does that thermal vacuum switch do? And where does it hook to?


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## Too Many Projects (Nov 15, 2008)

BearGFR said:


> One easy way to wire the HEI is to do what I did. Go buy a generic headlight relay, mount it on the firewall and wire it up so your existing coil wire (12v + side) is used to energize the relay instead of going to the coil. Use the switched path through the relay to send 12v to the HEI straight from the battery (through a fuse). No muss, no fuss, and you preserve your original wiring in case you ever want to go back 100% stock.
> 
> Bear


That IS a slick trick. Good thing the relay works off the reduced voltage/amperage, which ever it is...


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## BearGFR (Aug 25, 2008)

I wish I could take credit for it, but actually I stole the idea from Instg8ter.... 

Bear


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## Instg8ter (Sep 28, 2010)

you will love that 2:73 posi with the T-400, Pontiac motors make a lot of low end torque and can get that tall gear turning pretty quick. Should be able to roll down the freeway at comfortable RPM, bury the speedo if 120 thrills you, and still be able to lay rubber on the streets any time your foot feels the need. Have a 12 bolt with 3:55 sitting in the shop and i am really not in any hurry to change out the 2:XX peg leg in my car because of the above stated and the fact that the 473 gets mid teens in gas mileage if i keep my foot out of the hole....most of the time...

Thanks for the credit BEAR, i'll pass some to JetStang as he confirmed the article i had found about it and had it in his LeMans also. Noting like a 5.00 fix that can save a few hundred in time.


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## Antsrcool (Nov 21, 2012)

Glad to hear that rear is going to be sweet. Now if anyone could tell me how to hook up that vacuum advance thermal switch that would be great.


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## Too Many Projects (Nov 15, 2008)

Antsrcool said:


> Glad to hear that rear is going to be sweet. Now if anyone could tell me how to hook up that vacuum advance thermal switch that would be great.


That switch controls when the vacuum will go to the distributor. It is, obviously, controlled by temp. I always removed and threw them away and ran the vacuum full time. The switch was only to meet emissions levels back then and didn't do anything for performance or economy.

You should be able to find a hose routing in a Motors Service manual.


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## BearGFR (Aug 25, 2008)

Antsrcool said:


> Glad to hear that rear is going to be sweet. Now if anyone could tell me how to hook up that vacuum advance thermal switch that would be great.


Are you running a factory style distributor that has TWO vacuum connections on the advance canister? One is for advance, the other is for retard. If by chance you're not, then the TVS connections don't matter.

If you are, then this diagram should help:
http://firstgenfirebird.org/FAQ/docs/6D-11.pdf

Bear


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## Antsrcool (Nov 21, 2012)

Converting to HEI so i will put a plug in its spot! That is good intel. I am going to run an edelbrock intake and HEI. I also am going to run a slightly colder plug I think. So I should just run ported vacuum to the advance and call it a day?


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## Too Many Projects (Nov 15, 2008)

Antsrcool said:


> Converting to HEI so i will put a plug in its spot! That is good intel. I am going to run an edelbrock intake and HEI. I also am going to run a slightly colder plug I think. So I should just run ported vacuum to the advance and call it a day?


Today's distributors are curved for full advance at idle and drop under load (low vacuum). You should consult the manual for the HEI you plan to install, but I bet they will call for manifold vacuum.


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## Antsrcool (Nov 21, 2012)

A couple more issues that arose today upon final assembly. One is the alternator bracket that bolts to the front of the water pump no longer lines up. The 428 I took off had more holes around the perimeter of the water pump then this one does. Any ideas on that? Also I learned that 12 bolt rear is out of an Oldsmobile because it doesn't have C clips. Will I have fitment issues?


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## Too Many Projects (Nov 15, 2008)

Antsrcool said:


> A couple more issues that arose today upon final assembly. One is the alternator bracket that bolts to the front of the water pump no longer lines up. The 428 I took off had more holes around the perimeter of the water pump then this one does. Any ideas on that? Also I learned that 12 bolt rear is out of an Oldsmobile because it doesn't have C clips. Will I have fitment issues?


The 428 has a newere water pump. You'll most likely need a correct bracket for the '68 pump.

I hope you didn't buy the 12 bolt, because it isn't really a 12 bolt. You've been deceived. It is an 8.5 10 bolt inside with a 12 bolt cover. It is a little stronger than the 8.2 but not as strong as a real 12 bolt. If it ever needs parts or repair, they are hard to find and expensive.


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## Antsrcool (Nov 21, 2012)

Sweet news on the rear.....my plan is to rebuild the Pontiac rear when money gets better anyway. The "12" bolt is a mere filler till next year sometime.


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## Antsrcool (Nov 21, 2012)

But will it fit?


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## BearGFR (Aug 25, 2008)

Take some measurements. If it came out of a GM A-body, then the spring mounts and all are most likely going to be in the right spots. Measure the distance across it from one wheel to the other (to the back side of the brakes). If it's the same as yours, it should plop right in.

Bear


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## Antsrcool (Nov 21, 2012)

Motor is in......some car porn for ya! http://i.imgur.com/mNTlBNX.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/c3kT0WZ.jpg


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## Antsrcool (Nov 21, 2012)

so i plan on starting this thing and driving it by monday afternoon. Any tips on breaking in this fully rebuilt motor?


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## BearGFR (Aug 25, 2008)

Use oil that has a good ZDDP content, or add some ZDDP additive.

Prime the oiling system first - use a reversible drill (Pointiac distributors turn conter-clockwise), remove the distributor and the rocker covers - spin the oil pump with the drill (use a removed/cut up distributor shaft, a big long flat blade screwdriver with the handle cut off) until you see oil coming out the tops of all 16 pushrods. You make hve to turn the motor over a little by hand.

Make sure your cooling system is topped off and ready to go.

Have a big fan to blow air into the radiator.

Once the motor starts, DO NOT let it go below 2000 rpm for the first 20 minutes. Vary the rpm a little bit, between 2000 and 2300 or so to break in the cam. Don't worry about ignition timing or anything else until this step is done. Don't stop unless you've got an obvious problem like a serious leak or it's overheating.

What cam + valve springs are you running? If "heavier" than stock and you're running double springs (inners and outers), it's a good idea to remove the inners and do your cam break-in on the outers only. Less chance of chewing up a cam lobe that way. Then once the cam is broken in, re-installl the inner springs.

Once the cam break in is done, THEN set your ignition timing, reinstall the inner valve springs (if you removed them).

Bear


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## Antsrcool (Nov 21, 2012)

It's all a stock set up on cam lifters etc. only thing is a .30 bore.


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## Antsrcool (Nov 21, 2012)

Problem number 879000. The pulleys no longer line up. I have the 428 pulleys installed on this motor. The water pump pulley sits too far back and I can't attach the power steer hose. 
Pics: http://i.imgur.com/Jc9kL70.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/qxA57zJ.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/HpE4kth.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/r72jR1u.jpg


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## Antsrcool (Nov 21, 2012)

Ok well I went out on a limb and bought a pulley from a 68.


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## BearGFR (Aug 25, 2008)

Man oh man have I ever been there... From my experience, what Pontiac gained by making all their blocks the same dimensions, they more than "made up for" by having a zillion different combinations of pulleys and brackets. The key to making it all work will be to make *sure* you're using accessories, brackets, pulleys, and harmonic balancer all from the same model year, and it's better if that model year is 71 or later. Why? For example in model year 1969 there were two different water pump lengths used in A-bodies and they changed in mid-year. If you have pulleys from an "early production" 69 and try to use water pump + accessories from a "late production" 69, you're in for a big adventure - ask me how I know 

Bear


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## Antsrcool (Nov 21, 2012)

well I have an 8 hole waterpump. Therefore i can do anthing later model unless I swap timing covers. I dont really want to do that but I guess if I had to I would. I have an 11 bolt timing cover off of the 428 I can use. I have it rigged right now so I can drive it but its obviously not correct.


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## BearGFR (Aug 25, 2008)

Having a 8 hole pump isn't necesarily a problem. Pull your water pump pulley and measure the distance from the front side of the pulley flange on the front, to the back of the water pump housing (where it meets the timing cover). If it's 4 1/2" (which it probably is), then it's the same depth as the later model long snout pumps and you'll be able to use '71 accessories and brackets with no problem. Again, it's more important to make sure everything is from the same model year --- and in some cases, the same *part* of the model year.

Bear


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## Antsrcool (Nov 21, 2012)

It's less then 4.5 I think it's 3.5. The 11 bolt one was a 4.5.


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## Antsrcool (Nov 21, 2012)

Luckily the pulley I bought worked slick as can be. New aluminum radiator installed engine bay detailed and running well with about 8 BTDC


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## Antsrcool (Nov 21, 2012)

well i have no idea what this rear end went to. I was smart enough to check lug pattern before i mounted it and its not coorect the drum is also massive in contrast to stock. No idea


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## Antsrcool (Nov 21, 2012)

Ok next ? Why don't my concealed wipers conceal? I have them adjusted as far down As I can and they are still sitting above the stainless trim. Not sure what's up with that.


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## HP11 (Apr 11, 2009)

Don't know if it's the same or even similar but when I got my El Camino they were like that. All I did was unbolt them from that position and put them in the concealed position, bolt them back on and they've worked properly ever since.


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## 68GTO4004Spd (Jun 19, 2008)

Is your wiper motor going into "park"? I bet that is your problem, check out youtube for wiper motor testing.


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## Antsrcool (Nov 21, 2012)

It goes into park because when its on they sit higher. Then when I shut it off it has that pause then drops lower.


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## Instg8ter (Sep 28, 2010)

sounds like you need to pull the arms and clock them on the shafts, are the going past the windshield at the end of the upstroke?


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## Antsrcool (Nov 21, 2012)

They are slightly.


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## FlambeauHO (Nov 24, 2011)

That is your problem then, like Brian said you need to re-clock the arms. Its a trial and error process to get it just right. It should rest on the stainless trim outcropping below the hood line. Also be sure you have a concealed wiper motor. They are different and include the park position.


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## FlambeauHO (Nov 24, 2011)




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## Instg8ter (Sep 28, 2010)

at least you guys have the park, when i first put mine on i was rushing to finish up the details for a saturday car show. Would'nt you know it just as the show was ending the heavens opened up. me and the daughter hopped in the car and set out for the 1/2 mile drive home. Hit the wipers and the promptly came up halfway then wedged themselves under the hood. White knuckled the whole way home with 30' visibility. When i had set them i did not realize that the motor was in mid sequence.


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## Antsrcool (Nov 21, 2012)

i cant clock the left arm because it has a tab and will only go on one way..... the right one i can put on anywhere i want. Am i missing something here?


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## Antsrcool (Nov 21, 2012)

bueller? bueller?


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## Instg8ter (Sep 28, 2010)

tab should be just to release it from the shaft, you need to rotate it a few teeth towards your hood, not sure in 66' we did'nt have those fancy hide away wiper arms...and Park was where you put your gear shifter if you did'nt want your car to roll away...


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## Antsrcool (Nov 21, 2012)

No I mean the round toothed nub that the arm sets on has a bump in it. Therefore it can only be put on in one spot.


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## Instg8ter (Sep 28, 2010)

HMMMM...is your new motor exactly like the one removed? Is the arm attachment in the same place when it would be concealed on the new motor compared to the old?


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## Antsrcool (Nov 21, 2012)

Motor appears to be the same however the old one they sat in the same spot.


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## Instg8ter (Sep 28, 2010)

you could always grind the hump flat and that would allow you to rotate the left one like the right to where you want it. there is no fine tuning the rotation on the motor i assume.


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## Rukee (Feb 8, 2007)

Sounds as if maybe someone has changed on of the wiper trannys with one from another car. Is there any way to put the one with the tab in the correct place, then re clock the other one then change the clocking on the motor?


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## Antsrcool (Nov 21, 2012)

i dunno guys ill get you some photos. Today i had to replace the NEW trans Modulator that i replaced as a pro active move so the car didnt start sucking in trans fluid. Well went for a ride today and it smoked so bad you couldnt see behind it.....Guess what? Modulator shot. Brand new litterally about 2 miles on it. I hate China


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## BearGFR (Aug 25, 2008)

Antsrcool said:


> Ok next ? Why don't my concealed wipers conceal? I have them adjusted as far down As I can and they are still sitting above the stainless trim. Not sure what's up with that.


I just ran into this putting my car back together, and I bet I know what your problem is. At the point where the wipers connect to the wiper motor behind the cowl, the crank that fits onto the wiper motor: one end goes onto the motor shaft, the other end has sort of a ball joint that connects to the wiper drive arm assembly. If you'll look, you'll see that the ball end goes into a bracket that's held onto the main wiper arm with two bolts. Notice the bolt holes in that bracket are slotted. That's your adjustment. 

Here's what you do:
* Turn on the wipers, turn them off, and let the motor "park".
* Loosen those two bolts on the bracket just enough so that you can slide that bracket back and forth on the wiper drive arm.
* Move the wipers down by hand to wherever you want them to park.
*Re-tighten those two bolts.

It may take you a couple of tries to get it right due to the slack in all the various joints, but that's how you do it.

Bear


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