# Tips in lifting front 05 goat for oil change?....



## pctek (Jul 18, 2010)

Tommorow Ill be changing the motor oil on my 05 A4, so what tips you guys have the lift end to do the oil change job?

I was thinking to left up the front with 2 small regular jacks on each side those jack points close to the front wheels but then since that taking up the jacking points where do I put jacks stands for safety?

Thanks


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## AlaGreyGoat (Jul 6, 2006)

I jack under the front control arms and use the jack points
for the jack stands.

Larry


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## Poncho Dan (Jun 30, 2009)

Pick it up by the rear of the engine cradle, behind the oil pan. If your floorjack doesn't make it underneath the car, drive the car up on some 2X10 boards or something like that.

These are the lift & jack stand points.


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## Mike_V (Mar 10, 2006)

You can jack it up and still have enough room to slide the stands under. Where you'll jack it up is just normal paint, so put something on the jack and stands to prevent metal to metal contact.


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## Poncho Dan (Jun 30, 2009)

Metal to metal contact won't hurt it, and using wood/plastic shims between the stands and the car is incredibly unsafe. Just make sure you put the stands in the correct spot, and take your time, you won't dingle anything. I've lifted the car several times with a floorjack, and it still takes me 10-15 minutes to get the car lifted and the stands positioned correctly.


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## HP11 (Apr 11, 2009)

I use these and the ones on the stands don't affect the stability:


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## GM4life (Mar 18, 2007)

^^HP11 where did you get those jack stands? Have you used them on the frame rails? Mine are too deep to use on frame rails.


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## svede1212 (Nov 1, 2005)

The best and easiest way to "lift" the front end is Rhino ramps, period.


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## HP11 (Apr 11, 2009)

GM4life said:


> ^^HP11 where did you get those jack stands? Have you used them on the frame rails? Mine are too deep to use on frame rails.


I bought the pads from Harbor Freight, but the stands are from Sears and they do work.


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## Mike_V (Mar 10, 2006)

HP11 said:


> I bought the pads from Harbor Freight, but the stands are from Sears and they do work.


Wow, much better than my cut sections of rubber flooring. Nice find.


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## GM4life (Mar 18, 2007)

HP11 said:


> I bought the pads from Harbor Freight, but the stands are from Sears and they do work.


Wish I would have saw your post before I went into town. I need them in order to lift the rear and support it on the frame rails. Thanks.


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## pctek (Jul 18, 2010)

Kinda of confused where am I suppose to be lifting the front? Is it at the edge by the front tires right under neath the our gound effects body part, or is it more inward where the metal frame is at? If its here the frame why are you guys worrying about rubber pads in messing up paint? Mine does havent paint its just typical ugly looking frame color like normal? Thanks


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## HP11 (Apr 11, 2009)

Look back at post #3. Yellow is where the jack goes and green is where the stands go. I've pretty much always used some type of padding on my jack and stands...long before I had this car.


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## pctek (Jul 18, 2010)

HP11 said:


> Look back at post #3. Yellow is where the jack goes and green is where the stands go. I've pretty much always used some type of padding on my jack and stands...long before I had this car.


Ok so the front green points I been using that to lift up with small jacks I have, then I place jacks stands next to them since I still had room still. 

Why pad the jacks? Just to not scratch the frame or what?


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## Mike_V (Mar 10, 2006)

Hold on - I'll do a diagram that's better than the picture.


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## Mike_V (Mar 10, 2006)

LOL - hope this helps.

The solid red portion is the flat metal you'll see connecting from the outer edge (rocker) area of the car to the solid frame section where you want to lift. Put the jack on the blue portion then slide the stand to the green portion.

DO NOT LIFT WHERE THE SOLID RED IS. The first time you do this it's hard to see where the solid frame begins without some light. Once you see it, you'll never have a problem again.


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## pctek (Jul 18, 2010)

Mike_V said:


> LOL - hope this helps.
> 
> The solid red portion is the flat metal you'll see connecting from the outer edge (rocker) area of the car to the solid frame section where you want to lift. Put the jack on the blue portion then slide the stand to the green portion.
> 
> DO NOT LIFT WHERE THE SOLID RED IS. The first time you do this it's hard to see where the solid frame begins without some light. Once you see it, you'll never have a problem again.


haha that works the same or maybe better than the post # 3 picture.

Yea that what I did yesterday when changing oil put stands next to where i lift.

Speaking of that no no red area, stupid me when I first bought it couple months ago I did jack it up in the red area and found out that thin walled frame was caving in. So in that red area it is caved in a little, lucky its not going to a fashion show or it'll lose


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## Mike_V (Mar 10, 2006)

Well, no harm if you didn't hear a loud snap I guess 

I vote to bring back full frames - screw unibody.


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## HP11 (Apr 11, 2009)

pctek said:


> Ok so the front green points I been using that to lift up with small jacks I have, then I place jacks stands next to them since I still had room still.
> 
> Why pad the jacks? Just to not scratch the frame or what?


I use a 3 ton floor jack so it reaches the front or rear jacking points (yellow in post 3) with no problem and lifts both sides to where I can easily place the stands at the corresponding points (green in post 3). I bought that jack at least 25 years ago from Price Club when they were still in business. As I recall I paid 40 bucks for it. Amazingly, it still works fine. The only thing I ever replaced on it was the handle return spring. I guess I pad the jack and stands out of habit that I picked up many years ago. My Dad and my older brother always did and I picked up the habit from them.


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## Mike_V (Mar 10, 2006)

When you're jacking there's going to be motion and more force on one section of the jack. I've seen some deep marks left into the metal. The stands are also going to have one edge taking more weight and motion when you jack the other side - so I pad them too. It's better than having naked metal when you're done.


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## AlaGreyGoat (Jul 6, 2006)

I use an old paperback book for a pad on my
floor jack. Works great.

Larry


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