# Bone stock GTO with Spintech exhaust



## Hashem (Mar 26, 2013)

Hey guys! I'm new to this forum and this is my first post, so I decided to share a video with you. My '05 GTO is bone stock, I have recently installed a Spintech exhaust system with H-pipe. I'm planning on getting LT's soon, but not sure which brand to go with, my budget is around 500-900$. Anyway, I will leave you with the video, let me know what you think.

http://i50.tinypic.com/2ynfe5k.jpg

http://i45.tinypic.com/2ez6zxv.jpg

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8kCpIGdwqqM


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## reddtheLegend (Nov 22, 2012)

sounds good, i'd go with larger exhaust tips though they look a bit small

mine with slp loudmouth


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## Rukee (Feb 8, 2007)

Sounds nice!! :cheers


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## svede1212 (Nov 1, 2005)

They look big enough to me. I believe in truth in advertising. I have dual 2.5" pipes and they go out 2.5" tips. Ricers have a 1.75" single pipe with 5" tips. 

IMHO the O.P. should have skipped the cat-back and gone with better headers if the budget was tight.


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## Hashem (Mar 26, 2013)

reddtheLegend said:


> sounds good, i'd go with larger exhaust tips though they look a bit small


Yeah I thought they looked terrible at first, but I think i got over it lol. I don't think I will spend any more $ on appearance, I want more POWER


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## Hashem (Mar 26, 2013)

Btw, would you guys recommend pacesetter LT's?? I've heard a lot about them and people seem to love them!
And the other thing, would you say that I have to tune up the engine after the LT's? I was thinking of getting an intake and a cam not long after and I know I have to tune up after a camshift.


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## svede1212 (Nov 1, 2005)

Get coated long tubes no matter what and get stainless if at all possible. My pick for top dollar would be Kooks stepped. You get better peak performance and better performance over a wider band of power. Dynatech are easy to install as well as SLPs under that (they come already coated w/a lower grade of 409 stainless ). PS are OK but besides being made of regular steel that rusts they aren't the best design. Coating BTW is mostly a performance mod with appearance being second. Coated regular steel will still rust just not as fast.


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## Hashem (Mar 26, 2013)

svede1212 said:


> Get coated long tubes no matter what and get stainless if at all possible. My pick for top dollar would be Kooks stepped. You get better peak performance and better performance over a wider band of power. Dynatech are easy to install as well as SLPs under that (they come already coated w/a lower grade of 409 stainless ). PS are OK but besides being made of regular steel that rusts they aren't the best design. Coating BTW is mostly a performance mod with appearance being second. Coated regular steel will still rust just not as fast.


Kooks are a bit over my budget, but I will try to save up some money to get them. 
Here is what I'm planning to do with my baby:
1. Long tube headers.
2. Cold intake filter; K&N or Volant.
3. Tune up.
4. Camshift.
5. Pushrods. 
6. Spring kit.
7. Tune up again lol.

What do you guys think?


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## grifter95 (Nov 28, 2012)

Don't waste the money on a K&N. Get the Svede or atleast the Vararam. Anything else is a waste. 
Longtubes... difference between best and worst on a normal N/A vehicle is minimal. But nice ones do look great and continue to look great for years to come.

Rest of mods depends on what you actually want. Just a fun daily driver? If so a good cam and accessories will be fine. If you want something that will whoop up on a vette... go F/I. Way cheaper to do a F/I 600 hp car than a N/A 600 hp car! I did the math...


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## Hashem (Mar 26, 2013)

grifter95 said:


> Don't waste the money on a K&N. Get the Svede or atleast the Vararam. Anything else is a waste.
> Longtubes... difference between best and worst on a normal N/A vehicle is minimal. But nice ones do look great and continue to look great for years to come.
> 
> Rest of mods depends on what you actually want. Just a fun daily driver? If so a good cam and accessories will be fine. If you want something that will whoop up on a vette... go F/I. Way cheaper to do a F/I 600 hp car than a N/A 600 hp car! I did the math...


I dunno why people hate K&N lol. However, I could go with something else. 
My gto is my daily driver, aside from my motorcycle.
I'm horse power junkie, but I don't intend to race(not legally anyway), but I like to know that I have the power if I wanted to.
Thanks for your comment though, every comment helps.


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## SANDU002 (Oct 13, 2004)

My son has spintech, kook lt and cai and tune. 378 rwhp and the car sounds like it has a cam. Most tunes will run $500-700 so I would wait until you have $$$ for lt's cai & cam to save you some tuning $$$. Remember, if you are not installing any of this yourself, allow extra $$ for that as well. Suspension upgrades should take priority.


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## MadeInAmerica (Jun 17, 2013)

grifter95 said:


> Don't waste the money on a K&N. Get the Svede or atleast the Vararam. Anything else is a waste.
> Longtubes... difference between best and worst on a normal N/A vehicle is minimal. But nice ones do look great and continue to look great for years to come.
> 
> Rest of mods depends on what you actually want. Just a fun daily driver? If so a good cam and accessories will be fine. If you want something that will whoop up on a vette... go F/I. Way cheaper to do a F/I 600 hp car than a N/A 600 hp car! I did the math...


sorry for budding in here, just trying to get ideas for my build, but what do you mean by F/I and N/A. not sure what it stands for, i know my build would be to whoop up on a vette but not too much to where it will be a track only car


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## turbofan (Jun 2, 2013)

MadeInAmerica said:


> sorry for budding in here, just trying to get ideas for my build, but what do you mean by F/I and N/A. not sure what it stands for, i know my build would be to whoop up on a vette but not too much to where it will be a track only car


F/I = Forced Induction
N/A = Naturally aspirated


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