# Distributor Wiring.



## kilkm68 (May 5, 2011)

The fun never seems to end. Apparently have developed an electrical problem of sorts. I took the car around the block the other day and it was cutting out slightly, then a backfire through the carb, then a moment later, just shut off, like I turned the key off. Cranked it over, wasn't firing, tried again and it acted like it was firing on 1 cylinder. Advanced the distributor slightly and it started and ran normally back to the garage. The car was running perfectly before this. Checked the timing and it looked fine, 15 before and 34 total. I have a new DUI distributor, new plug wires and new NGK plugs gapped at .055 as recommended by DUI. As I said the car had been running perfect. I'm going to run a new hot wire to the distributor, I found the wire on there now has a splice that runs into the wiring harness and goes who knows where, I haven't traced it down yet. This high voltage HEI I'm sure needs an independent power supply, I'm suspecting it may be a source of the problem. Question, should I run this new hot wire to the ignition switch or fuse block? Any other ideas about what might cause this problem? It also has a brand new fuel pump, fuel lines to the carb and Holley 770 Ultra Street Avenger carb. 6 psi fuel pressure and the fuel is showing half full in the bowl sight glasses.


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## allpawl66 (May 9, 2008)

Wire from original dist. is a resistor wire going to the ignition switch , must be removed and non resistor wire installed to operate correctly . Chase it and replace it .


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## geeteeohguy (Feb 2, 2008)

"I have a new DUI distributor, new wires, and NGK plugs gapped at .055 as recommended by DUI..." 
I have stock points distributors on both of my GTO's, as I have in all of my GTO's over the past 35 plus years and 100's of thousands of miles and simply don't have ignition problems. .055" plug gap? _REALLY_? There is no performance gain to be had with aftermarket super duper ignition systems, only lack of maintenance. (no points to change every 15k miles). That said, I'd much rather change the points once every 5-10 years than be broken down regularly, which seems to be pretty common with the Chinese aftermarket and USA aftermarket "upgraded' ignition systems. Most folks buy into this snake oil because they simply believe the hype. It's not true.


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## BearGFR (Aug 25, 2008)

The easiest way to get full power to your HEI without having to demolish your existing wiring harness is to do what I did (I stole the idea from Instg8er I think). Go down to your local auto parts store and buy a generic headlight relay. Specific kind doesn't matter. Mount it on the firewall somewhere convenient, then use the original ignition wire to turn the relay on (the other terminal on this relay circuit goes to ground). On the "big" side of the relay, wire one side directly to your battery or some other known full, un-inhibited fat 12v source --- the other side goes to your HEI input. Viola - you're now feeding the HEI all the power it could ever want and you didn't have to mess up your original harness to do it.

Bear


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## kilkm68 (May 5, 2011)

Thanks for the replies. I suspected the other wire was s resistor wire. I disconnected and am going to run a new wire to a switched terminal on the fuse block. This car has a M&H wiring harness in it, but trying to figure out how the previous owner sliced and diced it is a nightmare. I'll probably be better off pulling the dash and starting over, winter project, I'll probably be puttting the car away for the winter in another month or so. My overdrive transmission is out in NC now being rebuilt at extreme automatics, hopefully I'll get it back next week and get it running so we can enjoy a road trip or two as the fall colors begin.


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## gjones (Oct 8, 2012)

*Neutral zone*

Don't overlook the neutral safety switch. These can loose contact sporadically, can be out of adjustment slightly, and overheat and melt the wires. (Had to fix all that on the Lemans-my switch was separating down the middle, and that major purple wire got hot at some point and melted the casing at both ends-even melted the plastic block connector! LOTS of resistance if she's out of whack!).


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## Rukee (Feb 8, 2007)

gjones said:


> Don't overlook the neutral safety switch. These can loose contact sporadically, can be out of adjustment slightly, and overheat and melt the wires. (Had to fix all that on the Lemans-my switch was separating down the middle, and that major purple wire got hot at some point and melted the casing at both ends-even melted the plastic block connector! LOTS of resistance if she's out of whack!).


Right, but that switch feeds the starter, not the distributor.


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## kilkm68 (May 5, 2011)

I have the console out right now installing a new shift cable. I'll make sure all the connections are clean and tight. I just installed a high torque mini started right before this problem started, maybe there's a connection, thanks for the tip!


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## gjones (Oct 8, 2012)

Sorry Kilkm. Just meant as long as the transmission is out, would be a good time to assess the n/sw and its wires.


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