# Hidden Headlight Help



## Flyboy (Sep 21, 2009)

Anyone out there that could advise on how to diagnose hidden headlights on my 69 GTO? Shut the car down with lights on. I pulled the doors up by hand, which I had done a time or two before (I know, stupid and lazy). Now both doors work fine opening, but neither make any attempt at closing. If I close by hand, they start drooping. I have good vacuum out of carb, traced all lines from the headlight switch to the actuators, all of which are relatively new. I doubt both actuators would go at same time, and with both only opening and not closing. I am leaning toward headlight switch, but no idea how to diagnose. Does anyone out there have any suggestions? I hate to start swapping parts to figure it out. Thanks


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## Rukee (Feb 8, 2007)

Not familiar with those, does it use vacuum to open and vacuum to close the doors? Or just to close and without vacuum they open by themselves?


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## 68_Goat (Nov 7, 2008)

Given that the system is tee'd to both actuators, if one is leaking, neither will work if losing vacuum through the leaky one. Possibly pulling closed manually popped a seal out of one of the actuators?? They're notorious for leaky seals anyway. Pull the dust boots off of the actuator shafts, and check the seals for integrity first. The tension springs should keep them from drooping, as once they go "over center", they should hold the doors closed. Top fitting on actuator closes, bottom fitting opens. You could run a known vacuum source to each and try that as well which could rule in/out actuators.


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## Flyboy (Sep 21, 2009)

Rukee said:


> Not familiar with those, does it use vacuum to open and vacuum to close the doors? Or just to close and without vacuum they open by themselves?


They use vaccum both up and down. The headlight switch directs the vacuum source to the corresponding up/down side of the acuator.


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## Flyboy (Sep 21, 2009)

68_Goat said:


> Given that the system is tee'd to both actuators, if one is leaking, neither will work if losing vacuum through the leaky one. Possibly pulling closed manually popped a seal out of one of the actuators?? They're notorious for leaky seals anyway. Pull the dust boots off of the actuator shafts, and check the seals for integrity first. The tension springs should keep them from drooping, as once they go "over center", they should hold the doors closed. Top fitting on actuator closes, bottom fitting opens. You could run a known vacuum source to each and try that as well which could rule in/out actuators.


Great info, thanks. Sounds like you have some experience. I probably did exactly what you said. To be sure I will run the vacuum direct from the carb to the acuator. You are the first one that could tell me which fitting closes or opens. Thanks for your help, will let you know how I make out.


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## Flyboy (Sep 21, 2009)

*on the money*



Flyboy said:


> Great info, thanks. Sounds like you have some experience. I probably did exactly what you said. To be sure I will run the vacuum direct from the carb to the acuator. You are the first one that could tell me which fitting closes or opens. Thanks for your help, will let you know how I make out.


You were right on the money Jimmy. I pulled the boots, both top seals had popped of. Put them back in place and the headlight doors work like new. Thanks for the help, know your stuff!


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## 68_Goat (Nov 7, 2008)

Glad I could be of some help!


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