# Cam identity



## 68GTOLSX (Nov 16, 2013)

I've most of my block stripped now and slid the cam out I was hoping for a better ID stamped on it. # 97002 MP

I found a very nice looking cam with nice lifters and double roller, look very newish. There are flat tappet.


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## Icefan71 (Apr 7, 2011)

I had a replacement cam in my 350 that I had no info on. I got some #'s on the rear face of it and did a google search. Turned out to be a Sealed Power cam. I was able to get the specs off their website. If you got that # from the front or rear face, try looking that # on google or even try different cam makers.


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## GoatGuru (Oct 1, 2013)

68GTOLSX said:


> I've most of my block stripped now and slid the cam out I was hoping for a better ID stamped on it. # 97002 MP
> 
> I found a very nice looking cam with nice lifters and double roller, look very newish. There are flat tappet.


Do NOT USE A USED cam. My 2cents worth, Unless you took it out and have the lifters in the right place, other wise cam and lifter's will be no good. The lifters needs to go back onto same lobe as it was before removing, Will cause the cam and lifter's to wear faster or lobe and lifter's to chip But you can use new lifter's with the old cam. Never reuse a old timing chain either. Get a new one from Melling they have cams & lifters and for a great price< Butler performance use's them. E-bay has the cam lifter set from melling for $159.00 from maddoggperformance if I remember correctly, and a cloyes true roller timeing chain with a 3 way adjustable key for 65.00. Comp cam has a DBl roller chain for around the same price so $224.00 well spent in a motor that is not cheap to rebuild Insurance other wise. My 2 cents And its new.. 
, My brother has the stage II 278/284 H RV cam awesome low end torque. and has a nice choppy Idle you can use it with stock converter and regular every day gears. his is in a 73 firebird. And go with a Hydraulic cam and lifters, My opinion less maintenance Your not always adjusting the valve lash as with a solid, My Opinion Solid cam's are drag race only to me. every one has there opinion, My friend with a 1965 tri-power 389 he runs a solid cam and says he gets more torque out of it then a Hyd, cam. So each his own.
REMEMBER . . . the first 10 minutes are the most important in a new camshaft's life. Tests have shown that if there is no spalling or metal pick up during the first 10 minutes to one hour of operation, the cam will last a normal life. After you have completed the "break-in," immediately change oil and filter. Regularly maintain your engine, its oil and filter, and valve lash adjustment. Your reward will be an engine that delivers maximum horsepower and performance. hope this helps I think MP is a melling cam any ways But cant find the number. You can call NAPA and have them cross reference the part number .....Travis


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