# aftermarket hoods



## 66242 (Mar 1, 2015)

Not sure whether to use/repair my 66 hood or not, anyone use an aftermarket GTO hood and how did it fit? What was the quality? And, would you buy that hood again if needed?
Thanks.


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## ibarbuckle (Feb 24, 2014)

All of the aftermarket sheetmetal I have used has been thin, the wrong size, and wavy. It does have two saving graces: it's coated in epoxy, and it's cheap. But either aftermarket or original, you're going to end up working on the piece.


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## rickm (Feb 8, 2012)

an original hood scoop insert usually will not fit right with an aftermarket hood n visa-versa. you would have to buy a aftermarket insert also.


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## frankrp (Jan 19, 2015)

*Aftermarket OK this time*

I put one of those ADEALS ebay hoods on my 68 and its perfect.Not a wave,or any imperfection at all and perfectly square same weight as the original... maybe I got lucky


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## GTO70455 (Feb 10, 2009)

Got a aftermarket hood for my 1970 GTO from Ames and it was perfect. No fitment problems!


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## 66242 (Mar 1, 2015)

Sounds like mixed reviews, I'd hate to take a 400.00 chance on a bad fit.
Thanks, Jay


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## FMFC motorsports (Mar 21, 2015)

I have a stock 66 in great shape if interested?


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## geeteeohguy (Feb 2, 2008)

The '65-'67 aftermarket hoods are the ones with issues. The area around the scoop is not the same, as stated, and the scoop bulge is not the same shape around the edges where it meets the hood. Better off with a used original part if it's a '65--'67 goat.


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## Pinion head (Jan 3, 2015)

Originall '68, and '69-70 GTO hoods also have differences from the repro. 
'68 hoods have differences in the inner structure, as were not designed to fold up in a frontal collision. instead, the rear corners of original 68 hoods often went back into the windshield. 

'69 hoods had revised understructure, so they would fold up, and are separated into standard hoods and RA versions. Original production '69-70 RA hoods with factory hood tachs originally had a piece of the understructure trimmed by a portable hydraulic sheer. This small area was removed in one continous clamping of the tool...not the easiest to replicate with a saw or grinder if restoring a high point car, but it can be done. Last, have not ck'ed a one fits all "68-70" repro GTO hood in some time, but for at least the first 10 years of production, the ironing board center area of the repro hood was not as defined as an original or even an NOS '70 hood, and the repro had to have filler work and careful sanding to get it close.


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## crustysack (Oct 5, 2008)

my aftermarket 65 hood had really good fitment, it was wavy and needed pro paint attention( just like an original) but the edges where fine and it bolted right in. I did buy a repo insert and had zero problems


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## bondobill (Oct 24, 2011)

We purchased a after market hood from a well known west coast supplier a couple years back for my sons 68 GTO. :cuss:

When I ordered it I asked them what the return rate was on the hood.
I was told that they had only 1 returned out of over 400 ordered. :suspicious:

On first inspection we noticed it had some ....as they call it waves......in it.
I figured with a little bit of work we could make it look good, after close to 20hours of filling and blocking.......damn was I wrong.

Besides the wavy outer skin, the adhesive between the inner supports and the outer skin had separated and the O.E. hood scoops didn't fit. 
After we addressed these issues we installed it on the car prior to painting to make sure it fit and it lined up pretty darn nice......or at least we thought so.

We painted the car in pieces, fenders. doors, hood and bumper off.
After installing and aligning the painted front end sheet metal we had another rude awakening with the after "crapper" hood.
Upon installing the hood to fender jam rubber bumpers, we found that the hood didn't have the right curvature on the jam to the fenders. After installing the 4 bumpers in the fender jams the hood sat up off the fenders better then a 1/4". We ended up trimming down the rubber bumpers to darn near nothing before the hood would sit down right.

If you can find a savable o.e hood go for it.


Bill


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## Anthonystevens0819 (Mar 23, 2015)

I got a after market hood for my 69 gto from opgi and it was great everything I get from is real good. Quality But there pricey


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## 66242 (Mar 1, 2015)

I don't know why they go to the trouble of making these parts when the fit is so bad. but then again $$$ talks. It's funny patch panels are decent and the rest I've just heard people complain about,hoods and fenders mainly.


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## rlslavik (Jun 21, 2014)

I bought a set of fenders for my 68 from Muscle car metal. Had to grind the fire out of them to drop the rear 3/4 of an inch to look right with the doors.
When all looked correct, I bought a new hood - same place.
The rear curve at the glass is more pronounced than the - now modified - fenders.
The curve along the length is humped too much as well.

Not sure WHAT I intened to do at this point.
I really hate the thought of another set of fenders but I am refusing to modify the hood at this point.

Fun fun fun.


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## 66242 (Mar 1, 2015)

So has anyone complained to the parts suppliers about the poor quality?


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## rlslavik (Jun 21, 2014)

One of my fenders arrived dented from Muscle Car Metal.
I called them, they sent a new one free of charge
and let me keep the old one.
Can't complain about that.

Qualitywise, they seem a LOT like the originals.
Every weld, hole, bend was identical as far as I could tell when I 
first compared them. 

Knowing any long run in a fender is going to change when shims etc are added
it was impossible for me to see what layed ahead.

No, haven't told them about it since those things COULD be more correct than my original, bashed up stuff.

Fitting them to my previously bondo baby car is the issue.
I'm no pro.
I feel it is possible a pro could have made it look easy...

Shims and adjustments make a loooot of difference in fit.


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## mytmouz (Mar 20, 2015)

We shall see on the hood fitment. The one I am working on (a 1966 GTO) has such a thrashed original hood that there is no saving it. Got a Dynacorn on the way now... Wish me luck...


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## bobby326 (Dec 13, 2009)

I got one from ames and it is exactly like they desctibed it in the catolog. Two indentations right at the bace of the scoop. Any hood id going to need bodywork anyway. Think it eas only $389 do not that bad. Thst will prob go on my 65 tempest. On my 67 lemans this is what i fid. i had a trashed gto hood so i cut out the scoop, bought a really nice tempedt hood at a swsp meet gor $20. The welded in the scoop. Total cost $20 for hood and prob $50 for bodywork products and lots of time


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## 66242 (Mar 1, 2015)

mytmouz said:


> We shall see on the hood fitment. The one I am working on (a 1966 GTO) has such a thrashed original hood that there is no saving it. Got a Dynacorn on the way now... Wish me luck...


Let us know how it works out.


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## mytmouz (Mar 20, 2015)

66242 said:


> Let us know how it works out.


Actually pretty pleased with it. A good coat of high build and I believe it will be ready to go out of the box...


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