# Driveshaft Source ?



## oldskool (Apr 26, 2015)

I was gonna have my Vent 2 driveshaft cut down to put in my '68 Bird. But it turns out that the vent had a long tail TH400, so the shaft is already too short. 

The best price I've found, so far, for a new shaft, is a custom Strange shaft, thru Summit, for $250, without a yoke. That makes the total price over $300. 

Strange Chromoly Fully Assembled Driveshafts U1699 - Free Shipping on Orders Over $99 at Summit Racing

I'm on a real low budget, so does anybody know where I can buy a complete custom shaft. for less than $300, shipped ? Thanks !


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## 1968gto421 (Mar 28, 2014)

Have you checked around for companies in your area that make driveshafts, frequently for industrial use but also knowledgeable about automotive applications. We have several in our area so I assume these businesses exist in many other areas. As an example, here are the ones around here that local street rod builders use:

Drive Shaft & Clutch Solutions - Rexnord

Carolina Driveline: Driveshafts Speed Balanced Steel and Aluminum

Hope this is of some help.


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## oldskool (Apr 26, 2015)

*Local Driveshaft Builders*

"Have you checked around for companies in your area that make driveshafts..."


Yeah, we live near a small rural town. There is a welding shop that will shorten a car shaft. But can't balance.

The nearest shaft builders, that I am aware of, are in Monroe, LA--about 50 miles away. They do mostly truck stuff. I believe one is named Consolidated Truck Parts, and the other is Monroe Clutch & Driveshaft.

Consolidated has a website, but MC&D don't. I Emailed Consolidated to find out if they mess with small car shafts. I'll have to call MC&D.


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## 1968gto421 (Mar 28, 2014)

Best of luck with the driveshaft---hopefully one of those shops can do quality work well within your budget. (Budget problems have really slowed down my GTO getting back on the road---AAARRRGH!)


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## oldskool (Apr 26, 2015)

Yeah, I asked a Pontiac friend, who lives in Monroe. He said that Consolidated Truck Parts is the place to go. So, if nothing better turns up, I'll make an early appointment with them, to have my short shaft re-tubed, while I'm in town.

That way I'll have 1 trip to Monroe, but no shipping charges. And, since gas is now below $1.50 per gal here, the trip won't cost much. 

WOW ! I just got a shock. I decided to call Consolidated and get a quote. Their balancer isn't working right now. But they will put my ends onto a new tube for between $225 & $250. 

So that means I could buy a Strange, balanced chromoly shaft, with joints, thru Summit for about the same price as getting my shaft re-tubed at the Truck place.  That's a no brainer.


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## Pinion head (Jan 3, 2015)

At what point does one need a larger diam chrome moly driveshaft? Have had shortened dozens of stock driveshafts to mate up with 8.5 A body rear swaps and many have held up fine into the low 11's on cars that were at the strip 2-3 weekends a month during the season. Eventually, one will run across a heavy car that's hitting the tires real hard and it will need an expensive custom shaft. The first time ever experienced this was with customers GS clone running a healthy plate system, 3850 lb car, dipping into the 10's with spray.

On the Ventura II shafts, I believe theyre going to be in the 50-51" range center to center, as the Ventura's and '68+ Novas had a 3" longer wheelbase than the early F body's. '68-72 V8 2door A body driveshafts all typically measure in the 54-56" length center to center. On the front of your '72-74 Ventura driveshaft, if it's stock, should have small 1310 ujoints. Most Chebby 12 bolts had those as well. There are HD 1310 ujoints avail with no grease zerts. 

Want me to look at the whse in the driveshaft barrels, to see if have a clean driveshaft w 1310 ends thats in that length range, let me know.


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## oldskool (Apr 26, 2015)

Thanks pinion head. But, I can go over to my engine guy's shop and dig thru his DS pile, for an old shaft. I gave him all my Pontiac stuff, when I sold my shop. So, There are probably more than 1 that will work. And it'll be free. 

I don't need a chromoly shaft. But I was just pointing out that I could buy one of those for about what the truck place wanted, just to transfer my ends to a new tube. 

Freight on a shaft appears to be between $25 & $35, according to the shipping estimates I've found. I wouldn't wanna pay that for a 40 year old shaft, then pay to have it shortened. 

I'd prefer to pay my neighbor a little more for a new tube. But, he can't balance it. May not even need balancing. I'll only be turning maybe 5500rpm max. 

The next option is a balanced shaft, with ends, but no joints, for about $150. These PST shafts come in lots of pre-welded lengths, and are rated to 700hp. 

http://www.carid.com/pst/performance-transmission-parts-mpn-300495.html

http://precisionshafttechnologies.carshopinc.com/product_info.php/products_id/111459/300505

[ame]http://www.amazon.com/Precision-Shaft-Technologies-300495-DRIVESHAFT/dp/B003TQ25ZA/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1456196083&sr=1-1-fkmr0&keywords=pst+300495[/ame]


[ame]http://www.amazon.com/Precision-Shaft-Technologies-300505-DRIVESHAFT/dp/B003TQ29M4/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1456196281&sr=1-1-fkmr0&keywords=pst+300505[/ame]


I figure the conversion joints are about $50 for a pair. So, I should be able to use my slip yoke and wind up with a new balanced shaft, with new joints, for about $200 total. I can live with that. 

Or, how about a painted shaft, with 1310 joints for both ends, for under $150 shipped. That sounds even better. 

http://www.carid.com/pst/steel-driveshaft-48-long-3-diameter-mpn-310480.html

Anybody ever buy anything from CARiD.com ? When I Googled reviews, some said they were great, and some had nothing but bad to say about 'em. I've noticed that they usually have the best price + free shipping on lots of parts I Google. But lots of reviews say they sell stuff that is not in stock, and it's a hassle to get credit back on the item.


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## oldskool (Apr 26, 2015)

OK, I'm still diggin around for the best deal on a driveshaft. The best I've come up with so far, is a prefab, painted, balanced, PST shaft, with 1310 joints, but no slip yoke, for about $150. Then I think I'll probably have to buy a 1310/1330 conversion U-joint, for my slip yoke, since I think it is a Pontiac yoke, with a 1330 joint.

But, if this deal is for real, by using my yoke, I think I can have a nice balanced, painted shaft, for under $200. If it turns out that one of these prefab lengths will work, this may be about as good as I can do, on my budget. 

I haven't done any precise measuring yet, but these are available in lots of lengths, and thru several sellers. 

PST® 310480 - Steel Driveshaft, 48" Long, 3" OD

PST 310480 Steel Driveshaft 48" Long 3" OD | eBay

Precision Shaft Technologies 310480 Steel Driveshaft 48inLong 3in Dia. | Autoplicity

[ame]http://www.amazon.com/Precision-Shaft-Technologies-310480-DRIVESHAFT/dp/B003TQ7UQO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1456206186&sr=8-1&keywords=precision+shaft+technologies++310480[/ame]


I've gone to the PST site, but I haven't found these shafts even listed. The closest I found are custom length, with slip yoke, for $299 + shipping. 

http://pstds.com/shop/custom-driveshafts/3x-083-dom-steel-shaft/

http://pstds.com/shop/drag-shafts/3-x083-drag-race-1020-dom-steel-shaft/

OK, I called PST this morning. The guy said that I could buy those shafts cheaper, from some of the vendors, instead of direct. He also said that they do not recommend those 1310/1330 conversion joints, for racing, because they are greasable joints, which are not as strong as the solid joints.

But, I've raced with lots of greasable joints--never had a problem or broke a shaft or joint. So, for my 455 footbraker, which will only have maybe 400hp & 500ft lbs of torque, do ya'll think I'd be in any danger of breaking a greasable joint ?

If so, I'll try to find a Chevy slip yoke, which uses the 1310 solid joint.


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