# Stall converter



## 69 237 (Feb 18, 2018)

I'm thinking of adding a stall to my th400. Engine is an Pontiac 350, 040" over, 9:1 compression, with a 270/276 212/220 @0.050" 0.440"/0.450" cam. The rear gears are 2.78:1. The manifold vacuum is 14.5inhg at 650rpm in drive.

I feel like the engine lugs up hills at slower speeds and I feel like I just dont get off the line performance like it should. The most apparent thing to me to help this is gear ratio and stall speed. Overhauling the rear end is a little too much for the current budget, but a stall converter is more practical.

TCI recommended a 2000rpm stall. I'm curious what the stock stall speed is for a th400 that orginally came with a 350 2barrel? 2000rpm stall seems decent for my gears and goal for the car. I hope to have a cruiser that still has good acceleration. My only concern is if a 2000rpm stall would even be that much of a change to warrant the new stall.


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## PontiacJim (Dec 29, 2012)

Stock stall is around 1800 RPM's, so 2000 RPM's would be a waste of money in my opinion.

I would go with a 2500 RPM stall, but what is called a "tight" converter versus a "loose" converter for street application. You won't get a lot of slip with normal/moderate driving, but it will do its thing when you hit the gas. 

I am also going to say your cam is a little too big on duration for the 9.1 compression and 350 cubes. You are giving up engine bottom end right from the get-go and my guess is that it picks up in the mid-to-upper RPM's. So the cam plus the 2.78 gearing is a double negative for any kind of low end performance.

That said, the 2500RPM converter will better match the cam and put the engine into the cam's better power range.

Do you still use the 2 Bbl carb? I can't recall what you had, but wasn't it a 4-Bbl? You want to get air/fuel velocity up to get the engine to respond. Too big of a carb and wrong intake choice will also kill the bottom end. For your application, you definitely want a 180 factory style intake, not an open plenum 360 design. I believe the Edlebrock Performer has a slightly smaller intake runner size than the other intakes. The smaller runners will develop higher velocity of the air/fuel mixture for a more responsive engine feel. The Q-jet with its small primaries and large vacuum secondaries is why they make a good choice. But, if you go Edlebrock AFB, no bigger than 600 CFM.


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## 69 237 (Feb 18, 2018)

I currently have a QJet, rebuilt using cliffs book, suggestions, and parts. I also am using a stock 4barrel manifold. 

I realize a little is left on the table with the cam combo and compression. I didnt want to leave anything on table, otherwise I would have just picked up a stock used engine. Just trying to see if there anything I can do to reasonably have the most of both worlds. 

You are right on, the car really wakes up around 2500rpm. I wish there was a way to use the 2 series carrier to get 3.42 or 3.55 rear gears..


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## PontiacJim (Dec 29, 2012)

Go with the converter for now. My '73 Fury has the low 8.4 compression 2 bbl 360 and 2.76 gears. With the 360CI option, the factory stall converter is 2,500 RPM's. Other engine combo's used the 2,000 stall converter. As heavy as that land barge is, you would be surprised how peppy it takes off from a red light with the converter and the 2.76 gearing. The only complaint is that it is a "loose" converter so I have to give it gas to get the engine to rev a bit to get the car rolling on inclines or hills. A "tight" 2,500 stall will be what I go with when I do a rebuild on the engine. I like the 2,500 stall and the 2.76 gears as I can cruise at 70-80 MPH with ease and the car isn't even breathing hard. At 100 MPH, still plenty of pedal left, but not enough balls left to push it any higher - at least until I get the sway bars and HD torsion bars, ala police car. LOL


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## 69 237 (Feb 18, 2018)

I believe it! Sounds like a nice ride.

Do you have recommendations for the tight stall?

I also have to read up on what is needed for the swap and what needs to be replaced. Not too sure of the condition of my trans but I've replaced the filter, fluid stays red, it pulls well, shifts firm, so I want to leave it be. It leaks a bit, but really dont want to mess with what ain't really broken.


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## PontiacJim (Dec 29, 2012)

I don't have a lot of experience over the years with torque converters as many of my cars were manual and/or I ran what I had if automatics - just installed shift kits/trans coolers.

The converter I went with on my brothers car, and which I will use when ready, came from Edge Racing Converters. Here is what they show for the TH400: TH400 : Edge Racing Converters, More Horsepower with More Torque Guaranteed!

Went with the "Mild Street" on my brother's car. When you click on it, it has a form you will fill out that helps them to set-up the converter for your needs.

You can check around for others, but I think the price is good as well.


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## Lemans guy (Oct 14, 2014)

Coan racing is another torque converter source in Kokomo Indiana, been to their plant they build the converters, Coan invented the trans brake. They have a Pontiac street torque converter 2400 stall, real good.

Also Performance Torque Converters (PTC) in Muscles Shoals Alabama builds converters, give them a call, they will build a first rate one as well and great prices too.

so PJ gave you one and here’s two more , good luck!


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## 69 237 (Feb 18, 2018)

Thank you both for the suggestions! Much appreciated!

I had another thought. Do you think I should start with modifying the governor or does it not have an affect on shift points other than WOT? I have the classic stock BOP Th400 shifting through gears super quick with a WOT limit of 4200rpm. Also not sure if I would need to that recalibrate after a torque converter swap.


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## Lemans guy (Oct 14, 2014)

Not a trans guy, but the governor does come into play under aggressive throttle not just WOT,...very light throttle uses the vacumn modulator....as for the TC question talk to someone Like Kenny at PCT, they are super helpful and will not take advantage of you.

they build converters for the racers and will know the answers...


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## Lemans guy (Oct 14, 2014)

Also those governors are easy to change the weights, lots of kits out there, you can swap the weights and try it out....not hard just have to get underneath...


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## 69 237 (Feb 18, 2018)

Sounds good Lemans guy. I have the kit from TCI. I've just been lining out the timing and carb so I haven't got around to it yet. 90% there now if I can get rid of the nozzle drip when super heat soaked (likely need new pump). 

I'll mess with the governor and see of it helps change shift points where it wont be lugging around anyways.


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## Lemans guy (Oct 14, 2014)

Get your timing right as well, what kind of distributor are you running?


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## 69 237 (Feb 18, 2018)

Timing should be good. New DUI distributor 15deg initial with 20 mechanical for a total of 35deg. 13 vacuum advance hooked to manifold vacuum.


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## Lemans guy (Oct 14, 2014)

that"s great you are good to go on that!


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## 69 237 (Feb 18, 2018)

I haven't fired on this yet. I'm still debating gear swap or torque converter. I feel like the torque converter is likely the easiest/economical option as I just need to get revs past 1800-2000rpm to get going good.

If I change the torque converter is there concern with cruise below stall speed, or is that a non issue with a good cooler?


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## PontiacJim (Dec 29, 2012)

Non-issue if you get a "tight" stall converter versus a "loose" stall converter. A trans cooler is always a good idea, but a "tight" stall does not generate the heat that a loose converter does.. My '73 Fury has a factory 2,500 stall converter as that is how they offered the car with the 360CI and 727 torqueflite option, but it is a "loose" stall, so it just take a little gas to get RPM's slightly up and get the car rolling. Not the best for gas mileage. It does not have a trans cooler and works fine.


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## Mine'sa66 (Oct 30, 2019)

69 237 said:


> I haven't fired on this yet. I'm still debating gear swap or torque converter. I feel like the torque converter is likely the easiest/economical option as I just need to get revs past 1800-2000rpm to get going good.
> 
> If I change the torque converter is there concern with cruise below stall speed, or is that a non issue with a good cooler?


Just read through the whole thread. I would change the gears. That is going to do for you what you are wanting done.
Putting that higher stall convertor doesn't come without disadvantages. "Cruising" driveability can suffer. Particularly when you say 'lugging up hills". You'll probably not care for how a high stall converter will help that, but you'll love how it feels if you stiffen up the ratio. Off the line, sure, you can overcome tall gears with a converter. Is that what you mostly do with the car?
As far as money goes, what's the rear now? Stock? 12-bolt? Something else?
Buying a quality converter or new gears and paying to have them put in isn't going to be dramatically different pricewise. If the rear isn't worth/can't handle just a gear swap then yeah, it gets a little pricey. But, that's what you really need.


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## 69 237 (Feb 18, 2018)

I currently have the stock 8.2 rear with 2.78 gears. If I change gears I think I'm going for 3.42s or 3.55s. That would require a carrier, gears, rebuild kit, fluid, etc. Costs looking like 850+ for decent parts alone. Also looking to do it myself to save some cash.

The converters looking like it would be half that cost right now..


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## Mine'sa66 (Oct 30, 2019)

69 237 said:


> I currently have the stock 8.2 rear with 2.78 gears. If I change gears I think I'm going for 3.42s or 3.55s. That would require a carrier, gears, rebuild kit, fluid, etc. Costs looking like 850+ for decent parts alone. Also looking to do it myself to save some cash.
> 
> The converters looking like it would be half that cost right now..


I\m assuming it's a posi, yes? If so that math is pretty good. 3.42-3.55 is going to have things wound up pretty tightly in an automatic. I hear you on the price, but I'd think of it this way. If you do the converter, it'sd not really going to be what you want. Then you'll do the gears and you'll have spent both monies. It will be great, but spendy. Do the gears first and I'll wager you'll forget about the converter for a while. Now you have some agonizing to do. What gear ratio? You can pick anything  I just went through it. Had a 12 bolt built for my '66 GTO with the same TH400. I went with 3.31s. Plenty of gear. Really think through where/when you drive. Punch your data into one of the online RPM calculators and see what you'll be spinning at speed.


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## PontiacJim (Dec 29, 2012)

Do the converter first. My '73 Fury 4,000 pound plus boat has 2.71 gears. The higher stall converter does not hurt driveability. The higher stall makes it much more fun to drive as it pulls off fast at any red light or stop. I can cruise at 80 MPH all day long keeping up with local traffic and the engine is not even breathing hard. The 3.42 or 3.55's will hurt driveability because you will be revving the engine higher ALL the time throughout the entire RPM range. You may want to use one of the tire/gear ratio,RPM/MPH calculators just to see what you speed-to-RPM's will be. If all you do is local driving, then step up to 3.55's. If you do any highway driving, keep what you have and go with the converter first. If by chance you think you want more gear, then add that later. The more inexpensive route, and easiest, will be the converter.

I gave you all the info needed, so I will not repeat it. It ultimately is your call and your money/time.


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## Old Man Taylor (May 9, 2011)

I concur with PontiacJim. Continental used to provide what was called "The Jim Hand Converter". The reason was that Jim Hand used it in his 4200 pound station wagon. He got it into the mid 11's with a 455 that used factory parts. IIRC it is a 13" that flash stalls to about 3000, but it is tight under light loads. The last owner of Continental died and if it is still in business it would be under a different name. The old address and phone numbers were 730 Centinela Ave, Inglewood CA 310-674-1072. Be aware that stall speeds are proportional to engine torque. One that stalls at 3000 in a 455 would stall at about 2300 in a 350.


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## Mine'sa66 (Oct 30, 2019)

As is the case so often in this field, the OP has been given conflicting advice. The last thing I want to do is create an argument nor disrespect anybody's opinion in any way.
I'm going to clarify my opinion and reasons why so that others may make informed decisions.
When I say "driveablity issues" with high stall converters, I don't mean it doesn't work or there are performance issues. I'm using that term in the "retail car repair world" meaning. I'm talking the "feel" of it.The OP doesn't have a heavy station wagon that he wants to run 11's with. Yeah, tall gears, tiny converter, that's a hot drag setup. How's it around town? I have a lot of hours behind the wheel of cars with high stall converters in everyday driving, not by choice. Yeah, still fast, but not enjoyable. Not that the 2500 we're discussing here is high stall, but the concept is the same. 
You're cruising around town, anytime you get off the gas and unload the trans, which in your heavy car with tall gears you do a lot, when you get back on the gas, you have to spin that converter back up. 
It's not a great feel.
Most people who drive a mucsle car around on the street want the feel of your right foot is directly connected to the rear wheels....a big V8 with short gears.
That's the feel most people want.
Which brings me to the advice I really want to stress.
Before you spend a cent, you need to soul search what you really do or want to do with the car.
If you need the car to go 100 on the highway, then you want the gears you have. The only way you're getting it off the line is with a higher stall converter so that's the way to go.
If you drive like most, you're probably on surface streets going 35-65 the bulk of the time. In that circumstance? No question, lower gears, "regular" converter is the way to go.
Drag racer? You're getting both so save up.
I would not put 3.42 or 3.55. Too much.
You put 3.23's in there with a stock converter and you will have the muscle car you want.


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## PontiacJim (Dec 29, 2012)

Your opinion counts *Mine's* and you are not offending anyone. I think if you had driven a "tight" converter, you may understand. I get what you are saying. But, I also feel you are speaking of higher powered cars and higher stall converters. I also understand, as what we used to to in our youth, was the high stall high slip converters in small block Chevy's that spun 8,000 RPM's. The high stall converter didn't really move the car until you hit the pedal and RPM's came up to 2,500 or so RPM's and it moved. Always knew these cars because the engine was racing and the car wasn't moving very fast - inspite of the 4.11 and 4.56 gears they had. They were also needed because the big cam idled much higher and with the stock converter you would have to keep your foot on the brake to keep the car from rolling - if it did not stall out.

The "tight" converter in my brother's 360 has a difference of 200 RPM's from letting off the gas, like coasting, to applying pedal pressure to get the car moving part throttle. You do not mash the pedal down while cruising. If you take off from a stop, it does not zing up to 2,500 before moving. If you put it to the floor, then indeed the converter will spike right up to 2,500 RPM. That is the design of a "tight" converter, less slip at moderate pedal pressure but has the capabilities to zing right up to 2,500 RPM's and put the engine in its lower power band.

Maybe "stall" is the wrong term here? Maybe I should be using "flash stall." A torque converter’s *flash stall* is typically the most accurate rating, versus a *footbrake stall* that is dependent upon too many variables like brake type, pad/shoe conditons, tire size, engine torque, etc.. 

Here is a quote from Hughes Performance for reference that may help, " There are three common methods to gauge the stall speed characteristics of a torque converter. Footbrake stall is the maximum amount of engine RPM that can be achieved in a forward operating range with the brakes fully applied to prevent the vehicle from moving forward. Footbrake stall is not an accurate method of determining the true maximum stall speed of a torque converter. Furthermore, advertised stall speed ratings are not based on footbrake stall speed. Maximum static stall is the maximum amount of engine RPM that can be achieved in a forward operating range without generating any driveshaft motion. Maximum static stall can only be verified in a transbrake-equipped vehicle. Flash stall is the amount of engine RPM (or flash) that is observed upon initial acceleration under load. The easiest method for checking flash stall is to drive the vehicle at low speed in second or third range and immediately transition to wide open throttle. The RPM level that the engine immediately accelerates to is the flash stall. Flash stall speed is one of the most useful ways to truly gauge the stall speed characteristics of a torque converter and how those characteristics will influence the acceleration potential of a vehicle. "

From another website on transmissions, "When choosing the stall speed that is right for your application, a rule of thumb is that the advertised stall speed will need to be at least 500 rpm higher than the beginning of the camshaft’s powerband. All aftermarket camshafts are delivered with a recommended RPM operating range. If your camshaft has an operating range of 1,500 through 6,500, you would select a torque with a minimum of 2,000 rpm stall. If choosing a torque converter for use in a street car, you might want to select a torque converter with a stall speed that is below the engine RPM at 70 mph, since this is where your engine will spend a lot of its time. "

I know that my brother's 360 cam is rated for 2,000-6,000 RPM's, so his converter of 2,500 RPM stall fits with the above statement. But again, with the "tight" converter having much less slippage than a "loose" converter, flash stall of 2,500 RPM's for the converter may be the better description?

Looking at gear swap, yep, more accleration, but raises the RPM. Pulled up a calculator just to plug in some numbers for a comparison. Using a 27" tire/automatic trans - 2.78 @ 55 = 1,974 RPM's, 70 = 2,487 RPM. 3.55 gear @ 55 = 2,495 RPM, 70 = 3,175 RPM. My opinion. I am not comfortable cruising longer distances at 70 MPH @ 3,175 RPM's. Keeping up with 75 MPH traffic on the highway (which is average here in Charlotte) puts the RPM at 3,402. But if I were driving local roads and they averaged 45 MPH, then with 3.55's the RPM would be 2,041 which would be great and car would be very responsive and be a good choice to drag race down the avenue where short full bore blasts would be made and not steady high speeds like on the highway.

Now if I went with 3.55's, then a flash stall of 2,000 RPM's may be far better? But now you are talking near stock torque converter stall and going aftermarket may be a bad investment as you are not really gaining much versus cost/time invested.

Not being arguementive, just my experiences. There is more than one way to skin a cat and it is always hard to juggle finances and get your best bank for your buck and hope you made the correct choice - even I do a lot of second guessing. And with a stock 170 HP 360 and A/C in the 4,000 + pound Fury, gas mileage won't be had even if I had an 1,800 RPM converter. The 2,500 stall gets it moving far more snappier with the 2.71 gears and aids in passing gear when I snap it to the floor. LOL The big block cars having more torque did indeed get the lower stall converters as stock.

If the decision is to go with a converter, then contacting a converter specialist or custom builder and providing all the needed info that they will require is the best way to get the correct converter for the application.


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## 1968gto421 (Mar 28, 2014)

Thanks you all for putting all this info in one thread I can save. All this info I've read before but not in one place. Thanks to the OP for starting this thread, much good info for him to consider.


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## BearGFR (Aug 25, 2008)

69 237 said:


> I currently have the stock 8.2 rear with 2.78 gears. If I change gears I think I'm going for 3.42s or 3.55s. That would require a carrier, gears, rebuild kit, fluid, etc. Costs looking like 850+ for decent parts alone. Also looking to do it myself to save some cash.
> 
> The converters looking like it would be half that cost right now..


Be careful. One thing you want to avoid is if the car ever sees highway use is having the converter still be "in stall range" when you're at cruising rpm on the highway. That means it'll still be slipping some and that can cause your transmission fluid to overheat.


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## 69 237 (Feb 18, 2018)

Thanks all for the input and discussion. I agree that there is a lot of good info to consider.

I have been looking at a COA-20211-4 Coan converter based on Coans suggestions. This is a 2400-2600rpm Bb chevy stall. I'm sure I'll be on the lower side of that stall, but that will be fine 

I've been curious about trans health in general so I checked line pressures. I wanted to be sure before adding a new converter. Got good readings with max pressure in low and second being 145psi or so.

I also tried to get a better feel for my stock stall. I stabbed the throttle at 20-25mph in second gear and got 1700rpms or so. It was difficult to tell too much before it kicked down.


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## PontiacJim (Dec 29, 2012)

That's about right for the factory stall. I have always read it is a bout 1800, so with a little less torque from the 350, you are in the ball park for factory.

If you go with the converter, let us know your opinion on it.


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## 69 237 (Feb 18, 2018)

I finally got everything in order and installed a new torque converter this weekend. I went with a PTC 10" converter that was rated at 2800-3200 per their recommendation. Install went great with the only hiccup being the flexplate bolts. The stock bolts were too thick and hit the torque converter body. I ended up going with ARP 4.0 cyl jeep flexplate bolts that were 0.200" thick instead of the ~0.330" stock bolts.

My engine is no longer labored and runs great. The stall speed is spot on as advertised. Its looser, but still takes off at decently low speeds at part throttle. Highway rpms are virtually unaffected by the change, but hills cause an increase of 200-300rpm as expected with a little more occurring at lower city speeds. 

Went for a 30min cruise and pan temps never got over 145F and stayed around 130F with only the stock cooler. Ill be watching temps very closely as it heats up outside to see if I need more cooler.

Thanks all for the help!


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## michaelfind (Dec 14, 2018)

I'm happy that you like it. I'm no expert, but I remember when a 10" converter was super loose and practically "race track only." I know technology has improved and I'm glad the change worked well for you. How are you monitoring your transmission temperature?


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## 69 237 (Feb 18, 2018)

Its definitely a trade off, but I don't think I can have it all with my setup!

Currently I have an autometer temp sending unit in the pan on the passenger side. I know there's lots of debate on where to put them. It seemed like the majority of sources, at least with what I saw, said pan would be the best indicator much like other fluids as they all have localized areas that are much hotter (converter for trans, bearings for oil, coolant at the heads, etc.). Open to other thoughts though.


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## Old Man Taylor (May 9, 2011)

Mine is in the pan.


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## michaelfind (Dec 14, 2018)

I think in the pan makes the most sense as well. I have not yet installed one, but I likely will in the near future. Thanks for your response. And you too, OMT.


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## NOS Only (Nov 14, 2017)

Temps in the pan are different than the line, temps in one line are different than temps in the other line and all those temps are different than the temps in the case and the case is where the clutch discs and plates are located which are the parts most affected by high temps and the highest temps are in the converter.

Speaking of converters..... There is no such thing as a "Stall Converter". It is called a torque converter and all torque converters have a stall speed.

Things that irk me in the car world...…

Bumber
Dizzy
and
Stall Converter


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## PontiacJim (Dec 29, 2012)

NOS Only said:


> Temps in the pan are different than the line, temps in one line are different than temps in the other line and all those temps are different than the temps in the case and the case is where the clutch discs and plates are located which are the parts most affected by high temps and the highest temps are in the converter.
> 
> Speaking of converters..... There is no such thing as a "Stall Converter". It is called a torque converter and all torque converters have a stall speed.
> 
> ...


Don't forget "Dual Zaust Pipes", "Hog's Head", "Pumpkin," and "I Got Beat."


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## 69 237 (Feb 18, 2018)

Read the thread... I referred to it as a torque converter or converter throughout. Title of the thread was for context. Thanks again for the help.


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## 67ventwindow (Mar 3, 2020)

No worries. Could be worse, could be forced to deal with the government and their nonsensical acronyms everyday.


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## BearGFR (Aug 25, 2008)

Old Man Taylor said:


> Mine is in the pan.





michaelfind said:


> I think in the pan makes the most sense as well. I have not yet installed one, but I likely will in the near future. Thanks for your response. And you too, OMT.


I put mine in the line coming out of the converter and going to the the cooler, thinking that would be the highest temp in the system. If it's ok there, then everywhere else ought to be also.
Dunno how valid that was, but that was my twisted logic.

Bear


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## 69 237 (Feb 18, 2018)

Its good logic. I wonder how temp sensors in OEM vehicles are routed. Im also curious if the data you see online regarding trans life related to trans fluid temp is measured as typical observed peak fluid temps during runs, or an average fluid temp (i.e. the sink/pan in this case). My guess would be the latter since that seems like more realistic for testing purposes that would be reported if that makes sense.


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## Old Man Taylor (May 9, 2011)

Modern cars have it in the valve body or the pan. I did it in the pan because that is where the oil is that the transmission uses - and it's an easy installation.


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## Rockinindian (Aug 5, 2021)

69 237 said:


> I'm thinking of adding a stall to my th400. Engine is an Pontiac 350, 040" over, 9:1 compression, with a 270/276 212/220 @0.050" 0.440"/0.450" cam. The rear gears are 2.78:1. The manifold vacuum is 14.5inhg at 650rpm in drive.
> 
> I feel like the engine lugs up hills at slower speeds and I feel like I just dont get off the line performance like it should. The most apparent thing to me to help this is gear ratio and stall speed. Overhauling the rear end is a little too much for the current budget, but a stall converter is more practical.
> 
> TCI recommended a 2000rpm stall. I'm curious what the stock stall speed is for a th400 that orginally came with a 350 2barrel? 2000rpm stall seems decent for my gears and goal for the car. I hope to have a cruiser that still has good acceleration. My only concern is if a 2000rpm stall would even be that much of a change to warrant the new stall.


a stall converter changes the rpm band on the motor at all ranges. Keep in mind that the stall converter WILL make your mileage go to nothing zero zip. 3-5 mpg if your lucky. But a ring & pinion with master bearing kit from rock auto online. $175-$275 for some 4.11 ratio set. Buy a caliper,a dial depth indicator at harbor frieght tools. Go to "youtube" for how to set depth and pinion adjust to center of ring video. You can do it with basic hand tools. Takes only 3 hrs taking your time. It's scary looking but actually super easy to do.


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## NOS Only (Nov 14, 2017)

FYI.....

ALL converters have a "stall" speed. Even stock ones.


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## Rockinindian (Aug 5, 2021)

Your car lugs up hills because LACK of power, gearing, weight . also your trans shifting points could need adjustment, T350 is adjusted at the carb linkage. T400 adjusted on the trans by pulling the vacuum line off the module inserting a small flat screwdriver inside it. If your shift points are too soon no matter which trans you have, you engine won't be using enough of it's power for the next higher gear. I would start with the simple fine tune adjustments before wiping out you mpg to nothing with a stall converter especially if it's your daily driver.


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## 69 237 (Feb 18, 2018)

I haven't noticed tanked gas milage at all since the change. My temps are also awesome when cruising.. Trans stays at 155F-160F in the heat of summer anywhere in my cruising range 2100-2400rpm. Itll get to 180F if it idles for a long period, but comes down quicky once I take off. 

Sure it spools up more at low speeds, but thats exactly what the engine needs. I think the DCR being on the low end would still result in a lack luster take off with reasonable gearing alone which is why I went with the stall first. 

I do plan to do rear gears eventually as I think that will really liven it up in combination with the new torque converter. I would like to do something a little sportier to make it worth my while. I have an open 3.36 carrier from a 68 firebird that I could replace the spider gears. The investment goes up a bit with limited slip and I'm curious if that would be asking for trouble with the 8.2 rear.


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## Rockinindian (Aug 5, 2021)

69 237 said:


> I haven't noticed tanked gas milage at all since the change. My temps are also awesome when cruising.. Trans stays at 155F-160F in the heat of summer anywhere in my cruising range 2100-2400rpm. Itll get to 180F if it idles for a long period, but comes down quicky once I take off.
> 
> Sure it spools up more at low speeds, but thats exactly what the engine needs. I think the DCR being on the low end would still result in a lack luster take off with reasonable gearing alone which is why I went with the stall first.
> 
> I do plan to do rear gears eventually as I think that will really liven it up in combination with the new torque converter. I would like to do something a little sportier to make it worth my while. I have an open 3.36 carrier from a 68 firebird that I could replace the spider gears. The investment goes up a bit with limited slip and I'm curious if that would be asking for trouble with the 8.2 rear.


I'm guessing your not using this as a daily driver. Mine was , after I put in a stall converter I got between 3-4 mpg


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## 69 237 (Feb 18, 2018)

Its not a daily driver. Im sure city milage has gown down a bit due to slippage when getting up to speed, but steady speed rpms are unchanged from the factory unit. Since I mainly cruise open roads, I dont think I've seen significant changes to milage.


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## 69 237 (Feb 18, 2018)

Reporting back in on the new converter. Im looking to add an external cooler since it gets a little warmer than I'd like in stop and go traffic after an hour on the highway in 90F heat. 

Would anyone be willing to share how they mounted their tranmission cooler if they have one? It seems like my options are to use the plastic ties that go through the cooler and radiator, or mount it using a bracket. Im not sure about the ties since it seems like it could cause damage. As far as brackets go, I have holes for the ac condesor bracket close on the passenger side, but not sure where the other side would be mounted.


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## PontiacJim (Dec 29, 2012)

69 237 said:


> Reporting back in on the new converter. Im looking to add an external cooler since it gets a little warmer than I'd like in stop and go traffic after an hour on the highway in 90F heat.
> 
> Would anyone be willing to share how they mounted their tranmission cooler if they have one? It seems like my options are to use the plastic ties that go through the cooler and radiator, or mount it using a bracket. Im not sure about the ties since it seems like it could cause damage. As far as brackets go, I have holes for the ac condesor bracket close on the passenger side, but not sure where the other side would be mounted.


I would not go with the mount on the radiator with the ties - it could actually block air flow through the radiator and the heat thrown off by the cooler has to go somewhere - guess where?

Can you find a spot in front of the radiator support and off to the side? I would fab up a bracket (s) to attach it.


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