# best body panels



## Face (Dec 22, 2008)

I'm sure this has been asked millions of times but what is the best manufacturer of replacement panels . I need new rear quarters, floor pans, and trunk floor. I have looked at goodmark, yearone, thepartsplace, and original parts group. Also need the entire front grille assembly.
Are some of the panels needing to be tweaked a little to fit, bad customer service, stuff like that.


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## johnnylightning03 (Nov 27, 2007)

i know you can get quarter skins and lower quarter patch panels, but new full quarters with sails are not available. year one and ames list them, but i had them on order with year one for 9 mos waiting before i cancelled them. as far as i know that they are still unavailable. my right quarter needed a lower patch and roof sail repair and left side the same plus some wheel opening repair. we replaced/ patched only what is necessary to keep originality. i know that is not your priority. used will probably require a purchase of another car or clip and will require a bunch of work. and nos doesnt exist. all the repop stuff seems the same to me. my trunk and driver side floor pan came from year one and some fender and quarter patch panels from performance years. all reqired "tweaking". stampings and such are close but side by side with an original piece you will see the differences. i like ames and performance years for service. i have not dealt with opgi, parts place or goodmark. i would also consider dealing with who is closest to save on shipping. it can cost $30 to ship a $75 item. i know there is a thread on here in which 05gto listed suppliers in order of his preference. i would go on that info if you or someone here can find that post. 
john


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## 05GTO (Oct 6, 2004)

Face,

What year GTO are you restoring? I opted for skins on my 66 and be prepared to do a little work, all of the remaned will have some flaws. 

Below is a picture of the right quarter with a dent that appeared after welding the skin in place. We used a torch and cold air to work it back out.

I've compared prices on all of the aftermarket suppliers and 7 out of 10 times The Parts Place was cheaper than the other guys. They are great to work with and fair on shipping charges.


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## johnnylightning03 (Nov 27, 2007)

face, i only assumed we are talking about a 67 gto based on your other thread with the engine questions where you ended with 67 gto in pieces. mine is a 66 gto.
john


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## 05GTO (Oct 6, 2004)

johnnylightning03 said:


> face, i only assumed we are talking about a 67 gto based on your other thread with the engine questions where you ended with 67 gto in pieces. mine is a 66 gto.
> john


:agree I saw his signature in another thread after posting above which says 67 GTO.


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## pmd66 (Dec 27, 2008)

goodmark makes all body panels and sells to other vendors. just have to find who has the best price. they are just relabeled for the vendor that buys them.


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## Face (Dec 22, 2008)

pmd66 said:


> goodmark makes all body panels and sells to other vendors. just have to find who has the best price. they are just relabeled for the vendor that buys them.


Umm...this doesn't seem right? Where did you get that info? Not trying to start nothing just wondering.

Yes this is the 67 i'm talking about. I was just planning on using the skins not the full quarters, but that's nice to know about the full quarters being unavailable. 
The Parts Place has the grille kit with the surrounds, inserts, and turn signals for $599!! Is that a good price for all that? That is the only full grille kit I have seen.
Guess I'm gonna be learning bodywork in the next couple months. What is the correct size welding wire to use? I have the nascar special lincoln electric 110MIG they sell at Home Depot.


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## 05GTO (Oct 6, 2004)

PMD66 is correct, Goodmark is a wholesale manufacture/distributor for body panels and other parts. You can buy from them at prices usually higher than the suppliers. I have purchased panels from most of the suppliers that had goodmark labels attached.

I've found many items from The Parts Place that were unavailable thru the other suppliers. The price sounds in line for a complete grill kit.

If your welder has no problem with larger wire then use it, I could not run the wire speed slow enough to use the larger wire so I stayed with the standard size.

A couple tools that you may want to invest in are Blind Grip Holders (clecos) and a Pneumatic Flanger/Punch Tool. I have both of these items that I may consider selling and they are very helpful in replacing skins.


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## Face (Dec 22, 2008)

Thanks for the info. Thats interesting about Goodmark. Just seems there would be other companies making the panels also.

So do you spot weld the whole quarter on or is it all right to run short beads?

I pulled the waterfall looking piece, above the grille, off the LeMans and it looks like it will fit the GTO. I just have to fill in the little holes where they had the PONTIAC badge on the driver side. Will the whole radiator support and hood support from the LeMans fit on the GTO?


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## 05GTO (Oct 6, 2004)

Almost all parts are interchangable between the Lemans and GTO, I recommend using the flange tool and overlapping the the metal just below the lower bend on top of the quarter. Punch a hole in the skin every inch or so and plug weld it to the body in the flanged area. If you are good at bead welding then weld the the 2 pieces together. After plug welding we spot welded the skin to the body then used all metal to fill the cavities.

BTW, under my avatar is a number (451), click on that, go to page 25 and that will be the beginnig pictures of my 66 frame off. There may be pictures that may help you with your project.


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## Face (Dec 22, 2008)

I just ordered the dash repair panel(between the wiper cowl and the windshield), decklid filler panel, hood hinges and gas tank straps and hardware. But the partsplace doesn't ship out until after jan. 5 for the holidays. 
I can't find anyone that sells the metal between the dashpad and the windshield. Mine has psoriasis.


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## Ranger01 (Nov 14, 2008)

Face said:


> So do you spot weld the whole quarter on or is it all right to run short beads?


You want to spot weld the panel on so it stays in place then after that you want to weld it on fully.
The best welding technique to use is stitch welding. Stitch welding is making 1 inch long beads and moving from one side of the panel to the other making one "stitch" at a time on each side. It is aimed to keep the panel cooler and avoid heat warping the steel. Remember that the object is to keep the heat down, so if welding smaller panels you may have to make shorter beads.

Diagram (beads longer than usual for size of panel to show pattern):








Stitches:
Red= 1
Orange=2
Yellow=3
Green=4
Blue=5
Purple=6


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## Face (Dec 22, 2008)

Awesome! That's what I thought. I got a random fender from a body shop so I can practice.
Today I got a closer inspection of the LeMans trunk and it looks good! I'll be cutting that out and welding it in the GTO. Less money to spend!
I was thinking about cutting out the rear window lip and attaching that to the GTO also. Where would be a good place to cut it? Closer to the trailing edge of the sail panel or closer to the lip?
I'm talking about this part.


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## Indy1K (May 16, 2008)

Hey Guys,
While we are on the subject of quarterpanels, can I ask about wheel openings?
My 65 GTO needs new wheel opening lips. Of course the lower quarters are gone but the patch panels were fitted into place by previous owner. The rest of the quartes are in good shape. 
Is it possible to get 65 wheel opening patch panels or use an available patch from a different year, if available? Rather than replace the whole quarter skin?
Thanks,
Kevin


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## Face (Dec 22, 2008)

Just tub it out!
I haven't seen just the wheel openings in my searches, but I'm also looking for 67 stuff. There are a bunch of websites out there.
ames
yearone
goodmark
originalpartsgroup


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## Face (Dec 22, 2008)

I finally figured out how to take my dash out! There was one little bitty screw through that bracket that holds the brake pedal and steering column. I was so close to just ripping it out! I cleaned it up real nice, but the paint is kind of nasty. Is SEM the best paint to use for plastic? Can you get it anywhere besides online?
I also (gasp) want to change the radio hole to a more modern DIN size. Is there a kit for that? Maybe Best Buy or Circuit City? Also on the subject of rock, there has got to be a better option for speaker placement than stock. Maybe the doors or rear kickpanels?

There is a sticker from Bobby Allison Racing in Hueytown, Alabama on the dash. Has anybody heard of him?


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## Indy1K (May 16, 2008)

Thanks Face-haha--not funny. Seriously though, it seems like this is a patch panel that they just dont make. I have checked all the catalogs. I am wondering if 64,65,or 66 chevelle pathc panel might be the same. Many of these basic bodies are the same sheetmetal with different front and rear assemblies.
I thought I had seen the front and rear kickpanels with the speakers on Ebay.
Good Luck, looks like you have quite a project ahead of you.
Kev


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## Too Many Projects (Nov 15, 2008)

05GTO said:


> A couple tools that you may want to invest in are Blind Grip Holders (clecos) and a Pneumatic Flanger/Punch Tool. I have both of these items that I may consider selling and they are very helpful in replacing skins.


So that is how you attached the skin ? You flanged the body so the skin would lay flush and then welded it ? I usually see people butt welding them to avoid the overlap being visible in the trunk. Did you do anything to blend that ?

Face, that rear support panel is attached with spot welds at the sides and to the filler panel. I would suggest drilling out the spot welds with a spot weld cutter instead of cutting up the panel. It will be more work to remove it but less to install and have look correct.


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## Indy1K (May 16, 2008)

Randy,
We have to do quarters on our 65...
Can you give alittle more detail on the flanging. I looked at the pictures in your album but not clear on which part gets flanged. I am assuming that you are flanging the new skin to lay up under the existing original skin perimeter since the pictures show holes every inch or so, then weld thru the original? Or is it the original flanged to lay under the new skin?
Thanks,
Kevin


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## Rukee (Feb 8, 2007)

Too Many Projects said:


> So that is how you attached the skin ? You flanged the body so the skin would lay flush and then welded it ? I usually see people butt welding them to avoid the overlap being visible in the trunk. Did you do anything to blend that ?


When I did my `65 rear quarter patches, I made the seam low, at the first body line so the seam would not be seen from the trunk area.


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## Eric Animal (Oct 28, 2007)

Face, i used the aftermarket kick panels with 6 1/2 " speakers molded in. They fit well, byt you have to move the emergency brake pedal about 1 inch to the right to clear the drivers side speaker. In an a/c car. I have 2 6x9 coaxial speakers in the rear shelf.....not stock but sounds real good. the kick panels are made of ABS and are harder and more shiney than stock.


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## Face (Dec 22, 2008)

Too Many Projects said:


> So that is how you attached the skin ? You flanged the body so the skin would lay flush and then welded it ? I usually see people butt welding them to avoid the overlap being visible in the trunk. Did you do anything to blend that ?
> 
> Face, that rear support panel is attached with spot welds at the sides and to the filler panel. I would suggest drilling out the spot welds with a spot weld cutter instead of cutting up the panel. It will be more work to remove it but less to install and have look correct.


I didn't even think about that seam on the inside. Flanging it would be a lot stronger than butt welding though.

I'm talking about the vertical window lip, the inside of the sail panel. I've ordered a new trunk filler panel but no one makes the other area that's rusted out and I don't want to fill it with fiberglass. I didn't see any spot welds around the area I need to cut out.


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## Face (Dec 22, 2008)

I've decided against cutting out the dash. Instead when the time comes...
this radio looks pretty nice.

Retrosound Model One Digital media receiver at Crutchfield.com

And I'll probably keep the stock one speaker mount up front and mount two 6x9's in the package tray.


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## Rukee (Feb 8, 2007)

I have a customer with a nice `69 Cougar convert and he has a hidden CD changer in the trunk run by a remote and kept the stock radio in the dash. Looks original and sounds nice!


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## Face (Dec 22, 2008)

Neither car has a radio at all.
I don't want to spend lots of money for a stock one (if anyone even sells them?), when I can get a better, more modern one for cheaper. I've tried going through the radio in my truck with my MP3 player and it sounded like crap. I'd rather have one with an aux. input, so I can hook anything up to it. The plan for this car is to drive it and I love listening to music when I'm driving.
At least I've decided against cutting the dash up.


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## Rukee (Feb 8, 2007)

I love music too and have an awesome ole school kick ass 2000 watt home stereo system with 3 pairs of speakers in a 13' x 13' room, but when I drive the GTO I only want to listen to that.


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## Too Many Projects (Nov 15, 2008)

Face said:


> Neither car has a radio at all.
> I don't want to spend lots of money for a stock one (if anyone even sells them?), when I can get a better, more modern one for cheaper. I've tried going through the radio in my truck with my MP3 player and it sounded like crap. I'd rather have one with an aux. input, so I can hook anything up to it. The plan for this car is to drive it and I love listening to music when I'm driving.
> At least I've decided against cutting the dash up.


Typical gearhead dreamer.............you buy a rusted, stripped out shell that needs major body repairs and a complete drivetrain and envision it restored but you're already wondering what sound system to install.......:cheers




Rukee said:


> When I drive the GTO I only want to listen to that.


"On a long lonesome highway,
East of Omaha,
you can listen to the engine moaning out it's 1 note song"

I started the Chevelle yesterday on open headers. It's been waaaaaaaaay too long since I had a car with headers. I know I would get tired of it in a couple years on the street but, damn, that is a sweet noise....


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## Face (Dec 22, 2008)

I know it's gonna be a long ways off before I can put a radio in. I just took out the dash the other day and started cleaning it up when it got too dark to work outside. That's when the thought of what to do about the music came about.
I just pulled the engine and trans today. I stripped the engine to nothing but the crank and 3 pistons. Two of them were seized in the cylinder and the third was impossible to get to without turning the crank. The block is now at a local shop that's done good work for me before. Just getting it cleaned up and magnafluxed, mic'ed, honed, all that good stuff.
There were tons of hornet nests on top of and below the pistons! I'm just glad it ain't summer time!
And the brown santa dropped me off some goodies today! Got my intake manifold, oil pump/shaft, 1" carb spacer, and spark plug wires. The engine is going to be finished before the rest of the car.


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## Too Many Projects (Nov 15, 2008)

Face said:


> I know it's gonna be a long ways off before I can put a radio in. I just took out the dash the other day and started cleaning it up when it got too dark to work outside. That's when the thought of what to do about the music came about.
> I just pulled the engine and trans today. I stripped the engine to nothing but the crank and 3 pistons. Two of them were seized in the cylinder and the third was impossible to get to without turning the crank. The block is now at a local shop that's done good work for me before. Just getting it cleaned up and magnafluxed, mic'ed, honed, all that good stuff.
> There were tons of hornet nests on top of and below the pistons! I'm just glad it ain't summer time!
> And the brown santa dropped me off some goodies today! Got my intake manifold, oil pump/shaft, 1" carb spacer, and spark plug wires. The engine is going to be finished before the rest of the car.


I have been considering what to do about a radio too and my stripped out shell is still 450 miles away....
Sounds like you are moving right along with this. Did the GTO come with a 400 engine, or are you rebuilding a 326 from the LeMans ?? 
I can see hornets going in open spark plug holes but into the crankcase to build nests is crazy.


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## Face (Dec 22, 2008)

I'm building the 400 that came in the GTO. I found out it is from a 73 so not original.
The spark plugs were in the holes! I guess they went in through the valves. And to get below they went by the cam. I guess they don't mind the smell of old oil.


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## Face (Dec 22, 2008)

The body is stripped! It is just a shell. So when I do all the new body panels, I leave it bolted to the frame right? Just to make sure it doesn't twist up or get out of alignment. I got the rear filler panel and the windshield channel in today. I just need to order new rocker patches, some sections of the floorboard, the quarters, and maybe the tailight panel.

For the rear window frame, how do you put in the rivets that hold the clips for the trim? The new filler panel doesn't have them.

Also, is their a good website or writeup on installing the windows in the doors? I took a couple pictures and then just started unbolting stuff left and right. Some of the pieces were already missing and or unbolted so that didn't help any. I might just keep the LeMans doors intact so I'll have a reference when the time comes.


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## Too Many Projects (Nov 15, 2008)

Face said:


> The body is stripped! It is just a shell. So when I do all the new body panels, I leave it bolted to the frame right? Just to make sure it doesn't twist up or get out of alignment. I got the rear filler panel and the windshield channel in today. I just need to order new rocker patches, some sections of the floorboard, the quarters, and maybe the tailight panel.
> 
> For the rear window frame, how do you put in the rivets that hold the clips for the trim? The new filler panel doesn't have them.
> 
> Also, is their a good website or writeup on installing the windows in the doors? I took a couple pictures and then just started unbolting stuff left and right. Some of the pieces were already missing and or unbolted so that didn't help any. I might just keep the LeMans doors intact so I'll have a reference when the time comes.


I would leave it on the frame if you don't have access to a body cart or rotisserie. Check all the body mounts first. If they are badly deteriorated, the body is already not sitting level or solid on the frame. Now would be the time to replace all the body mounts while the shell is light. 

There are screw in studs to replace the trim pieces on the window channels.

A shop manual is about the best source of window install info and pictures I've found. Get one for the 67 and it will have the vent windows and their adjustment procedures too. Now would be the best time to order all the vent window and inner and outer window seals so it's all ready for install after the paint. Having the LeMans as a reference will be a big help.


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## Face (Dec 22, 2008)

So the block had to be cut .060 over to be clean! The rods .030, and I don't know the mains yet. It was worse than I thought.

The TH400 rebuild stuff is on the way, hopefully I remember how to put it back together. (never done a tranny before)

I also have floorpans and a bunch of other stuff coming.


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## Face (Dec 22, 2008)

I ordered some of those screw in tabs for the window trim clips. 
Poly body bushings are on the way so I can get going on the body work.
Should I replace one at a time to keep the body aligned? I did a body lift on my truck but it still had floorboards, so this is a little different.


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## Rukee (Feb 8, 2007)

60 over is max for the block. 
I would wait till the floors were in before replacing the body mounts.


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## Too Many Projects (Nov 15, 2008)

I, personally, would look for a different crank. I'm not a fan of journals cut that deep. You lose too much of the hardening and it can wear faster. If the block isn't original, that too, should've been considered non-usable. It will run and function with all the machining but don't build it beyond stock and run it hard. I don't have a lot of confidence it will stay together very long under hard use.


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## Rukee (Feb 8, 2007)

Pfft! My block was rebuilt to .060 over 15 years ago and no problems. And yes she's driven too and been down the strip a few times, and driven home too in that time frame. To say you need stock bore or nothing is extreme. All chevy big blocks I build I bore to .060 over right off the bat. Those you can go to .120 over with no worries, but .060 is max for Pontiac's.


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## Too Many Projects (Nov 15, 2008)

I think you misunderstood my post. I didn't indicate anyone needs a stock bore or nothing. I just don't like spending all the money it takes to build an engine and have it at the max/last limits. Your car sits in storage half the year, where he lives in a milder climate where the car may get driven much more. His may last 15+ years too but my point was that if he had a choice a different block may have made more sense.


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## Rukee (Feb 8, 2007)

If the block is safe to run at .060 over, then wouldn't it make more sense to use what he has rather then spend more money for another block, just to have that one reworked and bored out too? As long as it's within specs it's good to go. Same with the crank, .030 under is fine, if it wasn't the shop who turned the crank would tell you. You just run the special .030 bearings and it works perfect.
I'd consider having the rotating assembly balanced while it's out. Well worth the money IMO.


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## Face (Dec 22, 2008)

I understand what you are saying, but the machine work is already done. I can't afford to have the 326 out of the Lemans built or to sleeve the 400. I think I'll just run this. The motor should have about 430 hp when it's done, and I do plan on driving it a lot. Might even act as my DD for a while. What would ya'll think about a classic GTO with a Yakima bike rack on the roof? HAHA! Just kidding! Maybe...

As for balancing, do you just do the crank or the whole rotating assembly? What does that do for you?

I have heard two different ways to do the floorpans and body mounts and there is only two options.
Do I put new mounts on so the body is straight and then weld in floorpans or do I weld floorpans in and then install new mounts. The first one makes more sense to me.


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## Too Many Projects (Nov 15, 2008)

Face said:


> I have heard two different ways to do the floorpans and body mounts and there is only two options.
> Do I put new mounts on so the body is straight and then weld in floorpans or do I weld floorpans in and then install new mounts. The first one makes more sense to me.


Me too....


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## Face (Dec 22, 2008)

Here are some recent pictures.



























These two header panels? were in my trunk and they don't go to this car. Does anybody need them? I don't know the year.


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## Rukee (Feb 8, 2007)

They make all the pistons weight the same, all the rods weight the same, and then balance the crank/flywheel/balancer as an assembly reducing vibration, reducing wear and increasing HP.
On the mounts, I put the floors in first then changed the mounts. 6 of 1, half dozen of the other.
Wow, that dash and firewall look rough, and I think those headers are for a `65?


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## Face (Dec 22, 2008)

Yes the dash is horrible. The one from the Lemans is in the trunk picture. I'm going to use pieces from that to repair mine. I'll just use sheetmetal for the rest of it. Lots of curves and bends to make.
The firewall is almost spotless though. It might be what's left of the insulation you're seeing.


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## Face (Dec 22, 2008)

I talked to my machine work guy and he said they can balance everything for $430! Does that seem reasonable?
The brown santa brought me a water pump and transmission rebuild stuff today! Going to get working on that pretty soon.


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## Indy1K (May 16, 2008)

That seems high. I had my 400 done with all parts Rukee mentions, including resizing the rods for only $170.00 and this guy builds Pontiac race engines.


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## Too Many Projects (Nov 15, 2008)

Face said:


> I talked to my machine work guy and he said they can balance everything for $430! Does that seem reasonable?
> The brown santa brought me a water pump and transmission rebuild stuff today! Going to get working on that pretty soon.





Indy1K said:


> That seems high. I had my 400 done with all parts Rukee mentions, including resizing the rods for only $170.00 and this guy builds Pontiac race engines.


That was my initial thought too, but I haven't been involved with that since only the pro-stock boys were doing it in the 70's....
It's possible that Face's builder doesn't have the equipment and would farm it out versus Indy's builder doing it in-house.
Face, are you located in a remote area that doesn't have a major parts store? I ask because some of the stuff you have been ordering, like the water pump, are readily available and would save shipping cost leaving that funding for more parts..... I bought an all new water pump for my Chevelle 396 at a local NAPA and had them bring in the HD u-joints I wanted on a stock order the next day with no additional cost. O'Reilly recently took over the local Checker store and has a LOT more engine and chassis parts available now too. They sometimes take a day or 2 to get the parts in but it saves paying for multiple shipping. Just a thought to save you some hard earned cash.


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## Rukee (Feb 8, 2007)

If that includes all the machining on the block and heads, the balancing and the engine comes back assembled, then it sounds good to me. If your just getting all the pieces back balanced, you put it together and it includes the block and head machining, it's an okay price, if that's just the price to balance the parts and all the machining is extra, then I agree, it's too much. I just called my machine shop and if you take them the rotating assembly, they charge $150.00 to balance.


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## Face (Dec 22, 2008)

I'm buying my stuff online because it's mostly aftermarket/higher performance stuff from Summit, Jeg's or direct from the manufacturer. The only stores around here are Advance, Autozone, and NAPA. Autozone doesn't even have a listing for a 67 GTO, and most of the other parts I've gone to any store for, so far, they can't get.
The machine shop just bought the machine to balance the stuff. It cost around $18000. That's probably why he's charging so much, just to pay for it. I'll search around and try to find a better price.
It does include honing the connecting rods and attaching the pistons.


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## Indy1K (May 16, 2008)

It should include pinning the pistons because they all have to weigh the same as a unit (each piston and rod) Mine came back unassembled because I wanted to do the assembly with my son. Total machine shop cost on mine was $1750.00. This included all block work, cut .030, hone and line bore check as well as new freeze and oil gallery plugs, cam bearings. Engine kit, full gasket set. crank cut 10/10, new jugs, new rod bolts, flywheel bolts,resize rods, balance, rotating assembly, heads done too, including new exhaust seats. 
Kevin


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