# Ignition switch



## USMCMAC8808 (Jan 8, 2020)

Hello, I am new guy to the forum. I have a '65 (in pieces) and a '69 (pretty nicely restored...not by me) When I bought the '69, the guy had lost the keys. Fortunately, the ignition is unlocked so I am able to start and drive the car. My question is replacing the switch. Is that something I can do myself relatively easily? (I haven't picked up a wrench to work on a car in over a decade due to long period of illness) Thanks y'all and looking forward to your responses!


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## O52 (Jan 27, 2019)

For the 69 and up the switch is mounted on the steering column and is fairly easy to replace. 

Now what I think you want to do is to replace the key lock cylinder which is mounted behind the steering wheel. For the first timer this can be difficult especially without the proper tools. You need to remove the steering wheel, lock plate snap ring, lock plate, and then move the turn signal switch out of the way to access the lock. Procedure to remove the lock cylinder requires the lock to be in the run position. Difficult to do without the key. Once the lock is in the run position you depress a tab on the lock cylinder which releases it from the column and pull out. 
Sounds more complicated than it really is. The procedure is in the service manual under the 'Steering' section. 
The required special tools are a steering wheel puller and a lock plate removal tool. Both are available at your favorite parts store. 
Highly recommend the service manual if you don't already have one.


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## USMCMAC8808 (Jan 8, 2020)

Hey, thanks so much!


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## BLK69JUDGE (Jun 10, 2010)

if you havent done this before .. you may want to leave it up to an old school locksmith
because its real easy to damage parts... starting with the horn wire ground on the steering wheel
do you have the rubber steering wheel that was standard? or the custom sport wood wheel?
1st picture is the lock plate hog ring clip pressure release tool
2nd is the steering wheel puller
3rd is what they look like with the steering wheel off
4th is the tab that needs depressed to getthe cylinder out ,,,, hidden under casting flash under the signal switch
sorry couldnt find my pictures of what it looks like and I just tossed 2 columns I pulled apart for parts a month ago
5th how far in the column the tab is ... there is 2 vertical rectangles cast in the housing hub 1/8x/3/8tall that has a thin cast web over the hole to get to the tab shown... fairly sure its the left depression,,,
its real easy to get siscouraged doing this job...
once the cylinder is out if its an original it will have a code on the side to cut a key
that key should work in your door also ... square head GM .. trunk n glove box round head key

does your horn work now ?
do your blinkers both left and right cancel when you come out of a corner? is your blinker arm need replaced
does your emergency flashers work ? is your tilt column wobbly?
all are items to address when the column is apart...

the locksmith may even be able to cut you a key if your door lock was pulled it uses 2 /3rds of the ignition
cuts..... but who knows if the ignition was changed out....

I would buy a matching set from "AMES" doors and ignition ,,, and install the NEW ignition and the doors to match later as then youlle be on the right track,,,,

Scott


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## USMCMAC8808 (Jan 8, 2020)

Thanks for all the great info and pics!


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## SophieMorris (Jul 31, 2020)

Great information, as a locksmith i really appreciate your effort.


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## ThomasOConnor (Jul 25, 2021)

Wonderful content, learned many new things from here as a locksmith about the ignition switch.


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