# EBC Brake Pad Install - Update



## J.E.T. (Sep 30, 2005)

Finally got my front pads installed (Green Pad) about ten days ago. Rear pads were on backorder so they were installed yesterday. Anyway, about a week after the fronts were installed I started to get a steering wheel "shimmy" when hard brakes were applied. Shop told me that upon inspection the left rotor had warped and needed more turning to true it up. They suggested I contact Active Brakes to let them know that there might be a heat build-up problem with their pads and the stock GTO rotors ('05). Called them and was told there was "no way" that could happen. Had to be defective stock rotor or shop error when they first turned the rotors to install the new EBC Green pads. Told them bull****, this shop is the best in central Florida and I would take their word any day over a mfg. supplier. Kid then told me if I wanted to switch out the stock rotors he would get me a good price. I dunno, anyone else have an opinion on this? Seems to me that if it were a pad problem via heat build, etc. that both fronts would have warped the stock rotors...........btw, this car is never driven hard.:confused :confused 


JET


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## ModBoss2 (Nov 13, 2005)

J.E.T. said:


> Finally got my front pads installed (Green Pad) about ten days ago. Rear pads were on backorder so they were installed yesterday. Anyway, about a week after the fronts were installed I started to get a steering wheel "shimmy" when hard brakes were applied. Shop told me that upon inspection the left rotor had warped and needed more turning to true it up. They suggested I contact Active Brakes to let them know that there might be a heat build-up problem with their pads and the stock GTO rotors ('05). Called them and was told there was "no way" that could happen. Had to be defective stock rotor or shop error when they first turned the rotors to install the new EBC Green pads. Told them bull****, this shop is the best in central Florida and I would take their word any day over a mfg. supplier. Kid then told me if I wanted to switch out the stock rotors he would get me a good price. I dunno, anyone else have an opinion on this? Seems to me that if it were a pad problem via heat build, etc. that both fronts would have warped the stock rotors...........btw, this car is never driven hard.:confused :confused
> 
> 
> JET


I hope he measured your rotors after he finished them. With newer cars it's the case, more often than not, that the rotors will be below discard/minimum thickness, after machining them. Plus you have to factor in what shape the rotors will be in throughout the expected service life of the newly installed pads. I can usually turn truck rotors, once, but not so with most cars. You may have even warped the rotor if you got it too hot during the break-in, w/o allowing them to cool down properly. Even old bits, or turning the rotors too fast will leave the rotors with a final finish that's not very smooth...a good source for too much friction/too much heat build-up.


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## J.E.T. (Sep 30, 2005)

ModBoss2 said:


> I hope he measured your rotors after he finished them. With newer cars it's the case, more often than not, that the rotors will be below discard/minimum thickness, after machining them. Plus you have to factor in what shape the rotors will be in throughout the expected service life of the newly installed pads. I can usually turn truck rotors, once, but not so with most cars. You may have even warped the rotor if you got it too hot during the break-in, w/o allowing them to cool down properly. Even old bits, or turning the rotors too fast will leave the rotors with a final finish that's not very smooth...a good source for too much friction/too much heat build-up.


You bet, these rotors only had 4K miles on them so he just had to do a light turn to insure they were true. Believe me, I barely touched the new brakes until there was almost 200-300 miles on them, well beyond the recommended 100 mile break-in period. We'll see how they work now.........

JET


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## ModBoss2 (Nov 13, 2005)

J.E.T. said:


> You bet, these rotors only had 4K miles on them so he just had to do a light turn to insure they were true. Believe me, I barely touched the new brakes until there was almost 200-300 miles on them, well beyond the recommended 100 mile break-in period. We'll see how they work now.........
> 
> JET



If the tech had the right finish on your rotors, then that should eliminate him or the stock rotors as the source of the problem...but I still hope he measured it. One or two quick passes and one final pass on newish rotors should be within the limits; should be. Most of the times rotors can't even be turned, at all. Just *normal* pad wear [car's very first brake job] is usually more wear on the rotor than it can stand...it's already to the point that it can't safely be refinished.


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## J.E.T. (Sep 30, 2005)

ModBoss2 said:


> If the tech had the right finish on your rotors, then that should eliminate him or the stock rotors as the source of the problem...but I still hope he measured it. One or two quick passes and one final pass on newish rotors should be within the limits; should be. Most of the times rotors can't even be turned, at all. Just *normal* pad wear [car's very first brake job] is usually more wear on the rotor than it can stand...it's already to the point that it can't safely be refinished.



Picked it up today and everything is fine.........


JET


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## bsmcall (Sep 11, 2004)

IMHO, someone overtorqued the lugnuts.

I've had it happen many times on our full size GM's after tire rotation. If the wheels are impacted on too tightly you will get an iritating vibration when hard braking. The rotors will definitely require a light trim, after you figure out why anyone would put lugnuts on tighter than spec. :confused


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## ModBoss2 (Nov 13, 2005)

bsmcall said:


> IMHO, someone overtorqued the lugnuts.
> 
> I've had it happen many times on our full size GM's after tire rotation. If the wheels are impacted on too tightly you will get an iritating vibration when hard braking. The rotors will definitely require a light trim, after you figure out why anyone would put lugnuts on tighter than spec. :confused


Good point. I always use a torque wrench or torque sticks. A person that doesn't torque to specs is just lazy and/or thoughtless, imo.


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## ShAkz05GTO (Dec 9, 2005)

bsmcall said:


> IMHO, someone overtorqued the lugnuts.
> 
> I've had it happen many times on our full size GM's after tire rotation. If the wheels are impacted on too tightly you will get an iritating vibration when hard braking. The rotors will definitely require a light trim, after you figure out why anyone would put lugnuts on tighter than spec. :confused


What is the correct torque specs for the lug nuts?


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## ModBoss2 (Nov 13, 2005)

ShAkz05GTO said:


> What is the correct torque specs for the lug nuts?


100 ft lbs


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## J.E.T. (Sep 30, 2005)

Guys, this shop is not a bunch of kids. They're total pro's, believe me. This is the shop that all the dealers come to when they can't get alignment, tire balance or brakes figured out due to vibrations, etc. Been in business over 60 years. I totally trust these guys........

JET


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## ModBoss2 (Nov 13, 2005)

J.E.T. said:


> Guys, this shop is not a bunch of kids. They're total pro's, believe me. This is the shop that all the dealers come to when they can't get alignment, tire balance or brakes figured out due to vibrations, etc. Been in business over 60 years. I totally trust these guys........
> 
> JET


You asked for input, and over-torqued lugnuts or machined rotors that were not turned at the right speed, wrong micro-finish, dull bits, etc were good suggestions. The problem could be blamed strictly on the new pads or the stock rotors not being up to the task of the pad swap, but those are more far-fetched than a mistake by a tech. I've been doing this for 23 years, with a group of guys that have been in the biz since the 60's. It only takes one bad seed being planted to give a business a bad image. Not saying that they're not pros, but I know about finding and keeping help that are as dedicated as the ones that built the business from the ground up.

Sorry if it made you mad.


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## J.E.T. (Sep 30, 2005)

ModBoss2 said:


> You asked for input, and over-torqued lugnuts or machined rotors that were not turned at the right speed, wrong micro-finish, dull bits, etc were good suggestions. The problem could be blamed strictly on the new pads or the stock rotors not being up to the task of the pad swap, but those are more far-fetched than a mistake by a tech. I've been doing this for 23 years, with a group of guys that have been in the biz since the 60's. It only takes one bad seed being planted to give a business a bad image. Not saying that they're not pros, but I know about finding and keeping help that are as dedicated as the ones that built the business from the ground up.
> 
> Sorry if it made you mad.


Not mad at all.......believe me. The shop consists of four guys, all in their 40's.......no kids or new hires at all. It's nice to deal with professionals on a one to one basis after dealing with dealerships who could care less.......thanks for your input.

JET


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## ModBoss2 (Nov 13, 2005)

J.E.T. said:


> Not mad at all.......believe me. The shop consists of four guys, all in their 40's.......no kids or new hires at all. It's nice to deal with professionals on a one to one basis after dealing with dealerships who could care less.......thanks for your input.
> 
> JET


Yeah, we stopped hiring in the late 80's
...and I'm guessing that new rotors solved your problem?


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## J.E.T. (Sep 30, 2005)

ModBoss2 said:


> Yeah, we stopped hiring in the late 80's
> ...and I'm guessing that new rotors solved your problem?


Nope, just re-turned the fronts again.......problem solved.

JET


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## ModBoss2 (Nov 13, 2005)

J.E.T. said:


> Nope, just re-turned the fronts again.......problem solved.
> 
> JET


Guess the *Green* pads weren't the problem afterall?

The stock rotors have been machined...twice? 

The Aussie's must install really HD rotors from the factory...OR they're waaaaay under machined minimum by now.

b.t.w. What warped the machined rotors to start with...heat build up? If so, taking off extra material is just going to create a rotor that will heat up faster and will be unable to dissipate heat as well as it should, which can lead to brake fade and/or warped rotors. That's why measuring rotors before and after machining is a must. Steer clear of water puddles.

Edit: Maybe one of the pads were dragging? My factory C5 pad set had a couple of pads that needed a little filing on the backing to get them to slide smoothly. I would have had a problem.


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## J.E.T. (Sep 30, 2005)

ModBoss2 said:


> Guess the *Green* pads weren't the problem afterall?
> 
> The stock rotors have been machined...twice?
> 
> ...


Just the problem rotor was turned again........VERY light so I'm not worried at all about the rotor life. We rotated the tires from front to back and now I have a slight vibration between 64 and 71 mph. Has to be another out of round tire.......these are new too, Goodyear F1's. Got 'em from Tire Rack and one was found bad right away......now it looks like another one has to be exchanged out. We'll get it right eventually.......believe me.

JET


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## Lally (Oct 7, 2005)

one thing that I learned back several years ago when EBC started becoming big here in the US... The green stuff pads were originally designed for track day use OR cars 2500# or less. Given the weight of our cars, the red stuff pads appear to be more appropriate (and the minimum operating temp for the red stuff pads was right around 100 deg. F.

Now this may have all changed, but personally, I really liked the red pads, and will probably use them unless I go with a bigger upgrade :-D


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## ModBoss2 (Nov 13, 2005)

J.E.T. said:


> Just the problem rotor was turned again........VERY light so I'm not worried at all about the rotor life. We rotated the tires from front to back and now I have a slight vibration between 64 and 71 mph. Has to be another out of round tire.......these are new too, Goodyear F1's. Got 'em from Tire Rack and one was found bad right away......now it looks like another one has to be exchanged out. We'll get it right eventually.......believe me.
> 
> JET


Turning rotors enough, twice, to correct warpage, twice, is considered light machining? Oh. If they're professionals of course it goes without saying that they made sure to measure the rotor closely, and installed it knowing that it passed the measurement specs. A shop owner can't be too careful when he puts his customers back out on the roads. You can't measure a rotor with a naked eye, that's why there's special tools for that, of course.

And before I condemned a high quality tire like that F1 I'd do a quick recalibration on by computerized balancer. Most modern ones have the ability to self-calibrate and load-test the tire for belt trueness.


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## J.E.T. (Sep 30, 2005)

ModBoss2 said:


> Turning rotors enough, twice, to correct warpage, twice, is considered light machining? Oh. If they're professionals of course it goes without saying that they made sure to measure the rotor closely, and installed it knowing that it passed the measurement specs. A shop owner can't be too careful when he puts his customers back out on the roads. You can't measure a rotor with a naked eye, that's why there's special tools for that, of course.
> 
> And before I condemned a high quality tire like that F1 I'd do a quick recalibration on by computerized balancer. Most modern ones have the ability to self-calibrate and load-test the tire for belt trueness.


No problem with the rotors........everything is fine. This shop does "on the car" tire balancing.........heads above ANY force balance machine. Right front was just slightly out of round causing a vibration from 64 to 71 mph only. This was the second tire out of the set of four that had to be replaced by Tire Rack. New tire coming, no problem. 

JET


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## ModBoss2 (Nov 13, 2005)

J.E.T. said:


> No problem with the rotors........everything is fine. This shop does "on the car" tire balancing.........heads above ANY force balance machine. Right front was just slightly out of round causing a vibration from 64 to 71 mph only. This was the second tire out of the set of four that had to be replaced by Tire Rack. New tire coming, no problem.
> 
> JET


Good luck with all those problems that you keep encountering.

Off the car balancers can check for tire and wheel trueness and tread defects...and I personally prefer the off the car method to balance a wheel and tire. I want to know that it's perfectly balanced, that way if I'm still feeling a vibration I don't want to try and mask it with an on the car balancer, I want to trace it to the source and not be mislead...a bad drum, c/v axle, bearing, steering component, etc...plus, you're not forced to re-balance every time you rotate the tires.


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## J.E.T. (Sep 30, 2005)

ModBoss2 said:


> Good luck with all those problems that you keep encountering.
> 
> Off the car balancers can check for tire and wheel trueness and tread defects...and I personally prefer the off the car method to balance a wheel and tire. I want to know that it's perfectly balanced, that way if I'm still feeling a vibration I don't want to try and mask it with an on the car balancer, I want to trace it to the source and not be mislead...a bad drum, c/v axle, bearing, steering component, etc...plus, you're not forced to re-balance every time you rotate the tires.


No problems now. These tires were already balanced by the top of the line road force balancers without finding the "out of round" problem. Only the on car balance found it. This is the place dealers come to when their balancer can't fix the problem.

JET


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## ModBoss2 (Nov 13, 2005)

J.E.T. said:


> No problems now. These tires were already balanced by the top of the line road force balancers without finding the "out of round" problem. Only the on car balance found it. This is the place dealers come to when their balancer can't fix the problem.
> 
> JET


I don't get you. Back to your original problem. It was never the pads, like "the place" suggested? They just have to keep refinishing your original rotor to solve *the problem*, that's not a problem? And I wouldn't trust a dealership, or any service center, that couldn't handle a balance job. I'm never asked to re-do a balance job. I've never had to tear back into a simple pad swap job. I measure the rotor for thickness and runout, resurface rotors if they need it, don't if they don't, and throw them in the junk pile if they don't meet the required specs. I changed out my pads for OEM C5 pads. Absolutely no problems or drama as a result.

If you didn't want opinions, disregard every single suggestion, constantly defend the place you're going to, keep repeating no problem no problem no problem, I don't know why you ever asked for the help of others in the first place.

Good luck


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## J.E.T. (Sep 30, 2005)

ModBoss2 said:


> I don't get you. Back to your original problem. It was never the pads, like "the place" suggested? They just have to keep refinishing your original rotor to solve *the problem*, that's not a problem? And I wouldn't trust a dealership, or any service center, that couldn't handle a balance job. I'm never asked to re-do a balance job. I've never had to tear back into a simple pad swap job. I measure the rotor for thickness and runout, resurface rotors if they need it, don't if they don't, and throw them in the junk pile if they don't meet the required specs. I changed out my pads for OEM C5 pads. Absolutely no problems or drama as a result.
> 
> If you didn't want opinions, disregard every single suggestion, constantly defend the place you're going to, keep repeating no problem no problem no problem, I don't know why you ever asked for the help of others in the first place.
> 
> Good luck




Now I know why you're so defensive "Mr. Mechanic". When someone (like a mechanic) says "I've never had to do over a......" for any repair work they've done I automtically know they're lying. Nice try partner. Next time just keep your opinions to yourself........I don't need 'em and I pity the shop manager you work for.

JET


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## ModBoss2 (Nov 13, 2005)

J.E.T. said:


> Now I know why you're so defensive "Mr. Mechanic". When someone (like a mechanic) says "I've never had to do over a......" for any repair work they've done I automtically know they're lying. Nice try partner. Next time just keep your opinions to yourself........I don't need 'em and I pity the shop manager you work for.
> 
> JET



I'm not defensive, you are. Fact is you're just way too insecure for your little super-shop that flubbed-up a simple pad-swap job. And yes, I've **never** had to tear back into a simple pad-swap job [I didn't say "any repair"], like super-shop did, because even you admitted that they had to remachine that rotor...so don't call me a liar.

You might try keeping your pleas for opinions to yourself in the future, since you shot down every single one that you were faced with. Logic eliminates you as the source for your problem, unless you weren't being honest about breaking the pads in easy. You still have the greenies on there, so they're *not* the problem. You've never made any mention of getting new pads, just remachining the rotors again. And you even noted that only one rotor was warped, not both, leading you to believe that it wasn't the pads. SO, that just leaves *the shop* as the source. There's no one else to point a finger at. Over-torquing the lugnuts [as somebody else suggested], not insuring that the pads had free travel the first time, wrong finish on the machined rotors... The rotors didn't warp all by themselves, so what caused it?

...and I "work" for no one. I'm a co-owner and I'm currently ASE certified in engine repair, brakes, electronic systems, heating and A/C

Again, good luck with all of the problems that you *keep* encountering. I'd be pulling my hair out if I kept seeing a customer return 3 or 4 times after just mounting some tires and swapping out a set of pads.

I don't want to fight over this, so this is the end of my replies on this thread.


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## J.E.T. (Sep 30, 2005)

ModBoss2 said:


> I'm not defensive, you are. Fact is you're just way too insecure for your little super-shop that flubbed-up a simple pad-swap job. And yes, I've **never** had to tear back into a simple pad-swap job [I didn't say "any repair"], like super-shop did, because even you admitted that they had to remachine that rotor...so don't call me a liar.
> 
> You might try keeping your pleas for opinions to yourself in the future, since you shot down every single one that you were faced with. Logic eliminates you as the source for your problem, unless you weren't being honest about breaking the pads in easy. You still have the greenies on there, so they're *not* the problem. You've never made any mention of getting new pads, just remachining the rotors again. And you even noted that only one rotor was warped, not both, leading you to believe that it wasn't the pads. SO, that just leaves *the shop* as the source. There's no one else to point a finger at. Over-torquing the lugnuts [as somebody else suggested], not insuring that the pads had free travel the first time, wrong finish on the machined rotors... The rotors didn't warp all by themselves, so what caused it?
> 
> ...


No fight at all........just your idiotic interpretation of the facts here. You must drive your "partner" (and poor customers) nuts with this attitude of yours. As far as being ASE certified.........paleeese? Anyone can get certified. Also for the umpteenth time.........ALL "PROBLEMS" ARE SOLVED........GET IT? Now, go back to work.:seeya: 


JET


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## ModBoss2 (Nov 13, 2005)

J.E.T. said:


> No fight at all........just your idiotic interpretation of the facts here. You must drive your "partner" (and poor customers) nuts with this attitude of yours. As far as being ASE certified.........paleeese? Anyone can get certified. Also for the umpteenth time.........ALL "PROBLEMS" ARE SOLVED........GET IT? Now, go back to work.:seeya:
> 
> 
> JET



You're the fool that started this thread, frustrated about problems, but the second we stepped on the toes of the dear shop that you go to, you went bonkers, instead of thanking others for their input. That's what usually happens when people have problems and suggestions are made to help that poster and others that might be reading with a similar problem...they act pleased, they don't start posting *stop it guys!!*

Does that super-shop employ ASE mechanics? No? You don't seem that impressed with the ASE organization...that, or you just laughed at your super-shop's ASE credentials, assuming that they're certified to do brake jobs.

All problems solved? :rofl: What problems? You've never had the guts to ever admit *WHAT* caused the problems to begin with. A rotor that heats to the point that it warps [what caused that]...then gets fixed by taking material off for the 2nd time???:lol: The greenies are still on your GTO? Must have not been the problem? Hmmm... If the brake job was done right the first time there would be NO problems - GET IT? Warped rotors after a simple pad swap isn't the result of doing the job right, that's why you keep taking it back in to have the job redone [fact].  You feel sorry for my customers? I feel sorry for yours...your standards appear to be set too low for my liking.

Good luck...I need to get back to that '88 C1500 motor-swap

b.t.w. You'll be on my ignore list from now on.:seeya:


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## J.E.T. (Sep 30, 2005)

ModBoss2 said:


> You're the fool that started this thread, frustrated about problems, but the second we stepped on the toes of the dear shop that you go to, you went bonkers, instead of thanking others for their input. That's what usually happens when people have problems and suggestions are made to help that poster and others that might be reading with a similar problem...they act pleased, they don't start posting *stop it guys!!*
> 
> Does that super-shop employ ASE mechanics? No? You don't seem that impressed with the ASE organization...that, or you just laughed at your super-shop's ASE credentials, assuming that they're certified to do brake jobs.
> 
> ...


See.......told you about lying! You said you wouldn't reply and then (being the moron that you are) just couldn't stand hearing the facts.....AGAIN!! I didn't ask for any help at all...... if you can read (or better yet UNDERSTAND) my first post. And what's with this "we" stuff........got a turd in your pocket?? I merely wanted to advise the BB of EBC brake pads and my experience with them so far. You are such an idiot........now, get back under that truck DUM-ASS!......:seeya: :seeya:

JET


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## ModBoss2 (Nov 13, 2005)

J.E.T. said:


> See.......told you about lying! You said you wouldn't reply and then (being the moron that you are) just couldn't stand hearing the facts.....AGAIN!! I didn't ask for any help at all...... if you can read (or better yet UNDERSTAND) my first post. And what's with this "we" stuff........got a turd in your pocket?? I merely wanted to advise the BB of EBC brake pads and my experience with them so far. You are such an idiot........now, get back under that truck DUM-ASS!......:seeya: :seeya:
> 
> JET


I've just decided that I'm not going to let you continue to try and make this an excuse to launch personal attacks, only because you're too insecure to take advice or explain what *caused* the warpage.

You've never given facts, just keep saying no problem because you can't explain WHY the brake job had to be torn down again (within 2 weeks), to remachine the rotor(s)

Facts...why did the rotor warp, what were the measurements before and after machining, were the lugnuts even torqued to specs, are they even ASE certified to work on brakes (you snubbed the ASE orginization)

You asked for help. I read your first post. You didn't give advice like you pretend :lol: You asked for advice/"opinions", then started jumping on me and one other poster the very instant that the advice started coming in. We must have been pretty close to the mark because you got very defensive and evasive from that very moment. Again...still got the greenie pads installed on your GTO?...must not be the problem, just as the pad supplier suggested. And if you *really* take a good look at your very first posting, even you were starting to suggest that it was a problem due to the installer...look towards the end of the posting. You asked for opinions, then lashed out when you were given the advice. Here's a little portion of your posting, asking for advice...



J.E.T. said:


> I dunno, anyone else have an opinion on this? Seems to me that if it were a pad problem via heat build, etc. that both fronts would have warped the stock rotors...........btw, this car is never driven hard.:confused :confused
> 
> JET


Nice try. 

Too bad you had to start turning this into a personal flamewar...you asked for advice and you were given it. Instead of acting appreciative and using the opportunity to come foreward and help others that might be having similar problems, by being able to explain the exact reason for the warped rotor, you elected to just repeat no problem no problem no problem, call me a dum-*ss and ask about turds in pockets.

Believe it folks, if JET found EBC and their pads to be the problem, we would have heard about it from him (I can assume that their pads are still installed since not one word has ever been mentioned about replacing them with another set). If his installer convinced him that he flubbed-up the bed-in process, causing the rotor to warp, we would have known about it. If the installer could have convinced JET that the EBC greenies were the source of the problem, we would have known by now. All fingers point to the installer as being the cause of the brake problems, that's why he's being so abrasive to fellow posters that give him advice when he asks for the advice.

Guess I'll call the customer today, and let him know that his longblock engine-swap is ready...turned out so perfect. I'm glad.

b.t.w. Hope your problems with the basic **pad-swap** job are _finally_ over. 

...and as for "we"...I didn't give you the advice about the over-torqued lugnut possibility, that was from another poster, not me. Face the facts, man.


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## GTODEALER (Jan 7, 2005)

This thread is amusing...... just kidding guys... At least you got your problems fixed!:cheers


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## ModBoss2 (Nov 13, 2005)

GTODEALER said:


> This thread is amusing...... just kidding guys... At least you got your problems fixed!:cheers


Yeah, the next time I ask you for advice, I'll kindly ask you to remind me to be sure and curse you with my fingers stuck in my ears. ...and if I figure out what caused the original problem I'll be darn sure to keep reeeeeeeeal secretive about it.


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## GTODEALER (Jan 7, 2005)

:lol: ..... this is what I needed for a craptastic Monday.....:lol:


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## J.E.T. (Sep 30, 2005)

GTODEALER said:


> :lol: ..... this is what I needed for a craptastic Monday.....:lol:


This guy's a trip isn't he? Bet his Mom had to tie porkchops around his neck to get the dog to play with him:lol: :lol: 


JET


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## ModBoss2 (Nov 13, 2005)

J.E.T. said:


> This guy's a trip isn't he? Bet his Mom had to tie porkchops around his neck to get the dog to play with him:lol: :lol:
> 
> 
> JET



I stuck to the subject at hand, you reduced it to a flamewar. Since the GreenStuff weren't the source of your problem, I won't be afraid to consider them the next time I do a brake job.


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## GTODEALER (Jan 7, 2005)

:lol: :rofl: :lol:


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## J.E.T. (Sep 30, 2005)

ModBoss2 said:


> I stuck to the subject at hand, you reduced it to a flamewar. Since the GreenStuff weren't the source of your problem, I won't be afraid to consider them the next time I do a brake job.


Damn I'm good........got 'cha to buy 'em after all!..........:cheers

JET


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## ModBoss2 (Nov 13, 2005)

J.E.T. said:


> Damn I'm good........got 'cha to buy 'em after all!..........:cheers
> 
> JET


The only difference being that I won't be doing the simple job 2 and 3 times. If the rotors are within specs I'll resurface them, _properly_, if not within specs I'll toss them.


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## ModBoss2 (Nov 13, 2005)

GTODEALER said:


> :lol: :rofl: :lol:


He was given an opinion, by me and others, because he came here asking for opinions, then he started with the personal attacks, strictly as a deflection tactic. I'm not in the wrong on this.


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## GTODEALER (Jan 7, 2005)

I just want both of you to know I'm not taking anyones side on this, I'm just glad (I know that's moraly wrong... sorry) that you guys started this thread 'cause I've had a pretty crappy past two days and the humor (from an outside point of view) really helped, thanks to the both of you. BTW, you guys ever think enough is enough.... I mean I think you've both stated your points 'till your blue in the face.....:cheers


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## ModBoss2 (Nov 13, 2005)

GTODEALER said:


> I just want both of you to know I'm not taking anyones side on this, I'm just glad (I know that's moraly wrong... sorry) that you guys started this thread 'cause I've had a pretty crappy past two days and the humor (from an outside point of view) really helped, thanks to the both of you. BTW, you guys ever think enough is enough.... I mean I think you've both stated your points 'till your blue in the face.....:cheers


Yeah, I'm just glad that this thread actually served a purpose then (making you smile) ...seeing that all opinions were attacked....and ShAkz05GTO now knows what the torque specs for the lugnuts are, so it was a double blessing, it seems.

Hope Wednesday is a better day for you.


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## GTODEALER (Jan 7, 2005)

ModBoss2 said:


> Yeah, I'm just glad that this thread actually served a purpose then (making you smile) ShAkz05GTO now knows what the torque specs for the lugnuts are


:lol: Wednesday is getting better.... the closer to 5:30 it is....:lol:


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## J.E.T. (Sep 30, 2005)

See.........I made everyone happy now. I'm truly blessed:cheers 


JET


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## ModBoss2 (Nov 13, 2005)

J.E.T. said:


> See.........I made everyone happy now. I'm truly blessed:cheers
> 
> 
> JET



Truly sorry that I made you so mad.:cool


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## GTODEALER (Jan 7, 2005)

I'm glad you guys are good now! So go out and stomp on some friggin' Mustangs.:cheers


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## J.E.T. (Sep 30, 2005)

ModBoss2 said:


> Truly sorry that I made you so mad.:cool



OK.........:lol: :lol: 


JET


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## adearmas2 (Jan 2, 2006)

ModBoss2 said:


> 100 ft lbs


My impression it is 85 ft-lbs.


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## ModBoss2 (Nov 13, 2005)

J.E.T. said:


> OK.........:lol: :lol:
> 
> 
> JET



Yes


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## J.E.T. (Sep 30, 2005)

Well they're comin' off this week (EBC Green Pads). Can't stand the noise and dust. Pure junk.........they're goin' back for a refund.

JET


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