# Installed SpyderAuto Lights (w/HIDs) and West Coast Speed SAP Grilles



## LS2 MN6 (Jul 14, 2010)

So yesterday I installed my SpyderAuto lights (with an HID kit) and the WCS SAP Grilles. Car looks much nicer now.

Here are some day shots (I'll post night later). I'm a little disapointed that the Halo's are not brighter in the day time (like the BMW ones) you can barely tell they are on.

No Lights On


















Halo's On (they come on with Ignition)


















Lights On


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## Mike_V (Mar 10, 2006)

That looks so perfect. Far superior to just throwing HIDs into the stock housing.


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## LS2 MN6 (Jul 14, 2010)

Thanks!

I'm trying to wire my Fog Lamps to my DRL's next (disconnecting the DRL from the Low Beams). Since both use Relay Grounds to complete the circuit.

I tried to do it today up by the Fuse box (where the loom of wires is located) but the colors in the Service Manual don't match up. I'm 99% sure I mis-wired my "Run" line to the "Starter" input thus causing it to try to start when the car is placed in Run (not crank) and almost having the car go thru the garage door! I've got no clue where the right wires where as I couldn't find any other Purple or Purple\White lines under there. I think late 2006's have different wiring colors (this is the 3rd time I've found my cars wiring different versus the service manual).

I also think I broke 4 or 5 clips on that U shaped housing (that the loom of wires was in), and since I cut the "Run" line I had to butt-splice it back together. I also am slightly concerned that I may have degraded the Starter Relay wire as when I attempted to crimp to it, you typically sever a bunch of the wire (I electrical taped it for now so hopefully that works for a few years, worst case I'll crack it back open make it a clean cut and butt-splice it back together).

I'm going to try it on the other end now by the DRL resistor and the Fog Lamps proper. But I'm waiting a while, maybe next weekend.


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## LS2 MN6 (Jul 14, 2010)

Night Shots...

Halos Only (this is Ignition on, Lights Off)









Lights On


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## ROBSGTO (Jul 6, 2008)

Looks great! I checked,but didn't see a price for the halo's.How much do they cost and are they plug and play?Thanks!


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## LS2 MN6 (Jul 14, 2010)

Price depends on where you get them. They run around $250+ Shipping (typically $40), price seems to be the same regardless of if they include HID's.

Lights (Light\Low) are plug and play without HID's. Turn Signal is reused from Stock. If you add HID's you have to wire them up as you would on a stock set of lamps. Halo's & LED's must be wired up by you. The guide recommends doing them both on the Turn Signals so they come on with the "running" lights. I did my LED's that way but tapped an ignition line for my Halo's as I'd like them on during the day (I thought they would be brighter and could act as DRLs).

It wasn't hard to wire up once I figured out where everything was.


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## ROBSGTO (Jul 6, 2008)

LS2 MN6 said:


> Price depends on where you get them. They run around $250+ Shipping (typically $40), price seems to be the same regardless of if they include HID's.
> 
> Lights (Light\Low) are plug and play without HID's. Turn Signal is reused from Stock. If you add HID's you have to wire them up as you would on a stock set of lamps. Halo's & LED's must be wired up by you. The guide recommends doing them both on the Turn Signals so they come on with the "running" lights. I did my LED's that way but tapped an ignition line for my Halo's as I'd like them on during the day (I thought they would be brighter and could act as DRLs).
> 
> It wasn't hard to wire up once I figured out where everything was.


Ok,thanks!


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## 06_TorridGTO (Jan 26, 2011)

Looks good, looks like they fit well also. I was debating back and forth it get these or not but I could never find any good pictures, and the pictures I did find were not consistent with the halo color (some blue some white). And none were taken during the day. 

Needless to say I found a OEM headlight for a fraction of the cost from a dealer (thanks craigslist!). So I'm in the process of ordering a HID kit, probably be next months little project. Thanks for the pictures, maybe when I have acouple hundred to blow in the future I may pick some up.

Also, has anyone used the high beams as DRL's? Haven't looked at a wiring diagram but if the DRL uses the bulbs in series circuit it should cut the brightness in half (giving them a dim appearance but bright enough to be seen). This is how the 2011 S o n a t a's (and other cars as well I'm sure) run their DRL and it works well.

EDIT: Is there a reason why we censor S o n a t a?


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## LS2 MN6 (Jul 14, 2010)

06_TorridGTO said:


> Also, has anyone used the high beams as DRL's? Haven't looked at a wiring diagram but if the DRL uses the bulbs in series circuit it should cut the brightness in half (giving them a dim appearance but bright enough to be seen)?


You can reroute the DRL to the High Beams or the Fogs. You just have to run a new wire from the DRL Resistor (in the front bumper) to the "Relay" side of the High Beam or Fog circuits.

I was trying to be fancy and run my Fogs at full voltage and doing the connection near the fuse box. I'm now going to do it near the DRL resistor and run them at lower voltage (you can do either from the resistor it just depends which wire you cut and how you tap it to the High Beams or Fogs)

I'm well versed in GTO schematics after reading them for about 5 hours (over the course of this project).


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## LS2 MN6 (Jul 14, 2010)

Now I'm trying to find the adjustment screw as the lights are aimed a little too high.

I know some others here had the lights, I wonder if anyone knows how to adjust them down a bit.

I guess some digging on the internet will be required.


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## Northeast Rod Run (Oct 29, 2008)

LS2 MN6 said:


> I also am slightly concerned that I may have degraded the Starter Relay wire as when I attempted to crimp to it, you typically sever a bunch of the wire (I electrical taped it for now *so hopefully that works for a few years*).


 A few years.... Really? What are you doing, hoping that your hackjob lasts you until you sell the car, and then it will be some poor unsuspecting "sucker's" problem?

From your entire post, it sounds like you've hacked quite a bit in your electrical system. If you know you've done things wrong, why not go back and fix it while it's fresh in your mind? 

If I knowingly butchered anything on my car, I couldn't sleep at night.


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## LS2 MN6 (Jul 14, 2010)

Northeast Rod Run said:


> A few years.... Really? What are you doing, hoping that your hackjob lasts you until you sell the car, and then it will be some poor unsuspecting "sucker's" problem?
> 
> From your entire post, it sounds like you've hacked quite a bit in your electrical system. If you know you've done things wrong, why not go back and fix it while it's fresh in your mind?
> 
> If I knowingly butchered anything on my car, I couldn't sleep at night.


Sell? Who sells cars? No hope it lasts until I "the doors fall off." Normally I'm not even a fan of buying used cars (I know how the average person treats a car), this one was an exception. 

Besides I've already found multiple places where the wiring has been fixed already (extra electrical tape, repaired clips) I'm guessing this car was in the repair bay at the factory unless the previous owner had some non-documented service done (based on his miles driven and the paperwork he gave me when I bought the car, unlikely but still possible). Also when I installed the radio I cut the interior wiring to bits anyway behind the radio.

However when I do make cuts I typically use insulated connectors and I re wrap all looms with electrical tape which is better than most people. If you think that's still bad, seriously go to a factory see how they treat a brand new car. When leaving you'll think two things. 1. I can't believe they manhandled a car like that, and 2. I'm amazed that these things start.

Cars aren't an investment, you either lease or buy to keep until the car fails or god forbid destroyed by an accident and unrepairable.

BTW, I found that adjustment screw. Now to get some free time & a wall and then in about 2 hours I'll level the lights.


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## LS2 MN6 (Jul 14, 2010)

Notes after a few days of having them.

Much brighter than the stock beams. However there is a small issue with the cut-off line where the HID's show a "blob" of light above the cutoff. I've discovered the problem is the bulbs orientation in the projector, if you lift it up slightly the "blobs" go away. I think this has to do with the "crap" you stuff into the housing to add HID's. Since this lamp isn't like the OEM one you can actually remove the "inlet" wires, and connect them to the "outlet" wires that run to the ballast. 

So when I level the lights next weekend I'm going to remove all the "extra" wires from the back of the projector housing. I'll do this by butt-splicing the wires together and electrical taping them and having them behind the headlamp (with the other Halo & LED wires. I'll probably try and tuck them somewhere so it's not ugly.

I think at that point I can move the bulb around a little and I may have to shim it a little (so it points slightly upward in the projector above the cut-off line). But it's only a few MM so we'll see.

I'll post pictures of my alignment so you can see the light pattern.


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## LS2 MN6 (Jul 14, 2010)

I aligned the lights today, and did the DRL to fog lamps conversion.

The lights do throw some light above the cutoff due to the HID bulbs being too long for the housing design. However at the proper alignment the light isn't blinding to oncoming traffic or the people in front of you. It will create some extra light for cars in front of you (only noticeable to other sedans, SUV's won't even see it). But the amount of light added is no worse than a truck blasting it's lights into a sedan or a sedan having those ultra bright light halogen bulbs.

Overall I'm happy with the conversion. If anyone has questions or wants specific pictures please let me know.


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