# First body work on Lemans rear



## Mr_Roboto (Apr 19, 2013)

This is the body work I'm planning. First thing is that there is some significant bulging on the side, and that the gap at the trunk lid is about 3/8-1/2 inch too wide. I am working on pulling the bumper off, then start trying to get the back corner raised up the 1.5 inches or so I need to. The end of the fender also needs to come out about an inch or so.

What strategy should I try to use to get the quarters lined up with the trunk lid? I think that getting it over to make the body line of the trunk lid line up and getting the end of the fender extended the inch or so I need to make the trunk lid lined up.


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## Mr_Roboto (Apr 19, 2013)

OK pic time



This is the back after I yanked the bumper. She looks really rusty but it's all surface thankfully. There's scale on the frame but it's not rot. Need to find some wire wheeling, primer and paint. Places to go, people to kill though.



You can see the massive, nasty crease in this. I have pulled it back quite a bit in later shots. I have some metal tearing of all things, it's where the 90s were in the stamping so I am surprised but not at the same time. Just simple stress fracturing of metal that has probably been that way for decades.



"intermediate" shot. I've already done a bit of work on it,but there's still a ton more needing to be done.



Another one, you can see where the trunk lid doesn't line up. It needs to come out a little as well I think, it got pushed in some when it got hit. To REALLY get rid of the crease in the top of the quarter, the seam that's the gap for the trunk lid HAS to get fixed. I think it will pull the extra metal in that crease out after I get the trunk opening fixed.



Passenger side of the opening. You can see where it probably needs ~1/4 inch narrowing at the bottom.



Trunk lid profile. I think it got bent about 6" from where the gap starts. The under support has some minor buckling. Using a piece of flat bar for reference.



Here's the drivers side of the lid. Just figure I'd toss it in for posterity.

Thoughts? Remarks? Hate mail?


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## 05GTO (Oct 6, 2004)

Without seeing the complete damage to the rest of the rear end including the tail panel, wheelhouse, trunk pan and frame I would suggest starting with a new deck lid and quarters. 

Here are replacement panels and a deck lid from OPGI, 

Side Panels - Sheet Metal & Body Panels for 1970 GTO @ OPGI.com

http://www.opgi.com/gto/1970/sheet-metal-body-panels/trunk-panels/GP01350/


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## Mr_Roboto (Apr 19, 2013)

Yeah, I think I'm going to take it in and get it measured up at some point, the rear door has a bit of a body line difference. That being said the inside of the trunk area is showing minimal damage except where it looks like the edges where the bumper hit got forced downwards. I am going to need to either find a body shop that will let me use their floor hooks to fix it or install some of my own.


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## Mr_Roboto (Apr 19, 2013)

got a deck lid for the back, it's going to need some work but is straight. Found out that the back is pushed in quite a bit, I'd say 2" in the center and 1" in the outers. Starting to get paranoid about the frame. Does the GTO Restoration Handbook have the dimensions for the 2 door cars in it only or does it have the 4 door/Wagon frame dimensions as well? If not is there a book/guide that would have that info in it?


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## jmt455 (Mar 26, 2012)

Mr_Roboto said:


> got a deck lid for the back, it's going to need some work but is straight. Found out that the back is pushed in quite a bit, I'd say 2" in the center and 1" in the outers. Starting to get paranoid about the frame. Does the GTO Restoration Handbook have the dimensions for the 2 door cars in it only or does it have the 4 door/Wagon frame dimensions as well? If not is there a book/guide that would have that info in it?


Frame dimensions are in the Factory Service Manual.
If you don't have the 68 Pontiac Service Manual, you should get one; I believe it is the most valuable tool in my shop!

Here's the frame dimension page:









Note that the upper dimension chart is for the full-size cars and the bottom chart is for Tempest/LeMans/GTO.

Here is how to read the style/model codes:
3369,3569,3539,3739: all 4-door hardtop and sedan styles
3327, 3537, 3527, 3727, 3737, 4237: all 2-door coupe and hardtop styles
3535,3935: all 4-door station wagons
3567, 3767, 4267: All 2-door convertible styles

Hope that helps!


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## Mr_Roboto (Apr 19, 2013)

jmt455 said:


> Hope that helps!


That's some gold if I ever saw it. It sounds like I need to scare up the FSM. I got the restoration guide and Jim Hand's book last night. Figured I may as well get read up!


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## Instg8ter (Sep 28, 2010)

I agree, I think that Drivers quarter need to be put out to pasture for patch panel material. With those accordion creases in the crown of the body line even if you were able to pull it out it would never be straight. Keep it around if the metals solid, and the lowers are good never know when you'll need to cut a patch for another area.


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## Mr_Roboto (Apr 19, 2013)

Instg8ter said:


> I agree, I think that Drivers quarter need to be put out to pasture for patch panel material. With those accordion creases in the crown of the body line even if you were able to pull it out it would never be straight. Keep it around if the metals solid, and the lowers are good never know when you'll need to cut a patch for another area.


Agreed, but they scrap out for the same price regardless if I hammer on it or not so I may as well play with it a bit. Very much a "challenging" piece to reshape due to creasing and stretching, so I doubt I'll get too much of any where with it but I can still learn something and already have. 

Will probably take my time in looking for the right piece to toss in, and I want to at least take measurements and see how straight the frame is before I start getting excited about putting a panel on to tweak with a frame machine. I suspect at the point I cut and weld a panel in it would really screw some stuff up to do that.


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## Instg8ter (Sep 28, 2010)

Yep the only way we learn is to practice, i am trying to save a GTO hood that looks like it was opened with the jaws of life, welded in a whole new front support and am working on the skin now. Cost me 100.00 and is an original hood in good shape otherwise, if i take my time into account it will still be a 400.00+ hood when done but i will have the knowledge gained and the pride of saying "i did it myself" like everything else on the car.


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## jmt455 (Mar 26, 2012)

Mr_Roboto said:


> That's some gold if I ever saw it. It sounds like I need to scare up the FSM. I got the restoration guide and Jim Hand's book last night. Figured I may as well get read up!


I noticed the frame dimension charts are in the Restoration Guide, too.


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## Mr_Roboto (Apr 19, 2013)

Anyone got a sedan they can take some measurements on for me? I'm looking to know how long it is from the door jam to the end of the fender. Trying to figure out a way to be sure I pull it out to the right point and I don't trust my bumper/mounts.


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