# Oil pan removal on 1968 GTO while engine is still in the car???



## themuzz (Jan 1, 2012)

Is it possible to remove the oil pan while the engine is still in the car? So far I took off the distributor cap, undid the engine mounts, trans mount, and jacked up the engine. I then removed the pan bolts and dropped down the pan. I also took off the oil pump, but I am still getting the pan hung up. Is there a trick or does the engine need to be removed from the car? It looks like if I maybe pull the front main cap on the crank I could get another inch out of it, but I am hesitant to do so at this point if there is an easier trick.

Thanks,
Damian


----------



## GTO JUDGE (May 14, 2005)

Engine has to be raised or remove the transmission x member. Block up the tranny. PITA.


----------



## themuzz (Jan 1, 2012)

The trans seems to already be touching the tunnel. Doesn't seem like I can get anymore out of it, but I'll pull the cross-member and try some more!


----------



## geeteeohguy (Feb 2, 2008)

Trust me. Pull the engine. You will save time, grief, be safer, and be able to detail/reseal the entire engine. I've done it both ways, and pulling the motor is the way to go.


----------



## themuzz (Jan 1, 2012)

I have the car sitting on my pit so I can work from standing under the car instead of laying underneath it, I would hope this would make it easier. I really don't know what to do. This engine probably has less then 3000 miles on it since the complete rebuild. And I don't have the money to completely tear down this entire engine again but it may come to that. I have metal slivers in the oil, and am told that is a bearing shaving apart (can anyone else 2nd that?) also a weird knock to go along with it. The knock goes away at certain RPM's. I guess I am hoping to get a visual of the crank and figure out what went wrong where. Clean and re-install with some new bearings. I was also told that the top end would have been saved from the metal slivers due to the screen on the oil pickup? What do you guys honestly think I should do to this to be as economical as possible? Also it is the numbers matching block that goes with this car that my father purchased brand new off the showroom floor.

Thanks,
Damian


----------



## pontiac (Mar 6, 2011)

front cap and roll the crank journals out of the way and pan will come out. But since you are talking about possible bearing replacements, maybe crank or rod, that could mean turning crank, so for that, engine must come out. Doubt you could be so lucky to just replace bearing and go on. have had pan off for pump, dipstick, rear main, timing gear, but not for crank bearings. sounds like you are too late.


----------



## BearGFR (Aug 25, 2008)

:agree Yeah, it sounds bad. Also even if you get the pan off you have to think about reassembly. Replacing bearings is a job that requires cleanliness and precision, making it very tough to do right without having the engine out.

With all the stuff you've done to get to this point, you've already done 90% of the things you have to do in order to get the engine out anyway.

If you're finding metal shavings, then the block needs a thorough cleaning including removing all the oil passage-way plugs and scrubbing out the passages to make sure there aren't any fragments inside. For the sake of argument, let's say you're able to find the problem, replace the bearings, and get it all buttoned up without pulling the motor. The first time you fire it up, whatever's lurking in those passages is going straight to those new bearings and you could find yourself right back in the same boat. You sure you want to take that chance?

Bear


----------



## themuzz (Jan 1, 2012)

You all make valid points. So what do you think this will cost? A rough estimate that is. Do I have to take the top end off and do all new gaskets or can I stick to doing the bottom end?


----------



## BearGFR (Aug 25, 2008)

Let me recommend to you a book: "How to Build Max-Performance Pontiac V-8s" --- in there appears a section on "Building Your Short Block" that goes into detail regarding the process, including removing/replacing the oil gallery plugs and cleaning. It's available from many sources, including Barnes & Noble (left-handed plug because Mrs. Bear used to work there  )

You could get lucky, but my opinion in your situation is that the whole engine needs to come out, be completely torn down (oil passage plugs removed), and thoroughly cleaned. That's the only way to be sure that there are no metal fragments hiding in passages and waiting to tear up your new bearings. Cost depends on how much of the work you can do yourself. Parts wise, plan on at least all new bearings (mains and rods), gaskets, assembly lube, and oil passage plugs (I like replacing all the pressed in plugs with threaded screw-in plugs). In addition to 'normal' tools you'll need some long skinny bottle brushes in order to reach into and scrub out all the oil passages.
Inspect the cam bearings to see if any have been scored and also need replacing, likewise the cam lobes and lifter faces. Having metal fragments circulating around inside an engine definitely falls into the "bad thing" category.

Bear


----------



## geeteeohguy (Feb 2, 2008)

The main "cost" here is your labor. How mechanical are you? To remove the engine and disassemble it is not expensive. To have it cleaned up is not expensive. If it just needs new bearings and a crank clean up, not expensive. You may get lucky and only have to splurge for an engine gasket set and some bearing inserts. Again, the main "expense" is your labor. If you can do all the work yourself (except pressing the cam bearings in after the machine shop cleans up the block) you may only be out 300-500 bucks.


----------

