# Pedders full suspension kit? reviews??



## zainbabar (Jul 28, 2015)

Hello! 2005 M6
has anyone gotten a full Pedders kit? Coils, bushings, sway and strut bars.

thanks


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## svede1212 (Nov 1, 2005)

Seeing as Pedders USA has been bankrupt and gone for a while now it's unlikely you'll find one. There have been and still are other vendors with products just as good. I run a hybrid Energy Suspension, Super Pro, Lovells, Koni, Pedders and Hotchkis combo and am very happy with it.


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## papousr58 (Oct 16, 2014)

i got bit went to springs, bushings,koni adjustable shocks etc.andy at kollar took alot of money but its well worth it.all new gto owners should thank god theres people like this that make or supply parts for these cars.thanks andy.


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## svede1212 (Nov 1, 2005)

It costs quite a lot to do a complete suspension. I did it in stages and most parts were gotten either on sale or a long time ago when they were cheaper and I still spent a little over $2,000 on parts. I did all the install myself which will save you a lot.


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## btrbandit (Aug 18, 2015)

I'm new here and have an 05 GTO for a daily driver. It has almost 100k miles and I live down a dirt road. I'm looking to replace almost all the suspension. I searched the threads here a bit before posting but I'd like a fresh recommendation on what is available right now. I'm not looking to lower the car and I still have the factory 17" wheels. Thanks in advance!


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## svede1212 (Nov 1, 2005)

Lovells, Whiteline and Energy Suspension


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## btrbandit (Aug 18, 2015)

So far I'm thinking about going with King springs, stock in the rear and -.5 in the front, Whiteline strut mounts and sway bars, and Energy Suspension bushings. Would you recommend Koni or KYB for the rest, or maybe even an OEM brand? Depending on my (probably) bonus, I might even upgrade to some Harland Sharps or a cat-back. Thanks again for the input.


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## svede1212 (Nov 1, 2005)

Kings are pretty stiff. IMHO you can be too stiff on he street. It isn't the ride although that's a factor but traction. On a smooth track stiff is good. On an uneven street too stiff makes the wheels come lose contact. I have Koni shocks and set on stiff I can feel the back end hop over expansion joints. If that's on a curve you lose partial traction. That's why I like the Lovells (IMHO 200 drop all around is perfect). They are stiffer than stock but compliant. I can adjust the shocks/struts up a notch if need be but usually run full soft.

Don't know what you have done so far power-wise but both the HS and catback are extremely low bang for the buck if at all.


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## Qnko (Jun 8, 2014)

I have kings on mine. Stock height rear and 0.5 drop front. They are stiff but i never had problem on a bumpy road and i mostly drive my car there (twisty canyon road). I guess keeping it stock height gives me good suspension travel and tires are always planted (lower springs usually have higher spring rates too).I also have koni adjustables on medium setting. I used to have a c5 that i bought lowered on some cheap coilovers and that car was so stiff that was scary to drive in the turns.


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## Qnko (Jun 8, 2014)

You also mentioned sway bars. I don't think they are needed on the street. I got some hotchkis adjustable on mine. They were hard to install even on a hoist and i did not feel any difference.


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## btrbandit (Aug 18, 2015)

Thank you both for the awesome info. My car is bone stock except for a Volant CAI. I'm hoping to have around $2500 to spend so I'm trying to get some quality parts back on the car to keep it another 100k miles. By far, the best car I've ever owned. It is my daily driver and I'm going to try to keep it that way (unless I find a nice Solstice GXP).


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## svede1212 (Nov 1, 2005)

Qnko said:


> You also mentioned sway bars. I don't think they are needed on the street. I got some hotchkis adjustable on mine. They were hard to install even on a hoist and i did not feel any difference.


I agree that sways on the front don't seem to matter much with good springs. If I were to do it over I'd only get the rear sway which I feel does something and skip the front which was truly a PITA to install. 

I am sold on a 20mm drop though. With full poly bushings your camber is still in spec, you can use regular length dampers, the travel is still good (most stock cars are 20mm or more from saggy springs) and the lowered center of gravity has benefits that even a stiffer, stock height spring can't give.

OP, if you're interested in power and not hurt fuel economy I'd ditch the Volant which is one of the worst performing intakes and get something like a Xair OTR, put on some long tube headers and keep your stock exhaust and get a good tune. You'll get better performance and gas mileage, win-win


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## btrbandit (Aug 18, 2015)

I was warned off headers because they never stop leaking. Is this for the old Pontiac engines or are there modern gaskets that prevent leaking on the LS2? I know this is the wrong area for exhaust questions but are the Pacesetter adequate for the cost versus the Hooks? Do the headers make the exhaust note louder/different? I live in a very rural area and I don't want to wake up my neighbors every time I start my car at 3am.


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## HP11 (Apr 11, 2009)

btrbandit said:


> I live in a very rural area and I don't want to wake up my neighbors every time I start my car at 3am.


You're probably waking them up now. These cars are fairly loud even with stock exhaust.


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## svede1212 (Nov 1, 2005)

The stock GM MLS gaskets are very good and with a header that has a fat, stout plate they seal very well. I'm not sure about Pacesetters as I haven't seen them in person. If you're short on bucks keep an eye on "For Sale" here and on other boards. They come up all the time and then you can pick up a set of better stainless ones rather than settling for the cheapest ones made. They do change the tone and volume a little but it's not nearly as much as a cat back and sounds good. A good cat back BTW costs nearly as much as a good set of headers yet yields no significant HP. Headers and dyno tune can net you 25-30 RWHP.


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