# distributor



## Chris-Austria (Dec 23, 2010)

Hi!

When I install the new distributor cap and spark plug wires next week, do I have to place the wires on exactly the same position like they were before or is only the sequence important?
I know the firing order and I have found this picture:








Can I start with "1" whereever I like? On the picture it starts at about 7 o clock.. what if I start at 12 o clock with "1" and connect it with the correct sequence? (1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2)

And if it matters, how can I find out, where to start? At the moment my cylinder one is connected at about 5 o clock on the picture and the sequence is 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2 counterclockwise.

Chris


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## freethinker (Nov 14, 2009)

Chris-Austria said:


> Hi!
> 
> When I install the new distributor cap and spark plug wires next week, do I have to place the wires on exactly the same position like they were before or is only the sequence important?
> I know the firing order and I have found this picture:
> ...


only the sequence matters. you can start no. one where ever it works best for you. just remember the rotation goes counter clockwise.


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## Chris-Austria (Dec 23, 2010)

That's what I thought, only needed to be sure before I replace everything.
Thank you!


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## BearGFR (Aug 25, 2008)

Chris-Austria said:


> That's what I thought, only needed to be sure before I replace everything.
> Thank you!


Sort of... you also have to take into consideration which contact inside the distributor cap the rotor is pointing to when #1 cylinder (drivers side front) is near TDC on the compression stroke. Whichever contact the rotor points to, that's where you put #1 plug wire. Then follow the rest of the firiing order counter-clockwise from that point. So, you can't just put #1 "anywhere", not without also removing and re-installing the distributor with #1 cylinder at TDC/compression to "place" the rotor tip where you want #1 to be.

Bear


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## Chris-Austria (Dec 23, 2010)

I have ordered a rebuild kit.. rotor and cap are included.
Maybe I should remember the point where the #1 cylinder wire is now, mount the new rotor and cap and start at the same place with #1 where it was before? I'm searching for the easiest and safest way to make this on my own! 
By changing the rotor I can't install the new one any other way i removed the old one, right? So the new one will point at the same position the old one did and that's where now and after installing the new rotor I'll connect plug wire to cylinder no.1 to the cap.
(The rotor always points to #1 cylinder after shutting the engine off?)

After changing all wires, plugs and cap+rotor I'll go to the shop where the timing will be set by turning the distributor and if necessary by changing springs+bushings.


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## freethinker (Nov 14, 2009)

Chris-Austria said:


> I have ordered a rebuild kit.. rotor and cap are included.
> Maybe I should remember the point where the #1 cylinder wire is now, mount the new rotor and cap and start at the same place with #1 where it was before? I'm searching for the easiest and safest way to make this on my own!
> By changing the rotor I can't install the new one any other way i removed the old one, right? So the new one will point at the same position the old one did and that's where now and after installing the new rotor I'll connect plug wire to cylinder no.1 to the cap.
> (The rotor always points to #1 cylinder after shutting the engine off?)
> ...


"(The rotor always points to #1 cylinder after shutting the engine off?)"

no it does not. you can put no. 1 where ever you want on the cap but bear is also right that it still has to match up with tdc of the no.1 piston. it sounds like you are over your head on this job. i think the best thing to do is just as you describe. replace the rotor and then install the new cap on the distributor and then disconnect the wires from the old cap one at a time and put them in the new cap in the same position. that should keep you out of trouble.


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## dimitri (Feb 13, 2009)

I like to use a little bit of dielectric grease. After installing the spark plugs I put a little bit on the metal nipples of the spark plug ends. I also put some on the spark plug wire metal ends where it goes into the cap. I also like to spray the inside of the spark plug boot with Silicone spray oil. It helps the boot go on a lot easier. Silicone spray oil evaporates quickly and is compatible with rubber.


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## jetstang (Nov 5, 2008)

You have to install the replacement cap and rotor in exactly the same location as the original including the wires. Where are you at in Austria, or are you there? My GF is from Germany, and we go there every year, Stuttgart.


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## Chris-Austria (Dec 23, 2010)

I will replace the rotor 1:1 and after that I'll connect the new wires to the new cap on the same position they were before (starting with #1 at about 5 o'clock)
I live about 120 miles south from Stuttgart... maybe you know "Bregenz"?


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## jetstang (Nov 5, 2008)

I know that is a beautiful area, we flew into Zurich, and did travel around the Black Forest. Incredible skiing there, I'm envious..


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## Chris-Austria (Dec 23, 2010)

I like it here, but I'm not a fan of snow...
If you come to Austria and need some information just ask or meet me, I can tell you some beautiful places to visit.


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## jetstang (Nov 5, 2008)

We're going back in May for her Dad's 80th B-day. Should be fun, would love to travel more while there, but the price of gas is outrages.. I lived in Bitburg for 3 years while in the military, I love Germany and Europe, just not France, lol.. I've been to Salsburg, and Innsbruck, but that's not your area.. The snow and the roads make for some white knuckled driving..


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## Chris-Austria (Dec 23, 2010)

Gas is cheaper in Austria than in Germany.. but far away from "cheap". The best thing in Germany are the none-limited highways, but it can for sure be dangerous driving around with 250 kph or more..
I have a flat in Innsbruck, so I could say that's also my area


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## BearGFR (Aug 25, 2008)

Chris-Austria said:


> I have ordered a rebuild kit.. rotor and cap are included.
> Maybe I should remember the point where the #1 cylinder wire is now, mount the new rotor and cap and start at the same place with #1 where it was before? I'm searching for the easiest and safest way to make this on my own!


Just keep in mind that there is a relationship between the position of the crankshaft and the camshaft (so that the valves open and close at the correct time relative to the piston position in the cylinder), and that there is also a relationship between the position of the distributor rotor and the camshaft (so that the rotor "connects" with the correct cylinder that has just been filled with air/fuel and is ready to be ignited). All of these relationships can be "figured out" starting from scratch, but it's much easier to preserve things the way they already are.



> By changing the rotor I can't install the new one any other way i removed the old one, right? So the new one will point at the same position the old one did and that's where now and after installing the new rotor I'll connect plug wire to cylinder no.1 to the cap.
> (The rotor always points to #1 cylinder after shutting the engine off?)


True, the rotor can only be installed correctly in one orientation. Where it points after shutting down the engine though is random. You can't depend on it being always in the same postion after stopping the engine.



> After changing all wires, plugs and cap+rotor I'll go to the shop where the timing will be set by turning the distributor and if necessary by changing springs+bushings.


As long as you don't loosen the clamp that holds the distributor to the block so that the distributor body is turned, you can replace the wires, rotor, spark plugs, and cap and it will not change your ignition timing any. If it's correct now, it will remain correct after changing all those parts.

Bear


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## Chris-Austria (Dec 23, 2010)

The timing isn't correct yet. He wanted to wait for the springs and bushings and make everything at one time.. install the new parts and set the timing. But if I can replace all parts (except the timing relevant parts) by myself first, it will safe time and money 

I'll install everything exactly in the same position I removed the old parts. The connection next to the "MSD sign" on the cap is now #1.. and because I don't move anything I think it will also be there on the new cap and the firing order is written on the manifold..


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## BearGFR (Aug 25, 2008)

Chris-Austria said:


> The timing isn't correct yet. He wanted to wait for the springs and bushings and make everything at one time.. install the new parts and set the timing. But if I can replace all parts (except the timing relevant parts) by myself first, it will safe time and money
> 
> I'll install everything exactly in the same position I removed the old parts. The connection next to the "MSD sign" on the cap is now #1.. and because I don't move anything I think it will also be there on the new cap and the firing order is written on the manifold..


Sounds like a plan... 

Bear


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## Chris-Austria (Dec 23, 2010)

Hope the plan will work 
First I'll regap the spark plugs, mark the wires and distributor, change the parts, put it together like it was before and hope no parts will be ejected from the valve cover when I fire it up.

Only thing I thought... if the rotor now is pointing to for example cylinder #5.. I will connect cylinder #5 to this position on the distributor and not start with #1 whereever the rotor points at?


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## BearGFR (Aug 25, 2008)

Chris-Austria said:


> Hope the plan will work
> First I'll regap the spark plugs, mark the wires and distributor, change the parts, put it together like it was before and hope no parts will be ejected from the valve cover when I fire it up.
> 
> Only thing I thought... if the rotor now is pointing to for example cylinder #5.. I will connect cylinder #5 to this position on the distributor and not start with #1 whereever the rotor points at?


Correct. The easiest way to do it is to remove and replace one wire at a time. Remove one, install the new one in it's place ---- repeat until you've replaced them all.

Bear


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## Chris-Austria (Dec 23, 2010)

Everything done!
The distributor had to come out for reconfiguration. He marked the point how it was in before with the rotor. Plugs and wires have been replaced by myself before, everything worked fine. The engine now runs a lot better!! HC goes to 250 and CO is 3% after he also adjusted the carb.
Thank you for helping me!


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