# '67 GTO won't start w/o spoon feeding carb



## redgoat67 (Sep 23, 2011)

My 1967 GTO 400 2bbl took a notion not to start recently. It seems to act like it is not getting fuel. I can spray carb cleaner in carb and make sure choke is closed and it will start up right away and run for 5 seconds. Repeated pumping of accelerator has no affect. If I spray carb cleaner again it will run again for 5 seconds and stop. I rebuilt the carb last January and the car ran flawlessly ever since--until today. I think if I were to squirt gas manually into the carb with a squirt bottle it would continue to run. I have examined the carb throat and manually operated the throttle to see if I can see a stream of gas--none seen. Could it be a bad mechanical fuel pump? It is probably 35 years old. Or could my internal carb passages/jets have clogged up that quickly with ethanol gas? I always use Premium gas, Sta Bil plus another additive to my tank to discourage phase separation. Can anyone suggest a solution?
Oh BTW, I am the original owner of this classic convertible.


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## Instg8ter (Sep 28, 2010)

Check the fuel filters(s) first, then all rubber lines in the engine bay for any cracking. There is also short rubber line at the gas tank where the pick-up goes in. The rubber lines will get small cracks that wont leak but will suck air in. You can check the pump by disconnecting the gas line at the carb and the coil so it wont fire and cranking it with the line in a gas can, if its pushing gas your pumps probably good.


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## jmt455 (Mar 26, 2012)

^X2.
Excellent advice.
You'll probably find a split in one of the soft lines between the pick-up unit and the pump.
It's probably a good idea to replace all the soft lines.


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## redgoat67 (Sep 23, 2011)

Thanks for the suggestions. I replaced the round brass barrel fuel filter when I rebuilt the carb so I will examine the 2 fuel hoses first as soon as the weather breaks and I can crawl underneath the car. I know for a fact that the fuel hoses in question are the originals and thus 46 years old. Will report back with my findings.


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## geeteeohguy (Feb 2, 2008)

I've run into the same issue. Was the line at the fuel tank. Like trying to suck thru a straw with holes in it. If you still have the same issue after you replace the rubber lines, suspect the fuel pump. It should pull fuel from the tank and push it to the carb pretty quickly. Ethanol in fuel plays heck with all the fuel system components on these cars. Lets see some pictures of your ride!!


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## Matthew (Feb 11, 2011)

Sir, just curious... as you are the original owner. Did you buy that beauty from Paddock Pontiac in there in Dayton? Matt


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## Matthew (Feb 11, 2011)

And sir, if the rubber lines are 46 years old, they need to be replaced. If you wanted to eliminate the fuel pump as being the problem, you could disconnect the fuel inlet hose on the pump, hook up a rubber fuel line there and put it in a can of gas. If it starts, you now know it is not the pump. Just an option. Best of luck, Matt


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## redgoat67 (Sep 23, 2011)

Bought it brand new in March, 1967, from Rodgers Pontiac here in Dayton. Paid about $3,400! Pictures are in my profile section. Will definitely check out hoses as soon as temp gets a bit warmer. My garage is not heated. Thanks for the tip. I'm glad this problem did not happen away from home.


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## redgoat67 (Sep 23, 2011)

Finally got around to replacing both rubber fuel hoses, one at fuel tank and one at fuel pump. Regrettably, I still have the same problem as before. At least I know it's not the fuel hoses. Having said that, I suspect my last option to repair is to replace the fuel pump as I know the carb is working properly. I rebuilt it last January. I replaced the pump currently on the car 38 years ago at 93,000. I now have 123,000. It would not surprise me it the diaphragm is shot partly due to age and ethanol gas. In any event, would anyone agree that this is my next step?


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## trues607 (Dec 15, 2012)

Have you tried a fuel pressure gauge to see if there was any fuel going to the carb? I would think you will need to replace the pump anyways.

Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App


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## geeteeohguy (Feb 2, 2008)

You could test the current pump for volume and pressure, if you are so inclined. Pressure should be about 5 psi (you will need a gauge) and volume should be about a quart of fuel in 15 seconds of cranking. From what you describe, the pump is not pulling fuel adequately from the tank, so yes, It is very possibly the culprit. The new fuels are alcohol diluted (which is bad for these fuel systems) and are more volatile as well, so they evaporate quickly. Good luck and keep us posted.


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## geeteeohguy (Feb 2, 2008)

As a second thought, the 2bbl carbs on these engines are not known for leaking down like the 4bbl engines are. The tripower on my '65 can sit for a couple of weeks and will start right up due to fuel still being in the float bowl of the center carb. Your 2bbl carb should not dry out in a day or two. If it is, it needs looking into. (float level, leaks, etc.) If this is a problem after the car sits for a week or more, but not at other times, not likely the carb.


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## BearGFR (Aug 25, 2008)

redgoat67 said:


> Finally got around to replacing both rubber fuel hoses, one at fuel tank and one at fuel pump. Regrettably, I still have the same problem as before. At least I know it's not the fuel hoses. Having said that, I suspect my last option to repair is to replace the fuel pump as I know the carb is working properly. I rebuilt it last January. I replaced the pump currently on the car 38 years ago at 93,000. I now have 123,000. It would not surprise me it the diaphragm is shot partly due to age and ethanol gas. In any event, would anyone agree that this is my next step?


Yeah, I would agree. They aren't hard to test as has been mentioned, but from what you're describing a bad pump would be my prime suspect.

Bear


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## redgoat67 (Sep 23, 2011)

FINAL UPDATE. . . I got a new fuel pump and thought I could install it by lying on my back in the garage and working below the engine. Determined it was going to be too difficult to replace w/o a hydraulic lift. So how do you get a car that is not running to a facility w/o a tow? I decided that as a last resort, I would just replace the brass barrel fuel filter anyway in the hopes that maybe this might solve my problem. Replaced it and the old goat fired right up although rough for a while. It settled down soon a ran like it should. I cannot believe that the filter that I replaced in January when I rebuilt my carb was all clogged up. In any event, I will not have to replace my fuel pump now. I may replace it next summer when I have access to a lift just as preventive maintenance. It is possible that the 2 fuel hoses that I replaced along with the fuel filter caused all my grief.
Thanks to all responders for your suggestions. These forums are great.


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## geeteeohguy (Feb 2, 2008)

I've always managed to do the pump from the top, never needed a lift. Those sintered bronze filters are not very forgiving, and will gum up with today's alcohol infused fuels. I would install a large in line filter in the rubber line right before the fuel pump. You'll never need to change out the bronze filter again. Glad you fixed it!!


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## Instg8ter (Sep 28, 2010)

Instg8ter said:


> Check the fuel filters(s) first


Glad thats all it was, like GeeTee said put an inline one in before the pump. I get the clear plastic ones cheap at the swapmeets. Makes it easy to see when they are dirty and a 3 minute fix to swap one out. I also run a good eddelbrock filter in the fuel log before the carb and the inline has saved me having to replace that for 30.00 a pop.


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