# Fuel Line Install with Body on



## jtwoods4 (Dec 22, 2011)

I have a 69 GTO with the standard 3/8 inch fuel line. I am building up the engine so I need to install new 1/2 inch fuel lines to feed the higher horsepower engine. Today I crawled under the car and looked at the routing for the stock fuel line.

Has anybody successfully replaced the stock fuel line while the body is on the frame? It looks like it may not be possible to install a new full line in the factory location without removing the body from the frame.. Arrrrg!

Has anyone done this or had experience with this?


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## the65gto (Oct 9, 2008)

Just finished a fuel line install this past saturday. Its not easy, had my son come to help me and even though we planned it out to do the section over the rear cross member first, we had to remove it and start with the front section first. My routing goes up thru a hole in the frame and kinda bends around before it comes out a hole close to the fuel pump. No amount of twisting etc would allow that end to come thru. Come to find out that there was another hole midway up the frame. Used an electrical "fish" tape to go down and come out at the bottom where we tied/taped the fuel line and tried to pull it thru. In spite of push and pull it would not go thru that inner hole. Found a small hole in the frame, not welded at the factory, that was able to stick a long thin screwdriver thru and "pop" it went thru. Next had to remove the E-brake cable and after an hour of pushing bending etc finally got it to snap in the (new) factory brake line clips and up and over the rear member. Tiny screw there to hold a clamp for the line, about 3/4" clearance to get that bugger out. My line came in a box from the Mfg which had to be bent around to make it small enough for UPS to deliver. Bent it back straight as I thought it should have been but might have added to the chore. The fuel line next to the fuel pump extends about 1.5 inches out of the hole in the frame and after we had pulled/bent/adjusted the remaining clamps etc, that end slipped back into the hole. More pushing etc got it back out. Took both of us about 4 hours. This is on the garage floor using jack stands etc. Sure would have been nice to have a lift.  But yes it can be done.


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## FlambeauHO (Nov 24, 2011)

I lost my breath reading that post, had to take a nap and finish it just now. Lol


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## jtwoods4 (Dec 22, 2011)

Did you use a stainless steel line? How did you get the line up and over the rear frame to make the turn when it heads for the fuel tank????

Sent from my HTC Vision using AutoGuide.Com Free App


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## BearGFR (Aug 25, 2008)

Possible to do, but difficult --- I did mine that way. I wound up unbolting the body mounts and lifting the rear of the body up just a couple inches in order to get clearance to snake it up and over the crossmember next to the spring perch. I should probably note that I'd already had the body completely off the car several times and it was still pretty "bare" at the time. If yours is completely "together" then you'll definitely want to remove both front fenders, inner fenders, and hood before you try the "unbolt and lift" trick, otherwise you're going to bend stuff.

Bear


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## the65gto (Oct 9, 2008)

jtwoods4 said:


> Did you use a stainless steel line? How did you get the line up and over the rear frame to make the turn when it heads for the fuel tank????
> 
> Sent from my HTC Vision using AutoGuide.Com Free App


Yes I used SS. It came with some rubber "bra's" over the end of the line, but I further wrapped it with one round of masking tape and then on the end towards the fuel pump, I used safety wire to attach to the electrical "fish" tape , made about 8 turns on each end of the wire right behind the bra covered masking tape and then wrapped that with grey duct tape. It was pretty sturdy but a son of a gun to remove that duct tape. WD-40 seemed to turn the duct tape to mush and it came right off. Today I spent the second day in the hot tub trying to get the krinks out of my back and neck The line over the rear cross member seemed to slip in between the member and the body ok, it was the Bra on the end of the line that would not fit. I happen to have a short flat type crow bar that allowed it to go thru with a "slight" bit of clearincing (new word) I could have removed the rubber cap I guess, but did not want to get 40+ year old crud in the line. STill going to blow out the line before final hook up.:lol: Being on the garage floor with limited height, most of my injuries are to the back of my head after "relaxing" and find out I am laying on a wrench or bolt or some other torturest (another new word) device.


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## jtwoods4 (Dec 22, 2011)

LOL, good job.


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## dedlund400 (May 17, 2020)

I have a 1970 Convertible that has the fuel line go up the right hand side of the frame ! How does it cross over in the front to reach the fuel pump on the left side ? Is the 1969 different from the 1970 ? I am assuming it uses rubber hose since nobody offers a metal line for that connection.


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## pontrc (Mar 18, 2020)

dedlund400 said:


> I have a 1970 Convertible that has the fuel line go up the right hand side of the frame ! How does it cross over in the front to reach the fuel pump on the left side ? Is the 1969 different from the 1970 ? I am assuming it uses rubber hose since nobody offers a metal line for that connection.


On my 72 that is the fuel return line on the right side,routes on the backside of the main crossmember to the pump


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## dedlund400 (May 17, 2020)

pontrc said:


> On my 72 that is the fuel return line on the right side,routes on the backside of the main crossmember to the pump
> [/QUOTE
> 
> Thanks, Thats what I thought, but it sounds weird !


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