# 6 speed shifter



## dent (Feb 10, 2009)

My 6 speed shifter feels like its gummed up. It does not have a good gate feel. Any one having this problem and what is the cure??

Dennis


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## B-ville Goat (Oct 5, 2008)

You could try changing the fluid. Mine got much smoother when I installed Royal Purple Synchro Max. If not maybe something got into the shifter workings?


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## svede1212 (Nov 1, 2005)

the gumminess could be the shifter but the "gates" are completely in the transmission. there are *NO* gates in a shifter. all shifters when taken out will freely rotate in a circle. i'd do what he said about changing the tranny fluid. RP works but i've tried both and mine at least shifter smoother with Mobil 1 ATF.

PS, drop in a GMM shifter regardless. the difference is amazing


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## dent (Feb 10, 2009)

thanks guys, I'll give it a try. Since I'm new to the site, what are my options on the ****ers replacement??? 

Dennis
Collierville,tn


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## dent (Feb 10, 2009)

also, since I see different stuff on the mods, what are the best way to fix the supension.. Pedders all the way, differnece parts and pieces??? 


dennis


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## svede1212 (Nov 1, 2005)

first on the shifters there are only two i've seen that are relatively free of problems and work very well. they are the GMM Ripshift and the Billet. many, many people have had problems with the Hurst and B&M. i know some may chime in with "no problems" but then they're bucking the odds. the GMM is has been around for many years and is extremely simple and slick. the 2-3 shift is pushing the stick forward, the shifter does the rest. a few have broken the handle at the top bolt but IMHO it was because the bolt loosened up due to no red loc-tite which elongated the hole. the Billet is the new kid and has shorter throws but uses the linkages much like the stock and there have been a few reports of sloppiness starting to crop up after a while


on suspension i have my opinion, which seems to fly in the face of "conventional wisdom" (my pappy used to say it rarely had much wisdom), and that is to part out the suspension mostly with the best pricing you can find. the arguments with the high priced spread is they have great service (they do but so do others), it makes the ride amazing (and they've never tried any other one to compare), they are the only one to warrant "race applications" (like somebody turns in their broken part and tells them they were dragging when it broke) or that you need to "match" the suspension (like they're some sort of NASCAR interior designer). i think for most if not all of us that's bunk.

here's a partial list of the major players:
Pedders
Lovells
Noltec
Super Pro
Energy Suspension
Prothane
Harrop
King
Koni
Monroe

here's a wish list of most important parts:

*front radius rod bushings* are liquid filled and frequently leak. Pedders, Lovells and Super Pro make poly replacements that make a world of difference. i have Super Pro that i got for $120 a few years ago. Lovells is the next cheapest. Noltec is about the same as Lovells and then most expensive again is Pedders

*front strut mounts* seem to collapse on these cars. both Pedders and Lovells make good one. Lovells are poly while Pedders are urethane. Lovells also come with the strut bearings which need to be replaced so it's a better value.

stock *springs* are total weak sauce. once again Pedders and Lovells make comparatively similar springs with Lovells cheaper. King makes a great spring too and you can get them with quite a bit higher spring rate

*Shocks and struts* come next. Pedders, Lovells and Monroe make direct fitment ones. i have Koni adjustables front and rear with the fronts requiring you to use part of your stock strut housing to mount it. it's not a big deal and a lot of guys run them. pick your poison

*Rear subframe* (or x-member or crossmember) *bushings* help with wheel hop. you have the usual suspects along with Energy Suspension. i and may others use the Energy bush here. it's about half the price and in some ways it seems to work better so to me it's a no brainer.

the *rest of the bushes *can be replaced depending on what you're trying to accomplish. once again IMHO there isn't much difference in one poly over the other. *rear inner control* arms help with wheel hop as well as a *differential insert*.* sway bushes* help there as well as *endlink bushes*. then there's rear *outer control arm bushes* which seem to help with rear camber and in the *front 'rear' radius rod and front control arm bushes*.

lastly there's *sway bars* altho the stock bar with new bushings on it and the endlinks isn't too bad. if you can't afford both get the rear

in the end even parting it out you can spend around $2,000 but that's a lot cheaper than part for part with the "kits"


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## dent (Feb 10, 2009)

thanks for all the info, going to check it all out..

Dennis


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## Poolshark1321 (May 18, 2009)

I understand what your saying Svede... building your own kit with the best price for each part.

You said it was around 2000 even parting it out... 

Wretched Motorsports

Thats 2000 and its a kit... seems to have everything you mentioned... or most of it.


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## svede1212 (Nov 1, 2005)

Poolshark1321 said:


> I understand what your saying Svede... building your own kit with the best price for each part.
> 
> You said it was around 2000 even parting it out...
> 
> ...


it isn't exactly apples to apple but that's close. the strut tower bar isn't a high on the list item and the pedders kit has a steering rack bush and bolts too. there are some parts that i like that are different tho. i like the poly strut mounts and no bush front end links that Lovells has and i like the Energy subframe bushings. in that kit is also the zero drop springs and i think that a 1/2" to 3/4" drop (13-20mm) spring gives a better stance and handling. i shopped and waited for the best deals and did everything in that kit plus got Koni adjustables and a Harrop cover for about the same (the Harrop is normally over $400). patience is a virtue


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## Poolshark1321 (May 18, 2009)

I was under the impression that lowering the GTO's wasnt a really good idea because of possible tire rub issues and the fact that its already low... easy to scrape if your not too careful. Dont you lose some ride quality as well?

Theres a track II version with a 1/2 drop in back 3/4 in front too I believe.

I was thinking about doing what you were saying though instead of getting a whole kit... essential bushings first.

either an energy master set

04-06 Pontiac GTO Energy Suspension Master Bushing Kit :eBay Motors (item 310133509661 end time Jun-03-09 09:09:27 PDT)

or this prothane master set

Prothane Total Kits - JBK Performance - Drifters @ Heart

with a few extras...

2004-2006 Pontiac GTO LOVELLS Radius Rod Rear Bushings:eBay Motors (item 300313996585 end time Jun-08-09 15:50:27 PDT)

2004-2006 Pontiac GTO LOVELLS Front Castor Adjustable Radius Rod Bushings-PAIR

I figured thats a nice start... full set of bushings, then later on grab some nice struts and shocks... new springs also.

Im still looking around for front strut mounts... seems like my best bet is to call Lovells and place an order for all the extras that dont come with the master kits.


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