# What To Replace When The Body Is Off The Frame



## Researcher (Jun 29, 2020)

I should be getting the body off my 67 GTO convertible soon and I’ll be starting the frame restoration. The current plan is to strip it down, sandblast, and repaint but I have never done it before. Here is what I am planning on replacing so far. 

Body bushings are shot so those will be new. 

Steering and suspension. If the metal itself is good I’ll just replace the bushings might keep the springs and shocks. 

The fuel line is like 5 different pieces jerry rigged together. That will be replaced. 

Brake lines most likely replaced but maybe cleaned up and painted. 

Various clips im sure may need restored or replaced. 

Need a new diff seal and I may do axel seals as well. 

The car was running and driving so I dont think I’ll redo the brakes. I may just repaint the outside pieces. 

Same goes for the motor and transmission. May just clean and repaint. Although the hurst shifter needs the bushings replaced and the linkage is loose. 

Radiator hose will be checked and most likely replaced since I have them off. 

Exhaust was also newer but not a huge fan of the sound. It may change. I have a set of new “dougs headers” available for $450 from another GTO owner here who decided to go LS. Dont know if I’ll go that route though. Thoughts?

Also is it easier to just buy the fastener kits and replace all the rusty bolts with new ones? Ive been looking into those. 

Anything else I’m missing? Looking to build a nice driver quality GTO and in general I’m a “while im in there and its easy replace it”.


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## O52 (Jan 27, 2019)

Inland Tube has the best bushings. Ames for the _Correct_ hardware kit. 
DO NOT USE AN IMPACT TO REMOVE THE BOLTS! 
It looks like you may have a West Coast car so the bolts may not be to badly corroded but use a 1/2 socket set with a big breaker bar. Prelube the threads as best you can for a few weeks before you do the job. And go slow. 
There are alignment holes on the drivers side frame and body to align the body and frame when reinstalling. I think I used 3/8" copper pipe. When removing the bolts, there may be some that are shorter than others. Keep track where they come from. 














Unless you are racing, the headers will be a big headache. '67 Ram Air manifolds are just as good for the street and you'll won't have any clearance problems. And they're cheaper than $450.

Inspect the mounting bolts for the steering gear. The frame has a pocket in that area where water collects. There is a frame drain but its very small and often plugged up. You may be surprised (one way or the other) of their condition.

After the frame is blasted, and before painting, carefully inspect for cracks. Especially around the front suspension mounting points and all factory welds. 





















Always inspect the brakes! Replace the rear axle bearings and seals. 

Again, you may be surprised at what you may find. I thought my 68 would be in great shape since it was pampered since new, And I was surprised at what I found after 52 years.


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## Reseacher (Jun 28, 2020)

O52 said:


> Inland Tube has the best bushings. Ames for the _Correct_ hardware kit.
> DO NOT USE AN IMPACT TO REMOVE THE BOLTS!
> It looks like you may have a West Coast car so the bolts may not be to badly corroded but use a 1/2 socket set with a big breaker bar. Prelube the threads as best you can for a few weeks before you do the job. And go slow.
> There are alignment holes on the drivers side frame and body to align the body and frame when reinstalling. I think I used 3/8" copper pipe. When removing the bolts, there may be some that are shorter than others. Keep track where they come from.
> ...


I'll look at Inline Tube for my bushings. Thanks for the tip and the pictures, they help.

Its been on the west coast for some time but started life in Minnesota so its need more help than I am used to seeing for a car out here.


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## PontiacJim (Dec 29, 2012)

Install new Upper & Lower rear control arm bushings, a rear sway bar kit, new springs & shocks, new coil spring isolators, Upper& Lower rear control arm braces IF your car does not already have them from the factory. New rubber brake line. E-brake cables. 

New rubber line for the gas tank. Add a 1/4" gas return line if you do not already have one. Need the corresponding gas sender/top with the extra 1/4" nipple for the return line. Pull and inspect gas sender float/"sock" - replace the "sock." New O-ring seal when you re-install the gas tank sender. 

Check the ends of the trans crossmember for rotted "ears." Get new rubber for the ends. New trans mount.

Rebuild the entire front end - bushings, ball joints, tie-rod ends and sleeves, idler arm, steering link, front springs. front shocks, sway bar bushings and links. Add front disc brakes. for stopping and safety.


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## Researcher (Jun 29, 2020)

Thanks for the info. I will check Inline Tube as I was going to go with a Moog kit. All the rubber will be replaced its probably toast. Thanks for the heads up on the springs and shocks. Also thanks for the comment on the gas return, I hadnt thought of that.


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## O52 (Jan 27, 2019)

For the suspension, I'd go with Proforged. Proforged listens to the enthusiasts and has reproduced parts that Moog no longer carries. 








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Moog quality is just as good but selection may be limited. Its a matter of preference.


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## 1969 tempest custom s (Sep 9, 2020)

052 stated above that Inline Tube had the best bushings. I went on thier site and can only find individual bushings for sale. is that the way they sell them or am I missing something. I have a 69 2dr sedan. I am hoping to tackle body mount bushing replacement this winter.


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## O52 (Jan 27, 2019)

I think I bought individually. Each model and Brand have different types of bushings and number of bushings. For example, Chevelle models don't have the same amount of bushings as BOP. 
If you want a stiff chassis go with the convertible set. Otherwise the coupe/sedan versions are fine. 
The factory service manual has a chart (Chassis Chapter) showing which bushings go where.


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