# Disc conversion opinions



## xconcepts (Jan 4, 2009)

Ok decided on disc conversion over power steering and exhaust. So I've seen the ones from right stuff but also saw these http://pages.ebay.com/motors/link/?nav=item.view&id=370944176653 or http://pages.ebay.com/motors/link/?nav=item.view&id=160730545012. Anyone have a recommendation on which one to get, they all seem the same to me. My wheels are 15".


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## Rukee (Feb 8, 2007)

Unless you're going to be racing the car I'd go with the first one.


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## xconcepts (Jan 4, 2009)

Just for my knowledge, why those over the right stuff kit or the other ebay kit?


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## Bensjammin66 (May 12, 2009)

I used a kit from summit that utilized 67-69 F body spindles, calipers, rotors, lines etc etc .. wasnt much, $450ish? Good performance and no issues with your 15" wheels. Parts store replacement stuff too which is nice. That first one you listed is a good deal id say. 

In my own persoanl experience great vacuum makes great brakes. If you run a choppy cam with low vac your gonna be a little disapointed.


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## Bensjammin66 (May 12, 2009)

xconcepts said:


> Just for my knowledge, why those over the right stuff kit or the other ebay kit?


IMO for the $60 extra get the slotted rotor kit, the second one. Especially if you have wheels to show them off. I cheaped and have smooth rotors and i regret it cause my wheels really display the brakes well.


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## geeteeohguy (Feb 2, 2008)

If I were converting an early A body to disc brakes, I'd do as I've done in the past: grab the spindles, rotors, calipers, prop. valve and master off of a boneyard '69-'72 A body and overhaul the calipers and master and run it. Last one I did cost a total of $90, though that was 'some time' ago. The factory stuff is made in USA, high quality, and fits like a glove. FAR better quality than the new stuff, in my experience.


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## Bensjammin66 (May 12, 2009)

geeteeohguy said:


> If I were converting an early A body to disc brakes, I'd do as I've done in the past: grab the spindles, rotors, calipers, prop. valve and master off of a boneyard '69-'72 A body and overhaul the calipers and master and run it. Last one I did cost a total of $90, though that was 'some time' ago. The factory stuff is made in USA, high quality, and fits like a glove. FAR better quality than the new stuff, in my experience.


NICE!! I gotta ask, where are you finding bone yard 69-72 A-bodies though? 
Mind you I am only 30 years old but ive never once seen a 69 chevy or b.o.p. in a bone yard.. Here in Ohio its all rotted ford rangers dodge neons and conversion vans.


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## xconcepts (Jan 4, 2009)

Bensjammin66 said:


> IMO for the $60 extra get the slotted rotor kit, the second one. Especially if you have wheels to show them off. I cheaped and have smooth rotors and i regret it cause my wheels really display the brakes well.


Running knock off rally II's, so not going to see them.


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## xconcepts (Jan 4, 2009)

geeteeohguy said:


> If I were converting an early A body to disc brakes, I'd do as I've done in the past: grab the spindles, rotors, calipers, prop. valve and master off of a boneyard '69-'72 A body and overhaul the calipers and master and run it. Last one I did cost a total of $90, though that was 'some time' ago. The factory stuff is made in USA, high quality, and fits like a glove. FAR better quality than the new stuff, in my experience.


Geeteeohguy - I've looked into trying to find a boneyard a body in tucson and the Phoenix area with no luck. The ones that do have them want 400+ for everything.

Edit, so just found a couple in AZ and outside. All wanted between 500-600 +shipping for used parts. Don't think it's worth it to go used.


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## mrvandermey (Jun 15, 2011)

I bought a parts car just to use the factory disc brakes (rotors, calipers, brake booster and master cylinder, and spindles), so there are some "boneyard bodies" out there.


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## xconcepts (Jan 4, 2009)

mrvandermey said:


> I bought a parts car just to use the factory disc brakes (rotors, calipers, brake booster and master cylinder, and spindles), so there are some "boneyard bodies" out there.


Yeah but I'm going to spend more on a parts car than just the brakes and I also have no way of getting a parts car to me even if I wanted too, which I don't, lol


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## mrvandermey (Jun 15, 2011)

xconcepts said:


> Yeah but I'm going to spend more on a parts car than just the brakes and I also have no way of getting a parts car to me even if I wanted too, which I don't, lol


I bought the parts car for $1,800, took off about $1,500 in parts, then sold the parts car for $2,000. So it worked out for me.


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## Bensjammin66 (May 12, 2009)

xconcepts said:


> Yeah but I'm going to spend more on a parts car than just the brakes and I also have no way of getting a parts car to me even if I wanted too, which I don't, lol


Get the second kit and be done. Nothing wrong with spending that kind of money for something as important as brakes, all brand new and nice. Its your hot rod its worth it.


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## geeteeohguy (Feb 2, 2008)

I keep forgetting I'm in California, and older cars are in junkyards in rust free (but usually smashed!) shape. Finding a 40 year old donor car in a junkyard in Ohio is probably not realistic.


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## xconcepts (Jan 4, 2009)

geeteeohguy said:


> I keep forgetting I'm in California, and older cars are in junkyards in rust free (but usually smashed!) shape. Finding a 40 year old donor car in a junkyard in Ohio is probably not realistic.


I'm not too much farther away in Arizona and have probably called two places in California and both want over 500 dollars not including shipping for a from kit from a 69 to 72


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## geeteeohguy (Feb 2, 2008)

PIRATES!!!! I HATE those guys. They probably paid $150 for the whole car. Last complete set up I got was, as I've said, $90. I think it could still be done at the local pick and pull in CA....saw a '70-'72 Skylark there a few months back. You just have to get dirty and pull all the stuff on site.


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## JVM225 (Jun 18, 2007)

The days of inexpensive junkyard parts are long gone around here.
Back in the early 70's when I first started roaming through them looking for whatever I needed to fix my car we were usually greeted by some greasy old guy chomping on a cigar that would look at whatever part we pulled off of a car and pick a number out of his head.
These days their inventories are computerized, you rarely get to roam through the cars to look for things, and they get their prices off of a computer screen. Those prices are usually just a little cheaper than the dealer or auto parts place.
It almost doesn't pay to roll the dice on a junkyard mechanical, electronic, or electrical part anymore.
I can't remember the last time I saw something older than about 20 years old in a junkyard either.
Scrap prices that sometimes get pretty high and limited space doesn't make it worth it for them to hold on to shells too long.


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## geeteeohguy (Feb 2, 2008)

For most of the country, I suspect this is the case. In CA and in the southwest, there are still a fair amount of yards just like you described as '70's style yards. Cars out here don't rust, so 40 year old cars are daily drivers and 45 year old and older cars are seen daily on the streets. Cars here get junked when they are wrecked, or just absolutely worn out mechanically. I heard from an east coast car guy once that all the good sheet metal, frames, and chassis parts came from the west coast, but the best engines and trannies came from the eastern side of the country. Probably true, IMO. On the east side, cars rust out long before the engine and the rest of the car gives out.


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## Instg8ter (Sep 28, 2010)

heres the slotted rotor kit for a little less, i got them for mine and am very happy zero rust scale on them even if i put it up wet and dont drive it for 2 weeks. They also threw in stainless line whip lines (80.00 value).
Chevy GM A or F Body Power High Performance Disc Brake Conversion Kit Slotted | eBay


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## jbrenner (Apr 15, 2013)

I just restored my '66 and went with the Right Stuff kit. Converted front and rear and all went pretty smoothly. No fitment issues to speak of. Car stops on a dime.


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## xconcepts (Jan 4, 2009)

Go So found a 70 A body brake kit with spindles, calipers, rotors all mounted together and master and booster for $350 plus shipping. I'd need lines. What do you all think?


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## xconcepts (Jan 4, 2009)

Anyone?


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## BearGFR (Aug 25, 2008)

Doesn't sound bad. I do agree that genuine GM, USA-made parts are far better. I went with a complete Wilwood kit on my 69, mostly because I also am using a Moser 9" rear from Spohn and those were the brakes that came with the axle. I thought it'd be better to get the matching front system. One advantage of the Wilwood kit is that they offer front caliper mounting brackets that will work with drum brake spindles, so you don't have to change spindles if you don't want to. (My car was a factory disc car so I already had disc spindles).

Point being: you've got lots of options so do what you're already doing -- research, talk to people, then make an informed decision based on your goals and budget.

Bear


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