# Brake bleeding question



## dastoria (Nov 24, 2007)

Good weather here in VA, so I couldn't resist getting something done on the car - 74 Ventura, GTO option, power brakes, disk/drum. I changed the master cylinder, bench bled it and installed it. I started to bleed the wheel cylinders - starting with the passenger rear. No problem. Then I tried the driver rear and I couldn't get any fluid coming out of the bleeder screw no matter what I tried. I am using a simple one man brake bleeding kit. The pedal is spongy, so it has air in the system - what am I doing wrong? :confused Thanks.


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## Rukee (Feb 8, 2007)

Even though you bench bled it, start bleeding at the master cyl. With the cap loose but not off loosen the lines and you should get fluid from both lines. if not then pump the pedal, I usually use my hand on the brake pedal and pump it, only pushing down about an inch. Once you get fluid at the master cyl lines then go to the right rear bleeder and open it. Do the same with the pedal, rapidly pumping it only about an inch until you get fluid coming out. Be sure to keep checking the master fluid level, don't want it to run out. After you get fluid with no air in it, go the the left rear and do the same, followed by the right front, then the left front. Once you get air free fluid coming out of all 4 corners you'll have a good pedal feel back. :cheers


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## geeteeohguy (Feb 2, 2008)

Be careful not to pump so fast that you aerate the brake fluid. (foam). What I do is this, when I'm alone: Open the bleeder, and then take a broomstick, curtain rod, etc. with soft ends (I used a hood-holder rod last month) and depress the pedal with the rod. Wedge the broomstick against the seat to hold the pedal down. Run back and close the bleeder. Repeat. You'll get fluid out. I've always bench bled master cylinders by using a hypo syringe to inject brake bluid thru the outlets back into the reservoir. You fill the master about half way, and slowly inject fluid into the outlet ports until the air bubbles goe away and you have a steady stream of brake fluid gushing upward. I've done this litereally a few hundred times over the past 25 years, and it always seems to work. I very rarely have to bleed it on the car afterwards.


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## dastoria (Nov 24, 2007)

Thanks Guys. If I get good weather, I'll give it a try this weekend. Thanks again for the advise.:cheers


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## Rukee (Feb 8, 2007)

geeteeohguy said:


> Be careful not to pump so fast that you aerate the brake fluid. (foam). What I do is this, when I'm alone: Open the bleeder, and then take a broomstick, curtain rod, etc. with soft ends (I used a hood-holder rod last month) and depress the pedal with the rod. Wedge the broomstick against the seat to hold the pedal down. Run back and close the bleeder. Repeat. You'll get fluid out. I've always bench bled master cylinders by using a hypo syringe to inject brake bluid thru the outlets back into the reservoir. You fill the master about half way, and slowly inject fluid into the outlet ports until the air bubbles goe away and you have a steady stream of brake fluid gushing upward. I've done this litereally a few hundred times over the past 25 years, and it always seems to work. I very rarely have to bleed it on the car afterwards.



I use to use that method too of a bar to hold the pedal down. Even though we have been hammered to not pump the pedal when bleeding, if you only do it an inch or less, it does work awesome. :cheers


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## geeteeohguy (Feb 2, 2008)

I agree. And I also have zero doubt you know how to fix these cars, Rukee!!! Everybody comes up with little tricks to do things when a helper isn't available.....my hood-prop-rod works great and doesn't hurt the seat! When I put new cylinders on my '65 last month or so, I had a leak at the LR cylinder inlet. Would not seal. Took it apart, and found that there was NO SEAT for the brake line to seat against. Man, was I upset! "Harbor Freight" parts, no doubt....


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## dastoria (Nov 24, 2007)

I plan to give it a try this weekend - if we don't get rain. I see some of you are in California, where you can pretty much count on a sunny day almost year round. I moved to VA from CA and while its a lot cheaper, I do miss that good weather!


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## Koppster (Jul 27, 2008)

No argument on bench bleeding the master cylinder, a must. I recently bought a new master cylinder from inline and it had the bench bleed kit and instructions with it, piece of cake.

As for bleeding the wheels, I bought a mity-vac kit ($50 max) about a year ago for my Harley and I tried it on the Goat when I replaced the mc. Worked like a champ and allowed me to bleed the system by myself. Nice tool to have around.

Rick


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## dastoria (Nov 24, 2007)

Rick,

I did a quick search and came up with "Mityvac 6820 Brake Bleeding Kit" on Amazon.com. for 30 dollars. It has a hand pump that attaches to a little jar and some lines that attach to the bleeder screw. Is this the one that you are reffering to? If so, I would probably order it. Thanks,

Dave


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## Koppster (Jul 27, 2008)

dastoria said:


> Rick,
> 
> I did a quick search and came up with "Mityvac 6820 Brake Bleeding Kit" on Amazon.com. for 30 dollars. It has a hand pump that attaches to a little jar and some lines that attach to the bleeder screw. Is this the one that you are reffering to? If so, I would probably order it. Thanks,
> 
> Dave


Similar, the one I have is Craftsman branded and the pump is metal, it is $59 at Sears: Craftsman Vacuum Pump/Brake Bleed Kit - 20930 at Sears.com

Sears also carries the one you are looking at for $34.99: Mity Vac Automotive Tune-up and Brake Bleeding Kit - 07000 at Sears.com

Both work great, the ONLY reason I got the $59 is for the metal handle...I'm thinking it will last longer.


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## dastoria (Nov 24, 2007)

I think you are right about the metal handle. Thanks.


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