# Ignition switch GTO -68



## GTO viking (Jul 13, 2011)

I Have a question about ignition switch on my GTO -68 , after this winter I have tried to start the car with no luck I first think that my coil has gone because I did not had any spark, I switch to a new and same problem still.
Im looked at wire diagram and one thing I dont understand is on my swich I have Ign 1, Ign2 , sol, Acc etc on the switch and I think its my keyswitch that is fault
when i put my key in i can turn it one "click" anti clockwise and in that possition I have 12 V only on ACC.
When i turn it one "click" clockwise I have 12V on ACC and Ign 1 and if I turn it more starter turn and 12V is on Sol but dissaper on Ign 1 
on Ign 2 I have constant 12 v ?
And if I check wiring diagram Ign 2 is going to a point with contant 12v from alterator and starter.


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## the65gto (Oct 9, 2008)

Ign #2 is for start only. Applies 12 volt to coil. Ign #1 is "RUN" position and runs 12V through a "resistance wire" to only apply 9.6 volts to the coil. The full 12V will burn the points quickly. This all assumes that you have a points type system?? Sounds like your switch is normal.


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## GTO viking (Jul 13, 2011)

Yes everything is stock 
when I use a digital meter on cable that goes to coil when attach its about 8-9 V loose arround 12V.
The problem is that voltage disapear when I turn to start so my 12 v on Ign 2 do not pass throu to the coil


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## the65gto (Oct 9, 2008)

OK...I am speaking from wiring on my 65, probably close. 12V is on Ign#2 when held in the start position only. It is "simple" wiring from the Ign#2 switch to the bulk head connector. On the other side of the bulk head connector, firewall side, is the resistance wire, mine measures 2.4 ohms and runs to a "coil splice" combining Ign#1 and Ign#2 signals to the + side of the coil. If I understand you correctly, when the switch is in the start position, your starter turns but you have no voltage at all on the + side of the coil?? If you have a wiring diagram, you should be able to trace this connection. Wiring diagrams are at the top of the forum here. Good Luck!!


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## lars (Sep 28, 2004)

Viking -
Here is how your system works:

In the IGN1 position, voltage is applied to the "+" side of the coil through a resistor wire, as stated above by the65gto. In the IGN2 position ("start position"), voltage from the switch is applied to the starter solenoid "S" terminal - not to the coil. When the solenoid slams in, direct battery voltage is routed to the solenoid "R" terminal, and there should be a wire going from "R" to the "+" side of the coil: There should be 2 wires on the coil "+" terminal. If the wire coming from the starter "R" terminal is not supplying 12 volts to the coil when the starter is cranking (assuming that the starter is cranking the engine over and the solenoid is kicking in), you have a starter solenoid problem - not a switch problem.

Is your starter turning over? If so, verify that you have 2 wires on your coil "+" and make sure the wire has not come loose on the solenoid "R" terminal. If there is no voltage on "R" during cranking, replace the solenoid.

Lars


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## the65gto (Oct 9, 2008)

:seeya: Not meaning to start an argument, but the wiring diagram does not support the "R" connection. I am using the 68 diagram at the top of this forum. I just received a new starter for my 65 from ames, 64-77 years of coverage and it only has two terminals on it. One for the big red wire and the other for "S", nothing there for "R". Photo attached.


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## GTO viking (Jul 13, 2011)

Cars is an GTO 1968
My starter turns and when I apply +12 v from battery throu a ballast restistor car is running.
on wire diagram it only show 1 cable to coil not 2 ( I ony have one ) so somewhare its must gain +12 v when keys in start possition.
on diagram it only show 2 connactions on starter one with bigBattery cable and one smaler attach at same point the smaler goes to a point there its connected to other cables and one of them goes to IGN 2.
other end ( Purple) goes to SOL on key swich.
I know many talk about resistance wire or Ballast resistor but non of it is on wiring diagram.

Sometime before they had a aftermarket keyswitch with only 3 connections , Battery, coil and solenoid. in this configration cars start and run.
it is that I tryning to fix to original keyswitch with original cables and connections


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## the65gto (Oct 9, 2008)

If I understand you correctly, you have a non factory ignition system with an external ballast resistor? I know that my factory wiring diagram does not identify the resistance wire, however a non factory diagram shows it as resistance wire (White-Orange_Purple)


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## GTO viking (Jul 13, 2011)

no every thing is factory.

Now im a bit confuced I was checking wiring diagram in my book ( Paul Z. Pontiac GTO 1964-1972 restoration guide) and then i compare it against that was on this side and 
Gr-rrr the are not showing same thing.
on that on this side its a connaction in bulkhead connector between Itn 1 and 2 but not in my book but colour match my book and not on this side.
In my book on page 170-171 it says Passanger compartment for 1968 GTO


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## lars (Sep 28, 2004)

the65gto said:


> :seeya: Not meaning to start an argument, but the wiring diagram does not support the "R" connection. I am using the 68 diagram at the top of this forum. I just received a new starter for my 65 from ames, 64-77 years of coverage and it only has two terminals on it. One for the big red wire and the other for "S", nothing there for "R". Photo attached.


That's interesting. I have 2 '68s, a '71, and a '74 Firebird, and they all have a starter like this (this starter just removed out of a '68):









Here is a shot of the solenoid, showing the "R" and "S" terminals:









Here is how my cars are wired. Notice the yellow wire from the "R" terminal to the "+" side of the coil, along with the black/pink resistor wire:









On the early cars, like your '65, the yellow wire came out of the starter switch (not from the "R" terminal) and ran in parallel to the resistor wire (black & pink with cloth wrapping) to the bulkhead connector. At the connector, the two were joined, and a single wire went to the coil. If there is a yellow wire coming out of the ignition switch (early style switch), verify that the yellow wire has 12 volts when the starter is cranking.

Viking:
If you do not have the starter "R" terminal with a yellow wire on it, you have to have a yellow wire coming from your ignition switch and running in parallel with the resistor wire (cloth wrapped and taped up in the wire bundle) to the fuseblock/bulkhead connector. Verify that you have a yellow wire in your ignition switch wire harness, and verify it's hooked up to the ignition switch. Verify that it gets 12 volts when the switch is turned to the "start" position.

Lars


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## the65gto (Oct 9, 2008)

My old (OEM) starter has the "R" term also. My guess is that starter was used in multiple vehicles.? Here is the 68 Diagram I was using before, no "R". Amazing on the differences.!

In a separate note, my 65 two wires do not join at the connector, as in a 68 diagram, but rather a "coil splice" midway between the BH connector and the coil.


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## GTO viking (Jul 13, 2011)

Thank you guys for helping me out , I have not had time to check this yet will do that in weekend and try to find the fault.


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## GTO viking (Jul 13, 2011)

I Have found was the problem was, it missing the second wire on the coil that was not show on wiring diagram so no it works.


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