# clutch linkage debacle



## extinctmake (Feb 8, 2011)

Okay, I installed my engine/transmission in my '65 GTO over the winter. I had problems with the clutch linkage I never recalled having when I put the car together nearly 15 years ago. Maybe I forgot how to assemble the clutch linkage.

My problem started with a rock hard clutch pedal. I had no lash in the pedal and the car shuttered because the clutch was hanging up.

Found that the release bearing had partially tilted on the fork. One of the ears on the fork was above where the bearing clips over the ears on the fork. It could have come undone while installing the gear box. It didn't go in very easily. 

So after not having any success adjusting the clutch, and discovering the release bearing was not on correctly, I took the transmission and bell housing back out. I replaced the bearing and got it put back together. The transmission even went in easier than the last time, so the release bearing remained properly on the fork during the gear box install.

Now while I attempted to install the clutch linkage the push rod does not want to fit between the countershaft and the dimple in the fork. I ran the screw all the way in the rod and it still won't fit. I disconnected the pedal rod from the top of the countershaft, but doing that just makes it to where I'm unable to put the clutch pedal rod back on the countershaft. It's as if the push rod is a hair too long. 

Is there a specific sequence to assemble the clutch linkage? I dread the prospect of pulling this all back apart. One other thought is to loosen the countershaft on the ball studs so it can be moved a little while putting the linkage together. 

I don't recall having this problem 15 years ago when I put it together the first time and I wouldn't think the push rod should have to be run in to it's shortest length to get it to fit between the countershaft and the fork.


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## RMTZ67 (Mar 12, 2011)

When I put mine back together recently it seemed like my adjustment rod was a hair to long also. ( If that's what you were referring too). I just sort of angled it from the side and forced it in there, then when I adjusted it seemed to end up where it was when I removed it. Then adjusted for slight pedal drop.


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## extinctmake (Feb 8, 2011)

Yeah it's a fraction of an inch from going into the hole on the countershaft. I hate to force something together. It went together tight when I installed it the first time. And I couldn't adjust the pedal drop. Had a rock hard pedal. 

I am baffled because it's not a complicated set up.

I'm going to try with the clutch push rod off the countershaft up top and see if I can re-attach it after getting the pushrod installed on the bottom.


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## PontiacJim (Dec 29, 2012)

extinctmake said:


> Okay, I installed my engine/transmission in my '65 GTO over the winter. I had problems with the clutch linkage I never recalled having when I put the car together nearly 15 years ago. Maybe I forgot how to assemble the clutch linkage.
> 
> My problem started with a rock hard clutch pedal. I had no lash in the pedal and the car shuttered because the clutch was hanging up.
> 
> ...


You might have the wrong throw-out bearing. They come in a couple lengths and have to be correct for the type of pressure plate used.

The wrong length will affect the angle of the clutch fork and thus the distance from the bellcrank hole for the adjustment rod to the clutch fork. Enclosed a diagram so you can see. In the incorrect position, this would be how your clutch fork will be positioned if the throw-out bearing is too short at the collar where your clutch fork rides. If it were too long, the fork would be way left and almost up against the bell housing opening where the fork comes through and you would not have enough free-play between the throw-out bearing and the pressure plate diaphragm fingers.

Enclosed a photo to demonstrate, long vs short.

Could be something else.


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## extinctmake (Feb 8, 2011)

Well I got to the bottom of my clutch linkage problem.

The pushrod I was using is the heavy duty replacement version. It is longer than the stock pushrod that uses a swivel. I found my original swivel type pushrod and it all went together without any issues. And according to the shop manual, the heavy duty version is the one used for Tempest/Lemans models with six cylinder engines. Seems odd. 

I adjusted my clutch and I have the pedal lash I needed. 

I still don't know why this issue cropped up. Everything I put back in is identical to what I had before. I am using the shorter throw out bearing PontiacJim illustrates. I was using the same length bearing before. Maybe a slight amount of clearance is all it takes to cause this problem.


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