# "Poor Man's" Ram Air Mod.....



## ramairthree (Feb 28, 2009)

First, I apologize to the numbers matching and original parts only collectors. I am more of a "get what I wanted when I was younger" type, and like drivers that function good and have a few personal touches for appearance. 

Some of you know what I mean, and add stuff like bigger rear tires, jack up the rear end, put in bigger engines, etc. 

My 69 was originally a YS 350HP block. It is orginal color paint and interior, but no longer has the black vinyl top. The engine received a RAIII cam, header type exhaust manifolds, and heads from the previous owner.

I wanted functional Ram Air, but did not want to cut up the under hood frame, or buy and install all the 69 type parts, even though the cable would have been cool. My goal was functional ram air. I started with the stock dual snorkel air cleaner.










I kept the in the lower carb pan assembly so save a couple of hundred bucks on getting a 68 carb pan. I used a KN type 3inch x 14inch air filter just like the original size, and topped it with a breathing air cleaner lid of the same type. I had to change to stud to one about 1/2 inch longer. I did not foam seal off the lower carb pan.












I got a reproduction fiberglass 1968 ram air hood pan. I suggest spending the extra 150$ or so and getting the steel one. All the holes will be already in it, it will be stronger, and the tabs will make it easier to install. Aside from drilling five small holes in the underhood frame for the machine screws, you do not have to cut or mod your hood like for the 69 parts.










I added a repro air cleaner 400 4bl Ram Air decal to the hood pan, just because I felt like putting something on it. 

With all the ram air parts, and opened hood scoops, I felt no quilt adding the ram air decals. I can't tell you how many lemans or gtos I have seen with ram air or judge decals but none of the performance that goes with it. I am cool with "cloning" a better model, like putting a 454 in a Chevelle and then badging it a SS454 and putting on the cowl hood and rally stripes. We can't all fill our garages with factory original LS6 Chevelles or RAIV Judges, but we can rescue a rough Chevelle or take a GTO and build our own Judge or SS454 for fun and our own personal happiness.










Some of you probably picked up on the opened hood scoops that have been painted flat black instead of body color. Just a little touch I prefer even though not factory correct. I also painted the spoiler flat black for the same reason. Note the subtle other mod with the 70s front quarter gloss black decal on the flat black spoiler.










I also plan on larger rear tires (it has 22570r14s on 14x6 rally IIs all the way around now). I was thinking of more like 25560 or 25570r15s on 15x7 rally IIs.
I am also thinking of either coil lift blocks or air shocks for another inch or two rake to the rear end. Finishing touches will be Firebird type downturned dual exhaust chrome splitter tips. Judge stripes are already on, and I may even add the spoiler and front quarter Judge decals. 

Purists please wait until I paste photos of all mods before flaming, it will be more efficient to get me for everything all at once.

Once I have finished the "fun" mods, I will need to roll the sleeves up, and get in a new heater core, decide if I want to get the factory AC working, get my interior lighting working right, get my passenger door opening from the outside, adjust the driver's side window, settle for the non working AM original radio- but get an underdash 8 track in there and working, etc.

By the time all that is done, it will probably be in need of restoration again.

If anyone has a good combo of rear tires and lift/rake for 15x7s on the back of a 69, please let me know. I think a good pair of air shocks will get me two inches, plus another inch or so for larger tires. If anyone has good luck with just the lift blocks, I would like to hear what you did. We all did it in high school, but I it did not help the ride/handling any if I remember right.

Also, if anyone has any pics, instructions, or tips for the placement of the foam hood seal, please let me know. I think I need a little better adjustment, placement, or fit up front near the scoop inlets.


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## Jim (Oct 30, 2008)

*Original or Not*

Ram Air Three,

I am like you and think you need to do what you want with your car. As long as we are all out there enjoying the sport is what is important. I spoke to guys that talked about how stupid it was to not have all original cars with correct this and correct that. The interesting part is when I asked them what they had, they didn't have anything.

Keep em rolling brother !!!!!!

Jim :cheers


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## Rukee (Feb 8, 2007)

I'd say it turned out great!! :cheers


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## raspantienator (Nov 20, 2007)

Its functional. I did the same to my 74 TA which has the shaker sealed. I opened up and put one of those exact filters on. worked fine.


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## auburnconsulting (Nov 3, 2008)

yeah i have talked to a bunch of guys in conversation that say must have correct and numbers matching to be a true muscle car. but open their garage and nothing there. make your car yours. way to go man


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## Rukee (Feb 8, 2007)

auburnconsulting said:


> yeah i have talked to a bunch of guys in conversation that say must have correct and numbers matching to be a true muscle car. but open their garage and nothing there. make your car yours. way to go man


When ever someone points out something that may not be correct on mine, I always ask them "Where's your `65 GTO?"

Only one guy has said his was over there, but it wasn't as nice as mine, IMO anyway.


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## ramairthree (Feb 28, 2009)

Hey, glad so many understand. Thanks for the responses.

Don't get me wrong, I am not busting on guys that restore and maintain factory correct and numbers matching show and museum pieces. Those cars are awesome. I understand why some would pay and own a show quality matching RAIV convertible Judge, etc. 

But I also get a lot of guys can afford to make one out of a Lemans, or decide to put more engine in their GTO, etc. 

I was just making it clear I am not one of those guys, and doing what I want with my ride, fully knowing what is not correct, etc.

Now, there are some mods I think are bufugly, that guys love and are happy with. And some probably cringe at what I like. But we are all keeping vintage cars on the road and like what we have. Its all good.


Yeah, they may be a lot more SS, Judges, Hemis, GSXs, etc. than ever really left the factory, but if its on the road in spirit, it beats the heck out of never seeing one.


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## Jstreet (Mar 9, 2009)

I was actually expecting to see some sort of smog pump hooked up to the carb as a joke. Not too shabby. I guess you don't drive in the rain? Thought about plugs for the scoops in just in case?


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## Jstreet (Mar 9, 2009)

Care to commenton the cost of yours versus installing the real deal? I may go for it until I could muster up the funds. I like the functionality aspect.


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## ramairthree (Feb 28, 2009)

I have a pair of closed scoops I can swap in, but also plan to make a piece I can stick in from the out side to close them off.

Real RA parts are a fortune.

1968 (RAII) style steel reproduction kits with hood pan, upper and lower foam seals, and carb pan, and new air filter of right size are about 500$.

1969 RA III and IV style kits, also reprodction steel, are about 1000$. Add in a few hundred when all is said and done depending on the kit for either scoops or a few sundry parts not with the kit. But, this is the real 69 style with Ram Air bracket and cable, to open and close at will. If you are totally cool, you will get the 1970 Humber VOE mufflers and add that cable to the bracket. (well, it does sound cool)

I spent about 85$ on the fiberglass hood pan, 40$ on the foam seal (I would skip it in retrospect and just rig my own out of some other foam, and apply that saving towards going with a steel repro pan), and about 50$ for the air filter and lid. Shipping was over 35$ just for the large size of the box I guess. All together, not cheap, but I am cool with the 68 hood parts because you dont have to cut pieces off. The lower half looks funn using the stock carb pan, but I really do think it breaths better than the II, III, or IV full RA set ups. When all is said and done, these hood scoops are not high enough off the hood to be above the smooth air flow. There cannot be a significant ram effect compared like higher scoops can snag. But this set up does give you a lot of cool air flowing and directed right at a very unrestricted path to the carb.


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## GTO JUDGE (May 14, 2005)

I like the set up. Ingenious. 

I have seen the RA 3 set up on ebay for 850.00. Includes all except the preheater and manifold that I can see.


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## ramairthree (Feb 28, 2009)

GTO JUDGE said:


> I like the set up. Ingenious.
> 
> I have seen the RA 3 set up on ebay for 850.00. Includes all except the preheater and manifold that I can see.


I mainly see two different places for the 69 kits. Similar costs, but one without scoops has most of the other little pieces, and the scoops are over 150$ before paint, and do not tend to hold up if acutally used much (where they are bolted to the assembly). The other kit has scoops but missing sundry little items. Then add shipping, etc. You are looking at 1000$ either set for complete parts. 

And you also have to do some removal of your hood frame, etc.
The real 69 set up is the way to go for the coolest, best set up if you ask me.

My way is the way to go for least expenditure to get a similar or better effect. You do have to open up a set of stock scoops. (which you can get for 20 to 30$)

I would rather have a real 69 set up to be honest. The cable and bracket would be really cool. But this is a comparatively quick and inexpensive option leaving some bucks to got towards other stuff for the car or even towards another car. Plus, if I had the factory correct set up, I would just go overboard and ruin it but putting the humbler cable knob on it to for a pair of VOE mufflers that really belong on a 70.


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## Jstreet (Mar 9, 2009)

How much space do you have between the lip of the air cleaner and the fiberglass housing? Maybe a carb spacer could take up some of the gap and you could use some rubber moulding to seal it off. Just a thought. If you don't know, use some modeling clay and place it around the air cleaner. Close the hood and see what kind of compression you get. Measure the clay. that would be a good starting point.


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## GTO JUDGE (May 14, 2005)

ramairthree said:


> I mainly see two different places for the 69 kits. Similar costs, but one without scoops has most of the other little pieces, and the scoops are over 150$ before paint, and do not tend to hold up if acutally used much (where they are bolted to the assembly). The other kit has scoops but missing sundry little items. Then add shipping, etc. You are looking at 1000$ either set for complete parts.
> 
> And you also have to do some removal of your hood frame, etc.
> The real 69 set up is the way to go for the coolest, best set up if you ask me.
> ...


The set up I see advertised includes whats stated below. Here is some of what the add states, the price for the 1970 is 900.00. I am not advocating this item, if one wants to view it it can be found on Ebays All of Ebay motors section. 

"What we have here is a complete 1970 GTO /Judge Ram Air kit. This kit includes the factory steel upper Ram Air pan with OEM actuator with white vacuum hose, lower steel Ram Air pan for Ram Air III, upper and lower foam seals, flapper assembly, OEM factory scoops, interior pull cable kit with correct chrome knob and mounting kit for cables, & metal lid (AC Delco air filter pictured is not included). No one has a better kit than this! We have the best out there. This kit retails for $1,200.00, but we are offering this on Ebay with no reserve to get the word out on these for a low, low opening bid of $900! Bid to win! Our competition does not offer a kit that is this complete."


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## busaben (Oct 30, 2008)

is there a way to make a ram air kit for the 67 gto's? i like the scoop, i just would like to make it functional


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