# Need help with horn



## Doritoboy100 (Sep 17, 2020)

Hello everyone, I'm back again on the same issue I had before.
I bought the car and it had no horn, I diagnosed everything I knew at the time, replaced fuse, tested horns (they work with alarm system but not with horn button), replaced clock spring (steering wheel controls were finicky so I thought it could have been this), finally someone asked if I tested the relay and my stupid self forgot there was a relay so I checked that. There wasn't a relay. Weird, so I replaced it and bam right away the horn worked. Next day the sun came out and the horn started blaring non stop. I pulled the relay and said "ah, that's why it was missing." So last night I replaced the entire steering wheel with an NRG hub and wheel (I have an aftermarket radio with voice controls so I don't need wheel controls anyways) and thought maybe the connection inside the wheel was touching when it heated up and expanded. This morning the sun came out and it did it again. So I'm guessing it's either wiring in the dash or maybe the relay box has some issue and is causing it to trip on.
I'd just like to know if anyone has experienced this this and had a solution, or if someone may know what it could be and can push me in the right area. I am not an electrician, even though I've been through maybe 7 different fundamental electrical courses, I am basically retarded when it comes to working on electrical systems. 
Thanks in advance.


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## Jetzster (Jan 18, 2020)

The SunGods are after you,lol
For electronics , to troubleshoot
Always remember, ‘divide and conquer!’

Unhook the ckt between steering wheel and relay
And see if if stops going off, then you’ll know for sure where to go next, if it’s heat related or not


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## Doritoboy100 (Sep 17, 2020)

Jetzster said:


> The SunGods are after you,lol
> For electronics , to troubleshoot
> Always remember, ‘divide and conquer!’
> 
> ...


So just unhook the wiring to the horn button?


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## Jetzster (Jan 18, 2020)

That would be a place to start, actually the best place would be if you knew which wire was coming from horn button at the relays terminals itself , and unhook it at that spot, it’s more in the middle of the ckt, eliminating the path thru the front dash better,
(One wire should go to horn from the relay , one wire coming from battery to the relay , one wire goes to horn button from relay )


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## Doritoboy100 (Sep 17, 2020)

Jetzster said:


> That would be a place to start, actually the best place would be if you knew which wire was coming from horn button at the relays terminals itself , and unhook it at that spot, it’s more in the middle of the ckt, eliminating the path thru the front dash better,
> (One wire should go to horn from the relay , one wire coming from battery to the relay , one wire goes to horn button from relay )


Okay, that's a great explanation. I'm going to get on shopkey tonight at school and pull the wiring diagram and see if I can trace those wires and find some issue with it. My instructor will be there to help so hopefully we can figure it out lol


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## Jetzster (Jan 18, 2020)

Sounds so far like an intermittent ground is activating the relay,
if it stopped with the relay out, something is
Turning on the relay, what it has to do with heat
Of the sun or air is interesting ,
sounds maybe Like a wire sheath or connector is expanding somehow and is likely tight going around a corner ,shorting to ground,
Activating the horn relay, as u know, normally just your horn button sends the ground to it when pushed


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## Doritoboy100 (Sep 17, 2020)

Jetzster said:


> Sounds so far like an intermittent ground is activating the relay,
> if it stopped with the relay out, something is
> Turning on the relay, what it has to do with heat
> Of the sun or air is interesting ,
> ...


Here's the wiring diagram. It looks like there's a ground in the passenger wheel well, I didn't have time to actually investigate tonight, I had to do my alignment instead and man my car is jacked up lol. Every single measurement was off. I did the toe on the front, but I didn't feel like taking the wheels off to do camber, and I tried doing the rear but those haven't been touched since 2004 and are on there tight lol


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## Jetzster (Jan 18, 2020)

Looks like a lot going on
I’d disconnect the BCM first from the horn ckt and see if it stops
Not sure what its doing in the middle of things
Unless it’s part of an alarm , which would need access to a horn
Hope the alignment goes well as well


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## Doritoboy100 (Sep 17, 2020)

Jetzster said:


> Looks like a lot going on
> I’d disconnect the BCM first from the horn ckt and see if it stops
> Not sure what its doing in the middle of things
> Unless it’s part of an alarm , which would need access to a horn
> Hope the alignment goes well as well


Yea seems like 3 or 4 wires total, my instructor is just going to have to take a look at it with me Monday. As for the alignment its still jacked up. I put GM 10" wide on it and put 1.5" spacers all around because the wheels didn't clear up front, so its got a lot of vibration around 49-62ish, but before/after its smooth as can be. So I'm sure it's just because of the spacers, because it didn't have any vibration at all on factory rims. I want to do a decent looking fender flare to match the wheels sticking out of the fender lol.
So the horn and the vibration are my main problems with it now, and I still need to replace the front suspension, but nobody has pedders springs for the front in stock... I also plan on doing rear end 3.70 swap and full service and one piece drive shaft swap, and then I want to do pistons and cam and turbo it!


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