# 67 GTO gas tank sending unit



## pjw1967 (Mar 10, 2014)

Spent the day replacing the gas tank. Should have been an easy job, but....I'll explain later. Tank is in and gassed up 1/3. But new sending unit not working. Dash gauge shows tank is completely full. Wire to old sending unit was threaded and screwed onto the sending unit bolt. New sending unit has a push/snap on type bolt. I pushed the old wire onto it and it's not very tight. So the questions are a) if the sending unit is not getting electricity, does it "fail" in the full position and if so b) does anyone have an idea on how to adapt the screw type wire to the push on bolt. BTW the sending unit ground strap is in place. Thanks for looking.


----------



## xconcepts (Jan 4, 2009)

Is the sending unit the correct ohm? I had the incorrect one when I replaced it and showed full when it wasn't 

Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App


----------



## nineteen 65 (Jul 8, 2013)

I agree with xconcepts. My 65 has a 90 OHM sending unit, not sure if 67 is the same. If all else is working in your circuit, connections etc. then it has to be the sender. To my knowledge unfortunately the only way to check is to remove the sender and check with a meter.


----------



## jmt455 (Mar 26, 2012)

Fairly common problem...

This thread has helped a few folks: http://www.gtoforum.com/f50/fuel-gauge-issues-38937/


----------



## pjw1967 (Mar 10, 2014)

jmt455, thank you for the link. Now I have some trouble-shooting possibilities before I go all Ninja on the vendor. Will update once I attack the problem.


----------



## pjw1967 (Mar 10, 2014)

Gauge is working now. Went back under and scraped off the area around the ground strap to ensure a good metal/metal contact. Turned key on...nothing. Still buried F. Removed wire from sending unit. Used a lighted circuit tester. Alligator clip to sending unit post, probe to gauge wire. Light lit up, and gauge moved a little, but more past FULL (to the right). Crap. But never give up. Put a screw up into the sending unit wire and used a test wire with alligator clips on each end. Bingo! Gauge started moving to the left and settled about half full. Rear of car was on ramps so fuel was forward in the tank. OK, now how to make a good connection. Any of you in the marine biz will understand jury rig. Got a wire splice connector (yellow). Stuck a hole punch in each end to widen it. Remember, all I have at the sending unit is a push on bolt. Had to cut the plastic off of the connector so it was just covering the internal metal. Cut the head off the screw and screwed in into one end of the connector. Back under car. Screwed the connector into the sending unit wire till it was tight. Pushed the other end onto the sending unit bolt till it clicked. Turned on the key. Bingo again! Gauge started moving to the left and settled about half full. Got some of the that colored sealing tape used on hoses etc and carefully wrapped it around the end of the sending unit wire at the tank. Started the car, off the ramps, into the garage and gauge went to 1/3 full which is about what was in it. Not out of the woods yet. Need to do a better job connecting the sending unit wire. Any ideas? Thanks to all for your advice.


----------



## the65gto (Oct 9, 2008)

Great descriptive write up on your trouble shooting process. Picture is great also. I am thinking that I might remove the sender and take it away from the tank and see if you can solder a wire on it. You could use a small vice grip on the stud next to the yellow insulator to keep it as cool as possible during the soldering. (Use an iron, not a torch) Once the wire is soldered good, cover it with shrink tubing etc and then you have multiple choices on how to connect this to your factory wire. ??


----------

