# 04 GTO stock 17in wheels



## GNASTY GOAT (Apr 28, 2013)

Whats the widest tires you can run on the stock 17 inch wheels on the front and not rub on the struts and on the rear and not rub?


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## svede1212 (Nov 1, 2005)

They're 8" wide so 245-255 in the rear and the same in the front. Once you start going wider the sides balloon out affecting the contact patch. People have jammed 275s in the back on the stock wheels as well as jacked it up but it is in no way the right way to do it. You also need to cut or roll the fender lips. In the front your wheel camber has a lot to do with it. To go wider you would need to decrease negative camber and that affects your cornering a lot (as well as tire wear on both). If you want to go wider the only right way to do it is widen the wheels. I had my rear stock 17s widened to 9" to mount 275-285s


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## Steamwalker (Mar 9, 2012)

Some people rub with 245s on stock 17s. I'd personally run no more than that. With a different offset or spacers, sure.


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## svede1212 (Nov 1, 2005)

I'm sure you're talking about in the fronts. If it rubs with 245s more than likely the strut tower bushings are collapsed and/or the negative camber is too high.


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## pocketmaster (Feb 26, 2010)

svede1212 said:


> I'm sure you're talking about in the fronts. If it rubs with 245s more than likely the strut tower bushings are collapsed and/or the negative camber is too high.


I have a question with the rear camber.....Why is it when you replace the shot stock springs with upgraded springs (20mm drop) does it correct the camber problem?? It would seem that getting an upgraded lowering spring would cause the negative camber to still be occuring.....do you understand what I am asking??


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## svede1212 (Nov 1, 2005)

It does. At the same time I did that I replaced both my inner and outer control arm bushings though. The stock ones "sag" the control arms and exacerbated camber issues. With the stiffer springs which help prevent camber increases on bumps and launch as well as with the bushings my camber specs are well within spec and I get no uneven tire wear.


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## pocketmaster (Feb 26, 2010)

svede1212 said:


> It does. At the same time I did that I replaced both my inner and outer control arm bushings though. The stock ones "sag" the control arms and exacerbated camber issues. With the stiffer springs which help prevent camber increases on bumps and launch as well as with the bushings my camber specs are well within spec and I get no uneven tire wear.


You wouldn't happen to have a diagram of where these bushings are located?? Or possibly where all of the bushings are located that should be replaced after 100k miles??


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## Steamwalker (Mar 9, 2012)

pocketmaster said:


> You wouldn't happen to have a diagram of where these bushings are located?? Or possibly where all of the bushings are located that should be replaced after 100k miles??












From: https://www.wretched.co/tech-talk-main/tech-talk-gto


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## svede1212 (Nov 1, 2005)

I made a simple tool out of hardware store parts to extract them along with a propane torch. At the time is was purported to take "special tools" to remove them and considered not a DIY project. The first one was figuring out the method. The rest came out quickly. Install is very easy.


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## pocketmaster (Feb 26, 2010)

svede1212 said:


> I made a simple tool out of hardware store parts to extract them along with a propane torch. At the time is was purported to take "special tools" to remove them and considered not a DIY project. The first one was figuring out the method. The rest came out quickly. Install is very easy.


Are you refering to removal of the control arm bushings?? If so i believe I have seen the "tool" youre refering to. Drill out some of the excess rubber to relieve stress and torch the lips off. I assume you completely remove the control arm to make revoval of the bushings easier ??


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## svede1212 (Nov 1, 2005)

Ya, I just pulled it down a little and did it in place. Back in the day Pedders was saying they were the only one with a tool to do it. I made up my tool and found the torch softened up the goo that kind of glues it in to make removal much easier. I cut the lip off first. I cleaned up the void with sandpaper on a drill and repainted to prevent future rust before reassembly.


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## pocketmaster (Feb 26, 2010)

svede1212 said:


> Ya, I just pulled it down a little and did it in place. Back in the day Pedders was saying they were the only one with a tool to do it. I made up my tool and found the torch softened up the goo that kind of glues it in to make removal much easier. I cut the lip off first. I cleaned up the void with sandpaper on a drill and repainted to prevent future rust before reassembly.


Awesome....I'm tackling this project as soon as I get my bushings in. Changing springs (stock to Lovell), shocks and figured I might as well do the bushings too since I will be in the position to do it. I'm hoping I will be able to tell a difference in the ride.


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