# I think I found My correct engine



## teamwoody72 (May 23, 2008)

Ok Guys

I believe I found 2 of the correct engines for my car but want to make sure before I purchase. One motor I found has a build date of L146 which I believe is Nov 14 1966. The other is L226 which I believe is Nov 22 1966.. According to my PHS Documentation the INVOICE date for my car is 12/01/1966. Is this invoice date the same as the build date...
As usual any helpmis greatly appreciated..
Mike


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## teamwoody72 (May 23, 2008)

I forgot to add my vin tag says 11e


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## 05GTO (Oct 6, 2004)

Mike,

The november 22, 66 would be a good match for your build date which I believe was the 5th week of November. Keep in mind the engine block may also have the engine unit number stamped under the letter code. This unit number is listed on your PHS billing history. There were some changes made in mid year of 67 to the coding of engines and I don't remember if the unit numbers were used all year or just the first part of 67.Check your billing history for the engine unit number.


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## teamwoody72 (May 23, 2008)

My PHS docs do show a engine unit number of 012059. Is this number specifically for my car or is it for any motor from this buld date..

Thanks


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## geeteeohguy (Feb 2, 2008)

It would be the engine # your car came with. I think that is the one thing you can't get around: actual engine number. You can get the right block, cast on the right date, etc. But, if you have the protectoplate or the phs, it can be verified as non original. Keep in mind, when these cars were built, they were expected to be junked in 7 or 8 years. Nobody thought that over 40 years later, folks like us would be chasing down manifolds and brackets with the right numbers on them!!!!


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## Too Many Projects (Nov 15, 2008)

geeteeohguy said:


> It would be the engine # your car came with. I think that is the one thing you can't get around: actual engine number. You can get the right block, cast on the right date, etc. But, if you have the protectoplate or the phs, it can be verified as non original. Keep in mind, when these cars were built, they were expected to be junked in 7 or 8 years. Nobody thought that over 40 years later, folks like us would be chasing down manifolds and brackets with the right numbers on them!!!!


and isn't that the silliest dang truth.......:willy::rofl:
November 22nd, 1966 was on a Tuesday in the fourth week of November. Your car was invoiced and the trim/VIN tags punched the 5th week. That's 6-10 days separating them and is about as close a match as you could hope to stumble into. The COPO Chevy guys would be tripping each other to get a block to match that close to resurrect a "numbers matching" car............

Buy It !!!!!!!!!!


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## teamwoody72 (May 23, 2008)

what should i expect to pay for it keeping in mind it will have to be broken down and gone through..


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## Too Many Projects (Nov 15, 2008)

teamwoody72 said:


> what should i expect to pay for it keeping in mind it will have to be broken down and gone through..


On that, I really don't have a clue, but the LAST thing you want is to let the seller know it's to match your car.........then the price usually goes up.  I haven't checked on availability of rebuildable 389's, but I would think less than 1k for a core short block.


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## geeteeohguy (Feb 2, 2008)

For the '67, it's a 400 incher.....if you can get a rebuildable core for under 1500.oo, jump on it!


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## Too Many Projects (Nov 15, 2008)

geeteeohguy said:


> For the '67, it's a 400 incher.....if you can get a rebuildable core for under 1500.oo, jump on it!


.......







I get soooo confused by all these engine sizes...........:willy:


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## wytnyt (May 17, 2008)

05GTO said:


> There were some changes made in mid year of 67 to the coding of engines .


what changes was made
?


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## 05GTO (Oct 6, 2004)

My last rebuild was around $4,200 plus the cost or your core will have your cost around $5,000+/-. Then factor the cost to remove and replace the engines which may be several hundred bucks. 

After investing that much money into your car you still can't call it numbers matching. If I were inspecting your GTO to purchase the first number I would check would be the engine unit number. 

One advantage is not many people have knowledge that in 67 Pontiac documented the GTO engine number on the billing history. I believe this was the only year that a number other than the car's VIN was stamped onto the 400 block.

If you currently have a 69 or newer block as I have it is obvious when looking at the water pump the car does not have the correct dated engine. I could see some value in having a 67 engine with the correct letter code on the front of the block as well as 670 heads. But only one person in 1,000 would look for these codes.


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## 05GTO (Oct 6, 2004)

wytnyt said:


> what changes was made
> ?


There was a partial casting number used on the distributor pad and the date codes used J for September for the early 67 production. The full casting number was moved behind the #8 cylinder and the car's vin number was added to the block in late 67 next to the timing chain cover,


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## teamwoody72 (May 23, 2008)

I believe I will be able to get the shortblock for $800. I think the block alone is worth more than that...I think if for some reason I ever HAD to sell the car having a DATE CORRECT motor cant hurt. Do you guys think its worth the investment...


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## geeteeohguy (Feb 2, 2008)

I think it's a sound deal if the block is not damaged. They won't get any more common, and they won't be getting cheaper as the years roll by....


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## Rukee (Feb 8, 2007)

:agree


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## Too Many Projects (Nov 15, 2008)

teamwoody72 said:


> I believe I will be able to get the shortblock for $800. I think the block alone is worth more than that...I think if for some reason I ever HAD to sell the car having a DATE CORRECT motor cant hurt. Do you guys think its worth the investment...


Very reasonable price IF the block is a good core that hasn't already been bored more than .030 oversize. See if the seller will guarantee it to be good and then have it cleaned and checked for cracks immediately. The lifter bosses tend to crack if it has been run hard. Wouldn't hurt to have the crank miched at the same time so you know if that is reusable. Once you are assured it is good, get a couple cans of aerosol White LITHIUM grease and thoroughly coat it to prevent rust, bag it and put it away until you are ready to use it.
May the Force be with you.


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## geeteeohguy (Feb 2, 2008)

Roger on the LITHIUM grease....I "preserved" a 428 block years ago with just plain 30 wt. and now, years later, the block is pretty much junk due to rust. Live and learn, hopefully!!


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