# My Trunk & Rear Deck Depress Me



## Koppster (Jul 27, 2008)

Okay guys, go easy on the novice. 

I even had a professional inspect the car and he didn't see this either. 

It was/is there in plain sight, all you have to do is lay down in the trunk and look up at the rear window deck. 

I'm sad. 

Lay it on me...what's the prognosis.


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## geeteeohguy (Feb 2, 2008)

It's in much better shape than most. You could mask off everything and sandblast the area and reprime/repaint. Messy job. I think it it were mine, and I didn't want to disassemble the whole interior, etc I'd do the following: Wire wheel the major rust I could get to, and then brush on a rust converter. After the converter does its thing, I'd paint over it. I've used the converter, it chemically neutralizes the rust, and it works very well. As stated, bad as it looks, it is much better than most I've seen, and it appears structurally sound. I would treat it and not worry about it. You have to remember, these cars were designed to last 7 to 10 years originally, not 45 years plus!! They all leaked water at the back window over time, and they all rusted to some degree. The total, show car route would be sand blasting, wome metal work, and refinishing. I don't see a big problem here. Cheer up!!!


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## crustysack (Oct 5, 2008)

I agree - scale off what you can and buy a quart of POR-15 that stuff turns rust into solid steel, well almost


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## Too Many Projects (Nov 15, 2008)

Don't lay in your trunk...........

Eastwood has a rust converter in an aerosol can. Spray the bejeepers out of it and move on. When it starts to bubble under the paint on the outside, then you get to have the fun of dealing with it. Hopefully it was treated properly under the paint and you won't have any issues.:cheers


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## Koppster (Jul 27, 2008)

Thanks guys...I'll get in there and start cleaning and primering what I can get to.

I think I'm going to put "frame-off" on my list of things to do sometime in the next 3 years.

Ka-ching! 

It's worth it, nothing like running through the gears in a Goat!


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## Rukee (Feb 8, 2007)

Mine was worse. I replaced that panel between the rear window and the trunk lid. When I removed the old one, I ground out at least a gallon of bonda and everything thing from crumpled up newspaper to pieces of wire mess.


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## Koppster (Jul 27, 2008)

Okay...I've been out drooling over the Eastwood products

I'm assuming I need to:

1. Spray the areas with Rust Convertor

2. After the convertor does it's work, spray with Rust Encapsolator

Very, very interesting products....what is the Rust Convertor Parts A & B all about?

Thanks,
Rick


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## Too Many Projects (Nov 15, 2008)

I've got them both in liquid form and I thought the converter was part A and the encapsulator was B ?
For that area, the aerosol would be less messy than a brush and more likely to get in the cracks.


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## Koppster (Jul 27, 2008)

Mitch,

Sounds almost like an epoxy type thing, if I'm reading right they want you to mix Part A & B:

We had our chemists formulate a more effective rust converter. This new formulation consists of Rust Converter Part A and Converter Wetting Agent Part B. The combined components more effectively wet, penetrate and react with the steel and rust while minimizing air bubbles. Surfaces can be coated by brushing, dipping or spraying. It adheres to bare or rusty steel, and can be topcoated with most coatings. In fact we recommend top coating with Eastwood Rust Encapsulator for even greater durability. Includes 1 quart of Rust Converter Wetting Agent, pt. B. Requires use with 12256ZP Rust Converter Pt. A.

Eastwood Co. - Eastwood's Rust Converter Part B qt

Out of my league for what I'm doing but interesting.

Rick


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## Too Many Projects (Nov 15, 2008)

Yup, something new they came up with. Sounds messy and you'd need a sprayer too. I think the first choice will be fine under there, I hope so, cause that's what I need to do under mine also....:cheers


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