# Pads for race track 05 GTO



## kiwinz8 (Sep 29, 2008)

Gid 'ah Everyone,

I'm a new user.
I race at autobahncountryclub.net in my 2004 GTO, after I went off the back straight at around 115MPH with no brakes, I did a brake upgrade to 2005 brakes all round, Rotors, Calipers, Spindles and stock pads.
After the first lap I had brake fad, after 3-4 sessions my pads were gone.

What brake pads are best for racing my GTO?
I don't mind changes them before each race day.

Cheers,

Bryce.
Yes I'm a Kiwi living in Naperville.


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## Rukee (Feb 8, 2007)

Welcome to the forums.
Check this thread, one of our members has done alot of the homework for you. 
http://www.gtoforum.com/f39/brake-upgrade-review-18036/


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## kiwinz8 (Sep 29, 2008)

Yes I'd already read this and many others on the forum and internet, I can't find none with a good result.
The one you mentioned had same problem with Hawks as the OEM brakes and is going to try EBC Red and is going to try and remove the fog lamps, but it doesn't say it worked.
Cheers, Bryce.


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## 05GTO (Oct 6, 2004)

Bryce,

Go with EBC yellowstuff and change the rotors to EBC drilled/slotted.


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## exwrx (Apr 5, 2007)

kiwinz8 said:


> Yes I'd already read this and many others on the forum and internet, I can't find none with a good result.
> The one you mentioned had same problem with Hawks as the OEM brakes and is going to try EBC Red and is going to try and remove the fog lamps, but it doesn't say it worked.
> Cheers, Bryce.


In order for this fat pig to come to a stop from high speeds, we must look down under for answers....lol.

The Hawk DTC 60/70 pads work, don't bother with the blue. Another GTO driver had the blue's, and felt that they provided sufficient bite, but had a problem with heat as well. Bottom line is that after only a couple of hard brake zones, rotor temps will exceed 1100 fahrenheit with ease. It appears that the OEM SAP kit, as well as some of the monaro race cars, all have ducts for brake cooling purposes. If you're trying to slow her down, you'll need to maintain, or control the rotor temps. Even top of the line race pads will fail once you start hitting 1200-1400 degrees. around 950-1000 they'll start glowing depending on the rotor you're using.

So.... EBC red is a good choice, Hawk DTC is even better, but you're best investment, is a new front bumper skin, with fogs removed and ducts added to cool braking surfaces. You can get a new 3rd party OEM replacement bumper for under $200 + $4 for some dryer duct from Home Depot. That WILL do the trick. If you're crying about pulling the bumper..... please... it's like 6 phillips screws, and some clips. 10 minutes tops. Also, don't even bother painting the bumper. Leave it as is, save your cash for more pads and rotors.

On a side note.... you need to invest in some ATE brake Fluid (super Blue, or the red equivalent) or other comparable product, as well as stainless lines. The rubber lines go much earlier than the pads or rotors.


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## kiwinz8 (Sep 29, 2008)

Thanks I will do this.
Where can I get a bumper?
Cheers,
Bryce.
Go All Blacks


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## exwrx (Apr 5, 2007)

kiwinz8 said:


> Thanks I will do this.
> Where can I get a bumper?
> Cheers,
> Bryce.
> Go All Blacks


I got a damaged one from a junk yard for $80. It had a tear in the middle, nothing big... I reglued it for the Frankenstein look, adding zip ties for good measure... lol. 

Junk yards are your best bet. Then body shops. Ask them for spare fronts on recently damaged/crashed cars. As long as tears aren't too big, you can staple/zip tie/glue a front bumper for race purposes. They can't use even bumpers in great condition, because of the now marred surfaces, and slight warping.


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## [email protected] (Jun 9, 2008)

I have the Hawk pads and the DBA rotors on my GTO, and they work great. 

The 4000 series Wiper 6x6 Slotted rotors are very good and can take the abuse.

We offer 3 levels of Rotors, and 3 levels of Pads, so everyone can find something that will work for them.


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## exwrx (Apr 5, 2007)

[email protected] said:


> I have the Hawk pads and the DBA rotors on my GTO, and they work great.
> 
> The 4000 series Wiper 6x6 Slotted rotors are very good and can take the abuse.
> 
> We offer 3 levels of Rotors, and 3 levels of Pads, so everyone can find something that will work for them.


I can vouch for the 4000 series slotted rotors as well, the temp strips were tremendously helpful, even more so when you consider that I managed to change all three to white and orange...lol. ... Which pads do you have? What temp ratings?

For race purposes, the pads must be able to operate up to 1400 degrees. A few strong triple digit brake zones will easily reach over 1100 degrees, meaning that a 1200 degree pad will be, if not reach, it's maximum operating temp.


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## [email protected] (Jun 9, 2008)

I have the Ceramic pads, i'm not sure on the temps, as i haven't tracked the car with them other than auto crossing. 

If you were looking for a race only pad i would go with the HP Plus pads, they will stop things in a hurry.


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## exwrx (Apr 5, 2007)

[email protected] said:


> I have the Ceramic pads, i'm not sure on the temps, as i haven't tracked the car with them other than auto crossing.
> 
> If you were looking for a race only pad i would go with the HP Plus pads, they will stop things in a hurry.


yeah.... about those.........I'll post a pic to help answer that one...lol. They make a great Auto-X pad, or aggressive street pad.... but as for "racing" purposes, they leave a bit too much for the asking.

I crowned mine, they are now crumbling apart, and sport a mirror finish on the surface of the pad itself. lol. The black paint on the back of the pad has bubbled or been completely burned off. They are NOT a good race pad, as their temp rating is obviously not high enough. They are a great Auto-X and Canyon pad, as the bite in is strong, and fade resistance is extremely high. Higher than one would ever encounter anywhere but at a big track.


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## [email protected] (Jun 9, 2008)

I've had a number of people that have had good results with them on the track, if your brakes are getting that hot maybe you should try a different line or go to a more 'soft in, hard out' style of driving.


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## Rukee (Feb 8, 2007)

Oh-No you di~n't!


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## exwrx (Apr 5, 2007)

Rukee said:


> Oh-No you di~n't!


LOL..... I smell a debate/pissing contest in the making:lol::lol:

Seriously though..... as noted in the link above, the problem seems to be airflow over the rotor. I agree that during track events, my rotors shouldn't be seeing such high temps.... but then again....










Maybe I'm just driving harder than the goat can take it....


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## exwrx (Apr 5, 2007)

I also have to agree with Rob that the Hawk HP Plus has worked great for a number of other people, and were recommended to me by other drivers during the last NASA event I attended.

It seems that most people in lighter cars, less aggressive driving, have exceptional results with this pad. 

I also have to concede that the pads held up commendably for about 4-6 laps before I noticed fade/decreased stopping distance.

My driving leaves little room for error, meaning that when the brakes fail... I hit cones...:lol: 

If you can, Rob, find out what pads you have that are capable of handling 1200+ temps, and I'll be glad to order a set and try them out.


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## exwrx (Apr 5, 2007)

152 MPH..... may be the cause behind my brake failures....lol.


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