# too much Camber on drivers side



## deanhickey (Apr 6, 2015)

after rebuilding the front end my drivers side tire has a outward lean of about 10 degrees. I counted and measured the old tie rods . it does go nice and straight down the road. any suggestions?


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## LATECH (Jul 18, 2018)

Get it aligned


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## armyadarkness (Dec 7, 2020)

Youre saying that it's "leaning out" which would describe camber, but you also mention a tie rod repair, which primarily affects "toe in and toe out".

If the tire isnt pointing straight ahead, that's toe in and out. As for counting threads, it doesn't work so well when changing to a new part, since the new one might have 4 inches of threads and the old may have only had 3 inches. Did you compare them side by side?

Whenever I swap a tie rod part, I measure overall length, since tie rods vary so wildly from manufacturer to manufacturer.

Anywho, while an alignment is usually a welcomed job on a 50-year-old car, if you're looking to just get it close:

Drive it straight, steering wheel straight, and stop. With and assistant, use a tape measure to measure between the center of the front of the front tires, then compare it to the center back of the front tires. The front measurement should be no more than 1/4 shorter than the backside of the wheels.

As for camber, you can check that by holding a level against the top and bottom of the front rim.

I do my own alignments and I get them very close... Close enough to cruise at over 80mph without any shaking or vibration. 

You can even buy very cheap digital angle meters now and then simply cut a piece of angle to rest on the rim. Many youtube videos about it all.

I use a set of tools from a company called tenhulzen... Im a big Firestone Lifetime Warranty Alignment fan, but after 20 years of using them, there are no longer any employees who know how to agjust anything prior to 1998. Last time the shop manager had to do it, which was a nightmare to schedule... and once he couldnt figure out how to turn on the headlights, and had no idea what a choke was... I gave up.


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## armyadarkness (Dec 7, 2020)

Here's what I use... Check out the site for some ideas!





STORE - Tenhulzen Automotive | WheelAlignmentTools.com


We have a diverse range of wheel alignment tools and gauges. Whether you want to measure toe, camber, caster, or all three, we have you covered.



www.wheelalignmenttools.com


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## armyadarkness (Dec 7, 2020)

And in the future, whenever you change a tie rod, lay the old one on your work bench and mark how long it is, center to center (usually where the grease fittings are). Make the new one to size


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## Lemans guy (Oct 14, 2014)

Portable Wheel Alignment Tools | QuickTrick Wheel Alignment for Cars, Trucks
 

QuickTrick® Alignment is the leader in accurate, affordable and portable wheel alignment tools. Our award winning tools are in use in over 100 countries.




quicktrickalignment.com





Here is another one that I use and you can do it yourself.


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## armyadarkness (Dec 7, 2020)

Lemans guy said:


> Portable Wheel Alignment Tools | QuickTrick Wheel Alignment for Cars, Trucks
> 
> 
> QuickTrick® Alignment is the leader in accurate, affordable and portable wheel alignment tools. Our award winning tools are in use in over 100 countries.
> ...


cool!


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## armyadarkness (Dec 7, 2020)

I did a 4-wheel alignment on my vette with one and it was perfect


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## deanhickey (Apr 6, 2015)

armyadarkness said:


> Youre saying that it's "leaning out" which would describe camber, but you also mention a tie rod repair, which primarily affects "toe in and toe out".
> 
> If the tire isnt pointing straight ahead, that's toe in and out. As for counting threads, it doesn't work so well when changing to a new part, since the new one might have 4 inches of threads and the old may have only had 3 inches. Did you compare them side by side?
> 
> ...


I have positive camber on one wheel. the toe seems to be correct I measured and counted threads. thanks for the advise


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## deanhickey (Apr 6, 2015)

deanhickey said:


> I have positive camber on one wheel. the toe seems to be correct I measured and counted threads. thanks for the advise


I will need to inspect my control arm shaft and the shims.


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## pontrc (Mar 18, 2020)

That’s where I would look dean . The shims
On the upper control arm


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## armyadarkness (Dec 7, 2020)

I must have missed something. He's describing a camber change, from a tie rod replacement. In any event, yes, if it's camber, than control arm shims are the culprit.


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## Toucan49 (May 1, 2020)

armyadarkness said:


> Youre saying that it's "leaning out" which would describe camber, but you also mention a tie rod repair, which primarily affects "toe in and toe out".
> 
> If the tire isnt pointing straight ahead, that's toe in and out. As for counting threads, it doesn't work so well when changing to a new part, since the new one might have 4 inches of threads and the old may have only had 3 inches. Did you compare them side by side?
> 
> ...


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## Toucan49 (May 1, 2020)

what specs do you use on your alignment, I did mine to factory shop manual of almost 0 and later read newer thinking promotes more positive castor


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## armyadarkness (Dec 7, 2020)

I have all Global West stuff now, which builds camber and caster into the design, so they provide their own specs.


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## Lemans guy (Oct 14, 2014)

My 66 has front disc brakes now with different spindles. So factory setting is not the same

I set mine at …..

Caster +1 +/-1/2
Camber +1/4. +/- 1/2

Toe in 1/16th each wheel. Total toe 1/8

Yes more positive caster helps straight line tracking. Car stays steady ahead, supposed to make it a hair more effort to turn, but not noticeable.

More positive castor gives a better ride.


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