# Finally got my ride



## dave84 (Nov 3, 2010)

Been driving several different classics over the years, and finally Thursday brought home the one I've truly always wanted. Didn't go financially too far out there with a goat, 1966 Lemans, bodywork and frame all done, 455, original 2 speed powerglide, one leg 10 bolt. Time to start having fun...


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## geeteeohguy (Feb 2, 2008)

Sharp looking car! I would suggest removing the GTO-clone emblems off the fenders, leaving the GTO hood, and installing a 3 speed TH 350 transmission as funds permit. The real first gear of a TH350 will give the car a ton of performance....night and day. Straight bolt in. Your car isn't a Powerglide....it's a SuperTurbine 300, which is a heavier duty unit and not used by Chevrolet. Your car looks to have nice original interior, too. My first car at age 18 was a '66 GTO 40 years ago....but I always liked the tail lights of the LeMans better. Have fun with it!


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## dave84 (Nov 3, 2010)

Thank you! I was planning on a 350 or 400, posi in the rear, remove air shocks, taller springs back there and just enjoy it!


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## geeteeohguy (Feb 2, 2008)

Great plan. Car looks like they used to circa 1980, when they were 13-15 year old used cars. Looks pretty original and unmolested which is a good thing. You should hunt down the missing rocker trim, wheel well trim. and window drip rail trim...it would dress it right up. Looks like it's painted 1967 Regimental Red, which I like better than the '66 Montero Red. Hard to beat the lines of a '66-'67 Pontiac A-Body!!


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## integrity6987 (May 10, 2017)

congrats!


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## dave84 (Nov 3, 2010)

geeteeohguy said:


> Great plan. Car looks like they used to circa 1980, when they were 13-15 year old used cars. Looks pretty original and unmolested which is a good thing. You should hunt down the missing rocker trim, wheel well trim. and window drip rail trim...it would dress it right up. Looks like it's painted 1967 Regimental Red, which I like better than the '66 Montero Red. Hard to beat the lines of a '66-'67 Pontiac A-Body!!


The PO said the body was amazingly clean after blasting, saw the photos, one fender patch, one quarter patch. Dont know yet the paint info, but recent and good quality. I'm going to go for the rockers, wheel well trim, but more a gto look minus emblems.


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## dave84 (Nov 3, 2010)

integrity6987 said:


> congrats!


Thanks, shock hasn't set in yet, but so happy to have it.


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## dave84 (Nov 3, 2010)

geeteeohguy said:


> Sharp looking car! I would suggest removing the GTO-clone emblems off the fenders, leaving the GTO hood, and installing a 3 speed TH 350 transmission as funds permit. The real first gear of a TH350 will give the car a ton of performance....night and day. Straight bolt in. Your car isn't a Powerglide....it's a SuperTurbine 300, which is a heavier duty unit and not used by Chevrolet. Your car looks to have nice original interior, too. My first car at age 18 was a '66 GTO 40 years ago....but I always liked the tail lights of the LeMans better. Have fun with it!


Btw, appreciate the info, superturbine. Been in a Ford for a minute, forgot some details. Will a superturbine hold up to a 455? Street car with some spirited driving. Not a drag car. Was told a '73 455, need to look st the numbers.


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## Lemans guy (Oct 14, 2014)

Super Lemans! Mine is a 1966 As well and I have a 461 Stroker motor. Listen to geeteeohh guy on that trans. I did what he recommended to me a few years ago, I took out the super turbine 300...And put in a 350 TH with a shift kit and a dual gate shifter. Really great,bolts right in no drive shaft change needed. 

The 350 is a strong trans, but I also added a “Ratchet Diode” put in by Performance Torque Converter PTC,... they build the race converters and transmissions too. They said they put it in drag cars and it would take a thousand foot pounds of torque, and they have not broken one yet.

Butler said my engine would have about 500 to 550 ft lbs of torque, so the 350 can easily take it and may have been ok anyway.

I then put in a gearvendors overdrive, had to put in a new driveshaft and crossmember, but that is awesome as well.

Your car is super, enjoy it, and congratulations!


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## riverwabbit703 (May 13, 2019)

Very nice! Nothing like 1st gen!


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## dave84 (Nov 3, 2010)

Lemans guy said:


> Super Lemans! Mine is a 1966 As well and I have a 461 Stroker motor. Listen to geeteeohh guy on that trans. I did what he recommended to me a few years ago, I took out the super turbine 300...And put in a 350 TH with a shift kit and a dual gate shifter. Really great,bolts right in no drive shaft change needed.
> 
> The 350 is a strong trans, but I also added a “Ratchet Diode” put in by Performance Torque Converter PTC,... they build the race converters and transmissions too. They said they put it in drag cars and it would take a thousand foot pounds of torque, and they have not broken one yet.
> 
> ...


Thanks for your story, I was thinking a th400, my guy says driveshaft modification is needed, but if a good 350 can hold up with a straight swap I'll do that. So I had the mechanic over today who built this car with the PO. The 455 was bored and built, he had opened it up when purchased, all good new parts! What a relief, not a motor that "may or may not" be fresh. Starter gear was destroyed so hes replacing that. I have no time and just want to drive for a few months.


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## Lemans guy (Oct 14, 2014)

Yes the 350 is strong and you can buy it built with a stronger Sprague or even a ratchet diode like I did, bolts right in no crossmember moving or driveshaft cutting..

Check out Coan Transmissions....they can do it many others as well


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## dave84 (Nov 3, 2010)

With a strong 455, would a 10 bolt built up be wise or at what they can do move to a 12. I'm going to do both the trans and rear, but will do each over time. Not sure which is the better starting point though.


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## dave84 (Nov 3, 2010)

First order of business is new rear springs. Car was bought all new stock suspension, 235 tires up front, 275 out back, yet the heights at hubs are 27.5" to lip in front and 25.5" to quarter lip, both at highest points. Rocker too, at front 11 5/8" in front, 11 1/4" in front of quarter. Strange.......

Bought s pair of Eaton springs and Moog 5235 wagon springs, same height, seam to be similar coil and distance between.


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## motown (Jul 7, 2018)

*Ride height*



dave84 said:


> First order of business is new rear springs. Car was bought all new stock suspension, 235 tires up front, 275 out back, yet the heights at hubs are 27.5" to lip in front and 25.5" to quarter lip, both at highest points. Rocker too, at front 11 5/8" in front, 11 1/4" in front of quarter. Strange.......
> 
> Bought s pair of Eaton springs and Moog 5235 wagon springs, same height, seam to be similar coil and distance between.


Here's some comments on ride height: https://www.gtoforum.com/f50/66-gto-ride-height-27913/

I have a '66 with air shocks (I think factory optioned if I remember correctly), anyways... I'm so used to the rear being slightly higher on my cars that I was shocked to see that the rear measurement at the rocker at factory spec is actually slightly lower than the front. If you're interested I'll check my files for the information that I found.


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## Instg8ter (Sep 28, 2010)

dave84 said:


> With a strong 455, would a 10 bolt built up be wise or at what they can do move to a 12. I'm going to do both the trans and rear, but will do each over time. Not sure which is the better starting point though.


i have a TH350 built for 600 hp and still beating up my peg leg 2:56 after 9 years. 462 motor is putting out around 500TQ and no issues yet. if you have sticky tires it might be a different story. Have a 3:55 12 bolt waiting to go in when the 10 gives out.I agree with GEETee on the taillights. so much i had to find the center piece that was only on the LeMans. Also on the badges, you can get repo ones for the lemans and tempest now, i would take gto's off and leave hood maybe get the GTO front grille. Like This.

I used combination of Moog wagon springs and airbags, with a little lower profile front tire to get a 1" rake to the car without effecting geometry or handling.


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## dave84 (Nov 3, 2010)

Instg8ter said:


> dave84 said:
> 
> 
> > With a strong 455, would a 10 bolt built up be wise or at what they can do move to a 12. I'm going to do both the trans and rear, but will do each over time. Not sure which is the better starting point though.
> ...


Great thanks for the response on springs. What's your tire setup? Looks clean and balanced, not a lot of rake with wagon springs. I'm thinking trans first, then spin both 10 bolt wheels down the road after reading many opinions/articles.


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## Instg8ter (Sep 28, 2010)

15" 235/60 fronts and 245/60 rear with 2 1/2" or more offset (important because the rears WILL rub under compression and fronts may rub when cutting sharp backwards in reverse with 245's and you dont want to have to trim or roll the 2" fender lip.) with the new springs it will sit a little high until they break in then it will settle. Wagon springs have a stiffer compression rate for more load and will eliminate some of the roll and make it more responsive in the corners. Another upgrade is a new steering box with a closer ratio 3 turn stop to stop. I also upgraded to power brakes with slotted disks in front. these can both be done on a budget with circa 70's GM parts from yard or store and make a huge difference in the ride, safety and handling of the big cars.


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## GTOJUNIOR (Aug 7, 2011)

Nice Starter Dave! 
Always liked the Trim details of the '66 Lemans. 
Bought one of my first in '83 while living in Long Branch NJ.

Best of luck with it.


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## dave84 (Nov 3, 2010)

Ok, so came across something interesting and need help... battery seemed to be lagging so I swapped out to a 800 Cranking Amp, not Cold Crank Amp. Once I installed, it is 97% starting but wont fully fire, kept trying and resting an hour in between. Took off the air filter, tried 3 times, on the third saw gas spray up. 30 over 455, stock starter, gas in fuel filter, mechanical fuel pump, clean gas, Weber carb. Distributor bolt is tight. Could the Weber carb be off?


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## PontiacJim (Dec 29, 2012)

dave84 said:


> Ok, so came across something interesting and need help... battery seemed to be lagging so I swapped out to a 800 Cranking Amp, not Cold Crank Amp. Once I installed, it is 97% starting but wont fully fire, kept trying and resting an hour in between. Took off the air filter, tried 3 times, on the third saw gas spray up. 30 over 455, stock starter, gas in fuel filter, mechanical fuel pump, clean gas, Weber carb. Distributor bolt is tight. Could the Weber carb be off?




Seeing it is "almost" firing, sounds like a timing issue or the engine may be flooded.

What you did not tell us is:

1.) If it ever ran?

2.) If you messed with the distributor, wires, plugs, timing, etc..

3.) If you ever messed with the carb. Not familiar with a Weber carb. Gas shooting up and out on a typical carb would almost indicate that the throttle plate is fully closed and the idle screw needed to be screwed in a bit to open the plate to allow air in with the gas - gas would then shoot down into the carb.

You could pull spark plugs and see if they are wet - this would indicate flooded out. If you don't have any smell of gasoline - then the engine is not getting gas through the Weber.

Getting 12Volts at the coil when cranking?

Make sure distributor wires are in the correct position - you could be 180 degrees off. Ensure that the engine is at Top Dead Center of the compression stroke with both rocker arms even (intake & exhaust valve closed) - this is when the piston is ready to be fired by the plug. You can confirm by looking at your timing mark on the harmonic balancer. Then confirm your No1 plug wire is inserted in the correct cap hole, then lift up the cap, confirming the rotor is lined up with the No1 cap/wire.

Check timing. If the timing is too retarded, it will not start. Remember, not a Chevy engine so the distributor rotates Counter Clock Wise (CCW). To advance the timing, turn the distributor clockwise into the CCW rotor.

Could have possibly jumped timing if the timing chain & gears are worn. If it spun over real fast and did not pop/almost catch, then that would be a timing chain issue.

Give us more info. :thumbsup:


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## dave84 (Nov 3, 2010)

PontiacJim said:


> dave84 said:
> 
> 
> > Ok, so came across something interesting and need help... battery seemed to be lagging so I swapped out to a 800 Cranking Amp, not Cold Crank Amp. Once I installed, it is 97% starting but wont fully fire, kept trying and resting an hour in between. Took off the air filter, tried 3 times, on the third saw gas spray up. 30 over 455, stock starter, gas in fuel filter, mechanical fuel pump, clean gas, Weber carb. Distributor bolt is tight. Could the Weber carb be off?
> ...


PontiacJim,

Thanks for the response. Motor did run, took a minute always, changed the battery and now not at all. Did not mess with distributor or wires. I'll check the throttle plate, but havent had this before running the car. I'm having a friend come by with a timing gun to diagnose. Also adding a spacer to help.


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## dave84 (Nov 3, 2010)

Have a bud coming sunday with his timing gun, also very knowledgeable with Pontiacs, will check fuel system, plugs, etc for better starting as it usually takes a sec and that's not right, should start up on first turn. So Weber carbs, I cant find any strong detailed info on them. Anyone have any info there? Wondering if i should just swap out to an Edelbrock AVS 650cfm.


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## dave84 (Nov 3, 2010)

So our last findings on Sunday were this. My bud saw the 455 getting 97% there, checked timing which he said was good, removed the vacuum advance from the distributor which did help the car to start several times, reconnecting while car was running was no problem, every time we went to start with it connected is when it wouldn't.

I paid attention to the fuel filter just before the mechanical fuel pump, fuel was trickling in, never filled or showed a high flow. Starter eventually got bogged down.

I hope someone has some info on the advance acting up. MSD distributor and coil. Going to relocate coil to firewall, get it away from heat.

Going to replace the fuel pump. Even though the carb is getting some fuel, the filter having such a tiny amount of fuel is odd to me, my bud said to the existing fuel pump is an older style, we agreed it might be heading out. Going to replace the starter with a mink high torque piece as well.


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## dave84 (Nov 3, 2010)

Realized I never gave an update. Turned out vacuum lines were incorrectly attached by PO. Advance and trans were teen's together. Along with a mini high torque starter, no more problems.

So, right now having a th350 built for easy bolt in. I'm looking at the rear, might as well. After looking for 12 bolts...yeah right...I'm leaning to just build up the 10 bolt it came with. Posi, low to mid 3, maybe a 3.55. This is a cruiser but I do want to go when the light turns green. Right now how it's set, with the 2-speed, I hate it. Sometimes I just go to the twin turno Taurus SHO on a nice day cause I'm in a hurry.

Secondly looking at an Edelbrock AVS2 carb. For the 455 low compression heads, what cfm should I look at? I see a lot the HO motor had an 800cfm, but for the base 455, I dunno.


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## dave84 (Nov 3, 2010)

Scrapped the edelbrock idea. Looking into a Qjet or Holley, both 750cfm. Researching this morning, either the Qjet for the more user friendly aspect I've been told but my research so far shows it's prone to heat soak due to float bowl in center. I'm sorta leaning toward a Holley, but have heard time and time again they require adjustments, although the rebuild spot I'm looking to purchase from, which came recommended by a Pontiac guy I trust, says that's not the case nearly as much as the double pumper. Either way, time for the 600cfm Weber to GO!


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## michaelfind (Dec 14, 2018)

Instg8ter said:


> i have a TH350 built for 600 hp and still beating up my peg leg 2:56 after 9 years. 462 motor is putting out around 500TQ and no issues yet. if you have sticky tires it might be a different story. Have a 3:55 12 bolt waiting to go in when the 10 gives out.I agree with GEETee on the taillights. so much i had to find the center piece that was only on the LeMans. Also on the badges, you can get repo ones for the lemans and tempest now, i would take gto's off and leave hood maybe get the GTO front grille. Like This.
> 
> I used combination of Moog wagon springs and airbags, with a little lower profile front tire to get a 1" rake to the car without effecting geometry or handling.


I'm almost finished with the installation of my stroker motor with dual quads in my 65. Yours always looks great. I can't quite see how you connected your throttle cable to the carburetor linkage. Did you use the stock bracket and cable?


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## Old Man Taylor (May 9, 2011)

dave84 said:


> Scrapped the edelbrock idea. Looking into a Qjet or Holley, both 750cfm. Researching this morning, either the Qjet for the more user friendly aspect I've been told but my research so far shows it's prone to heat soak due to float bowl in center. I'm sorta leaning toward a Holley, but have heard time and time again they require adjustments, although the rebuild spot I'm looking to purchase from, which came recommended by a Pontiac guy I trust, says that's not the case nearly as much as the double pumper. Either way, time for the 600cfm Weber to GO!


If the 750 you are referring to is a 3310, that's the single pump carb that used to be rated at 780. I did SIGNIFICANT mods to mine trying to get it to work right and be driveable. The big problem I ran into was the characteristic when I shifted gears. Each time it did a nose dive. After much work I went back to a tri-power and never looked back.


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## dave84 (Nov 3, 2010)

Which one Qjet or Holley? After talking to some guys and a lengthy conversation with the shop, I'm going with a Qjet 750. I spent a lot of time last night researching opinions, experiences, etc.

Feels good getting this Lemans in a working order. Next on the list, update the radiator and a 12 bolt or 9" out back. After looking for quite a bit, I may just have to hand Currie my money. Other side, just rebuild the 10 bolt. Too indecisive on that right now.


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## Old Man Taylor (May 9, 2011)

The 10-bolt will work fine for awhile as long as you don't punish it (slicks with traction). Part of your decision depends on how long you're going to keep the car. If you plan on keeping it forever, it's hard to beat the 12-bolt. I put mine in my car in about 1975. before that I broke an axle in the 10-bolt at the track. Since then I did break a couple of posi's (Mororso's) in the 12-bolt, but the axles were fine. I just had an axle work it's way off of the bearing (not good). It was the original '66 axle, and the bearing was a large Ford as part of my C-clip eliminator kit. I examined the axles and they showed no signs of punishment. They had not twisted at all, but they did show signs of some wear on the splines. However they would have continued on for a long time. That's on a 54 year old housing and axles that raced a lot. The Ford is stronger but less efficient. Unless you go to a highly modified engine, drag slicks and a trans brake, you don't need the 9" - unless that's just what you want. The only change required to run the 12 bolt is the U-joint, unless the yoke is changed to be compatible with the Pontiac.


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## dave84 (Nov 3, 2010)

Old Man Taylor said:


> The 10-bolt will work fine for awhile as long as you don't punish it (slicks with traction). Part of your decision depends on how long you're going to keep the car. If you plan on keeping it forever, it's hard to beat the 12-bolt. I put mine in my car in about 1975. before that I broke an axle in the 10-bolt at the track. Since then I did break a couple of posi's (Mororso's) in the 12-bolt, but the axles were fine. I just had an axle work it's way off of the bearing (not good). It was the original '66 axle, and the bearing was a large Ford as part of my C-clip eliminator kit. I examined the axles and they showed no signs of punishment. They had not twisted at all, but they did show signs of some wear on the splines. However they would have continued on for a long time. That's on a 54 year old housing and axles that raced a lot. The Ford is stronger but less efficient. Unless you go to a highly modified engine, drag slicks and a trans brake, you don't need the 9" - unless that's just what you want. The only change required to run the 12 bolt is the U-joint, unless the yoke is changed to be compatible with the Pontiac.


Its a street car, beer runner. Ill be keeping this one. Ive been working my way up to the 66/67 body. I've been told the 10 bolt is fine rebuilt stoutly, but if I decide to upgrade the motor or ls swap, I'm mentally prepared for a stronger rear. For the next couple years, its a bomber not a drag car.


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## dave84 (Nov 3, 2010)

Dropped my Lemans off for a trans swap this morning, waiting to pick up my Quadrajet 750 and delivery of my Cool Carb plate. Driving it today was a chore. I've been a pansy and never pushed it to hit second gear, PO got in my head of being gentle with it with the 455 and stock 2 speed. Slight incline on a main road from dead stop, never jumped pass 25mph... embarrassing.


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## dave84 (Nov 3, 2010)

Picked it up today and it moves so sweet! We did discover another problem I just started noticing last few runs around ny block. Front discs are locking up. Going to examine the rod tomorrow as after researching today, very common. Going to swap out the edelbrock/weber 600cfm for the rebuilt quadrajet 750cfm I picked up this morning. I noticed something odd, the brake booster vacuum line is a hard line running to the front of the edelbrock pontiac performer intake. Is this correct? Every car I've had was plumbed to the back of the carb if I remember correctly.


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## dave84 (Nov 3, 2010)

I'm looking through pics and the only other I can see is a 67 vert plumbed the same way, to the front intake:





__





Google Image Result for http://davidsclassiccars.com/images/full/1967-pontiac-lemans-convertible-with-455-engine-6.jpg






images.app.goo.gl


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## dave84 (Nov 3, 2010)

Can anyone identify my fuse panel? After a Google search, obviously this existing one is not a stock 66 lemans unit. Going to install accessory gauges and looking for the key on ACC. No ACC on this panel.


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## Jetzster (Jan 18, 2020)

dave84 said:


> Can anyone identify my fuse panel? After a Google search, obviously this existing one is not a stock 66 lemans unit. Going to install accessory gauges and looking for the key on ACC. No ACC on this panel.


Looks like the one in my ‘64 GTO
I believe The terminals on the right halfway down (To the right of the wiper / radio fuse were Key On or acc activated, the terminals on the right halfway up ,like right of cigar fuse were always on., you can see it’s internal voltage strapping on upper pic


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## GTOJUNIOR (Aug 7, 2011)

100% Correct for 1966 Lemans, heres mine...


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## Jetzster (Jan 18, 2020)

dave84 said:


> Picked it up today and it moves so sweet! We did discover another problem I just started noticing last few runs around ny block. Front discs are locking up. Going to examine the rod tomorrow


I’ve seen front discs lock up frequently when the front and rear brake line equaliser bar sittin on the lines in front of the Master Cyl. Is missing or mis-adjusted..


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## dave84 (Nov 3, 2010)

Jetzster said:


> Looks like the one in my ‘64 GTO
> I believe The terminals on the right halfway down (To the right of the wiper / radio fuse were Key On or acc activated, the terminals on the right halfway up ,like right of cigar fuse were always on., you can see it’s internal voltage strapping on upper pic
> View attachment 136179
> View attachment 136180


Thank you! So the ones with starting label UN and GL on the box or is it the Parking Brake at bottom the Key On?


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## dave84 (Nov 3, 2010)

GTOJUNIOR said:


> 100% Correct for 1966 Lemans, heres mine...
> View attachment 136184


Thank You too! Whats the bundle plugged into the UN and GL plugs? I'm trying to figure out the Key On for the accessory gauges.


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## dave84 (Nov 3, 2010)

Jetzster said:


> I’ve seen front discs lock up frequently when the front and rear brake line equaliser bar sittin on the lines in front of the Master Cyl. Is missing or mis-adjusted..


It turned out to be the booster rod and master were never adjusted. Had to shave down the rod, no problems afterward.


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## Jetzster (Jan 18, 2020)

Parking brake


dave84 said:


> Thank you! So the ones with starting label UN and GL on the box or is it the Parking Brake at bottom the Key On?


The parking brake terminal is key-on, 
just visualize when the device fuse directly to the left of any terminal would be on .
(Wiper or directional are key-on)
Cigar Or dome lite fuses on left Side of the Higher terminals Would always Just be on)


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## Jetzster (Jan 18, 2020)

dave84 said:


> It turned out to be the booster rod and master were never adjusted. Had to shave down the rod, no problems afterward.


Good deal you found it 

The word I was thinking of was the ‘proportion valve’ , which some people forget to add or adjust when converting to power brakes, it sits between the front and rear brake lines to equalise brake pressure


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## dave84 (Nov 3, 2010)

Jetzster said:


> Parking brake
> 
> The parking brake terminal is key-on,
> just visualize when the device fuse directly to the left of any terminal would be on .
> ...


Perfect now I'm ready to roll. Ill use the other terminal next to the parking brake light. Need to see what temp I'm reading after new fan clutch and thermostat. Hopefully the thermo is opening up. Got fluid in the upper hose luckily.


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## GTOJUNIOR (Aug 7, 2011)

I have power to Under Hood Light, Hazzard Flasher, and Parking Brake Warning Light.


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## dave84 (Nov 3, 2010)

Jetzster said:


> Parking brake
> 
> The parking brake terminal is key-on,
> just visualize when the device fuse directly to the left of any terminal would be on .
> ...


Jetzster, I think I'll connect all switched power on the gauges, piggy backing each so it's all one wire to key on at fuse block, safe to do? I read through the instructions and need an engine ground for oil pressure and temp, can you recommend a good spot for each? Looking at the motor, I'm not too sure.


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## dave84 (Nov 3, 2010)

Along with wiring all ignition wires together to one wire to fuse, could I wire all grounds to one wire off of gauges for the ground wire to engine as well?


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## Jetzster (Jan 18, 2020)

Should be able to combine the gauges by using quality 3M half taps and 16 ga wire needing the switched power to that Park brake terminal ok, note that the fuse directly to the left of the park terminal is an AGC 20A wiper , It has a lot of capacity, even if gauges somehow shorted to ground and blew the fuse You’d basically just lose wipers, and you then u could could Just pull the push on lug to remove them from the circuit and insert a new fuse,with a small blade or fuse puller, btw,you should have several spares for ALL Buss fuses on the block In glove compartment, AGC4,10,15,20
AGA20,AGW2.5,most areavail on Amaz, they are getting less common ,btw always be VERY careful when replacing any fuses as the block clips can be brittle with age and half of one can suddenly snap off, messing up your whole day,😩 
Gauge nite lites need to be tapped to a close by dash panel Lite the same way, they are riding on the AGC 4A Fuse at top left of block


dave84 said:


> Along with wiring all ignition wires together to one wire to fuse, could I wire all grounds to one wire off of gauges for the ground wire to engine as well?


You should be able to combine the grounds using half taps going to a small ring lug , at the top of brake pedal area thee are usually ground wires screwed down to the pedal frame ,Just add the ring term under one of them
As long as the engine is properly grounded to the frame -all is well


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## dave84 (Nov 3, 2010)

Jetzster said:


> Should be able to combine the gauges by using quality 3M half taps and 16 ga wire needing the switched power to that Park brake terminal ok, note that the fuse directly to the left of the park terminal is an AGC 20A wiper , It has a lot of capacity, even if gauges somehow shorted to ground and blew the fuse You’d basically just lose wipers, and you then u could could Just pull the push on lug to remove them from the circuit and insert a new fuse,with a small blade or fuse puller, btw,you should have several spares for ALL Buss fuses on the block In glove compartment, AGC4,10,15,20
> AGA20,AGW2.5,most areavail on Amaz, they are getting less common ,btw always be VERY careful when replacing any fuses as the block clips can be brittle with age and half of one can suddenly snap off, messing up your whole day,😩
> Gauge nite lites need to be tapped to a close by dash panel Lite the same way, they are riding on the AGC 4A Fuse at top left of block
> 
> ...


The night lights need to be wired to the panel separately? I didn't know that, I wired them in with the rest of the key on wires to the gauges. I'll have to re run that wire, thanks for the heads up!


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## Jetzster (Jan 18, 2020)

The 4A instrument panel fuse at top of block doesn’t appear to have a Push-on term to the right of it , so probably easier to tap off a usually grey wire on an existing panel lite ,like on the tach or speedometer 
those , like the 4A fuse, are downstream from the head-lite switch’s rheostat , and will let you adjust the nite time dimming On both panel and the gauges.


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## dave84 (Nov 3, 2010)

Jetzster said:


> The 4A instrument panel fuse at top of block doesn’t appear to have a Push-on term to the right of it , so probably easier to tap off a usually grey wire on an existing panel lite ,like on the tach or speedometer
> those , like the 4A fuse, are downstream from the head-lite switch’s rheostat , and will let you adjust the nite time dimming On both panel and the gauges.


Great thank you. Ill look under the dash for one off the speedo. Just splice in to is all it needs?


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## Jetzster (Jan 18, 2020)

Yes, good quality half taps do well, don’t even have to cut wires


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