# Dyno tune



## ineedabeer (Dec 15, 2008)

I got my '04 dyno tuned on friday and just thought anyone just getting started on their GTO might want to know what to expect. Mine is an A4 with AEM CAI, Magnaflow universal 4x9x11 free flow mufflers ( MagnaFlow Performance Exhaust is a link to exactly what I ordered, no issues with the installation either), Resonator delete, and Diablosport predator. First run on the dyno illustrated the issue of a fat fuel curve (11:1) with 269 hp (all this at the wheel). By the third run I had been bumped to 291 hp at 5800 rpm and 308 lb-ft at 4000. All in all, here are the costs:

Intake- Around $300, can't seem to find the reciept right now but as soon
as I do I will fix this.
Mufflers- just over $120 ea pre shipped.
installed- $70
Resonator delete- $55
Predator- $408 (includes USB cable and 2 day select shipping)
Dyno tune- $100

There is also a noticable improvement in the shift firmness (car likes to peel out from 1-2 and 2-3) and the magnaflows with no resonators + CAI sounds really good.

As I said, I just figured I would post this incase anyone else picks up one of these cars, jumps on the site and wants to have a more exact estimate of what they are getting themselves into.

P.S. Incase anyone was wondering what is next for the car, well, I have a couple Audiobahn Signature Series 12's that used to be in my Monte Carlo and I'm starting to look at some tinting shops to "murder out" my back windows a bit.


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## alsgto04 (Nov 21, 2007)

WOW those numbers seem to be low. If it was completely stock i do see you getting 291 but with does upgades you atleast could get 10-15 more. I will get that retuned it just dont seem right.


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## ROBSGTO (Jul 6, 2008)

alsgto04 said:


> WOW those numbers seem to be low. If it was completely stock i do see you getting 291 but with does upgades you atleast could get 10-15 more. I will get that retuned it just dont seem right.


It must be all in the tune,$100 great price,but you get what you pay for sometimes.


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## Corkster719 (Mar 11, 2009)

wow is the stock tune on these things really that bad?


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## ineedabeer (Dec 15, 2008)

Well, the car is an auto (auto generally means more power loss through the drive train, generally anyway) so were it a manual I would guess it would be more around 320-335 at the wheel, which seems perfectly reasonable to me. Then again, I'm still learning about the specifics of this vehicle, so I could easily be completely off on my opinion of this cars driveline power loss. Does anyone else have an auto with similar power adders that has went to the dyno? To be honest, the car feels like it's running about 410-425 bhp which I would think even with an auto should translate to 330-350 at the wheel, so their dyno could have been miscalibrated. What I know for sure is I've driven 12 second cars and my car right now feels like about a 12.9, give or take a tenth. But for sure, if someone else could let me know what their numbers were so I know if I should call shennanigans on them or not, I would much appreciate it, and in any event, 20+ wheel hp for $100.... well, that's money well spent.


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## ineedabeer (Dec 15, 2008)

Something else I was just thinking about, I bought the car certified used, but the factory spark plugs are supposed to be 100k mile plugs (they might last that long, but I doubt they will perform good as new that long) so they probably didn't replace them. I went ahead and ordered a new set of NGK TR55IX's, as well as a set of MSD 8.5mm wires. I'll throw those things on first, but does anyone know of another good dyno shop near zip code 61201 (an hour drive or so away, if it's farther away, say, closer to chicago or des moines, if you know the shop well could you pm me their phone number too please)? I know I'll wind up spending more money on something that was already supposed to be done, but I think the peace of mind will be well worth it.


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## Corkster719 (Mar 11, 2009)

Very true there is generally more power loss through an auto just didn't think that it would be that much. Your money does seem very well spent though for sure.


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## svede1212 (Nov 1, 2005)

the numbers he put up are what would be expected for a stock A4 and frankly that's pretty much what he has. i also don't put much stock in dyno numbers anyways as the altitude and dyno type affects the "number" as well as dyno calibration, etc. if the OP is looking for bang for the buck HP he should ask what's effective before dumping money in spark plugs, mufflers and intakes

PS, the stock 350 HP rating in crank HP not wheel HP


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## ineedabeer (Dec 15, 2008)

svede1212 said:


> the numbers he put up are what would be expected for a stock A4 and frankly that's pretty much what he has. i also don't put much stock in dyno numbers anyways as the altitude and dyno type affects the "number" as well as dyno calibration, etc. if the OP is looking for bang for the buck HP he should ask what's effective before dumping money in spark plugs, mufflers and intakes
> 
> PS, the stock 350 HP rating in crank HP not wheel HP


Good point. I forgot to add, this was a chassis dyno at about 600' altitude with an air temp of around 60 degrees and there was about 2500 miles on the oil (Valvoline full syn 5w30). As far as what I've gotten so far, intake, exhaust (mufflers, catback, headers etc), programmer, ignition are almost always the best place to start with adding power, but as far as products go, well, that was the whole point of the initial post. From what I saw in other posts on the forum (minus the brand of the mufflers, that was personal preference) these were the best products for their function overall.

Small peice of info for anyone still looking for a programmer, forget Jet. They are no good for the '04. Infact, from talking to a local performance shop, using the Jet tuner more often than not will cause a hp loss on the GTO. I was dumb enough to buy one unfortunately, because I had a stage II Jet chip in my 95 Monte Carlo Z34, which worked great, but that illustrates the point that, just cause a company's product works well in one application, doesn't mean it will work well in all of them.

P.S. hey svede, I work about two weeks a month during the spring and summer in Grayling, MI (it's about an hour from Traverse City, just incase you don't specifically know the town). If you know of any cool clubs or shows of any type that has to do with an internal combustion engine, pm me.


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## printans (Dec 29, 2008)

Ahhhh, Spike's Keg 'O Nails. Been too long since I've been to Grayling.


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## LOWET (Oct 21, 2007)

alsgto04 said:


> WOW those numbers seem to be low. If it was completely stock i do see you getting 291 but with does upgades you atleast could get 10-15 more. I will get that retuned it just dont seem right.


 Most stock 04 LS1s will put down 290-305 RWHP depending on the trans. 
If you had your car on a loaded Chassis Dyno. your numbers seem fair. if it was on a Dyno jet. they look a little low


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## LOWET (Oct 21, 2007)

ineedabeer said:


> Well, the car is an auto (auto generally means more power loss through the drive train, generally anyway) so were it a manual I would guess it would be more around 320-335 at the wheel, which seems perfectly reasonable to me. Then again, I'm still learning about the specifics of this vehicle, so I could easily be completely off on my opinion of this cars driveline power loss. Does anyone else have an auto with similar power adders that has went to the dyno? To be honest, the car feels like it's running about 410-425 bhp which I would think even with an auto should translate to 330-350 at the wheel, so their dyno could have been miscalibrated. What I know for sure is I've driven 12 second cars and my car right now feels like about a 12.9, give or take a tenth. But for sure, if someone else could let me know what their numbers were so I know if I should call shennanigans on them or not, I would much appreciate it, and in any event, 20+ wheel hp for $100.... well, that's money well spent.


Most of the stock LS1 GT0s that I have seen run around 305 RWHP with a 
M/6 trans and around 290 with a A/4


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## svede1212 (Nov 1, 2005)

ineedabeer said:


> Good point. I forgot to add, this was a chassis dyno at about 600' altitude with an air temp of around 60 degrees and there was about 2500 miles on the oil (Valvoline full syn 5w30). As far as what I've gotten so far, intake, exhaust (mufflers, catback, headers etc), programmer, ignition are almost always the best place to start with adding power, but as far as products go, well, that was the whole point of the initial post. From what I saw in other posts on the forum (minus the brand of the mufflers, that was personal preference) these were the best products for their function overall.
> 
> Small peice of info for anyone still looking for a programmer, forget Jet. They are no good for the '04. Infact, from talking to a local performance shop, using the Jet tuner more often than not will cause a hp loss on the GTO. I was dumb enough to buy one unfortunately, because I had a stage II Jet chip in my 95 Monte Carlo Z34, which worked great, but that illustrates the point that, just cause a company's product works well in one application, doesn't mean it will work well in all of them.
> 
> P.S. hey svede, I work about two weeks a month during the spring and summer in Grayling, MI (it's about an hour from Traverse City, just incase you don't specifically know the town). If you know of any cool clubs or shows of any type that has to do with an internal combustion engine, pm me.


that's a ways away from Grand Rapids , it's about the same distance to Chicago from here but i'll give you a heads up if something cool comes up


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