# Help with a Poor Boy 64 Tempest Restoration



## Carms_64 (Nov 11, 2012)

Help! I'm finally in a position to start working on my high school sweetheart. It was my daily driver in the late 90s. Then it went into grandpa's garage for the 2000s. 

When I put it away in 2001, it had a leaky windshield and rear window, so I took out the front windshield (broke it of course) and took the moulding off the rear window to see what was happening back there (did not remove rear glass). There are a couple of holes around the top of the windshield frame and some rusty metal around the bottom. The rusty areas around the bottom where the cowl meets the dash seem like they could be brushed out and may not need any replacing of metal. The top edge of the windshield frame seems like the most work. 

I haven't even started dealing with the rear window frame (I'm thinking I should deal with one thing at a time). The trunk and driver's rear quarter panel bottom are pretty rotten, but I know those panels are available. The floors of the car are in good shape somehow. I either need a new front bumper or to rebend and hammer it a little. I slightly rearended someone and it flattened the bumper somewhat. The entire interior will need to be redone at some point (I'm a furniture maker, so I can come up with something). 

I also just got the 215 six running the other day. It runs pretty rough at the moment, but it's been sitting for a decade, so no surprise. I want to keep the six in there, but make some modifications to get more power (I'm thinking Clifford Performance) and eventually get a better tranny in there (manual or th350?) 

I know this is going to be a long process. I don't want to do a concourse restoration, but something slightly modified and keep some original details. I just want to drive and enjoy the car. I'm just wondering if anyone can offer some guidance considering where I'm at (just getting my game plan together) and what I'm starting with. I do have some experience welding sheet metal (mostly mig for sculptural purposes). I've seen people do some magic on here, so I'm interested to see where this goes.


----------



## Goatnut (Jan 17, 2012)

I would suggest sandblasting the window frame first to get a real assesment of the work and repairs in store for you. Those holes above the passenger side would be easy to fix if that is all the damage. The entire repair looks like it would be behind the trim and not seen. 

for your bumper, if you are working on the cheap and want to get it "better" without bringing it to a chrome shop for straightening, I would not use a hammer but would work it out with an arbor press. 

If you have the original air-cooled bellhousing style trans, IIRC those have a chevy bolt pattern so you will need a trans with both the Chevy /BOP bolt pattern or a Chevy trans.


----------



## Carms_64 (Nov 11, 2012)

I hadn't thought of using a press for the bumper. I'm thinking I could maybe make a jig to make sure I don't press too far and get it where I want to. Maybe even use a bottle jack to do the pressing. I'll figure that end of things out.

I'm a little limited on space and what methods I can use because I'm renting my garage, so I'm thinking sandblasting is out unless I take it somewhere. Should a wire wheel or brush and elbow grease be enough to remove the rust and figure out what will be necessary?

If it is just those holes, would you recommend filling them with lead or brazing in some small pieces of metal rather than cutting out and welding in all new metal? And once the metal is repaired what should be done to treat it to prevent further damage? (primer then paint? por 15? something else?) I think I have good hands to do the work, I'm missing information on some of the processes.


----------



## FNG69 (Nov 15, 2009)

Looks like you have a good project for sure. To bad the drive is going to be to far for me to have fun too. Do you have a air compressor cause they make a back pack sand blaster that works pretty good. Do you need to see a picture of mine?? Love those 64's!!!!!!!!!!.. Les


----------



## Carms_64 (Nov 11, 2012)

Ooo...the rag top 64! That's a beauty! Send a link to the backpack blaster you're talking about. A compressor is on my list of things to purchase soon anyway as I need it for my woodshop also. How big of a compressor do you need for those things?


----------



## Goatnut (Jan 17, 2012)

Carms_64 said:


> If it is just those holes, would you recommend filling them with lead or brazing in some small pieces of metal rather than cutting out and welding in all new metal? And once the metal is repaired what should be done to treat it to prevent further damage? (primer then paint? por 15? something else?) I think I have good hands to do the work, I'm missing information on some of the processes.


I would take a die grinder with a cut off wheel and replace those holes with good metal. I would keep the patches between the two bends of the existing metal in the repair area. I would use a mig welder but brazing could also be used there. That area is accesible from the interior and I would load the POR or other rust inhibiting material in there to slow the return of the rust.

You certainly could accomplish any of this without sandblasting but because that area is also very prone to rusting, I would do my best to get it as perfect as possible. Sand, grind, naval jelly it to death...the rust that is.


----------

