# Hot Re-start trouble.



## Joe'sToy (Mar 9, 2012)

Hi Guy's,

I don't know if my problem is related to other posts about "Hot restart" issues, so here goes.

With the unusual hot weather we have been having I have a this problem: if I have been driving for an half/hour and stop and turn off the car for a real short time, say 5 - 10 minutes, then go to start again, I get nothing. When I turn the key the only thing that happens is the battery light comes on. If I wait for about 20 minutes or so, it fires up with no problems.

After reading through the site about "Hot start" problems, I checked my battery and my connections at the starter and the battery terminals as well, all are tight and clean. I have a heat sock/insulator on the positive wire, from the battery to the starter and it's not rubbing or anything. I just bought a starter insulator wrap and will install tonight. Will this solve my problem or should I be looking for some other cause, say the firewall wire connector or something else?

By the way, I did a load test on my battery and it's good. Thanks for any insight and suggestions.


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## jmt455 (Mar 26, 2012)

Get the starter tested for current draw when it's hot; it might be the starter but in my experience it's more likely to be the solenoid getting too hot. 

If there isn't one on the car now, installing a solenoid heat shield might help.

Moving the solenoid to a remote location (firewall) often eliminates the problem.


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## BearGFR (Aug 25, 2008)

Headers?

Sounds like the "classic" heat problem to me. Also check how your cable is routed to the starter and that is as well protected (or far away from) exhaust components as you can get it. The hotter it gets, the more resistance it has and that can add to the problem. The problem you're describing can be caused by "anything" from the battery to and including the starter getting too hot.

Bear


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## geeteeohguy (Feb 2, 2008)

With all of the early GTO's I've had, it's never been the starter or solenoid. Not to say that it doesn't happen....just not to me. For me, it has always been the 'S' wire that goes from the ignition switch to the solenoid. High resistance in the wire.You can verify this by clipping on a mechanic's remote starter or rigging up a jumper wire with and see if it starts right up. It's a quick and simple test, and if still no go, you can move on to the switch, solenoid, starter, etc. The last one I fixed was my '67....and the S wire was bad about 1" from the ign. switch. Good luck.


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## facn8me (Jul 30, 2011)

Agree with GeeTee except I run a starter relay off of a 74 scamp


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## Joe'sToy (Mar 9, 2012)

Okay Guy's, as alway's, excellant replies. I will be installing a heat shield for the starter/solenoid tonight after work. I have a car show tomorrow about an hour's drive away and the temps are supposed to stay in the 90's, so I'll find out tomorrow if this solves the problem.

I'll also check the resistor wire too, I have a remote start that I'll take with me, just encase.

Thanks again for all the help.

Joe.


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## geeteeohguy (Feb 2, 2008)

To clarify, it isn't a resistor wire...at least not on purpose. It _BECOMES_ a resistor wire with age and heat, and can provide many happy hours by the side of the road , stranded in the summer heat.


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## Joe'sToy (Mar 9, 2012)

Okay^^^^, understand, I got the heat shield installed, what a PITA, that was. Laying on my back with the front end up on stands. Managed to get the shield around the starter and solenoid, so I'm hoping it solves this issue.

On a side note, I got a set of Phelonic gaskets coming in the mail, from PontiacTri-power.com. This should help with fuel boiling in my Tri-power as well. I am also going to be replacing the gasket on my valley pan, next week, as it's leaking from the rear. The oil leak is flowing down the rear of the block, so this needs to be done asap.

Thanks for all the help Guy's, it's very appreciated.

Joe.


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## Joe'sToy (Mar 9, 2012)

Just a little update on my hot start problem. Finially found the problem, it was my solenoid on my starter.

Took the starter off, had it tested, the solenoid started breaking down as soon as it pulled in and the starter was drawing current.

Now have a brand new high torque high performance starter installed, also have the starter circuit wired directly from the ignition switch, works great.

I also install my new phelonic carb spacers, that I got from Pontiac Tri-power.com, they really work! no more fuel boil, that I can tell. Thye car really runs great, hot or cold and starts up easy as pie.

Thanks to everyone who helped me out. arty:


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## the65gto (Oct 9, 2008)

Can you explain exactly what you meant by "also have the starter circuit wired directly from the ignition switch" Did you bypass the bulk head connector or???bypass the resistance wire or ?? just curious


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## Eric Animal (Oct 28, 2007)

Glad you resolved your problem....just wanted to add one thing....Always check the Negative lead from the battery to the engine...this is just as important as the positive lead...they come loose...get corroded and can also get "cooked' at the cly head bolt. Eric:cheers


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## Joe'sToy (Mar 9, 2012)

the65gto said:


> Can you explain exactly what you meant by "also have the starter circuit wired directly from the ignition switch" Did you bypass the bulk head connector or???bypass the resistance wire or ?? just curious


Hi the65gto, sorry if I wasn't clear on my explaination. I now have a larger positive and negative wire going to the solenoid starter. I by-passed the smaller "S" wire hot from the ignition switch, so when the ignition switch is turned to the start postion, I have a direct power wire feeding the solenoid. I left the original wiring in place, just wrapped it in wire loom to make everything neat. And if I have to I can put the wiring back in place, but the original stuff was really brittle and hard.


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## geeteeohguy (Feb 2, 2008)

There should be no resistor wire going to the starter....only the ignition coil. Glad you fixed it, Joe!!!


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## Joe'sToy (Mar 9, 2012)

geeteeohguy said:


> There should be no resistor wire going to the starter....only the ignition coil. Glad you fixed it, Joe!!!


Your right geeteeohguy, just the old original wire was really brittle, as temps climbed the resistance in the wire increased and because my soleniod was drawing wat too much current, that didn't help either. The added new wire was just an extra step to make sure I didn't melt the old one from the ignition switch.

Thanks to all you guy's again for all the help. Certainly pointed me in the right direction. :cheers


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## facn8me (Jul 30, 2011)

Common problem


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