# Sticky  '68 Frame off Restoration



## Juice564 (Jan 17, 2016)

The day I brought the car home. Its a real 242 car but soon after the Catalina engine spun a bearing.


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## Juice564 (Jan 17, 2016)

Starting the tear down




































Frame disassembled


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## Juice564 (Jan 17, 2016)

Frame back from powdercoating


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## Juice564 (Jan 17, 2016)

New Trunk going in


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## Juice564 (Jan 17, 2016)

The whole trunk and underbody I plan on rolling on bed liner when the rust is removed.


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## Juice564 (Jan 17, 2016)

Rear axle was blasted and powdercoated as well. It was an open diff but not sure what the ratio was. It's now rebuilt with 3:36 gears and Auburn posi.


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## PontiacJim (Dec 29, 2012)

You are doing a great job. Has all the rust my '68 Lemans has. What's up with the rear corner caps at the rear quarters rotting out? I gotta repair mine as well along with trunk floor and quarters and...............


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## Juice564 (Jan 17, 2016)

hey thanks! Yeah I used the passenger side as a guide to get the contour right. It's a pain in the butt no doubt.


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## shoeman68 (Jun 7, 2015)

Looks great. I have yet to tackle mine. My 68 runs and drives but needs all the same type body work. Cashing in all my change and saving on a monthly basis to start it.


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## Juice564 (Jan 17, 2016)

Car looks to be about the same starting point as mine. I did some inspection on the driver side quarter and I think the work I've done is all for nothing. The quarter has rust issues throughout and think i'll most likely be doing a full driver side quarter.


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## dan woodland (Jul 24, 2013)

Looks great Juice564!! Nice work! I'm glad to see another GTO headed toward being back on the road! Keep us updated.


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## Juice564 (Jan 17, 2016)

Quick update, rear end of frame is now complete.


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## PontiacJim (Dec 29, 2012)

Looking good. I don't see any control arm braces. I would suggest adding them for insurance. Very easy to bolt up. I used the UMI braces as they have a slight bend to them that is supposed to better clear the floor - no hammering to fit. They are also adjustable for an easy line-up of the bolts, again, no hammering or fighting with them.

They come in red or black and have all the hardware to install -grade 8 bolts. Summit has them 4028-R & 4028-B. UMI sells them at the same price, but Summit offers free shipping over $100, so a little savings. UMI Performance Control Arm Reinforcement Brace Kits 4028-R - Free Shipping on Orders Over $99 at Summit Racing

There are other brands and even the factory style, which may be cheaper, but since you have it apart it'll be easy to install.


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## Juice564 (Jan 17, 2016)

PontiacJim said:


> Looking good. I don't see any control arm braces. I would suggest adding them for insurance. Very easy to bolt up. I used the UMI braces as they have a slight bend to them that is supposed to better clear the floor - no hammering to fit. They are also adjustable for an easy line-up of the bolts, again, no hammering or fighting with them.
> 
> They come in red or black and have all the hardware to install -grade 8 bolts. Summit has them 4028-R & 4028-B. UMI sells them at the same price, but Summit offers free shipping over $100, so a little savings. UMI Performance Control Arm Reinforcement Brace Kits 4028-R - Free Shipping on Orders Over $99 at Summit Racing
> 
> There are other brands and even the factory style, which may be cheaper, but since you have it apart it'll be easy to install.


I didn't even know those existed! I'll ad them to the list and go do some research on them. Thanks for the tip!


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## Nightshade 68 HO (Mar 11, 2014)

Juice 654,

Great job so far and yes my 68 had rot in the same spot as yours up on the top of the rear 1/4. As far as the braces, they were factory items for four speed cars, I would still add them to your project. Is that springmist green?

Anthony


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## DT-Fan (Oct 12, 2015)

Nice work! How many hours did you put into it up to now? Looking forward for the next pics!


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## BearGFR (Aug 25, 2008)

PontiacJim said:


> You are doing a great job. Has all the rust my '68 Lemans has. What's up with the rear corner caps at the rear quarters rotting out? I gotta repair mine as well along with trunk floor and quarters and...............


Mine were gone too, but only on the side where it had rusted through around the back window. I've decided that what must have gone on, is that once it eats through the window channel and starts leaking into the trunk (which takes out the wheel house, lowest portion of the quarter panel, etc. as I'm sure you're well aware) some of the water must cling to the inner underside of the quarter and flow downhill all the way into those corner caps.

Bear


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## BearGFR (Aug 25, 2008)

Nice work your'e doing there, Juice. let me add my vote for control arm braces. UMI does make some very nice ones that follow the contour of the floor and are also adjustable for length. That's what I have on my car.










Bear


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## PontiacJim (Dec 29, 2012)

BearGFR said:


> Mine were gone too, but only on the side where it had rusted through around the back window. I've decided that what must have gone on, is that once it eats through the window channel and starts leaking into the trunk (which takes out the wheel house, lowest portion of the quarter panel, etc. as I'm sure you're well aware) some of the water must cling to the inner underside of the quarter and flow downhill all the way into those corner caps.
> 
> Bear



Yep, I figure once you get water/moisture in the trunk it must rise and collect in those corners, especially on those hot days when the moisture is burned off & up. Surprised no one offers replacements yet as it does seem common enough. 

My trunk got rotted out due to the bad trunk seal which had rotted away and let water pour in, along with the window channel rot.


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## Juice564 (Jan 17, 2016)

Nightshade 68 HO said:


> Juice 654,
> 
> Great job so far and yes my 68 had rot in the same spot as yours up on the top of the rear 1/4. As far as the braces, they were factory items for four speed cars, I would still add them to your project. Is that springmist green?
> 
> Anthony


Funny you should ask that, when I bought the car I thought that was the color and that is the name of the color on the PHS documentation i ordered. However I kept finding factory silver overspray everywhere. Come to discover later the car is currently sprayed in Limelight green. Springmist green is actually more of a silver and will be the color the car will be going back to.


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## Juice564 (Jan 17, 2016)

DT-Fan said:


> Nice work! How many hours did you put into it up to now? Looking forward for the next pics!



Oh man I lost count long ago....


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## Juice564 (Jan 17, 2016)

Thought if anyone, you guys would get a kick out of this photo. The photo is from back in the early 70's and that would be my father and his car. Keystones and spring spacers for the win! Delux interior automatic with ac and power windows. 

Its pretty wild to think I now own almost the identical same optioned car he once had and was probably rolling on the same streets as his since my car lived its whole life in Minnesota as well.


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## PontiacJim (Dec 29, 2012)

Juice564 said:


> Thought if anyone, you guys would get a kick out of this photo. The photo is from back in the early 70's and that would be my father and his car. Keystones and spring spacers for the win! Delux interior automatic with ac and power windows.
> 
> Its pretty wild to think I now own almost the identical same optioned car he once had and was probably rolling on the same streets as his since my car lived its whole life in Minnesota as well.


Very cool. Keystones were very popular with the Mopar guys in my area, still a nice rim. Aluminum slots were also fairly popular, and of course, the old standby Cragars.

Jacking the car up in the rear was a fad in the 70's so you could stuff those N-50 "steam rollers" under your car. Some just went with the rear while others cranked up the front a few inches to give it an aggressive stance. 

Neighbor down our street had a wicked looking '68 Nova SS that was British racing green, white vinyl top, ass end cranked up with the N-50's hanging out the wheel wells on aluminum slots, very built 283 with 2 x 4 tunnel ram, M-22 4-speed, and the "bread box" hood scoop over the carbs sticking through the hood. The image of that car rolling past our house as a kid in high school is burned in my brain forever. :thumbsup:


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## Juice564 (Jan 17, 2016)

There happy!?


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## PontiacJim (Dec 29, 2012)

Juice564 said:


> There happy!?


Yeah buddy! Now you got it. :thumbsup:


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## Juice564 (Jan 17, 2016)

Didn't forget about you guys! I have finally finished the restoration and assembly of the frame.


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## Juice564 (Jan 17, 2016)

Front end is built with tubular control arms, and Proforged taller upper and taller lower ball joints. Not pictured I went with a Jeep Cherokee steering box upgrade from the stock box.


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## Juice564 (Jan 17, 2016)

Front brakes are Wilwood's 11 inch rotor dual piston caliper kit.


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## Juice564 (Jan 17, 2016)

Those who did not spot in the photo above, my buddy here makes sure I'm doing things correctly


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## chuckha62 (Apr 5, 2010)

Gotta have one guy supervising. It helps if he doesn't get distracted by birds though. Good job on the resto!


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## PontiacJim2 (Jul 6, 2016)

Juice564 said:


> Front end is built with tubular control arms, and Proforged taller upper and taller lower ball joints. Not pictured I went with a Jeep Cherokee steering box upgrade from the stock box.



Looking good, but I have a concern with the extended upper control arm ball joints. I realize with the engine/trans/body etc that more weight will affect the suspension. I am not suspension expert, but I would want to get an answer from the supplier of the ball joint. 

I gotta say I do not like the angle of that ball joint. I would be a little concerned about side load forces that I assume will be placed on the upper socket. It would seem to me that the attachment point at the spindle, being as far away as it is, might act as a fulcrum point and amplify the amount of force that will be applied to the socket at the ball joint. Hate to see something pop and cause a bad experience.

Just sayin' :thumbsup:


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## Juice564 (Jan 17, 2016)

front wheels are bowed inward a lot right now, I'll see how it looks down the line once the engine is in. I did check with another A-Body owner with same ball joints and he had the same spacing on the top. Thanks for input it made me raise an eyebrow too once i assembled it...


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## Juice564 (Jan 17, 2016)

Wiping the dust off this thread.... 

This is the original numbers matching engine sitting waiting for a refresh


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## Juice564 (Jan 17, 2016)

Each one is stamped .030 making it a 406


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## Juice564 (Jan 17, 2016)

Current state of the car, along with the rust issues that need to be addressed.




















Working out logistics to get the car out to some sandblaster and metal fabricators this fall. Right now thinking of checking out these guys:

Dirty Deeds Restoration - Home


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## dan woodland (Jul 24, 2013)

Great work Juice564! Always admired guys who completely teardown a car for a frame-off.


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## Juice564 (Jan 17, 2016)

Starting to gather the metal I need before I roll it out to the restoration shop...

Trunk lid seems nice but seams are all full of bondo and rust, so had to replace...



















Picked up the Hellwig FX frame box kit to have welded into the frame


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## Juice564 (Jan 17, 2016)

Well boys car has been dropped off at the restoration shop for body blasting, sheet metal repair and frame boxing. 










Getting ready to leave my house with the help of my father and his Yukon....










I'm in the blaze orange hat, making sure doors are ratchet strapped shut and the big boxes which are the new quarter panels are secure


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## Juice564 (Jan 17, 2016)

And we made it in one piece at the shop!



















Stay tuned for some future body work pics!


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## Juice564 (Jan 17, 2016)

Work has begun on my car at the shop. Very happy with their work, couple of very talented guys!

Body is back off again and getting prepped for sand blasting










on the rotisserie


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## Juice564 (Jan 17, 2016)

This was exciting to see the Hellwig FX frame box kit installed. Frame was tweaked and off by 1 inch so it was pulled back square and TIG welded in.


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## Juice564 (Jan 17, 2016)

Sorry for the blurry pics, they are really going to town now on the body:


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## PontiacJim (Dec 29, 2012)

WOW! Going to be a new car when done. :thumbsup:


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## Juice564 (Jan 17, 2016)

Pics from Friday...

New upper cowl being fitted and dash outer lip repaired:










New wheel tubs installed:










Driver side is done new tub, outer rocker and the Goodmark full quarter:


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## Juice564 (Jan 17, 2016)

Driver side trunk area where he cleaned up some of my messy work with new trunk drop skirts and sound deadener installed inside the panel.


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## 1968gto421 (Mar 28, 2014)

And to think how good it looked in your post #1 , who would have known? And 45 posts later it's looking real good as a solid basis for your restoration. Good going.


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## Juice564 (Jan 17, 2016)

Some more pictures not necessarily in the right order but gives you the extent at which he had to carve the car up.


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## Juice564 (Jan 17, 2016)




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## Juice564 (Jan 17, 2016)

Driver side cowl piece was rotted but passenger side was fine


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## Juice564 (Jan 17, 2016)

Rear seat panel was poorly patched and needed replacing


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## Juice564 (Jan 17, 2016)

Final blasting, sheet metal work all completed


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## Juice564 (Jan 17, 2016)

Frame painted and body in epoxy primer


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## Juice564 (Jan 17, 2016)

Back on Frame and time to come back home!



















My "I'm a happy *******" look


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## Juice564 (Jan 17, 2016)

Phase one of the restoration is complete, now have a great solid foundation to actually start putting this thing back together. Up next will be getting the engine sorted and cleaned and get it in the car this summer.

Thanks all for following along!


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## 1968gto421 (Mar 28, 2014)

Appreciate your thread. Great photos, keep them coming.


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## integrity6987 (May 10, 2017)

Rock solid - you'll enjoy for many-many years.


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