# Engine "non-start" dilemma



## The Patchwork Tiger (Apr 8, 2009)

Engine "non start" dilemma

Found a correct undisturbed low mileage '68 YN code engine for my convertible from a salvage yard. Carb, plug wires, dist. cap, coil, alternator and points are fairly new and have been brought over from my previous engine so I know these components are functional.


Did the following procedures:


Replaced the original unbroken nylon clad cam gear for steel and aligned with the crank.

Set harmonic balancer timing mark at '0' with #1 cylinder at TDC of the compression stroke.

Rotor tab is just past #1 and sits evenly between 1 and 8 in cap.

Negative lead from distributor to negative terminal of coil, black and red lead of positive to positive terminal of coil. 

Turned key to pre-start position, used a stick probe to test for current to positive side of coil - yes.

Points gapped at .018"

New plugs gapped at .035"

primed float bowl

pre-oiled engine with drill

Undid fuel tube at carb to check if fuel pump is good - yes



I have a temporary push button starter switch to view activity on the engine side. Pulled the #1 boot to check for spark jump . . . nothing, did the coil go bad? Cranking is smooth and un-labored, just will not fire. 

Thanks for the insight 

Alex


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## Rukee (Feb 8, 2007)

Do you have spark at the plugs??
The distributor may be 180* off. Pull the #1 plug and stick your finger in the plug hole, turn over the engine just till the compression pushes your finger off the hole then stop at TDC on the balancer, pull the cap and verify that the rotor is pointing towards the #1 post on the cap.


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## freethinker (Nov 14, 2009)

here is how i time an engine for first startup. verify correct cylinder by removing no 1 plug and sticking finger in the hole while cranking over until you feel pressure. then rotate your balancer to 6 degrees advance. then loosen the distributor and put the spark plug onto the no 1 wire. turn on the ignition and and slowly rotate the distributor body by hand until you see a spark at the spark plug. tighten the dist and install the spark plug and you should be within a few degrees of perfect.


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## geeteeohguy (Feb 2, 2008)

If your rotor is between 1 and 8 with 1 at TDC, that tells me your distributor is off. You need it to be exactly at #1 with the #1 cyl at TDC. And it has to be compression stroke, not exhaust, like these folks have said. Check your ignition points for spark...it should be visible when cranking with the cap off. If not, make sure that the points are physically opening and closing. Also, check voltage to the points. Should be around 9 volts or so...If you are getting spark from the points but nothing out of the cap, suspect the rotor or cap tower. Keep us posted and let us know what you find when you get it running (which you will!!)...


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## The Patchwork Tiger (Apr 8, 2009)

*Timing resolved!*

Yes, was probably one/two teeth advanced in the distributor with the harmonic balancer at 0. Discovered this in not getting enough rotation due to the vacuum tube hitting the block. Pulled up and turned rotor contact back to the firewall. Cranked over while moving the distributor . . . and the engine woke up! Temporarily set the points and distributor position, now for fine tune. Super smooth and quiet! Placed hand on the valve cover and could barely feel it idling.

Its a beautiful thing when you can find an engine from a salvage yard, have it be the correct code for your car, replace the factory seals, change fluids and spark plugs, turn the key and it starts like new. I speculate about 40-50k on the engine before junked.



Thanks for the insight!

Alex


Below is the scrapped vehicle and relic cam gear from the engine.


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## 66tempestGT (Nov 28, 2009)

yep lots of cracks in that gear. good call replacing that before running it any. glad you got it figured out.


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## geeteeohguy (Feb 2, 2008)

I love it when a plan comes together! Excellent.


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## The Patchwork Tiger (Apr 8, 2009)

*Cam gear*

Yeah definitely pulled the cam gear, a collector piece and automotive legend in itself! I was not expecting to get an engine, but seeing the condition of the gear meant low miles. Looked like the owner did nothing but drive it. No goofy hardware configurations, strange tube and hose redirects or rural experimentation. All original components and seals from the factory. All said and done I walked out with a complete year and code correct engine for $200. The only personal touch needed was to pound out the dent in the oil pan from being railed up and over whatever. No damage to the oil pickup body either.


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