# Body shop agreements



## MaL (Jun 12, 2008)

I'm taking the '66 to a mom-and-pop small time body shop.

What would you require to have written in the statement of work that prevents you from being burnt later down the road?

We've agreed his timeframe is 12 months, and ballparked the total $. What gotchas should I be aware of?


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## Too Many Projects (Nov 15, 2008)

The "ballpark" is maximum and ANY increases need to be approved by you. I would also get a detailed agreement as to what will be done.
I'm sure crustysack will have some advise too.


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## crustysack (Oct 5, 2008)

ohhhh dont get me started- get the "ballpark" in writing- this is a VERY loosely interpreted word you are using- $10000 is in the ballpark of $5000 depending on whoes ballpark your playing in. get an estimate in writing that encompasses ALL work to be performed and ANY additional work that the body shop says you need have them rewrite that in with a price and you both should initial or sign the new estimate. my car went from 3500-4000 estimate to over $10000 and the work took 14 months and I had a rock solid CA car that had NO rust issues.I would not want to see anyone else get burned like I did if a little friendly advice will help. Stuff will add up quick at body shop labor rates so GET IT IN WRITING!!!!!!!!!!!


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## Too Many Projects (Nov 15, 2008)

crustysack said:


> ohhhh dont get me started!!!!!!!!!


See........


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## palosfv3 (Oct 27, 2009)

Most states or municipalities have laws and regulations regarding auto repair , whether mechanical or body & paint. The one that I am familiar with gives the owner 3 options, 

1. an itemized estimate of the work to be performed with a $15.00 or 10% overrun without authorization.

2. an authorization for the shop to procede with the work but call for approval before continuing if the price exceeds $ XXXX.XX

3.I dont require an estimate and the shop can set the final figure without notification.

Getting an estimate for a restoration is much different than getting an estimate for minor collision damage on your everyday car. Time study data exists for many cars of the era but remember these times were for replacing new OEM parts on a new undamaged vehicle. Much can occur over 40 plus years if service some of which may be hidden and not known until the starting of work. Working on a dry state car is totally different than putting together a rust belt auto. 

When it comes down to the basics of what drives the cost its the condition of the car , how nice you want it to be and how dirty you want to get. *Your buying time !*

The other issue that is hidden in this discussion but hasn't been brought to light is " honesty and the fulfillment of the agreement". Can you trust the shop and can he trust you .

Now for the gotchas. 

What is the extent of the work needed ? A bare metal respray of a excellent lo mile original car ? Maybe not much. A frame off of a rusty barn find that has not been run in years? Significant.

This question is definately one you should discuss with the shop and work should not start until both parties are comfortable with the answers and how the situation will be handled if it arises. Their answers to these questions will also guide you in determining if they are the right person for the job.

I would recommend using a shop that understands what is involved in this type of repair. It is inheritly different than late model repair work.


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## crustysack (Oct 5, 2008)

honesty and fulfillment of the agreement- wow that statement says A LOT - the whole time my body guy says "wow this car is in great shape, I have never seen a car this old so solid , there are NO rust issues anywhere on this vehicle" and some how the job doubles+ in price so once again I will say DO NOT use coastline collision in narragansett RI and GET IT IN WRITING!!!


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