# Wrestling with Rust



## Indy1K (May 16, 2008)

Hi Gang,
As we start rescuing the body from the rust devils, I am looking for suggestions on the best way to handle the damage on the window channels, see attached pictures.
In years past, we would sand and grind it down, weld in new pieces where needed, treat it with metal prep and red lead the potholes. Sand and prime, repeat as needed. We also used poly-resin after metal prep. 
I am interested in knowing if you have any better ways of tackling this issue.
As always, thanks for the help.

Happy Holidays to all,
Kevin


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## mafiacustomz (Nov 10, 2009)

you think thats alot of rust look at the trunk pan in the 69 lemans im working on its on my myspace page


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## Indy1K (May 16, 2008)

it's a mess too! but I have no trunk pan, new trunk pans in but not welded. I have no floors, I have new pans to install. need new rear quarters too.:shutme Isn't this fun!http://www.gtoforum.com/images/smilies/gunnrounds0.gif


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## Chadwa (Nov 7, 2009)

I like to sandblast all the rust out. Then weld in new metal. And if I can, I will sandblast the backside of the rust hole area, that way the welding goes alot easier. I like to use an acid etch primer over the metal followed by primer surfacer. On the underside, a coat of epoxy followed by semiblack or whatever color you like. 
Chadwa


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## Fred007 (Jul 23, 2008)

Mine is a real mess as well. I had the whole body sans quarters blasted and primed. That really helped define what needed attention and what had enough metal left. My entire truck and the edges of both wheel houses had to be replaced. I'd also be interested in what folks do to patch areas, like the glass channels, where the rust has gotten in there, but there still is enough structure to work with? I've heard that All Metal is a good way to go, thoughts? I picked up a new front lower windshield channel from YearOne, but am not sure I will really need to go to that trouble. May just be able to fix what I have left.


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## Chadwa (Nov 7, 2009)

This is what I like to do. When I cut out the rust hole I cut it past the rust pits, at least the really deep ones. Basically pitted metal is thin. It is easier to weld in the patch when there is good metal (thicker metal). Easier to weld means a better weld. I butt weld all my panels, no overlapping. Fred007 take a picture of your rust and post it here.
Chadwa


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## Too Many Projects (Nov 15, 2008)

I agree sandblasting is the best but if that isn't available, a clean wire brush and/or wheel to knock off all the loose flakes and then treat with a rust converter. POR 15 or Eastwood have good products that stop the rust. Like Chad says, do the underside too or it will continue eating and eventually come thru again.


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## Indy1K (May 16, 2008)

Ok, great advice. I've got the sand blasting equipment. We basically blocked off the 3rd bay of the garage and made it a booth. Since the body is completley shelled out now except for the dash, do you remove the dashboard metal as well before blasting? I am getting a custom rotisserie built. My brother is a steel fabricator. Pictures to follow. This will allow me to get it all... Then replace the floor pans and the trunk pan, prime and paint the underbody before setting it back onto the chassis.
Am I on the right track????
Thanks,
Kevin


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## Too Many Projects (Nov 15, 2008)

If the front window channel and dash panel are usable after blasting, I wouldn't remove the dash. I would try to blast as much of the underside as practical and then spray a runny application of rust stop in the seams from above and coat the underside as a preventative. You'll probably be doing this same basic procedure under the rear package tray as it was left bare metal at the factory and it develops rust over time. I have all this to look forward to also...:cheers I have a complete 1 piece floor assembly here for mine as well as full length inner and outer rocker panels. I just got my NOS tail panel today. I will be ordering the 1 piece trunk floor assembly and possibly the brace over the axle. I haven't gotten that far to determine if it's good.


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## Fred007 (Jul 23, 2008)

Here are a couple of pics of my trunk area, mostly during and now.








What I started out with, sheet steel as trunk floor, PO also cut frame in half when "fixed"








Trunk with most of the rusty areas cut out.








With three piece trunk fitted in, and inner/outer wheel houses roughed out.

Will post a better pic of the trunk channel showing metal, don't have a good one handy right now.


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## Chadwa (Nov 7, 2009)

Looking good.
Chadwa


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## 66tempestGT (Nov 28, 2009)

looking good. makes me feel better about what i have to fix when i see pics like that. IMO all metal is no better than fiberglass stranded filler. just because it has aluminum dust in it and the word metal on the can doesnt do much for me. depending on how much rust is in the channels i dont see any problem with some filler in the holes as long as you get all the rust blasted off first then some etch primer. that goes for new panels too. if you weld in a new panel and then undercoat/prime/paint over surface rust somebody will be doing the job again eventually.


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