# Whinning.......



## 68greengoat (Sep 15, 2005)

No, not me....:lol: In front of the engine, high pitched. I figure it may be the water pump or alterator? It's not the belt. The noise goes up and down with the rpms. Been doing this for a few years. However, I just got back on the road for the first time in a year. It was doing it before this past year. Not sure if it's getting louder, or, just more irritating.

The alternator is charging at 14.4v. I tried the old school "yard stick" method of tracking down the problem. The water pump sounds quiet and the alternator is alot noisier. And, it's louder towards the back of the case, closer to the bushing. Bushing going? Like I mentioned, this has been going on for awhile. You would have thought something would have failed by now.

The noise is louder going down the road, especially 20 - 50mph, but never goes away. Ideas?

Thanks......... 68'


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## dimitri (Feb 13, 2009)

Try removing all of your belts and see if it makes the noise. This will tell you if it is an accessory or not. If it is not making the noise put the belts back on one at a time.


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## 68greengoat (Sep 15, 2005)

That was going to be the game plan to verify it is the pump or alt., but we went for a cruz. The noise is getting annoying. No acc'ys. 1 belt that runs the alt. and water pump.


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## geeteeohguy (Feb 2, 2008)

Take a long screwdriver and use it as a listening stick. My bet is that the rear alternator bearing is tired. I've run into this a lot of times. Water pumps almost never whine....they get gravelly-sounding but usually leak first......


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## jetstang (Nov 5, 2008)

Back in the day you could get an alt rebuild kit with bearings for $10. Now, a rebuilt one through autozone is under $30. Easy swap out and lifetime warranty.


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## 68greengoat (Sep 15, 2005)

Took the belt off, noise quit. Belt is new and sits even with the pulleys. So the pulleys shouldn't be worn. Spun the alt by hand. Can "hear" it spin. Not super smooth IMO.

Also, noticed the heater hose pulsates. I'm bypassing the the core and running it back into the block. When I grab the hose it feels like the fluid is pulsating in the hose. May be totally unrelated. Is that another issue? Or is that normal? I just happen to notice it this week for whatever reason.....


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## 68greengoat (Sep 15, 2005)

geeteeohguy said:


> Take a long screwdriver and use it as a listening stick. My bet is that the rear alternator bearing is tired. I've run into this a lot of times. Water pumps almost never whine....they get gravelly-sounding but usually leak first......


I used a yard stick. The rear does sound noisy. When I had a water pump go bad on a '70 chev pickup, it started leaking thru a weep hole under the pump. That isn't happening at the moment.



jetstang said:


> Back in the day you could get an alt rebuild kit with bearings for $10. Now, a rebuilt one through autozone is under $30. Easy swap out and lifetime warranty.


Ya, I had to change one out on '93 chev truck. When that alt went, I had smoke coming out of the hood. Popped the hood and the alt had a melt down. I was dead on the highway.

If you guys could also check my post #6 about the "pulsating" heater hose too?

Thanks....

Need to grab my daughter and look for wild mushrooms for the steaks we're having for supper. I shall return........


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## 68greengoat (Sep 15, 2005)

Found 'shrooms right away, oysters. A Father's Day treat. BTW, happy Father's Day to all you dads out there.

Thanks for the help, Jeff, Jet and Dimitri. Will be making a trip to O'Reillys, Car Quest or NAPA. Probably go right down the line until I find one, or, have to order.

Anybody have any word on the pulsating heater hose? I would have thought the fluid would flow smoothly. The "lope" wouldn't have anything to with that?


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## Eric Animal (Oct 28, 2007)

I wouldn't worry about the water pulse too much. you are feeling the bubbles, and liquid turbulence, etc. The lope might cause it also, because of the change in RPM......you can feel the water flowing in a pipe in your house too. Enjoy that steak and 'shroom dinner, it dosen't get any better than that.......E


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## 68greengoat (Sep 15, 2005)

Thanks, Eric. Trying to be proactive to avoid an on the road mishap. The alt is the first thing I had to do to the motor in the 8 years I've owned it. Except for a bad coil wire. It runs strong.....

Yep, the steak and 'shrooms were excellent. Something about going out in the woods and picking them off a tree and bring them home for the frying pan. These oysters grow on dead popal trees. Either still standing ones, usually snapped in half, or ones laying on the ground....


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## 68greengoat (Sep 15, 2005)

Pulled the alt. Trying to figure out what amp it is. Here's a pic of the only numbers I saw on it. I'm assuming it's not 37amp. Never heard of such a thing. Now would be the time to upgrade. What would be a good amp alt to go with, or, the max?


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## jetstang (Nov 5, 2008)

The only issue you may face is if it's internal or external regulated, stock is external. I would by a one wire alternator and just hook a 10 gauge wire straight to the battery on the output. $59 at autozone and lifetime warranty, don't know the P/N, but typical SBC alt. Then abandon all the other wiring. Alt light might stay on, just need an amp/volt gauge to make sure it's charging. That is a 37a alt, as these cars had limited items drawing amps. Show a pic of the terminals. Powermaster makes a great alternator, although more expensive and not needed if you aren't running electric fans, fuel pump, and a big stereo.


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## BearGFR (Aug 25, 2008)

Another thing that can cause an alternator to get noisy is a failing battery. It puts more load/drag on the alternator and can make them whine/growl. Happened on one of my vehicles first hand - otherwise it probably wouldn't have occurred to me.

Bear


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## 68greengoat (Sep 15, 2005)

jetstang said:


> The only issue you may face is if it's internal or external regulated, stock is external. I would by a one wire alternator and just hook a 10 gauge wire straight to the battery on the output. $59 at autozone and lifetime warranty, don't know the P/N, but typical SBC alt. Then abandon all the other wiring. Alt light might stay on, just need an amp/volt gauge to make sure it's charging. That is a 37a alt, as these cars had limited items drawing amps. Show a pic of the terminals. Powermaster makes a great alternator, although more expensive and not needed if you aren't running electric fans, fuel pump, and a big stereo.


Here's the back of the alt. Battery, ground and a plug with 2 connections, R/F. According to a wiring diagram I looked at, both wires go to the voltage regulator. Dark blue and black and white. Found the dark blue, brown and 2 black on the regulator. I suppose there could be a splice somewhere for the black and white. Someday I would like to install an electric fan. Are all single wire alts internally regulated? If I went that route would I eliminate the voltage regulator? If so, do I eliminate the wires connected to it, or, would some have to be spliced together? If I didn't go the single wire route but wanted to increase the amps, would I have to change the regulator to match the alt? Or, would my current regulator work with higher amp alts? Keeping in mind the current alt is only rated at 37amps.

Sorry for all the questions. Usually, I just replace the parts, apples to apples, and don't worry about it.

Thanks, 68'


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## jetstang (Nov 5, 2008)

Yep, that's external regulated.
I installed a 1 wire, self exciting from engine rotation, then ran a 10 gauge wire from the big hot to the battery, routed it to the back of the engine, by the master cylinder, through the fender and to the hot on the battery, clean installation.
I abandoned the wires to the regulator, either just leave the plug and put it behind the distributor or I cut mine, ea wire 1" shorter than the next and wrapped it up, so if someone wants to put it back the wires are still there.
All single wires are internally regulated. I think the Autozone one is 70 amps at $59, or a powermaster is $129 or so. Other parts stores also have them, just make sure it's a lifetime warranty!
Bottom line, install alt, abandon all existing wiring, 1 wire to the positive battery terminal from the Big alt connector. Hook up new volt guage to monitor charging. My alt light doesn't light up showing it isn't charging..


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## 68greengoat (Sep 15, 2005)

Decided to trace a wire that comes off the battery(1st pic). Goes to the drivers side to supply power to 3 other wires which are all soldered together(2nd pic), alt, horn relay and bulkhead connector. Fine. According to the wire diagram they are supposed to be connected, except the power is supposed to come off the starter. My guess, it was easier just to run a wire from the battery(previous owner). I'm going to rewire it to the starter where it belongs. Then I can clip the wire from the battery and add the one for the alt. Is there a better way to tie all 4 wires together? Just looks like a shotty job to me.

If I went with a 100amp alt, can I do any damage? Or, is it just overkill for the moment since I don't have any acc? I'm thinking it should be just fine. I eventually want to install electric fans and figure why get a bigger alt later when I need to change it now....

I was on Summit's website and saw the powermaster alts. Those were warrantied for 1 year from powermaster.

Thanks..... 68'


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## Eric Animal (Oct 28, 2007)

Basically...the Alternatorwill only feed the battery what the regulator "tells"it too......so no, a bigger alt. won't hurt. E


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## dimitri (Feb 13, 2009)

That 4 wire splice looks like a factory splice to me. They are generally good. I would leave it alone.


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## 68greengoat (Sep 15, 2005)

Eric Animal said:


> Basically...the Alternatorwill only feed the battery what the regulator "tells"it too......so no, a bigger alt. won't hurt. E


Thanks E. Just wanted to verify I wasn't going to do something that could potentially leave me stranded on the road. Has yet to happen in the 8 years I've owned it. I want to keep that streak going!



dimitri said:


> That 4 wire splice looks like a factory splice to me. They are generally good. I would leave it alone.


I'll leave it. Just will put the power source from the starter as I mentioned. I believe if a person is going fix something, it should be done the right way the first time.

Which leads me to another ?. Where is the proper place to attach the ground from the alt? Currently, it's attached to the fender just below the lip for the hood. Looks tacky. Wire is just hanging out in the open. Another area where the previous owner didn't take the time to do it right. Trying to get these scattered wires where they belong.....

Still on the fence whether I'm going to convert to a single wire alt. I do like the idea of less wire. Less wire/parts means less things to go wrong. Need to get a replacement alt this week.

Thanks,
68'


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## 68greengoat (Sep 15, 2005)

Just picked up a single wire alt at O'reillys. I believe he said it's a 63amp. Doesn't say on the case. $45 Lifetime warranty.
Ultima 01-0039 - Alternator | O'Reilly Auto Parts

For $45, it works for me.

Trying to clean up the wiring. Just don't like the ground wire going across to the inside of the outer fender. I'm thinking there is a common grounding point no matter what year GTO with maybe slight variations. Where is that spot, roughly? 

Thanks, 68'


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## jetstang (Nov 5, 2008)

You can route the ground and hot back to the battery, just run them inside the fender and sneak them back to the battery for a clean installation. Happy to see you went the one wire route.


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## 68greengoat (Sep 15, 2005)

Well, we're not charging. Not real thrilled with the 1 wire route. Not sure what they count as "1" wire......... Here's a couple of pix. On the side, there are 2 input posts. I have nothing connected there. I'm thinking I need to run the ignition wire that went to the old regulator there and possibly a jumper from the output on the back?????? If not, what do I need to do? I did find out I have a very good battery. Put many miles on yesterday and today and it only dropped to the high side of 11 volts.

Thanks,
68'


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## jetstang (Nov 5, 2008)

Looks right. I had one go bad, and got it replaced fo free.. It has a phone number on there, call it and ask them. The one hot goes straight to the battery as you have it hooked up I assume. Ground is a nice touch, but not required. You did it right. If you are watching your factory gauge it shouldn't work. My battery charger shows if the alt is putting out, or use a multimeter to the battery. See if the voltage rises when you start the car, if it does, it's working. But you said it went to 11 volts, so something is working, hmm.. :confused
That's the same reason I like stock HEI's and don't use MSD boxes, there voodoo stuff that I don't understand.. The regulator is self exciting, so when it spins, it works. But, it's so easy, it works or it doesn't. If it's bad, just get a new one under warranty. The new volt gauges sense voltage off any hot wire in the car, so you just tap off of a dash light or something like that and it will tell you if it is charging.
Nothing goes to the other 2 terminals. Check the voltage at the post on the back of the alternator, maybe it's your wire or connections.


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## 68greengoat (Sep 15, 2005)

When I put my meter on the back of the alt, it's reading the battery volts when running. Never saw it over 12.4. My old one was reading 14.4. Jet, does your alt have the extra connections like I have in the 2nd pic?

Couple of times yesterday I didn't think I was going to be able to start it. Battery was down. Happened to drive by a mechanics shop and charged the battery for awhile and it started fine. He wasn't a whole lot of help. He thought I needed a wire to go to the other terminals, But, if it's self exciting, I shouldn't need too? Is it possible it's not self exciting?

I was expecting an easy transition like when I put my Pertronix unit in, not happening. At least not yet........

ps. I haven't called that number yet because I'm expecting Habib in Saudi Arabia!!!!!!!!


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## Rukee (Feb 8, 2007)

I just put one on a 1963 Studebaker and a 1947 ford truck that has a `69 mustang motor, NAPA part # 213-4011sw, $44.02. The hole with the two plug in's is blocked off with a rubber plug. Works great.


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## jetstang (Nov 5, 2008)

They still have the extra connector, you just don't use it. I thought the same thing when mine went bad, then gave up on troubleshooting, took it back, and they gave me a new one, it works.. Your's is broke. Sorry for being too technical..


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## 68greengoat (Sep 15, 2005)

Try not to be so technical next time ! :lol: I'll yank it out and bring it back when I get a chance. O'Reillys is 25 miles away, in the closest town. I'm sure they'll test it. I'm going to have them test a new one b/4 I walk out the door. If that happens to be bad, I'll just get a refund and shop elsewhere.

Thanks gentlemen....


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## Eric Animal (Oct 28, 2007)

Notice the sticker above the "plug in question".........


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## 68greengoat (Sep 15, 2005)

Saw that right away! They use old GM cases and rebuild them in Mexico. Problem #1.

I find it little curious they also have a sticker to call if a person has charging issues. It's almost like they expect an issue. Or, it has to be hooked up differently than all the rest. I'll probably call and talk to Habib just to see what they say before I return it.


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## likethat (Oct 5, 2007)

Help me here. All the conversion I have done needs the 2 wire pig tail off the internal regulator. One wire goes to the back of the alternator battery connection. Where he has the red wire and the other is for the charging light in the dash. Brown wire I believe.

Am I missing some thing. Have they connected the regulator on the inside? So you don't have to jump it to the outside to get it to charge?


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## Rukee (Feb 8, 2007)

The 1 wire alternators have a built in regulator and are self exiting when the motor turns over, and shuts down when the motor stops spinning. Hope that answers your question.


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## 68greengoat (Sep 15, 2005)

likethat said:


> Help me here. All the conversion I have done needs the 2 wire pig tail off the internal regulator. One wire goes to the back of the alternator battery connection. Where he has the red wire and the other is for the charging light in the dash. Brown wire I believe.
> 
> Am I missing some thing. Have they connected the regulator on the inside? So you don't have to jump it to the outside to get it to charge?


That's because it's a 3 wire internally regulated alt instead of a 1 wire like Ruk mentioned.. 

Glad you asked me how I know. That's been my whole problem. The alt I was sold wasn't a 1 wire even tho I asked for it. I called Habib, who turned out not to be Habib, gave him the part# and he told me it wasn't a 1 wire. Not too happy. Returned it and got my money back. He tested it, the kid that sold it to me in the first place, and it tested fine. Went to a different store and bought another one. This one has the 2 terminals on the side which are plugged. This one should work, hopefully.......................


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## 68greengoat (Sep 15, 2005)

Yippee! We're charging now. What a fiasco.


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## jetstang (Nov 5, 2008)

WOO HOO!!
You did take the high road, low road was quicker, but now you are a master and can expain the dif..
It really was that easy, now, it works or it don't..
No more whinning out of you mister..


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## 68greengoat (Sep 15, 2005)

Ya, I'm a happy camper. Would have been nice if the "kid" behind the counter would have gave me the proper alt in the first place. You'll also be happy to know, I didn't reconnect the ground.... So it's truely just a 1 wire setup... :cheers
Put some miles on it today. Drove around the area and towns looking at the damage from some dandy storms we got last nite. Lots of downed trees. We got lucky, no damage. Neighbor had trees down. Helped him out.


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## jetstang (Nov 5, 2008)

Cant beat a one wire, clean install.
Sorry for the storm, hope all is good.


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## Eric Animal (Oct 28, 2007)

:agree Nice job...be careful of falling trees  Eric


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