# 71 gto trying to fire up after long time in field



## camarocasanova (Sep 18, 2008)

So I am trying to get her to come back to life. New battery installed. New ignition keyset. She will not even turn over. It only "clicks" a relay that is on the firewall. (Does anyone know what this does?) Someone also installed an aftermarket remote starter solenoid on it too. I was thinking get a new starter, remove that aftermarket solenoid, and put the wires back where they belong underneath as a beginning on trying to get this figured out.


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## ChromeCoach10 (Oct 26, 2008)

New plugs, new points, new wires, fresh gas, some spray ether? 

You gotta get it running... there aren't many 71's to be had.


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## Rukee (Feb 8, 2007)

camarocasanova said:


> So I am trying to get her to come back to life. New battery installed. New ignition keyset. She will not even turn over. It only "clicks" a relay that is on the firewall. (Does anyone know that this does?) Someone also installed an aftermarket remote starter solenoid on it too. I was thinking get a new starter, remove that aftermarket solenoid, and put the wires back where they belong underneath as a beginning on trying to get this figured out.


Yes, remove everything extra that was put on. If the starter still doesn't work, check the wires with a test light to be sure you have battery voltage at the main battery wire and that you have 12v+ at the smaller purple wire when the key is in the 'start' position.


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## Jim (Oct 30, 2008)

Well, Like everyone I have an opinion and it's probably not worth much but you get to hear it anyway....Firstly, I would put some tranny fluid down the cylinders first and let it sit for a day. I would also tuen it over by hand first to make sure the engine is loose. If it is and you think the starter is bad pull it and bench test it.

I have had them where they were froze up and until you broke them loose the starter is not going to do it.

Like I said, for what it's worth.


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## teamwoody72 (May 23, 2008)

I agree with Jim. Depending on how long it sat, verify it will turn over by hand. I bought a charger when I was 18 that sat 10 years and did the same thing. I pulled the plugs and sprayed wd-40 down the cylinders and let it sit a day and then turned over by hand..


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## camarocasanova (Sep 18, 2008)

ok, changed oil out looks good. Motor does turn over by hand. Also figured out my matching numbers motor has a matching numbers transmission. :cheers I plan on squirting down the cylinders with wd like you guys have suggested when I change the plugs out and let her sit for a day. Anyhow, I replaced the starter, but left it out remote to see what is going on. Large main battery wire shows 12v, BUT purple wire is not getting any voltage with the key on or turned. I followed it all the way back to the firewall since someone has hacked the harness a bit, but still no voltage. So I am assuming the problem is somewhere from the firewall into the steering column. I have a schematic, but it is a little hard for me to read. Maybe ignition switch or neutral safety switch??? I now look to you my new friends for some more help


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## Rukee (Feb 8, 2007)

You're on the right track. Check the neutral safety switch for voltage going in and out when in the start position with the key. If you have voltage coming in but non going out, then you can cross those two wires to 'by-pass' the neutral safety switch until you can get it replaced. If you have no voltage going to the neutral safety switch, then go to the key switch and look for voltage coming out of there in the start position.


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## camarocasanova (Sep 18, 2008)

Where is the nss located? I have a console shifter in mine. I am going to remove the steering wheel, and go through the steering column. The other weird thing is when I shift my console shifter, the column moves as if it was once a column shift. But the PHS documents on the car show it as a console shift car. Is that just how they are made?


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## Rukee (Feb 8, 2007)

That's for the steering wheel lock mechanism. It's normal.
I think the neutral safety switch should be on or near the shifter in the console, or on the base of the steering column.


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## Jim (Oct 30, 2008)

If you don't get the wiring figured out and your ready to just try to get it running, you can wire a jumper across the solenoid. I would add some long leads and you can do it from the engine compartment. That's not of course the long term fix but it get's you where you can get it started. If you do this however make sure it's in park or neutral.

Ask me how I know !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


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## auburnconsulting (Nov 3, 2008)

the neutral safety should be at the base of the colum as said eairlier. it should be a white plastic half moon peice. on top of the column. the purple starter wire gets made here in the switch. make sure your ignition switch is good also. it is connected by a rod from the key switch . it is on top of the column. you will have to drop the column to see it. also this is where the reverse light connection gets made. after you engage the keyed ignition switch you can jump it to remove the opereation of the switch. if the relay on the firewall is clicking you may have resistor wires built in the harness. most of the time they are normally by the altenator and battery. i have seen some inline to the starter. over time the resto wires go bad or melt. see if your wires are deformed. i had a 71 t 37 doing the same as you describe. the relay on the firewall was bad. ours had a little rubber peice sticking up out of it. we pulled the rubber peice further up and drove home. replacedthe relay the next day and alll was good.


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## camarocasanova (Sep 18, 2008)

I figured it out...after tearing the column down lol. It is the neutral safety switch. Shorting it allows the starter to work...BUT....I put some gas/starting fluid down the carb after changing the oil and putting some wd40 down the cylinders, and installing new plugs, and....I think the motor is knocking. I am not entirely sure yet because I cannot keep it running long enough to evaluate the clacking sound I am hearing. I hope it is not a knock, just something rubbing but I fear the worst. It might explain why the car was parked suddenly and thus sent to a field. I need to blow out the fuel lines, I may just put a line into a fuel can under the front for now just so I can find out what is going on. :confused


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## Too Many Projects (Nov 15, 2008)

camarocasanova said:


> I figured it out...after tearing the column down lol. It is the neutral safety switch. Shorting it allows the starter to work...BUT....I put some gas/starting fluid down the carb after changing the oil and putting some wd40 down the cylinders, and installing new plugs, and....I think the motor is knocking. I am not entirely sure yet because I cannot keep it running long enough to evaluate the clacking sound I am hearing. I hope it is not a knock, just something rubbing but I fear the worst. It might explain why the car was parked suddenly and thus sent to a field. I need to blow out the fuel lines, I may just put a line into a fuel can under the front for now just so I can find out what is going on. :confused


It's going to take some time to get oil back up to the lifters and rockers. Pull the coil wire and crank it for a while to get oil pressure before you run it again. I would pull a valve cover to see when the oil is getting to the rockers. Clean gas in a can is a good idea for now. Have a gasoline rated fire extinguisher handy. The carb may leak like a sieve from drying out.


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## auburnconsulting (Nov 3, 2008)

yes make sure to prime the engine oil pressure. we did basicaly the same as you, fought little things to get it running. ours made noise also and ran rough. the kid who had it put all of the plug wires on the passanger side in the wrong order. make sure your wires are routed correctly. we rerouted and no more noise and runs great. i


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## Tri-Power (Jan 10, 2008)

definitely pull both valve covers and inspect all the visible valve train, also as previously stated, make sure to prime the oil pump either through the distributor or by eliminating ignition and cranking over. Is the oil pressure gauge working? What are your eventual plans for the car?


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## camarocasanova (Sep 18, 2008)

I believe after tonight's events the car is indeed knocking on the bottom end. I took a valve cover off and turned it over until it was nice and oiled up. And as I was trying to get it to run for a second the fuel pump got gas to the carb-and it kept running. Pretty amazing it runs on 3 year old gas. But at least I know the fuel system is ok. Anyhow, it taps at idle and knocks harder under more rpm. Damn. It seems it was parked for a reason. I have to decide now what to do with her. I have too many projects so I don't know how I feel about pulling the motor and such. I have started buying stuff she needs and even located a semi correct california carb for it I was thinking about buying. Does anyone know what it is worth ballpark? It shows 87k, has minor rust issues on the hood and a dent on the trunk lid, but the interior isn't in too bad of shape. All glass is there, clear title, I have the PHS documentation on it original calif GTO. Matching #s motor and trans, intake, manifolds but wrong carb.
I think I spent too much on it.
Here is the pic I have cleaned it up a bit but it is in need of full restoration








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## Rukee (Feb 8, 2007)

I'd love to get a project like that, how much do you have in it??


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## camarocasanova (Sep 18, 2008)

I have about $6500 in it with buying it, purchasing a correct air cleaner, and some misc. correct parts for the engine, as well as registering it and paying to title it in my name. Ouch.


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## Too Many Projects (Nov 15, 2008)

camarocasanova said:


> I have about $6500 in it with buying it, purchasing a correct air cleaner, and some misc. correct parts for the engine, as well as registering it and paying to title it in my name. Ouch.


These "project" cars get out of hand in a hurry......


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## camarocasanova (Sep 18, 2008)

Played with it again some more, the knock is gone except the engine is now noisy when you give it 30-50% throttle. I would call it a knock under more rpm's still but it does idle nicely. Interesting. I am going to finish up some other stuff and attempt to put it down the block a bit and see what it does.


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## jetstang (Nov 5, 2008)

Well, as long as the floor pan and trunk are solid and you don't need that much body work, it still sounds like you are OK in the money. Project cars are expensive, and depending on what you are trying to do with the car will determine how much you spend. $2K will rebuild the engine.
The ford solenoid on the firewall or fenderwell is used due to heat soak on the starter mounted solenoid and is not a bad thing, just not original.
Good luck on your build.


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## Too Many Projects (Nov 15, 2008)

camarocasanova said:


> Played with it again some more, the knock is gone except the engine is now noisy when you give it 30-50% throttle. I would call it a knock under more rpm's still but it does idle nicely. Interesting. I am going to finish up some other stuff and attempt to put it down the block a bit and see what it does.


It may be a piston knock from the rings being stuck in place for so long. I don't recommend giving it that much throttle or driving it for a while yet. Run it in the driveway and let it come up to full temp a few times to loosen things up inside. If the rings are stuck and you rev it up or put it under load from driving the pistons or rings could break and then you risk punching the rod thru the block and destroying it. Take your time and let that old iron get break-in again.


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## camarocasanova (Sep 18, 2008)

I let it run through a full heat cycle last night at idle. I will keep doing it each day for a few days as I am working on it. Besides, I want to run as much of that old gas out of it as I can. I think I will do a trans service on it too. The car has perfect floor pans and trunk, no rust under the back window and the vinyl top or in the wheel wells. The only rust on it is some light surface rust and at the edge of the front of the hood where it actually went through, but is very fixable. The only dent that is large enough to notice is on the trunk decklid. So good news there. It is a lifetime from birth to now california car so that is helpful. Everything is there for the most part which is real nice as well.


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## Too Many Projects (Nov 15, 2008)

The fact that you are running the old "gas" out doesn't help. It's probably more like running turpentine thru the carb and may be contributing to the knock....:lol:
Stick a siphon hose in the tank and get that crud out of there...

Sounds like you have a very solid project car there.......:cheers


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## camarocasanova (Sep 18, 2008)

Too Many Projects said:


> The fact that you are running the old "gas" out doesn't help. It's probably more like running turpentine thru the carb and may be contributing to the knock....:lol:
> Stick a siphon hose in the tank and get that crud out of there...
> 
> Sounds like you have a very solid project car there.......:cheers


You are entirely right--as I have gotten better gas in it, the knock is gone, even under a load...I think the 400 is OK!!arty:


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## Too Many Projects (Nov 15, 2008)

camarocasanova said:


> You are entirely right--as I have gotten better gas in it, the knock is gone, even under a load...I think the 400 is OK!!arty:


Good for you....you took a leap down a dark hole and came out OK. Hope it all goes well on the resto....:cheers


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