# 1970 Trunk getting water in it.



## GTO1970 (May 21, 2013)

I have this 1970 GTO that is getting water in the trunk. As of right now it is sitting outside with a cover on it  but water still gets into the trunk occasionally.

The car needs a resto but still in real good shape as it sits and don't want to get it worse.

I don't have the money for a resto but want to get the trunk leak fixed.

The deck lid seal looks newer it is not ripped anywhere but there is a 1 1/2-2" gap at the bottom center. Not sure if that is normal or if it shrunk. The seal is not glued down. When the lid is closed I can push down 1/4" or so where the latch is at.

My guess is the latch needs to be adjusted (for a quick fix). Right now I am not concerned about the fitment and or gaps as long as I can keep the water out. Right now the fitment and gaps are pretty good.

Does it sound like I just need to adjust the latch on the deck lid or a new seal?

Thanks


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## ALKYGTO (Mar 29, 2010)

I would think the seal needs to be glued in to be truly effective. 

Try using 3M weatherstrip adhesive to seal in your existing gasket and see if that works, that is the cheapest way to go.


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## Rukee (Feb 8, 2007)

It could be coming from the back window area too. Might want to slowly pour a glass of water into the lower corners of the back window and look in the trunk for leaking. Or stuff someone in the trunk with a flashlight and then hit the back of the car with the garden hose.


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## gjones (Oct 8, 2012)

*Don't break the key off in the latch...*

I agree with Rukee about getting into the trunk to check it out. That's about the best way to do it.


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## Red1970GTO (Jun 25, 2011)

*A Body Trunk Fitment*

:cool The fitment of the trunk lids on GM "A-Bodies" is notoriously *BAD*! Your weatherstrip doesn't need to be glued in -- it is designed to "float" in the channel and does its job when "squished" between the channel and the trunk lid. However, that's not to say the weatherstrip is good -- it may be hard and no longer pliable.

*First *thing you should do is to check the lower rear windshield corners for holes as stated above. *Then *you should carefully remove the trunk weatherstrip (note how it's installed) and check the channel for holes -- rust or just poor bodywork (especially at the upper corners where the quarters meet the trunk filler panel. This is a likely spot for leaks). *Plug *those holes as necessary. *Then *inspect the weatherstrip for cuts, rips, etc. and reinstall it/replace it (glue it if you want. The glue should go on the side of the channel -- NOT the bottom, so you get some movement of the weatherstrip and the "squish" effect). *Finally*, adjust the trunk latch so you get a nice tight fit.

*NOTE*: I had to move my trunk lid towards the rear windshield almost a 1/8 inch to get a good fit.


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## BearGFR (Aug 25, 2008)

:agree Add my vote to the "rear window" camp. There was no way for water in the corners of the back glass to drain out so they were notorious for rusting through there. That's what my 69 did.

Bear


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## D18-GTO (Apr 11, 2012)

My 1970 rusted out in the lower (both) corners of the rear window. The water cannot drain away in this lower recess the glass sits in. Any water getting in here will sit and attack the metal, with the corners being the most likely spot to developing rusted pin-holes that only get larger with time. I have had the same 1970 GTO since 1974 and I'm very familiar with this design flaw by Pontiac.

In the early 80's I had my car painted and the body shop "fixed" these on my GTO and by sealing the stainless trim to the glass and to the body panel with silicone. They told me this would fix the problem. It possibly did for the remainder of that summer, but it wore off, and/or separated away from the glass beginning the rust attack again. I was young and believed he knew his shit. Wrong!

When I did a full body off resto in 1996, the corners under the trim were shot and the water flows from there down and gets into the rear wheel wells and rockers. Now if I ever get caught in the rain, I chamois the car dry, get out the air hose and blow all the water out of there...if no compressor is available I will blow it out manually (picture big bad wolf trying to blow down piggies house)...which may make you look crazy but it works.


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## D18-GTO (Apr 11, 2012)

D18-GTO said:


> My 1970 rusted out in the lower (both) corners of the rear window. The water cannot drain away in this lower recess the glass sits in. Any water getting in here will sit and attack the metal, with the corners being the most likely spot to developing rusted pin-holes that only get larger with time. I have had the same 1970 GTO since 1974 and I'm very familiar with this design flaw by Pontiac.
> 
> In the early 80's I had my car painted and the body shop "fixed" these on my GTO and by sealing the stainless trim to the glass and to the body panel with silicone. They told me this would fix the problem. It possibly did for the remainder of that summer, but it wore off, and/or separated away from the glass beginning the rust attack again. I was young and believed he knew his shit. Wrong!
> 
> When I did a full body off resto in 1996, the corners under the trim were shot and the water flows from there down and gets into the rear wheel wells and rockers. Now if I ever get caught in the rain, I chamois the car dry, get out the air hose and blow all the water out of there...if no compressor is available I will blow it out manually (picture big bad wolf trying to blow down piggies house)...which may make you look crazy but it works.


OMG, reading this made me think I wrote it. Bought my 70 in Apr 74 (with 26,000 miles) and had the same rusted corners/rockers/quarters by the late 70's. In the early 80's a bodyshop siliconed the rear reveal moldings...me young & naive believing him. I did a full body off restoration from 1996 to 2001. Now if my goat gets rained on (rare) I get out the chamois & compressor, or blow it like the big bad wolf. Have 155,000 miles now and corners are dry & solid! 😂


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