# audio questions answered.



## dude515 (Mar 30, 2011)

ok so i just finished my 04 sound system. i see a lot of questions about wiring, trim, speakers etc.... so i figured i would help out. 

ill start off with locations and sizes. all speakers are 6.5 rounds. 2 midbass drivers in the rear deck 2, 2 ways in the sides, and 2 6.5/ tweeter component sets in the front. 6.5's in the doors and tweets under the defrost vent trim on the dash. and all the speakers in the car are complete paper garbage, save for the ones in the rear deck. you have your stock amp in the back behind the carpet on the driver side along with the wiring harness. no there are no rca outs on the stock deck. i kept the stock head with my project simply because i love to have a 6 cd changer and didnt want to fuss with adding an aftermarket one or a 500$+ head unit. now, starting with the speakers. you might as well do it all at once because of the amount of crap that has to come off just to access them. start with the rears, the reat seats need to come out first. on the bottom on both sides are plastic pull things which will release the bottom section. then 2, 1\2" bolts on either side and a pull straight up will release the upper half. unscrew the trunk release and start popping the clips on the rear deck. make sure to undo the wires to the third brake light, and with a little bit of persuasion the deck will lift off. the midbass drivers i put in only needed the little metal spacers to make them fit and went in like a champ. on the sides in the rear there are 2 star headed screws at the top and one on the bottom behind the kickplate trim and that whole panel will pop off giving you access to those speakers. i used quantum fx 6.5 2 ways that went straight in no problem. just be sure to look at every mounting hole available on the speaker. o and you will need a very small socket (i forget the size) to get those off. on the doors, you will need a very small flathead. take in and pull out the plug behind the door handle and unscrew. then at the lock thing, the little red oval piece. pry that red piece out and it will release the top. unscrew behind. then just a few screws around the edges of the door panel. carefully work off the triangle vent at the top and undo the hookups to the light at the bottom and lift straight up. this will give you acces to the biggest piece of crap in the whole car. there is a plastic mount that the speaker is mounted on. i had to do some cutting on that just to make the magnet fit through but if your rear side speakers went in fine then they will mount straight up the same way. and if not its plastic so no worries. i left the tweets alone simply because i was destroying screwdrivers trying to get them unscrewed. so now that all the speakers are replaced leave the car apart and we'll talk wiring. blue\orange blue\ black, yellow\ green brown\ black. those are the full signal inputs for the speakers to the stock amp. all the other ones are power ground and the bass only signal to the rear deck speakers. i splice into the signal wires and used a line out converter to provide the rca inputs to my amp. when you run your amp power wire back the easiest way is to get it through the fire wall, and then take off the kickplate trim by popping up the long oval piece which will give you access to 4 star headed screws. you also have to remove the seatbelt bolt. which is big. after that is off remove the little triangular piece under the dash right in front of the kickplate trim. there is one screw that will stare you in the face and one on the side set in about an inch and a half. since all your seats and trim panels are already removed running the wire to the trunk is a cinch. there are amazingly convenient holes on either side of the gas tank that will allow you to run wires to the trunk wit no effort at all. and it is through those holes, and under the kickplate trim that all your speaker wires should run too. as for the accessory wire to the amp. if your using an aftermarket head then that shouldnt be a problem. just follow the sticky on removing the head unit. if you want to use the stock head you will also need to follow the sticky. once you get to the wiring harness, there will be a solid yellow wire, that is the accessory wire for your head unit. backstabbing yours into the connector is the least difficult way. and since your center stack is already disassembled running that back in no problem. except for the carpet. that sucks. as for the amp ground. on the back of your tail light on either side there is a bolt that will work for grounding i tried almost everything else in that trunk space and thats the esiest one to get to. well that should cover everything. ill check back later for any more questions.

p.s. for some reason even before i did all this none of my interior lights worked except for the ones on the dash. anyone have any ideas?


----------



## dude515 (Mar 30, 2011)

also, and im sorry because i know this is long and dry. on the note of impedance matching. all of the speakers in the car are 2 ohm impedance. just because blaupunkt did that doesnt mean you should too. 2 ohm impedance spells death for all but the most top notch amps. so when your trying to figure out how to wire 6 to 8 speakers off of 1 four channel amp be sure to wire speakers in series, that is amp out pos to first speaker pos. first speaker neg to second speaker pos. and second speaker neg to amp out neg. this can easily be done at the amp. doing so will give you 8 ohm impedance (assuming you are using 2, 4 ohm speakers) if you just stick both wires into the same amp output the speakers will be wired in parallel giving you 2 ohm impedance. (again assuming....) having 8 ohm impedance means that your amp will only have to work half as hard to push the same load. the follow the pie and you will see that twice as much impedance meanse that you amp only pushes half the current. but the same power. thus reducing heat and increasing the longevity of your equipent. btw found the faulty light fuse and replaced it. under the steering wheel... horrible place for a fuse panel.


----------



## DABIGBYRDMAN (May 27, 2011)

Higher impedance means less power.


----------



## HP11 (Apr 11, 2009)

Yeah, I read that back when this was originally posted but chose not to comment, but since you mentioned it, I'll chime in also. You have to stay within a certain range when it comes to impedance matching. For example, an amplifier with an 8 ohm output impedance will put the most power into an 8 ohm speaker. Too low a speaker impedance will cause the amplifier's output current to increase, and the voltage to drop, resulting in less power output to the speaker, and more heat dissipated in the amplifier. Too high a speaker impedance will lower the output current, also reducing power output. In either case the speakers would not put out the 'same power' as stated in post #2. I've done more systems than I can recall in my lifetime, both automotive an musical instrument based, and impedance matching is important.


----------



## DABIGBYRDMAN (May 27, 2011)

Werd.


----------



## Mddrummer911 (Jul 9, 2011)

Great write up! I grounded my amp to one of the fuel tank brace bolt. It's a huge bolt that threads directly into the frame/body of the car so you know it will provide good ground. As to that the fuel cell dividing the trunk from the car may make for easy pump access but makes a trunk mounted sub sound like crap. I have a kicker 12 solobaric L7 in a ported box rubbing off a 750 kicker amp that made my head hurt in my last car. However in the trunk of the goat all it does is rattle the hell out of the trunk lid. Not much makes it into the car. Gonna try putting 8 inchers in the rear deck...


----------



## HP11 (Apr 11, 2009)

Mddrummer911 said:


> Great write up!


Except for the part about speaker impedance....actually the whole thing is somewhat ancedotal.


----------



## Mddrummer911 (Jul 9, 2011)

Lol yea anyone with any general knowledge would have blown that off... Lol 8 ohms yea less heat bc half the power. But was helpful for finding all the screws and stuff for disassemble/install.


----------

