# overheating problems --1966 389 tri power



## khinton (Jun 22, 2008)

I know a lot has been written about this subject--pully size,timing, divider plate clearance etc.--just wondereing if any one has used the FlowKooler water pump. the specs sound great--but do they work better?? --Do you use the same divider plates?


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## BearGFR (Aug 25, 2008)

If you're having cooling problems now, I'll make you a bet: pull the pump, set the plate clearance correctly, reinstall. (You'll need to get some new gaskets for the plate and pump, probably).
Let me know how much better it is after you do that 

Bear


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## khinton (Jun 22, 2008)

I have pulled the pump--There is only one gasket--closed the tolerances--temp still creeps up some--but what about the FlowKooler--A guy from Ames told me they sell more FlowKoolers than the others, but could not tell me if they work better or not --he just quoted me the written stats. So now I don't know much more than before--He thought you would use the same SS divider plates but was not sure-they seem to have the own plate welded in--so I'm asking here for FlowKooler experience from users of that pump.--help please.


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## harlan41 (Aug 19, 2012)

FlowKooler helped my gto , but my main problem was that my distributor vaccum advance wasn't working, it had a bad diaphram, and was sucking air. Hope this helps.


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## Chris-Austria (Dec 23, 2010)

I also use a FlowKooler... I tried it because of high engine temps (no overheating) and the temp was going down about 5-10° with only the new pump and no other changes. I think a standard pump will do the job as well, if your engine overheats this isn't the solution for your problem! (I didn't change pully size)

After all a good fan was the thing that really dropped my engine temps.
If your car is overheating in slow traffic and the temps go down on highway speeds a good cooling fan might do the trick


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## olde-goat (Feb 1, 2009)

I have been reading all the various posts on cooling/overheating issues over the past while and find all the information very interesting. I recall Bear that you responded back to me on 'fine tuning' the pump divider plates. I have not been able to implement some of the suggestions but will do this winter. I have a newly rebuilt engine but as yet still not had the opportunity to start it. I have a question on what role the fan clutch has in regards to this issue and how can you tell if the clutch is working properly. Is there any manual way that you can check it? I have to assume if the clutch is not 'holding' properly the fan has to be held back in it's efforts.

PS. I have to add that my engine is a '65 389 tripower with newly rebuilt 4 core Harrison rad, bent tip OEM fan and clutch.


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## Instg8ter (Sep 28, 2010)

proper divider clearance, good clutch fan centered in shroud front to back, 180 thermostat with 3/32 hole drilled in plate to bleed air out, 3 row aluminum radiator ....never pushes over 185 even over an hour in backed up traffic at the DreamCruise


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## Chris-Austria (Dec 23, 2010)

Before the "good cooling fan" I had the temps rising up to 230° in slow traffic (no problems at highway speeds). 
After the "good cooling fan" I have to switch it off after 1-2 minutes in slow traffic because temps are going down to 160° (I have a 160° thermostat). Glad the fan switches on and off by a sensor.
The point is.. the fan made the biggest difference I can imagine! From nearly overheating to running to cold.


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## BearGFR (Aug 25, 2008)

olde-goat said:


> I have a question on what role the fan clutch has in regards to this issue and how can you tell if the clutch is working properly. Is there any manual way that you can check it?


There's not a definitive test that I know of, not without some sort of tool that can measure fan rpm. Generally when they fail (that is, without coming completely apart and letting the fan "airplane" into the radiator), either the fan is going to freewheel and not turn fast enough, or they're going to lock up completely and run the fan too fast. A fan has an rpm range where it is the most efficient, any slower or faster and it doesn't move air very well. The job of the fan clutch is to keep the fan rpm in this sweet spot where it does the best job of moving air.

Bear


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## Rukee (Feb 8, 2007)

You should not be able to wiggle the fan and be able to turn the fan slowly by hand, try to spin it fast and it should tighten up. Also it should pull more air when the engine is hot rather then cold.


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