# Just Joined, 'Cause I Just Bought (a 66 Tempest Custom...



## TK (66 Tempest 326) (Feb 19, 2021)

...with the 326 2BBL, 3-speed on the floor).

All indications are that it's all original, unrestored, except a repaint in the early '90s.

I'm quite happy with it. The odometer reads 70K miles and I'd bet it hasn't turned over.

Lots of questions, but I suppose a couple on the top of my mind are whether the 250 hp 326 will respond to a 4BBL carb and other basic mods. Cam, headers?

Also...Wikipedia says 3 trannies were available - the Powerglide, 3-speed manual on the column or a 4-speed on the floor. It came with the original window sticker, consistent with what it actually has...a 3-speed manual on the floor, which the seller told me has the Hurst shifter. The window sticker says "3 speed-floor-fully synchronized". Is Wiki wrong in stating that the 3-speed manual was on the tree (no mention of floor shifter)?


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## TK (66 Tempest 326) (Feb 19, 2021)




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## GTOTIGR (May 3, 2020)

Hi TK,

Nice car! Don’t see many Tempest’s nowadays! Looks very clean and original, exception being the front upholstery. 

In terms of the 3 speed manual that was standard on the floor. I may be mistaken but I don’t believe a manual column shift was offered. The 4 speed was optional, as was the automatic. 

Welcome and Enjoy!


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## Jetzster (Jan 18, 2020)

Welcome TK ! 😎nice one!


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## TK (66 Tempest 326) (Feb 19, 2021)

GTOTIGR said:


> Hi TK,
> 
> Nice car! Don’t see many Tempest’s nowadays! Looks very clean and original, exception being the front upholstery.
> 
> ...


Thanks GTOTIGR. Agreed...I temporarily forgot the Tempest was the base model (my friend had a '69 or '70 Tempest (6-cyl, no pwr steering) in the '80s, probably bought it for <$1K back then...fair price considering its condition), being I've seen so few of them throughout the years.

And right...I didn't find any indication fabric upholstery was OEM style (obviously replaced...looks like it was installed last week), but I suppose I don't mind it) during a browsing of classic parts vendors (OPGI and YearOne).

I've since done a search on this site re: modding the 326 2BBL. Some are saying one would see an improvement with a 4BBL, but that it's best realized with the higher compression heads of the HO 326. That hadn't occurred to me. I assumed the higher compression of the HO motor was attributable to a different crank or pistons.

Preliminary indication is that the motor is healthy. Doesn't smoke and pulls very well with the stock 333 lb/ft of torque. Just runs great. I'm in Colorado, and we just had a cold wave (-17 degrees according to my phone at 5 am last Monday) and was very impressed it started (with only a few initial crank-over attempts) in that brainium-freezing cold. Once it's warmed, it's running within milliseconds of starter engagement. Normally, I'm a big fan of HP modding, but in coming to see how much integrity it has in stock form, might keep it as is in appreciation of its overall original condition.

At the moment, the repairs needed list is only fixing a small exhaust leak between either the manifold & exhaust (or possibly exhaust manifold at the head), a bit whiny rear end (Saf-T-Track), no heat (vent fan works), and no window washer fluid. The rest of the electrical and exterior/interior lighting is working. And cig lighter doesn't appear to work.

The link here suggests it's a "2d coupe" based off the VIN. Since it's not a vinyl top, I would think it'd be a "2d hardtop". Are the 2d coupes vinyl tops? What's the difference, if not?

Also...the 3-speed on the floor is shown as an option on the sticker ($83.65 adder). Or maybe it's fully synchronized that made it cost more?

It still has the front drum brakes (non-pwr), but the brakes are in excellent condition...stops evenly and confidently with minimal effort (considering they're not power). So again...I'm growingly undecided as to whether to upgrade this, this or that (including swapping in an LS motor & 6-speed). I almost feel like I'd be the big a-hole at this point, being it's gone so many years in original form. It does have a newer dual exhaust in place, which I don't mind one bit. Did the 2BBL 326 have single or dual exhaust from the factory?

At the moment, while the ride is like butter, it's also boat-like. It's got Gabriel shocks with a wee smidge of rust on them, indicating they've been on for many years. So I'm planning on either 2" drop spindles or front coil springs. That should get the stance just the way I like it. Normally, I'd go with Bilsteins, but in spirit of the cruiser mobile that it is...maybe just KYBs. And surely wouldn't mind at least 7" wide rear rallies, otherwise matching the existing style.

The power steering is as power assisted as I've ever felt...could steer with my pinky finger if the ultra-skinny (and hard) steering wheel was moist (for a bit of grip).


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## TK (66 Tempest 326) (Feb 19, 2021)

Jetzster said:


> Welcome TK ! 😎nice one!


Thanks Jetzter...good to be here.


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## GTOJUNIOR (Aug 7, 2011)

NICE SCORE! That Bench seat shifter looks 100% OE to me. 
Here is a clip from the Accessory Booklet showing the trans options for the '66 models.


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## GTOJUNIOR (Aug 7, 2011)

Just for clarity, A 3-speed Column shift was Standard in '66.
I had a '66 Tempest convertible with a 3 on the tree as some call it.
Here is a clip from the Deluxe Dealer Brochure;


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## GTOJUNIOR (Aug 7, 2011)

Seldom ordered/seen '66 GTO with 3 on column;


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## deanhickey (Apr 6, 2015)

Sweet tempest, enjoy it.


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## GTOJUNIOR (Aug 7, 2011)

Just an FYI on the DECOR opt. Here is a breakdown of items included in this group;


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## armyadarkness (Dec 7, 2020)

My first Pontiac was a 66 Lemans. It was well optioned beyond my 67 GTO. Congrats!


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## TK (66 Tempest 326) (Feb 19, 2021)

GTOJUNIOR said:


> NICE SCORE! That Bench seat shifter looks 100% OE to me.
> Here is a clip from the Accessory Booklet showing the trans options for the '66 models.
> 
> View attachment 140757


Thanks for these options images...dig this stuff. I'm humbled, having just learned that Pontiac only had _medium _blocks. I've been a casual classic car enthusiast since I bought a '68 Chevelle SS at 23 y.o. (now 56). How I could go all these years just learning about the unique Pontiac blocks.

Fortunately, my mind is still an (hopefully non-smelly) ol' sponge. So it may be appropriate to call me Grasshopper in the Pontiac world.


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## TK (66 Tempest 326) (Feb 19, 2021)

GTOJUNIOR said:


> Just an FYI on the DECOR opt. Here is a breakdown of items included in this group;
> View attachment 140760


Does this generation of models have the RPO codes label somewhere on the vehicle? The window sticker says the decor group ("064" on the sticker for $35.55...must be the 23507-17 in this table) consists of "mouldings-decor" and "wheel discs-dlx". But is there somewhere that gives more detail on that? I couple of photos from what I believe to be the early '90s show it during the repaint and how it looked after. I'm thinking the wheel discs-dlx are the hubcaps? Interested to know the specifics on the mouldings. Maybe it once had the chrome strips running along the floor board?


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## TK (66 Tempest 326) (Feb 19, 2021)

Sigh...I see it actually has the floorboard moulding, along with the upper side trim. I also see the trim running along the middle of the sides is now gone (fine...not a huge fan of that trim). Here's one of the photos that came with the car (w/the what I'm guessing are the original "wheel discs-dlx".


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## TK (66 Tempest 326) (Feb 19, 2021)

GTOJUNIOR said:


> Seldom ordered/seen '66 GTO with 3 on column;
> 
> View attachment 140759


Craziness...but like that its rarity.

Back when I owned my '68 Chevelle SS, was jazzed to know (or believe, just because the seller said) it was 1 of 243 made with factory cruise control (never worked). I've owned six '86-'87 Turbo Regals (4 GNs & 2 TRs). My first had 13K miles...and virtually no options; including no power doors or locks.


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## GTOTIGR (May 3, 2020)

GTOJUNIOR said:


> Seldom ordered/seen '66 GTO with 3 on column;
> 
> View attachment 140759


Thanks GTOJUNIOR, I’ve never seen a Tempest/LeMans/GTO with a manual on the tree. Must be very rare.


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## GTOJUNIOR (Aug 7, 2011)

Great old photo of her. You are correct on the Deluxe Wheel Disc aka HUBCAPS.
I see the Deluxe steering wheel is still in place and looks good.
The Decor molding package was the brightwork around the window frames.
Most base model Tempest had painted metal trim/covers.
The rocker molding was standard on all models.

My Lemans had the deluxe wheel covers and steering wheel when I bought it in the '80s
I found an NOS set after the restoration and ran with them for a few more years but they just seem to scream old man on board


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## TK (66 Tempest 326) (Feb 19, 2021)

GTOJUNIOR said:


> Great old photo of her. You are correct on the Deluxe Wheel Disc aka HUBCAPS.
> I see the Deluxe steering wheel is still in place and looks good.
> The Decor molding package was the brightwork around the window frames.
> Most base model Tempest had painted metal trim/covers.
> ...


For hubcaps, they're pretty sweet. But that's what I thought when I saw the old photos of mine...grandpa (with a Hurst shifter).


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## GTOJUNIOR (Aug 7, 2011)

Yea I was always torn between keeping her true to AS-BUILT.
However, as the years passed I've changed her shoes many times over the years and found the Rally 1's to be the final choice!


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## integrity6987 (May 10, 2017)

Welcome - very nice car. Brings back memories of when I had a gold 67 LeMans 326-2bbl w/ Rally I's and 3speed manual on the floor w/ 60/40 split-bench with fold-down armrest.



TK (66 Tempest 326) said:


> The link here suggests it's a "2d coupe" based off the VIN. Since it's not a vinyl top, I would think it'd be a "2d hardtop". Are the 2d coupes vinyl tops? What's the difference, if not?


Coupes have frames around the door windows instead of hardtops having none.



TK (66 Tempest 326) said:


> o again...I'm growingly undecided as to whether to upgrade this, this or that (including swapping in an LS motor & 6-speed).


THE HORROR!


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## Jared (Apr 19, 2013)

Welcome to the forum. As I do whenever someone shows with a car that is not a GTO. I beg you to leave it as a Tempest and resist the urge to clone it into a GTO. The three on the floor is definitely a cool option to have. The 326 is a good motor and has potential. Be prepared though, Pontiac engines are a bit pricey compared to their Chevy cousins but they reward you with all that sweet low end torque.

(please, don't LS swap it)


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## GTOJUNIOR (Aug 7, 2011)

PMD's use of the term COUPE applied to both HT and SPORTS the model number is what is used to define which.


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## PontiacJim (Dec 29, 2012)

Don't even think about an LS. Enjoy what the car is and work with what you have.

The 3-speed trans is most likely the "Dearborn" Ford 3-speed that was adapted to fit the Pontiac. It is a fully synchronized 3-speed, cast iron case, heavy duty, and a "top loader" just like the desireable Ford top-loader 4-speeds. It is a nice smooth trans and never heard of one breaking, even behind a GTO 400 CI.

Pontiac only has 1 block size, from 1955 on up, NO small block or big block. Bore and stroke changes, as do the main bearing diameter. There is no "medium" block.

The HO 326 uses different heads. Pontiac's typically use a flat top piston. The compression is then adjusted by the size of the combustion chamber, or CC's of the chamber. The lower compression will have a larger combustion chamber.

Can you put a 4-Bbl on the 326? Sure, but you won't get a bunch of gain, just a slight amount. It will be an AFB, typically around 500 CFM's. So you would need matching intake used for 1965-1966, and some 1967's that used the AFB carb. It is a vacuum secondary carb, so it'll only use what it needs versus mechanical secondaries.

Can you improve the power of the 326? Of course. But you will also get many opinions and most will lean towards installing a 400CI, or a stroker kit in a 400CI to get 461-ish cubes, and then go from there. There are of course advantages to using a 400 as your base engine if you want to go that route. The 326 can be made "peppy" and fun, but won't have near the HP/TQ capabilities of the 400. So it boils down to what you want to get out of the car.


My personal opinion is to keep the 326 and put some old "goodies" and modern upgrades into it in an effort to keep it original and, be different from every other Tempest with a transplanted 400, or GTO cloned appearance. But I get it if you want to have a tire shredder and have the finances to put into the engine, trans, rear-end, cooling, and beef up the frame/suspension/brakes. HP/TQ has its costs, and with a Pontiac, not as inexpensive as a Chevy or Ford small block.

Many do the LS swap as they make kits/parts to install them, but they too will add up quick with all the items needed for the install. So it is an option, but you no longer have a Pontiac, you'll have a Chevelle and that kinda defeats the purpose of owning a Pontiac.

Plenty of info on this forum as well as guidance and help when/if you need it.


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## 1969GPSJ (Feb 26, 2020)

TK 
you just don't see original 55 year old cars like that running around everywhere,they are only original once 
I love the car just as it sits , nice find that original window sticker is well preserved


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## pontrc (Mar 18, 2020)

I agree it’s too much of a time capsule,l love the way it is 👍


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## TK (66 Tempest 326) (Feb 19, 2021)

GTOJUNIOR said:


> Yea I was always torn between keeping her true to AS-BUILT.
> However, as the years passed I've changed her shoes many times over the years and found the Rally 1's to be the final choice!


That's cool...to see the variety of wheels (on the same car). I do like the #3 photo's look, but agreed...Rallys just look so nice.

Are they 14x6s or 14x7s? The 6" width looks so skinny on my car, a subtle fattening to 7" seems acceptable, at least for the rears.

BTW...nice Sprint 6 Le Mans! And I like the stance too. Would I be correct to think you've lowered the front ~2" (via spindles or springs)? That's just how I want mine...slightly lower in front.


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## TK (66 Tempest 326) (Feb 19, 2021)

1969GPSJ said:


> TK
> you just don't see original 55 year old cars like that running around everywhere,they are only original once
> I love the car just as it sits , nice find that original window sticker is well preserved


I agree. I usually go straight to modding performance or classic cars, but specifically because this one has obviously been untouched for 5.5% of a millennium, other than a repaint (original color), Rally wheels and fabric reupholstering, I'm feeling like I'd be disrespecting it to go for a resto mod. I'm finding myself liking it for much more than originally (its condition). It's time capsule factor (as pontrc said)...is just too high. At the moment, the most I'm willing to do is a subtle stance enhancement (just looks so much better, I think) by lowering the front end 2" via lowering spindles. I'm not sure I can even change the drivetrain. I was thinking LS swap w/6-speed, leaving everything else as is, but at least for now, I'm digging its originality very much.

Yeah...I love that it came with the original window sticker. Needless to say, it's now in a sheet protector.


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## TK (66 Tempest 326) (Feb 19, 2021)

GTOJUNIOR said:


> PMD's use of the term COUPE applied to both HT and SPORTS the model number is what is used to define which.


Beautiful. And so, I've got a Tempest Custom Sports Coupe. And...I've got A) Freshly acquired knowledge that at least Pontiac (possibly other GM divisions?) made framed windows and non-framed windows of the same model within the same year (thought it was a model or era specific thing). B) The swirling question in me brainium as to why such variance existed.

Haven't tested the passenger side, but the driver's side window rolls up/down very easily. Though a different animal, the Turbo Regals I owned were frame-free, and had came with the irritating flaw of not sealing properly if attempting to roll up at highway speed. The window would get sucked out just enough to where it left a 1/4" gap at the forward/diagonal area, obviously resulting in lots of wind noise. I can see how the frames negate that possibility. Then again, my '68 Chevelle didn't have frames and don't remember any such issue.


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## TK (66 Tempest 326) (Feb 19, 2021)

1969GPSJ said:


> TK
> you just don't see original 55 year old cars like that running around everywhere,they are only original once
> I love the car just as it sits , nice find that original window sticker is well preserved


Agreed...it's original enough to have the (non-power) front drum brakes still in place. However...they're working surprisingly well (this might be the first vehicle I've owned that have front drums). They engage after what feels like less than an inch of pedal action. While I haven't attempted a full lock-up to see if all four lock, it's obvious there's plenty of stopping power.


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## TK (66 Tempest 326) (Feb 19, 2021)

pontrc said:


> I agree it’s too much of a time capsule,l love the way it is 👍


Well...I think I know how get disowned by the purests...modify anything, ha. I fear I might get ousted if I slapped in 2" drop spindles in front or installed 15x7 wheels. I joke. As I alluded earlier, while it was its overall excellent condition that initially attracted me most, now that I've got it, my appreciation for it being so close to original, unrestored condition is way up.

I'm uncertain as to whether it came with dual exhaust from the factory. It's got newer dual exhaust now (with what sounds like OE loudness mufflers; nice sound, but not loud by any means). Just have to fix a minor exhaust leak either at the manifold or mating at the manifold and pipe. Only just detectible, which means...unacceptable.


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## pontrc (Mar 18, 2020)

I understand TK, It’s your car do what you want. Like Jim said the LS thing takes away from what it is.I understand about the wheels, I would upgrade


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## GTOJUNIOR (Aug 7, 2011)

TK (66 Tempest 326) said:


> That's cool...to see the variety of wheels (on the same car). I do like the #3 photo's look, but agreed...Rallys just look so nice.
> 
> Are they 14x6s or 14x7s? The 6" width looks so skinny on my car, a subtle fattening to 7" seems acceptable, at least for the rears.
> 
> BTW...nice Sprint 6 Le Mans! And I like the stance too. Would I be correct to think you've lowered the front ~2" (via spindles or springs)? That's just how I want mine...slightly lower in front.


Thanks! This what happens when you one for so long, always looking to change it up a bit. The R1 rims are an aftermarket 14X7 with equal size tires on all corners.
As far as Curb height it is factory or extremely close, using all factory suspension. The rear is slightly higher by way of heavier springs, I never liked the dragging a$$ look with the factory rear height on the '66 & '67 A-Bodies.


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## TK (66 Tempest 326) (Feb 19, 2021)

pontrc said:


> I understand TK, It’s your car do what you want. Like Jim said the LS thing takes away from what it is.I understand about the wheels, I would upgrade


I've been to a lot of car shows and museums over the years, and always appreciated original condition cars, even unrestored and revealing imperfections. While I may not be the total purest yet, I admit you guys are reviving my appreciation for originality more.

Yep, an LS drivetrain would obviously wipe that out. Of course it would add my value for higher performance, but as I think about it more, I didn't really buy it to have another high HP vehicle. The high today should be over 40 degrees, which means I can wash off the 900 miles of highway towed dirt (it's been torturous looking at in the garage over the last 6 days) and change the oil. First thing I did when the seller started it was go the rear and check for smoking. None, though it definitely had a fairly strong exhaust odor (might be I've just forgotten it's typical of the era of catless, carbed V8s). Anyway, I'll be monitoring how long the oil stays clear. If it doesn't look like black ink after 500 miles, that's good enough for me to believe the motor has lots of life left. It's sure plenty torquey. Point being, I've taken the consideration of an LS swap off the table for now.

And since it's already got Rallye's (vs the original "discs-DLX" hubcaps), might as well just go with a bit wider to subtly sweeten the look. I'm not considering the grandpa look with finding/installing the original hubcaps (as in the old pics).


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## TK (66 Tempest 326) (Feb 19, 2021)

GTOJUNIOR said:


> Thanks! This what happens when you one for so long, always looking to change it up a bit. The R1 rims are an aftermarket 14X7 with equal size tires on all corners.
> As far as Curb height it is factory or extremely close, using all factory suspension. The rear is slightly higher by way of heavier springs, I never liked the dragging a$$ look with the factory rear height on the '66 & '67 A-Bodies.


May I ask why you chose to stick with 14" vs. 15" wheels? I see Summit has 15x7 Rallye I, which would require/allow for a 60-series tire. Is it just that you like the "possibly OE" look of the 14" wheel, 70-series tire combo?

When inspecting the shocks, I saw coil spring spacers (rubber block that sits between two coils) or stiffeners, which is probably a band aide for old, fatigued springs. It's ride is good, but very soft. Fatigued springs and old Gabriel shocks (a tiny bit of rust on them) are surely responsible for the boat-like ride. Fresh springs and KYBs are on the list.


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## pontrc (Mar 18, 2020)

Fortunately my 72 came with 14x7 rally II went with a 245 60 14


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## TK (66 Tempest 326) (Feb 19, 2021)

Fluids questions: Should I be adding a lead substitute to the gas? I used to when I had my Chevelle ('89-'99). And any special type of oil other than the proper viscosity (like high zinc content)? I'll also be changing the diff gear oil. I've got the original owner's manual in the glove, so I can refer to that, but it might be limited to the assumption of fluids available during the day. Yes, I know I need gear oil with LSD additive.


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## TK (66 Tempest 326) (Feb 19, 2021)

pontrc said:


> Fortunately my 72 came with 14x7 rally II went with a 245 60 14
> View attachment 140811


I like that...with BFGs (white lettering out...like that too).

Couldn't help but notice the whitewalls on those old pics. Negative on the whitewalls.


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## TK (66 Tempest 326) (Feb 19, 2021)

Might go with these guys (with the existing center caps...prefer the black):

Wheel Vintiques 59-4734044 Wheel Vintiques 59 Series Pontiac Rallye I Silver Powdercoated Wheels | Summit Racing


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## pontrc (Mar 18, 2020)

A lot of guys went with the station wagon springs on the rear for a good rake look


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## pontrc (Mar 18, 2020)

On the oil 10w30 or 40 conventional not synthetic with zinc


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## RMTZ67 (Mar 12, 2011)

I might have missed it but..what rear gears came on it? 3:55?


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## TK (66 Tempest 326) (Feb 19, 2021)

RMTZ67 said:


> I might have missed it but..what rear gears came on it?


Still need to determine that. Read that it'll either be stamped on the axle on the "flange" side, if memory serves, and/or on the ring gear. I just read the original owner's manual in the glove box (which also has a small comb and old style can opener in it) and it says SAE-80 or -90 (and add LSD lubricant; might find gear oil with it already added). I'll get under there and try to find some numbers. Or, just turn the wheel and count the rotations of the driveshaft.

I suspect it's a high gear...doesn't feel like rpms are _that _high at freeway speed.


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## GTOJUNIOR (Aug 7, 2011)

TK (66 Tempest 326) said:


> May I ask why you chose to stick with 14" vs. 15" wheels? I see Summit has 15x7 Rallye I, which would require/allow for a 60-series tire. Is it just that you like the "possibly OE" look of the 14" wheel, 70-series tire combo?
> 
> When inspecting the shocks, I saw coil spring spacers (rubber block that sits between two coils) or stiffeners, which is probably a band aide for old, fatigued springs. It's ride is good, but very soft. Fatigued springs and old Gabriel shocks (a tiny bit of rust on them) are surely responsible for the boat-like ride. Fresh springs and KYBs are on the list.


Rim size was only due to a friend offering a full set off his '65 at a price I couldn't refuse. 
They just needed some love and have been a major improvement along with other mild upgrades.

New springs and some KYB shocks will make you and your '66 very happy


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## PontiacJim (Dec 29, 2012)

Get the PHS documents for your car which will tell you all the specs and options.

The rear gear with a 3-speed seems to generally be 3.23's. Use the 80-90 gear oil and if adding to the rear if flushing/changing, add a can of additive for the posi. I use Lucas brand gear oil.

The engine is a lower compression and should run OK on pump gas. Would not worry too much about octane/lead additives. However, this additive has been suggested to my by a Pontiac engine builder/shop. It is a lubricant and octane booster - and can add a little extra octane. Not too expensive and you might only want to use it every other fill up, or so. You can use it every fill up, of course.

Pontiac engines are known for torque and built for torque over HP. The 326 has a small bore, so it is not favorable in adding the larger 2.11" later valve heads - but not needed either. The 326HO was designed to compete against the Chevy Hi-Po 283 option back in 1964. You can keep your heads, add larger valves, I recall you can use the Chevy Hi-Po 2.02" intakes, and do the usual head mods to get a decent head. A good cam, dual exhaust, and I might add a later factory cast iron Q-jet intake and carb. Would make a nice, fun, street combo that won't break the bank at the gas pump, especially if gas prices continue to climb, and still smoke tires.









Defender + Booster Fuel Additive


Defender + Booster Fuel Additive



drivenracingoil.com


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## 1969GPSJ (Feb 26, 2020)

I think that is a Joe Gibbs racing product (Driven)


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## TK (66 Tempest 326) (Feb 19, 2021)

PontiacJim said:


> Get the PHS documents for your car which will tell you all the specs and options.
> 
> The rear gear with a 3-speed seems to generally be 3.23's. Use the 80-90 gear oil and if adding to the rear if flushing/changing, add a can of additive for the posi. I use Lucas brand gear oil.
> 
> ...


That's all great info...thank you Jim!

Neither Advance Auto or O'Reilly's had an oil filter in stock. Auto Zone (and NAPA) had it, so I got a Mobil One (M1-701, if memory serves) filter. Got that, Castrol 10W30 dino oil and zinc additive. Actually, the oil looks only medium brown, so while I normally change the oil immediately on any newly purchased vehicle, I'll wait a couple hundred miles and see how it looks. Also got Mobil One 75W90 "LS" gear oil. Waiting for Advance to have a diff cover gasket delivered later today (depending on the weather, might wait until it's warmer and the residual snow melts, just washed 'er!). Also got lead substitute (forget the brand).

I'm at about 5,700 ft elevation here in Colorado, so regular octane in this region is 85 octane. I filled it with mid-grade (87) a few days ago. Is 85 or 87 is okay with this (lower compression) motor? Normally, I wouldn't need to ask...I know when and when I don't need it (for my turbo cars or Z06; 11:1 CR), but just want to be sure there's not something I don't know with that Pontiac motor.

Thanks again for the good info...


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## 1969GPSJ (Feb 26, 2020)

take a peek at your rear end cover and make sure they get you the correct gasket,
I think your gasket should be the one with the ears cut off see below


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## 1969GPSJ (Feb 26, 2020)

wrong one


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## TK (66 Tempest 326) (Feb 19, 2021)

1969GPSJ said:


> take a peek at your rear end cover and make sure they get you the correct gasket,
> I think your gasket should be the one with the ears cut off see below
> View attachment 140815


Thanks for the tip. Indeed it is as such. And as we can see, those bolts suggest that cover hasn't been removed in potentially decades (possibly 5.5 decades?). I think back in the day (including myself), many weren't too good at changing the gear oil. I had my Chevelle 10 years and never did (was young and naive).


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## TK (66 Tempest 326) (Feb 19, 2021)

1969GPSJ said:


> View attachment 140816
> wrong one


Your tip is now doubly appreciated. Advance had the wrong (like above) one sent over from another location. He couldn't find the correct one at first but went into a different section in the system (?) and found it...getting couriered to my local store tomorrow.


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## nick rice (Nov 10, 2014)

Welcome.. Thats a beauty. I always say Got to Love a Post. I'd leave it. Just get rid of that red heater hose. 
O ya, the fuel filter too. Just a little detail under the hood, not much.

Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk


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## 1969GPSJ (Feb 26, 2020)

awesome it still has the posi tag intact the rear cover should clean up nice, after you remove the cover you can find your axle ratio divide higher # into lower #


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## RMTZ67 (Mar 12, 2011)

TK (66 Tempest 326) said:


> Thanks for the tip. Indeed it is as such. And as we can see, those bolts suggest that cover hasn't been removed in potentially decades (possibly 5.5 decades?). I think back in the day (including myself), many weren't too good at changing the gear oil. I had my Chevelle 10 years and never did (was young and naive).
> View attachment 140817


You might try to loosen your fill plug before emptying your diff. Just in case your plug wont come out. Ask me how I know. Had to drill mine out, don't want you ruining your gasket.


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## 1969GPSJ (Feb 26, 2020)

Good tip I forgot


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## TK (66 Tempest 326) (Feb 19, 2021)

1969GPSJ said:


> awesome it still has the posi tag intact the rear cover should clean up nice, after you remove the cover you can find your axle ratio divide higher # into lower #


Right...was happy to see that tag as well. Though no reason to suspect the numbers won't be there, I learned they're simply the number of teeth on the ring gear and # of teeth on the smaller vertical gear (directly connected to the axle shaft).

As I've done w/past diff covers, I'll repaint it (after hitting it with a brillo pad (or ?...maybe a drill bit style abrasive disc?) to get the surface rust off. I'll also rinse out the gears with plenty of brake cleaner to get every last bit of nasty old gear oil out. Not too optimistic, but I'm hoping the fresh gear oil will quiet the whining down a bit. If it doesn't, I'll have it rebuilt.

And though one can only see a bit of it, that gas tank has lost its youthful beauty, so its time has come. Spectra (Canadian company) makes repro tanks for it, so I'll get one of those (and new straps) and get a nice new tank installed.


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## TK (66 Tempest 326) (Feb 19, 2021)

RMTZ67 said:


> You might try to loosen your fill plug before emptying your diff. Just in case your plug wont come out. Ask me how I know. Had to drill mine out, don't want you ruining your gasket.


Great tip. I'll presoak it with WD-40/parts loosener. Don't have a blow torch, but do have a heat gun. I could hit it with some heat prior as well. Thanks for the forewarning...


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## TK (66 Tempest 326) (Feb 19, 2021)

nick rice said:


> Welcome.. Thats a beauty. I always say Got to Love a Post. I'd leave it. Just get rid of that red heater hose.
> O ya, the fuel filter too. Just a little detail under the hood, not much.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk


Speaking of heater hose...since I wasn't getting any heat into the cabin (though the vent fan works), I checked to see if the heater hose was hot. It definitely was not. The main radiator hoses were, but both heater hoses in and out of the firewall weren't even warm.

That's perplexing to me...but hopefully clues someone into a solution to get some heat goin' in the cabin.


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## TK (66 Tempest 326) (Feb 19, 2021)

Maybe I should mention the upper lever on the vent/heater controls will only move between off and heat...clicks to there, but will not move to the deice on the right. The fan definitely produces air flow on the floor...and at the windshield (which it shouldn't if deice isn't selected, yes?


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## PontiacJim (Dec 29, 2012)

TK (66 Tempest 326) said:


> That's all great info...thank you Jim!
> 
> Neither Advance Auto or O'Reilly's had an oil filter in stock. Auto Zone (and NAPA) had it, so I got a Mobil One (M1-701, if memory serves) filter. Got that, Castrol 10W30 dino oil and zinc additive. Actually, the oil looks only medium brown, so while I normally change the oil immediately on any newly purchased vehicle, I'll wait a couple hundred miles and see how it looks. Also got Mobil One 75W90 "LS" gear oil. Waiting for Advance to have a diff cover gasket delivered later today (depending on the weather, might wait until it's warmer and the residual snow melts, just washed 'er!). Also got lead substitute (forget the brand).
> 
> ...


Your 326 will be the 250HP version with 9.3 compression, so at your altitude, pump gas regular should be no problem. You may have to adjust the carb for the higher altitude, but try it the way it is and see how it goes.


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## 1969GPSJ (Feb 26, 2020)

TK
possibly a heater core issue, no coolant flow from engine , maybe remove both heater hoses and attach a water source to confirm no flow in & out could be sludge in the heater core, the fuel tank may be good inside but ugly outside, , I would soak the bolts for the tank straps , the fuel sending unit may be fragile so keep an eye on that
I am curious what gear set the rear has installed with a factory 3 speed


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## 1969GPSJ (Feb 26, 2020)

not sure if you have used RA? I have sourced them before and had good luck, I also get discount codes(5%) every once in a while





1966 PONTIAC TEMPEST 5.3L 326cid V8 Fuel Tank | RockAuto


RockAuto ships auto parts and body parts from over 300 manufacturers to customers' doors worldwide, all at warehouse prices. Easy to use parts catalog.



www.rockauto.com


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## pontrc (Mar 18, 2020)

On the heater issue with the hoses being warm check to make sure there’s a thermostat in the housing. The hose coming off the head is the supply to the core. Just another suggestion to GPs suggestion


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## 1969GPSJ (Feb 26, 2020)

oops wrong 
link corrected


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## TK (66 Tempest 326) (Feb 19, 2021)

1969GPSJ said:


> TK
> possibly a heater core issue, no coolant flow from engine , maybe remove both heater hoses and attach a water source to confirm no flow in & out could be sludge in the heater core, the fuel tank may be good inside but ugly outside, if you decide to do the tank , I would soak the bolts for the tank straps & you may need new tank straps , the fuel sending unit may be fragile so keep an eye on that
> I am curious what gear set the rear has installed with a factory 3 speed


Well, I was hoping I wouldn't hear heater core. After several years of no-heat winters in San Diego, I replaced the core in my Chevelle. Wasn't as experienced (nor the wisdom of how important the right tools are) at "bigger" (bigger than r&ring an alternator), so it took me all day to accomplish.

Agreed...I'm assuming it's okay inside, but it's so ugly, it's time. I ordered a new Spectra tank and new straps (with strap pads) a couple hours ago. I r&red the tank in my TR a couple years ago, so I know what I'm up against. Okay...I'll be very careful with the sending unit.

Very curious too about the diff gear. The high today is supposed to be 37 degrees. The forecast for Tuesday is 56, so haven't decided. Might happen today if I get too antsy. But I'll definitely let you know when I learn the gear ratio.


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## TK (66 Tempest 326) (Feb 19, 2021)

1969GPSJ said:


> not sure if you have used RA? I have sourced them before and had good luck, I also get discount codes(5%) every once in a while
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I've used Rock Auto many times...great prices. I spaced it 5 am and went straight to eBay (see they also have the Spectra)...paid $20 more for the same tank before the 5% discount (I'm often emailed the discount code, but it expires...have Googled the current code so can always get it). I'll likely be using RA lots for this car though...will be ordering KYBs shortly through them (and possibly coil springs). But good tip/reminder...


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## TK (66 Tempest 326) (Feb 19, 2021)

pontrc said:


> On the heater issue with the hoses being warm check to make sure there’s a thermostat in the housing. The hose coming off the head is the supply to the core. Just another suggestion to GPs suggestion


Was curious about whether it had a stat as well. Preliminary indication is that it does, as I saw no coolant circulating with the rad cap off just after cold start-up. That's not definitive (could be stuck closed), so I'll be doing a direct check soon.

Do you happen to know how the heater core in these is accessed? It required removing the wheel well in my Chevelle. I'm hoping some might be accessible through the passenger compartment's heater box. I'm sure I'll find a DIY vid on Youtube...


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## TK (66 Tempest 326) (Feb 19, 2021)

Looks like I might be replacing the water pump soon as well. There's a small leak somewhere at or around it...looks like at the mating surface between it and the engine. Just enough to detect a bit of steam rising.

I see it's got a new radiator, so that's good.

That alternator trips me out...looks decades old, but obviously still working. Hard not to not justify replacing it as well.

Belts look okay, but I'll probably replace those as well soon.


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## 1969GPSJ (Feb 26, 2020)

I know you said the cig lighter may not be working but this may work in the interim this is from Amazon of course if its just a blown fuse for the cig lighter 
the alternator looks to have been replaced (stickers on the side) you can always confirm the stamping on the case 
water pump not sure if there were different w/p for that year but you may want to measure the mating flange, if you do the water pump you are half way to the timing gear set, if the 70k is correct I would just bite the bullet and replace the timimg gear it will go soon if it is the the orig


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## 1969GPSJ (Feb 26, 2020)

if the alternator is decades old it's probably rebuilt better(USA) vs the rebuild of today (off shore)


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## 1969GPSJ (Feb 26, 2020)

non a/c car so I think you can get away without removing wheel well, I think the nuts holding the heater core cover in the engine compartment are 3/8, I think there was 2 nuts that are hard to reach , still better than removing the wheel well


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## integrity6987 (May 10, 2017)

TK (66 Tempest 326) said:


> I'll likely be using RA lots for this car though...


I'd be so cool to see your car on one of those toolbox magnets!!


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## Jetzster (Jan 18, 2020)

TK (66 Tempest 326) said:


> That's all great info...thank you Jim!
> 
> Neither Advance Auto or O'Reilly's had an oil filter in stock. Auto Zone (and NAPA) had it, so I got a Mobil One (M1-701, if memory serves) filter. Got that, Castrol 10W30 dino oil and zinc additive. Actually, the oil looks only medium brown, so while I normally change the oil immediately on any newly purchased vehicle, I'll wait a couple hundred miles and see how it looks. Also got Mobil One 75W90 "LS" gear oil. Waiting for Advance to have a diff cover gasket delivered later today (depending on the weather, might wait until it's warmer and the residual snow melts, just washed 'er!). Also got lead substitute (forget the brand).
> 
> I'm at about 5,700 ft elevation here in Colorado, so regular octane in this region is 85 octane. I filled it with mid-grade (87) a few days ago. Is 85 or 87 is okay with this (lower compression) motor? Normally, I wouldn't need to ask...I know when and when I don't need it (for my turbo cars or Z06; 11:1 CR), but just want to be sure there's not something I don't know with that Pontiac motor.Thanks again for the good info...


Great Car TK!
Another great oil to checkout with zinc in it alreadyIs Valvoline V-1 Racing Oil 10-30w
There was a discussion here that zinc worked best when it was added by the manufacturer into the oil But , prob it’s no biggie either way as long as it’s in there,
also ,Here  was a discussion on adding the best rear spings, they may still avail on order thru
Summit or Franks Used Parts ,
also






beats anything else hands down for loosing your parts up
I think The 15 inch wheels are really the way to go, mostNowadays I think have em, but purists still stick with 14’s
Guess it’s what yer into😀


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## RMTZ67 (Mar 12, 2011)

TK (66 Tempest 326) said:


> Was curious about whether it had a stat as well. Preliminary indication is that it does, as I saw no coolant circulating with the rad cap off just after cold start-up. That's not definitive (could be stuck closed), so I'll be doing a direct check soon.
> 
> Do you happen to know how the heater core in these is accessed? It required removing the wheel well in my Chevelle. I'm hoping some might be accessible through the passenger compartment's heater box. I'm sure I'll find a DIY vid on Youtube...


I did my heater core about 6 months ago and I did not remove my fender well on my 67 w/o ac. I used a extra long wrench (7/16 I believe) to access that nut from the top. Only would have took me about three hours but i started tightening and one stud was not thru the hole. So double check that before you start tightening up your bolts.


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## TK (66 Tempest 326) (Feb 19, 2021)

PontiacJim said:


> Get the PHS documents for your car which will tell you all the specs and options.
> 
> The rear gear with a 3-speed seems to generally be 3.23's. Use the 80-90 gear oil and if adding to the rear if flushing/changing, add a can of additive for the posi. I use Lucas brand gear oil.
> 
> ...


You are correct. The 2 doesn't show too clear in the photo, but the #s are definitely 42 and 13, which equals 3.23.


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## TK (66 Tempest 326) (Feb 19, 2021)

RMTZ67 said:


> You might try to loosen your fill plug before emptying your diff. Just in case your plug wont come out. Ask me how I know. Had to drill mine out, don't want you ruining your gasket.


I did presoak the fill plug with WD-40 Rust Release Penetrant spray. It came loose lickity split, which I think was more so because the fluid had definitely been changed prior to decades ago as I thought might be the case. The cover bolts also came of with ease (presoaked them as well), no muscle required. And the gear oil was only medium brown (molasses color). But...always nice to know specifically when it was last changed. So I'll be entering that service in a maintenance log.

Also changed the plugs...the ones in it weren't bad, but regardless, fresh ones it has (probably the easiest new plugs install I've ever done...classic car (with no a/c or power brake booster makes for exceedingly easy access!!!). Several plug wires weren't snapped on to the plugs. I had noticed earlier coolant leaking from where the upper radiator hose meets the radiator. It leaked a pretty good size puddle after a drive...a quick tightening of the hose clamp was all it took.


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## TK (66 Tempest 326) (Feb 19, 2021)

Rock Auto has two different shocks, one for "w/heavy duty suspension" and one for "except heavy duty suspension". I just called KYB tech support, asking if it was just that one was stiffer or if they vary in size/fitment. The only thing she could say was restating in so many words that it depends on the specs of the vehicle.

The window sticker line item says "springs & shocks-ride & handling"...suggesting the possibility that it's what KYB refers to as the heavy duty suspension. But because it's not clear, I'm hoping someone can give some clarity on which suspension it has.

1966 PONTIAC TEMPEST 5.3L 326cid V8 Shock Absorber | RockAuto


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## PontiacJim (Dec 29, 2012)

TK (66 Tempest 326) said:


> Rock Auto has two different shocks, one for "w/heavy duty suspension" and one for "except heavy duty suspension". I just called KYB tech support, asking if it was just that one was stiffer or if they vary in size/fitment. The only thing she could say was restating in so many words that it depends on the specs of the vehicle.
> 
> The window sticker line item says "springs & shocks-ride & handling"...suggesting the possibility that it's what KYB refers to as the heavy duty suspension. But because it's not clear, I'm hoping someone can give some clarity on which suspension it has.
> 
> 1966 PONTIAC TEMPEST 5.3L 326cid V8 Shock Absorber | RockAuto


I would want the HD shocks regardless of brand or what the factory used. The ride and handling package for the GTO and I suppose Lemans & Tempest models, was simply the addition of HD shocks to the car.


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## TK (66 Tempest 326) (Feb 19, 2021)

PontiacJim said:


> I would want the HD shocks regardless of brand or what the factory used. The ride and handling package for the GTO and I suppose Lemans & Tempest models, was simply the addition of HD shocks to the car.


Very good. HD it is.


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## integrity6987 (May 10, 2017)

TK (66 Tempest 326) said:


> easiest new plugs install I've ever done


working on these cars is half the fun!


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## TK (66 Tempest 326) (Feb 19, 2021)

integrity6987 said:


> working on these cars is half the fun!


It really is...can't wait for the new coil springs and shocks to come in.


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## Montreux (Mar 8, 2009)

Nice!!!

As far as upgrading the engine:
Pontiacs have great parts interchangeability. Pontiacs left the factory with essentially flattop pistons (shallow dimples for valve clearance), so compression ratio changes were because of combustion chamber volume. Your 2-barrel heads are about 9.5:1 if I remember right—not bad for today’s gas. 

Intake manifolds 1965 and later will bolt on. Later heads have taller exhaust crossover ports and may require block off plates. wallaceracing.com has good info on year breaks, gasket sets, etc. 65-66 tripower is a bolt-on. 65 has a smaller center carb. 

4 barrel intakes may be for Carter or Rochester carbs. Rochester Qjet was first available on the GTO for 67 (big cars still used Carter).

I think the 326 4barrel used a different cam than the 2 barrel. With a manual trans, you could could go up one more step; I think GTO used 067 cams for automatic and 068 for manuals. 326 cams were a little milder. 

Preferred exhaust seems to be the cast iron HO/RA manifolds—easier to install than headers, and less likely to leak. It will require different head pipes. All available aftermarket, and choice of diameters and materials for head pipes. 

A-bodies came as either post (like your car) or hardtop. Vinyl top was an option with either configuration. They were also available with two-tone paint that used vinyl top trim as a divider between the colors. Paint codes appear on the trim tag on the firewall. 

The Paul Zazarine book is a good intro to factory equipment and options.


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## SLSTEVE (Dec 8, 2020)

TK (66 Tempest 326) said:


> Thanks GTOTIGR. Agreed...I temporarily forgot the Tempest was the base model (my friend had a '69 or '70 Tempest (6-cyl, no pwr steering) in the '80s, probably bought it for <$1K back then...fair price considering its condition), being I've seen so few of them throughout the years.
> 
> And right...I didn't find any indication fabric upholstery was OEM style (obviously replaced...looks like it was installed last week), but I suppose I don't mind it) during a browsing of classic parts vendors (OPGI and YearOne).
> 
> ...


Welcome TK, nice looking car! I’m a little north of you (Castle Rock), and just had my rearend rebuilt by Front Range Driveline in Denver. Can’t vouch for their mechanical ability yet as the car is still in the building stage, but they kept me informed, offered advice, and built a beautiful unit. There are probably builders closer to you though, maybe the Springs. Have fun with whatever you decide to do with her.


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## Scott06 (May 6, 2020)

I like those hubcaps, i had a set on my first car which was a 65 lemans coupe (326 2 bbl) always liked the way they looked. 

the 326 4 bbl i think had 285 hp so you can see how much you would gain if you upgraded. Definitely if you want more power drop in a 400/428/455.
definitely looks like you have a nice straight car, and its in one piece so you can enjoy it while you work on it.


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## Scott06 (May 6, 2020)

Montreux said:


> Nice!!!
> 
> As far as upgrading the engine:
> Pontiacs have great parts interchangeability. Pontiacs left the factory with essentially flattop pistons (shallow dimples for valve clearance), so compression ratio changes were because of combustion chamber volume. Your 2-barrel heads are about 9.5:1 if I remember right—not bad for today’s gas.
> ...


65 gto the 067 was on all 4 bbl cars 068 on tripower. The 066 grind was used i think on some automatics especially in the big cars , i think it was a tad milder than the 067.


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## Robert1965 (Jan 4, 2020)

First. Love the car! Awesome! I would leave it alone. With the exception of adding a 2bbl EFI, and HEI. It's a weekend project and Butler sells an in tank kit. You said it's running great so I'd even be hesitant to do that. Love the car.


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## TK (66 Tempest 326) (Feb 19, 2021)

Montreux said:


> Nice!!!
> 
> As far as upgrading the engine:
> Pontiacs have great parts interchangeability. Pontiacs left the factory with essentially flattop pistons (shallow dimples for valve clearance), so compression ratio changes were because of combustion chamber volume. Your 2-barrel heads are about 9.5:1 if I remember right—not bad for today’s gas.
> ...


Great info Montreux...thank you greatly. After I get some of the more basic items addressed (have new shocks, springs and drop spindles and gas tank on their way as we speak), no heat and whine in the drivetrain (either differential bearings or wheel hub, I suspect), I'll decide if I want to do anything with the motor. If I do, I'm quite confident I'd want to keep the original motor...at most, change to the higher compression heads and add 4BBL carb (okay...maaaaybe a tad more cam).

I drove it on a highway (~6 mi. each way) and every time I hit 3rd (and 60 mph), it just seemed to be begging for that OD gear. So keep thinking T-5 Tremec.

At first, I wasn't too crazy about the color, but now that I've been looking at it a week (knowing it's the original color), if I repainted the imperfect surfaces (mostly where the trim running along the center of the body was), I'd keep it the same color.


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## TK (66 Tempest 326) (Feb 19, 2021)

Scott06 said:


> I like those hubcaps, i had a set on my first car which was a 65 lemans coupe (326 2 bbl) always liked the way they looked.
> 
> the 326 4 bbl i think had 285 hp so you can see how much you would gain if you upgraded. Definitely if you want more power drop in a 400/428/455.
> definitely looks like you have a nice straight car, and its in one piece so you can enjoy it while you work on it.


Though I don't mind those who tribute/clone the performance models, I'm not tempted with the tempest. I've come to really like this 326, so at best, maybe upgrade to emulate the HO version.

I usually drool when I see cars with the big displacement motors. But something is compelling me to continue to retain the same spirit of whoever's owned it the last 55 years, at least for the most part...keep it a cruiser.

I really like the Rallye I wheels...have identical 15x7s ordered (though they're telling me it might be May before they ship).

Thanks for your reply Scott!


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## TK (66 Tempest 326) (Feb 19, 2021)

Robert1965 said:


> First. Love the car! Awesome! I would leave it alone. With the exception of adding a 2bbl EFI, and HEI. It's a weekend project and Butler sells an in tank kit. You said it's running great so I'd even be hesitant to do that. Love the car.


Those mods are a temptation...the HEI distributor especially, to help protect the motor. Though I'm still learning how much gas to give it (have flooded it a couple times, turning it into a 30 second cold-start session). When warm, no gas, instant start. 

And once warm, the motor purrs...at idle, it's exceedingly smooth...only just enough vibration from the seat (with some conscious focus) to detect that the engine is running.

Thanks for your comments Robert...


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## TK (66 Tempest 326) (Feb 19, 2021)

SLSTEVE said:


> Welcome TK, nice looking car! I’m a little north of you (Castle Rock), and just had my rearend rebuilt by Front Range Driveline in Denver. Can’t vouch for their mechanical ability yet as the car is still in the building stage, but they kept me informed, offered advice, and built a beautiful unit. There are probably builders closer to you though, maybe the Springs. Have fun with whatever you decide to do with her.


Let me know how it turns out and what they charged. Did you take your car to them or just drop off the rear end?

Yes, there are a few differential shops in the Springs, but don't mind a bit of travel if the quality is high and the lower price justifies it.


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## 1968gto421 (Mar 28, 2014)

If you ever have to overhaul your engine, one of the cheapest ways to improve performance, mainly to get great torque, would be to stroke it with a 4" crank from a 428 (IMHO). Pontiac blocks are all the same dimensions from the 1955 engine to the last ones c1981. Great for crankshaft interchageability.

Other members have mentioned the Wallace racing site for great tech info. It is and here's the link:





__





Wallace Racing - Automotive Calculators







www.wallaceracing.com





If you do any engine work, my favorite place to go whether its stock or modified is Butler Performance. They also have a great tech info section listed at the top of the home page. My experience if you order parts and need help, its best to call them. Some of the hourly people are OK but if you need hard or rare info, ask for David Butler. I found him to be a fountain of info, especially since he's done Pontiacs for decades. Here's a link to their site:



https://butlerperformance.com/



Love your Tempest, a rare Pontiac unicorn. Enjoy

(Another Pontiac forum with good info (if you haven't already used it) is the PY forum):






Pontiac - Street - PY Online Forums - Bringing the Pontiac Hobby Together


No question too basic here!



forums.maxperformanceinc.com


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## TK (66 Tempest 326) (Feb 19, 2021)

1968gto421 said:


> If you ever have to overhaul your engine, one of the cheapest ways to improve performance, mainly to get great torque, would be to stroke it with a 4" crank from a 428 (IMHO). Pontiac blocks are all the same dimensions from the 1955 engine to the last ones c1981. Great for crankshaft interchageability.
> 
> Other members have mentioned the Wallace racing site for great tech info. It is and here's the link:
> 
> ...


Great info...thanks!


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## PontiacJim (Dec 29, 2012)

TK (66 Tempest 326) said:


> Great info...thanks!


The 428 crank will not fit without modifications. Main bearing journals are 3.25" versus the 326's 3.00". The mains must be ground .250" under to "fit" the 326 block. The rear seal surface must also be made smaller. Then you will need to address the thrust surface so it works with the 326 block. And with any stroker crank/kit, you want to check rotating clearances and grind on the pan rail if needed.

The better route, if you wanted to go with more cubes, is a Butler stroker kit for the 326.



https://butlerperformance.com/c-1234781-engine-components-internal-rotating-assemblies-stroker-kits-326-blocks-353-382-cu-in.html



The problem here will be the heads - they won't flow enough CFM's to really take advantage of th bigger stroke and cubes. Keep in mind the 326 has a small bore and you are limited on valve size before the valves will hit the cylinder wall. The cylinder wall at the tops can be notched to allow the larger valves, but you are also getting into valve shrouding with the valves so close to the wall. Now you can use the smaller valves, but the heads will act as a choke and the RPM range the engine will spin will be reduced.

So the budget can soar if you are trying to keep it low.

I've always thought a small Pontiac cubic inch engine would be fun to get it to turn high RPM's like a small block Chevy. Forged crank/Rods/Pistons, ARP main studs, 2.02" intakes valves/ported heads, rowdy cam, RA exhaust manifolds, factory cast iron Qjet intake and carb - maybe even something period looking like an Offenhauser 2x4 intake and pair of 500 CFM AFB carbs. 3.73-3.90 gearing.


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## 1968gto421 (Mar 28, 2014)

PJ is right about the 428 4" crank but it was near my bedtime and I neglected to mention I was thinking after market crank w/ no mods needed.

Moving along, whether you keep the 2gc 2bbl or acquire an afb 4bbl, I've found the best place to get anything from rebuild kits to some hard to find carb parts, the place to use is The Carburetor Shop. Jon is a great guy and given your carb number, he will make a rebuild lkit specifically for your carb. The auto parts stores and Rock Auto supply you with universal carb kits that use generic parts and frequently don't fit/work. This is because of the low demand for carb stuff. Jon is a fountain of info too. Here is the correct link since "carb shop" has a zillion places listed on google:



THE CARBURETOR SHOP



If you haven't yet found it, Ames is the great place for Pontiac parts (body, interior, chassis, engine). They are great with advice on the phone as well as ordering. You can download their catalog or request a paper one.






Ames Performance Engineering, Classic GTO Parts, Firebird Parts, and Full Size Pontiac restoration parts.


Pontiac GTO, Lemans, Tempest, Firebird, Trans am, Bonneville, Grand Prix, Catalina, GTO Parts, restoration, reproduction parts, ram air, engine, hinges, bumpers, latches, switches, carburetor, brakes, weatherstrip, seals, chrome, hoods, emblems, sheet metal, GM Licensed



secure.amesperf.com





Catalog download:



https://secure.amesperf.com/catalogs/G36.pdf



Best of luck with your Tempest!


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## TK (66 Tempest 326) (Feb 19, 2021)

It's actually you guys I consider the fountain of info. Just pointing to vendors and Pontiac parts specialists is invaluable info for me. Thank you gentlemen...

I'll take my time and keep considering based on the options you've provided. I just received the front coil springs, KYBs, drop spindles and went and got new wheel bearing and ball joints (though I think those are okay, it only makes sense to install fresh bearings and balls joints). So...I'll likely endeavor the springs/shocks and spindles tomorrow.

And before I consider any upgrades to the motor, I just gotta upgrade to at least front disc/power brakes. The 4-wheel unassisted drums won't cut it with performance (power/handling) enhancements.


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## SLSTEVE (Dec 8, 2020)

TK (66 Tempest 326) said:


> Let me know how it turns out and what they charged. Did you take your car to them or just drop off the rear end?
> 
> Yes, there are a few differential shops in the Springs, but don't mind a bit of travel if the quality is high and the lower price justifies it.


The final bill was 1586.00. When I went to pay him with cash he said 1500 is good. That price included new 3.55 ring and pinion and new Eaton posi carrier, plus all new bearings and seals and the cost of sandblasting and painting. Have yet to run it but I am getting close. Will let you know how it works when I get her on the road.


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## Scott06 (May 6, 2020)

You mention a disc upgrade. I put this kit from Summit on my 65 GTO a year ago worked very nice, easy install, huge upgrade vs the drums. Summit Racing SUM-BK1501 Summit Racing® Complete Drum-to-Disc Brake Conversion Kits | Summit Racing

Its very similar to other kits out there from Right Stuff etc, maybe even the same kit. I onluy had to fab up a couple of short pieces of the 3 brake lines and get an adapter (flare nut bushing) between the existing rear brake line size and the proportioning valve. 
You need 15" wheels for this one , they do have one with 10.5" rotors which clears a stock 14" disc brake wheel if you want to stick with the hub caps.


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## Robert1965 (Jan 4, 2020)

Awesome info. I got The Right Stuff sitting on a shelf now. Hopefully I will be bolt it on with the front and rear suspension next month. It's supposed to fit under stock wheels of the 65. We'll see. It'll be manual 4 wheel disc with parking brake. The body is off so now's the time to run the lines since it's a convertible frame.


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## SLSTEVE (Dec 8, 2020)

Robert1965 said:


> Awesome info. I got The Right Stuff sitting on a shelf now. Hopefully I will be bolt it on with the front and rear suspension next month. It's supposed to fit under stock wheels of the 65. We'll see. It'll be manual 4 wheel disc with parking brake. The body is off so now's the time to run the lines since it's a convertible frame.





Robert1965 said:


> Awesome info. I got The Right Stuff sitting on a shelf now. Hopefully I will be bolt it on with the front and rear suspension next month. It's supposed to fit under stock wheels. We'll see.


OMG! Have you ever ran all new fuel and brake lines with the body on the frame? Just about impossible to get them all correctly positioned and clamped. Especially when you know you can’t remove the body from the frame anymore because the [email protected]/:[email protected] failed to weld the new body bushing bolts to ANYTHING prior to him welding the floor pan closed! I told him to put everything back OE but he didn’t. And guess who is paying for it?
In


Scott06 said:


> You mention a disc upgrade. I put this kit from Summit on my 65 GTO a year ago worked very nice, easy install, huge upgrade
> Yeah, when I bought the car the resto had already begun by the PO. He had the frame powder coated grey(who does THAT?), he installed new front disc brake with slotted rotors, and supposedly had front end all rebuilt. After crawling under and around that car for the past few months, I am beginning to suspect that the front end is in used condition. All of the ball joint boots are cracked and split open, everything looks like it is clean but that’s what a high pressure washer accomplishes, so the jury is out on that for right now. I plan to get her running to break in cam and new rearend and then get her on the road to assess front end condition.
> I have to say here that everything on this car has been a major struggle from the beginning. Although the rotors and disc brakes are new, it took me 4 sets of brake hoses to finally get hoses that fit and worked. I guess if you buy a disc brake kit everything for that installation will fit and function for that year and model car. I had to pull a caliper and take it to the local NAPA store to source the correct sized banjo bolts. Turned out they were 10mm x 1.5 x ?. Then the hose issue. Ordered all three from NAPA. 65’s didn’t come with front discs, so when were they factory installed? 68, so get me a set of those, nope, book only goes back to 71, so get me those. They didn’t fit-too short. Got a pair for 73 GTO and same thing. Ended up going through the parts book with counter guy at NAPA and found a pair of 14.5 inch hoses with banjo fitting on one end and 3/8 inch inverted flare fitting on the other end. Haven’t tried them yet but they look promising.
> 
> ...


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