# Sticky  Restoring a 1965 GTO convertible tri power



## cij911 (Oct 25, 2017)

I thought I would document the restoration of my 65 GTO convertible. The car came as a three speed manual with tripower. Currently the car has a 400 motor with 14 heads (should be low compression) and the original tri power setup. The brakes are manual drums all around. Originally the car was mission beige / gold interior. The car appears very nice from 10 feet away, but as I inspected closely I found lots of issues with the body.

My plan is to get the car running well mechanically, then do the bodywork and paint, and finally the interior.

The car was damaged in transit (long story). The trucking company was awful and their insurance company is doing everything they can to not pay for the damage. Regardless, it will get fixed . Here is how the car started :


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## cij911 (Oct 25, 2017)

Here was the interior. Apparently some animals (mice / rats) had been nesting in the car, so it was clear that everything would be removed. I was not a fan of the gold either, so I decided to change the interior color to black (I am saving all the original panels so it can always be put back).


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## cij911 (Oct 25, 2017)

Mechanically the first thing I needed to do was work on the transmission / Hurst shifter. The shifter is the original from 65, but the base plate and linkages were incorrect for the 4 speed Muncie (it appears they tried to make the 3 speed linkage work ??). Why the previous owner drove the car this way is a mystery. Anyone that has driven a properly aligned Hurst shifter will tell you that they are AMAZING. The way this thing shifted was far from amazing.

First thing I did was call the legend Paul C. @ 5Speeds Transmission Home Page. Paul has been building amazing transmissions for ~37 years and is a super nice and honest. I sent Paul pictures of the linkage and transmission and he immediately identified the problem. Unfortunately he did not have the parts as they were on back order, but referred me to Scott @ https://www.hurstshiftersonline.com/productcart/pc/viewcategories.asp as they are the distributor for Hurst parts. Scott was able to send me an entire linkage kit and so the fun began.

Let me start by saying that working on a car in a driveway or garage without a proper lift is a real pain in the butt (back and neck too). What should be an hour job at most took me ~3+ hours. Removing the old base plate was a pain and required me to access the top bolt from inside the cabin and others while under the car. The shift linkage has to be precise and my STRONG recommendation is to lay everything out on a table near your car, label the parts, and make sure you know the proper orientation before going under the car. Furthermore, HURST shifters are EXTREMELY finicky and you MUST use the alignment tool or a nail if you want the shifter to work properly. I started with the 3-4 rod, then the 1-2 rod, and then reverse.

Once done and aligned properly, the car was almost fun to drive. Shifting is just a joy....1-2-3-4-3-2 heel and toe bliss....Now for the engine....


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## 1421royalgto (Dec 24, 2017)

If you need help with the 65 gto just let me know I have been doing this since 1983. I have a parts book from 1965 that has the right part numbers for your car. I too have a 65 gto that I have owned since 1983 . I am looking for the 2 letter code for the frame of the car and was wondering if you have any info on it like maybe a build sheet for your car?


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## cij911 (Oct 25, 2017)

1421royalgto said:


> If you need help with the 65 gto just let me know I have been doing this since 1983. I have a parts book from 1965 that has the right part numbers for your car. I too have a 65 gto that I have owned since 1983 . I am looking for the 2 letter code for the frame of the car and was wondering if you have any info on it like maybe a build sheet for your car?


Thank you & Merry Christmas !

I have the PHS documentation for my car, but I'd have to look to see if I have the 2 letter code for the frame. Where is the frame usually stamped ? 

On a side note, my car currently does not have a driver side mirror. Would that show on the build sheet or did all 65's have drivers side mirrors ? (I wish it had passenger as well.)


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## El Monte Slim (Sep 8, 2014)

cij911 said:


> Originally the car was mission beige / gold interior.





cij911 said:


> I was not a fan of the gold either, so I decided to change the interior color to black (I am saving all the original panels so it can always be put back).



I'm a fan of the Beige exterior with the Gold interior (obviously, check my Garage).

It seems that 9 out of 10 of first-generation GTOs that I see have black interior.

Good luck with your project and keep posting photos!


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## cij911 (Oct 25, 2017)

I have a question regarding the restoration process and order in which to do certain items and am hoping I can get some perspective from the group.

My car is getting closer to being ready for paint. My plan was to paint the car and then install new suspension and brakes, but I am wondering if should install the suspension and brakes before paint ? If so, then I will need to install nice, new wheels and tires while the car is being painted.

Also, any thoughts on how many coats of paint I should do - X base and Y clear ? Or do you think I should use a single stage ?


Thanks


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## tjs72goat (Jul 20, 2017)

In my opinion, base clear is the way to go. I usually do three coats of each.


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## cij911 (Oct 25, 2017)

Well I have not updated this thread in a while, but have been busy on the GTO. So far I have done everything on the restoration except where identified.

I installed the correct hurst shift linkage has been installed (mentioned previously) - really a huge improvement.

The exterior has had some of the "blemishes" addressed. It appears the car was hit on the drivers side, right behind the door, and was repaired poorly.It has been fixed by a friend that used to run Carol Shelby's race team and is pretty much bare and ready for paint.

I cut the hood insert and hood out and have the RA plate.

The interior has been stripped, cleaned, and POR15 applied.

The center console was removed and painted with SEM satin black. All chrome / metal piece were polished by hand (time intensive). New wires were installed.

The dash was removed and also painted with SEM satin black. I have to say the SEM products are great and the finished products look OEM quality in my humble opinion. (I used the prep, sand free, and then color.)

All locks have been re-keyed (not by me) for a single key.

A new hydraulic motor was installed and bled (for the convertible top).

Doug headers were installed (not by me) and new engine mounts were installed.

MAD electronics "start em' up" kit was installed to eliminate the chance of a fire with the starter wire going down through the headers. The factory design was truly awful. I also installed a new power block and alternator wiring. I am still not sure if I am going to hide all the wires behind the fender or run along the inner fender (more like stock).

I have cleaned up the engine wiring, done some soldering, improved grounds, added a new distributor, wires, and plugs.

Next up:
1. remove intake with carbs - rebuild carbs and paint intake
2. paint engine
3. paint car
4. install new interior
5. install new radiator, fan, and shroud
6. install new gas tank and fuel lines
7. install suspension - still working on what I want to do here....I don't want to go nuts
8. install new brakes - LS1
9. install new wheels and tires - 18x8" and 18x10"

Then enjoy a beautiful classic driving along the Pacific Ocean....


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## cij911 (Oct 25, 2017)

A few more weekends on the car :

(1) Dash completed - painted the dash, painted the bezel rings with chrome paint, added brushed aluminum face
(2) Removed heater box and core (to replace core) - now want to restore the heater box (ugh)
(3) Painted passenger side of the motor / heads - 3 coats of primer and 3 coats of Pontiac blue
(4) Painted the heater hose bracket and alternator brackets

I did not worry about overspray on the hoses as I am replacing them. I am very happy with the painted motor and hope it lasts. I will paint the intake after I rebuild the carbs. The freshly painted motor really makes the car look great IMHO.


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## cij911 (Oct 25, 2017)

Attached are a few pictures of the main electrical setup I installed (MAD Electronics) :


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## cij911 (Oct 25, 2017)

So I spent a fair bit of time on the the intake manifold, valley pan, carbs, and heater box (along with pulleys and brackets), but I think they came out nicely so the time was well spent .

The manifold and valley pan were primed with a DHT ceramic enamel and then painted with the Pontiac Blue (Duplicolor) - two coats of primer and three coats of color.

The carbs were rebuilt with the help of a wonderful and inexpensive kit from Pontiac Tri Power 1959 -1965 Rebuild Kits (3) | Pontiac Tripower. The carb rebuild was rather straight forward, but the prep time to disassemble and clean the old carbs took a lot of time, TLC, and patience. Prior to putting the carbs back together, I painted them to best mimic the factory finish. I know some will object, but again, in my humble opinion they look great. (As of typing, I have not fired up the car, but I cannot wait to see how it runs and whether the bog has been eliminated. I will be checking the jetting with a wideband, and using the wideband for idle mixture.) 

The heater box was a mess and required a fair bit of sanding (more than I suspected on the inside and was a real pain in the a$$). On the inside of the heater box I used an Eastwood rustproofing spray designed for frame rails (long tube to get inside) and then a two step process on the outside (Eastwood Rust Eliminator + Eastwood Satin). Again, I think it looks a ton better than it did before....

Finally, I stripped, sanded, and painted the pulleys and brackets using the DHT enamel primer and DHT semi-gloss enamel engine paint. These came out OK, not great (and I re-did twice). Not sure why, but the paint was reacting and kept wrinkling.


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## Cafr119 (Dec 9, 2017)

Looks nice cij, thank you for sharing and enjoy your classic when you finish it.


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## PontiacJim (Dec 29, 2012)

*cij911*: "Finally, I stripped, sanded, and painted the pulleys and brackets using the DHT enamel primer and DHT semi-gloss enamel engine paint. These came out OK, not great (and I re-did twice). Not sure why, but the paint was reacting and kept wrinkling." 

*PJ*: Welcome to the world of EPA reformulated spray bomb paints. I created a thread on just this subject. Very frustrating trying to get a smooth good finish if you spray the paint like we used to. Yep, looks great, nice and glossy/shiny so you go and spray another top coat, or even clear to get some depth, and you watch the paint "crinkle" and "craze" on you once nice part. Sanding it down to get rid of the defect and respraying only brings the poor qualities back, or worse, adds a few more of the imperfections you were just trying to get out! LOL

Here is what I learned. Spray your paint, let it stand about 5 minutes to dry slightly, and then hit it with another coat - being careful not to overload the paint so you get runs, but not too little that you get a dry spray look either. If you want to clear it, wait another 5 minutes and hit it with clear. 

It used to be you would wait about 20-30 minutes for the paint to dry a little and then re-spray -this does not work with these paints. And if you think the primer should help, it doesn't. Tried several different types. What I found best is the metal etching spray bomb primer. It is a green in color when sprayed. It will dull out to more of a flat green when it gets near to being dried out - doesn't take too long. When you see the change, hit it with your color coats as above. 

The other way is to spray your color and then let it sit for about 2 weeks so that ALL the slow drying solvents evaporate and the paint hardens. Then you can put another cover coat or clear on, but again, not too heavy or guess what?

I found spray bombing my brackets & pulleys very frustrating and had to fight with them to get a good finish. I finally accepted that a few were going to have to be OK with the minor blemishes and I don't suspect too many people will see them anyway - its just that I know about them. LOL

The other option is purchasing paint from the local autobody/paint supplier and spray painting with a spray gun. I have all the equipment to do this, but didn't care to go through all that just for brackets & pulleys as mine is not a show car and spray bomb was cheaper and more convenient. :thumbsup:


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## cij911 (Oct 25, 2017)

PJ - Exactly the same experience here....I too finally settled, but my OCD may have me back at them again soon. I will just have to see what it looks like when everything is back and assembled.


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## cij911 (Oct 25, 2017)

Well the engine bay is coming together....

I have the engine, valley pan, intake manifold painted and reinstalled. I also added phenolic spacers and new carb studs to eliminate any chance of fuel evaporation (bowl).

I have the rebuilt carbureutors installed. 

I have cleaned up the 10 dn alternator and re-installed.

I have added a Holley fuel regulator with gauge (the tri powers like to run on 3 psi !!!).

I have cleaned up the radiator core support and surrounding area.

The steering gear box is out and a rebuilt unit with ~12.7:1 will be going in  - this should really help steering feel.

I may rebuild the steering pump before re-installing (I painted it already).

I will be touching up the fender liners and firewall.

Attached is a before and after picture .


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## cij911 (Oct 25, 2017)

Added a new fuel pump, rubber lines, and fuel tank.

I think she is now ready for paint.....

I've been waiting for this day for a long, long time (well not that long).....So now the debate is what color....

Original was Mission Beige and while I have seen some nicely restored Mission Beige, I really want something with more pop. I am leaning towards a graphite gray, but fontaine blue and mayfair are still possibilities. I am going for an aggressive rest mod look (slightly lowered with bigger wheels and tires). Recommendations / opinions ??


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## PontiacJim (Dec 29, 2012)

cij911 said:


> Added a new fuel pump, rubber lines, and fuel tank.
> 
> I think she is now ready for paint.....
> 
> ...


Always like the dark metallic gray's. I like what I call a "platinum gray" which was used on later model Corvettes - sorta a bright gray, yet still dark.


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## cij911 (Oct 25, 2017)

PontiacJim said:


> Always like the dark metallic gray's. I like what I call a "platinum gray" which was used on later model Corvettes - sorta a bright gray, yet still dark.


PJ - Thanks for your help (again)!

What about Corvette Ceramic Matrix Gray Metallic (looks almost off white) or Shark Gray or Watkins Glen Gray Metallic?

Value wise, will painting the car a non-original color hurt the value and/or is there a difference changing one factory color to another vs. a random color ? (i.e.. factory mission beige vs. mayfair vs. corvette shark gray) ?

Another color I just found was from 67' - Pontiac Silver Glaze Metallic....Thoughts ???


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## cij911 (Oct 25, 2017)

Well, I have postponed paint & interior until ALL mechanical items are complete. The motor and transmission are running great. I did install a set of gold Mr. Gasket springs (part #927 - thanks Lars!) on the distributor to bring in full advance earlier. I have also adjusted my timing down, closer to factory specifications - I am at 8* (full advance is ~34* by 3500 rpm).

At this point I am about to replace the front and rear suspension, along with installing the massive LS1 disc brakes (98-02 Camaro SS or Corvette). The wheels and tires I selected are the AR Torque Thrust II (polished) - 17x8 front (245/45/17) and 17x9.5 rear (275/40/17). Tire-rack guarantees the front will work, the rear will be tight (test fit this weekend).

Front suspension is aftermarket front control arms (upper & lower), Viking coilovers (550#) w/ heim joint, and 1" sway bar (stock ??); rear suspension is Spohn control arms with heim joint (del sphere) joints all around for optimal movement, Viking coilovers (150#) w/ heim joint, and no sway bar for now.

Brakes are from an LS1 and have new Powerstop discs and pads (~13" rotors IIRC) and am using an 8" dual brake booster / master cylinder combination. In addition I will be installing a CVR vacuum pump and Summit Racing vacuum canister (as my motor only pulls ~ 12" vacuum).

I can't wait to get the suspension and brakes installed and dialed in, as the car should drive like an entirely different animal. Wish me luck!


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## DIRT-GOAT (Jun 25, 2018)

cij911 said:


> Well, I have postponed paint & interior until ALL mechanical items are complete. The motor and transmission are running great. I did install a set of gold Mr. Gasket springs (part #927 - thanks Lars!) on the distributor to bring in full advance earlier. I have also adjusted my timing down, closer to factory specifications - I am at 8* (full advance is ~34* by 3500 rpm).
> 
> At this point I am about to replace the front and rear suspension, along with installing the massive LS1 disc brakes (98-02 Camaro SS or Corvette). The wheels and tires I selected are the AR Torque Thrust II (polished) - 17x8 front (245/45/17) and 17x9.5 rear (275/40/17). Tire-rack guarantees the front will work, the rear will be tight (test fit this weekend).
> 
> ...


Can't wait to see some pictures! Really enjoying your progress so far, keep it up!


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## cij911 (Oct 25, 2017)

I played a bit more with the timing and replaced the springs in the distributor with the softer (gold springs). Timing is coming in sooner and the engine seems to like it. Mr. Gasket part #927 in case you are interested. 

I have 02 bungs in both side of the headers that I use for a wideband and will post videos of my AFRs.

I also installed aftermarket oil pressure, water temperature, and a voltage gauge (Autometer Traditional line). The gauges all use electrical senders, so no fluid is piped into the cabin. I also wrapped the majority of the wires in the engine bay (except power and ground), with a protective sleeve. I think it helps make the engine bay look cleaner and most importantly protects the wires from the heat.

Finally, I installed my massive wheels & tires - 245/45/17 front & 274/40/17 rear on American Racing Torque Thrust II. The wheels are American Racing Torque Thrust II (polished) 17x8 (front) & 17x9.5 (rear). The tires are BFG GForce Sport C2. So far I like how the tires perform.

I will lower the front a bit when I install my new suspension, but plan on keeping the rear height as is. I am so happy they fit!


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## cij911 (Oct 25, 2017)

A few more pictures of the engine bay....

You can also see where I added the mechanical valve to close off the heater core. Without it, the cabin really heats up.


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## DIRT-GOAT (Jun 25, 2018)

Looking good !! 
Get that suspension on there!!


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## cij911 (Oct 25, 2017)

DIRT-GOAT said:


> Looking good !!
> Get that suspension on there!!


It is going on now.....A few more days and I will have pictures up....The rear brake conversion did not work, so for now I will keep rear drums. Front brakes are LS1 with 13" rotors .


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## cij911 (Oct 25, 2017)

OK a quick update (pictures to follow) on the suspension and brakes.

The installation was more challenging than originally planned and in the end. I replaced ALL brake lines (hard and soft); couldn't get the rear discs to work because my rear end is not a C clip type axle; rear upper trailing arm bushing turned out to be a 64, so the Del-Sphere bushing could not be used and I had to use a rubber bushing, and had ABS Power Brakes (Pedro) in Orange make two new and longer front brake lines for the LS1 front brakes to avoid any issues (stock lines were too short).

The powerboosted master cylinder (dual) is a 8" dual and fits nicely.

The front calipers are from a 98 - 2002 Camaro SS. The rotors and pads are Powerstop.

The rear drums were rebuilt with new cylinders (one was bad so I replaced both) and new shoes installed.

The front controls arms are inexpensive eBay https://www.ebay.com/itm/BRAND-NEW-...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

I went with Viking coilovers in the front & their 550# springs.

The front end / steering linkage was replaced with the CPP kit.

The rear suspension is Spohn tubular Delsphere bushings (except the pumpkin).

(I previously installed a 12.7:1 jeep steering box.)

Initial driving impressions - the car is a completely different animal. Previously, the suspension was too soft and body roll / movement was excessive. Additionally, the steering was sloppy and not close to precise and had poor road feel. Braking was downright scary, but I still managed to blast the car to high speeds  and find a way to stop. Now, the car actually feels like a modern vehicle. Ride quality is amazing (tight and composed), steering is new OEM level with not too much assist and very good road feel (not Porsche 911 or BMW M level, but close), and braking is just awesome. Yesterday I did a little fun run with the top down and found a wanker in a modified BMW. He was quite surprised that I had no trouble sticking with him in the turns and that the goat or "boat" as he called it stopped so well.

I still need to play around with the compression and rebound a little bit, but in quick summary this setup ROCKS!


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## Joe'sToy (Mar 9, 2012)

Nice, once you get the coilovers set to your liking, you will really start to enjoy it. I have mine set for medium compression and a little stiff on the recoil. The car corners fantastic, with no perceivable body roll and is really tight in turns.


Your doing great work, now drive and enjoy.


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## PontiacJim (Dec 29, 2012)

So how does that engine run? No stumbling or running out of fuel?


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## cij911 (Oct 25, 2017)

PontiacJim said:


> So how does that engine run? No stumbling or running out of fuel?


No fuel problems at this time (although I'd love to convert the setup to e85 so I could run 10.5+ compression ratio). The car seems to run quite well given its age / era / technology.

I will be posting a video shortly of my AFRs (cold idle, warm idle, and then a run through the gears).


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## cij911 (Oct 25, 2017)

Well today I began to address body & rust issues. At this point, I believe my only areas of concern are in the rear - trunk, lower quarter panel, and wheel wells. It appears someone did a hack job repairing rust before and cut out parts of the wheel well and welded in small panels. Additionally it appears there are several areas in the trunk on the drivers side, where the floor has pin holes or larger areas of rust.

I am disappointed as I don't know how to weld, so I am a bit concerned on talking this job myself.

My questions are as follows:

(1) For the rear wheel wells - what is the best way to fix the rusted areas? Do I need to remove the quarter panel to replace the wheel well? Should I just try to blend in a new wheel well and then spray with a rubberized paint (protect and mask)?

(2) The rear quarter appear to have a lot of bondo / putty on the lower section, but I don't believe 65' convertible full panel are available. Should I just cut out the metal and replace with patch work?

(3) The trunk looks good for the most part. What is the best way to replace the section that is rusted out - fiberglass, putty, or do I need to cut out the whole section and replace with a panel?

Since I am not skilled with welding, what would something like this cost to have done?

Thanks


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## cij911 (Oct 25, 2017)

So Ames sells the left hand side rear trunk panel and brace that would fix the rust area in the trunk. How do folks cut the old rusted trunk sections out to ease replacement?

Also, it looks like Goodmark makes the rear wheelhouse, but the pictures are limited. Does anyone have experience putting new wheelhouses in ?

Thanks


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## Cafr119 (Dec 9, 2017)

Nice project, love the 65 body styles !!! Look forward to watching your progress.


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## cij911 (Oct 25, 2017)

Ok here are a few pictures of the front suspension.

Some repeated information:

(1) 8" dual diaphragm brake booster, dual master cylinder 

(2) Front discs and calipers are from a 98-02 GM Camaro SS (a Corvette setup from the same year range will require no modification to the hubs).

(3) Viking coilovers with 550# springs

(4) Ebay upper and lower control arms ~$260

(5) CPP centerlink and steering links

(6) Factory sway bar with new bushings

(7) Rebuilt Jeep power steering box ~12.7:1

Essentially the entire front end is new and let me tell you it is just awesome to drive! The car is predictable and precise and turn in is very good. I am still playing with the compression and rebound settings, but very impressed so far with the ride quality.

The brakes are just phenomenal. Driving (the way I do), the old manual drum brakes did not give the level of safety I wanted / needed. These new brakes just work - no concern whatsoever. Drive as hard as you want and know the brakes will slow you down as needed with no fade.


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## cij911 (Oct 25, 2017)

Well I have an interesting story that I hope to get answers to....

While cleaning the rear quarter panel / wheelhouse, I found a TON of bolts / hardware / tools that must have been in the trunk and become lodged behind the quarter panel. The treasure hunt became REALLY INTERESTING when I found what appears to be an Asian (Thai or Vietnamese ??) coin. It made me wonder - was the previous owner a member of the armed services in Vietnam? What stories could he tell? What stories could this wonderful car tell?

I probably will never know, but I am restoring her in his honor....(For all you veterans out there, thank you.)


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## cij911 (Oct 25, 2017)

Here is just a quick sample of AFR videos....

Startup / idle was ~11:1 (rich) and I tightened the idle mixture screws and am now at ~14.x:1. People say that Pontiacs like to idle lean (not sure their definition of lean), but I know my Mercedes idles at ~20:1 AFR. The car idles nicely right now. Hot start was fine. I will want to test a bit more and maybe run the idle even leaner.

Cruising is ~ 13.x:1.

WOT pull second gear goes from ~13:1 to close to 14:1....(I'll need to do a few pulls with a friend so I drive and they film).


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## cij911 (Oct 25, 2017)

So I found a bit of rust in the trunk and the interior support post (drivers side).

Any recommendations on the best way to fix the post ? Thanks


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## cij911 (Oct 25, 2017)

Well I found another bit of fun - it looks like a mouse / mice were living in the area behind the lower quarter / footwell vents. An amazing sized nest.....

All clean now....


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## geeteeohguy (Feb 2, 2008)

Nice progress. And a vote for Mayfair Maize paint and keeping that neat gold interior. (although Mayfair Maize looks killer with a black interior, as well!)


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## cij911 (Oct 25, 2017)

Well the GTO is finally at the body shop.....Car will have a black interior (already purchased from AMES). I am leaning now towards Nightwatch Blue, Fontaine Blue, or Graphite Gray. (Car was originally Mission Beige and I just don't think the color does the car justice. The paint guy thinks I should do Mission Beige. Wife thinks I should go more bad ass.....)

I stripped the majority of the paint and now the body shop is sanding, fixing, and prepping the body. (I will try to go weekly to take pictures of the progress.)


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## cij911 (Oct 25, 2017)

Well I have finally decided on a paint color - color code E (Nightwatch Blue), which appears to be the same as a few other GM paints in the era. I'd also like to do a red pinstripe to match the calipers and add a bit of pop  ....(I saw this combo on the web and just loved it...)

The car is almost ready for primer.....I am told the car will be ready before Christmas ...


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## Joe'sToy (Mar 9, 2012)

I like that Nightwatch blue with the red pinstripe, sets off the redlines. That picture is how mine turned out, so I like the stance and tire combo a lot. If you go with that color, it's going to really pop.


For reference, here is my '65 from a show this summer.


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## BearGFR (Aug 25, 2008)

Joe'sToy said:


> I like that Nightwatch blue with the red pinstripe, sets off the redlines. That picture is how mine turned out, so I like the stance and tire combo a lot. If you go with that color, it's going to really pop.
> 
> 
> For reference, here is my '65 from a show this summer.


Beautiful!!!!


Bear


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## Cafr119 (Dec 9, 2017)

The 65s are sweet, your progress is looking great. Looking forward to seeing it painted, it’s going to look sweet


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## Joe'sToy (Mar 9, 2012)

BearGFR said:


> Beautiful!!!!
> 
> 
> Bear


Thanks Bear, coming from you, that means alot.

Joe.


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## geeteeohguy (Feb 2, 2008)

My Blue Charcoal '65 GTO had been re-painted Nightwatch Blue back in the '70's before I bought it. I loved that color. My favorite for a '65. I repainted it the correct Blue Charcoal in 1985, and it's been that way ever since. As much as I like 'born with' colors, you cannot go wrong with Nightwatch. The car will absolutely shine. The chrome will really stand out. Red pinstripe and redline tires, watch out!


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## cij911 (Oct 25, 2017)

Well my car is getting closer to completion....bodywork, color, and clear have been applied. Wet sanding and polishing next. Then interior.

Here are a few quick pictures of my car (Night Watch Blue). (No idea why the pictures are rotated, as they are fine on my Mac.) I love the color and am very please with the quality of the work and price.

RJ's Paint & Body in Garden Grove did the bodywork and paint. They do a lot (TON) of old cars and their prices are very fair and offer a 5 year warranty. Honestly nobody touched them from a quality / price perspective. I would HIGHLY recommend you call Robert about your project if you are in SoCal.

https://www.rjspaintandbody.com


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## cij911 (Oct 25, 2017)

Car is back from the interior shop and I am very happy. Attached are a few pictures of the process and end results. We put down two types of insulation and then the carpet. (I need to get floor mats if anyone has recommendations.)

Now I just have to install new window felt and door reveal, the HVAC plumbing, gaskets and trim, and dash. The weather has been crappy here in SoCal, so I have been somewhat limited with time to work on the car. I am hoping to have it complete within 30 days !!! YAY!


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## cij911 (Oct 25, 2017)

Here are a few shots taken tonight near the beach.....Almost done ... I just need to install the tilt column, new steering wheel, chrome trim, and install the dash.....


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## dan woodland (Jul 24, 2013)

Beautiful car! My favorite designs are the 64-68 model years. Loved the rebuild thread, you guys who do all that metal work are real troopers! Amazing how long it can take to restore these cars! Mine has been going for 6 years!

Enjoy your ride!! Melt some rubber!! :cheers:thumbsup:


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