# Oil pan on crossmember



## MaL (Jun 12, 2008)

I added the Milodon oil pan meant for a '66 389 and am using the Mity Mounts for engine mounts.

I have a sliver of light coming through were the oil pan is over the frame's crossmember; it's just way too close. The engine mounts are correctly spec'd so I'm thinking the oil pan is just slightly larger than an original.

I'm wondering what is the best fix for this. Some say to gently bend the pan inwards to make more room. This option involves dropping the pan out which is a bit frustrating on a newly built engine... but necessary.

Ideas?


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## geeteeohguy (Feb 2, 2008)

If you drop the pan, you'll be doing the same thing: hammering or bending it for clearance. If it were me, I'd take a body spoon, tire iron, or non-sharp-edged pry bar and slip it between the X member and the pan and pry it up a bit while it's in the car. You don't need a lot of clearance...just some.


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## Eric Animal (Oct 28, 2007)

:agree just don't bend it till it contacts the crank.......


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## MaL (Jun 12, 2008)

Haha, Eric. I'll go easy! Thanks for the tips, guys.


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## injn37 (Nov 16, 2008)

There really isn't much room there! Then add the brake line where it crosses thru and it really gets tight. Best thing is to ignore it until it becomes a problem!


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## 69Goatee (Aug 14, 2009)

If it were me , I would pull the engine and get it right. Anytime you pry on or push against the oil pan you run the risk of pinching the gasket or distorting the pan rail and causing a leak, then you will have to pull the engine.


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## allpawl66 (May 9, 2008)

You can add some washers between the engine mounts & engine Block to raise the engine , also if your trans mount is wrong or crossmember is bent up that will cause the pan to touch the frame . The aftermarket engine mounts are shorter in height & thinner metal than OEM , i have a NOS set that i use for comparison . I would not bend the pan . raise the engine a bit .


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## Eric Animal (Oct 28, 2007)

:agree Yes, technically bending the oil pan is not the right thing to do. If you change the motor mounts, or tranny mount you MIGHT change the driveshaft/pinion angle too. You probably should start with the correct height motor mounts......E P.S. Aftermarket oil pan could be the culprit also.


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## ALKYGTO (Mar 29, 2010)

I think I'd be worried about the clearance from the oil pump pickup to the bottom of the pan.


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## Eric Animal (Oct 28, 2007)

On my IAII block, the Canton oil pan comes about 1/16" from the front main caps.....don't think that dosen't make me nervous!!!! Probably gonna do some modifing there.....


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## geeteeohguy (Feb 2, 2008)

It seems that no matter what the aftermarket part, either the part, or collateral items must be re-engineered in order to work. That's why I prefer to stick to factory parts, even if they're used. I seriously doubt any oil pan rail leaks would be caused by spooning the pan 'in frame'....If the pan is that thin, it has no business being there. It would be possible to put a hole in the pan where you pry, but if you're careful, you should be ok. I would personally not shim any motor mounts, trans mounts, etc...as Eric said, that opens up a whole 'nuther can of worms, with driveshaft angles, U-joints hitting floorpans, vibrations, shifter clearance and adjustment, etc. You COULD R&R the engine and put a Pontiac pan back on it and be 'good to go"...Just my opinion, gents....


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## injn37 (Nov 16, 2008)

I started with a Milodon 7 qt pan and had to switch to a factory pan because of fit issues.

rich


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## ALKYGTO (Mar 29, 2010)

I notched and boxed my crossmember to clear mine. I wish I would have made the center removable so I could remove the pan with the motor in the car.


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