# Help, 72 Lemans no start



## Icefan71 (Apr 7, 2011)

I just bought a 72 Lemans 350 2bbl and it wont crank. The day I bought it, the seller and I tried to start it and it cranked real slow, but wouldn't start. It hasn't run in 2 years and hasn't been on the road in probably 10 years. Since I got it home it wont even crank now. I pulled the starter, took it to Autozone and had it tested and it was no good so I got a new one. I also replaced the battery, pos and neg battery cables, and put in a new point set. I cleaned all the connections at the starter, coil and the engine ground. I'm a real dummy when it comes to electrical stuff, so I'm not sure what to check electrically. Should I be looking at the ignition switch? If so what do I look for? The windshield leaked over the years so the fuse panel under the dash is badly corroded. But from what I can read on it, it looks like there are only accessory type stuff going thru it like radio, interior lights, etc. Is there another fuse panel somewhere else? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.


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## BearGFR (Aug 25, 2008)

You didn't say for sure, but even after the new starter, cables, and battery does it still "crank real slow."? If so, then I'd guess that the problem is that the engine is seized, or very nearly so. Drain the oil and have a look at it. If it's as ugly as I suspect it might be, then you might have a challenge on your hands. Let it drain at least over night before refilling with new oil. Don't forget to change out the filter too. If you know how to, and have the tools to pull the distributor and prime the oiling system, do so. Remember to mark the distributor before you remove it so you'll be able to reinstall it close to the same spot/timing later. Pull all the spark plugs and spray a pretty good bit of WD40 into all the cylinders. Let it sit for an hour or so --- then with the plugs still out, using a socket wrench on the bolt in the center of the harmonic balancer, try to turn the engine over a few times by hand (it spins clockwise as you're standing looking at the front of the motor). Pull it through 4-5 complete revolutions. Pay attention and see if it seems to get "easier" to turn or not. If after all that you can't turn it over by hand, then it's a good bet you've got some internal woes - probably a spun bearing.

Prime the oiling system again, then reinstall the distributor and spark plugs and give it a whirl. (If you've been working with it a lot already, you might need to re-charge your new battery to make sure it's fresh.) 

Bear


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## Icefan71 (Apr 7, 2011)

BearGFR, it still won't crank with the new starter and cables. The oil looked pretty good when I bought it and it has been changed along with the filter and I sprayed wd40 in all the cylinders a couple of weeks ago. Also, I am able to turn the crank with a ratchet.


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## Rukee (Feb 8, 2007)

Did you connect the wires correctly at the starter?? There are two small terminals, if you connect to the wrong one, it won't crank.
Is it an automatic? If so it may be the neutral safety switch, try moving the shifter a bit with the key in the start position. Or test the back of the key switch to verify you have starter voltage going to the starter. If you have starter power coming out of the ignition switch, test at the starter to verify it's getting there.


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## Icefan71 (Apr 7, 2011)

Rukee, I put the starter wire back on the same way they came off the old one. It is an automatic. I'll try moving the shifter while I start it. If it is the neutral safety switch, where is it located? Is it on the column? When you say test the back of the key switch, do you mean check for voltage while the key is in the start position? Also, I do recall checking the coil with the key on and it had voltage at the pos connection.


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## BearGFR (Aug 25, 2008)

Icefan71 said:


> BearGFR, it still won't crank with the new starter and cables. The oil looked pretty good when I bought it and it has been changed along with the filter and I sprayed wd40 in all the cylinders a couple of weeks ago. Also, I am able to turn the crank with a ratchet.


OK, I might have a terminology problem here, so let's be clear --- when you say "it won't crank" does that mean the starter doesn't do anyhing, or does it mean the engine turns over but just doesn't start?

If the starter isn't turning the engine at all, get yourself one of those pushbutton "remote starter swtiches" (just a pushbutton, wires, and a couple of aligator clips). Connect it between the two smaller terminals on the starter solenoid. If the starter still doesn't turn over and you're sure the battery is good, then either you've got a bad starter or a bad solenoid.

If the engine is turning over but not starting, then you've got two things to chase down: is it getting spark and is it getting fuel? To check for spark, pull a plug wire off one of the spark plugs, stick a screwdriver in the boot and position it so it's close to but not touching something metal, like the block, intake, etc. Turn it over - you should be able to hear and see spark jumping from the screwdriver to the engine.. No spark = suspect coil, points, plug wires. If you've got spark, then suspect fuel. Remove the air cleaner, look down through the carb as you open and close the throttle. You should see fuel squirting when you open it. No squirtee = suspect out of gas, bad fuel pump, clogged fuel line/filter, cracked rubber fuel line letting the pump suck air.

Bear


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## Icefan71 (Apr 7, 2011)

Sorry if I wasn't clear before. When I go to start it, nothing happens. No cranking, no clicking, nothing. The starter is brand new, but yeah I guess it could be bad. That wouldn't be the first time I bought a new part that was bad. I can go get a remote starter and try that. But I think I'd have to unbolt it to get at the terminals. I don't think I can reach them with the starter bolted in place. I'll have to wait till Monday, though. I'll be working all weekend. Ahh, the joys of shift work.


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## Cpldavis37 (Aug 20, 2009)

I am no expert, but years ago I worked at an auto parts store and I sold many rebuilt starters that were junked and people would only find out after they were installed. Its is also possible that the neutral safety switch has a bad concection. I am not sure, but my old 79 mustang would only start in neutral, but not in park. Make sure you get your battery on a charger it could be completely dead. 

Good luck


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## Icefan71 (Apr 7, 2011)

Ok the car will turn over fine now but I 'm not getting spark to the plugs. There is 12v at the coil. What do I look for now? I have power at the coil but its not getting to the plugs. I looked over the coil and distributor previously. All I could find was that the point set needed to be replaced which I did. The old one was burnt up.


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## Rukee (Feb 8, 2007)

Check your point gap. Sounds like either they are stuck open, or not opening at all.


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## Icefan71 (Apr 7, 2011)

What should the gap be? The instructions in the new points says to turn the adjuster (can't remember which direction but it is written on there)until the engine starts to run rough, then go back 1/2 a turn. If its not already apparent, I'm totally unfamiliar with points distributors, lol.


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## 1970 Lemans (Jul 25, 2009)

I believe the point gap should be 0.019 in, which corresponds to a 30 degree dwell angle.


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## SDGoat619 (Mar 21, 2011)

Icefan71 said:


> Ok the car will turn over fine now but I 'm not getting spark to the plugs. There is 12v at the coil. What do I look for now? I have power at the coil but its not getting to the plugs. I looked over the coil and distributor previously. All I could find was that the point set needed to be replaced which I did. The old one was burnt up.


Did the car turn over when you started the car in neutral. My 65 is doing the same thing started yesterday and today all I get is Click Click.......????:confused


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## Icefan71 (Apr 7, 2011)

The top of the coil where the plug to the distributor goes is corroded pretty bad. When I checked a few days ago, I looked at the wire and it looked good. But I didn't look in the top of the coil. So I guess I need to replace the coil. But now I'm back to square one. The engine wont turn over again and there is no clicking or anything. I rechecked the battery and cables. They are good. But now I'm only getting 7v at the coil where I had 12v yesterday. My guess is the wire from the starter to the coil is bad. I'll have to replace that too. I'll have to wait for another day, though. Life gets in the way.


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