# 1968 GTO Hardtop Coupe Resto-Mod



## 1968 GTO Resto-Mod (Nov 27, 2012)

My project is located in Fairbanks, Alaska.
Disassembly is complete. 
All major structural and drivetrain components are rebuilt and preparations are being made for reconstruction.
Please consider yourself invited to participate in advising me as I proceed.


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## 1968 GTO Resto-Mod (Nov 27, 2012)

*underbody (1-5)*

underbody (1-5)


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## Instg8ter (Sep 28, 2010)

first question going by your picture...WHY!! I am far from a purist but that looks like a clean relatively original car, please tell me it was a bondo bucket and needed to be taken apart and half of it thrown in a scrap heap.


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## 1968 GTO Resto-Mod (Nov 27, 2012)

*front suspension (1-3)*

front suspension (1-3)


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## 1968 GTO Resto-Mod (Nov 27, 2012)

*transmission (1-3)*

transmission (1-3)


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## 1968 GTO Resto-Mod (Nov 27, 2012)

*rear axle (1-4)*

rear axle (1-4)


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## 1968 GTO Resto-Mod (Nov 27, 2012)

*engine rebuild (1-5)*

engine rebuild (1-5)


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## 1968 GTO Resto-Mod (Nov 27, 2012)

*engine rebuild cont'd (6-10)*

engine rebuild cont'd (6-10)


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## 1968 GTO Resto-Mod (Nov 27, 2012)

*engine rebuild cont'd (11-15)*

engine rebuild cont'd (11-15)


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## 1968 GTO Resto-Mod (Nov 27, 2012)

*engine rebuild cont'd (16-20)*

engine rebuild cont'd (16-20)


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## 1968 GTO Resto-Mod (Nov 27, 2012)

*autobody (1-5)*

autobody (1-5)


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## 1968 GTO Resto-Mod (Nov 27, 2012)

*autobody (6-10)*

left front fender


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## 1968 GTO Resto-Mod (Nov 27, 2012)

*autobody (11-15)*

right front fender


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## 1968 GTO Resto-Mod (Nov 27, 2012)

*autobody (16-20)*

autobody (16-20)


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## 1968 GTO Resto-Mod (Nov 27, 2012)

*autobody (21-25)*

autobody (21-25)


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## Joe'sToy (Mar 9, 2012)

Great work man, found your thread, now subscribed. Keep up the good work. :cheers


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## BearGFR (Aug 25, 2008)

Good work! Keep 'em coming.

Bear


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## 1968 GTO Resto-Mod (Nov 27, 2012)

*autobody (26-30)*

autobody (26-30)


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## 1968 GTO Resto-Mod (Nov 27, 2012)

well, so far everything is coming along very well, and the GTO that spent so many years as a beat up old rust bucket is finally starting to take on a new look!
i'll be taking a short break from the project for the next couple months, so i won't have anything to add to this thread until april or may. 
thank you very much for your interest!


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## FlambeauHO (Nov 24, 2011)

Looking great! Can't wait to see some color on her. Enjoy the well deserved break from the car! :beer:


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## 68Resto-mod (Nov 10, 2009)

Awesome dude! My project was in similar shape as yours. Body is on and doing fabrication/wiring in the engine compartment now. Here are picture links to the earlier phases of restoration. Been at it for 5 years.

https://picasaweb.google.com/lancen...authkey=Gv1sRgCKCCoeLKopbxlgE&feat=directlink

https://picasaweb.google.com/lancen...authkey=Gv1sRgCP30yt_tj_iV9QE&feat=directlink

https://picasaweb.google.com/lancendar/RestorationPhase4?authuser=0&feat=directlink

https://picasaweb.google.com/lancen...authkey=Gv1sRgCPeA4o7E2ef3tQE&feat=directlink

BTW: I like your forum name.


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## Joe'sToy (Mar 9, 2012)

68Resto-mod said:


> Awesome dude! My project was in similar shape as yours. Body is on and doing fabrication/wiring in the engine compartment now. Here are picture links to the earlier phases of restoration. Been at it for 5 years.
> 
> https://picasaweb.google.com/lancen...authkey=Gv1sRgCKCCoeLKopbxlgE&feat=directlink
> 
> ...


Another nice resto, I applaud you sir for staying with it. Will keep looking for your next post. :cheers


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## FlambeauHO (Nov 24, 2011)

68Resto-mod said:


> Awesome dude! My project was in similar shape as yours. Body is on and doing fabrication/wiring in the engine compartment now. Here are picture links to the earlier phases of restoration. Been at it for 5 years.
> 
> https://picasaweb.google.com/lancen...authkey=Gv1sRgCKCCoeLKopbxlgE&feat=directlink
> 
> ...


So is color going on after the hiatus? All the album pics are awesome!


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## 1968 GTO Resto-Mod (Nov 27, 2012)

*back story*

when my parents met in felton, california in 1977 this was the car my mother was driving.


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## 1968 GTO Resto-Mod (Nov 27, 2012)

*back story*

i was born in 1979 in south lake tahoe.
the black goat was our daily driver.


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## 1968 GTO Resto-Mod (Nov 27, 2012)

*back story*

one late night on the highway my mother narrowly avoided a direct head-on collision with a drunk driver who crossed centerline coming over the crest of a vertical curve in the grade.


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## 1968 GTO Resto-Mod (Nov 27, 2012)

*back story*

the only thing salvaged from the wreck was the muncie 4 speed manual transmission and the hurst shifter seen in this photograph.


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## 1968 GTO Resto-Mod (Nov 27, 2012)

*back story*

they found another goat not too long after that.
we drove it up the alcan highway when my father moved our family to alaska in 1982.


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## 1968 GTO Resto-Mod (Nov 27, 2012)

*back story*

my father fired that car up every spring so we could rip around town in it during the summer.
we always talked about fixing it up, but dad never thought he would have the time or money.


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## 1968 GTO Resto-Mod (Nov 27, 2012)

*back story*

my father died in 1998.
i was 19 years old.


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## 1968 GTO Resto-Mod (Nov 27, 2012)

*back story*

the goat didn't get too much attention in the years after my father's death.


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## 1968 GTO Resto-Mod (Nov 27, 2012)

*back story*

when i look at this photograph it's easy for me to understand why this project is so important to me now.


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## FlambeauHO (Nov 24, 2011)

What awesome pics!! Talk about sentimental value! :beer:


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## dan woodland (Jul 24, 2013)

Great story. How is going now?


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## 1968 GTO Resto-Mod (Nov 27, 2012)

*drivetrain*

...trying to piece together components for the drivetrain, 
especially those required for conversion to muncie 4-speed manual transmission. 
thankfully the crankshaft was machined to accept a pilot bearing!

haven't touched the driveshaft yet because i want to get the suspension sitting down 
somewhere near ride height so i can measure to see if it will need to be lengthened/shortened. 
also, the new slip yoke allows for about 1.25" of play in either direction of that dimension, 
so i really hope i can make it work without cutting the driveshaft!


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## 1968 GTO Resto-Mod (Nov 27, 2012)

*suspension*

ordered lots of parts last month: 

SPC tubular upper and lower A-arms
Currie upper and lower rear control arms
Varishock QS-1 shocks (front and rear)
SPC springs (front and rear)
Hellwig sway bars (front and rear) 
Baer disc brake conversion kits for front (14" rotors/6 piston caliper) and rear (13" rotors/4 piston caliper)


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## 1968 GTO Resto-Mod (Nov 27, 2012)

*spindles*

original spindles and steering arms appear to be in reasonably good condition, 
so the plan as of right now is to re-install them along with the SPC upgrades.


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## 1968 GTO Resto-Mod (Nov 27, 2012)

*fuel tank*

surface rust on the fuel tank wasn't too bad so i got it cleaned up as best i could so i can re-install 
(shipping costs are a killer in alaska so i'm trying to re-use anything that's in reasonably good condition). 
got the por15 kit for the inside and on the outside i got two coats of self-etching zinc primer under two coats of epoxy primer.
this tank sure has been a lot of work but i'm just hoping that a little bit of extra elbow grease right now will save me a some cash...


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## 1968 GTO Resto-Mod (Nov 27, 2012)

also thinking about what to do about the exhaust system, fuel and brake lines, transmission crossmember, and wheel/tire package.
anyway, i've got some time off from work right now so i'm trying to grind on this project as much as i can... 
waiting for delivery of parts and spending a lot of time online searching for other items required to get the suspension bolted together.


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## Instg8ter (Sep 28, 2010)

Great story, been a dream for many of us to own one of these cars and fix it up ourselves but time, life and money often get in the way. Your dads smiling down seeing his old girl get a new lease on life, and be sure he'll be with you on the first drive...look forward to seeing your progress. Scoring parts (on a budget) was one of the funnest parts of the build for me. Told myself if i could not get what i wanted for at least 30% off retail i did'nt need it until i could.


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## 1968 GTO Resto-Mod (Nov 27, 2012)

*thanks!*

...by the way, thank you so much for your interest! 
i'm trying to keep busy with the issues that are front-and-center right now, but please don't hesitate to let me know if there are things i'm overlooking or unaware of.

i'm a first-time builder so naturally i expect some hidden surprises!

thanks again, and happy new year!


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## Instg8ter (Sep 28, 2010)

if yoru switching over from auto make sure you get a pilot bearing and press it in the crank, don't ask how i know...


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## 68Resto-mod (Nov 10, 2009)

KEEP ON PUSHING MAN!!! I love the direction you are taking (hmmm, I wonder why?) I got lazy and haven’t posted any new pictures for my 68 project. Must get off my butt and update pictures. 

I will be going to paint soon. Can't wait. Feel free to PM me with any questions. I have been over every nut-n-bolt and have made plenty of mistakes. I have re-built Muncie, Quadrajet, stock distributor, shift linkage, all except engine. It was built by Jim Lehart (Google him). Love to help if I can.

Lance


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## 67GTOCoop (Jan 9, 2014)

Awesome story and its great that you are able to start a build now! My dad bought a '67 GTO when he came home from Vietnam in 71. He later sold it to his brother who sold it to his nephew who let it sit and do nothing for years. All I ever heard my dad say about it was that he never should of sold it and how much he regretted that it had become the junk it was. Two summers ago after some heavy persuading on my part to my uncle, I got him to sell me the old Goat. I then gave it to my dad on his 63rd bday. We are a bit further along in our resto mod. I need to post some photos on here sometime.

Keep up the great work! Looking forward to seeing the progress


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## 1968 GTO Resto-Mod (Nov 27, 2012)

*front suspension*

started playing with the A-arms the other day.
just trying to get an idea what exactly it's going to take to get this bolted together...


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## 1968 GTO Resto-Mod (Nov 27, 2012)

*rear axle shafts*

trying to make sure the original axle shafts are in reasonably good condition before committing to reinstall.
i have already replaced bearings and races, and applied primer coat, as you can see in the photograph.
both shafts are straight, splines look good, and there doesn't appear to be any outwardly visible signs of wear or damage.
what else should i be looking for? 
are there any significant drawbacks to using the original axle shafts?


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## BearGFR (Aug 25, 2008)

If you're making a lot of power, you'll eat the rear-end before you have to worry about the axles. Make sure the splines are straight and don't appear to have any "twist" to them, make sure the wheel studs are good and tight, freshen the bearings, etc.

Bear


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## 1968 GTO Resto-Mod (Nov 27, 2012)

also been making more progress sealing up the fuel tank.
applied two coats of self-etching zinc primer, then two coats of epoxy primer under a paintable rubberized undercoating.
still thinking about final finish...
silver could look nice, but i feel like black might help the tank 'disappear' under there and at the same time be a more practical choice since the car will be a driver.
your thoughts???
are there any particular requirements to finishing the outside of a steel gas tank that i might be missing?


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## Instg8ter (Sep 28, 2010)

Why hide all the fine work you've done. I used a platinum silver to give it a metal look yet still protect it, its holding up well after three seasons on the road. I believe they were raw steel stock but my car had been thoroughly undercoated when purchased so i had it dipped and stripped.


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## 1968 GTO Resto-Mod (Nov 27, 2012)

*steering linkage*

started bolting the steering linkage together.
these are new moog parts- centerlink, idler arm and inner/outer tie rod ends and sleeves along with the original steering arms.


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## 1968 GTO Resto-Mod (Nov 27, 2012)

*power steering*

the original power steering gearbox appears to be in reasonably good condition.
it worked fine and did not leak when i shut the car down for disassembly, so i see no reason to break it open right now.
i'll remove the rag joint when i decide what to do about the steering column and shaft.

i have read about upgrading the internals for a faster ratio, but no one here in town does this work and i do not want to send it off in the mail.
for now i'll just go with the original equipment and keep it in mind for an upgrade later on down the line... once the car is back on the road.
what do you think?
is this a sensible approach given the circumstances?
thanks for your thoughts!


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## 1968 GTO Resto-Mod (Nov 27, 2012)

*steering linkage*

tie rods and steering arms are in place...


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## 1968 GTO Resto-Mod (Nov 27, 2012)

trimmed down the front gussets on the upper A-arm mounts to eliminate sharp contact while front suspension is drooping...


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## 1968 GTO Resto-Mod (Nov 27, 2012)

*brake/fuel lines*

pulling the old lines out of cold storage... these are the really fun parts of building a car in alaska in the winter!


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## 1968 GTO Resto-Mod (Nov 27, 2012)

*brake/fuel lines*

brake and fuel lines are eligible for retirement... not planning to re-use any of it.
i'll probably just get some straight tubing and a bending tool and see what i can do with it.


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## Instg8ter (Sep 28, 2010)

lookin good


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## 1968 GTO Resto-Mod (Nov 27, 2012)

*power steering*

the power steering pump and gearbox are both on their way to lee mfg. in california for the 12:1 upgrade. 
it looks like the whole operation, including shipping, will cost about $1000. 
thanks for the solid advice guys.
i really appreciate it.


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## 1968 GTO Resto-Mod (Nov 27, 2012)

*anti-sway bars*

hellwig front and rear anti-sway bars


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## 1968 GTO Resto-Mod (Nov 27, 2012)

*rear control arms*

started looking at the rear end today... currie currectrac upper and lower control arms.


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## 1968 GTO Resto-Mod (Nov 27, 2012)

*rear suspension*

getting the rear springs in place...


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## 1968 GTO Resto-Mod (Nov 27, 2012)

*rear suspension*

lower control arms are in place...


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## 1968 GTO Resto-Mod (Nov 27, 2012)

*rear anti-sway bar*

hellwig adjustable rear anti-sway bar installed.
greased everything real well during assembly.
won't torque down the fastening hardware until the full weight of the car is sitting on the suspension.


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## 1968 GTO Resto-Mod (Nov 27, 2012)

*motor mounts*

here is the original motor mounting equipment.
i had always planned to just replace these components with high-quality aftermarket parts, but they actually seem to be in pretty good shape. 
these mounts only traveled about 120,000 miles before disassembly and as far as i know the motor was never really shaken up too much.
i bought a set of engine mounts from napa because they were in stock and only $8 each, but they looked like poor quality korean-made tin foil toys, so i returned them.
butler performance offers a pair of polyurethane/stainless steel interlocking engine mounts for about $150.
does it make sense to re-use the original mounting system, or should i upgrade to the butler product?
i would really appreciate any thoughts you have on this one guys...
thanks!


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## 1968 GTO Resto-Mod (Nov 27, 2012)

*power steering gearbox*

got the power steering pump and gearbox back from lee manufacturing this week.
i'm so glad i decided to do this now... the parts look good as new, the turnaround time was plenty quick, and when all was said and done it cost about $300 less than i had originally calculated!


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## 1968 GTO Resto-Mod (Nov 27, 2012)

*rear control arm braces*

there were no rear control arm braces on this car when i disassembled it.
the product i have installed is manufactured by bmr suspension.


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## 1968 GTO Resto-Mod (Nov 27, 2012)

*front brakes*

the brake kits were delivered this week!
this is baer's pro plus front brake system with 6 piston calipers and 14" rotors.


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## 1968 GTO Resto-Mod (Nov 27, 2012)

*shocks*

oh yeah, and just in case you were wondering...
it's chassisworks vari-shock QS1 single adjustable shocks in front and rear.


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## ALKYGTO (Mar 29, 2010)

Looking Great! :thumbsup:

I've enjoyed following your thread, nice build and I'm sure your Dad would be proud.


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## 1968 GTO Resto-Mod (Nov 27, 2012)

*thanks!*



ALKYGTO said:


> Looking Great! :thumbsup:
> 
> I've enjoyed following your thread, nice build and I'm sure your Dad would be proud.


thanks, ALKY!
i really appreciate that you have been following my progress!


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## 1968 GTO Resto-Mod (Nov 27, 2012)

*axle shafts*

the flanges on the rear axle shafts were almost 6.5" in diameter, but baer specs a max dimension of 5.9" for proper fit within the rotor.
the machinist turned them down with his lathe yesterday.
it looks to me like there is enough material behind the wheel studs for this to work alright, but i'm certainly not an expert.
does anyone have any input on this one?
thanks so much for your help.
danny


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## 1968 GTO Resto-Mod (Nov 27, 2012)

*rear brakes*

here are a few photos of the rear brake install...


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## 1968 GTO Resto-Mod (Nov 27, 2012)

*waterpump*

this flowkooler high flow waterpump #1622


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## 1968 GTO Resto-Mod (Nov 27, 2012)

*engine paint*

pontiac blue


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## 1968 GTO Resto-Mod (Nov 27, 2012)

*engine paint*

today i pulled the masking off.


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## Orion88 (Apr 24, 2012)

Looking very nice! Just a heads up though, I've heard from a few people that aftermarket Chrome engine accessories such as valve covers, oil pans, transmission pans, etc, have a tendency to leak. I guess the chrome plating creates an uneven surface where the gasket goes, allowing oil to seep through.


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## 1968 GTO Resto-Mod (Nov 27, 2012)

*thanks for your help!*



Orion88 said:


> Looking very nice! Just a heads up though, I've heard from a few people that aftermarket Chrome engine accessories such as valve covers, oil pans, transmission pans, etc, have a tendency to leak. I guess the chrome plating creates an uneven surface where the gasket goes, allowing oil to seep through.


thanks so much for your input!
all mating surfaces were carefully cleaned and both sides of all gaskets were thoroughly covered with permatex black RTV silicone during assembly.
yeah, leaks can happen... i'll see eventually.
i appreciate the thought. thanks!
danny


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## 1968 GTO Resto-Mod (Nov 27, 2012)

happy birthday!


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## 1968 GTO Resto-Mod (Nov 27, 2012)

*headers*

installed headers yesterday.
this product is manufactured by doug thorley.
3 primaries, 3" collector, ceramic coated, 3/8" flange, good fit, etc...


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## 1968 GTO Resto-Mod (Nov 27, 2012)

*headers*

here are a few photos of the install.
thanks for your interest!
danny


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## 1968 GTO Resto-Mod (Nov 27, 2012)

*brake plumbing*

trying to get the brake plumbing finished.
this is 3/16" DOT rated nickel brake line tubing that i can shape easily by hand or with a simple bending tool.


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## jmt455 (Mar 26, 2012)

That's going to be one seriously nice ride.
Great work.


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## 1968 GTO Resto-Mod (Nov 27, 2012)

*thanks!!!*



jmt455 said:


> That's going to be one seriously nice ride.
> Great work.


yeah man! i really do hope so!
thanks!!!
danny


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## 1968 GTO Resto-Mod (Nov 27, 2012)

*serpentine conversion*

no offense to the purists, but i am really hoping i can get this idea to work.
these are all 6 groove serpentine pulleys.
i still need a plan for including an auto tensioner and/or idler pulley.
i still need a plan for spacing out all pulleys to alignment.
do any of you guys have experience with "do-it-yourself" serpentine conversion systems on these old pontiac motors?
if so, i would be very thankful for your input.
also, where else might i look to find information about this kind of modification?

of course, i still have all the original v-belt pulleys so if this serpentine conversion idea doesn't work out i can just reinstall the original pulley system.
please feel free to share your thoughts... thanks!
danny


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## Alaska GTO (Jun 20, 2008)

Nice build I will have to stop buy a take a look if you don't mind, Im up there every 6 months be up there in june.


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## 1968 GTO Resto-Mod (Nov 27, 2012)

*serpentine conversion*

all the accessory pulleys are now aligned.
i used an assortment of crude washers and sleeves to get them into place.
from here i can calculate dimensions and order one-piece aluminum spacers from aluminumspacers.com... 
the water pump pulley lined up to the crank pulley with 3/16" of spacing behind it, the alternator needed about 11/32" of spacing and the power steering pump required about 15/32" of spacing.
hopefully, nothing got pushed too far forward.

now i need to determine where the belt tensioner pulley will have to go, and how i might have to shape a bracket to mount it.
i have found various resources online which cover the basics behind this kind of modification. 
there seem to be various opinions about whether or not power gains are possible with a serpentine conversion, but to be straight up... i'm just hoping i'll never have to fiddle with the v-belts again.
please feel free to chime in with your comments at any time.
thanks for your interest!
danny


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## 1968 GTO Resto-Mod (Nov 27, 2012)

*transmission*

this is the muncie m21 4-speed transmission from my mother's black goat.
it was rebuilt by young's gear and drivelines of fairbanks.
the shifter is in south carolina right now being refurbished by Hurst.
this is really just mock up stage: i haven't yet installed the pilot bearing, flywheel, clutch or pressure plate.
the hydraulic throw out bearing and clutch master cylinder upgrade kit from mcleod should be here this week.
always moving forward...
thanks for your interest!
danny


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## 1968 GTO Resto-Mod (Nov 27, 2012)

*clearance*

the doug thorley headers extend about 1.5" below the oil pan, which puts them just below the crossmember- maybe half an inch.
i do not intend to hug the ground too close with this car.
the lowering springs i installed in the front suspension came with a pair of SPC spacers for either side which can be placed under the spring seat to adjust the height of the front suspension. 
they are not installed at this time, but they're on-hand if i need to bring the ride up a little bit in the front.
the alignment of the header collector outlets with the transmission crossmember looks promising.
thanks for checking in on my progress!
please feel free to share a comment if you have one!
thanks,
danny


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## PontiacJim (Dec 29, 2012)

I made a set of pipes to fit my car, and the 3" dia put then real close to the pan. As the car warmed up and the pipes got hotter, my oil pressure would drop. Now I believe I had other problems with my oil pressure- which finally went to 0 one day - but I was thinking that the heat from the pipes, being as close to the pan as they were, were transferring some of that heat right onto the oil pan/oil. Rebuilding the car/engine, and I am considering using some type of heat shield to minimize the heat transfer from the headers (yet to be purchased/installed) to the oil pan/oil. I was thinking of using some form of flat aluminum stock, or maybe even some thin aluminum diamond plate, and affixing it to the header as my heat shield. They sell high heat header wrap, but I don't like the way it looks. (A Pontiac heat shield for your starter is also a suggestion - can be purchased aftermarket)

Just a suggestion since it might be something to consider and easy enough to fabricate while you have easy access to that area. I am thinking even a solution as simple as cutting some slots in the aluminum sheet as two points (a front attachment and rear attachment) to insert stainless steel hose clamps that would go around one of the header tubes? Not sure about this as I am no where even close at this point. Still disassembling the car and gathering parts.


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## 1968 GTO Resto-Mod (Nov 27, 2012)

*thanks!*



PontiacJim said:


> I made a set of pipes to fit my car, and the 3" dia put then real close to the pan. As the car warmed up and the pipes got hotter, my oil pressure would drop. Now I believe I had other problems with my oil pressure- which finally went to 0 one day - but I was thinking that the heat from the pipes, being as close to the pan as they were, were transferring some of that heat right onto the oil pan/oil. Rebuilding the car/engine, and I am considering using some type of heat shield to minimize the heat transfer from the headers (yet to be purchased/installed) to the oil pan/oil. I was thinking of using some form of flat aluminum stock, or maybe even some thin aluminum diamond plate, and affixing it to the header as my heat shield. They sell high heat header wrap, but I don't like the way it looks. (A Pontiac heat shield for your starter is also a suggestion - can be purchased aftermarket)
> 
> Just a suggestion since it might be something to consider and easy enough to fabricate while you have easy access to that area. I am thinking even a solution as simple as cutting some slots in the aluminum sheet as two points (a front attachment and rear attachment) to insert stainless steel hose clamps that would go around one of the header tubes? Not sure about this as I am no where even close at this point. Still disassembling the car and gathering parts.


thanks for sharing your thoughts, Pontiac Jim!
one change i made early on when considering this issue was to remove the disc brake proportioning valve from it's mounting location on the driver's side frame rail where it was only about 1" from the header primary tube.
when i began the search for headers i was aware that heat transfer and fitment issues would be a significant concern, so i did a lot of research and talked to several experts. 
the doug thorley headers were designed with these issues in mind for the old school pontiac v8 400, and there appears to be ample clearance for mini-starter and oil filter.
one of the ideas behind using a product with 3 primary tubes rather than 4 was to minimize the amount of thermal mass in the headers which transfers heat to surrounding components.
that being said, it is possible that i could still end up dealing with heat transfer issues. of course i won't know until the car is operational, so for now i'll just carry on with the plan and hope for the best. 
any other thoughts out there? please feel free to share...
thanks a lot for your input!
danny


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## 1968 GTO Resto-Mod (Nov 27, 2012)

*rear shocks*

so glad to finally get my hands on these...
i'm almost finished assembling the rear suspension!


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## 1968 GTO Resto-Mod (Nov 27, 2012)

*mcleod clutch kit*

these look like good quality parts.
i'm not sure at this point that it will fit my application, but when i asked about the return policy i was told "if it doesn't fit just send it back."


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## 1968 GTO Resto-Mod (Nov 27, 2012)

*robbmc mini starter*

this looks like a very high quality unit with the added bonus that the solenoid is adjustable through 360 degrees on the housing, so i can put it wherever i want.
these guys also get big props for supplying a very good set of installation instructions.


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## 1968 GTO Resto-Mod (Nov 27, 2012)

*driveline*

finally got the driveline all put together for good, starting with the pilot bearing...









this is mcleod's neutrally balanced steel flywheel.
the ring gear has 168 teeth.
it weighs about 30 pounds.
i ordered the mounting bolts to go along with it but they're 7/16" and my crank is machined for 1/2" fine threads. 
thankfully, the holes in the flywheel were large enough to accept the 1/2" grade 8 bolts i bought at the hardware store.
i used a star washer under each bolt, applied a good amount of blue thread locker, and torqued them down to 85 ft/lbs using the conventional criss-cross pattern for a six-bolt flywheel.
after bolting it up i cleaned the friction surface thoroughly with dupont low temperature surface cleaner. 









this is mcleod's 'street pro' clutch and pressure plate kit.
my bellhousing measures 6.25" so this setup should work fine with the bolt on hydraulic throw out bearing.


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## 1968 GTO Resto-Mod (Nov 27, 2012)

*mcleod hydraulic throw out bearing*

in order to use this hydraulic throw out bearing with the muncie, the diameter of the slider nut on the input shaft needed to be reduced from 2.00" to 1.80"
it was pretty easy to do that with my table mounted grinding wheel.


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## 1968 GTO Resto-Mod (Nov 27, 2012)

got the driveshaft cleaned up with the pneumatic wire brush. 
i really like the way this polished steel looks with a little clear coat on top of it.









installed fresh u-joints and a replacement slip yoke for the muncie...









this flowmaster exhaust kit has been very easy to work with.
the mandrel bent stainless tubing appears to be very good quality and it all looks like it's going to fit my application pretty well.















it's really exciting to see this all coming together!









thanks for having a look at my work!
danny


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## Indecision (Oct 24, 2010)

Nice project... I'd love to have my car half the nice at some point.


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## 1968 GTO Resto-Mod (Nov 27, 2012)

*thanks!!!*



Indecision said:


> Nice project... I'd love to have my car half the nice at some point.


thank you so much for your interest in this project!
danny


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## 1968 GTO Resto-Mod (Nov 27, 2012)

*fuel system*

this is aluminum fuel line tubing.
i ordered the 1/4" line for the vapor return from speedway motors and the 1/2" line from jegs.
these products are very easy to shape by hand, but avoid excessive re-bending as this results in work-hardening of the material. 









robbmc 550 hp rated mechanical fuel pump installed.









here's what the fuel line routing looks like on it's way to the rear end.
the cylinder clamped to the frame rail is a 100 micron fuel filter also from robbmc.









thanks for having a look at my project!
danny


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## Orion88 (Apr 24, 2012)

Man, that is some serious progress!! Looks fantastic!


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## 1968 GTO Resto-Mod (Nov 27, 2012)

*temporary rollers*

found these in town for cheap.
it's a square setup of used 18x8 momo gtr with 235/40 rubber.









the plan is to use these only temporarily until i can get measurements at final ride height for the custom wheel/tire package.









thanks a lot for your interest!
danny


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## Indecision (Oct 24, 2010)

I don't know if I could stomach those wheels on my car even temporarily...


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## 1968 GTO Resto-Mod (Nov 27, 2012)

Indecision said:


> I don't know if I could stomach those wheels on my car even temporarily...


hahaha!
good thing it's not yours then, eh?
i've read enough stories about poor fitment resulting from guesswork to know i don't want to go that route...
what would you do?
leave it on jackstands??
what is the best way to do this without spending thousands of dollars on something you can't be sure will fit properly???
i would be curious what you think.
thanks for sharing your thoughts!
danny


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## Indecision (Oct 24, 2010)

I think that came across more harsh and less tongue in cheek than I intended.

But to seriously answer your question. I would've put jack stands under the suspension so it was compressed with the weight of the car, then everything else is just measurements from the hub... hub to caliper, hub to inner fender/suspension, hub to outer fender. Figure out what wheel size you want and the appropriate backspacing. It's not really guesswork when you take measurements. It's only guesswork when you take shots in the dark and order some random size and hope it fits.

This may help


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## 1968 GTO Resto-Mod (Nov 27, 2012)

Indecision said:


> I think that came across more harsh and less tongue in cheek than I intended.
> 
> But to seriously answer your question. I would've put jack stands under the suspension so it was compressed with the weight of the car, then everything else is just measurements from the hub... hub to caliper, hub to inner fender/suspension, hub to outer fender. Figure out what wheel size you want and the appropriate backspacing. It's not really guesswork when you take measurements. It's only guesswork when you take shots in the dark and order some random size and hope it fits.
> 
> ...











thanks for your input!
i intend to make the appropriate measurements after the body is mounted back on the frame and once final ride weight and height have been established.
the temporary rollers get me on the ground until then.
danny


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## Indecision (Oct 24, 2010)

I can't take credit for this, Bear posted it in another thread... you learn something new everyday.

Percy's 01201 Percy's WheelRite Wheel Fitment Tool - Free Shipping on All Orders @ JEGS


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## 1968 GTO Resto-Mod (Nov 27, 2012)




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## 1968 GTO Resto-Mod (Nov 27, 2012)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8ZJgJWTN2Ak

:thumbsup:


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## dan woodland (Jul 24, 2013)

Great work!!! I'm looking forward to seeing her done and melting rubber off the wheels!

Man, I wish I had half as many friends to help me. :lol:


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## 1968 GTO Resto-Mod (Nov 27, 2012)

*artistic rendering*


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## 1968 GTO Resto-Mod (Nov 27, 2012)

*update*

one of the most important lessons i've had to learn throughout this entire process is something most of you gentlemen are probably already familiar with:
restoring a car is one project and finding a way to pay for it is something completely different.
consequently, i have been very busy with work this season and have had precious little time to devote to the goat.

i'm very excited about how far this car has come and i have been thinking a lot lately about how to continue the project. 
as far as recent progress is concerned, i do have a few pieces of good news to report at this time...

i believe i've solved the tensioner pulley puzzle. 
after countless hours of sorting through pulleys at parts stores and salvage yards, i finally found a tensioner pulley that might work for the serpentine accessory drive.











the dimension between the two mounting holes in the tensioner is exactly the same as the dimension between the threaded stud on the timing cover and the bolt at the alternator/power steering pump bracket!











also, after months of screening ebay and other online sources i finally found a spread bore, four barrel, rochester quadrajet carburetor for 1968 pontiac manual transmission application.











huge credit to cliff ruggles and his team at cliff's high performance for their effort in remanufacturing this quadrajet.
many sources claim no one has more skill and knowledge with the rochester quadrajet than cliff ruggles, so i am very fortunate i was able to coordinate with him on this project.










702 => 1960's
8 => 1968
2 => quadrajet (4 bbl) federal standards
6 => pontiac
3 => manual transmission

thanks for your interest in this project.
i will update with further developments as progress continues.
danny


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## 1968 GTO Resto-Mod (Nov 27, 2012)

*update*

recently made some progress getting the serpentine accessory drive assembled.


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## 1968 GTO Resto-Mod (Nov 27, 2012)

the tensioner was pulled off a shelf at my local NAPA parts store.
getting everything to line up properly didn't happen without a little cutting and grinding.
the threaded stud at timing cover was shortened 0.75" then a 1.00" long coupling nut threaded onto it allowed thru-bolt for the lower mounting point of tensioner. 









upper mounting point of tensioner at upper power steering bracket thru-bolt.
at this location i had to push the tensioner back into the alternator bracket to line up with the other pulleys.

















underside of lower alternator mount needed to be slotted to align mounting points.









power steering bracket was shaved to fit tensioner housing.









thanks for your interest!
danny


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## 1968 GTO Resto-Mod (Nov 27, 2012)

it seems like i can spiff-up the steering column with replacement bearings, bushings, etc. from inline tube and ames. 
i'll just remove the column shift handle, clean it all up, replace worn or un-useable equipment as necessary, paint it and re-install.
and yes, as you can tell from the original paint on the steering column, the stock interior color of this vehicle was turquoise. someone painted black over it before my parents got the car.









the blower motor box cleaned up pretty nice and i found a replacement blower motor in town. 
the heater box which mounts to the inside of the firewall will need to be replaced because at some point my father modified it to install a larger heater core.









i knew i was going to have to cut a hole in the floor at some point... and the other day i finally got down to figuring it out. 
also, i got all the shifting rods and the speedo cable installed with no major headaches. 









i also recently began installation of the msd pro billet distributor and the rest of the ignition system.









thanks for having a look at my work!
danny


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## 1968 GTO Resto-Mod (Nov 27, 2012)

starting to get an idea of what it will take to get the clutch master cylinder in place. 
with the arrangement shown in the photograph the rod lines up with the pivot on the pedal very well, but i needed to cut a hole in the firewall to make it work.









got the pedals hanging for a look at what i need to do there. 
of course the brake pedal is for automatic transmission application. 
i would like to use a replacement from manual transmission application, so i'm looking around online for one.









and lots of detailing...

























also recently placed an order with ames for many things i know i need right now to move forward... 
danny


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## 1968 GTO Resto-Mod (Nov 27, 2012)

:thumbsup:


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## PontiacJim (Dec 29, 2012)

Great job on all the fabrication. Looks great. 

Keep us posted on the hydraulic master cylinder and a round of good photos and possibly a parts/price list. I like linkage, but when adding headers I read so many problems with fitting them. I would think that the hydraulic master would be a good alternative maybe just to save some headaches with the header tubes.:thumbsup:


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## 1968 GTO Resto-Mod (Nov 27, 2012)

PontiacJim said:


> Great job on all the fabrication. Looks great.
> 
> Keep us posted on the hydraulic master cylinder and a round of good photos and possibly a parts/price list. I like linkage, but when adding headers I read so many problems with fitting them. I would think that the hydraulic master would be a good alternative maybe just to save some headaches with the header tubes.:thumbsup:


thanks!
i've installed the mcleod racing street pro clutch with hydraulic throw-out bearing kit. 
i had read stories in many threads online about leaking mcleod master cylinders but they had already upgraded their system to include the wilwood master cyclinder when i placed my order... we'll eventually see how it all works.

you can get detailed information about these products at mcleod's website:

Mc Leod | The Leader in Clutch and Drive Technology

























thanks for your interest!
danny


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## 1968 GTO Resto-Mod (Nov 27, 2012)

various bits and pieces starting to come together... and still doing a lot of detailing on original parts which have been bagged up since disassembly.

last night i worked on running the spark plug wires up to the distributor.

















still wondering where to put the ignition box.
it absolutely needs to be kept dry at all times...(that's a no brainer, eh?) 
...and separated from the blaster coil as much as possible? 
any suggestions here?
can it be safely mounted on the firewall above the heater box?

also been rethinking my plan to install hydratech hydraboost for the brakes. 
i have read stories in some threads where people claim to be satisfied with manual brake set-up when properly adjusted. 
it seems to be a matter of using a master cylinder with appropriate bore diameter and mounting the clevis on the brake pedal to achieve favorable pedal ratio.
baer is selling a very nice looking billet aluminum master cylinder which can be installed with optional bolt-on proportioning valve. 
according to baer tech support it is adaptable to hydratech hydraboost but i would likely need a different diameter master cylinder bore if i wanted to switch it up later on down the line.
do any of you guys care to share your thoughts on this one... manual or hydraboost?
are there considerations to be taken into account that i'm not yet aware of?

and here is another issue i've been struggling to come to a decision on:
before my parents got the car the passenger side door was replaced with one from a 1969 car. 
on the driver's side door i have a wing window and on the passenger side i do not. 















also, the 1969 door has a different interior door panel.
i have been able to locate replacement 1968 doors but getting one to alaska may be quite expensive and it's difficult to verify the condition of the parts. 
some guys want to sell a door for $850 but won't even email a photo!
i really want the car to look right but i'm not sure how much i should be willing to lay down for this type of thing... 
also really, really need to resolve this one before going to paint, right?

any opinions are welcomed and appreciated.
thanks in advance for your input!
danny

:thumbsup:


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## PontiacJim (Dec 29, 2012)

Thanks for the hydraulic clutch info.

On the door, could you not simply purchase the wing window from an aftrmarket supplier and fab your mounting brackets and bolt it in?

$850 is absurd. I recently saw some '68 doors on the local craigs list here in Charlotte, NC. $175 each https://charlotte.craigslist.org/search/pta?query=1968+pontiac+

If the above does not work, I simply put "1968 pontiac" in the search box used for "auto parts". They are still listed. I am sure you could get one shipped.


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## ALKYGTO (Mar 29, 2010)

you could mount your coil and ignition box inside the car, in the glove compartment or on the interior side of the fire wall under the dash.


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## 1968 GTO Resto-Mod (Nov 27, 2012)

PontiacJim said:


> Thanks for the hydraulic clutch info.
> 
> On the door, could you not simply purchase the wing window from an aftrmarket supplier and fab your mounting brackets and bolt it in?
> 
> ...


great suggestions... thanks!
if i wanted to modify the passenger side door to accept the wing window it would involve removing the exisiting glass and cutting it to fit the wing channel... and need to be sure the channel would fit well without conflicting with 1969 window bracketry inside the door.
seems like it might also be an idea to remove all the glass from the driver's side door, delete the wing window, find replacement glass to match the passenger side, and try to make it work with the existing bracketry. 
i'm not completely attached to the wing window, i just mostly feel like both sides of the car should have matching glass.



ALKYGTO said:


> you could mount your coil and ignition box inside the car, in the glove compartment or on the interior side of the fire wall under the dash.


another good suggestion- thanks alky!
is it true that the box and coil should be separated to avoid potential electromagnetic interference between the two?
would it be enough to put the box on the inside of the firewall and the coil on the other side, maybe next to the wiper motor?
i need to investigate the option of putting the box in the glove compartment...

thanks again to all who share their thoughts!
i'm very grateful for your input- cheers!
danny


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## Eric Animal (Oct 28, 2007)

I have the Tallon brand hydroboost brake system in my 67 GTO...2 years and almost 3000 miles....works great. I mounted the MSD box on the driverside inner side of the radiator support...it is covered by the decorative stiffener plates in the finished photo...but you can see it in the partial assembly pic....DON"T forget ..if you are using disc brakes, boosted is the way to go, weather it be vacuum (if you got any vacuum)..or hydraulic. Eric "the almost dead' Animal!!!!


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## 1968 GTO Resto-Mod (Nov 27, 2012)

*update*

here are some photos of recent progress:














































:thumbsup:


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## 1968 GTO Resto-Mod (Nov 27, 2012)

*update*














































thanks for having a look at my project

danny


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## Matthew (Feb 11, 2011)

Danny, looking good. Did you rebuild your steering column while you had it out? Matt


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## 1968 GTO Resto-Mod (Nov 27, 2012)

Matthew said:


> Danny, looking good. Did you rebuild your steering column while you had it out? Matt


yes, full refurb of steering wheel and column complete with new bushings/bearings/seals/retainers/etc. from ames.
also cleaned and detailed all electrical components including switches for horn, turn signals, and emergency flashers, etc.
here are just a few photos...















































thanks for your interest in this project!
danny


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## Matthew (Feb 11, 2011)

Good stuff Danny. Couldn't tell in your last set of pics. Nice work. Oh, and nice shop. Matt


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## 1968 GTO Resto-Mod (Nov 27, 2012)

Matthew said:


> Good stuff Danny. Couldn't tell in your last set of pics. Nice work. Oh, and nice shop. Matt


thank you!















































one little step at a time... always moving forward!
danny


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## 1968 GTO Resto-Mod (Nov 27, 2012)

*bucket seats*





































i'm very happy with the way the seats turned out.
the work was done by henry perez at alaska refinishing and upholstery with materials i purchased from ames.
henry tackles a lot of upholstery projects for other classic car owners here in fairbanks and his work comes very highly recommended.
eventually i'll probably see if he wants to build a new rear seat for the car as well.
thanks for checking in!

danny


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## 1968 GTO Resto-Mod (Nov 27, 2012)

*update*

well, it's been almost a whole year since my last post here so i reckon it's about time for an update.
the engine is running smooth and i'm now in the process of preparing the car for paint. 
went down to the dmv last month and updated the registration and got new license plates. need to start investigating insurance options.
everything is coming together very well at this stage and i hope to have the car road-ready for summer driving within the next two or three months.









































thanks for having a look at this thread.
danny


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## Juice564 (Jan 17, 2016)

What a great looking machine, engine bay looks great! That transmission hump was the same one I was looking at myself. How did you attach that to the car, with sheet metal screws? I was going to spot weld mine in place but may make access difficult.

Did you make all those fuel hardlines to the carb yourself?


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## BearGFR (Aug 25, 2008)

Insurance: May I recommend Hagerty? It's easy to get distracted with "deals" and all the other stuff and forget that the reason you buy insurance is for the times when ugliness happens.
I experienced an engine fire in 2013 on my 69 GTO that just devastated me emotionally, considering that it had taken me more than 25 years to get my car built and I had performed 100% of the work myself. The way that Hagerty responded and treated me through the whole ordeal is the reason I'll be their customer for life. They were kind, understanding, supportive, and fair. I didn't have to "fight" them for one single thing. When the adjuster came out to inspect the car, I had already made an attempt at estimating what it was going to cost me in parts and supplies from all my preferred sources. Within a week, I had a check in hand for every penny - no struggle, no argument - along with instructions that if I decided not to do the work myself and needed a re-evaluation, to contact them. I don't know how it could have gone any better, considering.

Oh, and you're doing great work on this! :thumbsup:

Bear


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## 1968 GTO Resto-Mod (Nov 27, 2012)

Juice564 said:


> What a great looking machine, engine bay looks great! That transmission hump was the same one I was looking at myself. How did you attach that to the car, with sheet metal screws? I was going to spot weld mine in place but may make access difficult.
> 
> Did you make all those fuel hardlines to the carb yourself?


thank you for the compliments!
i considered several different methods of attaching the shifter porch to the trans tunnel. 
welding it in just seemed like it would be overkill, and as you pointed out, make future access difficult.
screws or threaded rivets may have worked but i was reluctant to put more holes in the metal. 
in the end i just ran a bead of tiger seal along the mating surfaces and pressed it into place.
for the fuel hardlines from the tank to the fuel pump i used tubing ordered from speedway motors and just shaped it by hand myself.
then after i got measurements for the braided stainless fuel hardlines from fuel pump to carb i had them made at a local shop called alaska rubber and rigging. 
the fuel filters (80 micron in line from tank to pump and 120 micron in line from pump to carb) were purchased from robbmc.

thanks again for your interest in this project!
cheers,
danny


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## 1968 GTO Resto-Mod (Nov 27, 2012)

BearGFR said:


> Insurance: May I recommend Hagerty? It's easy to get distracted with "deals" and all the other stuff and forget that the reason you buy insurance is for the times when ugliness happens.
> I experienced an engine fire in 2013 on my 69 GTO that just devastated me emotionally, considering that it had taken me more than 25 years to get my car built and I had performed 100% of the work myself. The way that Hagerty responded and treated me through the whole ordeal is the reason I'll be their customer for life. They were kind, understanding, supportive, and fair. I didn't have to "fight" them for one single thing. When the adjuster came out to inspect the car, I had already made an attempt at estimating what it was going to cost me in parts and supplies from all my preferred sources. Within a week, I had a check in hand for every penny - no struggle, no argument - along with instructions that if I decided not to do the work myself and needed a re-evaluation, to contact them. I don't know how it could have gone any better, considering.
> 
> Oh, and you're doing great work on this! :thumbsup:
> ...


great recommendation, bear! thank you! 
some other fellas have also suggested hagerty. 
i'll be giving them a call for sure.
that is a brutal story but thanks for sharing it. 
you're right, situations like that are exactly why we need insurance... and not just any insurance either!
sounds like the people at hagerty understand the kinds of relationships classic owners have with their cars.

thanks again for chiming in with the suggestion, and thank you for the compliment. i really hope to be putting some miles on the gto this upcoming season. 









cheers!
danny


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## 1968 GTO Resto-Mod (Nov 27, 2012)

*update*

i feel like i've taken the dry fit about as far as i can.
i've obsessed over this long enough... i spent three days on the endura bumper alone and i still don't like where it's at!
decided not to re-install mouldings for rocker panel and wheel openings. 
test fit of all other mouldings looks alright (i couldn't weld the trim rivets so i had to use the screw-in style).
all the glass is on hand including a new windshield and replacement glass for the passenger side door. 
the original rear window glass is in surprisingly good shape so i'm going to clean it up and re-install it.
registered with dmv and insured the car through hagerty. 
don't have any idea how much this car is worth but i set up a conservative policy.
drove the car for the first time last night. 
but when i say 'drove' i mean that all i know is the car will move forward and backward under it's own power haha! 
clutch feels good and the muncie shifts smooth at idle. 
nice clear weather and dry roads today so delivered to straatsma's shop for paint.
he seemed happy with what he saw.
when i get it back i'll be ready to install headlights/blinkers, glass/weatherstripping, and seatbelts.




















thanks for checking in!
danny


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## BearGFR (Aug 25, 2008)

So.... what color is it going to be? From the photos, the work looks great.

Bear


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## 1968 GTO Resto-Mod (Nov 27, 2012)

BearGFR said:


> So.... what color is it going to be? From the photos, the work looks great.
> 
> Bear


thank for the compliment, bear!
i appreciate your feedback.
i've done the best i can to retain as much of the original equipment as possible while making the more sensible upgrades and modifications. 
the purists probably don't think much of it but i have done this project in such a way that if anyone ever wanted to return this goat to stock condition it would be fully possible. 
i've saved and stored all the original equipment i didn't re-install.

here's the rendering:









phs documents show original color was called cameo ivory.
paint plan is to stay original plus a few coats of clear on top.

cheers,
danny


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## BearGFR (Aug 25, 2008)

1968 GTO Resto-Mod said:


> i've done the best i can to retain as much of the original equipment as possible while making the more sensible upgrades and modifications.
> 
> ....
> 
> ...


... Which is pretty much the route I took with my '69, however I may have gone slightly past 'sensible' in a few areas >

I do still have 100% of the original parts as well.

Bear


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## smboonejr (May 3, 2016)

Excellent build, thank you for sharing. Look forward to pics with fresh paint!


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## 1968 GTO Resto-Mod (Nov 27, 2012)

*update*


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## Juice564 (Jan 17, 2016)

I'm jealous! I was going to leave the rocker moldings off mine too but was still going to use the wheel arch trim. Did the body guys have better tricks on getting that endure bumper to look right?


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## 1968 GTO Resto-Mod (Nov 27, 2012)

Juice564 said:


> I'm jealous! I was going to leave the rocker moldings off mine too but was still going to use the wheel arch trim. Did the body guys have better tricks on getting that endure bumper to look right?


yeah, i left off the wheel opening mouldings and the rocker panel mouldings. i can't see the sense in putting more holes back in the metal. 
again, apologies to the purists out there (not that they give a rip about this thread anyway) but i believe the car will look better without them. also, they would be pretty easy to put back on if anyone ever wanted to.
the bodyman left the endura bumper brackets mounted to the frame where i had them bolted up, removed the bumper, and slightly shaved the inside of the mounting holes on the brackets to get the gap perfect. carriage bolts still work fine since the mounting holes were only opened up a very little bit.
thanks for following along. if you have any other questions or input please feel free to share your thoughts.
cheers,
danny


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## GR8-68 (Jun 12, 2016)

Your ride is looking beautiful !! Great work


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