# headers pita



## maktope (May 22, 2013)

Guess I didn't take it to heart when I read how much installing these sucks. Had to drop clutch linkage,starter,oil pump. Shim the motor 1/2 inch. Which in return made me have to grind down the front of my air cleaner to fit. Not even done yet have about 6 hrs into this nightmare.


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## chemnick (Nov 16, 2013)

You have my sympathy. Today I installed the headers on my restoration project ('67 GTO) and starting with JUST A BARE FRAME it was much more difficult than I imagined. Hope things turn up for you.


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## maktope (May 22, 2013)

Update done for day. Starter has to go. Think I have a mini high torque in storage hopefully. Silly me for thinking I could get It done painlessly in one day


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## Instg8ter (Sep 28, 2010)

We speak from experience...:banghead: I just picked up a set of the ram air manifolds ceramic coated with downpipes for 350.00 and thats a bargain compared to having to re-install the headers again.


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## jetstang (Nov 5, 2008)

I have Doug's headers that are supposed to be the best for my motor swap on my 70's new motor. I was thinking of putting my old headers in my 66, but when I put the motor in the 66 I installed manifolds for a reason, guess I may not learn from my mistakes..


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## ALKYGTO (Mar 29, 2010)

Wow, my headers are no problem and I've got 2 1/8" primary's with 3 1/2 inch collector :confused. I needed a mini starter but everything else fits fine. Hell, 2 of my pipes go around the frame.




Oh yeah.....Chevy motor :bannana:


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## maktope (May 22, 2013)

I hear you alky, i got the supercharged chevy 572 in my shopping cart. Days like today make me want to click buy.


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## BearGFR (Aug 25, 2008)

Yeah, they're painful to mess with for certain, but they are vocabulary enhancers... :cuss:

I've -heard- (translation: no direct experience) that mad dog headers fit better.

When it's time to replace my Dougs, I might just try a set.

Bear


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## rickm (Feb 8, 2012)

if that is what its gonna take to install those headers, id put them back in the box. having to alter your air cleaner too? F**K that ! whoever designed those needs to find another job. im sure there are better fitting headers out there then that. what year gto?


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## ALKYGTO (Mar 29, 2010)

For you round port guys, check these out-

OBX Racing Sports SS Exhaust Manifold Headers 64 72 Pontiac GTO LeMans 326 455 | eBay

Thoughts? They are obviously off shore made but I've used OBX headers on my GTP GP and the quality and fit was top notch. And yes they were stainless steel and the welds were perfect. I think I would definitely try these if I was running the E heads or any round port head.

Honestly for a 400 inch D port engine I'm thinking RA manifolds are the way to go.

A big inch round port motor with an aggressive cam is gonna need headers though.


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## ALKYGTO (Mar 29, 2010)

maktope said:


> Guess I didn't take it to heart when I read how much installing these sucks. Had to drop clutch linkage,starter,oil pump. *Shim the motor 1/2 inch*. Which in return made me have to grind down the front of my air cleaner to fit. Not even done yet have about 6 hrs into this nightmare.


I would definetly check the angle of your driveline, you may have altered it enough to change the pinion angle and induce vibration. Just a thought.

https://www.google.com/search?q=dri...-McPf2AW76ID4Ag&ved=0CCYQsAQ&biw=1391&bih=627


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## maktope (May 22, 2013)

Rickman it's a 69, with a 428. Headers are hooked who over the phone assured me no modifications would be needed. I am not concerned with the air filter, have new carb and intake on the way that will give me my clearance needed. The unexpected added cost for a new starter to replace my new starter sucks and the fact the the car is not on the road today probably a good thing it's actually raining in Los Angeles.


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## bobby326 (Dec 13, 2009)

I have dougs headers 1-7/8 primaries with 3-1/2 collector on my 67 lemans with a 400 and round port e-heads and had nonproblem at all with the fitment. The only problem i see is that ill have to remove the header to remove the motor mount bolts. I do have a mini starter though. Installation was pretty painless


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## maktope (May 22, 2013)

Thanks for the link alky. I fought Nasty vibration when I 1st got the car. And in all my focus and choice words I didn't even thing about the driveline.


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## chemnick (Nov 16, 2013)

The ones I have are Doug's and I bought them-still new-from the original buyer about a year ago. When I started my resto plans, I had them blasted clean and ceramic coated. As I had stated yesterday, I put them on as I dropped the newly rebuilt 400 onto my chassis. They sit OK near the frame on the driver's side, but there is one tube that sits hard on the frame on the passenger's side AND it's not going to allow for the trans cooling lines to follow the original route (and of course I have the nice pre-bent SS lines) PITA!! I guess I'll just make a set that will run along the oil pan out of strait brake line. As for the tube that hits the frame, I think it has a clearance dimple in its future. The new motor is looking sweet. Final paint tonight w/clearcoat, accessories going on. I'll post some pics soon. Oh yeah, I put on the stock 4-piston calipers and tried a 14X7 Ralley wheel (JA code) NO GO!! Rim hits the caliper.:eek2::banghead:


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## rickm (Feb 8, 2012)

I have found that a set of headers that according to manufacturer fit a broad range of applications are the ones to stay away from. headers that are made to fit more specific years seem to fit best with little or no modification. price will also give you a warning how much hair your gonna pull out installing them. ive read posts where brand new sets have had to have hammers taken to them to fit. that don't fly in my book. you've read this before but doug's are the best fit for Pontiac.


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## leeklm (Mar 11, 2012)

Also makes a difference if auto or manual trans. Clutch linkage is one more ob-stack-el (a reference for the O'Brother, where art Thou? fans)

Many engine combos loose virtually no power with the RA manifolds, as was the case with my iron-head mild cam 455. I am in the process of adding a "mid-level" roller cam and KRE heads, and a worked/ported iron intake to that 455, and will be interesting to run another dyno session. I expect to see a larger variance with the headers on this combo, but will be interesting.

If not much dyno difference again, I will post the results to rub it in a little, but if there is a big difference, I will probably be the next guy installing a set of headers and pissing & moaning about it 

With that said, it definitely sounds like something is not right if the engine has to be raised for the headers to fit!


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## MrMootsie (Sep 14, 2012)

Instg8ter said:


> We speak from experience...:banghead: I just picked up a set of the ram air manifolds ceramic coated with downpipes for 350.00 and thats a bargain compared to having to re-install the headers again.



Exactly what I did after reading the horror stories. 


Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App


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## Instg8ter (Sep 28, 2010)

Just got the RAR manifolds in yesterday, they are the 2.5", nice looking pieces. guy had them jet coated. also included 2.5" stainless down pipes and the extensions for an X pipe also in stainless, got them for 350.00 + 80.00 packing and shipping


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## leeklm (Mar 11, 2012)

Instg8ter said:


> Just got the RAR manifolds in yesterday, they are the 2.5", nice looking pieces. guy had them jet coated. also included 2.5" stainless down pipes and the extensions for an X pipe also in stainless, got them for 350.00 + 80.00 packing and shipping


Dang, i never seem to find those deals!


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## maktope (May 22, 2013)

just sold the RAIV manifolds i pulled off with down pipes for 300. seems i am always on the other end of those deals myself


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## Instg8ter (Sep 28, 2010)

I'm always looking to add stuff to the shelf if i can get a deal, even if i don't have a use for it right now. I foresee a new rear main seal over next winter so when the motor has to come out the manifolds will go on. Still sitting on a 455 block and 400 virgin complete motor as backups. Both were recent re-builds where the new owner had more grandiose plans and i got them cheap. Also picked up a complete 3:55 posi chevy 12-bolt w/strange axles last year for $400.00. Built my whole car on the notion if i can't get it for 30% off retail i don't need it yet, only way to save a buck on a build. There are apps to set up search queries for craigslist, and E-bay that way you can catch things when first posted and you need to be ready to jump on them.


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## maktope (May 22, 2013)

thats a hell of a deal on the rear end, just had a 12 bolt 3.55 gear welded tubes c clip eliminator toms axels built. 400 didnt cover labor.


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## ALKYGTO (Mar 29, 2010)

Agreed :banghead: $1500 in parts alone and did all my own labor. I did get the deal of a lifetime on the blower though- like new Wieand 6-71 polished with BB Chevy square port intake polished and all the drive accy's , two 850 center squirter Holleys, the scoop and a pair of chrome valve covers with some cool breathers for $900. 

Someone I worked with had been given it for repayment of a loan. Seems the guy bought everything to build a car, fell on hard times, and never finished it. The guy I got it from just wanted what was owed to him originally. That was the beginning of the end of my numbers correct frame off. Never was a chalkmark, overspray guy anyway.


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## Instg8ter (Sep 28, 2010)

helluva deal on that birdcatcher...i paid 650.00 for the weiand dual manifold with two fresh holley 600's, that was at a swap meet and i had some money burning a hole in my pocket, was just surprised to see anything Pontiac there...LOL

On the 12-bolt i also got the guy to throw in some anty hop bars and a set of MT street slicks with a few passes left in them. Need to starty a new show "Pontiac Hoarders"...:cool


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## maktope (May 22, 2013)

For some reason anything I could possibly use again I get rid of. And hold on too the stuff don't have a use for. When I switch my intake and carb next week I am going to try to keep the old ones but I'll probably end up selling them cheap just to get them out of the garage


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## rexs73gto (Nov 25, 2012)

I don't know why all you guys are having so much problems putting on your headers ?? I had headers on my 73 GTO when I run a D-port engine & it would only take me about 3 hours to put on a new set or to replace a set. Now when I went to the E-heads none of the headers fit so I had to go to RA IV manifolds but if I had a set that were designed for the car with the E-heads I'd have them on. I've had 27 GTO of almost every year & had headers on most. The hardest were on the 65's but still only took about 5 hours to do them. You need to remember that the engine has to be loose & the best way to install the headers is to use a cherry picker to lift the engine up on each side as you install that side as you put them in. By lifting the side of the engine your doing makes them go in a lot easier. But if you don't they will fight you a bit. But again if you use the cherry picker you can lift the side your doing & the headers will go right in.


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