# Sticky  Trunk pan replacement



## Rukee (Feb 8, 2007)

Long story short, looks like I might tackle the trunk pan replacement on my classic `65 GTO. A "friend" (who I`d like to deck if I see him) cut out the old pan and scab welded in a 7 piece kit. Problem was a blind folded 4yr old welding with his toes could have done a better job. He wrecked the new pan by cutting off the inner well lip. I ordered a new USA made kit and will probably install it myself. I have just a few questions for you body shop guys.
Looking at what`s left after I took the new wrecked floor pan out, I`m guessing I`m going to have to cut where I have the white dashed lines and drill holes in the replacement pans where the yellow circles are then fill the holes with weld?
















I`m thinking I`ll have to cut off the rest of the trunk floor flange along the inner fender well....and drill holes in either the fender well or the new floor flange to weld together?
















Also, how would a guy patch those lower inside inner fender wells?
Thanks for any responces.


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## 05GTO (Oct 6, 2004)

Rukee said:


> Also, how would a guy patch those lower inside inner fender wells?
> Thanks for any responces.


The trunk brace has a lip that will cover most of the circled rusted area and attaches to the inner fender well. I had to replace both of my braces and I had the same problem as in your picture. The area that is marked on the other pictures, Is that the old trunk floor?


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## Rukee (Feb 8, 2007)

Yes, those pieces I marked with the white dashes are parts of the original floor.


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## 05GTO (Oct 6, 2004)

Try a spot weld cutter to drill out the welds and remove the rest of the pan. I found this kit at Northern Tool.


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## Rukee (Feb 8, 2007)

05GTO said:


> Try a spot weld cutter to drill out the welds and remove the rest of the pan. I found this kit at Northern Tool.


Thanks, I just ordered one from NAPA, should have it this afternoon. So then I`m going to be looking for spot welds along were I have the white dashed lines to drill out?


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## 05GTO (Oct 6, 2004)

Somewhere in that general area, the ones on my trunk brace were a dimple, I found a couple by running my finger across them.


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## Rukee (Feb 8, 2007)

Okay I got the trunk panels going back in. What do I want to use on the bare sheet metal on both the under side and the inside of the trunk? And what do I use for the seam sealer or whatever they had on the edges??


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## 05GTO (Oct 6, 2004)

Here are some sealers and primers from Wurth USA;

http://www.wurthusa.com/project/en/...atalog_application_3.php?s=ind&id=4&vfile=../


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## Rukee (Feb 8, 2007)

Lots of products there...
I was thinking some sort of etching primer and a rubberized undercoating underneath and the speckle paint over the primer inside. Wash it with some thinner first. Would a guy have to sand the primer before undercoating and speckle painting? And I know the seam sealer goes around the outside seams, but do I use it on the two seams of the three main sections?


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## 05GTO (Oct 6, 2004)

I would consider an epoxy sealer/primer for both side of the trunk, no need for sanding and seal all seams to keep the exhaust fumes out of the car.


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## Rukee (Feb 8, 2007)

The trunk kit went really well. I drilled holes in all the overlapping parts and spotted them all together. The guy who gob welded in the first kit cut about two inches too much from the top edge by the back seat area, I had to weld that back in too. I sealed up the edges and under side edges with the seam sealer and after it sets for a couple days I`ll sand it down and paint it with the spackle paint. That went so good I decided to do the floor pans too. Both sides, full length. Those went in soo good, I ordered the two panels that repair the under the back seat area too. The body shop that was going to do the work left tons of sand from sand blasting everywhere in the car, then left the car out in the rain for weeks, so now those panels are in need or replacing too.
Yesterday I painted the firewall and front frame horns/front suspension and set the motor/tranny back in. Today I'm going to finish hooking that up and try to paint the gas tank, radiator support and inner fender wells and bolt them back up too. I ordered a DA sander and some sand paper...might as well start on the rest of it too.


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## 05GTO (Oct 6, 2004)

Sounds great, any pictures?


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## Rukee (Feb 8, 2007)

Lots of work to do yet.


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## 05GTO (Oct 6, 2004)

Wow, Impressive work, everything looks great.

The surface rust on the floor pans doesn't look that bad, in addition to the frame and firewall I sprayed 60% black on the areas marked by the red line on my 67.


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## PEKO (Nov 30, 2006)

65's I Love My Favorite Year. My Dad Has 2 In Various Stages Lol


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## Rukee (Feb 8, 2007)

05GTO said:


> Wow, Impressive work, everything looks great.
> 
> The surface rust on the floor pans doesn't look that bad, in addition to the frame and firewall I sprayed 60% black on the areas marked by the red line on my 67.


Thanks!
You can`t see in the pic, but I can see the road in a half dozen pin holes in that rear seat pan. And I was wondering if that area you marked should be black or the body color. How am I going to keep that area black when I shoot the color and that valance panel is on there?? Or shoot that panel off the car and assemble afterwords? Or tape the area and place the panel over the paper? Seems like stupid questions...sorry.


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## 05GTO (Oct 6, 2004)

On the 66, I'm going to spray my fenders, valiance, header panel, deck lid, doors and hood off of the car and assemble afterwards. I'll spray the trunk after the car to cover any overspray in the trunk.

Under the hood I'll be spraying 30% gloss black and the areas marked in red and the wiper linkage and brackets I'll spray 60% gloss black.

Here is a pic of the 67 when I sprayed the frame and firewall last fall,


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## Rukee (Feb 8, 2007)

On the top of that section there is a couple inches before that header/valance panel screws down that looks like it should be black too. But what about under that valance? Where the wiper tranny`s are...should that section be black? Or body color? Thanks for helping 05GTO, I really appreciate it.


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## 05GTO (Oct 6, 2004)

On the top of that section there is a couple inches before that header/valance panel screws down that looks like it should be black too. That strip just in front of the windshield which the cowl valence fastens too is the color of the car.

But what about under that valance? Where the wiper tranny`s are...should that section be black? Or body color? 
Everything below the valence I sprayed 60% black, including the linkage and wiper braces.

Thanks for helping 05GTO, I really appreciate it. 

No problem,


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## Rukee (Feb 8, 2007)

I did the black all the way up to that windshield tin. I put the radiator support, inner fenders, radiator, shifter, driveshaft and front wiring in. I`d like to get it so I can move it to and from another shed on it own. From there I was thinking I`d prep and paint the inside parts of the doors, trunk lid, fenders, inside door jams and then put the fenders and doors back on. Then tape off all the inside parts and paint the whole outside at once, or pay someone to shoot just the outside for me. MAACO?


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## 05GTO (Oct 6, 2004)

With the high cost of the materials I'm thinking about taking mine to one of my customers who owns a collision center. He just purchased a large phone system from my company and would like to barter the payment.

It may be a good idea to have someone with a booth and experience to spray your car. The underbody, frame and firewall doesn't have to be perfect, the body does IMHO.


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## Rukee (Feb 8, 2007)

YEA! I drove my car for the first time sence Feb.! Even if I was sitting on a case of oil. :B I got the cooling system, MSD and wiring all in so I`m able to move the car under it`s own (Tri)power again. I need to move it to another shed so I can do some work on the paying jobs and pick this up again in a few days.  Then, I think your right, after I do the inside parts and reasemble I just might let a pro shoot it. It`s a dark color and making it all look uniform and even and straight is going to be hard to pull off.


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## Rukee (Feb 8, 2007)

Forgot to mention, I broke the ear off the right exhaust manifold when I bolted the pipe up. So now I`m either looking for a manifold, or a header/exhaust kit. Don`t know if I wanna go with headers or not, would be nice, my exhaust now is very quiet. Might end up pulling the pipe back down and weld the ear, I dunno.


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## 05GTO (Oct 6, 2004)

Rukee said:


> Forgot to mention, I broke the ear off the right exhaust manifold when I bolted the pipe up. So now I`m either looking for a manifold, or a header/exhaust kit. Don`t know if I wanna go with headers or not, would be nice, my exhaust now is very quiet. Might end up pulling the pipe back down and weld the ear, I dunno.



I have 2 with a casting # of 9779328, 65's casting was 9779033, one has the ear broken but has a working flap without the spring. The other has good ears but the flap is welded open on the sides. Did 65 have the flap on the 3x2 setup? You can have both, I found one that was complete and I also have 2 new exhaust bolts that I did not use.


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## Rukee (Feb 8, 2007)

I`m not sure what is correct for `65 Tri-Power. When I got the car years ago, it came with another complete `65 4bbl engine in parts. There is a right manifold here in those parts with the flapper door(frozen open, no spring), but it also had an ear broken off. It`s so rusty I can`t read the #, but it looks like it could be the correct one you listed for `65. So I used the other right manifold I had without the flapper door. But now that ear broke too.
I could really see a ceramic coated header set and a new dual 3" system with chrome splitters under there. :cool But, then again, I like it stock too.... I`ll have to see how my money goes. Thanks for the offer, I`ll PM you if I need one.


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## Rukee (Feb 8, 2007)

When I first installed the MSD unit I found a real sweet spot to mount it out of sight. I made a plate to mount it to, then mounted the plate and MSD unit inside the fender between the fender and the well utilizing the existing fender bolts. You can see it here without the fender on. Every classic GTO could benefit from an MSD unit. It just like wakes up every motor I`ve bolted it on to. Plus it works perfectly with the stock distributor and points. I`m still undecided as what to do with the exhaust.


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## 05GTO (Oct 6, 2004)

I've loaded the 66 to take to the body shop in the morning, he wants to see the car before I take it to the sandblaster on Tuesday.

Send me your address by PM and I'll send those manifolds to you, one was off of my car and the other was free from a friend. You may be able to transfer the flap to the good manifold and will need a spring which I think are available, or just use it as is. I blasted it several months ago so it is ready for paint.


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## Rukee (Feb 8, 2007)

Taking it in to a body shop in the mornin huh?? hehe, now you wanna go and make this a race?! :willy: 


I cringe at the thought of the 'sandblaster' ! These guys who did mine left sand everywhere. The side cowl panel was full all the way to the bottom of the heater blower! I blew sand out of the car everyday for a week. I`m sure the place your going to will do a better job. On that rotisserie too you can just tip it over to aid in cleaning it all out. 

I bet you had fun getting that on the trailer.


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## 05GTO (Oct 6, 2004)

Rukee said:


> I bet you had fun getting that on the trailer.


Thank god for a friend and a floor jack, I would have never been able to load it by myself. There are over 20 rachet straps holding it in place on top of 4 tires.


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## Rukee (Feb 8, 2007)

What did your body guy tell you? Is it going right back in for paint after the sandblaster guy?


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## 05GTO (Oct 6, 2004)

He is a friend and a customer, he started dropping hints about being too busy, under staffed and no room in his shop. I thanked him for his time and started making calls.
The guy who touched up the 67 said he could do the prep work in my building and I'll rent the booth where he works on a weekend to paint the car. 

It is raining in GA so the blasting has been put off until better weather. Hopefully by the end of the week.


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## Rukee (Feb 8, 2007)

I ordered a dryer for the air compressor line, the spray gun kit with three different cups, 1 1/2 gals. of single stage B-6 Blue Charcoal paint, and enough primmer to do the whole car and it was only like 400 bucks. :cheers


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## 05GTO (Oct 6, 2004)

I have a gallon of Southern Polyurethane, Inc's epoxy primer and a gallon of their part b activator, total was around $200. 

I haven't priced the paint, I'm guessing another $200 to $300. UPS is picking up the package today, you should have it Friday or Monday.


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## Rukee (Feb 8, 2007)

Thanks man. I`ll be looking for it.

I just shot some color around the insides of the fenders and OMG! is that a gorgeous
color!! I can`t wait to see the whole thing done. :cool Hopefully I can do the doors tomorrow.


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## Rukee (Feb 8, 2007)

I`m ahead of schedule, the door insides and jams are painted, under the hood, under the trunk, the front two painted parts that go around the grills. Got the doors and fenders on and lined up. But looking at those front grill area parts it looks like I`m missing the brace that holds the hood reliece mechanism. Goes from the center bottom of the core support up to the hood latch. Wonder were a guy could find one of those, and what`s it called? Hood latch brace?


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## 05GTO (Oct 6, 2004)

I think that is the horn brace which connects the lower bar on the core support just under the radiator to the upper part of the core support in front of the latch, on the 66 and 67 there is another brace from the horn brace that supports the grill. I've never worked on a 65 but I'll look around. I'm going to the shop tomorrow and I'll post a picture of the 66. Also I'll look in my resto manual for 65. BTW, this isn't a race! LOL


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## 05GTO (Oct 6, 2004)

I found a picture of a 65 on ebay showing the horn support;


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## Rukee (Feb 8, 2007)

Yep, that brace there in the middle of the core support is the piece I need. I`ll just buy that whole car to get the one piece.  Actually I found horn brace on e-bay I`m going to try to bid on it before it ends tomorrow. I wonder if I can install that brace after the grills and those two front painted panels are in?


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## Rukee (Feb 8, 2007)

I scored that brace off e-bay....YEA!! 
I got the hood and trunk back on. I painted the underside of the hood the black you suggested and the edges, and the underside of the trunk and the inside parts of that cowl panel by the windshield the blue color. Putting those componants on myself was a challange.  You can see how well that MSD unit is hidden in the open hood shot. I`m going to try to contact another body shop this morning, one I haven`t called yet to see if they can shoot it for me and for how much.


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## Rukee (Feb 8, 2007)

What a bunch of crap! He says it`s still too much work for them to do it all. They want me to do all the finishing work, he recomends a rear quarter put on and I do all the glazzing work, and he wants 15 hundred to squirt it with my paint.  All he has to do it tape it off and paint it and he wants $1,500.00?? :confused


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## Showgoat67 (Feb 16, 2005)

Well to just squirt the car if i have to tape it up and shoot it and that is all theni charge $800 plus materials.More if i have to sand and do any minor stuff.


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## Rukee (Feb 8, 2007)

What would it take of your actual time if it was all taped up and ready to shoot? 2 hours in the booth? 400 an hour, yea I`d like to make that too.

I just had another guy late last night stop and look at it. He claims there`s about 40hrs worth of work to do yet before paint. He quoted 5-6 grand. I was like WTF?? 5 grand for 40 hours? What makes you think you need a thousand dollars a day to work on my car?? WTF? Just cause it`s a classic GTO they think they can tripple charge?
I don`t mind paying for service, but I won`t stand by and be raped either. 1500 just to squirt and 5 grand for a weeks work is being raped IMHO.


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## 05GTO (Oct 6, 2004)

Is the guy for $1500 doing a base coat and clear coat? What exactly is he doing? Forgive me, I don't know that much about spraying.

Mine is at the sandblaster today,


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## Rukee (Feb 8, 2007)

05GTO said:


> Is the guy for $1500 doing a base coat and clear coat? What exactly is he doing? Forgive me, I don't know that much about spraying.
> 
> Mine is at the sandblaster today,


he`s only spraying my paint, single stage....no clear....no taping....no sanding......nothing but spraying my paint. It won`t be costing him a thing sept to run the fans and lights, and this guy has no 'new booth' either. Not only that, but he said he wouldn`t want people to know he shot it, I shouldn`t tell people he shot it, and he wouldn`t stand behind the job at all if their was runs, flaking, fisheye, dirt, bubbling......I was just like, okay, thanks for the option.


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## Showgoat67 (Feb 16, 2005)

When you do a base coat clear coat job it take 3-4 hours to do it and that is if you have no problems.Now even if you have a booth does mean you wont get something in the paint no job is perfect anyone that says they can do it perfect is full of crap.Painting a car is not as easy as alot of people think and once you do it from start to finish only then can you understand.I have painted over 15 cars that i have resotred or did for friends and it takes a toll on your body trust me.


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## Rukee (Feb 8, 2007)

I understand, I understand it`s just labor. Even at 4 hours that`s still $200/hr. if you did it, and $375/hr if this other guy did it. Which is raping me. I`m taking a couple weeks off from work and I`m going to provide the labor myself. At 1500.00 I could buy enough paint to wet sand and repaint the thing a dozen times, out of that many one of those paints jobs should look good.


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## Showgoat67 (Feb 16, 2005)

Well good luck to you on painting the car i hope it all works out>make sure your gun pressure it set right and the fan spray on the gun is set good and you make sure the weather is good if it is raining takes along time to dry also make sure you let the paint flash before you apply 2nd coat.Also make sure when you clear the car the clear is like maple syrup when it comes out dont go to fast or to slow and make sure your a dollar bills length away and also make sure you do a 50% overlap when painting and clearing so you dont miss anything.Before you paint spray a test panel to make sure you have the proper settings.Make sure you wetsand the car with 600 grit and wipe car down with damp cloth do not use chemicals will react to paint.When you wet sand and buff becareful especially on the corners and top of fenders easy to go through and have to repaint.Also remember this anyone can spray paint but the reason it costs so much is the quality of the paint after it is sprayed.make sure you have plenty of ventalation and dont run heaters in garage while you spray could cause explosion.Turn on heaters between coats.Good luck

kenny


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## Rukee (Feb 8, 2007)

Thanks for the pointers Showgoat67. I`ve been getting alot of them from all over. Yesterday I cut out both lower rear quarters and welded in patches. Today I might try to replace that panel behind the rear window. Next week I might be ready to paint. I`m seeing a ton of progress every day and it really makes me happy to see it all coming together!  I probably have another week after it`s painted to put all the windows and interior back together.


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## 05GTO (Oct 6, 2004)

Rukee,

Can you post pics of your quarter repairs, I may replace both of my quarters because of the large amount of bondo; Here is a picture after it was sandblasted. At one time the lower quarters were patched on this car.


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## Rukee (Feb 8, 2007)

I could, but the pass side is done and in primer you can`t see anything, drivers side is done too but just in a layer of bondo on the weld seam. ..and I only patched from that bottom most body line in the verry back down. That way you can`t see anything from inside the trunk as it`s below the trunk floor. Yours looks like it needs the whole quarters?
That panel between the rear window and the trunk I thought was going to be a nightmare, but it`s going well. Man they had about a gal. of bondo in the lower window area, by the time I ground all the bondo out, the panel bout fell out from the rust they repaired.  I`m gunna try to weld that back in this afternoon. :cheers


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## 05GTO (Oct 6, 2004)

It took hours to get all of the sand out of the car, even with the rotisserie, a leaf blower and a vacuum. 

I've ordered a trunk floor kit and may replace the tail panel and both quarters. The time involved in grinding out the bondo and rebuilding the quarters would justify replacing them. The old quarter patch panels are pitted with rust holes as well as the trunk inner side filler panels.

I'll treat the metal and spray it with an epoxy sealer next week,


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## Rukee (Feb 8, 2007)

Sounds like a bit more work then mine.
Oh-yea, you lose.  I just painted it!! :cheers 
It looks incredible! I see a couple dirt things, but no runs or drips, and the metal flake all looks even. :cool 
I can`t wait till monday to start putting it together.


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## 05GTO (Oct 6, 2004)

Looks good, are you going to clear coat it?


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## Rukee (Feb 8, 2007)

I didn`t get any clear coat. Should I buy some in the morning?

*edit*
I checked with NAPA, it`s just a single stage paint with a hardener, it doesn`t need clear. I`m good to go.


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## Rukee (Feb 8, 2007)

This is the coolest color I`ve ever seen on a GTO!! It looks silver in bright light, blue in medium light, and black in soft light. Looking down the car it changes color with the light refected.
Got a few pieces of chrome on, everything needs cleaning after painting....but man, does it look HOT!!


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## Rukee (Feb 8, 2007)

I updated the pic above. 
I found another piece that I`m missing, what is that welting or whatever on the inside that runs around the doors there and holds the headliner to the roof?? I need to get some, other then that,it`s going very well.


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## 05GTO (Oct 6, 2004)

I think they are called seal strips, on the 67 it is a plastic channel that looks like the windlace on the door jams.

http://www.opgi.com/product.asp?top...topvalue=0&newflag=0&grpcode=12058&yearrange=


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## Rukee (Feb 8, 2007)

Sweet, that`s it.
I called around to a few upholstery shops in Madison, boy they are alot different then the body shops!  They actually want the work! I was quoted between 650.00 to 1070.00 to do the headliner, sail panels, vinyl top, and put the windshield and back glass back in and all the trim for the glass and top back on. And they want it now to work on. I`m going to see what I can do about lining up a truck and trailer for this weekend. Either that or throw on a snowmobile suit and drive it in. :rofl:


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## 05GTO (Oct 6, 2004)

The guy that said he was going to help me with the body work stood me up today for the second time. I called him and he said he would stop by tomorrow after work. If he doesn't show, I'll find someone else, what's up with these body guys? I bought a gallon of rust inhibitor called Ospho, Have you ever used it? Check out these guys, on body panels they are very competitive. http://www.thepartsplaceinc.com/


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## Rukee (Feb 8, 2007)

I got a few parts from that place. Rechromed bumpers, headlight and tail light bezels. I have to send the back bumper back, when I installed it the other day I noticed some cracking going on on the top edge where it wraps around the tail light.
I don`t know why body men are so crazzy expencive, and even then they don`t wanna work!  
Bring your car over, I`ll do it for you. :cheers


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## Showgoat67 (Feb 16, 2005)

*bumper rechrome*

The best place i have ever used for the bumpers to be rechromed is www.tricityplating.com


they are awesome and they fix bent bumpers rusted out bumpers whichever and they do great work never had a problem with them.I have had 9 sets of bumpers done by them and i would recommend them to anyone if you need rechrome.

Goat looks nice rukee good job and you can see it isnt just load and spray takes some time and also if you do clear coat it remember it comes out heavy like syrup be careful.


kenny


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## Rukee (Feb 8, 2007)

I think I might paint it again. When I got the car out into the sunlight, it was orange pealed pretty bad. So I wet sanded and buffed it out. Although it made the paint smooth and glassy, it also took most of the blue out and left the car a smokey silver color. It looks very cool, just different. I also shot the rear tail panel pretty light. Wet sanding and buffing I burned threw a bunch of spots, so I stripped all the chrome back off and I`ll have to reshoot it here one of these days. I was told I painted it too light and that caused the orange peal. I need help setting up the gun too, I had it kinda high pressure and low volume, it must need low pressure and high volume....or whatnot. maybe you can clue me in Showgoat67?


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## Rukee (Feb 8, 2007)

I just had a body guy over here and he said 1500.00 to mask, wet sand, base coat and clear coat. That includes the paint and materials. He`s thinking he`d have it done by monday night. I called the tow truck already, I didn`t think that price was too bad. I`d rather not screw it up again.


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## Showgoat67 (Feb 16, 2005)

*paint job*



Rukee said:


> I just had a body guy over here and he said 1500.00 to mask, wet sand, base coat and clear coat. That includes the paint and materials. He`s thinking he`d have it done by monday night. I called the tow truck already, I didn`t think that price was too bad. I`d rather not screw it up again.



Well you gave it a shot that is why people get the money they do to paint the car.You made the right decision let someone who paints finish the car it can be a real pain to have to go through it time and time again.And if you do it again try and paint on a junk fender to learn the gun and the pressures and the faning of the gun take practice.And such.There is more involved in painting then people realize for instance.

1.Gun setting
2.air pressure
3.reducer temp
4.prep work
5.Temperature of metal and car when you spray it
6.Speed your painting car going back and forth, and be right distance from car.
7. 60 %Overlap to get good solid coats.

And just being used to doing it i practiced on fenders and doors for months before i painted my first car.My buddy tried to do his car also and would not listen and he had so much orange peel you could of squeezed the car and made a glass of juice.


Well good luck on the gto


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## Rukee (Feb 8, 2007)

Got the car back and it looks real good! Put all the chrome and stuff on and in and I sent the car off this morning to the upholstery shop to get the headliner, vinyl top, and front seats recovered. They are also going to put the front and rear glass back in after the headliner goes in. Wish it was more sunny out today, the metal flake really sparkles in direct light, kinda gloomy out today. I don`t think it looks too bad though.


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## Showgoat67 (Feb 16, 2005)

Well good for you as long as your happy with the outcome then that is all that matters.Go have fun with the car that is the whole reason to have it.I bet your glad though that you had someone take care of the paint now one less worry on you for finishing car.


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## raspantienator (Nov 20, 2007)

*64 Gto*

Hi all,

I am looking into a 64 GTO but could use some advice if the car is worth 36000. 
The website is www.pjsautoworld.com 
Once there, click on 60's car and scroll down a little to a bright red GTO. Hey, if one of you get it first, then I've done some good here...LOL.
but any suggestions are appreciated.

Frank


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## SANDU002 (Oct 13, 2004)

Ask if any restoration work has been done and pics of the PHS documentation so you can check it against options on the car. Also you want to know if everything works (i.e horn, gauges). Check the price against others listed in Hemmings.com and Ebay.


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## Rukee (Feb 8, 2007)

Just got the car back and it looks real good. Completely different from white, that`s for sure. Looks very regal. I`ll take some better pics tomorrow and post them.


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## 05GTO (Oct 6, 2004)

OK, you won! Looks great.


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## Rukee (Feb 8, 2007)

It just doesn`t look right in the snow.


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## fredyG (Apr 18, 2012)

Very usefull your thread, I'm starting with my trunk which is very , very rusted, as you can see .....


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## 67RestoTempest (Jul 10, 2013)

holy hell and i thought i had a bad trunk


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## albin79 (Oct 23, 2014)

Showgoat67 said:


> Well you gave it a shot that is why people get the money they do to paint the car.You made the right decision let someone who paints finish the car it can be a real pain to have to go through it time and time again.And if you do it again try and paint on a junk fender to learn the gun and the pressures and the faning of the gun take practice.And such.There is more involved in painting then people realize for instance.
> 
> 1.Gun setting
> 2.air pressure
> ...


I'd rather have ten runs than any orange peel. I'll stick to sprayin hot and heavy :thumbsup:


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## georgegervin44 (Nov 19, 2014)

Love that color, Rukee. Congrats.


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## frankrp (Jan 19, 2015)

*trunk floor replacement*

I used a three piece trunk floor all three pieces were very easy to adjust together and fit correctly going up the hump. I used weld through primer and drilled holes through panels then used Cleco fasteners to hold everything together and welded up each hole this gave me great penetration and minimal grinding of welds. Make sure you remove all the oil off those new panels before paint also where are the trunk support brackets I don't see them in your photo


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## SpeedSLC (May 24, 2015)

I like the thread, a lot of you really know a lot


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## Indy1K (May 16, 2008)

*Trunk Pan Replacement*

Hi Rukee,
I was reading your post on trunk and floor pan replacements. In my 65, someone before me, mig'ed in a 3 piece trunk pan and extensions and they are all misaligned. :banghead:
I am going to cut them out and start over. What pan did you use? one piece? or 3 piece? You mention welding it in place and sealing it. Did you mig in the whole thing or use one of the new body panel adhesives or just sealer. I always though you needed to weld all the seams to each other. 

Thanks,

Kevin


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