# '67 GTO Brake Line Routing Help



## chainboy1 (Oct 16, 2008)

I bought a front disc brake conversion from Right Stuff and realized it wouldn't work with the old lines. The proportioning valve used to be mounted on the frame, the new one mounts it underneath the master. Bought a complete stainless line kit and tried to install everything last night. Most went well but I had trouble with the front passenger side line. I couldn't get the thing routed right and by the time I was done screwing with the thing I ended up trashing the line. I have a replacement on the way, Right Stuff is replacing it for free, just had to pay shipping since I want it overnighted. Anyways I need any input or pictures to help me get this thing routed right this time. Right Stuff said they don't have anything to show how they should be routed. Seems weird as they are pre bent and they obviously had to have something to design their pre bent lines and everything. If anyone could help with this it would be much appreciated. Thanks


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## chainboy1 (Oct 16, 2008)

I'm good, got it all figured out. Went from manual drums all the way around to front discs with power. Huge difference, I love it!


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## ALKYGTO (Mar 29, 2010)

Hey, glad everything worked out for you! :thumbsup:


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## wyldthng (Nov 26, 2019)

chainboy1 said:


> I bought a front disc brake conversion from Right Stuff and realized it wouldn't work with the old lines. The proportioning valve used to be mounted on the frame, the new one mounts it underneath the master. Bought a complete stainless line kit and tried to install everything last night. Most went well but I had trouble with the front passenger side line. I couldn't get the thing routed right and by the time I was done screwing with the thing I ended up trashing the line. I have a replacement on the way, Right Stuff is replacing it for free, just had to pay shipping since I want it overnighted. Anyways I need any input or pictures to help me get this thing routed right this time. Right Stuff said they don't have anything to show how they should be routed. Seems weird as they are pre bent and they obviously had to have something to design their pre bent lines and everything. If anyone could help with this it would be much appreciated. Thanks


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## wyldthng (Nov 26, 2019)

Well here we are--5 years later and I have the same ??????--- how did you do with the front right brake line?


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## wyldthng (Nov 26, 2019)

Perhaps I should say I am working on a 64 gto with 67 ram air exhaust manifolds.......I am installing all 67 Master -Booster. so I have all original style parts..... the frame is the same-- so should work--thanks for the help--


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## EdGorman (Mar 26, 2020)

I'm having issues with the 1967 distribution block mounted on the inner side of the frame being pushed against by the Header. The hard lines are SS, and I am wondering if it would be better to relocate the block using SS braided lines to move it to the firewall


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## Colorado67GTO (Sep 11, 2014)

On my 67, I was able to mount on the frame in the stock location, but I am running standard manifolds.

Many pictures I have seen show the block just hanging below the master cylinder by the brake lines or using a bracket for that purpose. Maybe look at what Inline Tube has.


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## EdGorman (Mar 26, 2020)

All of my lines are from inline. I can't use my Ram air manifolds. I have oval port Butler Edelbrock heads


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## ylwgto (Oct 27, 2009)

EdGorman said:


> I'm having issues with the 1967 distribution block mounted on the inner side of the frame being pushed against by the Header. The hard lines are SS, and I am wondering if it would be better to relocate the block using SS braided lines to move it to the firewall


Hi,
Having the same issue on my '66. did you figure out a solution? I have headers and have never liked how close the stock drum framerail brake distribution block and front line are to the header. thought that by having a nre front disc kit with a master-mounted prop valve would solve this, but now I don't know what pre-bent lines to get. Sounds like the OP had issues routing them too. any experience you had would be great help. Thanks!


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## EdGorman (Mar 26, 2020)

ylwgto said:


> Hi,
> Having the same issue on my '66. did you figure out a solution? I have headers and have never liked how close the stock drum framerail brake distribution block and front line are to the header. thought that by having a nre front disc kit with a master-mounted prop valve would solve this, but now I don't know what pre-bent lines to get. Sounds like the OP had issues routing them too. any experience you had would be great help. Thanks!


Okay. So I moved the block to the Back side of the booster, and went to a hydraulic supplier to get SS braided lines. I have run the two front from the block straight down Via braided line. Front left direct to the rubber hose with a 90 deg fitting. Front right to the line with a coupler, but rebent the line to the outside of the framewhich is where it is coming from anyway. You will have to use line clips to hold these in place. Otherwise they are just flopping in the wind. BTW: easier with the fender off, but keep in mind where the inner fender ties to the firewall. The Block is set in a position where the rear brake port is facing toward the ground. That was a sinple: out of port with a 45 deg. 12-14 inch line to a coupler - to the rear line. The rear hard line can be manipulated to keep it far away as possible from the header. Then tie it down. Last is the lines from the Master cylinder to the block In ports. I would suggest having them hard line, and bent to where they need to go. I have a proportion valve on the booster, so that is not harder. These pics are not the greatest. I just finished paint, so I am not pulling the front clip off the car till is has cured for a week. These line ar AN fitting with adapters for the proper seating into the block, and lines. If you want it to look more original, I would suggest bending your own lines or have someone else take on the headache. I would definately pull the fender off to do this job. You can see I'm not done yet but almost there.


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## ylwgto (Oct 27, 2009)

EdGorman said:


> Okay. So I moved the block to the Back side of the booster, and went to a hydraulic supplier to get SS braided lines.



Unreal...super helpful and looks great! I wish I had this information last month. 
I really like the relocated block and the position of your prop valve. did you make that bracket?

Can you share the specs for the custom SS hoses you got? are you worried at all about fluid expansion in these and brake power loss? 

again, thanks for the detail.


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## EdGorman (Mar 26, 2020)

ylwgto said:


> Unreal...super helpful and looks great! I wish I had this information last month.
> I really like the relocated block and the position of your prop valve. did you make that bracket?
> 
> Can you share the specs for the custom SS hoses you got? are you worried at all about fluid expansion in these and brake power loss?
> ...


I will get back with you on updates. Work has been nuts and still blocking out clear coat. Meantime here is the page for SS lines I used.





Russell Performance Brake & Clutch


Brake & Clutch Hoses and Fittings by Russell Performance cover a wide range of Street Legal, DOT, Universal and competition applications for your performance brake and clutch needs.




www.russellperformance.com


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