# Out of the weeds



## Duff (Jan 12, 2020)

Here's my old 66 tri power, 4 speed goat, it's been sitting since the mid seventies, 1st picture is when I bought it years ago as a doors back roller, 2nd picture is yesterday, finally got it running. Next step is brakes, exhaust, prime it 1 color and get it back on the street.


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## Sick467 (Oct 29, 2019)

It looks very exciting! Good Progress, I'm envious as I just started the rework of mine last summer.

Edit: It looks like you have the same fuel delivery system that I do...lol.


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## Jared (Apr 19, 2013)

Looks great! Your first ride will make all the hard work worth it.


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## PontiacJim (Dec 29, 2012)

Prime it 1 color? I'd leave it the way it is for a while and drive it just to see what kind of reactions I got. LOL


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## Sick467 (Oct 29, 2019)

PontiacJim said:


> Prime it 1 color? I'd leave it the way it is for a while and drive it just to see what kind of reactions I got. LOL


Yeah, that look really takes me back! I'd have to drive it like that too.


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## Duff (Jan 12, 2020)

Yeah, leaving it the way it is might work, I certainly couldn't afford a show paint job, even if I found a guy still painting. Anyways, good looking wheels / tires and clean glass, makes any old car look look like it has potential.


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## Duff (Jan 12, 2020)

I've been all over the State and to Norwalk getting the best used GM pieces I could find which included:66- 67 chevelle & lemans seats, 66-67 GTO front sheet metal, 67 SS chevelle 12 bolt posi, 1970 chevelle rear sway bar, 66 GTO M20 and shifter, 67 GTO console and other misc trim.


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## LATECH (Jul 18, 2018)

Sweet!


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## PontiacJim (Dec 29, 2012)

Duff said:


> Yeah, leaving it the way it is might work, I certainly couldn't afford a show paint job, even if I found a guy still painting. Anyways, good looking wheels / tires and clean glass, makes any old car look look like it has potential.


You may not be aware, but do a cheapo spray gun paint job yourself. All you need is Rustoleum paint if you can find a color you like. Go for the matt black look, mix gloss black & flat black, thin it down with acetone, and spray it. If you do not have the spray equipment, use a good top quality camel hair brush and apply - you might be surprised how it comes out.

Doing my brother's truck in Rustoleum Hunter Green - inexpensive and it'll hold up for years to come. I put down Rustoleum primer first.

Rustoleum - black & white roof with a good brush, looked real good and was smooth no runs.
Did this over 30 years ago - el cheapo.


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## armyadarkness (Dec 7, 2020)

PontiacJim said:


> Prime it 1 color? I'd leave it the way it is for a while and drive it just to see what kind of reactions I got. LOL


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## Duff (Jan 12, 2020)

Thanks Jim for the paint ideas, I still have my old Binks #7 gun, so I may do what you did. First, I'd like to try and remove the blue paint and gray primer that was just sprayed over the original red, they didn't sand the car, so some of this stuff may come off? Cheech & Chong, Great stuff! Here's our REAL hippie van from the seventies, ( not a clone.





























)


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## armyadarkness (Dec 7, 2020)

You can use the media blast equipment that I list in the "ugly motor solutions" thread. Whatever is no good will come off, whatever doesnt can be painted over, so long as you're not mixing paint types.

Red Devil Paint stripper or the equivalent, will strip everything as well.

IMO, if you're good enough to spray spray paint, and you have a Binks, then you can paint your car yourself. Just stick to solid colors, single stage.


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## pontrc (Mar 18, 2020)

Love that stance on the GTO, Love that van and the Mach 1


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## armyadarkness (Dec 7, 2020)

pontrc said:


> Love that stance on the GTO, Love that van and the Mach 1


Its about time you showed up.


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## An0maly_76 (Dec 25, 2021)




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## PontiacJim (Dec 29, 2012)

armyadarkness said:


> You can use the media blast equipment that I list in the "ugly motor solutions" thread. Whatever is no good will come off, whatever doesnt can be painted over, so long as you're not mixing paint types.
> 
> Red Devil Paint stripper or the equivalent, will strip everything as well.
> 
> IMO, if you're good enough to spray spray paint, and you have a Binks, then you can paint your car yourself. Just stick to solid colors, single stage.


You don't have to strip it to bare metal. If the paint is solid enough, just sand and shoot. But, if you want to get to bare metal, the paint stripper is the fastest way I found in doing it and then follow that up with sanding, primer, paint. I use a DA air sander and 180 grit paper to get any left over paint off.

I do sandblast any rust to get that clean and then put a coating of POR-15 on it so the POR gets into the pits. The POR will seal the rust. BUT, then I do sand the POR back down to the metal which leaves the POR in the rust pits/pores and then prime/paint. Not sure if I need to sand the POR, just a personal preference.

You can go even more professional, but more work & money. So you have options.


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## armyadarkness (Dec 7, 2020)

PontiacJim said:


> You don't have to strip it to bare metal. If the paint is solid enough, just sand and shoot.


Yes, so long as the paints are compatible. Ive seen many many base paint jobs lift, when they were either top coated too heavily, or with incompatible paint.


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## PontiacJim (Dec 29, 2012)

armyadarkness said:


> Yes, so long as the paints are compatible. Ive seen many many base paint jobs lift, when they were either top coated too heavily, or with incompatible paint.


My take has always been that you are "safe" when applying an enamel over "whatever." The problem can arise when putting lacquer over enamel as the solvents can soften/crinkle/lift the enamel and that can depend on how fresh the enamel was and/or the type of thinner, ie such as a slow drying thinner.

BUT, since the paints have bee reformulated for our protections and to save the planet, things may have changed.


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## 67ventwindow (Mar 3, 2020)

PontiacJim said:


> My take has always been that you are "safe" when applying an enamel over "whatever." The problem can arise when putting lacquer over enamel as the solvents can soften/crinkle/lift the enamel and that can depend on how fresh the enamel was and/or the type of thinner, ie such as a slow drying thinner.
> 
> BUT, since the paints have bee reformulated for our protections and to save the planet, things may have changed.


 Things have change the world is a better place and everyone is nice cause we can communicate 24/7/365.

I forget was the lead the thing that caused eagle eggs to be thin? My chickens have that problem but its not the 100 year old paint on my chicken coup. Its cause my kid eliminated calcium from their diet.


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## An0maly_76 (Dec 25, 2021)

67ventwindow said:


> Things have change the world is a better place and everyone is nice cause we can communicate 24/7/365.
> 
> I forget was the lead the thing that caused eagle eggs to be thin? My chickens have that problem but its not the 100 year old paint on my chicken coup. Its cause my kid eliminated calcium from their diet.


Nope, DDT. Which was made illegal and supposedly hasn't been a thing for quite some time now.


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## 67ventwindow (Mar 3, 2020)

An0maly_76 said:


> Nope, DDT. Which was made illegal and supposedly hasn't been a thing for quite some time now.


 DDT was Jake "the snake" Roberts knockout move.


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## An0maly_76 (Dec 25, 2021)

67ventwindow said:


> DDT was Jake "the snake" Roberts knockout move.


DDT was also a pesticide which endangered bald eagles, I remember hearing something about by weakening their eggs, but apparently by other causing other issues as well.

Bald Eagle Fact Sheet


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## Axle (Sep 5, 2020)

Duff said:


> Here's my old 66 tri power, 4 speed goat, it's been sitting since the mid seventies, 1st picture is when I bought it years ago as a doors back roller, 2nd picture is yesterday, finally got it running. Next step is brakes, exhaust, prime it 1 color and get it back on the street.
> View attachment 150591
> View attachment 150592


Congratulations on the progress. Strong work. Keep it going.


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## armyadarkness (Dec 7, 2020)

PontiacJim said:


> My take has always been that you are "safe" when applying an enamel over "whatever." The problem can arise when putting lacquer over enamel as the solvents can soften/crinkle/lift the enamel and that can depend on how fresh the enamel was and/or the type of thinner, ie such as a slow drying thinner.
> 
> BUT, since the paints have bee reformulated for our protections and to save the planet, things may have changed.


That's exactly my take as well... but as you mention at the end there, some of the new urethane enamels will still reactivate themselves. But even then, light coats with good dry time between, and you can usually tip toe through the mine field.


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## Duff (Jan 12, 2020)

Thanks for the encouragement! Yes, for the first time I now view it as a GTO, before this, I considered it a pile of parts. I recently retired, so hopefully I'll have more time to work on it.


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## PontiacJim (Dec 29, 2012)

armyadarkness said:


> That's exactly my take as well... but as you mention at the end there, some of the new urethane enamels will still reactivate themselves. But even then, light coats with good dry time between, and you can usually tip toe through the mine field.


Yes, heavy wet coats


armyadarkness said:


> That's exactly my take as well... but as you mention at the end there, some of the new urethane enamels will still reactivate themselves. But even then, light coats with good dry time between, and you can usually tip toe through the mine field.


Yes, heavy wet coats could be bad, but too dry is bad as well - orange peel or rough surfaces. The key is to give the primer, or what ever base coat is used, enough time to allow for all the solvents to dry out which could be several weeks.

I primed with the Rustoleum and wanted to shoot another coat to follow up on additional work. I had primed it the day before. What I found when I went to sand/scuff the primer that it didn't really sand leaving dust, but basically clogged the sandpaper. So that indicated to me that a whole lot more drying time was needed IF I were going to sand/scuff the primer and then top coat - at least this is my theory on it. I had no problems shooting more primer over what I had as I needed to get it covered to protect it from the up and coming rainy weather.

So the base paint that has been sprayed should be allowed to dry out thoroughly. I am thinking the litmus test would be that when sanded, you get your typical paint dust and not soft paint that clogs the sandpaper.

I went on YouTube and the web to see the best means to dilute the Rustoleum. As always, 100 different opinions with the ratio of thinner-to-Rustoleum AND many different opinions on which thinner to use. I went with Acetone, bought at Home Depot, and literally just added it while mixing the primer and when it looked thinned "enough" and not like syrup anymore, I just sprayed it. You don't want it like water, and I don't use a "paint cup" to watch how fast the paint drips to tell me its good to go. Acetone dries fairly quick, so the amount and outside temps will affect the drying speeds, so if you are not used to spray painting the stuff, get a test panel and play with the thinner and you gun settings.

One video said they used the Japan hardener which is supposed to make the paint harder and give more gloss, BUT, another video said they saw no difference. I used to use a hardener in the color coats when they had Dupont Centari, but that line is no longer available. The hardener did may a difference as to the way if flowed out and the shine. The Rustoleum seems to have enough shine for me as is - which is good enough for an old truck, and probably more like the original paints were versus the 2-part paints having the clear top coats that make then real shiny and unlike the original paints our cars were painted with.


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## armyadarkness (Dec 7, 2020)

PontiacJim said:


> Yes, heavy wet coats
> 
> 
> Yes, heavy wet coats could be bad, but too dry is bad as well - orange peel or rough surfaces. The key is to give the primer, or what ever base coat is used, enough time to allow for all the solvents to dry out which could be several weeks.
> ...


Well as you know, Im the king of spraying Rustoleum! I replaced POR 15 with it as the coating on all of the heavy equipment and trailers that I build, back in the 90's. We own a campground on salt water, so thats saying something.

I just use Sherwin Williams hardner and home depot acetone. As for the ratio, it's more of a feel than a set thing... Hot humid weather will require a different ratio than cool dry air, and then there's what kind of finish you want. I typically want a chip-guard, textured finish, so I thin it to the bare minimum that I need for it to flow through the gun... And if it's too thick, I pour in a little more, agitate it, and go!

It's much easier to creep up on thin than it is to back track to thick.


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