# New motor



## Cmseabee24 (Apr 14, 2021)

So I’ve been wanting something to rebuild. Found a guy selling a 62 389 block for $150. Set it up then I decided to ask him what else he had. He said throw him another $100 and he would throw in everything plus the 4 sod trans. Little did I know when I got there he had every nut and bolt that it came with it was even labeled. Even has the generator. The motor only had 88,000 miles and was pulled for a rear main seal leak. Also he through in a sound system worth a couple hundred bucks. Now I just got to find something to throw it in. Any ideas? Also I do want to throw the truck power intake and carbs on it though.


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## O52 (Jan 27, 2019)

Now to find a GMC truck to put it in. Or maybe a 63 Le Mans. 
Welcome aboard from a retired CESeabee!


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## Cmseabee24 (Apr 14, 2021)

Definitely a Lemans. Wouldn’t mind Putin together a 66. Hoorah brother.


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## Cmseabee24 (Apr 14, 2021)

Can you replace the 2 pc rear main seal on the 389 with the newer one piece seeing as they are the same measurements, just wondering I feel like the piece could create more problems.


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## michaelfind (Dec 14, 2018)

Welcome. Fun project. I vote for a LeMans


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## Cmseabee24 (Apr 14, 2021)

You don’t have to vote. It will definitely be going in a Lemans.


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## 67ventwindow (Mar 3, 2020)

Welcome. I vote for a Tempest with a bench seat. I miss having the wife or the kids sitting next to you. Now everyone has their own bubble.


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## BearGFR (Aug 25, 2008)

Cmseabee24 said:


> Can you replace the 2 pc rear main seal on the 389 with the newer one piece seeing as they are the same measurements, just wondering I feel like the piece could create more problems.


Yes, the 1 piece seal will fit. Careful though, if the crank has the serrated surface where the seal rides it can eat up either version of the Viton seal (1 piece or 2 piece) if not smoothed out. Also if the block will be or has been align honed/bored, that makes the seal groove sort of egg-shaped instead of round and can also be difficult to seal. On my last build, I used the 1 piece in a 400 block because I was "just sure" that had to be the best solution. I was meticulous in both fitting the seal and assembly, testing it to make sure it was dry by hanging from a hoist, butt down, over filled with oil. It was perfect. However, once in the car and running --- it leaked - quite a bit. Upon the most recent teardown (it's still apart) I found a ring of seal material more or less welded to the crank - apparently abraded off by the serrations. This time, I'll be using the Best Gaskets graphite rope seal.

Bear


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## Cmseabee24 (Apr 14, 2021)

Appreciate the input. I figured it would but I’ll probably stick with the 2 piece. Does anyone has a link to a shop manual? Something that will be a reference throughout the whole build. This will be my first time building a non Diesel engine. I know it isn’t really any different just would like one for reference.


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## Cmseabee24 (Apr 14, 2021)

I am looking to eventually throw a turbo on this engine. I want to keep the compression around 9:1. While I have the engine completely apart I want to do everything now. Cam, heads, possibly a camshaft but then again i shouldn’t need to maybe just get this one turned. Should I have this engine bored if it really could just be honed? Any thought or suggestions on cams and heads and whatever else to keep me around 400-500 bp would be great. Again I’d like to stay around 9:1. Another question I have is has anyone built these to run other fuel? I have heard or read somewhere that these engines are great and meant to spin high RPMs I’m not sure if this is actually true. Just curious before I decide what way I go with this build. Want to keep it budget friendly somewhat and also relatively simple as this is my first complete rebuild.


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## O52 (Jan 27, 2019)

Two or three books you need.

1. The Holy Grail of Pontiac V8 manuals is Jim Hand's 
*How to Build Max Performance Pontiac V8s *
Long out of print, copies go for over $100 on Ebay 

2. *How to Rebuild Pontiac V-8's*
Author: Rocky Rotella

3. *How to Build Max Performance Pontiac V8s *
Author: Rocky Rotella
This is an updated version of Jim's book, similar, but the original is still the best. Which is why it goes for the big dollars.

Any old reprints from HO Racing, They were active in the late 70s early 80s

Don't need a turbo for 400-500 HP. Thats easily obtainable with factory parts. 
Do some research on the SD (Super Duty) engines used in Drag Racing from 1962-63. Later design (67-79)Pontiac engine development was based on these engines.

Nice thing about Pontiac V8s is that they used the same basic engine from 1955 to 79. There is no big block or small block. Just one block that went through several changes in cooling and oiling design, bore, two different strokes and big valve/small valve heads.

Time to do some research before the dollars flow from your wallet


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