# Alternator Bracket question



## 66CHEEVO (Jan 24, 2021)

Another question. The stars are finally starting to line up and getting ready to start on my engine build. I've acquired almost every needed part; however, just when I think I'm done ordering parts I think of something else. 

I'm ditching the 4 barrel set up and going the tri power route. I'm wondering if I'm going to run into any issues using my existing alternator bracket. Below is a picture of my current bracket. I recently noticed from pictures of other tri power setups they have the single arm bracket. I'm not going to have power steering nor a/c and wondering if this will still work.

As always thanks again for the feedback.


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## Gremlin66 (Oct 11, 2009)

Does your timing cover have the “dimple“ at the top? You will need that to go tripower I believe. Im thinking your bracket won’t work with the tripower either. Pontiac brackets are a pain in the ass, seems to be many different ones. Finally got mine sorted out on my 66


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## 66CHEEVO (Jan 24, 2021)

Hi Gremlin, yes my timing cover does have the dimple at the top. 

Sent from my SM-F926U using Tapatalk


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## PontiacJim (Dec 29, 2012)

66CHEEVO said:


> Another question. The stars are finally starting to line up and getting ready to start on my engine build. I've acquired almost every needed part; however, just when I think I'm done ordering parts I think of something else.
> 
> I'm ditching the 4 barrel set up and going the tri power route. I'm wondering if I'm going to run into any issues using my existing alternator bracket. Below is a picture of my current bracket. I recently noticed from pictures of other tri power setups they have the single arm bracket. I'm not going to have power steering nor a/c and wondering if this will still work.
> 
> ...


Different years along with the different WP lengths, PS/AC/Alt choices means different brackets.

Your bracket shown is a later year bracket and I don't know what year they were used. it can be used, but you want to match your pulleys as well as they too can be different depth due to the WP used - 4" or 4 1/2".

Here is a new bracket and Alt spacer/bolt used for manual steering set-ups to give you an idea.









1968-79 Pontiac GTO/Firebird V8 Manual Steering Alternator Bracket Kit 4pc


1968-79 Pontiac GTO/Firebird V8 Manual Steering Alternator Bracket Kit 4pc




www.inlinetube.com





Here also are a couple pics of the 1972 455 I picked up and its brackets. It had AC/PS so brackets may be a little different.

Bottom line - get your balancer/WP pulley to align correctly then align the Alt to those which may be a perfect fit with your bracket or you may need to adjust by shimming it.

On the tripower, as noted, the waterneck may not fit depending on the timing cover. There needs to be a small scallop in the back where the water neck will fit. I have read many do have this scallop including some of the later timing covers, but may still need to be clearanced to work. You may have to do a little grinding on the water neck housing, but not so much to grind through. So check for that scallop before installing the timing cover if you need to get the correct one.

Your other option would be to cut off the tri-power water neck crossover and install a later model crossover - these are sold and made aftermarket in aluminum by Kauffman Pontiac as I recall.


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## 66CHEEVO (Jan 24, 2021)

The engine my 66 GTO has is a 1973 400. One of the prior owners swapped the 389 for the 400 with low compression 4X heads. I'm guessing the Alt bracket is original to that motor. The timing cover definitely has a dimple / scallop (see below).
Looks I need to do some research on getting the proper/ original bracket. Hopefully I'll get a chance to see some 66 Goats or at least see some better angled pictures.
Thanks for the responses. 


Loo


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## PontiacJim (Dec 29, 2012)

66CHEEVO said:


> The engine my 66 GTO has is a 1973 400. One of the prior owners swapped the 389 for the 400 with low compression 4X heads. I'm guessing the Alt bracket is original to that motor. The timing cover definitely has a dimple / scallop (see below).
> Looks I need to do some research on getting the proper/ original bracket. Hopefully I'll get a chance to see some 66 Goats or at least see some better angled pictures.
> Thanks for the responses.
> 
> ...


Your gasket/mating surfaces look a little rough/pitted. You might want to fix that. I used a long flat file to draw across the surfaces to ensure they were flat - you can use sandpaper as long as you have something to secure it flat when going over the timing cover. You may want to use a soft wire wheel or wire brush to get into some of the pitting to clean it. Once you have a clean surface, use some JB Weld in a thin layer to fill in the pits and/or any surface irregularities. Let it dry real well and hard, then sand the JB again down to the timing cover surface - should not require much heavy sanding as you only want a thin covering layer of the JB just to fill the pitting.

Once sanded smooth, you will have a good surface for the gasket to hold to. Another tip given me by my machinist is to use that Yellow adhesive on 1 side of your gasket to help it adhere to the mating surface. Follow the torque specs when tightening up your bolts. I cannot recall, nor ever done this, but if any of your bolts go into/through the water jacket in the front of the engine, put a little dab of sealant on the end of the bot threads - things I now look for and check that I never even thought of doing in the past.


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## 66CHEEVO (Jan 24, 2021)

PontiacJim said:


> Your gasket/mating surfaces look a little rough/pitted. You might want to fix that. I used a long flat file to draw across the surfaces to ensure they were flat - you can use sandpaper as long as you have something to secure it flat when going over the timing cover. You may want to use a soft wire wheel or wire brush to get into some of the pitting to clean it. Once you have a clean surface, use some JB Weld in a thin layer to fill in the pits and/or any surface irregularities. Let it dry real well and hard, then sand the JB again down to the timing cover surface - should not require much heavy sanding as you only want a thin covering layer of the JB just to fill the pitting.
> 
> Once sanded smooth, you will have a good surface for the gasket to hold to. Another tip given me by my machinist is to use that Yellow adhesive on 1 side of your gasket to help it adhere to the mating surface. Follow the torque specs when tightening up your bolts. I cannot recall, nor ever done this, but if any of your bolts go into/through the water jacket in the front of the engine, put a little dab of sealant on the end of the bot threads - things I now look for and check that I never even thought of doing in the past.


Thanks Jim. I'll definitely be repairing the rough surface. Thankfully the water pump side is okay and that's the worst of it.


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## PontiacJim (Dec 29, 2012)

66CHEEVO said:


> Thanks Jim. I'll definitely be repairing the rough surface. Thankfully the water pump side is okay and that's the worst of it.


That was what I did with mine. Why buy a used one or repop new one when it can be fixed easy enough? If it was really pitted deep, which is more likely on the inside passages, then its time for a new one.


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