# 65 carb problems



## sdrake (Jan 8, 2010)

Have a 65 with single cater AFB - restored to stock. Carb was professionally rebuilt and runs perfect after you get it started.

Here's the issue.

If the car has been sitting a while, it seems that all of the fuel drains out of the carb bowl. Takes lots of cranking to get gas back to the carb... once is does, it fires right up. If you restart the car within a 8 hours ish period, it seems fine, longer than that and the carb is void of fuel.

Any Ideas????

thanks


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## 66tempestGT (Nov 28, 2009)

look down in it and watch to see if the accelerator pump is working properly. you may also want to check the rubber lines between the tank and the fuel pump for cracks.


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## geeteeohguy (Feb 2, 2008)

sd, I have the same problem with a friend's '64 Imperial that I haven't been able to pinpoint. It's the same AFB that's on the GTO's, pretty much. The fule is not remaining in the float bowls. It is either evaporating, leaking out, or otherwise disappearing. Same deal: needs a prime to get it going if it sits longer than a day or so, but once it starts, it's good to go for 8 or 10 hours. The carb just dries up, and from what I can see, there are no well plugs, etc. for the fuel to leak out of. Perhaps a heat shield plate under the carb would help, or? Any suggestions, folks??? It can't be the fuel lines, because once the fuel is in the carb, it's in the carb.


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## Rukee (Feb 8, 2007)

Install a fuel filter with a 1 way check valve to eliminate the fuel siphoning back to the tank.


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## 66tempestGT (Nov 28, 2009)

:seeya:


geeteeohguy said:


> sd, I have the same problem with a friend's '64 Imperial that I haven't been able to pinpoint. It's the same AFB that's on the GTO's, pretty much. The fule is not remaining in the float bowls. It is either evaporating, leaking out, or otherwise disappearing. Same deal: needs a prime to get it going if it sits longer than a day or so, but once it starts, it's good to go for 8 or 10 hours. The carb just dries up, and from what I can see, there are no well plugs, etc. for the fuel to leak out of. Perhaps a heat shield plate under the carb would help, or? Any suggestions, folks??? It can't be the fuel lines, because once the fuel is in the carb, it's in the carb.


do you have a way to know its dry. like you said once its in there its in there. if the pump is faulty it will act like it doesnt have any fuel in the bowl. you will spin and spin until the engine can finally suck enough in to start. other than sticking something down the vent tube kind of like a dipstick i dont know how to verify that the bowl is actually empty.


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## 66tempestGT (Nov 28, 2009)

the cracks in the lines will cause the fuel pump to "loose its prime" and will lead to hard starts but this usually takes a day or two.


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## sdrake (Jan 8, 2010)

The fuel lines were replaced during the resto and I replaced them again trying to fix this prob with no change.

As far as the bowl actually being empty, I was basing that on the fact that no fuel comes out of the jets for quite a bit of cranking... as soon as the first breath of fuel squirts out, it fires right up. Based on this and the fact that it runs perfectly once started, can I assume that the accelerator pump is working properly?

Thinking of trying to find another AFB to put on the car to test if it is internal to my carb or external to the fuel system??

I love the idea of the filter with the one-way check valve. I would go that route but I'm trying to stick to 100% stock.

thanks for all the advice guys - great forum


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## paly57 (Jul 27, 2008)

I have the same problem with my 66 GTO. In fact I started a thead similar to yours back in 2007. If you do an advanced search by user name for all of my posts you will see a post entitled " Hard starting 66". You might be interested in some of the replies I got. Bottom line is that I took the advise of SANDU002 and either drive it or start it at least twice a week. If I do that it is not hard to start. Not always an instant start but ok nevertheless.


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## 66tempestGT (Nov 28, 2009)

probably is working but just for grins i would take a look down in there after you have finished running it (when you know its full) and give it a couple squirts just to be sure. it should be a pretty powerful shot not just a trickle. the needle and seat is operated by the float and if fuel is leaking back through the line then this is not doing its job properly.


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