# Exhaust leak & can't get headers loose



## jjmnav (Dec 6, 2016)

On my ’68 GTO, 400 CID - before I could get it inspected this year, got a bad exhaust leak at right side head/headers. 2 center bolts are frozen and of course the installer used hex bolts with 7/16” heads which I can only get open end wrench on. Used various penetrating oils along with engine heat + propane torch to heat, but all that results is that the open end wrench tries to open more. These Hooker Competition headers appear rusty but are still solid. Only other problem they give me is that I have to use a porta-power to squeeze a new oil filter in place.
Should I try engine heat on the heads and ice to cool the bolts in attempt to make the bolts slightly smaller??? 
Only other solution I can think of is to half way remove the engine or pull the head to separate the 2!!! Suppose I could have someone torch the tubes off or jack up the engine enough to jigsaw them off?
If I do get them apart, seems that I should replace bolts with the header bolts that use a 3/8" wrench instead of the standard 7/16".
If the Hookers get destroyed, tempted to replace with Ram Air/HO manifolds. I understand I would lose a small amount of HP.
Suggestions PLEASE :crying:


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## Goat Roper (Oct 28, 2014)

What you are dealing with is someone installed manifold bolts without using anti-seize.
Don't make the same mistake when you get it apart, make sure to use it on the new bolts.
Put some Kroil on them and use a long punch to smack them with a hammer.
Shocking them with hammer strikes will eventually break the bond along with the Kroil.
Patience is a big factor, don't rush and break a bolt or you will have to remove the head.
Keep soaking them twice a day and let the Kroil do it's work, it may take 7-10 days.
When you do wrench them smack them a few times first then try to tighten them a taste, once they come loose loosen them then tighten them back and forth adding more Kroil.
Once you get them out chase the threads with a tap to clean out the rest of the rust.


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## jjmnav (Dec 6, 2016)

Do you find AeroKroil equal to or better than 50/50 mix of ATF and Acetone? Just started the 50/50 soaks today. Thanks for reminder that I have not utilized my long punch that might allow mr to more than tap on the bolts. Unfortunate aspect is that any penetrate needs to wick upwards rather than soaking downward.

Please no comments to Remove Front Clip or Remove Inner Fender (another GTO group I am member of). These actions are no benefit unless I have to cut the headers up to be able to use a box wrench or socket as the Frame is the main obstruction.


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## 68restomod (Oct 10, 2017)

I had same issue with 2 of my header bolts. I was able to get a sawzall blade and cut the heads off. When headers were loose i used vise grips to grab remaining stubs and twist off. One thing i had to my advantage is the fender wells are removed. Good luck.


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## Goat Roper (Oct 28, 2014)

jjmnav said:


> Do you find AeroKroil equal to or better than 50/50 mix of ATF and Acetone? Just started the 50/50 soaks today. Thanks for reminder that I have not utilized my long punch that might allow mr to more than tap on the bolts. Unfortunate aspect is that any penetrate needs to wick upwards rather than soaking downward.
> 
> Please no comments to Remove Front Clip or Remove Inner Fender (another GTO group I am member of). These actions are no benefit unless I have to cut the headers up to be able to use a box wrench or socket as the Frame is the main obstruction.


I have used both PB Blaster and Kroil.
I have found Kroil to be the better of the two, it even works on rusted muffler clamps.
Kroil also wicks up.
I have a sawed off metal cutter I put in my air chisel I call "The Blunt Instrument" I use to hammer frozen bolts with.
You can also heat them with MAPP gas and squirt them with Kroil and it will be drawn in as it cools.
One of the worst I dealt with was a water pump stud on a Jeep.
I hammered, heated and soaked it for over a week in the morning and evening before I was able to run it out using double nuts on it.
Try not to round the head and use a line wrench if you can get one on it.
Line wrench crows foot might get in there.
Grinding the side of a box wrench might even work to get a better purchase on it just to break it loose.


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## jjmnav (Dec 6, 2016)

I did not look at the header close enough. Turns out that the tube was rotted out directly below the manifold. Did not resort to trying MAPP gas but all other efforts failed to get stuck bolts loose. Permatex High Temp #84333 patched the hole for inspection and held up for only 200 miles. Will try Permatex again with hose clamp as backing BEFORE I cut the header off.


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