# bleeding brakes



## Topkat (Sep 9, 2010)

What is the best way to bleed my brakes?
I have had the whole system apart and didnt "bench bleed"the new master cylinder, I hope I can work around that as I dont want to remove it.
The book says to attach a hose to the bleeder valves, starting with the left front, while holding down the button on the metering valve. (was wondering why I could get no flow on the front ones
I'm used to "farthest to closest"
While doing the back I got lots of bubbles and slimy ooze. I started to get some "pedal" but lost it. I see no leaks
thanks as always
:cheers


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## freethinker (Nov 14, 2009)

Topkat said:


> What is the best way to bleed my brakes?
> I have had the whole system apart and didnt "bench bleed"the new master cylinder, I hope I can work around that as I dont want to remove it.
> The book says to attach a hose to the bleeder valves, starting with the left front, while holding down the button on the metering valve. (was wondering why I could get no flow on the front ones
> I'm used to "farthest to closest"
> ...


one man brake bleeding. get yourself a broom handle or something that you can wedge the brake pedal down. pump until you get some resistance. wedge the pedal down. go around and crack the bleeders to release air. close bleeders and repeat.keep going until the air is gone.


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## dimitri (Feb 13, 2009)

If you go to the auto parts store, for $10.00 you can buy a universal master cylinder bench bleeding kit. You will need to remove both of your lines to the master cyl and follow the directions. Once the master is bled, fill the master completely to the top, put the lid on. Make sure all of your bleeder are tight at the backing plates. Start with the passenger rear. Have someone put pressure on the brake pedle and you go crack the right rear bleeder. When the peddle gets to the floor have them hold it to the floor and you tighten the bleeder screw. They release brake pedle and press again. You crack the right rear again and when the pedle gets to the floor tighten bleeder and then they release the pedle. You will need to do this first one about 12 times to get all of the air out. Every three of four pumps top off master cylinder. When the passenger rear is done go to the driver rear and repeat. When that is done, go to the pass front and last do the drivers front. It really helps to have a clear piece of tubing to put on the bleeder run one end on the bleeder the other in a jar. This way you will mimimize the mess and you will see when all the air bubbles are gone.


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## Tropical Goat (Jan 30, 2011)

I've had great results with those "check valve" style self bleeders in the help section
at Advance, Autozone, etc. You just loosen 'em one at a time and pump away at the pedal, and they'll blow out air/fluid, but won't pull air back in. They work kinda like a p.c. valve.


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## Koppster (Jul 27, 2008)

Mity Vac brake bleeders, make life a lot easier. I have the MV6835 (about $100) but you can pick up the MV8000 at Sears or NAPA for about $50. And you can bleed by yourself....

Mityvac Brake and Clutch Bleeding Equipment


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## GTO JUDGE (May 14, 2005)

While my car was apart over a period of 3 months one of the new items installed was a booster and master cylinder. Nothing wrong with old ones but they had lots of paint on them and I opted just to replace since everything else was being replaced.

Bench bleeding makes the job so much easier. I got my MC and booster from Ames. The MC came with a bench bleeding kit. Installed self bleeding valves at wheels too. Issue was being the car was apart for so long there was LOTS and LOTS of air in the lines, 2 of us bled the brakes I operated the brake pedal buddy did the bleeding on the rear and front. This took quite a bit of time. If you encounter lots of air, doing this yourself may take you quite a while.

We hooked up some clear plastic lines to the bleeders on the wheels and ran them into a bottle. When bleeding we didn't lose brake fluid. All in all the brakes were bled 4-5 times until the air was gone. The brakes now are fantastic. Better than they were when I got the car.

Even though you may have self bleeders having someone operating the pedal will save you a bunch of time. Just my .02


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## BearGFR (Aug 25, 2008)

Topkat said:


> What is the best way to bleed my brakes?
> I have had the whole system apart and didnt "bench bleed"the new master cylinder, I hope I can work around that as I dont want to remove it.


Yeah, it's a pain when you have to "go backwards", but consider this: how much time, effort, and money have you put into this car already? Do you seriously want to risk losing it all just because you missed a step on the brake system that caused it not to work the one time when you really needed it to? Removing the master is trivial --- disconnect two brake lines and remove two bolts...

Bear


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## geeteeohguy (Feb 2, 2008)

Agreed, bleed the Master Cylinder first and go from there, as stated. I've done hundreds, perhaps thousands of brake jobs, and have used a single method of bleeding master cylinders for over 25 years. It seems to work every time. I fill the master up 1/2 way. I fill a syringe with brake fluid, and slowly inject brake fluid into the outlet ports of the master, one port at a time. SLOWLY, or you will have a gyser. At first, you will see air bubbles and foam, then, a steady stream of brake fluid as ALL the air is displaced. Re-install the brake lines and you're done. Takes less than 5 minutes. You may need a piece of vacuum hose on the tip of the syringe for a leak free seal. After the Master cyl is bled, fill it up, and leave the top off. Pour yourself a cup of coffee and crack the RR wheel bleeder. Drink some coffee. Look at the bleeder. Drink some more coffee. Listen to the radio. Admire the lines of your GTO. When the bleeder starts to drip, close it off, and go to the LR. Do the same thing. Periodically check the fluid in the master cylinder. I tend to "gravity bleed" most of the brake jobs I do these days. It takes a bit longer, but you get no foaming and no air in the system. Many ways to skin this cat, and they all will get the job done. No beer when working on the brakes, just coffee or soda!!! Have fun.


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## thelarester (Dec 18, 2010)

I would definitely remove the master cylinder again and bench bleed it as this will make life a lot easier. After reinstalling, go around to all 4 wheels and crack the bleeders open and allow the system to gravity bleed with the master cylinder cover off. Use this time to take a break and find a buddy to briefly instruct on how to bleed brakes. Then... Close all the bleeders and then carry on as you would usually bleed brakes.


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