# Starter on a '66



## RON66 (Sep 11, 2009)

How do I get the starter off. Seems like I am going to have to jack the motor up to get it off.
Please advise....


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## paly57 (Jul 27, 2008)

You don't need to jack the motor up. Actually getting it off is not too hard but getting it back in can be a real pain. If you are alone, lying on your back,trying to reconnect the wires to the solonoid, keeping the shim (if you have one) in place, trying to get the mounting bolts stated while all the time holding the starter in position with your other hand, it can be very difficult. However, if you have someone to help you or you have access to a lift and a support stand it shouldn't be too bad. I replaced two the hard way. The last time I bought the repacement starter that I wanted and let an good independent mechanic install it. To me it was worth the money.


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## BYTOR84 (Mar 20, 2009)

I have a '67 so I assume they are the same. The starter is kind of difficult to get to. Best bet is to jack the car up as high as you can to give yourself some working room. The 2 starter bolts are a pain to get to so you will need a socket with an extension. But once you get under the car there is no need to jack up the motor. And like the other guy said putting it back in is a ROYAL PAIN in the tail !! There is no doubt you will need a helper to get it back up there. 

I also suggest putting a heat shield in if you do not already have one. These cars are known to have heat problems with the starters...so since you have it off might as well do it.
good luck !


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## my62toy (Jul 15, 2009)

*Just put mine into my 65*

I just finished putting my starter back in --- 3 times!!! Everything said so far is true. First time, I installed it, but did not like the way the wires were exposed. Very tight fit to the exhaust manifold. Did it again, with material type wire heat shielding, but still not confident that heat would not be an issue. 3rd time was a charm: Installed a proper heat shield, kept the material heat shield over the wires, and most important, devised a "support" on which to lift and hold the starter at a level where I could first connect the wires, and then slightly higher to be able to start the 2 long bolts. Piece of cake that time! Even properly installed the starter support brace!

Your first step may be to take off the flywheel cover. Often (for sure on mine) it interferes with getting the starter out. Not tough - just 4 self threading bolts. Also, you may have a support brace at the front of the starter. Simple nut to loosen, and move (may need to pry) the brace forward out of the way. Now your ready to take out the starter.

As stated, you have those 2 long bolts (down) holding the starter in place. Very visible and accessible. As you loosen those 2 bolts the starter may begin to come down. Of course, it's a real heavy item, so get those 2 long bolts loose but keep one loosely connected until your ready to support the weight as the starter comes free. Also be ready to disconnect the wires at the solenoid. They are normally not long enough to drop the starter to the ground and make it easy to disconnect, so here you are holding a heavy starter motor in the air and not enough hands, maybe not the right tools with you, to disconnect the wires. It's a juggling act! As said earlier, device some support base the let you at least take the weight of the starter so you can work on the wires with 2 hands.

Now you have it out (the easy part) you have to get it back in. With all this said, and considering the heat issue, give some thought to replacing the starter with one of those "mini" starters. I know --- not pure! But one heck of a lot easier, more efficient, easier to wire, and no more heat issues at the stater motor! If not, you need to reverse the steps above. Do install a proper heat shield, and get some help. The positive side of all this is you will feel proud having accomplished it!

Hope this helps!

Hal
Hal Vatcher's Web Site


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## goldfinger (Aug 9, 2009)

While we are on the subject how do we determine how many shims are needed and their thickness?


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## Too Many Projects (Nov 15, 2008)

goldfinger said:


> While we are on the subject how do we determine how many shims are needed and their thickness?


By leaving the inspection cover off after the starter is installed you can see the flex plate and nose cone. I also leave off the main cable from the battery at the solenoid but connect the 2 small wires. By turning the key, the solenoid will throw the Bendix into the flex plate but not run the starter to turn the engine over. If there is a small amount of play between the teeth on the Bendix and flex plate, it should good. If it binds or you can barely rock the Bendix, add shims to get about .010 movement.
You can put it all together and run the starter to see how it sounds too. If it makes that high pitched whining noise and a "zing" when the engine starts, it's too tight and then you add the shims. Adding shims should be a 5 minute job. Most quality shims have a slot on the end to the block. By removing the outer mounting bolt and loosening the inner, you can slide the shim onto the inner bolt and then replace the outer. If you get shims that aren't slotted at the block end, use a tin snip and cut it out so it is.


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## the65gto (Oct 9, 2008)

Maybe it is the brand of headers that I have, but I have to loosen the header and "jiggle" that along with all the other things when removing/installing. What a PITA. I would like to try one of those "smaller" starters next time I have an issue?


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## Too Many Projects (Nov 15, 2008)

I'M WRONG about the inspection cover. I'm so used to a Chevrolet that I didn't remember that the BOP bellhousing is different and the nose cone isn't accessible.


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## my62toy (Jul 15, 2009)

Too Many Projects said:


> I'M WRONG about the inspection cover. I'm so used to a Chevrolet that I didn't remember that the BOP bellhousing is different and the nose cone isn't accessible.


I make that "Chevy" comparison all too often. These Pontiac's are quite different in many ways.


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## Too Many Projects (Nov 15, 2008)

my62toy said:


> I make that "Chevy" comparison all too often. These Pontiac's are quite different in many ways.


Thanks......now I don't feel like the Lone Ranger....


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