# 65 GTO Gas Tank



## SLSTEVE (Dec 8, 2020)

Why do these Pontiac Restoration Parts Suppliers sell crap that doesn’t fit????? So I bought a new gas tank-doesn’t fit! Filler neck hits the bottom of the trunk pan when you put it in as far as the filler neck will allow it to fit. Bought this one from OPGI. Looked at Ames and their catalog clearly states that you have to bend the filler neck to get it installed! I am at my wits end with this build. I am going to wrap the solder joint where the filler neck joins the tank with a wet rag, and heat the upper third of the filler neck with a torch and bend that SOB until it fits or breaks!


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## pontrc (Mar 18, 2020)

Feel your pain , typical reproduction junk


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## armyadarkness (Dec 7, 2020)

SLSTEVE said:


> Why do these Pontiac Restoration Parts Suppliers sell crap that doesn’t fit????? So I bought a new gas tank-doesn’t fit! Filler neck hits the bottom of the trunk pan when you put it in as far as the filler neck will allow it to fit. Bought this one from OPGI. Looked at Ames and their catalog clearly states that you have to bend the filler neck to get it installed! I am at my wits end with this build. I am going to wrap the solder joint where the filler neck joins the tank with a wet rag, and heat the upper third of the filler neck with a torch and bend that SOB until it fits or breaks!


Yeah... I spent $100 on a hood scoop insert. I then machined out the openings and hand sanded/ blended the piece, which took about 4 hours. then I had paint made and I sprayed it to match the car. Then I installed it and it didn't remotely fit the car. Looked like I contract a kindergarten class to make it out of Playdoh. Of course, I can't return it now. So...

Yeah, I couldve test fit it first, and yeah... I could rework it and fix it to work right... But it would be much easier if the asshandlers who sold it to me, just made it fit what they said it would.


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## Joes1966GTO (Apr 27, 2020)

Sorry to hear that. I have a new gas tank coming up in my future (probably later this year). Please keep us posted as to how it works out. Anyone else out there have a good fix? Thanks.


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## 67ventwindow (Mar 3, 2020)

So what your are saying, Buy a Pontiac for Fabricating 101, 201, 301, 401 plus masters level and Doctoral thesis. If its going to be this difficult I will convert my tail lights to 66 after all. 

I think they market these parts for GTOs when it was designed for a Chevelle. I get the same thing with my mercury , Its a F$%d it will fit. Not even close. 

This is why I didnt throw out even the junk parts i got with my car. I my need them for a template to make a new part fit.

Best of luck. Let us know how it goes.


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## SLSTEVE (Dec 8, 2020)

67ventwindow said:


> So what your are saying, Buy a Pontiac for Fabricating 101, 201, 301, 401 plus masters level and Doctoral thesis. If its going to be this difficult I will convert my tail lights to 66 after all.
> 
> I think they market these parts for GTOs when it was designed for a Chevelle. I get the same thing with my mercury , Its a F$%d it will fit. Not even close.
> 
> ...


Rather than mess it all up by brutally trying to bend it, I think I am going to fit it back into place and get it situated as close as possible to the final position that it can get to. Then I am going to make a few strategically placed marks on it and then remove it and make a pie shaped slice out of it in the direction that the tube needs to bend. I will heat it up, bend it down to where the removed slice allows it to bend, test fit it. And repeat until the [email protected]!”,(()) thing goes in and looks like it will fit and function as OEM. Then I will weld up the neck and install it. WHY these “parts” suppliers keep selling this crap is beyond me. Not the first time for me and woefully not the last, in all probability.


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## GtoFM (Mar 23, 2018)

I read all the horror stories about fitment issues.. Auto Metal Direct (AMD) was closing out a lot of items, so when the tank was listed for 1/2 price, I gambled. Well the money I saved will be spent on adjustments. I know the drill, Measure Twice, Cut Once. I compared dimensions with the original tank. Length & width good. Height and filler neck length were off. I called Customer Service, "It should fit."

1. Filler neck bent towards the left. Ck the pics in almost all catalogs and it is evident. I think there may only be a couple of manufacturers supplying the sellers. Customer service (CS) blamed it on shipper and suggested warming it with heat gun and gently massage into position. They would replace it if joint cracked. It worked.

2. LxW was good but height was 1/2" to 3/4" strong. CS said that is the spec and it should fit. It some-what fit after adjusting straps and using longer bolts. However the filler neck is too short. I had noted that to CS also before mock up.

CS said they sold 25 or 30 units the previous year and NEVER had issues, BS. If that is the case, why close them out. I sent side by side pics. They said I must have a SPECIAL design '64 GTO! REALLY? They will take it back for full refund except shipping. Even though it's their mfg. mistake, I'm on the hook for return shipping which is almost the cost of the tank. I kept the tank thinking if I get a line on a mfg. that makes them correctly, I can give this to someone with the skill and patience to deal with it.

Bottom line: The filler neck is inserted too far into the tank. I'm taking it to a local radiator and gas tank repair shop the next burg over for an estimate. He said they can match it to the original tank, which I still have.

Frustrating, but if it was easy, everybody would be doing it.


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## O52 (Jan 27, 2019)

What brand were the tanks gentlemen?


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## SLSTEVE (Dec 8, 2020)

O52 said:


> What brand were the tanks gentlemen?


Who knows? Mine is proudly stamped Made in Taiwan on the top. Looks pretty but fits sh$&&y! To compound my problem, the rear frame piece was bumped up and inward a bit. I put the back of the frame on a couple of Jack stands, stuck a hefty hunk of 3 inch angle iron under them and hooked my industrial come along under the angle iron and to the bent frame. A few pulls and the frame moved to where I thought it should be. Another couple of clicks for good measure, allowing for the spring back factor, and called it good. Of course, with my luck, this will come back to haunt me further on in this build, but I will deal with THAT upcoming problem when it rears its ugly head.


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## GtoFM (Mar 23, 2018)

I was told mine was a Spectra. It's stamped 37F 
18 0830


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## SLSTEVE (Dec 8, 2020)

GtoFM said:


> I was told mine was a Spectra. It's stamped 37F
> 18 0830


Can’t verify manufacturer, but here’s a picture of the stamping. Does anyone have an OE tank that they could take a couple of pictures of the filler neck? Here is my offending misfit.


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## 67ventwindow (Mar 3, 2020)

I might have one laying around









.I will get you a picture tomorrow if no one has one. According to the Ames it should be the same as a 67. 

Looking at spectra web site I have a GM37H which would be right for a 65-67 GTO. a GM37L which fits a 65 LeMans no vent pipe . the GM37F is for 64 no vent pipe. I dont know if any of that is correct.


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## GtoFM (Mar 23, 2018)

My pics won't help since it's a '64. There is no "GM" stamping in front of the 37F on my tank so I think it may be a Spectra clone made for AMD.


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## O52 (Jan 27, 2019)

Hmmm, Genuine Spectra is made in Canada and supposedly high quality. You can buy them at Auto Zone.

65 Product

64 Product


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## armyadarkness (Dec 7, 2020)

SLSTEVE said:


> Rather than mess it all up by brutally trying to bend it, I think I am going to fit it back into place and get it situated as close as possible to the final position that it can get to. Then I am going to make a few strategically placed marks on it and then remove it and make a pie shaped slice out of it in the direction that the tube needs to bend. I will heat it up, bend it down to where the removed slice allows it to bend, test fit it. And repeat until the [email protected]!”,(()) thing goes in and looks like it will fit and function as OEM. Then I will weld up the neck and install it. WHY these “parts” suppliers keep selling this crap is beyond me. Not the first time for me and woefully not the last, in all probability.


I'm proud of of and your determination. Just be mindful that it's the filler neck. Gas already shoots out of the thing, during fill-up's, without any help from you! lol!!! So while you're doing it, think about the flow! Can you just weld the old neck on the new tank?


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## armyadarkness (Dec 7, 2020)

SLSTEVE said:


> Can’t verify manufacturer, but here’s a picture of the stamping. Does anyone have an OE tank that they could take a couple of pictures of the filler neck? Here is my offending misfit.
> View attachment 141568
> View attachment 141569


Well, you can always bring it to jersey and I'll tig it for you.


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## armyadarkness (Dec 7, 2020)

A few months back, I was considering going fuel injected. If I did, I was going to buy the FI ready fuel tank. I wonder if they have the same issues? They were very cheap on Summit and Butler.


https://butlerperformance.com/i-25178185-1965-67-pontiac-gto-and-1966-67-lemans-fuel-injection-gas-tank-tan-tm37h-t.html?ref=search:https%3A%2F%2Fbutlerperformance.com%2Fsearch.html%3Fq%3Dfuel%2Btanks


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## armyadarkness (Dec 7, 2020)

It looks like they use a rubber coupler, which many companies used, right from the factory. I don't see Butler selling something that didn't work well.


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## SLSTEVE (Dec 8, 2020)

67ventwindow said:


> I might have one laying around
> View attachment 141573
> 
> 
> ...


Hey 67vent,
Is that the infamous gas tank you referred to in an earlier thread???


armyadarkness said:


> I'm proud of of and your determination. Just be mindful that it's the filler neck. Gas already shoots out of the thing, during fill-up's, without any help from you! lol!!! So while you're doing it, think about the flow! Can you just weld the old neck on the new tank?


That would be a possibility IF I had an old filler neck from an old tank. Didn’t have that luxury with this one. All I got was a roller body with this one!


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## SLSTEVE (Dec 8, 2020)

armyadarkness said:


> Well, you can always bring it to jersey and I'll tig it for you.


Thanks for the offer Jimmy V but I’m a retired pipe fitter. I’m a certified welder, and can MIG and TIG with the best of them. Would be a fun trip though.


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## SLSTEVE (Dec 8, 2020)

SLSTEVE said:


> Hey 67vent,
> Is that the infamous gas tank you referred to in an earlier thread???
> 
> That would be a possibility IF I had an old filler neck from an old tank. Didn’t have that luxury with this one. All I got was a roller body with this one!
> Wonder if I could just buy the filler neck? If I could find the correct neck think I could just pull the offending neck out and solder the new neck in. Looks like a solder joint.


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## 67ventwindow (Mar 3, 2020)

SLSTEVE said:


> Hey 67vent,
> Is that the infamous gas tank you referred to in an earlier thread???


Yes it is (Why use 2 straps when one will drop it on your trailer?). but if your after the 10 gallons of 30 year old cologne its gone. Sorry.



SLSTEVE said:


> Thanks for the offer Jimmy V but I’m a retired pipe fitter. I’m a certified welder, and can MIG and TIG with the best of them. Would be a fun trip though.


 Well I weld like a farmer. My Dad would do welding for farmers in Tennessee. Something about farming rock tends to break things. My brother took the interest in welding and blacksmithing. I took after the farmers and broke things. They always said I was left on the door step. Its not wrong to use T posts for bracing is it?


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## Joes1966GTO (Apr 27, 2020)

Hey Steve, this is the OE from my '66. Does this help?


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## armyadarkness (Dec 7, 2020)

Joes1966GTO said:


> Hey Steve, this is the OE from my '66. Does this help?
> View attachment 141575
> View attachment 141576
> View attachment 141577
> ...


Based on your picture, I'd say that his is either DEAD WRONG, or at the least, welded upside down.


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## SLSTEVE (Dec 8, 2020)

Joes1966GTO said:


> Hey Steve, this is the OE from my '66. Does this help?
> View attachment 141575
> View attachment 141576
> View attachment 141577
> ...


Thank you for taking the time to take the pictures, but wow! Is that filler neck even soldered in? Is it loose? Looks like it would stick straight out under the bumper on my 65! I would take a similar picture today for comparison purposes, but it’s snowing AGAIN here today, with a high of only 30, so maybe tomorrow. But again thank you, I appreciate ALL of the help that I , and others receive here.


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## SLSTEVE (Dec 8, 2020)

67ventwindow said:


> Yes it is (Why use 2 straps when one will drop it on your trailer?). but if your after the 10 gallons of 30 year old cologne its gone. Sorry.
> 
> 
> 
> Well I weld like a farmer. My Dad would do welding for farmers in Tennessee. Something about farming rock tends to break things. My brother took the interest in welding and blacksmithing. I took after the farmers and broke things. They always said I was left on the door step. Its not wrong to use T posts for bracing is it?


Sorry 67, couldn’t tell you anything about T posts. Have no idea what a T post is for-fencing maybe? I like US Grant’s idea for a fence. He used rifle barrels from the Civil War.


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## Joes1966GTO (Apr 27, 2020)

Hey Steve, actually, it must just be the pic, because the attachment between the filler neck and tank is rock solid. Now that you mention it, looking at the picture, it does look pretty flimsy, but in actually it's really strong. I can take other pictures or other angles later if you want. Just let me know what you need. I can't find any stamping #'s on it, because the previous owner decided to spray everything with that sh**ty rubberized undercoating everywhere. Sorry to hear about your lousy weather. We've had it cold here in the Northeast, but luckily its beautiful here today. Let me know if there would be any other pictures that might be helpful.


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## Joes1966GTO (Apr 27, 2020)

Hey Steve, this is just a thought, but this company has what appears to be the right tank.....or at least the correct filler tube. Maybe they'll sell you just the neck. 1965-1967 Pontiac GTO, Lemans, Tempest Fuel Tank.


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## armyadarkness (Dec 7, 2020)

Yeah. Wow... Looks completely different than yours, Steve.


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## Joes1966GTO (Apr 27, 2020)

SLSTEVE said:


> Thank you for taking the time to take the pictures, but wow! Is that filler neck even soldered in? Is it loose? Looks like it would stick straight out under the bumper on my 65! I would take a similar picture today for comparison purposes, but it’s snowing AGAIN here today, with a high of only 30, so maybe tomorrow. But again thank you, I appreciate ALL of the help that I , and others receive here.


One last thought, Steve, is that I didn't realize earlier that in the pics I sent, the tank is leaning down toward the rear fairly significantly, so the filler neck does look low. (laid it on the back of an old pickup) Look at the pics again, noting the angle of the flat top of the tank, which, when attached to the car, would be parallel to the ground, or even angled upwards in the rear. This would mean that the filler neck would be angling upwards quite a bit more that it appears in the picture. I would say that once bolted to the car, the gas cap/filler neck end would be 5-6 inches higher than it appears on the photo. (I'm pretty sure that the '65-'67s are the same, so I'm guessing that the angle should be right for your 65 as well........at least I hope!). Keep us posted and good luck!


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## SLSTEVE (Dec 8, 2020)

Joes1966GTO said:


> Hey Steve, actually, it must just be the pic, because the attachment between the filler neck and tank is rock solid. Now that you mention it, looking at the picture, it does look pretty flimsy, but in actually it's really strong. I can take other pictures or other angles later if you want. Just let me know what you need. I can't find any stamping #'s on it, because the previous owner decided to spray everything with that sh**ty rubberized undercoating everywhere. Sorry to hear about your lousy weather. We've had it cold here in the Northeast, but luckily its beautiful here today. Let me know if there would be any other pictures that might be helpful.


Hi Joe,
I looked at my car today and I believe that YOUR tank would fit right into it. Looks like a somewhat “straight” filler neck may fit. After someone else suggested that Spectra was a good company and that AutoZone carried them I did some checking. AZ apparently doesn’t carry them here so I looked at Oreillys and they had a similar looking filler neck equipped tank so I ordered one. Almost $200 with overnight shipping so I will get it TOMORROW! Hey, if it doesn’t fit I have an OReillys five minutes away and it will go back. What do I have to lose? I have the first tank from OPGI that I can’t send back, so if this new one won’t fit, I will dissect the first one and MAKE it fit! Thanks for everyone’s input again.


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## SLSTEVE (Dec 8, 2020)

Joes1966GTO said:


> One last thought, Steve, is that I didn't realize earlier that in the pics I sent, the tank is leaning down toward the rear fairly significantly, so the filler neck does look low. (laid it on the back of an old pickup) Look at the pics again, noting the angle of the flat top of the tank, which, when attached to the car, would be parallel to the ground, or even angled upwards in the rear. This would mean that the filler neck would be angling upwards quite a bit more that it appears in the picture. I would say that once bolted to the car, the gas cap/filler neck end would be 5-6 inches higher than it appears on the photo. (I'm pretty sure that the '65-'67s are the same, so I'm guessing that the angle should be right for your 65 as well........at least I hope!). Keep us posted and good luck!
> Joe,
> Thanks to your photo, and some sage advice from other forum members, I ended up ordering a gas tank last night. AND IT WAS DELIVERED TODAY! I had to pay overnight shipping-a whopping $10.50! You’ll never guess where I ordered it from- O’Reilly’s! I really really have a hard time wondering why these Pontiac Parts “specialists” that sell Pontiac specific parts all day everyday can’t seem to sell a gas tank that fits while O’Reilly’s can. I was totally skeptical that the tank would be right but it fit like a glove and is installed. Don’t know what I’m going to do with this other POS. I have a buddy doing a Chevelle, maybe it will fit in that? So, thanks everyone that offered encouragement and advice on this latest dilemma, stay tuned, I’m sure there will be more. Oh and by the way, the installed tank WAS made in Canada. I will post a picture of the label on the box.


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## Greg Hill (Jul 15, 2020)

SLSTEVE said:


> Why do these Pontiac Restoration Parts Suppliers sell crap that doesn’t fit????? So I bought a new gas tank-doesn’t fit! Filler neck hits the bottom of the trunk pan when you put it in as far as the filler neck will allow it to fit. Bought this one from OPGI. Looked at Ames and their catalog clearly states that you have to bend the filler neck to get it installed! I am at my wits end with this build. I am going to wrap the solder joint where the filler neck joins the tank with a wet rag, and heat the upper third of the filler neck with a torch and bend that SOB until it fits or breaks!


Just cut the neck and use a piece of fuel resistant rubber hose to go back together. 67 Firebird is like that from the factory.


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## SLSTEVE (Dec 8, 2020)

Greg Hill said:


> Just cut the neck and use a piece of fuel resistant rubber hose to go back together. 67 Firebird is like that from the factory.


I was going to make a pie slice in the filler neck, and then bend the neck down to where it fit, then weld the neck and be done with it. End up buying a new tank from O’Reilly’s, got it overnighted(for 10.50!), and put it in today. Fit like a glove. Got an extra tank that doesn’t fit a 65 GTO if you need one.


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## NYGTO2018 (Oct 1, 2018)

SLSTEVE said:


> Why do these Pontiac Restoration Parts Suppliers sell crap that doesn’t fit????? So I bought a new gas tank-doesn’t fit! Filler neck hits the bottom of the trunk pan when you put it in as far as the filler neck will allow it to fit. Bought this one from OPGI. Looked at Ames and their catalog clearly states that you have to bend the filler neck to get it installed! I am at my wits end with this build. I am going to wrap the solder joint where the filler neck joins the tank with a wet rag, and heat the upper third of the filler neck with a torch and bend that SOB until it fits or breaks!
> [/QUOTE


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## NYGTO2018 (Oct 1, 2018)

I learned years ago not to buy from OPGI. The quality and fit are substantially substandard.


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## LATECH (Jul 18, 2018)

GtoFM said:


> I was told mine was a Spectra. It's stamped 37F
> 18 0830


My Tank was also a spectra.It fit perfectly.


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## franco67 (Aug 21, 2010)

SLSTEVE said:


> Why do these Pontiac Restoration Parts Suppliers sell crap that doesn’t fit????? So I bought a new gas tank-doesn’t fit! Filler neck hits the bottom of the trunk pan when you put it in as far as the filler neck will allow it to fit. Bought this one from OPGI. Looked at Ames and their catalog clearly states that you have to bend the filler neck to get it installed! I am at my wits end with this build. I am going to wrap the solder joint where the filler neck joins the tank with a wet rag, and heat the upper third of the filler neck with a torch and bend that SOB until it fits or breaks!


I got mine from Quanta, Rising Sun MD GasTanks.com - Over 500 models of gas tanks for your car, truck or van great fit for my 67 GTO. I believe locally made.


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## GTOJUNIOR (Aug 7, 2011)

The one for this '66 was way off as well, not sure if it was made this way or tweaked during shipping.
A 2' wooden rod was used to re-align it and it fits/clears fine now.


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## SLSTEVE (Dec 8, 2020)

NYGTO2018 said:


> I learned years ago not to buy from OPGI. The quality and fit are substantially substandard.


I am going to call OPGI today and start with the poor schmuck that is in customer service. I am going to voice my displeasure with this item and DEMAND a full refund. If he can’t give me what I want I am going to go up the ladder until I talk to someone that can give me a measure of satisfaction. I spent a lot of money with OPGI on this build. Most of the parts were good, some were questionable, a couple were marginal, and this gas tank was totally wrong! Will probably fall on deaf ears, but I guarantee that I am going to ruin somebody’s day today. 40 years of construction interaction with some of the meanest, toughest, most hard headed, stupid morons taught me how to communicate with people. Stay tuned...


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## Joes1966GTO (Apr 27, 2020)

Hey Steve,
Thanks - I am really glad to see that you got something to work for you. It really sucks that you got such a poor product. You should be getting what you pay your hard earned money for.
**Just for FYI, though, I did talk to another GTO owner who said that they got a gas tank from Ames (with the filler neck) for his 67 and it was a good fit. Don't know if that helps anyone else, but just thought I'd throw it out there.

I don't have a ton of experience, but always want to help if I can. So many great folks on this forum are far more knowledgable than me and have given me some great advice and help. This forum is really worth it's weight in gold. Thanks to all who provide guidance and input! 

Steve, please keep us posted as to your progress and let us know how things go. I've ordered only a few things from OPGI and they were great, so I am hoping that it you make some noise, they will respond appropriately. Send them the link to this forum, so they can see the pictures and KNOW that there are a lot of GTO guys and girls out there who are seeing the experience that you've had with their tank. That should give them incentive to up their game. They might not care as much about one person's complaints, but it they know the whole GTO Forum is seeing this mess, they might make sure you get better service next time. Good luck. Keep us in the loop.


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## Kelly Rowe (Feb 10, 2021)

GtoFM said:


> I read all the horror stories about fitment issues.. Auto Metal Direct (AMD) was closing out a lot of items, so when the tank was listed for 1/2 price, I gambled. Well the money I saved will be spent on adjustments. I know the drill, Measure Twice, Cut Once. I compared dimensions with the original tank. Length & width good. Height and filler neck length were off. I called Customer Service, "It should fit."
> 
> 1. Filler neck bent towards the left. Ck the pics in almost all catalogs and it is evident. I think there may only be a couple of manufacturers supplying the sellers. Customer service (CS) blamed it on shipper and suggested warming it with heat gun and gently massage into position. They would replace it if joint cracked. It worked.
> 
> ...


Buy from Summit Racing if you can. They pay shipping on any returns.


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## SLSTEVE (Dec 8, 2020)

Kelly Rowe said:


> Buy from Summit Racing if you can. They pay shipping on any returns.


Great to know but way too late for this incident.


Joes1966GTO said:


> Hey Steve,
> Thanks - I am really glad to see that you got something to work for you. It really sucks that you got such a poor product. You should be getting what you pay your hard earned money for.
> **Just for FYI, though, I did talk to another GTO owner who said that they got a gas tank from Ames (with the filler neck) for his 67 and it was a good fit. Don't know if that helps anyone else, but just thought I'd throw it out there.
> 
> ...


Thanks Joe. I will let everyone know how the conversation with OPGI goes. While we are on the gas tank thread, I have a couple of new questions that this “new” tank installation has brought to the forefront. The first tank, the non fitting one, did not have the fill vent tube on the filler neck. The new tank does. Looking at various book material, it appears that the fill vent piping ends up inside the trunk. I don’t have a hole drilled in the trunk pan for this and I believe my trunk floor is original. Should I put this in? My second question is how does the wiring get to the fuel sending unit? Looks like there is a plug in the middle of the trunk floor towards the rear. Seems like an odd place to run wiring as it would be in the way of everything. Is there a hole for the wiring someplace else?
Thanks for everyone’s input as always.


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## 67ventwindow (Mar 3, 2020)

SLSTEVE said:


> I am going to call OPGI today and start with the poor schmuck that is in customer service. I am going to voice my displeasure with this item and DEMAND a full refund. If he can’t give me what I want I am going to go up the ladder until I talk to someone that can give me a measure of satisfaction. I spent a lot of money with OPGI on this build. Most of the parts were good, some were questionable, a couple were marginal, and this gas tank was totally wrong! Will probably fall on deaf ears, but I guarantee that I am going to ruin somebody’s day today. 40 years of construction interaction with some of the meanest, toughest, most hard headed, stupid morons taught me how to communicate with people. Stay tuned...


I would rather talk to hard headed person , than an engineer that thinks he has the answer before you ask the question. That what I have been facing at work. We usally jusy bypass them and get it done. Only go back to them when you know that your question fits their answer.


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## SLSTEVE (Dec 8, 2020)

67ventwindow said:


> I would rather talk to hard headed person , than an engineer that thinks he has the answer before you ask the question. That what I have been facing at work. We usally jusy bypass them and get it done. Only go back to them when you know that your question fits their answer.


Exactly 67. Engineers KNOW everything, you are just wasting their time with your trivialities.


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## O52 (Jan 27, 2019)

SLSTEVE said:


> While we are on the gas tank thread, I have a couple of new questions that this “new” tank installation has brought to the forefront. The first tank, the non fitting one, did not have the fill vent tube on the filler neck. The new tank does. Looking at various book material, it appears that the fill vent piping ends up inside the trunk. I don’t have a hole drilled in the trunk pan for this and I believe my trunk floor is original. Should I put this in? My second question is how does the wiring get to the fuel sending unit? Looks like there is a plug in the middle of the trunk floor towards the rear. Seems like an odd place to run wiring as it would be in the way of everything. Is there a hole for the wiring someplace else?
> Thanks for everyone’s input as always.



The fuel gauge wiring follows the tail light wiring inside the trunk and exits next to the license plate light wire. It then goes over the top of the tank to the sending unit. There is also a ground wire that attaches from the sending unit to the exterior trunk floor
Diagram from a 70 but yours should similar


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## SLSTEVE (Dec 8, 2020)

O52 said:


> The fuel gauge wiring follows the tail light wiring inside the trunk and exits next to the license plate light wire. It then goes over the top of the tank to the sending unit. There is also a ground wire that attaches from the sending unit to the exterior trunk floor
> Diagram from a 70 but yours should similar
> 
> View attachment 141624


Thanks, GTOTIGER sent me a picture of his 65 and on that year, the wiring goes down to the sending unit under the rear seat. I was looking in the wrong section of the car. I added a fuel return line on the advice of my engine builder. I know a/c equipped cars had the return line, I guess to keep cooler fuel getting into the carburetor. Would that be part of a package that included this fuel filler vent, or is that a totally different animal? My car had no provision for the vent and I am pretty sure that the trunk pan is OE. Just wondering if some cars had the vents and others didn't and what the reasons were.


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## SLSTEVE (Dec 8, 2020)

Joes1966GTO said:


> Hey Steve,
> Thanks - I am really glad to see that you got something to work for you. It really sucks that you got such a poor product. You should be getting what you pay your hard earned money for.
> **Just for FYI, though, I did talk to another GTO owner who said that they got a gas tank from Ames (with the filler neck) for his 67 and it was a good fit. Don't know if that helps anyone else, but just thought I'd throw it out there.
> 
> ...


OK, just got off the phone with OPGI. Their policy is no parts can be returned after 45 days. That is from their shipping date. Customer Service Rep was very nice and understanding so I didn't have to go ballistic on her. Told her that I found the correct tank at O'Reilly's of all places and that I ordered it on Tuesday night and received it on Wednesday afternoon after paying the princely sum of $10.50 for overnight shipping. Wouldn't you know for some reason, the gas tank was one of the first things I ordered for this build. Back in December of last year, so way past the 45 day window. Seems to me they were having a sale on gas tanks, or some odd reason-don't really remember now. Anyway, she took pity on me and said she would take it back. I said that I wanted a return shipping slip and she refused that request. And she said it would require a 20% restocking fee. And I countered with the fact that it had to be for a different model car, as there was NO WAY it was going to fit a 65 GTO. They sent me the wrong part so they should pay for shipping back to them. She refused, so I told her to cancel the stuff on backorder(about $600.00), and that I wanted a refund on a bunch of stuff that I got recently(about $400). She said OK, no problem. I got NO satisfaction from that conversation, really. Guess I will sell this POS tank to a Rat Rodder or somebody else. Really hate to try and pawn it off to someone building a GTO or other GM A Body car. Maybe someone with a decent neck could buy it and replace the neck with theirs and use this tank? Anyway, end of saga, end of story. I'll move on to bigger and better things. Thanks to everyone for the information, advice and encouragement. I'm certain there will be more needed down the road.


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## O52 (Jan 27, 2019)

I have never had a problem returning items to :

NPD
Summit
Amazon

Depending on the value, NPD will just send you the right part without you having to return the wrong one. 
Inline Tube sells on Amazon
Ames, Inline Tube and Parts Place sell on Ebay which has its own peculiar return system.


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## Joes1966GTO (Apr 27, 2020)

Wow, so sorry Steve, that is no bueno.
Well, I guess that OPGI's reputation will just be taking another big hit amongst the folks who would have previously patronized them. I won't be buying from them again, after this, that's for sure.
Good luck, Sir.....we look forward to watching your progress.


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## SLSTEVE (Dec 8, 2020)

O52 said:


> I have never had a problem returning items to :
> 
> NPD
> Summit
> ...


Yep I have made my last purchase from OPGI. To sell that kind of product specific part that won’t even fit that application, then not accept a return, unless
making it economically unfeasible to the buyer is unacceptable in my opinion. Guess I’ll be buying from other vendors from now on. Too bad for OPGI.


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## SLSTEVE (Dec 8, 2020)

Joes1966GTO said:


> Wow, so sorry Steve, that is no bueno.
> Well, I guess that OPGI's reputation will just be taking another big hit amongst the folks who would have previously patronized them. I won't be buying from them again, after this, that's for sure.
> Good luck, Sir.....we look forward to watching your progress.


Thanks Joe. Got the gas tank all hooked up today. Figured out the path for the fuel sending unit thanks to GTOTIGER. I was looking in the trunk area and it’s in the rear seat tray, right below the package tray. I guess I will slowly add some gas into the tank and check all the lines for leaks, then try to fire the engine. Have to fix a coolant leak on the lower radiator hose first. Never had a hose leak and resist every effort to curtail it like this one. I’m thinking there may be a crack in the timing chain cover outlet. THAT would be a major step backward.


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## SLSTEVE (Dec 8, 2020)

SLSTEVE said:


> Thanks Joe. Got the gas tank all hooked up today. Figured out the path for the fuel sending unit thanks to GTOTIGER. I was looking in the trunk area and it’s in the rear seat tray, right below the package tray. I guess I will slowly add some gas into the tank and check all the lines for leaks, then try to fire the engine. Have to fix a coolant leak on the lower radiator hose first. Never had a hose leak and resist every effort to curtail it like this one. I’m thinking there may be a crack in the timing chain cover outlet. THAT would be a major step backward.


Tried firing the engine and no start. Engine cranked, sounded like it wanted to fire, but didn’t. Changed course and
pulled number one plug. Cranked until #1 had compression. Went to align timing mark with TDC and found two timing marks on balancer. Whats up with that? Guess I can check # 1 piston travel to determine true TDC and then paint whichever line is on 0. Think my problem may lie with my carburetor. It’s a new 750 CFM Edelbrock that I had rebuilt because I didn’t know it’s history. Any opinions on this carb? Would love to have a Carter like original, but where to find one? Tired of pouring money into this build.


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## armyadarkness (Dec 7, 2020)

SLSTEVE said:


> I am going to call OPGI today and start with the poor schmuck that is in customer service. I am going to voice my displeasure with this item and DEMAND a full refund. If he can’t give me what I want I am going to go up the ladder until I talk to someone that can give me a measure of satisfaction. I spent a lot of money with OPGI on this build. Most of the parts were good, some were questionable, a couple were marginal, and this gas tank was totally wrong! Will probably fall on deaf ears, but I guarantee that I am going to ruin somebody’s day today. 40 years of construction interaction with some of the meanest, toughest, most hard headed, stupid morons taught me how to communicate with people. Stay tuned...


If this job went easy, I wouldve thought you were an imposter!


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## armyadarkness (Dec 7, 2020)

SLSTEVE said:


> Tried firing the engine and no start. Engine cranked, sounded like it wanted to fire, but didn’t. Changed course and
> pulled number one plug. Cranked until #1 had compression. Went to align timing mark with TDC and found two timing marks on balancer. Whats up with that? Guess I can check # 1 piston travel to determine true TDC and then paint whichever line is on 0. Think my problem may lie with my carburetor. It’s a new 750 CFM Edelbrock that I had rebuilt because I didn’t know it’s history. Any opinions on this carb? Would love to have a Carter like original, but where to find one? Tired of pouring money into this build.


I have an Edelbrock 650 on my vette and an 850 on the GTO. I can rebuild them with my eyes closed. Call or text if you get jammed up. Those carbs cant have more than 6psi of fuel pressure, in order to run well, but it should still start. A stock fule pump can easill have enough pressure to push fuel past the needles, so it could run rich. Sounds like your timing might be off. Check the TDC on number one, *run the wires counter clockwise on the cap, *and try again. If not, check for spark. 

If you have carb questions, LMK.


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## SLSTEVE (Dec 8, 2020)

armyadarkness said:


> I have an Edelbrock 650 on my vette and an 850 on the GTO. I can rebuild them with my eyes closed. Call or text if you get jammed up. Those carbs cant have more than 6psi of fuel pressure, in order to run well, but it should still start. A stock fule pump can easill have enough pressure to push fuel past the needles, so it could run rich. Sounds like your timing might be off. Check the TDC on number one, *run the wires counter clockwise on the cap, *and try again. If not, check for spark.
> 
> If you have carb questions, LMK.


Thanks Jimmy. Cranked her until I had compression on number one. Went to put timing mark on balancer to zero on timing mark, but there are TWO lines on balancer! What is that? Is that normal for Pontiac’s?Guess I will set up a dial indicator down the spark plug hole to find true TDC then mark whichever line is on the zero mark with white paint and then go off that line to set timing. I’m thinking the carb is not right even though it looked new when I acquired it and I still took it in and had it rebuilt at a local carb shop. I will check the fuel pump pressure but does it need to be running? Or will cranking pressure be enough?


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## armyadarkness (Dec 7, 2020)

SLSTEVE said:


> Thanks Jimmy. Cranked her until I had compression on number one. Went to put timing mark on balancer to zero on timing mark, but there are TWO lines on balancer! What is that? Is that normal for Pontiac’s?Guess I will set up a dial indicator down the spark plug hole to find true TDC then mark whichever line is on the zero mark with white paint and then go off that line to set timing. I’m thinking the carb is not right even though it looked new when I acquired it and I still took it in and had it rebuilt at a local carb shop. I will check the fuel pump pressure but does it need to be running? Or will cranking pressure be enough?


I have seen two marks before, but no it's normal to have them. With both vlaves closed and the piston at TDC, you'll know which is which. You could get an estimate of pressure from cranking, bu tagain, the pressure issue with Ede's is more of tuning pain than a starting pain. 

Get the timing mark right. Then check for spark. Once that's verified, move on to fuel. You did see my post about counter clockwise, right?


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## armyadarkness (Dec 7, 2020)

BTW, Ede carbs get a bad rap, but I adore them and they're a pleasure to tune.


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## armyadarkness (Dec 7, 2020)

Plus, many of our cars came with Carters anyway.


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## SLSTEVE (Dec 8, 2020)

armyadarkness said:


> I have seen two marks before, but no it's normal to have them. With both vlaves closed and the piston at TDC, you'll know which is which. You could get an estimate of pressure from cranking, bu tagain, the pressure issue with Ede's is more of tuning pain than a starting pain.
> 
> Get the timing mark right. Then check for spark. Once that's verified, move on to fuel. You did see my post about counter clockwise, right?


Yep CCW, got it. 18436572. Check for spark with a timing light?


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## armyadarkness (Dec 7, 2020)

SLSTEVE said:


> Yep CCW, got it. 18436572. Check for spark with a timing light?


Okay, good on the CCW. No, on the timing light. Test for spark by plugging one of these in-line between the number one plug and wire. It's a spark tester. $10 at any auto store or Harbor Fright.


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## armyadarkness (Dec 7, 2020)

When you turn the engine over, this will light up if you have spark.


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## SLSTEVE (Dec 8, 2020)

armyadarkness said:


> When you turn the engine over, this will light up if you have spark.


So does a timing light


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## armyadarkness (Dec 7, 2020)

SLSTEVE said:


> So does a timing light


That sounds like a bit of a pain, but if you're happy, then check spark however you can. The point is, until you're verified to be producing spark when the #1 piston is at TDC, I wouldn't even bother with the carb.


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## armyadarkness (Dec 7, 2020)

2 Timing Hash Marks on Balancer?


I got my rebuilt 455 running. Idles and everything, but when I give it gas it backfires thru the carb. I'm guessing timing. It seems odd, but it looks like my balancer has 2 distinct timing hash marks on it about 8-12 degrees apart? Is the first hash supposed to line up with the 0 on the...




www.gtoforum.com


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## gtomike455 (May 24, 2020)

SLSTEVE said:


> Why do these Pontiac Restoration Parts Suppliers sell crap that doesn’t fit????? So I bought a new gas tank-doesn’t fit! Filler neck hits the bottom of the trunk pan when you put it in as far as the filler neck will allow it to fit. Bought this one from OPGI. Looked at Ames and their catalog clearly states that you have to bend the filler neck to get it installed! I am at my wits end with this build. I am going to wrap the solder joint where the filler neck joins the tank with a wet rag, and heat the upper third of the filler neck with a torch and bend that SOB until it fits or breaks!


i bought mine at NPD & it fit perfect. i don't remember who made it though.


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## SLSTEVE (Dec 8, 2020)

armyadarkness said:


> That sounds like a bit of a pain, but if you're happy, then check spark however you can. The point is, until you're verified to be producing spark when the #1 piston is at TDC, I wouldn't even bother with the carb.


OK got her running, but with progress comes misfortune(at least with me anyway). NOW it looks like I need a different crank pulley. Anyone have a 65 crank pulley, 7.25OD, 2 groove, Part Number 9778802? That is what the Restoration Guide says I need. While I'm at it(know this is the wrong forum), I also need a rear lower shock bolt that attaches the shock to the rearend, a trunk lock retainer clip and a steering column support bracket. I might really be able to get this baby built soon at this rate!


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## Herding Goats (Sep 16, 2017)

gtomike455 said:


> i bought mine at NPD & it fit perfect. i don't remember who made it though.


On the subject of parts suppliers... I've placed one order from OPGI for '70 grill brackets and half of them were wrong and needed modification. Their pricing is usually higher than anyone else's for the same repro parts but I could not find those elsewhere. Pretty sure "OP" stands for "Over Priced". Unfortunately, lots of this repro stuff does not fit well or is even the wrong part (Chevelle fuel tank sending units, Chrysler door panel clips, exploding headlight adjusters, etc.). I can't begin to count the hours spent "fixing" new repro parts. I always try to avoid them when I can but wouldn't have a complete car without some. I have thrown out a lot of parts that were bought too soon on a project only to find out they are junk or wrong.
As mentioned above Ames is pretty good about mentioning the quality of a part and adjustments needed. NPD customer service out of Michigan has been very good to deal with. Not so much the Florida location and online parts ordering. Best to call them. Keep those goats runnin'!


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## SLSTEVE (Dec 8, 2020)

Herding Goats said:


> On the subject of parts suppliers... I've placed one order from OPGI for '70 grill brackets and half of them were wrong and needed modification. Their pricing is usually higher than anyone else's for the same repro parts but I could not find those elsewhere. Pretty sure "OP" stands for "Over Priced". Unfortunately, lots of this repro stuff does not fit well or is even the wrong part (Chevelle fuel tank sending units, Chrysler door panel clips, exploding headlight adjusters, etc.). I can't begin to count the hours spent "fixing" new repro parts. I always try to avoid them when I can but wouldn't have a complete car without some. I have thrown out a lot of parts that were bought too soon on a project only to find out they are junk or wrong.
> As mentioned above Ames is pretty good about mentioning the quality of a part and adjustments needed. NPD customer service out of Michigan has been very good to deal with. Not so much the Florida location and online parts ordering. Best to call them. Keep those goats runnin'!


The gas tank I bought from them(OPGI) was wrong. The tank itself fit nicely between the frame rails but the neck hit the bottom of the trunk extension so there was a 1 to 1 1/2 inch gap between the top of the tank and the underside of the trunk floor. The filler neck would have had to be bent 2 to 3 inches downward for it to go into place. I called them and told them it was the wrong tank and she said it was the correct one. I wanted to send it back but it was way past their 45 day return window. I insisted and she relented. She said send it back and there will be a 20% restocking fee and you have to pay return shipping. So I would have netted about $54 on a $130 tank. I have a buddy restoring a 65 Chevelle and I offered it to him for $50. Said he might have to swap the filler neck, but it might fit the way it is. So yeah, I’m done with OPGI too.


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## armyadarkness (Dec 7, 2020)

SLSTEVE said:


> OK got her running, but with progress comes misfortune(at least with me anyway). NOW it looks like I need a different crank pulley. Anyone have a 65 crank pulley, 7.25OD, 2 groove, Part Number 9778802? That is what the Restoration Guide says I need. While I'm at it(know this is the wrong forum), I also need a rear lower shock bolt that attaches the shock to the rearend, a trunk lock retainer clip and a steering column support bracket. I might really be able to get this baby built soon at this rate!


That's how my entire car was. It fought me the whole way. The shock bolt USUALLY comes attached to the shock on those... at least it does on 67. Are you doing an authentic restoration? If not, I used these... They're called No-Bind shock mounts and they're a much better design. Cheap, too.


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## armyadarkness (Dec 7, 2020)

Herding Goats said:


> On the subject of parts suppliers... I've placed one order from OPGI for '70 grill brackets and half of them were wrong and needed modification. Their pricing is usually higher than anyone else's for the same repro parts but I could not find those elsewhere. Pretty sure "OP" stands for "Over Priced". Unfortunately, lots of this repro stuff does not fit well or is even the wrong part (Chevelle fuel tank sending units, Chrysler door panel clips, exploding headlight adjusters, etc.). I can't begin to count the hours spent "fixing" new repro parts. I always try to avoid them when I can but wouldn't have a complete car without some. I have thrown out a lot of parts that were bought too soon on a project only to find out they are junk or wrong.
> As mentioned above Ames is pretty good about mentioning the quality of a part and adjustments needed. NPD customer service out of Michigan has been very good to deal with. Not so much the Florida location and online parts ordering. Best to call them. Keep those goats runnin'!


Yep. I had the same experience. I bought a hood scoop insert. Didn't touch it for 5 months. Painted it, then found it didn't fit. How do you return a 5-month old part, which you painted? $100 scoop... garbage... $50 paint... garbage. 6 hours... garbage. And that's just ONE PIECE! 

BTW... If ya'll are ever in Jersey, be sure to stop by Army's Pontiac Distributor Emporium. I have one for every day of the week... sooner or later, I'll find the right one.


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## 67ventwindow (Mar 3, 2020)

armyadarkness said:


> BTW... If ya'll are ever in Jersey, be sure to stop by Army's Pontiac Distributor Emporium. I have one for every day of the week... sooner or later, I'll find the right one.


Maybe I should open a butique for used F#$D intakes.


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## armyadarkness (Dec 7, 2020)

Yeah... I never remember having these issues in my youth. 4 Months: 3 carbs, 2 sets of plug wires, 3 coils, 4 dizzy's, 3 sets of mufflers, 3 air cleaners, 2 pcv valves.


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## SLSTEVE (Dec 8, 2020)

67ventwindow said:


> Maybe I should open a butique for used F#$D intakes.


I could have a thermostat housing open house. I’m on number 6 and still don’t have the right one. I ought to solder them all on the POS gas tank I got from OPGI and turn it into a Pontiac Picasso!


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## SLSTEVE (Dec 8, 2020)

armyadarkness said:


> Yeah... I never remember having these issues in my youth. 4 Months: 3 carbs, 2 sets of plug wires, 3 coils, 4 dizzy's, 3 sets of mufflers, 3 air cleaners, 2 pcv valves.


That reminds me: WHY can’t you get the right length spark plug wires for all eight spark plugs????? I mean really-AC Delco for crying out loud? You would think they would get all the lengths right, or at least close. 1 and 2 are way too long, they could have shortened them up and saved the leftover for 7 and 8, which are a tad short. And my number 5 is so short I had to run it under the accelerator cable bracket and OVER the valve cover! I tried swapping this one for that a few different times and this is the best configuration I could come up with. Anyone have a solution, or a set of new plug wires that actually fit properly?


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## 67ventwindow (Mar 3, 2020)

SLSTEVE said:


> That reminds me: WHY can’t you get the right length spark plug wires for all eight spark plugs????? I mean really-AC Delco for crying out loud? You would think they would get all the lengths right, or at least close. 1 and 2 are way too long, they could have shortened them up and saved the leftover for 7 and 8, which are a tad short. And my number 5 is so short I had to run it under the accelerator cable bracket and OVER the valve cover! I tried swapping this one for that a few different times and this is the best configuration I could come up with. Anyone have a solution, or a set of new plug wires that actually fit properly?


I was taught to pull one wire match it and replace. That rarely works even buying from GM. I would end up leave one old wire because I always had one that would never work. Its best to use the kits that you crimp yourself. 

I have parts that didn't fit but they don't want them back or its not worth shipping.


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## SLSTEVE (Dec 8, 2020)

67ventwindow said:


> I was taught to pull one wire match it and replace. That rarely works even buying from GM. I would end up leave one old wire because I always had one that would never work. Its best to use the kits that you crimp yourself.
> 
> I have parts that didn't fit but they don't want them back or its not worth shipping.


Exactly, just like the gas tank. They would end up giving me $54 back in store credit for a $130 gas tank! Great racket right?


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## SLSTEVE (Dec 8, 2020)

SLSTEVE said:


> Exactly, just like the gas tank. They would end up giving me $54 back in store credit for a $130 gas tank! Great racket right?


Oh, and what do you do when you don’t have the luxury of having the old parts to use as a guide? You just have to wing it...


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## armyadarkness (Dec 7, 2020)

I havent bought made plug wires in well over a decade,


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## armyadarkness (Dec 7, 2020)

Sorry I missed your call. I'm in an area with no service. I use MSD 8.8 wires and then either angled or straight boots, depending on your loom. Usually the GTO will take straight boots at the plug. MSD includes a high quality crimp tool for the job, and you can absolutely feel the difference in the seat of your pants, with them.


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## armyadarkness (Dec 7, 2020)

I'll be around all night if you give me a shout later... Doing some CNC gauge pod construction! 

I use crazy looms, so wires are a big deal!


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## SLSTEVE (Dec 8, 2020)

armyadarkness said:


> I havent bought made plug wires in well over a decade,


What do you use Jimmy?


armyadarkness said:


> Sorry I missed your call. I'm in an area with no service. I use MSD 8.8 wires and then either angled or straight boots, depending on your loom. Usually the GTO will take straight boots at the plug. MSD includes a high quality crimp tool for the job, and you can absolutely feel the difference in the seat of your pants, with them.


Thanks Jimmy, will check them out.


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## 64since65 (Dec 11, 2019)

SLSTEVE said:


> .... While I'm at it(know this is the wrong forum), I also need a rear lower shock bolt that attaches the shock to the rearend, a trunk lock retainer clip and a steering column support bracket. I might really be able to get this baby built soon at this rate!


I have an extra steering column support bracket for a '64 but don't know if it's the same as a '65. (Actually, there are at least a couple "brackets" around the steering column so I'd have to know exactly which one you need.) I probably have an extra trunk lock retainer clip for a '64 as well. Let me know if they will work for your '65.


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## armyadarkness (Dec 7, 2020)

SLSTEVE said:


> What do you use Jimmy?
> 
> Thanks Jimmy, will check them out.


I would post a link for you, but there are a few application considerations. 

Straight or angled plug boots
Color
HEI or points
But they're easy and fun to make. Expect to pay at least $80, but you'll never need wires again


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## SLSTEVE (Dec 8, 2020)

64since65 said:


> I have an extra steering column support bracket for a '64 but don't know if it's the same as a '65. (Actually, there are at least a couple "brackets" around the steering column so I'd have to know exactly which one you need.) I probably have an extra trunk lock retainer clip for a '64 as well. Let me know if they will work for your '65.


Thanks but found them already.


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## SLSTEVE (Dec 8, 2020)

armyadarkness said:


> I would post a link for you, but there are a few application considerations.
> 
> Straight or angled plug boots
> Color
> ...


I need:
Straight
Don’t care
HEI
I looked on eBay and Amazon. Couldn’t find any 8.8’s!


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## armyadarkness (Dec 7, 2020)

Sorry... 8.5's!
Maybe these?








Amazon.com: MSD 31189 8.5mm Super Conductor Spark Plug Wire Set, Red : Automotive


Buy MSD 31189 8.5mm Super Conductor Spark Plug Wire Set, Red: Wire Sets - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases



www.amazon.com


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## [email protected] (Oct 5, 2015)

gtomike455 said:


> i bought mine at NPD & it fit perfect. i don't remember who made it though.


I try to keep a better eye on the forums, but I'm late to the game on this one...

Yes, we (NPD) carry the Canadian-made Spectra tanks. The correct tank for 1965-1967 is Spectra GM37H, NPD # C-3001-404A. The Taiwan-made tanks just aren't the same quality.

I am shocked by the lack of customer-service I'm reading about in this thread. Yes, we have return policies too... But they are only there as a last line of defense. They come in handy for instances where we feel certain that we have a less-than-ethical customer attempting to sidestep responsibility for their own boneheaded actions. But beyond last-line-of-defense applications, we have always found that discretion is the better part of valor. Fuel tanks don't have expiration dates. They don't go "bad" sitting in a box waiting to be installed. So the entire "you can't send it back, even though the damn thing doesn't fit, because it's been XX-many days" is the epitome of horse hockey. 

You won't get that nonsense here at NPD. We (my father and I) are hobbyists too, with many restorations under our belt, and we understand that projects rarely tend to progress on schedule. So I don't care if the "discovery" aspect of the problem is after 5 days, or 500.. If the gripe is real/valid, and the customer is acting in good faith, we return the courtesy. 

A bad part is a bad part, regardless of what day it is. I've taken 10-year-old stuff that I know/knew to be problematic, or remembered that there was tooling issues long ago, back.. Because the customer is now just finally trying to install the part.

Ok, I'll step off the soap box. Policies are to help when required and appropriate, not to hide behind.

And when you're in the market for a tank, seek out the Spectra and pay the extra premium. It's worth it.

Rick
NPD


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## SLSTEVE (Dec 8, 2020)

[email protected] said:


> I try to keep a better eye on the forums, but I'm late to the game on this one...
> 
> Yes, we (NPD) carry the Canadian-made Spectra tanks. The correct tank for 1965-1967 is Spectra GM37H, NPD # C-3001-404A. The Taiwan-made tanks just aren't the same quality.
> 
> ...


Yeah Rick, wish I would have ordered more from you and nothing from them. I used them for the bulk of the stuff I bought for this build. Spent a lot of money(for me anyway, probably not for them) and then get squeezed on the gas tank really pisses me off. So much so that I canceled ALL of the orders that were back ordered(some had been ordered for over 4 months!). On the other hand, everything I have ordered from NPD has been spot on and fit perfectly. Do you carry cowl seal rubber? The one I bought from you know who seems to be too tall or too hard, and my hood sticks up in the back when closed. I pulled the cowl seal off and closed the hood again. The hood still stuck up in the back but when I pushed it down it did go down and align with the top of the fender. Tried to align the hood better after that and the darn hood stud came out. Now I have to start all over! You carry better hood studs than the other guy?


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## [email protected] (Oct 5, 2015)

SLSTEVE said:


> Yeah Rick, wish I would have ordered more from you and nothing from them. I used them for the bulk of the stuff I bought for this build. Spent a lot of money(for me anyway, probably not for them) and then get squeezed on the gas tank really pisses me off. So much so that I canceled ALL of the orders that were back ordered(some had been ordered for over 4 months!). On the other hand, everything I have ordered from NPD has been spot on and fit perfectly. Do you carry cowl seal rubber? The one I bought from you know who seems to be too tall or too hard, and my hood sticks up in the back when closed. I pulled the cowl seal off and closed the hood again. The hood still stuck up in the back but when I pushed it down it did go down and align with the top of the fender. Tried to align the hood better after that and the darn hood stud came out. Now I have to start all over! You carry better hood studs than the other guy?


Hi Steve,

Yes, our hood to cowl seal is NPD # C-12801-100A WEATHERSTRIP, Hood To Cowl, Original Style W/ Correct Cross Section, Repro - #C-12801-100A - National Parts Depot , and our supplier for it is Ted Williams Enterprises. I have one on my '66, and the hood fits/closes perfectly. So it should not be an issue. Also, sometimes the hood sitting high in the rear is a matter of the "rotation" orientation of the hinges. Instead of trying to adjust the hinges as far down as you can, instead have someone (gently) push-up on the nose of your hood, with the bolts loose enough that the hinges can "rock" rearward, then tighten, then carefully shut hood and check. 

We do not offer the studs separately, but they are included in our AMK concours-correct hood and hood-hinge mounting kit, C-8015-416AK Fastener Kit Hood And Hood Hinges 16 Incl - #C-8015-416AK - National Parts Depot 

I can only hope that the studs AMK provides are better quality than what you got.


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