# Zebart removal



## bowsher21 (Dec 8, 2011)

I searched for Zebart removal but didn't find anything on this site so, I thought I would ask the question; How should I remove the Zebart and other undercoating from the underside of my project? 
I guess I was lucky the car was Zebarted, nearly no rust but this is gonna take some time to clean up.


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## Instg8ter (Sep 28, 2010)

coarse sand will bounce right off it...i know (7 bags worth). i left mine and re-hit light areas... I would think some type of solvent or paint stripper would dissolve it but thats nasty and messy. Do not know if soda blasting will touch it. I figured it does the job it was designed for and has preserved the undercarriage for 45 years why fight it, to me it was'nt worth all the work to strip and paint but i did not take the body off the frame either. It also protects from chips and scratches as well as moisture, once the painted frame/underbody gets scratched from stones if you drive it, it will start to rust.


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## bowsher21 (Dec 8, 2011)

Blasting of any sort is a waste of time and materials. All it does is move the goo around. Even steam cleaning takes way too long and still leaves a film. I know diesel will melt it but it stinks and is real messy.
I would leave it if not for the incomplete application around the rear end. That area around the fuel tank and hard to shoot over the spring buckets has a surface rust so, I will be painting the complete underside.


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## Instg8ter (Sep 28, 2010)

dry ice and chip it off :confused give the citrustrip a shot its non toxic and smells like oranges.


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## bowsher21 (Dec 8, 2011)

Citrustrip, now that is a good idea! Got to start to clear the "old car smell" out anyway.
I wonder if they put it in a steam cleaner form? Not big on dry ice but I could leave the car outside for a few days during in the below 0 deg weather and try the chipping air hammer attachment.


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## Instg8ter (Sep 28, 2010)

dry ice is -80 F i dont think that setting it outside will do it as the worst weather we have is well within the products temperature range. citrus strip brushed on heavy and let set until you see lifting then scrape. I think I have seen dry ice blasters on youtube.

yep


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## pontiac (Mar 6, 2011)

acid dip body, only way for sure.


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## bowsher21 (Dec 8, 2011)

I do plan on dipping the front clip but not the body. I am told the acid/ striping fluid is very hard to be sure it is out of seams and can come back years later lifting the paint.


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## geeteeohguy (Feb 2, 2008)

My '67 GTO convertible is a Baltimore built car, was registered in Tennessee, and came to California in 1983, when I bought it. The ONLY reason it still has its original floorpans in good condition is because it was Ziebarted when new. The stuff is tough as nails, is a heat and sound deadener, and has preserved my floorpans for going on 45 years now. I have no plans to remove it any time soon........it's part of the car's history.


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## bowsher21 (Dec 8, 2011)

Talk about solid floor pans and rockers, check this out. The Zebart did it's job but the car won't be driven in the winters again or any time soon so off it go's.

I just couldn't do a nice job on the rest of the car and have the bottom look nasty. I'll do my best so not to over restore it.


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## Instg8ter (Sep 28, 2010)

Seem to remember dad having all his new cars Ziebarted from the dealer, so in essence it is a dealer supplied option....


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## FlambeauHO (Nov 24, 2011)

Looks great! That stuff really did do its job! 

Sent from my Nexus S 4G using AutoGuide.Com Free


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## Josh.AZ.GTO (Jul 11, 2009)

I've seen some people use an air needler gun. Not sure how it would work on the Ziebart, but if you have one available it's worth a try.... My guess is it would have to be dried and not plyable to chip away.


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## bowsher21 (Dec 8, 2011)

Talked to a guy today that said to use a propane torch and wood paint stick as a scraper. 
Follow up with stiff plastic bristle wire brush type tool. Still going to have to use solvent to remove left over film. Back to trying Citrustrip stuff. Good smell and non flamable. But, will it work? 
Looks like I am getting close to a plan of attack. What do you think?


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## FlambeauHO (Nov 24, 2011)

Josh.AZ.GTO said:


> I've seen some people use an air needler gun. Not sure how it would work on the Ziebart, but if you have one available it's worth a try.... My guess is it would have to be dried and not plyable to chip away.
> 
> 
> Sent from my Autoguide iPhone app


I don't think a needle scaler will work while it's still pliable but its worth a try. Anyone try easy off oven cleaner? pretty potent but don't know if it will work on ziebart


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## bowsher21 (Dec 8, 2011)

Needle gun is out. Zebart is too soft and I don't want to do damage to anything. Thing about any solvent is, it won't soak into the Zebart, only melts top surface. I tried enamal reducer, thinner, diesel fuel and steam so far. I did get a buzz then throbbing headache. 
Need to find that citrus solvent and a wide port fitting for a propane torch.

Keep'em comming. I like to hear new idea's.

Thanks


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## FlambeauHO (Nov 24, 2011)

I've heard you can heat the opposite side of the floor pan with a torch and then scrape it off. I don't see any solvents taking that off except a little at a time, keep us posted.


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## Instg8ter (Sep 28, 2010)

can get Citrustrip at Home Depot, i have used it to remove 10 years of industrial floor polish from ceramic tile just test it on a small area.


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## Rukee (Feb 8, 2007)

If the floors aren't rusted, I would leave it on. I rubberized undercoated the whole under side of the floor after I put the floor pans in, so what the heck?!?


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## geeteeohguy (Feb 2, 2008)

Too late. It's about all the way stripped off. He has to go all the way, now. I agree with you, Ruk. Like I said, the original 45 year old Ziebart on the bottom of my '67 is going to stay right where it is. Nothing wrong with additional heat, noise, and corrosion protection, in my book. I wonder what Fiesta would do??


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## Instg8ter (Sep 28, 2010)

New Floor and trunk pans? Really to tell you the truth i would'nt want to have to detail my undercarriage every few months.....correct me if i am wrong, undercarriage paint will chip and scratch down to bare metal during normal driving and it will get wet when you wash it promoting future rust or rust under the paint unless you dry your undercarriage....the big knock on Ziebart was it will trap moisture between it and the metal causing rust...i have original hole free floor wheel well and trunk pans that beg to differ. I wonder how many more good original cars would still be around if they were all "Ziebarted" from the factory as the floor and trunk pans were one of this cars biggest nemesis. Then we would be clamoring for it as an "option".


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## bowsher21 (Dec 8, 2011)

Look closer at the front edges of the floor pan, cross members and frame. See the surface rust? It looks like the guy shooting the Zebart was too lazy to walk to the front to get an even coat. Every thing was shot from the rear angle or, over the years the Zebart was worn away from the same stones you mention will chip the unprotected paint. I just couldn't do the whole car and leave the underside undone.
I do agree with the benefits of water protection and sound deadening. To that point I have been giving thought to Rocker Shutz or Stone gaurd products to use on the bottom. That stuff can be painted over and cleans easy.


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## crustysack (Oct 5, 2008)

ZEBART-- as so thats what that gunk was . It certainly works my car was mint under it. I used a heat gun and metal scraper to get the majority off, then I went to a 36 grit grinder disc but those got clogged rather quickly, I then went to a 5" stainless steel coarse wire wheel attachment for the grinder. That was fun,especially when the wires broke off and impaled my skin-through my tyvek suit and clothes. Wear a full face respirator because it is MESSY. Oh yeah and had to finish off with solvent- acetone or paint thinner. I believe I had blocked that month out of my memory because of the trauma it caused me. Good luck and start drinking early


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## bowsher21 (Dec 8, 2011)

That is funny! Ahhh restoration work. Remember Tim the tool man Taylor? Manly man with power tools. No job too tough. Getting poked, burnt, gased by vapors and smashed on a case of beer so the nasty job go's by quicker or so you can't remember the worst part of the job.
I hoped to get to try some things to remove the Zebart over the past few days but too much work right now. I kind of like the wire cup idea on a power tool.
Thanks:cheers


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