# WIndshield drain holes



## steve491 (Nov 20, 2019)

I'm in the process of repairing the lower windshield channel and the two corners of the dash. When water gets behind the stainless trim where is it supposed to go? Are there supposed to be drain holes in the two corners that shed water on the outside of the cowl? I can't tell because it's all rust.
Thanks


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## PontiacJim (Dec 29, 2012)

No, no drain holes in the windshield corners. That is one reason why they rot, plus all the dirt that gets up under the stainless and holds moisture.


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## steve491 (Nov 20, 2019)

PontiacJim said:


> No, no drain holes in the windshield corners. That is one reason why they rot, plus all the dirt that gets up under the stainless and holds moisture.


Thanks Jim! I'm just about ready to set the windshield back in, I know it's been three months, covid hasn't slowed down my work load it's actually increased. 
Two questions for the experts: 1. What can I safely use to clean/remove all of the butyl/crud from the perimeter of the glass without damaging it. I used mineral spirits sparingly, but can I use Acetone or Laquer thinner? 2. Is it best to use repo butyl tape or urethane to set it back in? I'm thinking urethane. My 67 Fisher manual actual recommends urethane but I've read it needs to be the correct thickness so the reveal trim sits right.
Thanks in advance for any responses.
Steve


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## O52 (Jan 27, 2019)

Urethane is difficult to apply correctly if you don't have the proper equipment. Best to have a professional do it. Butyl on the other hand can be done at home. But even Butyl can be installed wrong. I believe 3/8" thickness is correct for windshields. 
The camp is divided as to which is best.





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## PontiacJim (Dec 29, 2012)

O52 said:


> Urethane is difficult to apply correctly if you don't have the proper equipment. Best to have a professional do it. Butyl on the other hand can be done at home. But even Butyl can be installed wrong. I believe 3/8" thickness is correct for windshields.
> The camp is divided as to which is best.
> 
> 
> ...


Agreed. This can be tricky. When I worked in a repair shop, they used to use a tape kit. It will have the rubber spacers that set at the base of the windshield so the windshield does not drop too low. Installation is a 1-shot deal as once you set the windshield down, it won't move much - but if it is slightly off and has to be shifted right/left, you can use the open palm of your hand and hit the windshield at an angle in the direction you want to shift it. This can only be done when the seal is fresh.

Personally, you might be surprised how inexpensive it will be to have a windshield company like Safelite Autoglass come and install it right at your home. We have guys who call then to do the windshield replacement right at work and often the glass and install is around $250. All you need is the install, so you may be surprised that it won't be a killer price - and they have the tools and experience.


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