# 65 roof rail weatherstrip



## injn37 (Nov 16, 2008)

I had a brain f-rt and ordered two sets of roof rail weatherstrips. One from Ames, and I think the others came from Performance Years. One set has a 7/8" wide back ( that goes into the metal rail) and the other has a 1 1/8" wide back. I can get either to fit the rail, obviously the 7/8" one easier, but which one is the correct one? :confused
While trying to get the windows aligned and adjusted , I think I am going to take up drinking, as this should definitely make the process easier ( in my mind):cheers.

Is one size right or better than the other?

rich


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## Too Many Projects (Nov 15, 2008)

injn37 said:


> I had a brain f-rt and ordered two sets of roof rail weatherstrips. One from Ames, and I think the others came from Performance Years. One set has a 7/8" wide back ( that goes into the metal rail) and the other has a 1 1/8" wide back. I can get either to fit the rail, obviously the 7/8" one easier, but which one is the correct one? :confused
> While trying to get the windows aligned and adjusted , I think I am going to take up drinking, as this should definitely make the process easier ( in my mind):cheers.
> 
> Is one size right or better than the other?
> ...


Rich, I would check the part numbers against their websites to see if one of them shipped the wrong part. As you probably know, the 64-65 is different from the 66-67 and maybe someone grabbed the wrong bag.

I'm dreading the window phase of my car too, because I have done this a couple times in the past and it sucks. I now have a Fischer shop manual for mid sixties cars with the vent windows and it explains what to adjust to move the window , so I'm hoping it helps when I get to that stage.


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## Rukee (Feb 8, 2007)

The rear side windows on a `65 twist as they go down though and are almost infinitely adjustable, make adjusting challenging!! Drinking is just a start.


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## injn37 (Nov 16, 2008)

I think I came up with the solution.
Drive with the windows down! Rain or shine. 

Mitch, I never thought about that fact that I might have a different year on the window strips. I know some people at Ames, I will give them a call to measure the strips they have .

You are right, this is the only part of the rebuild that I truly hate.

I will keep you posted.

rich :cheers


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## geeteeohguy (Feb 2, 2008)

Injn, I ordered the same weatherstrip from AMES about 2 months ago for my '65, and have yet to install it. I did change all the glass to Soft Ray glass in about 1985, and it was a real chore to align the side windows. Mine is SOFTSEAL part F-75, 5005. It measures 7/8" wide at the back. I'll measure the original, rock hard stuff when I get around to removing it. Not looking forward to it, but it needs doing!! Mitch and Rukee don't drink, but I do. I found it doesn't help when working on these cars.....only afterwards, after a long hard day of "gravel-backing" a tranny or an exhaust or a rear differential or.............


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## injn37 (Nov 16, 2008)

Pain to adjust these things is an understatement! Wonder how much this car would cost at today's factory line rates just to set the windows?
You are correct in the 7/8 wide seem to be the correct ones. Have been reading through the Fisher body manual on installing these, and the big book tells you to glue these in ( bead of adhesive on the front edge of the retainer). Wants to you to use weatherstrip adhesive everywhere.
As to the drinking, only at the end of the day, and for medicinal purposes.... unless of course you are trying to line up windows, then all bets are off!
Right now I have the original clear glass in. Was mulling over changing to Soft Ray all around, but original is still in real good condition. Plus, just what i need, another project within the project. 
I am going to have to become Mitch's junior, TMP Jr. :cheers
I will let all know if I find a shortcut or secret to adjusting these without going nuts!

rich


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## geeteeohguy (Feb 2, 2008)

Rich, the ONE thing I have learned for certain after decades of doing this stuff is, there really are no shortcuts. I just ask myself, "what's the hardest, most PITA way to do this project?" and it always is the right way. Take your time, don't spill your sippin' whiskey, and all will work out. One thing I learned, also, don't use white lithium grease on the regulators or tracks. It sets up in about 5 years like caulk. Use vaseline or good synthetic wheel bearing grease, sparingly. Roger that on the nightcap. I can't even have a beer with lunch on my day odd anymore.....makes me want to take a nap!!!


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## 66tempestGT (Nov 28, 2009)

i just put the glasses back in a 67 chevelle a few months ago. i could still see where the bolts used to be and it was really close. i wanted them a little better so i spent some time tweaking them. after moving them around some and getting really out of whack i could come back to the old marks and start over. if you are just changing the glass and not the regulator, and you like the way they fit now, take some spray paint and spray all the bolts and nuts before you take them out. when you put it back together just put them back where they were. cant get more simple :cheers


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## Too Many Projects (Nov 15, 2008)

66tempestGT said:


> if you are just changing the glass and not the regulator, and you like the way they fit now, take some spray paint and spray all the bolts and nuts before you take them out. when you put it back together just put them back where they were. cant get more simple :cheers


Here's his car a year ago......









Hopefully mine will be hanging from a roto with the floor cut out next month...:willy:


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## 66tempestGT (Nov 28, 2009)

"Right now I have the original clear glass in."

i guess i misunderstood. even after blasting you can usually still see the old indentions if you look closely. if that was only a year ago and you are putting the windows back in congradulations. arty:


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