# Clutch line came out



## Qnko (Jun 8, 2014)

My clutch line came out at the point where the rubber flex hose attaches to the ridgid line going to the slave. Its the second time it happens and this time was bad. I was in the middle of nowhere and had to drive through 2 towns to make it home. Luckily i was with my buddy so he helped me push it at the traffic lights so i can get it in gear. 
How can i fix it permanently. I want to get rid of this rubber hose, replace it with steel braided one and do a flare connection instead of that plastic and metal pin (btw i purchased the car with a wire instead of pin). 
Any ideas of what parts should i order?I have a flaring tool and fixed brake lines with it couple of times but never done something like this. 
There is 2 companies that sell a line from the master to the slave but it requires removal of tranny and i want to avoid this. 
Thanks for the advise.
And please i already heard that i should get a triple a or carry brake fluid and vacuum pump


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## svede1212 (Nov 1, 2005)

I have never heard of a line that doesn't require trans removal unless you fab something up yourself. IMHO it's worth it to do it right and pull it and at the same time replace the slave and add a remote bleeder. You need to regularly bleed these top to bottom and a remote makes it so much easier and cleaner. Slaves wear the seal area from clutch dust getting past the seals that blackens the fluid. You may find you end up replacing your rubber hose and still be on the side of the road with a bad slave. It is very common for slaves to puke their seals and especially so if it hasn't been regularly bled to remove the contaminants. If you still want to just do the rubber hose get a short piece of braided brake line.


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## Qnko (Jun 8, 2014)

I want to do it right. And i did not know that its a common for this cars slave to fail. Its easy to drop the tranny just didn't wanna do it cause i had it out an year ago. 
Which is the best slave? 
I have trouble shifting at high rpm. What should i look for besides measuring for a shim? I have monster stage3. 
How often should i change the fluid and what is the best way to bleed it? I have a remote bleeder and currently change it with oil changes using mityvac or the two person method. 
Sorry for asking so many questions. I just want to do everything right.


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## svede1212 (Nov 1, 2005)

There are only a couple of manufacturers of slaves so it really doesn't make any difference. I get mine from AutoZone or Advance auto. I know the PITA of tranny pulling. I've had mine out 8 times. I'm getting good at it!  

Your clutch line or shimming might be your high RPM shifting issue. With a stock clutch I usually say the pressure plate but a M3, although not that great of a clutch for a street car (I had one), doesn't suffer from that much. Even though Monster says you should not need a shim I'd measure anyways. 

Changing fluid at oil changes is enough. I found if I drop the remote line down under the car into a pan it works really well by myself. After opening the valve I get it started with a slow pedal push and then just stand there and carefully pour in fluid so I don't add any bubbles and keep the reservoir filled. After cycling through what I estimate to be 2 or 3 reservoirs of fluid I close the valve. No need to vac it or do other bleeding.

I got a solid SS clutch line years ago that replaced the stock one top to bottom with just a short braided hose like you proposed in the middle and a threaded in piece at the slave. If you have the ability to flare the stock line it sure would make it a lot easier as getting that thing to start threading at the master was a hand shredding challenge. 

After having a leak at the slave one time I now pressure test the slave by putting it in a vice to keep the piston from popping out and pushing the clutch pedal before putting the slave on the trans. It only takes a coupe of minutes and assures me I won't be pulling the trans again to fix a leak. 

If you replace a slave take it apart. You can pull the piston off by twisting it and you'll see that with pushing on a little tab you can pull it off the cylinder. When I did that on my last one (I'm on my 4th in 53,000 miles) I found the cylinder was really wavy where the piston seal rode from clutch dust abrasion. BTW IMHO slaves blow out their seals a lot more with heavy clutches like the M3. With the heavy PP springs it puts a lot of hydraulic pressure on the seals. My latest clutch is a McLeod RST twin. It is day and night better than my M3 was and with light PP springs puts a lot less stress on everything yet can hold 700 RWHP


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