# starting problem



## jmd55 (Oct 30, 2021)

hi my 66 389 gt0 4 barrel Edelbrock 600 cfm i leave it for a week and have to crank it a bit to start then when hot if it sits for a few minutes starts but to long i have to crank it to death then seems flooded changed fuel filter tank and sender are new line is new carb is a reman from jegs pump is fairly new but did notice the filter emptys out any ideas would be great thanks


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## integrity6987 (May 10, 2017)

modern fuel readily evaporates from the carb bowls. cranking or pre-priming is needed to re-fill before all the circuits can function.


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## Bopman (7 mo ago)

integrity6987 said:


> modern fuel readily evaporates from the carb bowls. cranking or pre-priming is needed to re-fill before all the circuits can function.


I have thought about looping in a small electric pump into the line back by the tank to turn on before cranking to solve this part of the problem to save wear and tear on starter and accelerator pump..🤔🤔 then turn pump off after engine is running. Anyone's thoughts on this idea ?


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## Jetzster (Jan 18, 2020)

Maybe that could help, but have you added a Fuel conditioner/stabilizer? Maybe it would slow the fuel evap down for a few more days


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## armyadarkness (Dec 7, 2020)

Edelbrock carbs are NOTORIOUS for loosing fuel when they sit... and Pontiac engines are NOTORIOUS for suffering hot-starts, due to the exhaust passing through the intake.

Edelbrock sells a heat insulation gasket and it works awesome. Ultimately, I blocked off the exhaust crossover, which is a very popular Pontiac engine mod. Both will work. 

I would install the gasket and check the condition of your needles! They are brass and if they are pitted from leaving ethanol sit, then they'll leak when the car sits, worse than they do normally. 

Also, not sure what you climate is, but verify that your chock is set right.

















Edelbrock 9266 Edelbrock Heat Insulator Gaskets | Summit Racing


Free Shipping - Edelbrock Heat Insulator Gaskets with qualifying orders of $99. Shop Carburetor Base Plate Gaskets at Summit Racing.




www.summitracing.com


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## armyadarkness (Dec 7, 2020)

Bopman said:


> I have thought about looping in a small electric pump into the line back by the tank to turn on before cranking to solve this part of the problem to save wear and tear on starter and accelerator pump..🤔🤔 then turn pump off after engine is running. Anyone's thoughts on this idea ?


I live in a state that is extremely hot and humid in the summer, and I drive year round. It was 105 degrees this weekend and I had no issues.

I run E10, 93 octane, and have no factory return line for cooling, but I do run the heat insulator gasket and I blocked off my exhaust crossover


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## Noangelbuddy (Dec 6, 2017)

Bopman said:


> I have thought about looping in a small electric pump into the line back by the tank to turn on before cranking to solve this part of the problem to save wear and tear on starter and accelerator pump..🤔🤔 then turn pump off after engine is running. Anyone's thoughts on this idea ?


I not only thought about it, I purchased an electric pump that is passive when off. Too many other projects in play to install. Also not anxious to have to cut into the line and assemble new fittings. Will eventually get it done.


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## Sick467 (Oct 29, 2019)

What pump did you buy *Noangelbuddy ?*


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## Noangelbuddy (Dec 6, 2017)

Sick467 said:


> What pump did you buy *Noangelbuddy ?*


Knew you would ask. I purchased the Airtex E8251 after watching a YouTube video. 





 (sorry, couldn’t paste the link so I just typed it). 
Once at YouTube enter “ flow thru electric fuel pump”.

Guy had problem starting his 64 Buick Wildcat after it sat for several days.

Like I said, I have not installed yet. Reviews looked favorable and it was cheap. When I do get around to installing it, I will provide 12v from a momentary push button switch. When not powered up, the pump is passive and does not interfere with the mechanical fuel pump.


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## Dave 68 (Nov 18, 2018)

I opted for an electric pump. Got rid of the mechanical pump completely. No more issues. I hid the switch for the fuel pump to prevent theft. No more problems.


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## PontiacJim (Dec 29, 2012)

Dave 68 said:


> I opted for an electric pump. Got rid of the mechanical pump completely. No more issues. I hid the switch for the fuel pump to prevent theft. No more problems.


What are you using to kill power or shut off the electric pump in the event you get into a bad accident and bust a gas line and the electric pump continues to pump out gasoline and starts the fire that burns you alive??? or someone else???


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## geeteeohguy (Feb 2, 2008)

What Army said. Today's gas boils at about 140 degrees and evaporates almost overnight. You're carb is empty when you go to start it after a few days, and when you park it after driving, the engine 'heat soaks' enough to boil the fuel in the carb and cause it to flood into the intake and engine, causing your hard flooded start. On one of my cars with dual quads, I made Masonite base spacers and lowered the float levels just a hair and it worked. Some also add 'heavy ends' to fuel, like diesel, kerosene, ATF, MMO, etc. but these will usually reduce octane. I have 5 carbureted vehicles, most of which I've had for decades, and have only in the past 10-15 years had fuel issues that were previously unheard of.
The days of rolling up to the pump and paying 50 cents for leaded 96 octane non-ethanol fuel and driving off to the beach are long gone.


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## tDub (May 6, 2018)

I


jmd55 said:


> hi my 66 389 gt0 4 barrel Edelbrock 600 cfm i leave it for a week and have to crank it a bit to start then when hot if it sits for a few minutes starts but to long i have to crank it to death then seems flooded changed fuel filter tank and sender are new line is new carb is a reman from jegs pump is fairly new but did notice the filter emptys out any ideas would be great thanks


besides my 66 GTO conv, I have a 51 Ford woodie with original flathead; had the same problem for years, (I havnt had that prob with the 421) solved it by installing an inline metal type fuel filter, (nipples on each end to put in rubber hose portion of fuel line which acts as a backflow valve; yes it does change the original appearance, but it was an easy fix that might help when you are driving around town stopping here and there.


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## tDub (May 6, 2018)

Bopman said:


> I have thought about looping in a small electric pump into the line back by the tank to turn on before cranking to solve this part of the problem to save wear and tear on starter and accelerator pump..🤔🤔 then turn pump off after engine is running. Anyone's thoughts on this idea ?


also known as a lift pump, I installed that and an extra hi capacity fuel filter on my 89 f250 diesel after forgetting to switch tanks when one ran out on a long drive; (my first diesel)- once the injectors lose pressure its a real pain to prime them; i installed a momentary toggle switch underhood to help priming, and an in dash rocker that saved me several times; you can hear the engine choke before it stalls; (the sending unit in one tank was inop for a few years because of parts availability, which I finally was able to get). The small electric pumps are relatively inexpensive, and i mounted mine underhood. its best to install the pump after the engine fuel pump so pumping electrically doesn´t screw up the diaphragm pump. when it is not in use the fuel flows thru without restriction.


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## tDub (May 6, 2018)

opps made a double post, couldnt find a delete button


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