# drum brakes



## 67goat56 (Mar 6, 2009)

hi--I own a 67 gto with power brakes. I need to relace the front shoes, but I can't get the drums off either side. I spun the star wheel in back and beat the
front of the drum again and again..........! Any suggestions? thanks--kevin


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## freethinker (Nov 14, 2009)

67goat56 said:


> hi--I own a 67 gto with power brakes. I need to relace the front shoes, but I can't get the drums off either side. I spun the star wheel in back and beat the
> front of the drum again and again..........! Any suggestions? thanks--kevin


remove the wheel bearings and remove the drum and hub as a unit.


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## jetstang (Nov 5, 2008)

Get a bigger hammer. Make sure the starwheel is backed all the way off. Is it moving at all, rusted solid, or catching on the pads?


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## 68GTO4004Spd (Jun 19, 2008)

I had that problem too. I had to beat a couple of the wheel studs out of the hub, then I finally was able to beat the drums off. Don't be an idiot and smash your fingers between the other studs and the hammer handle like I did, that fricken hurt.


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## Rukee (Feb 8, 2007)

freethinker said:


> remove the wheel bearings and remove the drum and hub as a unit.


:agree


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## tyscru (Sep 29, 2009)

In my earlier days when all cars had drum brakes it was not uncommon to have difficulty getting the drums off. I always used two large screwdrivers and managed to wedge one on each side then pry out. As others noted be sure the brakes are backed off as the older brakes would wear into the drum and leave a ridge around the inside edge and that is normally why you can't get them off.


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## 67goat56 (Mar 6, 2009)

I forgot, I did the hub & drum also. The top was stuck, I wasn't sure if I pulled it off, something would brake that shouldn't. I'll try again. Thanks guys for your help.


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## Rukee (Feb 8, 2007)

All that would/should break would be the retaining nail, spring and washer, which are easly replaced with a brake hardware kit. Cheap too.


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## Too Many Projects (Nov 15, 2008)

Rukee said:


> All that would/should break would be the retaining nail, spring and washer, which are easly replaced with a brake hardware kit. Cheap too.


And SHOULD be replaced because of age. Also, check for any seepage of brake fluid under the rubber end caps of the wheel cylinders and replace the cylinder if wet.


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## Jeff's Classics (Feb 24, 2010)

Too Many Projects said:


> And SHOULD be replaced because of age. Also, check for any seepage of brake fluid under the rubber end caps of the wheel cylinders and replace the cylinder if wet.


Wheel cylinders are cheap and easy to replace, especially if you are doing the shoes anyway, I'd put new ones in while there as cheap insurance. The brakes always feel much smoother and more powerful with fresh wheel cylinders.
Jeff


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## Too Many Projects (Nov 15, 2008)

Jeff's Classics said:


> Wheel cylinders are cheap and easy to replace, especially if you are doing the shoes anyway, I'd put new ones in while there as cheap insurance. The brakes always feel much smoother and more powerful with fresh wheel cylinders.
> Jeff


I agree they are cheap and good insurance against failure but NOT easy to replace on a rust belt car. You may as well order all new brake lines too because they are going to twist off at the fitting....:willy:


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## 67goat56 (Mar 6, 2009)

I finally got the drum off. Took the wheel bearing off and had to pry the drum off. The problem turned out to be the wheel cylinder had ruptured and brake fluid got on the shoes. The star wheel was covered in crap, that's why it wouldn't move. The shoes were in good shape, except they got tore up while prying the drum off. Thanks for your suggestions!


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## Rukee (Feb 8, 2007)

Don't reuse the shoes if they got soaked with the brake fliud even if they look in good shape. They could come off the backing plate after a while of use.


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