# Hi Torque Starter Problems



## AJFrechette (May 25, 2011)

Hi Folks,

I have had a terrible time with the Hi Torque starter I got from Ames that I have installed on my 66 convert with a 73 400 in it. The folks at the factory have been very helpful, but this thing makes horrible noises and is trashing the ring gear. It was set up dead nuts on, but it's just never been right. 

I plan to dump it and go back to the original. I have seen some discussions on using the Ford type relay on them to solve the overheating issues.

Any suggestions? I would post photos of the damage but an audio track tells the story about this Hi Torque starter better. 

Thanks,

Allen


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## BearGFR (Aug 25, 2008)

Sounds to me like a shimming problem. Look at the ring gear in the valleys between the teeth. If you can see markings in there where they starter pinion has been rubbing, you need more shims. I had a similar problem with my starter until I got the shims right. One of the symptoms I had was what could only be described as a "shrieking" sound whenever the motor would first catch and start to run. If you think that might be your issue, grab a shim pack from your local parts store and start adding shims 1/32 at a time until the problem goes away.

Bear


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## AJFrechette (May 25, 2011)

Yup, went through that and it does have the shrieking problem you mention. Sound like you got it to a point where it went away though...

I added 3 shims at one point and it was still problematic. Mine also makes a crunching sound that appears to be the starter gears mismatching and tearing up the ring gear. Did you notice that? 

Thanks again,

Allen


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## BearGFR (Aug 25, 2008)

I didn't have a 'crunch' on mine, just the 'shriek'. Adding 1/16" worth of shim fixed it completely and it's fine now. What could have happened in your case, is perhaps when it was too tight (shrieking) it damaged the planetary drive in the starter and that's where the crunch is coming from now. Of course, if you get too much shim and the gears aren't engaging enough, that can make it crunch and also tear up the gears.

In my case, the pinion on the starter shattered into pieces -- when I sent it back to RobbMc for repair (nice guy, he fixed it "under warranty" even though it wasn't) he went through it and found that the only damage was the pinion gear. I also sent him a link to a video of it starting and he recognized the problem immediately. When I got it back I shimmed it a little a time, just enough to make the shriek go away, and that fixed it.

Bear


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## AJFrechette (May 25, 2011)

*Hi Torque Woes*

Yup,

I installed the starter with the block out of the car, and I was absolutely certain I had the backlash right. I was initially concerned that the penetration wasn't good enough but the folks at the factory said 75% mesh was fine. The starter wouldn't disengage so I added some shims...crunch...smashed the retaining washer off the end of the shaft. The ring gear was by now pretty chewed up. The folks at the factory were very pleasant and replaced the parts happily, and volunteered to shave some of the material off the top of the starter mount block as they suspected that the gears may not have meshed deep enough based on the "white out" test...

Anyway, I will add a few shims back in one last time and try it again. Bought a Delco and I plan to put that in when this doens't work (not hopeful)...I need to find that string on using a Ford type solenoid to solve the overheating issue. 

Allen


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## dimitri (Feb 13, 2009)

I agree with Bear. Inline tube The brake plumbing experts These guys sell a shim kit for $12.00. It comes with shims, instructions, and a special gap tool. It is great.


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## AJFrechette (May 25, 2011)

There's now way (that I can tell) to use the gap tool on the standard transmission bell housing. I put in a new old-style starter and it works fine. I am stumped. I did notice that the gear on the Hi Torque had a different design than the original. 

I will keep the hi torque for project #2 and assume my flywheel is the problem. Seems like no one else has had this problem. 

Allen


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## PontiacDave (Jun 9, 2009)

I had bought a mini high torque a while back, it was a McCloud and was expensive....it made so much noise right off the bat with the high pitch "squeal" and no amount of shimming ever helped. I eventually return it and get another exact one and it has been great ever since. I am convinced that some starters, especially aftermarket ones, are just plain "bad"... though I have had really good luck with shimming starters and fixing it too.... there are 2(?) different mini hi-torques, which style do you have?


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## AJFrechette (May 25, 2011)

*Hi Torque*

This one was an IMI, and it came from Ames. I am pretty much stumped at this point and figured I would try it on the second GTO I am building or swap out the ring gear when I yank the motor back out this winter. 

The folks at IMI were very polite, but something's amiss on this install. 

Allen


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## jetstang (Nov 5, 2008)

For the Ford Solenoid, just tie the two posts together on the starter. Run your starter key wire to the start post on the ford solenoid. Then Hot in from bat, hot out to starter big post and you are done. Then the start wire for the coil to the other post on the solenoid, s or a, can't remember.


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## 66jr (Jun 13, 2017)

*Fixed Problem....So far*

I have a 69 gto with a 400 and I put in the Hi-torque mini-starter and it was chewing up my flywheel. Shimming it vertically didn't work, I needed it to move horizontally. I took the circle shim that came with it and cut it in half and installed it so it pointed the bendix towards the flywheel. Works perfect now. Time will tell for how long.


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