# heater question



## blondie67 (Jan 28, 2008)

Hello! Well, I put another heater core in the car the other day. What a pain in the *&^% with all the interior in. Now I'm having a problem with the heat going through the vents. It worked before and now the heater blower motor is working and you can hear the air but there's no heat or defrost. Could it be a vacuum leak or a bad fan switch? It seems to not "open" the right, I guess flap. I replaced the vacuum lines but still need a new actuator. 
Linda
PS. Got to wax the car for the first time! Chrome will be here hopefully by end of week and I'll post pics. I guess since I can't really drive it in the snow, it doesn't fare very well, I might as well do something right?


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## Hank (Jan 6, 2009)

I am guessing you don't got yourself a problem with your switches. I have seen this over and over again, I think a vaccuum might be accompanied by idle issues, or rough running. In fact, if you don't have a pressure guage just try and adjust the idler. If it is a vaccuum leak, the idler will essentially defy adjustment. Good luck.


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## ppurfield001 (Jan 21, 2008)

blondie67 said:


> Hello! Well, I put another heater core in the car the other day. What a pain in the *&^% with all the interior in. Now I'm having a problem with the heat going through the vents. It worked before and now the heater blower motor is working and you can hear the air but there's no heat or defrost. Could it be a vacuum leak or a bad fan switch? It seems to not "open" the right, I guess flap. I replaced the vacuum lines but still need a new actuator.
> Linda
> PS. Got to wax the car for the first time! Chrome will be here hopefully by end of week and I'll post pics. I guess since I can't really drive it in the snow, it doesn't fare very well, I might as well do something right?



Hang in there Linda -- eventually everything will work. Empathy -- Recently, I brought my 1967 GTO to a restoration guy to have some work done. One of the items I wanted repaired was an oil leak from the engine. Of course, it was the rear main seal, the transmission was also leaking and he found that the radiator support was in need of repair. So now my engine has been pulled and I decided to go for new headers, brass freeze-out plugs, new water pump, new gas lines, better oil pan, Kooks exhaust, yada yada. At least we're supporting business in this tough economy.


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## partman (Jan 3, 2009)

could be worse try the same job with A/C twice as much vaccum lines and rods and vent piecies and...........


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## geeteeohguy (Feb 2, 2008)

Hi Linda. First, your fan should run on 3 speeds: lo, med, and Hi. If it runs on only one or two speeds, the Blower Resistor in the switch is bad. Second, your car HAD A/C. Does it still have the A/C plenum (airbox/housing/doors)? If so, it gets a little more complicated. The NON AC cars have two cables that operate the heater controls by opening and closing "doors" under the dash: one door closes at the bottom, and the top door opens for defrost, and vice versa for heat. You can adjust both calbes for both at the same time in any combination in varying degrees. Now, with your system, you may have a vacuum controlled series of vents and doors. The factory manual would be a HUGE help here. If vacuum lines and manual cables are mis-routed, you have a puzzle on your hands. Again, WAAAY easier than putting on a roof. Take your time, look in the manual, and look at the control panel. When you turn to HEAT, turn fan on. What plenum door opens? The bottom? the Top? Neither? Should be the bottom. If not, pull vacuum line to the vacuum valve and check for vacuum at idle. Check the valve itself by applying vacuum with a pump or your mouth with a hose. Is the valve blown?, etc. etc. Basic detective work. You need to get the fan operational, get the right doors to open at the right time. Keep us posted!!!! Good luck.
Jeff


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## blondie67 (Jan 28, 2008)

Thanks Jeff, 
Before the heater core blew, it worked just fine and yes I still have the AC stuff. Not the engine side but the box inside has all the AC components. It does seem like my switch is bad so I'll try that and the vacuum lines. I know the flap for the side of the box works but it seems that the one for the lower heater vent and defrost is not. I'll figure it out! Thanks for advice.
Linda


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## geeteeohguy (Feb 2, 2008)

If it worked fine before the heater core change, something got jammed or mis-routed during the re-assembly, more than likely. Sometimes the pivot pins on the doors get rusty. Lube and clean. Also, the foam seal on the doors can be replaced to form a leak free seal. The bottom door has to open if the Heat option is to work. Make sure the cables/ lines are not pinched up in the dash or at the heater box, and that the levers move all the way back and forth without binding. Vacuum at any dashpot/switch should cause the actuating arm to retract. It's a simple, mechanical system...one you can fix!!! Good luck, keep us in the loop.
Jeff


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