# Transmission leak



## NEEDLEZ (Oct 21, 2009)

Hey all I attached some pics of my car and one of where the tranny is leaking. The under body was very clean about 2 years ago but this leak has totally made it look awful as you can see. After I get this fixed I will also have to fix a small oil leak.
Anyhow it's leaking from the bolt, or the plug not sure what it is, that is near the floorboard on the drivers side with a metal clip attached to it. On a side note I purchased a set of stands and a jack to get started I wanted to know the best place to put the stands after I got it jacked up.

Thanks for any help! I have a ton of work cut out for me.


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## NEEDLEZ (Oct 21, 2009)

Here's the pics had to resize


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## NEEDLEZ (Oct 21, 2009)

When I get this tranny leak fixed and the small oil leak squared away I am going to detail her and take quite a few pics as I actually never really have. She'll be sitting tall soon enough.


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## NEEDLEZ (Oct 21, 2009)

According to the world wide web it's the "electrical transmission plug" but it wasn't doing anything. I am going to power wash the under carriage so muc when I get this leak fixed.


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## GTO JUDGE (May 14, 2005)

On that side of the tranny check the: Speedo gear housing, It looks clean though check to make sure there isn't a beak in the seal on the pan itself, it looks real wet there, a small leak when driving and the pressure, a small leak combined with moving will throw fluid all over. Make sure all bolts are properly torqued. From that pic it appears its a seal issue. Cork seals and even neoprene can squash when torquing.


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## NEEDLEZ (Oct 21, 2009)

I drew an arrow to where it's leaking if you blow the picture up. It's that little plastic plug that has a brass end coming off of it. It's been leaking for the past 4 years and has made a mess of the pipes and under carriage. It might be more but I can literally see where the tranny fluid drips out of but I don't even know the name for it.


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## NEEDLEZ (Oct 21, 2009)

I own a great power sprayer and I have a ton of simple green so I think I can knock this out quick but we'll see.


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## 68raGTOp (Sep 4, 2011)

That looks like the kick down switch. You should have single wire going to that, to control your kick down or "passing gear". Should be an O-Ring on there you can change to fix your leak.


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## NEEDLEZ (Oct 21, 2009)

Alright guys I spent the past 3 hours cleaning the hell out of this. Take a look I'm pretty proud and at least now I can see what I'm doing!


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## geeteeohguy (Feb 2, 2008)

Needles, that plug is sealed with an O ring, and you need to drop the pan to remove the plug and get to the o ring, which slips over the plug from the inboard side. An easy job, and you can replace the pan gasket and filter while you're there.


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## NEEDLEZ (Oct 21, 2009)

Thanks man, it's not leaking anywhere else and I cleaned the area like a madman. I will look for the gasket kit for that area on ebay or see if autozone has 1.


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## NEEDLEZ (Oct 21, 2009)

Now to search the internet to figure out what the tranny is so I can head to the parts store and snatch it all up.


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## GTO JUDGE (May 14, 2005)

Not seeing a kickdown cable to the switch, you may want to take care of that while you're at it. Your trans should be a TH400.


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## NEEDLEZ (Oct 21, 2009)

Thanks judge. I will take a look online to understand how it totally works and is set up. I'm going to replace as many of the gaskets I can while I'm down there and try and get that cable hooked up. After this I have a small oil leak to fix above my starter and work over the intake as there is a bandaid on it currently so the antifreeze doesn't leak. I'm ready to do it though and am learning a bit more each day. By the way the simple green worked totally amazing on those pipes. I put a before and after and it's unreal how well that stuff works on the exhaust as mine was pretty nasty.

I assume the kickdown hooks up to that plug and the carb that wasn't in use? I am looking on youtube now so I'll probably be able to figure it out.


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## 68raGTOp (Sep 4, 2011)

A T/H 400 does not use a cable! It uses a electrical switch (looks like what is leaking). A single wire goes to that part. You should have a "slide" type switch mounted to your accelerator pedal, that is what activates the "kick down". You will need to find a wiring diagram for your car to see exactly the electrical path that system takes.


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## NEEDLEZ (Oct 21, 2009)

I don't need a kickdown then? I have never had a problem with the tranny slipping or missing or anything so I thought it seemed odd but I don't know enough yet.


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## 68raGTOp (Sep 4, 2011)

The kick-down is controlled electrically on the T/H 400. The switches, 1 on the accelerator and 1 in the trans. (by your picture the one that was leaking). Those two switches and the wiring between them takes the place of the cable. The wiring should already exist on your car you may have to hunt for it a little as I did not see it in your supplied pictures. The wire that goes to your trans. will come off the engine harness. The wiring for the switch on the pedal is under the dash. Verify the slide switch, is mounted just above the gas pedal (should be white in color). Verify the part on the trans. has a "spade" type electrical terminal. Just in case a previous owner has cut the wires, I would suggest getting a wiring diagram to help locate the wiring. Hope this helps.


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## NEEDLEZ (Oct 21, 2009)

Alright I'll search for a diagram and let everyone know. By the way I purchased a creeper today and holy cow it makes life so much nicer when under there. I spent 3 hours cleaning my pipes yesterday just on my back and my face, neck and, well, everything else hurts. I am really wishing I had it yesterday.


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## GTO JUDGE (May 14, 2005)

Wire, cable, tomato toe-mato... 
When I got my car the wire/cable was melted by the exhaust pipes. I had no kick down, the car ran fine and accelerated when tamped. After the wire/cable was replaced and hooked up, when I accelerated the car launched itself. Do you really need it? No. Does it make a difference? Yes. For a few dollars while you are cleaning and repairing that leak, if it were me I'd do it ....... all over again. You will notice a difference when flooring it.


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## NEEDLEZ (Oct 21, 2009)

Just so I'm clear GTO Judge I can just go ahead and replace it with a kick down cable? I have never had a problem at all but I do notice if I floor it it does hesitate but I assumed that was the carb. I just went online and purchased a new rear bumper for $318 I hate to pay it for something cosmetic but I want to get this all done over the winter


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## NEEDLEZ (Oct 21, 2009)

Alright I get how it works now I punch the pedal down and at 90% it electronically activates the passing gear instead of doing it mechanically. I guess my only question now is that it leaks from the kickdown solenoid, or whatever the proper name is, but there's no place to buy that part or an O ring for it


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## Rukee (Feb 8, 2007)

I haven't had one apart for a long time now, but if it is just an o-ring, any auto parts store should be able to sell you one. Just take the old one with you and match it up to a replacment.


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## Eric Animal (Oct 28, 2007)

:agree or any performance tranny shop.


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## Eric Animal (Oct 28, 2007)

Try Chris at www.CKPerformance.com he is building a tranny for me and has acsess to everything! Eric


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## GTO JUDGE (May 14, 2005)

The kick down wire when hooked up and working will drop down a gear giving you extra torque and quick acceleration when punching it. With out it working the car will just accelerate normally as you apply the pedal. 

When I nail it the trans drops a gear and kicks the car into orbit. Once you hit say 55-60 mph and tramp it it won't kick down, its when you are say 35 -40 mph or so and want to pass someone or get the trans to kick in, is when the trans will kick down a gear and give you that burst. When I tamp it hard the added torque will chirp the tires as I launch. The kick down switch under the dash must be engaged as well.

I don't think the hesitation you are experiencing when punching it now has anything to do with the kick down, that sounds like a carb issue.


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## 68raGTOp (Sep 4, 2011)

NEEDLEZ, Take the part out of the trans and just go to any transmission shop and ask if they have an o-ring. You probably could go to any part store but believe it or not that can be hit or miss, I had to go to 4 different ones to get a special o-ring I needed once. If you can find a shop that has been in business awhile it will help as they are more likely to have some older transmission parts laying around. Don't get discouraged you will find what you need, you just might have to hunt awhile.


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## NEEDLEZ (Oct 21, 2009)

Thanks, I looked online for ever as i just want to replace the plug along with the o-ring but there's nowhere to grab one online. I will swing by a few we have here in town and ask. 

Thanks for the help.


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## NEEDLEZ (Oct 21, 2009)

I dropped the pan and it was all hooked up internally but that plug just doesn't want to come out for as someone has put an adhesive on it from the front to keep it from leaking. It ws all hooked up internally but I will have to run a wire when I'm done to get the kick down properly running. I will try a punch and hammer and knock it out tomorrow.


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## 68raGTOp (Sep 4, 2011)

If I remember correctly. Unplug the wire on the inside and then you should just have to squeeze the tabs on the inside and push it out. I would not hit it with a punch. If you cant get it out, ask a transmission shop it they know a good way to get it out of the case.


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## NEEDLEZ (Oct 21, 2009)

I got it out that was just the stress of it all speaking for me. I thought maybe my tranny would read this and it would Houdini itself out of there. There's 2 clips and they compress and it popped out.


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## NEEDLEZ (Oct 21, 2009)

Well good news. I walked into an old tranny shop in town that has been there for as long as I can recall and he gave me the o ring, gasket and a new solenoid for free and told me semper fi. I was shocked as he saw my plates when I walked in and told me why it was leaking. Apparently the o ring was totally flat, which he showed me the difference. I told him I was new to hot rodding and he said he was glad and gave me his card. Well I'm gonna go clean this pan up and install it all. Thanks for the great advice gents!


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## Eric Animal (Oct 28, 2007)

Most welcome! Also glad you met a good tranny guy!:cheers Eric


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## NEEDLEZ (Oct 21, 2009)

I went out to sears and purchased an advanced timing light for 69.99(thanks to the sticky on this forum) and my uncle sold me his craftsman 1/2 in torque wrench for $30 so I'm all set to hook it up. I have looked online for all of the specs possible for the TH 400 and Pontiac 400 but I'm getting different answers so if anyone has a trusted source I'd love a link.

Thanks again for all your help and once I get the these bolts up and torqued it's onto the fixing the small antifreeze leak from the front of my intake, and properly timing the engine and working on the carb! I'm excited.

BTW I can use a 1/2 to 3/8 to torque bolts correct? I didn't have any 1/2in sockets and just wanted to use my 3/8


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## Rukee (Feb 8, 2007)

Yes you can use a 1/2" to 3/8" reducer. Also be sure to run a tap through all the holes and clean the threads of the bolts so you get an accurate reading/torque.


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## NEEDLEZ (Oct 21, 2009)

Success!!!! I have fixed my first transmission leak and so far so good. I can't believe a little O ring was the culprit. I need to fix my oil leak next. I was tightening up the bolts on the pan and they all were snug but one up front is totally stripped  I think that I'm going to wait and just pull the engine when it's a bit cooler and do what all needs to be done. In the mean time I'm gonna continue cleaning the rest of the under body and time the engine and play with the carb and get some pictures of her.

By the way I mean the oil pan not the transmission pan


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## GTO JUDGE (May 14, 2005)

NEEDLEZ said:


> Success!!!! I have fixed my first transmission leak and so far so good. I can't believe a little O ring was the culprit. I need to fix my oil leak next. I was tightening up the bolts on the pan and they all were snug but one up front is totally stripped  I think that I'm going to wait and just pull the engine when it's a bit cooler and do what all needs to be done. In the mean time I'm gonna continue cleaning the rest of the under body and time the engine and play with the carb and get some pictures of her.
> 
> By the way I mean the oil pan not the transmission pan


If you can tap that hole you can fix it in a few minutes. If not put the next size screw in with some plumbers tape or maybe find a repair kit at a hardware store to temporary fix it, sung up and use Orange RV sealant around the hole.


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## NEEDLEZ (Oct 21, 2009)

I will try to fix it first and see how it goes. I've got a big to do list on it and this winter I am definitely pulling the engine as I want to install a cam and lifter set and clean the engine compartment. I have to play with the tranny a bit when I get home as I drove around the block going like 10mph and I think the transmission fluid might be a quart or so off. I have purchased a few things from summit and am getting a holley book to rebuild my carb.


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## NEEDLEZ (Oct 21, 2009)

I have my car totally tuned up and running great. I drove her for over an hour straight today and it didn;t give me a single problem after I got the carb and timing all tuned in properly. The kickdown gear is working great now and I took it home and looked under the car and I have 1 more glarring problem! I have an oil leak that has decided to attack my entire undercarriage that I worked so hard to totally clean!!!! I am positive it's my rear main seal at this point and am just mad that I have to go clean the entire undercarriage again! Oh well, Jetstang I already have your guid printed off so wish me luck!


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## Rukee (Feb 8, 2007)

Is the block vented with a breather?? Are you using syn oil? pcv working properly?


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## NEEDLEZ (Oct 21, 2009)

I don't have breathers on the covers and I have been using synthetic oil.


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## Rukee (Feb 8, 2007)

NEEDLEZ said:


> I don't have breathers on the covers and I have been using synthetic oil.


If the block is not vented it can cause seals and gaskets to leak, the block needs to vent out the blow-by. Even a freash rebuilt engine needs them.
I have also seen syn oil cause leaks.


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## NorwalkNugget (Aug 5, 2011)

Becareful buddy. When you start leaking like that... the engine is in serious danger. I learned the hard way when my 350 blew. I would seriously consider setting aside some cash now for a replacement engine and then IF you have the funds send this current out for a rebuild or swap it out altogether with the replacement if you don't care about numbers matching. 

I thought I would care but now I don't and thoroughly happy that my car works and runs smooth. Even if someday I sell it at a slight loss compared to what I put into it $$$ wise... you pay to play.


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## likethat (Oct 5, 2007)

I got a 79 Chevy short bed 2 wheel drive truck a long time ago for $100. The guy sold it be cause of the bad oil leaks. I get it home it was running very bad the whole way. I pull the carb for a rebuild, because it has Chevy orange all over it where he painted the engine. Get the carb apart there is Chevy orange every where bowl, jets, metering screw...ect. It had to be running when he was painting it. Anyway I go to give it a tune up why the carb is in the dip tank and notice there is 2 PCV valve, one on both valve covers. I am like that has to be causing some of the oil leeks. Get every thing swapped out and reinstall. One PCV on one side and a breather cap on the other. He said that the guy he got the truck from had built the engine a few years before. I take it out for a test drive and it runs great! Unlike when I drove it home it barely made it. I drive it for the next week no oil leaks at all. Proper ventilation is very critical.


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