# suspension rebuild/restoration '71



## Alaska71 (Dec 26, 2010)

I've got my first one, it's up in the air, and I'm about to go through the back of the car first. It's a bit confusing with the array of new suspension parts/combos. For basic cruzin' and the occasional show-off ( of course), I probably won't need much more than stock. I have been advised to 'go poly' then 'go rubber'. I think if I simply buy new upper and lower control arms with polygraphite bushings, change out the sway bar from 7/8 to 1 1/8", new stock springs and good shocks, Ill be just fine. Trust me, I'll be HAPPY to listen to any opinions, and Thanks!


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## freethinker (Nov 14, 2009)

Alaska71 said:


> I've got my first one, it's up in the air, and I'm about to go through the back of the car first. It's a bit confusing with the array of new suspension parts/combos. For basic cruzin' and the occasional show-off ( of course), I probably won't need much more than stock. I have been advised to 'go poly' then 'go rubber'. I think if I simply buy new upper and lower control arms with polygraphite bushings, change out the sway bar from 7/8 to 1 1/8", new stock springs and good shocks, Ill be just fine. Trust me, I'll be HAPPY to listen to any opinions, and Thanks!



i hear poly squeaks after a while. wouldnt use it for street use. new stock should be fine.all that plus a big improvement is a rear roll bar if your car doesnt have one.


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## tyscru (Sep 29, 2009)

I used polygraphite when i replaced my bushings. No noise noted but i have only had the car out a couple of times since changing. I used the polygraphite because of numerous comments about polyurethane squeaking. I didn't want to use rubber because i changed my bushings about 15 or so years ago and with very little driving the bushings all broke down and wore out. I also replaced springs because they got weak and the car was setting very low to the ground.


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## dimitri (Feb 13, 2009)

I have 300,000 hard mile on my 68. I live for the twisties. I am real happy with my set up. Largest sway bars you can run with stock rims, a-arms, and rear control arms are 1.25" front and 7/8" back. I put Moog rubber bushings front and rear. On the rear control arms when I had them off I welded them up, boxed them. From Coil Spring Specialtiies I ordered stock highth 20% stiffer than stock front and rear coil spings. KYB's all around.


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## 70gtorag (Nov 17, 2010)

I replaced my rear end bushings about 15 years ago with polyurethane, and I think they were bought from Energy Suspension. They will squeak when I back out of the driveway slowly over the sidewalk curb, and pretty much always have.

I am also looking at doing the rear suspension again, along with new body bushings and front end control arm bushings. I just wonder if the technology is improved since I did mine 15 years ago? Have had guys tell me that oem rubber is the way to go, but moog rubber is expensive, and it does not give the increased performance that I am looking for. So is polyurethane the way to go?

So far I am leaning towards the polyurethane from Performance Suspension Technology. They have the best website and catalogue. They list their products as being graphite impregnated, is that different than the polyurethane from Energy Suspension? Anyone able to explain the difference,.. is there a difference? Any suggestions on other manufacturers for the bushings?


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## 69Goatee (Aug 14, 2009)

I rebuilt the entire front end on my '69 Goat with a polygraphite kit from PST about 13 years ago, when I put power disc brakes on. The car was a daily driver in Kansas for about 8 years, I put over 40k HARD miles on it in that time.I was a young punk with a hot car! I never had any squeaks from the bushings. I took the entire car apart about 3 years ago for a restoration and the bushings still look new and tight, and they are staying where they are.


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## Eric Animal (Oct 28, 2007)

Polygraphite bushings are impregnated with graphite. Graphite is a DRY lubricant used for things like lubricating lock cylinders. It won't attrack grit, sand, etc. Polygraphite bushings are supposed to be quiet. IF you use hard bushings, you SHOULD consider ball and socket front (of rear upper) control arms. This is due to the fact that the uppers are on an angle and must flex around thier mounting points to work properly. Get adjustable ones on aftermarket arms. This will allow you to set/adjust the pinion angle.
SPRINGS---use springs that will give you the desired ride height, and degree of firmness that you desire (Eaton spring), for instance. Shocks should NOT be used to detirmine ride height. A good quality gas shock should be fine.
Sway Bar---1 1/8'' will give you plenty of rear end control. 
You will have a good performing/looking set up !!! Don't forget the front suspension, it is more "important" then the rear for great handling ! Eric:cheers


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## freethinker (Nov 14, 2009)

and dont raise it up too high. a body cars have terrible front suspension geometry and it only gets worse the higher you lift it.


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## Instg8ter (Sep 28, 2010)

+1 eric on rear setup and Free on raising it, don't wanna look like "joe Dirt" car either


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## Bensjammin66 (May 12, 2009)

Street driving I agree with rubber in the stock arms. Box the lower, add a bar and new springs and shocks and go. Poly is nice and stiff but squeeks. Roto joints are the hot ticket for performance. UMI makes a killer set of upper and lowers. Car handles like its on rails. Roto joints on one end and fluted greasable poly on the other.


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