# Standard Manifold to Ram Air Manifold exhaust upgrade



## Lemanster70 (Jul 24, 2016)

Hi Guys, 

First Post Here.

I have a 1970 Pontiac Lemans Sport with the original Pontiac 350 in it. I have the standard log type manifolds with the GTO valance and the chrome splitters. I am looking to upgrade to the Ram Air manifolds from Ram Air Restorations and the 2 1/2 inch exhaust they sell. Has anyone had any experience converting a 68-72 from standard manifolds to Ram Air manifolds? so far this is what I found out:

-It needs a longer battery cable, does anyone know the length?

-It needs the HO/RA battery cable shield that mounts to the engine mount

-I am thinking I need to buy an engine harness for the wires to go through the cable shield for the starter

Is there anything I am missing? Any input from experience in doing this?

Thanks,

Curt


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## 1968gto421 (Mar 28, 2014)

Plan on using them but $ has pended any action on this. Will be interested in what you learn.

I believe that both Goat Roper and Bear GFR use these manifolds on their GTO's and hopefully will chime in with some advice for you on this. I'm sure there are other forum members using them, I just can't remember right now.


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## Lemanster70 (Jul 24, 2016)

Yeah 1968gto421, it isn't going to be cheap, I am already around $1,300 and that would not include the wiring harness but I have been saving for this for a while now, it is not that easy when you have a wife and 2 kids under the age of 5! The kids, not the wife! Haha! I want to do this right though so if it needs something that I don't know about, I would like to know so I can get it and not have any surprises.


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## GTO JUDGE (May 14, 2005)

Lemanster70 said:


> Hi Guys,
> 
> First Post Here.
> 
> ...


See in Red


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## bigD (Jul 21, 2016)

"... it isn't going to be cheap, I am already around $1,300..."


You can get by a bit cheaper by using non coated manifolds. :smile3:


68-81 Pontiac Ram Air Exhaust Manifolds 2.5" RPE652H

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/...0b8Qdr5wqWoniMBrNM1d-CwAoGcBxJxYr0aAjPj8P8HAQ


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## Goat Roper (Oct 28, 2014)

I would suggest a mini starter from RobbMc, you can rotate the solenoid 180 degrees away from the manifold and eliminate the mini easy bake oven that attaches to the motor mount.

RobbMc Performance Products - RobbMc Mini-Starters

When I did the conversion I had to pull the engine due to a bad rebuild by CVMS and with less than 500 miles on it that tube was already cooking the wires on my new loom.
I eliminated the tube with the solenoid pointing down and next to the oil pan it isn't needed once I swapped out the starter.


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## Lemanster70 (Jul 24, 2016)

Thanks for the responses guys!

GTO JUDGE- I was looking for the length of the cable because if I order a battery cable through Ames or some other resto catalog, I will get the spring end battery terminal and I just wanted a regular one that gives bolt tension rather than spring tension. Nobody will tell me the length and I really don't want to buy a $50 cable just to get the length and then go buy the one I want.

So the length of the starter wires are sufficient to route them through the Ram Air battery tube on the engine mount or do they route another way?

Goat Roper- So another option is using the starter you mentioned and then I don't have to reroute the battery cable at all? I can still leave it in the original tube?


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## Goat Roper (Oct 28, 2014)

_Goat Roper- So another option is using the starter you mentioned and then I don't have to reroute the battery cable at all? I can still leave it in the original tube? _

The original tube will cook the wires with the HO manifold.
I bought a HO wire harness, the tube that goes on the motor mount, metal starter shield and heat shield blanket and that tube also cooked the wires.
With the mini starter I used the HO wire loom but was able to run the wires lower along the oil pan and away from the manifold.
I don't remember the length of the battery cable, I took a piece of tie wire and routed it from the starter up the front of the engine to the battery pulled it out and measured it.
With the mini starter you may be able to run your wires down the inner fender then across to the terminals on the starter.
You can see in this picture how the terminals are down low next to the pan instead of crammed up next to the manifold.
This finally cured my hot start issue.


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## 1968gto421 (Mar 28, 2014)

Goat Roper said:


> _Goat Roper- So another option is using the starter you mentioned and then I don't have to reroute the battery cable at all? I can still leave it in the original tube? _
> 
> The original tube will cook the wires with the HO manifold.
> I bought a HO wire harness, the tube that goes on the motor mount, metal starter shield and heat shield blanket and that tube also cooked the wires.
> ...


GR, Did you use the "plain" RobbMc starter (Pontiac Gen II Mini-Starter – PN 3004) ? Did you bother with the Pinion Support Modification for safety or use the starter "as is"?
Thanks.


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## Goat Roper (Oct 28, 2014)

Yes, I used it as is since the support isn't needed unless you have a higher HP build.


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## Lemanster70 (Jul 24, 2016)

Update- I called American Autowire and told him what I was trying to do, looks like the original Ram Air battery cable is 41 inches long from end to end of cable (not including connectors) and is 4 gauge.

So Now I should be able route it the way you said with the starter you said to use Goat Roper.


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## BearGFR (Aug 25, 2008)

Depends on how close to "original" you want to be. (BTW, I'm running headers on my car and not the manifolds). You could use a length of rope to measure the distance from the starter, along the side of the engine to the front, up near the fuel pump, and thence to the battery (choosing a routing that looks pleasing to you and keeps the cable away from "hot stuff"), purchase a cable in that length, and install it. You could even wrap it with header wrap for protection and leave it in the open or make your own "tube" if you wanted. You could use 2-3 of something like this










under a few of the oil pan bolts to secure the cable, or come up with your own solution for holding the cable.

Unless you're planning to put the car into all original concours level shows judged by people very knowledgable about Pontiacs, as long as it looks 'clean', no one is going to give it a second look. For me though, the most important things are functionality and reliability. YMMV

Bear


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## Goat Roper (Oct 28, 2014)

I was going to fab up a bracket that dropped down from the oil pan but the cable is stout enough that I just zip tied the red and purple wires to it and called it done.
I don't care about the concours judges, they aren't the ones stuck on the road with a hot start problem.

Of course I could have left it all original and bought a trailer for it.


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