# What to do with this rust?



## BatmanGTO (Jun 18, 2011)

Hi all, really the only place that I can see that has any amount of rust is under the hood. I wonder do I need to do anything to keep it from spreading? Should I take that insulation off and put new? I wonder if more rust is under there.

Thanks!


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## Thumpin455 (Feb 17, 2010)

A few things you can do. That is very minor rust. You can blast it, convert it, sand/wire brush it, or use POR15 on it. Be sure to get under the insulation too.


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## Eric Animal (Oct 28, 2007)

:agree but personally, I'd have it soda blasted (so as NOT to warp the metal) then primed and painted. E


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## Instg8ter (Sep 28, 2010)

:agree do not sandblast it, daughters BF got crazy with mine and i ended up working on it for two weeks to flatten out the warpage.


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## ALKYGTO (Mar 29, 2010)

You could just buy one of the Harbor Frieght bucket blasters (If you have a decent size compressor) and do that spot since it's on the underside.

Just don't get crazy. Industrial sandblasters will warp panels because of the pressure/volume they put out. 

A home blaster is pretty safe, just don't concentrate on one spot too much.


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## Eric Animal (Oct 28, 2007)

And don't let any get down the carb or oil fill


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## Thumpin455 (Feb 17, 2010)

Honestly what I would do is just hit it with a hand held wire brush to knock off the scale, and put some POR15 on it. If I were going to blast it, I would use a small hand held speed blaster and remove the hood to do it. If that is all the car has that thing is super clean.


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## ALKYGTO (Mar 29, 2010)

Yeah, you might want to take the hood off the car for some sandblasting :lol:.

It gets everywhere. :willy:


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## BatmanGTO (Jun 18, 2011)

Thanks guys. I won't say this is the ONLY place, but I've posted allot of underside pics too and you can see shes pretty clean. It has lived in Cali and Texas its whole life (was made in Cali). The lack of rust was one of the reasons I bought this car. Plus it has only 1 dent in it. The rest is just scuffs in the paint. I will admit that one dent is really bugging me, I might see if a body shop can smooth it out. It is above the driver side rear almost at the top.

I'll go ahead and try sanding it. I'm not too crazy about the blasting idea, plus I'd need to buy a blaster. I already have a wire brush and sand paper. Would Autozone have POR15?


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## BearGFR (Aug 25, 2008)

Tell you what I'd do because of where it is - I'd hit it with a wire brush and sand paper, the goal being to get all the loose stuff off that you can. Then I hit it with some of this stuff, enough to make sure all the rust was "handled" --- then paint with a flat black that matches the rest of the hood underside, and call it good.

Bear


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## Josh.AZ.GTO (Jul 11, 2009)

I would use a wire brush and sand paper and get all the scale off and then hit it with some POR15 or rust converter. If that is truly all there is on that section..... this is the route I would take, due to ease of not having to remove the hood. I would also replace the hood insulation and then paint entire underside to match the repair. IMO.


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## Too Many Projects (Nov 15, 2008)

I'm with Bear. I use Eastwood Rust Converter on EVERYTHING I sand/blast/scrape/wipe. I've gone thru a dozen aerosol cans on the GTO and Chevelle now. Once dry, you can paint right over it as a base primer.
I WOULD remove the entire mat and inspect. IF you are careful to use a needle nose pliers to release the clips and scrape the mat loose where it is glued, you could re-use it all.


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## geeteeohguy (Feb 2, 2008)

I have done what Bear suggested a few years back with one of my projects and it flat worked. Same deal: surface rust issue in a localized area with no structural issues....the converter stuff was amazing. I painted it, and you can not tell.


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## BatmanGTO (Jun 18, 2011)

I found more rust! 

This is the first I emptied out the trunk, it had all the old parts from the motor, spare tire, 2 full size and a indoor cover. Anyway, he had this rubber type flooring in it. A little bit of rust caught my eye when taking out the tires so I pulled everything and found a nasty mess under that rubber pad.  Some spots were still damp! I can only imagine it got wet when he cleaned it. I tested the weather strip and it don't leak. Plus I have a cover on it and when I washed the car I use a blower and wipe the seals. So I am positive I didn't put it there. 

Well I took out the wire brush and sand paper. I think I need something more aggressive to get it out, it looks a little better. What grit sand paper do you use? I killed my wire brush. Should I use Eastwood Rust Converter here too?


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## Instg8ter (Sep 28, 2010)

thats all you need to do with the converter or POR 15 it turns the rust into carbon and encapsulates it from moisture, leak is most likely around your rear window molding, these cars are notorious for that with the fastback fins and they set lower stock than most these days so when you lift the back the water will run toward the window channel and pool under the trim, water will find the path of least resistance and flow downhill so a little pinhole is all it takes.


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## BatmanGTO (Jun 18, 2011)

Wow, didn't know the window would leak into the trunk. I think you are right. Window seal is toast. But I did use my blower to blow all the water out from under the trim. I guess itI could have got in there while I was washing it and before I blew it out.

So it was likely both the PO and myself that put the water in there.


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## Too Many Projects (Nov 15, 2008)

:agree You don't want to remove all the rust or the converter doesn't work. What you've done is good. And that isn't a nasty mess. That is near mint compared to what I and others, have to work with...


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## BatmanGTO (Jun 18, 2011)

lol, thanks for the tips. Good to know about not removing all the rust. If you seen the back of the rubber mat it was a nasty mess. I do fear I need to drop the tank as I can see some rust that looks like my hood above the tank.


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## jetstang (Nov 5, 2008)

Sorry to say, your trunk looks really good, my 70 looked the same way 6 months after I redid it, had a rear window leak. Put rust all over my new floor mat. I used the silver por-15 in my entire trunk and rust wont' be an issue again. I haven't used the rust encapsulator and I'm sure it's good stuff. POR-15 is just the best stuff, $50 a quart, paint it on and you are done, unless you want to top coat it.


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## likethat (Oct 5, 2007)

When I worked at the Airport one of the mechanics had a 66 Malibu. It was a very very nice driver restoration. He used the seam sealer that they use on the planes. It is silver and it is a 2 part seam sealer called B 1/2. This stuff is 10x tougher then silicone but as pliable. He put it under the window trim front and back. Looks like he filled the channel then added the trim to the clips and then used denatured alcohol to smooth it out and cut it back to just a tiny bit pasted the trim to the window and body. It looked very professional. You had to get right up on it to see it was there. Even then it was hard to see. That kept all the water and debris out from under the trim. No more rot. I have 2 sets of it. I wish I had more. Company perks.


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## jetstang (Nov 5, 2008)

Likethat, good idea.
If your rear window is leaking, there may be rot back there, hopefully just a reseal issue. If you have the window pulled and resealed, definatelly clean the channel and POR 15 it, POR 15 seals it against future rust, but coat the backside of the channel also. 
My buddy has a glass doctor franchise, or a few of them, and they say if you silicone around the window it will break down the glass and is a bad thing. I haven't heard of anyone installing drains in the channel, that would work, and my Vette has them all over the place.


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## BatmanGTO (Jun 18, 2011)

Thanks guys. So first use Eastwood Rust Converter, then paint the entire thing with POR 15? 

I guess I really need to get that window looked at. Any articles here to show me how to remove the trim?

Glad to hear the trunk will be OK, my heart about stopped when I first saw it. But I'm new to all this and am still learning what is good and bad when it comes to damage.

Thanks!!!


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## jetstang (Nov 5, 2008)

I think it's one or the other. Get a POR-15 kit, that has the etch and all. I just use POR over the rust. People say POR doesn't stick great to good metal, but your trunk has enough ruffage that is should work perfect. I really like POR on it's own, but haven't tried Rust encapsolator ever. I will, but for now that if you put POR on, you have to chisel it off, it's stronger than any paint. I use it everywhere.
If you get it on your skin, you own it, it isn't coming off for ALONG time..
You need a hook to get in behind the trim to pull the spring loaded clips free from the trim. When I did my 66 I found the hole window channel was fiberglass, not a spec of metal in it. I replaced the fill panel between the rear window and trunk on both my cars, and my 70 is pretty much rust free-except for there..


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## BatmanGTO (Jun 18, 2011)

Has anyone tried the RustBullet? Looks like allot of prep work for the POR 15. And right on the eastwood site I see many complaints it never seems to dry. lol, I guess it don't matter, just the inside of the trunk so only I will ever see it.


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## Unclesams (Jun 5, 2009)

TMP gives good advice however I will ad more option that is simpler and cheaper: Order a can of Gibbs Lubricant and carefully spray it on the surface rusted area. See the write up in Hi Perf Pontiac and do some homework on it on the web,

Gibbs Lubricant 
Gibbs Brand Lubricant at GIBBSBRANDLUBRICANT.COM


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## BatmanGTO (Jun 18, 2011)

lol, I guess I'll go ahead and try them all. I'll see what works best for me and report back. Thanks all.


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## BearGFR (Aug 25, 2008)

BatmanGTO said:


> ...And right on the eastwood site I see many complaints it never seems to dry...


Yeah, I read those too. I didn't have that problem with it. I have a quart bottle of the stuff and I always shake it thoroughly before use, pour a little bit out into a Dixie cup, and apply it generously with a paint brush only to areas that have rust. Drying depends on the chemical reaction when it interacts with the rust, so once it's on I wipe it off the areas that don't need it. It's easy to spot because as it reacts it will start to turn purple-ish black fairly quickly while the 'other' spots will stay the original tan color. It says right on the label to let it dry/cure for at least 48 hours and I give it that and then some. Not to question what the other reviewers have said about it, but it's always dried just fine for me.

Bear


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