# Oil smells like gasoline



## 1967pontiac400 (Dec 10, 2020)

Hey all. 

How normal is it to have your oil smell like gas? I just hanged my oil ~100 miles ago and it smells strongly of gasoline upon an inspection today. I did have a previous flooding issue and that's since been corrected with a fuel regulator valve since I'm running a 67 fuel pump into a 65 tripower. 

I have also noticed that when I punch it at lower speeds, in the rear view mirror I can see sort of a white looking cloud. Could I just be running insanely rich and need re-jetting?

Thanks as always!


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## BLK69JUDGE (Jun 10, 2010)

do I understand you correctly
you didnt change oil after your flooding issue and your running the thinned out oil that has no lubrication hardly left
'in it still ?
I hope not ,,,
or your fuel pump is bad and dumping fuel in the oil ,,, that will blow your valve covers off ,,, ask me how I know ??
white in the exhaust is usually moisture/steam ...or tranny fluid burns white also check your vacuum hose at the tranny
inside for fluid ...
blue for oil or thinned oil n gas 
black is fuel


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## Lemans guy (Oct 14, 2014)

Solid advice from blk69judge as always,.......listen to the judge. Oil and filter change, fuel pressure double check, with a gauge.....try leaning your mixture screws just barely.

And you said Tri power set up, which only idles off the center carb. So make sure that your throttle plates on the end carbs are closed appropriately tight at idle. Make sure your spring set up is not to week. You don’t want end carbs pulling fuel at idle and washing cylinders down.

You will get it right, go slow one step at a time...


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## armyadarkness (Dec 7, 2020)

After 3 months of hard core "trail and error" tuning and diagnosis, I have bit of the same, gas in oil. Now I blew the dipstick out twice, so it's new fuel pump and ME Wagner PCV. 

But until it's resolved, I'll change the oil every day, if I have to


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## armyadarkness (Dec 7, 2020)

Lemans guy said:


> Solid advice from blk69judge as always,.......listen to the judge. Oil and filter change, fuel pressure double check, with a gauge.....try leaning your mixture screws just barely.
> 
> And you said Tri power set up, which only idles off the center carb. So make sure that your throttle plates on the end carbs are closed appropriately tight at idle. Make sure your spring set up is not to week. You don’t want end carbs pulling fuel at idle and washing cylinders down.
> 
> You will get it right, go slow one step at a time...


Ordered the Me Wagner last night


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## Lemans guy (Oct 14, 2014)

Oh that is “weak”....not “week”.........but I suppose it could be both.....weak all week...


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## armyadarkness (Dec 7, 2020)

I have a regukator and gauge on my fuel system, and it's performing as set, 5.5... But I also have that Edelbrock fuel pump, which I'll be installing tomorrow.


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## Lemans guy (Oct 14, 2014)

That is one of the best things anyone can do for their hot rod....the ME Wagner PCV...you put it on yourself, you tune it to your engine, and it relieves that crankcase pressure 99% of the time. It often stops gaskets leaks, even rear main seals and it is eminently tunable, you can dial it up if needed.

Stops all that oil blowing out of your breather on hard runs too.

The keys are making sure that you have theWagner valve baffled or it will pull to much oil, and make sure that you have a good breather on one of the valve covers.

I don’t go for pretty, billet chromy things.....I use a very small K&N breather filter. Good clean air and washable about 2 1/2 inches in diameter. Looks like a mini K&N air filter....

A great piece of engineering like the ME Wagner needs a good breather on the other side.


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## armyadarkness (Dec 7, 2020)

Lemans guy said:


> That is one of the best things anyone can do for their hot rod....the ME Wagner PCV...you put it on yourself, you tune it to your engine, and it relieves that crankcase pressure 99% of the time. It often stops gaskets leaks, even rear main seals and it is eminently tunable, you can dial it up if needed.
> 
> Stops all that oil blowing out of your breather on hard runs too.
> 
> ...


Our PCV's are in the valley pan, so a baffle wouldnt be necessary, correct? I installed the Edelebrock finned valve covers and I machined a breather into the side of each.


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## Lemans guy (Oct 14, 2014)

If it is the valley pan and the valley pan is original it is baffled. When you buy the Wagner get the Pontiac adapter for the Valley Pan. It will fit in easy then. You can see it on their website. It is an extension to make it work easy.


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## Lemans guy (Oct 14, 2014)

2 breathers is great with Wagner in the valley pan....that will be a nice set-Up


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## armyadarkness (Dec 7, 2020)

Lemans guy said:


> If it is the valley pan and the valley pan is original it is baffled. When you buy the Wagner get the Pontiac adapter for the Valley Pan. It will fit in easy then. You can see it on their website. It is an extension to make it work easy.


The website was a bit confusing when it came to the adapters, but I ordered it all last night. Thanks for the tip on this!

When I swapped out my dizzy the other day, I noticed oil everywhere back there, and the dipstick was out a bit, but I though that was a coincidence. Coincidentally, full synthetic oil with less than 100 miles on it, was black and smelled like gas, but I attributed that to all of my recent tuning experiments. I changed the oil, cleaned everything, went for a run, smelled oil, popped the hood, and there was oil EVERYWHERE... dipstick popped again!

Went home and ordered the Wagner!


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## Lemans guy (Oct 14, 2014)

Good move, I had to dial my Wagner way up, like 2 1/2 to 3 turns at idle setting to get it where there were no gasket leaks, but it finally did it, not a drip anywhere. So start with the specs Wagner says, 1 1/2 turns out on idle circuit to start, but you can go much more. They even have fixed orifice mode. So you have to stay with it.

I also use a catch can and that really helps you see how much oil it is pulling out. I use a radium engineering can. Very good. They are nice, have a dipstick too. But that is not necessary.


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## Lemans guy (Oct 14, 2014)

Make sure your dizzy gasket is fresh and check your oil galley top plug just to the left toward driver of the dizzy. Make sure it is tight and sealed. I run an oil pressure gauge from there....but they can be forgotten and leak


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## armyadarkness (Dec 7, 2020)

Lemans guy said:


> Good move, I had to dial my Wagner way up, like 2 1/2 to 3 turns at idle setting to get it where there were no gasket leaks, but it finally did it, not a drip anywhere. So start with the specs Wagner says, 1 1/2 turns out on idle circuit to start, but you can go much more. They even have fixed orifice mode. So you have to stay with it.
> 
> I also use a catch can and that really helps you see how much oil it is pulling out. I use a radium engineering can. Very good. They are nice, have a dipstick too. But that is not necessary.


I built a catch can for my LS1 Trans AM, and it worked miracles. I'd like to see a picture of your routing and installation. I assume it keeps engine oil out of the combustion process, for a cleaner burn?


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## armyadarkness (Dec 7, 2020)

Lemans guy said:


> Make sure your dizzy gasket is fresh and check your oil galley top plug just to the left toward driver of the dizzy. Make sure it is tight and sealed. I run an oil pressure gauge from there....but they can be forgotten and leak


Glad you mentioned it, I need to install a new oil gauge and it has a sending unit, so I was going to have to fight with the tranny lines to install it. maybe itll fit there.


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## armyadarkness (Dec 7, 2020)

Just found this puppy!


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## 1967pontiac400 (Dec 10, 2020)

After the first occurrence of flooding last time where even the plugs were wet, I changed plugs, changed oil and filter and installed the fuel regulator which I have set to 3.5 PSI. Since then I have not had a serious flooding occurrence where the plugs got wet. 

However, with that I have noticed that the fresh oil has started to smell like gas. I'm running 101 so it's impossible not to pick up on the smell. 

What would be a sign of a bad fuel pump? I know I'm flowing well since I had to add the regulator, so it's kicking out more than the tripower can even handle (w.o the regulator). I have breathers on both valve covers and have not noticed anything funky going on in there.


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## armyadarkness (Dec 7, 2020)

1967pontiac400 said:


> After the first occurrence of flooding last time where even the plugs were wet, I changed plugs, changed oil and filter and installed the fuel regulator which I have set to 3.5 PSI. Since then I have not had a serious flooding occurrence where the plugs got wet.
> 
> However, with that I have noticed that the fresh oil has started to smell like gas. I'm running 101 so it's impossible not to pick up on the smell.
> 
> What would be a sign of a bad fuel pump? I know I'm flowing well since I had to add the regulator, so it's kicking out more than the tripower can even handle (w.o the regulator). I have breathers on both valve covers and have not noticed anything funky going on in there.


I would test you PCV system. If it fails, then that's your issue. If it passes, then it could still be under-performing, or it could be your fuel pump. Either way, the Wagner is an expensive PCV, but a very cheap improvement, especially considering the improvements.

Do some poking around on this site! 



Understanding how a PCV valve may be causing your engine’s problems – M/E Wagner Performance Products


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## 1967pontiac400 (Dec 10, 2020)

Forgive my ignorance, but how does the PVC contribute to gas in the oil? Unless it's not working at all the pressure would cause oil to end up in the cylinder and get burned up, not the other way around, right?


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## 1967pontiac400 (Dec 10, 2020)

armyadarkness said:


> I built a catch can for my LS1 Trans AM, and it worked miracles. I'd like to see a picture of your routing and installation. I assume it keeps engine oil out of the combustion process, for a cleaner burn?


I'd like to see this too! I have an oil catch-can that was on my 2016 Camaro SS that helped clean-up any blow-by from getting into the intake manifold. I'd love to find a way to adapt the unit for my GTO!


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## armyadarkness (Dec 7, 2020)

1967pontiac400 said:


> Forgive my ignorance, but how does the PVC contribute to gas in the oil? Unless it's not working at all the pressure would cause oil to end up in the cylinder and get burned up, not the other way around, right?


All piston rings have some amount of blow-by (raw gas and exhaust), plus there is condensation in the crankcase as well. Obviously all of that creates a caustic environment, which is in direct contact with your oil. It's the PCV's job to evacuate it all, but experts claim that it's not doing it's job. My engine only has about 1000 miles on it and it's blowing oil out of gaskets and blowing the dipstick out! Also, my oil is contaminated like yours.

The PCV will vacuum out those gases.I hope!


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## armyadarkness (Dec 7, 2020)

1967pontiac400 said:


> I'd like to see this too! I have an oil catch-can that was on my 2016 Camaro SS that helped clean-up any blow-by from getting into the intake manifold. I'd love to find a way to adapt the unit for my GTO!


That was how I got into them. My 2000 Trans Am/ LS1 used a horizontal pcv, which was notorious for allowing oil to be sucke into the intake. My throttle blade was ugly. However, there're two issues there... One is blow by, which is contaminating your oil, the second is oil getting sucked up in the PCV system, and contaminating your intake tract.

The proper function of the PCV system will allow the caustic vapors to be eliminated from the crankcase, before they contaminate your oil, but it won't necessarily prevent oil from being sucked up into the intake.


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## armyadarkness (Dec 7, 2020)

1967pontiac400 said:


> I'd like to see this too! I have an oil catch-can that was on my 2016 Camaro SS that helped clean-up any blow-by from getting into the intake manifold. I'd love to find a way to adapt the unit for my GTO!


As for routing the catch can... You would go out of the valley pan/ PCV, into the catch can's inlet, and then out of the catch can's outlet and into the carb or intake port.


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## Lemans guy (Oct 14, 2014)

There is some photos. I use a Radium Catch can this is a medium size mounted to the head. You don"t need one this big. It has an oil filter like bottom that screws on and a valve in the bottom with a drain **** on a hose to easily clean it out. just turn that red petcock and it drains. They have like an 8 oz universal one.

you route from the PCV valve to the Catch can inlet, mine is on top and then all of the crud and blowby filters throw a metal screen that looks like brillo and drops to the bottom of the can, the chamber is in vacumn which sucks the vacumn through INTAKE vacumn......into the side ..

so the can is in intake vacumn to the PCV and beyond the PCV is crankcase vacumn. The PCV regulates when and how much it pulls and keeps a 1 to 3Hg vac on the crankcase...The intake vacumn is what is evacuating the vapors for you...............


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## BearGFR (Aug 25, 2008)

Gas in your oil = VERY BAD. How can it be getting there? Excessive fuel pressure, faulty needle/seat, float level(s) too high, running extremely rich - just to name a few causes.

Why is it bad? Two reasons: oil that's been thinned out by gasoline doesn't do a very good job of "being oil" -- there's a much more likely exposure of metal to metal contact in your main and/or rod bearings. They tend not to last long when that happens. Second reason: Fuel wash - rinsing the oil film off your cylinders and piston skirts, leading to rapid excessive wear on cylinder walls, pistons, and rings.

Do not keep driving it like this unless you're ready to have all the above happen. When you smell fuel in your oil, it's time for an oil and filter change regardless of how 'old' the oil is.

Bear


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## 1967pontiac400 (Dec 10, 2020)

So I have a pressure regulator now, I have checked all needled and seats, checked float levels. The only thing else I can think of might be jets??

What else might I be missing? I will change the oil tomorrow, but this keeps happening! Grr.


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## BearGFR (Aug 25, 2008)

1967pontiac400 said:


> So I have a pressure regulator now, I have checked all needled and seats, checked float levels. The only thing else I can think of might be jets??
> 
> What else might I be missing? I will change the oil tomorrow, but this keeps happening! Grr.


What kind of carburetion are you running?


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## 1967pontiac400 (Dec 10, 2020)

65 tripower on a 69, 400.


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## armyadarkness (Dec 7, 2020)

1967pontiac400 said:


> So I have a pressure regulator now, I have checked all needled and seats, checked float levels. The only thing else I can think of might be jets??
> 
> What else might I be missing? I will change the oil tomorrow, but this keeps happening! Grr.


We spent the day discussing the importance of the PCV system and evacuating crankcase gasses, so have you already tested and verified that to be in working order? If you Google PVC problems, there are at least three reputable websites that discuss your exact problems. I think you should test it. Yes, it might cost a $150 PCV valve, but based on what you're saying, if it isnt the PCV, then it's valve seals or rings. I think the cheapest and most logical next step, is PCV.


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## Lemans guy (Oct 14, 2014)

Maybe your power valve is stuck open, that can cause an overly rich condition easily.

Google this ....”How to mod Tri-power 2GC power valve”.....

make sure it works and PD has a gasket.....even if new things can stick or someone can forget to put on the gasket...


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## 1967pontiac400 (Dec 10, 2020)

I had a power valve that was very stiff so I replaced it with a more easily movable one, I don't recall a gasket. That might be something for me to double check.


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## 1967pontiac400 (Dec 10, 2020)

I have to look further into PCV. I don't think that's the issue, but I've been surprised before!


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## Lemans guy (Oct 14, 2014)

Good PCV system makes everything better, takes out corrosive vapors, takes high pressure away from gaskets and seals causing leaks, allows pistons to go down not against a pressurized chamber, but a vacumn...the absence of pressure.

If you just use breathers and no PCV your pistons are going down against at least atmospheric pressure 14.7 PSI and really more from pressure buildup in the crankcase..

Why not have the slight vacumn evacuating the vapors and crud, not making your engine work so hard and being kind to your gaskets.....everybody should show kindness to gaskets....

When you start a fight with your gaskets and seals you always lose in the long run....


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## 1967pontiac400 (Dec 10, 2020)

Sorry if I missed it, how do I check my PCV system?


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## PontiacJim (Dec 29, 2012)

1967pontiac400 said:


> So I have a pressure regulator now, I have checked all needled and seats, checked float levels. The only thing else I can think of might be jets??
> 
> What else might I be missing? I will change the oil tomorrow, but this keeps happening! Grr.


My guess in reading all the replies - the rubber diaphragm within the fuel pump has a hole/tear in it and if/when this happens, the fuel can be pushed out of the pump housing where the fuel pump arm sticks through the housing and spill into the oil and now you have gas building up in the oil. The ethanol gas can deteriorate the rubber diaphragm, just like rubber hose, if it is not a fuel pump having the diaphragm that is compatible with ethanol laced gas. There is no way to know if it is leaking without removal.

Next check would be a compression test to see if you have a low cylinder pressure in one or several cylinders indicating worn or even a broken ring allowing fuel past and collect in the oil, but you would most likely have an engine trailing smoke out the exhaust and you would be consuming oil.


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## 1967pontiac400 (Dec 10, 2020)

I've done a compression test recently and all is well there, not consuming oil or anything like that.

I also have a new pump and only run non-ethanol 101 gas - but I suppose the pump could have gone bad already?


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## 1967pontiac400 (Dec 10, 2020)

While we're on the topic of fuel, I see for a 67, there are fuel pumps with and without return lines. Is there any need for one vs. another?


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## armyadarkness (Dec 7, 2020)

1967pontiac400 said:


> I've done a compression test recently and all is well there, not consuming oil or anything like that.
> 
> I also have a new pump and only run non-ethanol 101 gas - but I suppose the pump could have gone bad already?


If it's a rebuilt fuel pump, especially a large chain, non-name one, then I wouldn't assume that it's not your issue. I just had a water pump explode, with less than 50 miles on it, and it took out the original 67 fan with it.

That being said, the nice thing about cleaning up the PCV system, is that you need it, regardless of whether it's your issue or not.


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## AZTempest (Jun 11, 2019)

1967pontiac400 said:


> While we're on the topic of fuel, I see for a 67, there are fuel pumps with and without return lines. Is there any need for one vs. another?


The return lines came on A/C cars. You can run either or if you have a return line. I had trouble finding a pump a few years back that had the return. I ran the single for a few years then finally put the correct one on when available. All that's needed is to block off the line not used. Of course you lose the function of that line.


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## BearGFR (Aug 25, 2008)

1967pontiac400 said:


> I've done a compression test recently and all is well there, not consuming oil or anything like that.
> 
> I also have a new pump and only run non-ethanol 101 gas - but I suppose the pump could have gone bad already?


It also could have been bad out of the box. These days "new" does not always mean "good".

I've heard of problems with tripowers where the throttle bores themselves and also the bores where the throttle sharft rides can become worn so that air leaks in through both, resulting in the carbs feeding fuel 100% of the time, even when they shouldn't be. Some folks have put block-off plates under the end carbs to completely take them out of the picture as a temporary solution. Of course that kills performance but so does losing an engine from inadequate lubrication.

I think if it were me, I'd be installing an air/fuel meter to try to find out if the problem is an overly rich mixture or coming from 'somewhere else'. The Innovate LM2 is decent for a temporary/hand-held tool and there are other options for a permanently installed "always there" gauge. I have an AEM digital in my '69. They aren't all that cheap and they also require welding a fitting into your exhaust for the O2 sensor, but to me it was well worth having the information.

Bear


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## 1967pontiac400 (Dec 10, 2020)

armyadarkness said:


> If it's a rebuilt fuel pump, especially a large chain, non-name one, then I wouldn't assume that it's not your issue. I just had a water pump explode, with less than 50 miles on it, and it took out the original 67 fan with it.
> 
> That being said, the nice thing about cleaning up the PCV system, is that you need it, regardless of whether it's your issue or not.


But how do you test for proper PCV functionality?


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## armyadarkness (Dec 7, 2020)

AZTempest said:


> The return lines came on A/C cars. You can run either or if you have a return line. I had trouble finding a pump a few years back that had the return. I ran the single for a few years then finally put the correct one on when available. All that's needed is to block off the line not used. Of course you lose the function of that line.


And on that note, if you got to Napa and ask for a fuel filter, they'll ask if you have AC. If you say yes, then the fuel filter has two outputs. One to the carb and one to the tank. So, with any fuel pump, you can have a return line by using a splitter.


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## BearGFR (Aug 25, 2008)

1967pontiac400 said:


> But how do you test for proper PCV functionality?


 One way: remove it and shake it. If you hear it rattle, it should be reasonably good. 

A bad PCV >alone< isn't going to put fuel into your oil. The purpose of the PCV is to vent the pressure pulses in your crankcase, created by the "back sides" of your pistons as they cycle. In the old days there was a "road tube" that did that by venting to the atmosphere. A PCV is intended to prevent those crank case gases (and blow-by from piston ring leakage) from going into the atmosphere by routing them back into the intake and into the chambers. 

There's a spring inside that holds the PCV closed until the engine creates enough back-pressure that, when combined with whatever manifold vacuum is present, is enough to overcome the spring and open the valve. At this point the gases coming out of the crank case can vent into the intake tract, get cycled into the engine, burned, and sent out with the exhaust. So, all that valve is >supposed< to see is crank case gas/pressure on one side, manifold vacuum on the other side. Even with it stuck open - all that's going to happen is it's going to make your engine run lean, not rich, because it creates an additional intake air source. If fuel is getting into your oil via a stuck open PCV, then there has to be a leak in your carburetor that's allowing fuel to get into passages where there SHOULD only be manifold vacuum present.


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## 1967pontiac400 (Dec 10, 2020)

This makes sense, thank you! The end carbs have had the base plates replaced, perhaps it is time for the center as well just to rule out the issue mentioned a little while ago, if nothing else.

I'll check PCV for good working condition and probably do the fuel pump to check that off as well. 

Just to be extra safe, we'll also do carb jets since I have no clue what's really in there right now, they may be way too big.


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## BearGFR (Aug 25, 2008)

They may be, but until you measure what you're fuel mixture actually is, you're just guessing. It doesn't take long until you could find you've spent more cash on 'try this and hope' attempts than you would have spent on a decent air/fuel meter, and still not found the problem. 

If you let it sit for, say, a couple days without starting it at all, perchance does all the fuel drain out of one or more float bowls? Are all the levels the same or is one or two of them a lot emptier than the other(s)?


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## 1967pontiac400 (Dec 10, 2020)

I can't say that I've cracked open the carbs after letting her sit, but I can say that it smells in there so I am assuming the bowls are staying full. Starting her up has not been an issue, usually almost immediate. 

I really SHOULD just go full EFI, that eliminates 10000 issues, once dialed in, but what's the fun in that


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## BearGFR (Aug 25, 2008)

1967pontiac400 said:


> I can't say that I've cracked open the carbs after letting her sit, but I can say that it smells in there so I am assuming the bowls are staying full. Starting her up has not been an issue, usually almost immediate.
> 
> I really SHOULD just go full EFI, that eliminates 10000 issues, once dialed in, but what's the fun in that


LOL!!! If you can accurately judge fuel level just by smell without looking, and also be certain that you're smelling the fuel in the carbs and not what's in your oil, then your nose is a heckuva lot more finely tuned than mine is. I'm just trying to suggest things you can do relatively easily that might provide additional information.


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## 1967pontiac400 (Dec 10, 2020)

I don't know about "accurate", lol!

I totally gotcha and appreciate that, lots of guessing when there's no OBD II


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## CDub67 (Jun 20, 2019)

X2 on the Wagner PCV! My newly rebuilt Olds 455 was dripping oil and the exhaust was smelling very strong. It also felt "restrained" when accelerating. I installed the Wagner and every one of those problems disappeared. It runs clean, free, and dripless. It's worth every penny.


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## Lemans guy (Oct 14, 2014)

Racers, Mr Taylor can probably talk about it,...sometimes use vacumn pumps to clear the crankcase,..and it will make a noticeable difference..but that much vacumn pulls out a lot of oil for a street car.

Not a problem for a racer to deal with it.....ME Wagner is one of the best things that you can do for your car...


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## 1968gto421 (Mar 28, 2014)

Lemans guy said:


> If it is the valley pan and the valley pan is original it is baffled. When you buy the Wagner get the Pontiac adapter for the Valley Pan. It will fit in easy then. You can see it on their website. It is an extension to make it work easy.


Here are the adapters, Pontiac at the bottom.





__





Dual Flow PCV Valve – Adaptor Accessories – M/E Wagner Performance Products






mewagner.com


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## 1967pontiac400 (Dec 10, 2020)

How necessary is this on a stock motor?


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## Lemans guy (Oct 14, 2014)

It is a great improvement over the stock PCV system. It’s like how necessary is a V8 engine,...a four or a six will get you there too. Why a four bbl carb when a 2 bbl will work on your V8 as well.

All because the performance is better, same with the ME Wagner. Stock PCV pulls a vacumn maybe 30 percent of the time Wagner 99% of the time....better performance.

So necessary, no most cars don’t have them. But many cars are dripping oil from rear main seals, valve cover gaskets and blow oil out the breathers on heavy acceleration,...so then one might argue they are necessary if you want to go easier on your gaskets and engine internals.

All that blow by and condensation and swirling corrosive vapors are harmful to all engines. Best to get that stuff out. Crankcase ventilation is necessary on all internal combustion engines, and it has nothing to do with emissions rather the life of the engine.

How good one decides to do it is each ones choice...


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## armyadarkness (Dec 7, 2020)

1967pontiac400 said:


> How necessary is this on a stock motor?


Your question is subjective. 

I was having the same issues as you. I had black, smelly oil, after very few miles. It's important to note in this thread, that "gas in the oil" and "the smell of gas in the oil" are not the same thing and probably not caused by the same thing.

In my case, I didn't believe that gas was getting into the oil, but that the combustion process was contaminating it. I was using high-end full synthetic and on a fresh engine, it was black, after a couple hundred miles. I changed it, and it got black again. At the same time, I was leaking oil and blowing out the dipstick, so it was obvious that I had a pressurized crank case. I bought the ME Wagner and it didnt help much, so I continued to investigate. I called ME Wagner and as Lemans Guy mentioned, they were very helpful.

The designer spent a good deal of time with me and he suspected that my valve cover breathers were to blame. So I reworked them a few times, changed the oil and then drove about 200 miles. The car ran great, the oil is clean, THERE ARE NO OIL LEAKS! and I'm thrilled to know that the new valve is performing many benefits behind the scenes, which I don't even see or feel. 

So is it necessary on a stock healthy motor? To a guy who waited his whole life for a 67 GTO and who doesn't have $7000 to keep pulling and building motors, yes it's easily worth it. Even if it doesnt solve your issue, it'll provide so many behind the scenes benefits, such as reduced sludge and corrosion, improved performence and extended engine life


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## 1967pontiac400 (Dec 10, 2020)

Perhaps I have a different issue. My oil has remained clean, no signs over crankcase pressure, simply the smell of gas in the oil, which is even more present with the stink 101 that I run. 

It sounds like the PCV valve is worth it anyway, I just don't this that's my issue here. I have more suspicion around the center carb since I've had 100 issues so far with the tripower.


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## Lemans guy (Oct 14, 2014)

Right, well an overly rich condition can have many causes like we discussed. A stuck open power valve piston, throttle plates somwide open too much fuel, idle mixture screws too rich, floats too high, pressure too much, leaking internal carb bowl gaskets, A poorly set up choke or fast idle screw or arm, keeping the throttle open too far, weak throttle return springs, jets way too big, AFR way too rich.

Also remember that a not too obvious cause for an overly rich condition can be a clogged or too small air filter.....when you have the air choked out the mixture can get too rich fast

Try changing that gas to the highest pump gas that you can find and some octane boosters and see if the gas in oil smell goes away..

Think about getting an AFR meter or a 5 gas analyzer on it and see what that AFR condition is warmed up. That way at least you can have an idea. I have a portable AFR meter that I can stick in the tailpipe and get readings from. ( In my Pontiac I have permanent wide and 02 sensors and meters)

The portable ones work fine at cruise speed they will give you an accurate reading. At idle you will need to improvise a metal pipe extension, I use a piece of metal fuel line about two feet long and stick in on the end and into the tailpipe. That gives the same AFR reading at idle as one near the exhaust manifold because the fresh air near the tailpipe does not contaminate it......but a garage can stick a 5 gas analyzer in there and see where you are.

The AFR readings are just simpler and you can do them yourself.


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