# '67 GTO convertible top switch replacement



## redgoat67 (Sep 23, 2011)

How hard is it to replace my top switch located underneath the top dash pad on my 1967 GTO? I think the switch is the same as on all Tempest models for '66 & '67. Can I get to it from the top? And how do I go about removing the top dash pad? My switch works intermittently and I afraid it may not work sometime when I get caught in a rain shower with the top down. Anybody have any step-by-step instructions? My '67 shop manual has nothing about convertibles at all. Thanks.atriot:


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## Cory (Mar 2, 2014)

Done it, and in retrospect it might have been quicker to just remove the entire dash. Frustrating difficult to reinstall switch with dash in car.

However, what I did was remove the dash pad, and shoved my fat fingers as far as I could in between cluster and dash, I eventually got new switch back in hole with help of a coat hanger, but man was it a pain in @&$!. 

Good luck


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## geeteeohguy (Feb 2, 2008)

I did mine when I had the dash out to replace the lenses and have the clock rebuilt. Not an easy job. Dash pad has a hidden stud to the right of the glove compartment. You may be able to get to it without pulling the glove box. You'll need a deep socket, either 3/8 or7/16, can't remember which. The rest is simply screws on the underside.


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## redgoat67 (Sep 23, 2011)

*Up Date*



geeteeohguy said:


> I did mine when I had the dash out to replace the lenses and have the clock rebuilt. Not an easy job. Dash pad has a hidden stud to the right of the glove compartment. You may be able to get to it without pulling the glove box. You'll need a deep socket, either 3/8 or7/16, can't remember which. The rest is simply screws on the underside.


Thanks, GTO guy.
There were 2 studs behind glove compartment, one on each side. Glove box was removed to make stud nut removal easier. They required a 3/8" deep socket for removal. Five easy screws below instrument cluster were removed and the dash pad was removed. Next, I removed the switch set screw and then the retaining nut for the switch. The switch was then loose in its mounting. After some jostling, the switch was removed from its hole and removed from a large gap on left side of exposed dash. So far so good. New part is delivered tomorrow and I can't wait to get it installed. Biggest foreseeable problem will be getting new part to slide in and drop down into hole. But I am up to the task. I am glad you responded to give me the confidence to tackle this job. 
Thanks again. Oh BTW, did I mention that I am the ORIGINAL owner of this 47-year-old classic muscle car.


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## redgoat67 (Sep 23, 2011)

*Final install update*

Make sure battery is disconnected while making changes. I encountered a problem trying to disconnect old switch from small car harness. The plastic connection was hard to separate primarily because of its location and the fact that the two were stuck together even after moving plastic snap lock connection. I had already planned to just cut black (power) wire and butt connect it to new switch rather than chase it down to fuse block. After an hour of trying to separate the old switch connection, I just decided to cut both old and new wires and butt connect the other two wires as well. Before final install I checked new switch and it worked perfectly. Getting new switch into dash hole was easy but reattaching chrome lever piece and small hold down nut was a challenge. Anyhow, new switch is in and I did it myself--even if it did take the better part of 8 hours.


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## nanagoat (Sep 4, 2011)

is the black wire a ground? If not where should it go?


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## Mill Rat (Sep 29, 2018)

The black wire at the switch goes straight to the battery. The ground connection is made at the pump motor back in the trunk to the back seat brace. With another black wire. Go figure.


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## Mill Rat (Sep 29, 2018)

Bought my '67 convertible with the power top switch dangling elegantly below the dash just above the clutch pedal. (Just one of many electrical crimes in this vehicle.) Could anyone reply with a picture of a correctly-mounted power top switch in its natural habitat?


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## Mill Rat (Sep 29, 2018)

Well. geeteeohguy was kind enough to clarifyu where that switch belongs. It's above and between the two left round pods in the instrument cluster, about a 3/8" hole that's on the underside of the panel plastic molding, about half an inch from the vertical face of the panel. There's a smaller hole to the left of it for the pin on the back of the switch bezel. Now I see why others grouse about installing it there. It's that great GM feeling again!


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