# Convertible Top Bleeding Issue



## chin (Jan 5, 2011)

I've got all my convertible lines hooked up, no leaks, motor pushes fluid fine. I've got the ames bleeder kit and have it hooked up which took a lot of the air bubbles out of the lines but the cylinders are still not traveling in sync/or have the same extension length. One cylinder is new. The line from the pump to bleeder resevoir that comes with the kit is air free full of atf, one line going to the new cylinder-cylinder end, still has bubbles that can't seem to escape no matter how many up-downs I cycle. I'm using atf fluid as well. Does anyone know of a trick to get the remaining bubbles out of the system so that both cylinders push equally? Bleeding procedures? Thanks


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## chin (Jan 5, 2011)

Forgot to add that the car is a 69 Lemans :cool


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## Eric Animal (Oct 28, 2007)

you might have to open a near by fitting to get the air out.....Also consider that one is NEW and one is OLD, it could be a piston strength issue.....Eric


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## geeteeohguy (Feb 2, 2008)

I agree with Eric. Could also be a different diameter inner piston, and giving you a different apply rate. Never had to "bleed" mine....just a few up and down cycles, like a power steering system with the back and forth. Stick with the ATF....the early ones (like mine) used brake fluid. I had to overhaul my pump motor every year due to a frozen impellor. (brake fluid absorbs moisture like crazy) Switched out to ATF 15 years ago, and no problems since!


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## Eric65 (Oct 22, 2004)

I have always heard that if you replace cylinders you should always do both...
I dont know why unless the older cylinder is more worn or the seals arent as good as your new one. 

I would get another new one and new lines

The air could be coming from the seals on the older cylinder

the bleeding usually is very easy with that kit just a hose into the little pale of fluid shoudl do it very quickly.. I think your getting air from the old cylinder


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## chin (Jan 5, 2011)

Eric, I read that also that the other cylinder should be replaced which if it doesn't work cracking a fitting I might have to. It could be on the brink of failure too. The bleeder kit did work pretty good, one trick I found to get additional air out was if you see a bubble coming out of the hose plugged into the resevoir stop and lift the hose and pan up so that it travels out so that it doesn't get sucked back in...not sure if that helped but was worth trying. One other note to anyone doing this if you cycle the pump a ton it gets hot and stops, must have a self resetting breaker. Wait about 10 seconds and it'll start working again. Total fill took almost two quarts.


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## chin (Jan 5, 2011)

Finally figured out what the problem is of why the cylinders wouldn't move in sync. The new cylinder I purchased was defective. I bought another new cylinder and replaced the one that was defective and used the other old cylinder that was working and everything is operating fine. Luckily though the manufacturer is standing by their product and willing to replace the defective cylinder.


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## geeteeohguy (Feb 2, 2008)

Thanks for posting the results!


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## Eric Animal (Oct 28, 2007)

:cheers good job!


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## chin (Jan 5, 2011)

Ok so I got the new cylinder (thanks for the free replacement hydro-e-lectric!), hooked it up, bled the system and all was working well until a fizzing noise and then all of a sudden the top didn't want to go up or down at all. Got out of the interior and walked around to the trunk area and the pump ended up dumping all of the fluid out of the resevoir from the center of the unit into the trunk, what a mess! I replaced the o-ring around the resevoir and motor with one I found in the shop that fit, but it looks like that wasn't good enough. I think the solution to this problem will be all new lines, and a new motor or rebuild kit. Or...just disconnecting the cylinders from the top and lifting it manually


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## lackneramanda (Jul 7, 2011)

Eric65 said:


> I have always heard that if you replace cylinders you should always do both...
> I dont know why unless the older cylinder is more worn or the seals arent as good as your new one.
> 
> I would get another new one and new lines
> ...


Hi all, need some help. The top does not go back up. Nothings happening with the clutch pushed in, brake on, push the button and nothing. I can exit the car, push and hold the exterior door lock button and hear a motor cycling for a few seconds and then nothing. The truck is closed and still nothing. Anyone have a clue?


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## roadrunnerats (Jan 30, 2013)

Hi. I have replaced the cylinders and lines for the 66 Pontiac GTO that I'm working. I'm using regular ATF from O'Rielys. Got the top to move down today but not up. Eric do you remember the part number for that bleeder kit from AMES? I'm also wondering if any of you have used the Convertible Top Guys to rebuild the motor? The motor was acting a little weak. I'm wondering if I should send the motor to be rebuilt or just go ahead and get a new one from AMES.


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