# Fuel lines....sending units...oh my!?!?



## SOCMedic (Dec 31, 2014)

Hello all, I am coming to the end of my restore, I am looking at the last 30 days which is exciting because I am trying to finish before I head to Africa. Now to the question, I ran 3/8" fuel line and a 3/8" sending unit in my new tank, but I was reading another post about vapor lock and now I am wondering if I should have gotten the 5/16" sending line and the 1/4" return line that was original to the car. I think I may have gotten some bad gouge when a mechanic friend of mine told me the return line was pointless. So I am wondering if I should get a different sending unit and run the 5/16" and 1/4" return line. I have invested a lot of time and money into this old girl and I'd rather do it right. I don't mind redoing the fuel lines I just need to know which is right. Thanks so much!

Chris


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## ALKYGTO (Mar 29, 2010)

So you have no return line? I would leave the 3/8" feed line and install a 1/4" return line.


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## geeteeohguy (Feb 2, 2008)

What Alky said. You may need to modify your new sending unit to accomodate the return line elbow. Not a big deal. And then just re-install your original return line in the frame rails,connect the rubber ends, install the steel line at the timing cover, and you'll be set. Any 'mechanic' that says fuel return systems are 'pointless' is suspect, in my professional opinion. Glad you're doing research and learning what's what on these cars. Good luck.


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## Goat Roper (Oct 28, 2014)

_I think I may have gotten some bad gouge when a mechanic friend of mine told me the return line was pointless._

Hmmm...GM engineers or mechanic friend?
The guy I bought my GTO from listened to a mechanic friend and was running 0-20 synthetic oil in the car.
One of the reasons I am having the engine rebuilt.


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## SOCMedic (Dec 31, 2014)

Thanks guys, running 1/4" steel line as I type, trying to get everything ready for the body to be put on next week. I appreciate the quick reply and the help. The scary thing is the mechanic buddy of mine had been rebuilding classic cars for 25 years and has a business in which he gets paid to do so. I figured he might know what he was talking about, but I'll stick with your advice, always better safe than sorry!


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## geeteeohguy (Feb 2, 2008)

Have never heard the term 'bad gouge' before. Bum steer, bad dope, etc., I'm more familiar with. Having said that, you can't believe everything you read on the internet, either. A lot of times, the information is worth what you pay for it: nothing. One thing you can bank on: The engineers always did something for a good reason. The car builders were out to save money, not spend it. They didn't install anything on these cars that they didn't feel was absolutely necessary. In all my years, I've learned that the engineers were pretty much right on. Learned this when racing 'stock' vehicles against 'upgraded' vehicles that were re-engineered by a 17 year old....and handily beating the crap out of the re-engineered vehicles. Also, what you are doing is the right thing: do the research and get a consensus on what the truth is, or correct answer. If 95% of the mystery guys out on the internet say that a fuel return system works, it's probably the truth! It's how I learned about 'zero decking' a block!!! Cheers..........


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