# Any good mild to moderate cam suggesitons for future supercharging?



## blackwidow (Jan 9, 2013)

Okay, so I am thinking about getting a cam for the 6.0, and would like for it to work with a supercharger in the future. From the research I have done, SC's like near-factory LSA, however I would like it to have a little bit of lope / chop to it...

to my knowledge, factory cam specs are as follows: 

Duration at .050" Tappet Lift
Intake 204 Degrees
Exhaust 211 Degrees

Lift with a 1.7 Rocker (Stock LS2) is .525/.525
Intake Centerline 118 Degrees
Exhaust Centerline 114 Degrees
LSA 116 Degrees 

I'm not looking for stupid crazy power numbers. I'm thinking of going somewhere around the 114 LSA range with cam, to get just a little chop, but not too much...plus the car will still have drivability and power will stay more across the RPM range instead of all up top. 

My questions are these: 
are my assumptions / research correct? haha
At what point should I start to consider upgrading my valvetrain / pushrods? Is there a good drop-in cam that will give me some good power now, and compliment a SC in the future? 
Any specific cam suggestions from experienced members?

Thanks guys!

EDIT: My motor has all factory internals.


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## BWinc (Sep 21, 2005)

Torquer V2 from Texas Speed or Comp Cams Streetsweeper from Flowtech Inductions.


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## 06M6BLK (Apr 4, 2012)

How about a factory LS9 cam? 211/230 @ .050in, .558 in .552 ex. 122.5 LSA. Not a huge bump over stock but it will definitly set you up for a blower in the future. A more agressive option would be to find an upgrade cam made for the LS9 engine. You could also call a cam manufacturer, tell them your current set up and future goals and they can recomend a custom grind for your application. Good luck and keep us posted on whatever you go with!


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## blackwidow (Jan 9, 2013)

06M6BLK said:


> How about a factory LS9 cam? 211/230 @ .050in, .558 in .552 ex. 122.5 LSA. Not a huge bump over stock but it will definitly set you up for a blower in the future. A more agressive option would be to find an upgrade cam made for the LS9 engine. You could also call a cam manufacturer, tell them your current set up and future goals and they can recomend a custom grind for your application. Good luck and keep us posted on whatever you go with!


That could be a good option. I actually did your second recommendation a few days ago...gave Comp Cams a call, and the rep recommended me to this cam:

XFI™ XE-R, XER273HR; 224/230 @ .050in, 273 / 279 total; .581 in .588 ex, 114 LSA. The rep said it would be a good all-around cam, and could work with both roots and centrifigural SC's, and would be a good base NA cam with very broad powerband (2000-7000 rpms). This cam I have seen on youtube work with an 850 horse C5 corvette that was procharged....and it sounds very mean, with just enough chop. 

I think i'm gonna give it a try :cool

Anybody out there have any experience with this cam???


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## svede1212 (Nov 1, 2005)

Lower lsa helps torque down low. I have the FTI Streetsweeper HT cam (228/232 .600/.612 111 lsa). It works great on the street and can lug along at 1,200 RPM without any surging and makes big power from 2,500 up to 6,500 RPM. I wouldn't go with too small of a cam as the main factor in drive-ability is in the tune. Getting a cam that works the best for either FI or NA is two different things and to try to get one for both is going to be a compromise on both ends. Get a cam for NA and switch when you go FI or wait until you actually go there. You can sell the first cam. Who knows down the road where suddenly you don't have the cash for FI and are stuck with a blah cam.


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## blackwidow (Jan 9, 2013)

svede1212 said:


> Lower lsa helps torque down low. I have the FTI Streetsweeper HT cam (228/232 .600/.612 111 lsa). It works great on the street and can lug along at 1,200 RPM without any surging and makes big power from 2,500 up to 6,500 RPM. I wouldn't go with too small of a cam as the main factor in drive-ability is in the tune. Getting a cam that works the best for either FI or NA is two different things and to try to get one for both is going to be a compromise on both ends. Get a cam for NA and switch when you go FI or wait until you actually go there. You can sell the first cam. Who knows down the road where suddenly you don't have the cash for FI and are stuck with a blah cam.


That's a good point. Do you know what kind of power / torque number increases you saw that were directly related to the cam?


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## svede1212 (Nov 1, 2005)

I picked up about 75 RWHP from the cam. It would be good to note that the cam was helped by the basics on my LS1 of SSOTRCAI, /cats, LTs, and tune with a 80mm TB but just the cam took me from about 320 RWHP to near 400


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## svede1212 (Nov 1, 2005)

I think everybody should read this that is thinking about just popping on FI. With the GTO it's even more as more of the drive train needs upgrading. In the end it will cost as much or more than the car is worth so anyone attempting it IMHO better have money they can throw away. Just being real.


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## blackwidow (Jan 9, 2013)

svede1212 said:


> I think everybody should read this that is thinking about just popping on FI,. With the GTO it's even more as more of the drive train needs upgrading. In the end it will cost as much or more than the car is worth so anyone attempting it IMHO better have money they can throw away. Just being real.


you make a very valid point... in regards to your previous post, what kind of numbers can you see from your otrcai? Was 75 rwhp including the benefits of your otrcai?


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## svede1212 (Nov 1, 2005)

The previous mods of intake, UD, headers and tune added about 35 RWHP to my base LS1. The cam on top of that added close to another 75 RWHP. I pointed that out because every engine is as weak as its weakest link. If you put in a big cam and the headers don't breathe you won't see all the benefits. The way I built it over many years I think I got the most benefit for each mod and depreciating bang for the buck as I went along. My last two and final mods of 243 heads and a FAST 102 mani/NW 102 TB cost close to $2 grand and netted only 40 RWHP. That is without the cost of tuning. I do all my own tuning so the cost of HP Tuners was absorbed in the beginning as it was my first "mod".

Another thing to consider is that a CAI "adds" HP in part by what it _DOESN'T_ take away during real world driving conditions from heat soak. Dyno runs are made with the hood up and usually a fan blowing into the bay. Even though people typically see roughly 15 RWHP on a dyno going from stock to a SSOTRCAI on the street/track getting cold air has the hidden benefit of seeing full tune and engine potential.


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## blackwidow (Jan 9, 2013)

thanks for the insight svede, much appreciated!


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## SiCk056.0GTO (Apr 18, 2012)

Personally it all depends on how aggressive you want your cam to be I have a buddy with an 06 GTO and has a Z06 Cam Shaft in it also is turbo Charged as far as supercharging goes your gonna need a few more modifications down the road especially a blower etc I'd help ya a little more but I'm all about Turbos man.


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