# Front end done! (99% Poly!)



## LS2 MN6 (Jul 14, 2010)

After 6 days of work, many hours of sweat, and ordering new ball joints on Sunday night my GTO is back together with an all poly bushing front end!

Things I learned while doing this, TAKE OFF THE ROTORS. You don't have to, in theory but it makes life easier. Some PB Blaster, and a few hits of the mallet and I got them off. If you swap out to RoadSafe Ball Joints (as I did) then you actually HAVE to take them off as the Ball Joint backing is longer than the stock one.

Anyway, now I need to get the car aligned. I also swapped out my struts, springs, and rear shocks & springs in the last few weeks. Feels like a new car!

I'm not going to tackle the back end, as I don't want to mess with the cradle after the drama of the front end, so off to the shop for the rear poly.

All this in time to go to the track in a few weeks!


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## GM4life (Mar 18, 2007)

Congrats. The cradle bushings are easy, the most diffcuilty is the rear control arms. You will press those out about the same way as the rear radius rod bushings.


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## LS2 MN6 (Jul 14, 2010)

Thanks! 

Really on the rear control arms?

The Rear Radius rod was the "easy" bushing to get out. Really that one was a joy!

I'm worried in the rear about keeping the cradle aligned, even if you do one side at a time, I know usually people have to ratchet the cradle back to reattach the bolts.

Maybe I'll brave it next spring... I think I'm done for now.

I've got some SERIOUS toe out on both sides, so the car is getting aligned today.


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## GM4life (Mar 18, 2007)

You do one side at a time on the cradle. Even still you may or may not have to pull one side to get it lined back up. Both mine and my friends had to pull the passenger side with a cargo strap. I got lucky with my front end when I did my bushings. I thought my alingment was bad afterwards come to find out it was right on.


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## svede1212 (Nov 1, 2005)

The back isn't that bad at all. Just make sure you do the outside control arm first before you bolt the cradle back up on that side. Heat on the bushing is your friend as they are kind of glued in. Your rear alignment won't be any worse than it was to start with. The subframe bushings (I suggest Energy Suspension ones) have a tighter fit and the bolt will only go in if it's in the right spot.


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## LS2 MN6 (Jul 14, 2010)

I got the Energy Bushings. Just need to install them when I have the mental fortitude to do so.


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## LS2 MN6 (Jul 14, 2010)

Talked to a shop. They want nearly a grand. Looks like in the spring I'm doing this myself.

What do you have to do to the rear control arm bushings to remove them. I have a bushing press, but is that it? I don't want to get half way there and not be able to put the car back up.


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## GM4life (Mar 18, 2007)

You can fly me there for alot cheaper than that and I won't charge ya, just as long you provide beer.

Do what Svede suggested on heating, your press, tools, and something to pull the cradle back in place just in case.


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## svede1212 (Nov 1, 2005)

I took ou the rear control arm bushings with hardware store/home made tools and a propane torch. After I figured out the first one the rest were easy.

Control arm bushing removal - LS1GTO.com Forums

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## LS2 MN6 (Jul 14, 2010)

Yea, I got a tool like that!

I'm just worried about them being sleeved, Svede made it sound like they have plastic sleeves (the glued in comment)? If it's just rubber, then I'm not worried. The front radius rod bushings popped out real easy.


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## svede1212 (Nov 1, 2005)

The inners do have a hard plastic sleeve and there is a black tar-like substance "gluing" it in. A propane torch softens it and they pop out. The outsides of the bushings also have a rubber lip that extends out and I cut off one side to make it easier to push through. If you follow that link you can see that lip and farther down the page (post #13) you can see the inner with the hard white plastic sleeve on it.


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