# Couple drivetrain upgrade Q's



## Ponyboy (Feb 26, 2011)

I'm upgrading my drive-train soon. I've decided on Tick's Stage 2 build T56 as well as their adjustable slave cylinder kit, Monster's stage 3 clutch assembly, and Spohn Performance's solid aluminum drive-shaft.

First question is: Am I missing anything that is essential? (I've done several swaps of the 4L60E's but I've yet to do a T56, so slight bit of inexperience here)

Second: I've talked with a friend with the same drive-shaft. He said it vibrates occasionally,and this is the reason for the two piece stocker. It makes for a more comfortable ride. Is this accurate and is the vibration harmless to the tranny/dif?


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## Falco21 (May 11, 2010)

There is a very noticeable vibration with a 1 piece driveshaft. If it is not needed because of the power increase, stick with the 2 piece. The 2 piece is a lot more comfortable driving because it is able to flex, due to it being a 2 piece shaft. With a 1 piece there is no where it could flex. There is a noticeable vibration at higher speeds and within certain speeds. It has been noted by many owners


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## 87GN06GTO07IRL (Aug 10, 2009)

Falco21 said:


> There is a very noticeable vibration with a 1 piece driveshaft.


If there is a vibration it's from the shaft being out of balance, not being one piece. They have been used and abused for years and stand up to the challenge without vibes.


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## Ponyboy (Feb 26, 2011)

Does the balance issue have to do with the construction of the shaft or is balancing a procedure that needs to be done after install?


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## 06BLACKGTO64 (Oct 30, 2010)

it gets balanced when its manufactured


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## svede1212 (Nov 1, 2005)

The purpose of a two piece is the length of the sections and the weight and diameter affect it's critical top RPM. Two short pieces aren't as fussy. Also the rubber couplers are a weak point but add to noise reduction and help with vibration. A properly built one piece should not vibrate and if it does it is detrimental to the car. I wasn't happy with my one piece and took it out to a driveline shop who balanced it perfectly. Zero vibration. 

I am wondering why you are getting the Tick (which by the way is an adjustable *master* cylinder) and the tranny build? The most essential things you're missing and what I would do way before most of what you've planned, is to upgrade the half shafts with anti-wheel hop ones and get hardened stubs. When either of those break and they will way before the tranny or master, you'll be dead on the side of the road. 

BTW d*o* replace your slave when you do the clutch as especially with a heavier clutch the life of those are shorter.


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## Ponyboy (Feb 26, 2011)

Ah! Thank you for the balancing advice. I'll add that to the check list.

I already have drag bags and BMR's 300mm axles. Is that not sufficient enough? I've broken axles before from wheel hop and I thought that combo would help. If power is a factor, the car is stock until after the drive-train upgrade. Upon completing that, I will be installing a cam with headers and a nitrous kit later to achieve my current goal of around 450 rwhp. Would I need to beef up the rear end even greater for this to be safe? All three power mods wouldn't happen simultaneously. I only currently have the cam (Livernois stage 1). Is the cam alone to much for what I already have?

Also, I thought Tick's adjustable clutch master cylinder (which I actually thought master/slave were interchangeable terms) would compliment the clutch. The premium package I planned on purchasing from monster comes with a slave, but they offer Tick's as an option sold separately. I just thought it might be better since nothing on the site hints at the package's slave being 'tougher', if you will, than OEM.(unless they're completely unrelated ha) I still have yet to call them.


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## svede1212 (Nov 1, 2005)

IMHO the stock tranny and master cylinder will be more than adequate at your power levels. Cars over 500 RWHP work fine with those stock. Spend the money on some 3.91 gears. 

The slaves are pretty much all the same. Get a GTO specific one from Advance Auto or a Camaro one from a lot of places and swap the fitting over from your old one in 3 minutes. 

Did you get the axle stubs with the half shafts? The stubs are the most important part. You break one of those you have a lot bigger problem getting the broken piece out of the pumpkin than swapping out a half shaft. The BMR half shafts are much stronger but they don't have differing left and right diameters which are what help with wheel hop. There are much better options than BMR now. gForce Engineering and The Driveshaft shop have anti-wheel hop axles.

I'd also look at a different cam than the one you have to reach your goals. There's a lot of power to be had in these LS engines but more than peak HP they need torque down low for the relatively heavy GTO unless you're exclusively drag racing. A couple of FlowTech Engineering cams or ones like the V2 or V3 are much better options. If you have a LS2 a little head work and a good cam will get you very close to your goal without the giggle gas or its issues.


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## Ponyboy (Feb 26, 2011)

I come from auto-x and circuit racing so I'm all about sways, coilovers, anti-lift, chassis braces, etc. But this wheel hop thing is brand spankin new to me. I didn't even know what a drag bag was until about a year ago ha.

The build is designed for drag racing. Which is why I'm absorbing this info on wheel hop. I snapped an axle at launch before and I really don't want it to happen again ha. I saw in another recent post you made, Svede, about how the tires are important in defeating wheel hop so I'll be grabbing some radials for the track. No, I didn't upgrade the stubs, but It sounds like they're a must also.

When I purchased the car, used, the entire clutch assembly was destroyed in weeks and the pilot bearing was in about 4 pieces. The disk's edges were chewed almost clean off and the plate's fingers were bent. The slave also blew a seal and had to be replaced. Before replacing it all, I noticed the input shaft wiggled in any direction about a half inch from center. The clutch assembly and slave were completely replaced but I never touched the tranny. Now the clutch (or whatever) is starting to feel like it's about to go again w/ 13k miles on it. (It does get driven around other than the track and even a couple long road trips to car shows yearly)

All that said, I want to upgrade everything and be done w/ the stock setup. My goal of 450 rwhp is for this year specifically. I will be pushing more power eventually and just wanted the drive-train to not be an issue in the future, aside from wear and tear/scheduled maintenance. I've read on several occasions that the stock tranny is rated at 400 hp/trq. Is that incorrect or was the source referring to the A4 and not the M6?

As far as the heads, all I'm familiar with is having them PnP'd. Outside of that I'm clueless. They also would seem to be pushing my budget for the summer where as the nitro is cheaper (and really up in the air still anyways). Everyone I drag with (all GM models) that uses it has never had an issue with it. I have more questions about heads and nitrous, but I'll try to stay on topic for this forum.

Forgot to add, I've never done anything with gears or even researched them so I'll get back to you on that.


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## jpalamar (Jul 22, 2008)

Ponyboy said:


> I come from auto-x and circuit racing so I'm all about sways, coilovers, anti-lift, chassis braces, etc. But this wheel hop thing is brand spankin new to me. I didn't even know what a drag bag was until about a year ago ha.
> 
> *The build is designed for drag racing.* Which is why I'm absorbing this info on wheel hop. I snapped an axle at launch before and I really don't want it to happen again ha. I saw in another recent post you made, Svede, about how the tires are important in defeating wheel hop so I'll be grabbing some radials for the track. No, I didn't upgrade the stubs, but It sounds like they're a must also.
> 
> ...


Thats your first mistake. GTOs are not ment to be all out race cars.


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## svede1212 (Nov 1, 2005)

The T-56 can handle a *lot* more than 400. For drag racing with a stick you really want bias plies with the rears preferably on 15" wheels. They grab a whole lot better than radials and the wider sidewall will absorb the shock of launch a lot better. That saves the drive train. You get those and you'll be amazed at the difference. Just make sure you get them for the fronts too as you shouldn't mix radials and bias. Nitrous isn't cheap to do it right, has issues and will nickle and dime you a tank at a time. NA is there all day all the time.


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