# Best Way to Tackle this Quarterpanel and Roofline



## Wob (Dec 2, 2010)

When I bought the car I noticed two things 

1) it had been hit before
2) it had some amateur body work done

I am trying to figure out the best way to tackle this quarter. I do not want to replace it either. I am working backwards in the dent trying to bring it back to life in my mind before setting out on it. Car is set to get blasted next week so will have a better idea then of overall shape.

Thinking for the door jamb issue, try to get a bottle jack or somethign behind the main dent to push it out. Then same bottle jack try to bring the door jamb to move forward a bit. Hopefully that helps take some of the kink out of the body line up top. Once that is moved out a bit, try to massage the part of the door jamb end on the quarter panel that is folded over on its itself. I feel like I may have make a relief cut and fab a fresh little piece in there. 

Then its on to the overall 1/4. Its hard to tell in the pictures but its pushed in a hair towards the inner fender at that nasty scar. What is the best way to move it out a bit? Maybe a 1/4-1/2 inch? From about mid window to mid trunk it seems to take that dive in so very gradual. Inner fender follow suit. 

After that I need to address the waviness and the big scar. That should just be hammer work hopefully, but its in a semi hard to reach area from behind. Stud welder and a slide hammer the best route then?

Lastly the "scoop where the bodyline meets the roofline and top of the quarterpanel has a number of scars, dips and contours. I am not sure how to really go about this one. I want to build up the body line where the weld bead is large enough so I can grind it down to look close to the rest I think. Then thoughts on the scars and dips in the scoop? Fab a new piece? Its in a tricky spot and is a concave and its pretty uneven.

Bodywork is a new field for me although I think I may have a great time with it this 1/4 is keeping me up at night. So is my denty roof. 

Thanks guys.
Rob


----------



## blackplate65 (May 10, 2011)

i think u should try and see if a local body shop would rough it in for u on a frame machine the rite guy and 2/3 hours u will be lookn prety good it will be money well spent (i think u might want to put a 1/4 on it)


----------



## mrdon50 (Oct 21, 2011)

Probably not what you want to hear, but, I would say you'd be money, time and aggrevation ahead to put a quarter on it. Looks like it took a pretty good hit. It's hard to tell from pics but it looks like pillar is pushed in as well as back and if the quarter is pushed in at the old repair you'd need to cut everything loose to try to push it out anyway. I Think you'd also be looking at more hammer time than you realize trying to straighten the panel and get the body line right. Not saying it can't be fixed, just saying it might be easier to replace the 1/4 and repair the pillar. Just my $.02. I'm sure you'll get some more input from these body gurus on here.


----------



## Instg8ter (Sep 28, 2010)

:agree the lap and corner at the door are very rigid kinked as is and you will have a hell of a time pulling them back into shape even with a relief cut plus you will have a lot of oil canning after bumping that long flat side out. cheaper and quicker to put a new 1/4 on in my opinion.


----------



## OrbitOrange (Jul 5, 2010)

Looks like a quarter would save ALOT of time and money actually.


----------



## Wob (Dec 2, 2010)

Well two parts guys:

1) Even if I were to do a quarter, I still need to fit it which means the door jamb still needs to be addressed the inner fender being pushed back a 1/4 inch still needs to be addressed and...

2) EDIT - ok it turns out #2 is voided the skin does come with the scoop section per OPGI. ****its a 65 so they dont make a full quarter only the skin which to my knowledge ends at the body line (can someone correct me if I am wrong?) which means I stil need to address the scoop scars and dips too. ****

Almost seems like I would be doing the same amount of work once you consider actually doing the 1/4. Does that change anyones opinion? 

If so what would be the best path to correct the 1/4 per above, if not what would be the best path on replacement?

Thanks!
Rob


----------



## 05GTO (Oct 6, 2004)

Rob,

Can you post another picture showing the full quarter damage as well as the door, I would suggest ordering a full quarter skin and cut out only the areas that are damaged on the car and then cut the skin for the areas that need to be replaced. The 65 body lines are the same from the front of the door to the rear bumper. You could use a portion of the skin from behind the rear tire to replace the damaged panel for the door.

How is the rear lower part of the existing quarter?


----------



## PDWEEDY (Feb 27, 2010)

SORRY TO BUTT IN ON THIS DICUSSION , i HAVE QUARTER ISSUES AS WELL AND LOTS OF QUESTIONS , ITS BEEN MONTHS SINCE i HAVE STARTED MY OWN POST , CANT SEEM TO FIGURE OUT HOW , ANY HELP WOULD BE APPRECIATED .


----------



## Wob (Dec 2, 2010)

05GTO said:


> Rob,
> 
> Can you post another picture showing the full quarter damage as well as the door, I would suggest ordering a full quarter skin and cut out only the areas that are damaged on the car and then cut the skin for the areas that need to be replaced. The 65 body lines are the same from the front of the door to the rear bumper. You could use a portion of the skin from behind the rear tire to replace the damaged panel for the door.
> 
> How is the rear lower part of the existing quarter?



I will have to snap one tonight. Its in the garage now and body coming off the frame as we speak so it may have to be at a bit of an angle.

I wanted to do just that if I did go skin - cut and replace as needed. at least I could put the welds where i wanted them etc. 

The rear lower needs a drop down. It had rust I am ssuming and the prior owner cut the bottom of it off and the bottom of the drop down from the trunk. 

Below is where the damage is:

Green is welding scars and dips in the panel. the pink right beside it is waveyness and the other pink near the door is all dents. The door has an impression in it which leads to the quarter. Was struck in the door, object slide down the door into the door jamb, pulled the metal back and then wrinkled the quarter all under the rear window. The welding was from another issue it seems. the door jamb is pulled back a hair because of it. Blue is where the panel has been cut by a prior owner already

If I were to go full quarter it would make sense likely to do the door jamb at least most of it anyway and since the body line is messed up generally from the front of the 1/4 until about the beginning of the trunk that whole section seems like it should be replaced. The section above the rocker is nice. The section below the trunk is nice down till the cut.

OPGI tells me the skin includes the door jamb and the trunk channel and the top end runs flat from the window edge back. The roof sail panel area from the first pics you can see needs a bit of work too. We will see what blasting reveals.


----------



## 05GTO (Oct 6, 2004)

I replaced both of my quarters with skins, if you click on my photos you will find the images on about  page 22, maybe consider using the rear section of your trashed quarter to repair the door and replace the majority of the quarter with the skin. The car should be placed back on the frame with new bushings to do major surgery such as a quarter panel replacement. I would recommend using a flanging tool to flange the body to allow a flush fit with added strengh. The flanging tool also includes a hole punch for the skin's edge so you will be able to plug weld the 2 panels together. I also welded the edge of the skin to the body. Post pictures of your progress.

Flanger/Punch Tool Pneumatic 7/32""

Good luck,


----------



## Wob (Dec 2, 2010)

Ahhh Randy I like that little door trick!

Will post when I dive into it. Car goes to the blasters this weekend.


----------



## mrdon50 (Oct 21, 2011)

Rob, I'd still replace the 1/4. Way over half of your panel has damage and it's already been repaired once before and you need a lower 1/4 patch panel and the the trunk drop down. The door jamb you will have to fix anyway and after you remove the old skin you'll have more room to work on the areas that need attention like the door jamb and the "scoop" and dents on the top of 1/4 and the sailpanel. you should be able to get to that area to hammer and dolly with the skin out of the way. when you cut the old skin away be sure and leave more than enough to fasten the new panel ( you can always trim it back if you need to).Also with old skin gone you can work on the outer wheelhouse to bring it back into alignment with new 1/4. You won't have a lot of welding seams to try to hide and don't have to worry about warpage as much. Replacing the 1/4 IS a pretty big job but would still be easier,faster and cheaper than trying to cut and fit patch panels into an already damaged panel and then trying to get everything smooth enough for paint. You'll still have body work to do on the seams of the new 1/4 but not near as much as cutting and splicing. Good luck.


----------



## Wob (Dec 2, 2010)

Thanks mrdon. I have had people tell me both things. It just sketches me out a little replacing the 1/4 (aside from my desire to save the original metal). It seems more amd more like that is the path I have to take. 

Frame is finally down to, well, the frame. So just some little parts breakdowns of other stuff I want to get blasted and then FINALLY I will have it sent to the media blaster. Then I can see what I am really working with back there too.


----------

