# Steering box flares leak.



## jet460 (Oct 23, 2015)

Friend of mine gave me a freshly rebuilt 3 turn power steering box for my 68 LeMans.
One of the flares for the lines is damaged and leaks.
It's a flare type, not O-ring type.
Is this a part that can be replaced?
If yes, how? And, where would I buy them?







Aren't they pressed in?


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## Jetzster (Jan 18, 2020)

I’m no expert, but looks pressed in to me
Prob be forced to send it in to a steering
box rebuild shop? and then likely they would want to unnecessarily rebuild it again , even if it didn’t need it , before they would work on itI? And I assume a flare reface tool like This would not work?


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## GTOJUNIOR (Aug 7, 2011)

There are many repair post which indicates tightening to factory spec and loosening several times to re-seat the flare.
If that doesn't stop the leak there are copper flare gaskets available that some say worked.


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## O52 (Jan 27, 2019)

Although it doesn't directly address your problem, here is a short description of the check valves under the flare fittings. It does say, do not remove the flare fitting unless you have a replacement

From the Jim Shea Steering Papers;

_*Steering Gear Pressure Port Check Valves *
T_he check valve does cause the power steering pump to work against slight additional backpressure in the system. Additional backpressure does cause additional heat to be generated by the power steering pump, but typically not enough to cause any problems.
There were a series curves with of chatter bumps on the Ride & Handling Road Course at the General Motors Proving Grounds. Every prototype new model GM vehicle was aggressively driven over the bumps to determine if the car (or truck) needed a valve.

_On gears that were manufactured before 1980, the check valve was installed underneath the 45 degree brass seat that seals the pressure hose pipe. You would need to run a short screw or easy out into the brass seat and pull it straight out to get at the spring and plate. *Unless you have a replacement seat you probably should just leave the check valve in place since you will effectively distort and probably destroy the seat when removing it.*_

On gears manufactured 1980 and later (with metric o-ring ports) the check valve was contained in a capsule down inside the pressure port. You will be able to thread a short screw or easy out into the capsule and pull it straight out to remove it as a unit. By the way, you do not have to remove the check valve capsule in order to use the Tom Lee aluminum adapters. The adapter will press into the port above the capsule


I would also check for stripped threads on the port.


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