# The frame is coated with rust stop



## Too Many Projects (Nov 15, 2008)

Well, I finally got back to working on the GTO and the weather has warmed up enough to roll it outside to spray it with Eastwood rust converter. I let it sit in my shop since I blasted it a few weeks back to get a light haze of surface rust for the converter to adhere to. Next up is getting a good coat of urethane primer/sealer on it and then start on the suspension pieces. It doesn't really look any different after the converter dried, so no new pics...


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## Jstreet (Mar 9, 2009)

Just curious why you decided to do it that way and not just etch prime it straight after blasting? You could of had a least few weeks at least to get paint on it being stored indoors. I'd rather start with no rust than converted rust.


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## geeteeohguy (Feb 2, 2008)

Me too. What gives, TMP?


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## Too Many Projects (Nov 15, 2008)

Even after the blasting there are pin sized specks of rust still embedded on the outside and more in the rails where the sand won't get. By letting it haze a little and then spraying the entire frame, inside and out, I am pretty sure I won't have rust growing and bubbling up under the paint in the future.
That's my story and I'm stickin to it........
(hope it works)...


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## Jstreet (Mar 9, 2009)

I understand the inside. As for the outside.....you must have taken it to the ghetto-blaster if there's anything left. We'll chalk it up as being "safe."


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## Too Many Projects (Nov 15, 2008)

Jstreet said:


> you must have taken it to the ghetto-blaster if there's anything left.


No, I did it myself with a pressure pot. If you read other threads where people have frames blasted, they coat them with POR 15. Even my painter does that to be sure any specks of rust left behind can't return. I chose to use the Eastwood product, but it's the same principle. If someone tells you they can remove 100% of rust from your car with sand blasting, they are blowing smoke up your tail pipe. The only way to remove all the rust is with submersion.


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## Jstreet (Mar 9, 2009)

I've had frames blasted by a reputable shop and they never look as good as when I've done them myself. My last blast was a Triumph tr6 and the shop left enough remnants(sp?) that I went back and finished the job. I used etch primer and a good sealer with a urethane top-coat. It's been sitting outside 3 years and still nothing re-appearing. I am in agreement with you on submersion. Dipping is the way to go to kill everything inside and out.


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## Too Many Projects (Nov 15, 2008)

I had an estimate of $175 for a mobile blaster to do the frame in my driveway. He figured it would take a few hours. Since I had the pressure pot, I figured I might as well do it myself. By the time I was to the point it's at, I had 10 hours and 750 pounds of sand. I was so sick of it that I wasn't going to try to get every spec of rust off it. I will be using an etch primer and urethane paint too and I think it will be good. It's not like the car will ever see salt again either.


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## geeteeohguy (Feb 2, 2008)

And you gotta remember, the frames were left bare and rusted from day one. I've never seen an original GTO with a painted frame. It will be fine the way you did it. What the autobody industry uses nowadays for anti-corrosion INSIDE frame rails, etc. is a wax compound that is sprayed/shot inside the rails with a nozzle. It's like cosmoline, and it works well.


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## Too Many Projects (Nov 15, 2008)

geeteeohguy said:


> And you gotta remember, the frames were left bare and rusted from day one. I've never seen an original GTO with a painted frame. It will be fine the way you did it. What the autobody industry uses nowadays for anti-corrosion INSIDE frame rails, etc. is a wax compound that is sprayed/shot inside the rails with a nozzle. It's like cosmoline, and it works well.


There was a very thin coat of black paint in a few places on this frame after I washed the Oklahoma dirt off it. 
I am going to paint the frame a neutral Grey instead of the popular black just cause I like it better and I think it looks more natural. I got a can of the wax from Eastwood for after I paint it, to coat the insides where the paint can't get.


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## Jstreet (Mar 9, 2009)

Too Many Projects said:


> I had an estimate of $175 for a mobile blaster to do the frame in my driveway. He figured it would take a few hours. Since I had the pressure pot, I figured I might as well do it myself. By the time I was to the point it's at, I had 10 hours and 750 pounds of sand. I was so sick of it that I wasn't going to try to get every spec of rust off it. I will be using an etch primer and urethane paint too and I think it will be good. It's not like the car will ever see salt again either.


Sometimes I've found it's better to contract some good help to perform a job you could otherwise do yourself, just for the interest of time. I've sandblasted a frame and all the suspension parts on a previous project. I used a syphon-feed gun and bucket and had to sweep up the media about every 20 minutes. It took a few days at 3-4 hours per day to get it looking good. After that, I had to get paint on it quickly to keep the flash rust from forming. After a few more days of non-stop work, I felt like it was more of a chore than any fun. I hated that. Since then, I've contracted various jobs which would be long/tedious on my end. I have all respect for those who still complete them on their own and I'll probably do it again in the future. But, until I forget the time/labor involved with blasting a frame, I'll contract the work for sure. 

I'm sure your frame will turn out great with your attention to detail.


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