# Breaks Lock up, Any ideas



## keiko (Aug 14, 2006)

1967 Any reason why my brakes will lock up, just took it out after sitting for 10 years ?? Thanks


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## gmjunkie (Jan 1, 2019)

drum or disk? there are several reason why they are locked up. parking brake cable is stuck, therefor engaging the parking brake, it is possible your brake pads have rusted to your rotors. your wheel bearings could be seized. youre going to have to remove all 4 wheels and beat your drums off, or if its a disk, take the whole rotor assembly off and see exactly what is going on.


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## PontiacJim (Dec 29, 2012)

keiko said:


> 1967 Any reason why my brakes will lock up, just took it out after sitting for 10 years ?? Thanks


If it has been sitting for 10 years, I would go through the brakes. DOT3 brake fluid will absorb moisture just from sitting. Rubber hoses can dry rot & crack. Brake shoes can deteriorate. "Things" get stuck from sitting - gummed up or rust.


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## BLK69JUDGE (Jun 10, 2010)

rusty drums or rotors can cause extra friction ....
you dont mention if its front or rear or all four or 1 corner

drums rear disc front ? 4 piston front originals ?

leaking rear wheel cylinders ... after sitting 10 years 

its master cylinder and rear wheel cylinder rebuild time

have you ever had the brakes done ?

how does the pedal feel real touchy ??

power or manual brakes ??

is the brake fluid low ?? 

lot n lots of options

time for tires tooooooooooooo no 10 year old tires on my muscle cars .... nooooooo way 

unless Im stayin under 35 mph ..... . yah right !!!!!!!!


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## keiko (Aug 14, 2006)

PontiacJim said:


> If it has been sitting for 10 years, I would go through the brakes. DOT3 brake fluid will absorb moisture just from sitting. Rubber hoses can dry rot & crack. Brake shoes can deteriorate. "Things" get stuck from sitting - gummed up or rust.


 OK thanks, I pulled the drums last night which was a hell of a job, needed a puller to do it and a sledge! it was quite a mess. Took everything off to replace new. Just hope I can remember how to put it back together.


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## keiko (Aug 14, 2006)

OK thanks, I pulled the drums last night which was a hell of a job, needed a puller to do it and a sledge! it was quite a mess. Took everything off to replace new. Just hope I can remember how to put it back together.


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## keiko (Aug 14, 2006)

Thanks for all that posted, forgot to say it was the rear drums, YOU HAVE NO IDEA what it took to get them off. The only thing left is the wheel cylinder which I have sprayed with fluid hoping I can get the bolts off and line disconnected. having said that would anyone know of some good pictures on how to put it back together. I know I am going to struggle with this when the new parts come next week
Thanks


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## gmjunkie (Jan 1, 2019)

keiko said:


> Thanks for all that posted, forgot to say it was the rear drums, YOU HAVE NO IDEA what it took to get them off. The only thing left is the wheel cylinder which I have sprayed with fluid hoping I can get the bolts off and line disconnected. having said that would anyone know of some good pictures on how to put it back together. I know I am going to struggle with this when the new parts come next week
> Thanks


are you just looking to put the new wheel cylinders in? or did you remove the shoes as well? there are many good videos on you tube which will show you how to put everything back together. Make sure your parking brake is working properly and if you are spraying wd-40 or pb blaster in the brakes REMEMBER TO CLEAN EVERYTHING WITH BRAKE CLEANER BEFORE RE ASSEMBLY... brakes dont work well covered in penetrating fluid


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## keiko (Aug 14, 2006)

gmjunkie said:


> are you just looking to put the new wheel cylinders in? or did you remove the shoes as well? there are many good videos on you tube which will show you how to put everything back together. Make sure your parking brake is working properly and if you are spraying wd-40 or pb blaster in the brakes REMEMBER TO CLEAN EVERYTHING WITH BRAKE CLEANER BEFORE RE ASSEMBLY... brakes dont work well covered in penetrating fluid




Nope I took everything off, going to start from scratch with new stuff. What should I type in to find the right u tube video ?

Thanks , Deano


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## gmjunkie (Jan 1, 2019)

keiko said:


> Nope I took everything off, going to start from scratch with new stuff. What should I type in to find the right u tube video ?
> 
> Thanks , Deano


I just typed in " Drum Brake Replacement" and a ton of videos come up, just look through them until you find one that is closest to yours. They should all be very similar and give you a good idea what to do


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## BLK69JUDGE (Jun 10, 2010)

plus they are a mirror image on the other side

sounds like somebody forgot to take pictures ....

a real Pontiac service manual is always handy too in many ways

some times your best vise grips SUPER tight on the wheel cylinder line nut

helps brake em loose .... rock it back n forth and spray some more on the fitting then use the tubing wrench..

a helpfull hint .... start the fitting in the wheel cylinder BEFORE you mount it on the backing plate then bolt it on

and then snug the line fitting up ... some times they dont like to line up and the freedom of the moving wheel cylinder

gets you the angle you need

big shoe to the front of the car 

make sure the rub pads on the backing plate are nice and flat no grooves to hold the shoe up in its movement

often they need welded and ground flat 

buy quality parts .....

then do the fronts .....................

Scott 206 465 9one 65


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## Lemans guy (Oct 14, 2014)

I would also recommend a new Master cylinder. They are available as rebuilds from your local parts house for little. Newer and custom out there too, for whatever you want to spend.

Also no matter what use complete flush and all new brake fluid. The difference between Dot 3 and 4 is the boiling point, a higher boiling point is safer better when brakes get hot. They are compatible, read the label. valvoline even makes a Dot 3/4 so the you know it can be used together.

Brake fluid after 10 years has absorbed too much water too be safe:nerd::nerd::nerd:


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## Lemans guy (Oct 14, 2014)

JEGS has a rebuilt master cylinder for $27.99......summit has them as well....


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## keiko (Aug 14, 2006)

Hey, thanks for the info. Been very helpful, one thing. I read on an old post someplace else that "The longer shoe attaches to the rear side of the backing plate" wouldn't that mean the that the longer shoe would be in back ????


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## keiko (Aug 14, 2006)

Thanks will get one, cheap investment


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## keiko (Aug 14, 2006)

BLK69JUDGE said:


> plus they are a mirror image on the other side
> 
> sounds like somebody forgot to take pictures ....
> 
> ...


 great info , Thanks


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## Lemans guy (Oct 14, 2014)

Yes that is correct, as the wheel turns forward the longer rear shoe rides up against the stop and has a larger area.

New brake spring hardware kits are very cheap and all the parts store have them as GM rear drum brakes were used on thousands of cars

Also keep any oily hands and oil away from brake fluid or rubber seals, oil will ruin those seals as the brake fluid is very different.

You will get it!! Stay with it


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## Lemans guy (Oct 14, 2014)

Wait I want to double check my memory as bulk judge says longer to front....


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## Lemans guy (Oct 14, 2014)

Blkjudge is right, I am corrected....the front shoe is the larger the short shoe is on the rear...

The rear shoe is shorter because it carries a smaller portion of the braking load.....

Gotta think before I type! Spot on Blkjudge!!


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## Lemans guy (Oct 14, 2014)

The longer shoe is called the primary shoe goes on front and carries the most braking power, the smaller shoe is called the. Secondary shoe and goes on the rear of the wheel.


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## PontiacJim (Dec 29, 2012)

I will also add, because I did not see this, have your brake drums turned. First it will ensure they are perfectly round, and second that they are within spec and not worn out.

My personal opinion & experience here - use an inexpensive brake shoe. Don't go with a lifetime shoe. Why? The lower grade brake lining seems to always be a little softer material and will grab much better, especially with drums. The higher grade/lifetime brake shoes are a much harder material and often listed as "metallic." These do not grab as well in normal driving and need heat, like a really hard stop or heavy application, to work well. They will also eat up your drums a lot quicker than the softer brake shoes.

Check the rubber brake hose that goes from the frame to the rear axle. Look at the top of the rear end cover and you should see it. It will have a brass block that the wheel cylinder brake lines connect to. It is about in the middle of the frame/rear end and easy enough to see.

Also, if the car has been sitting for 10 years, my bet is that your rubber gas line hoses at the fuel tank and carb are not ethanol friendly and will quickly deteriorate, rot, or crack & split which can create a bunch of problems in itself. The needle/seat in the carb may also be of a rubber not compatible with ethanol gas and will also go bad in time. So keep this in mind and on your list of things to replace unless you know they have already been changed out. :thumbsup:


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## GTOJUNIOR (Aug 7, 2011)

Heres a link to the '67 SM Brake section;
http://thefirstgensite.com/library/67service/PO67S5.pdf


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## keiko (Aug 14, 2006)

Thanks for all the help, I finally got the drums off with a puller, it was like a bad dream. The wheel cylinders were like something I have never seen before. Not even rebuildable !! On another note I notice that the 2 hold down springs for the shoes are not the same. One is a little bit longer than the other. Could someone advise which one goes where ??

Thanks for all the help, Deano


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## keiko (Aug 14, 2006)

GTOJUNIOR said:


> Heres a link to the '67 SM Brake section;
> http://thefirstgensite.com/library/67service/PO67S5.pdf


 Thank You


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## keiko (Aug 14, 2006)

Thanks for everyone's help, but after EXTENSIVE RESEARCH the big shoe goes in the REAR


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