# Removing 2k primer



## FlambeauHO (Nov 24, 2011)

As many of you who have been following my thread might remember my car had 2 k primer sprayed over cured epoxy primer. Now saturday it's time to start removing the grey 2 k primer so that we can commence with the body work. Does anybody have any advice for removing 2 k primer quickly? it has cured for several months and my plan is to use lacquer thinner and rags and sand with a dual action sander, any other ideas?


----------



## facn8me (Jul 30, 2011)

So just how far you going? Back to bare metal? I'd block sand it. Scuff the low area's work/fill then start the entire process again and again. As long as it was sealed well to begin with your gonna block off so much material ya might as well use what ya got to get started.


----------



## FlambeauHO (Nov 24, 2011)

I want it back down to the epoxy at least, the 2k primer didn't adhere, my paint guy didn't scuff the cured epoxy. The 2k comes off when you peel tape... I don't want a paint job over that.


----------



## lars (Sep 28, 2004)

2K is catalyzed urethane, so there's not a chance you're taking it off with lacquer thinner...

If you're re-doing all the bodywork anyway, there's nothing wrong with knocking it down with a dry DA: block-sanding it off serves no purpose during the "strip-down" phase, so just load a DA up with some 80-grit and knock it down to metal - it'll come off pretty quickly. You can then re-do the epoxy, do your body work & filling, and then get into blocking and re-shooting the 2K.

I've done a lot of GTOs and steel cars this way, but the last one I did was a '64 Vette. I did the same process on this - just knocked the fill primers and epoxy off with an 80-grit DA. This is tricky on a 'glass car, since the DA will keep sanding after you hit base substrate... but with some control and moderation, it works just fine. Here is the entire car after DA sanding off 7 coats of paint, 2K and epoxy:









Minor filling & smoothing complete and ready for epoxy base - still no serious "block-sanding" done:









Epoxy & 2k shot, and block sanding in process. No more DA from this point on:









...and block sanding, re-shooting, and block sanding, and re-shooting, and... gawd I hate sanding:









You will be rewarded on paint-day - that's me doing final prep and getting psych'ed up to do the final color and clear shot:









Me fogging myself in with clear. Finally!









Yeah, baby:











Lars


----------



## Rukee (Feb 8, 2007)

Gorgeous!!!


----------



## the65gto (Oct 9, 2008)

Unbelievable!!! Makes me want to throw all my tools out into the front yard


----------



## FlambeauHO (Nov 24, 2011)

Thanks Lars, good looking Vette! 
Its just 2k primer I am removing no topcoats. I will hit it with the DA and some 80 grit. Unfortunately there are a lot of tight areas and I don't want a speck of the un-adhered primer left on the car. Going to be a lot of work...


----------



## lars (Sep 28, 2004)

Thanks for the kind words, guys - much appreciated.

Yeah, you're in for a bunch of work, and you're right: You can't leavy any of that 2K on there if you have verified adhesion problems. The 80-grit DA will knock it down pretty quickly, though. The edges of the DA will get into a lot of the creases and crannies, but you're still in for a bit of "finger-sanding" which will do a good job of removing the fingerprints off your fingertips... For finger-sanding the edges and crannies, 150 grit seems to work a little better so it doesn't feel like you're dragging gravel across the surface. That 2K dust will completely trash your garage - better get some cheap dust masks to wear duing the process.. Good luck! :cheers

Lars


----------



## facn8me (Jul 30, 2011)

now is not a good time to not like sanding. You will be sanding those hard to reach places until you know them intimately.


----------



## BearGFR (Aug 25, 2008)

FlambeauHO said:


> Thanks Lars, good looking Vette!
> Its just 2k primer I am removing no topcoats. I will hit it with the DA and some 80 grit. Unfortunately there are a lot of tight areas and I don't want a speck of the un-adhered primer left on the car. Going to be a lot of work...


Yep, it is and there's no way around it unfortunately. Use a DA to get most of it, then do the tight spots by hand. Just get your mind comfortable with what you're facing and then dive in. It's going to take some time. Don't let yourself get frustrated - when you get tired of messing with it, walk away and do something else. You'll get there.

Bear


----------



## FlambeauHO (Nov 24, 2011)

Thanks all, three of us got the car done in 5 hours. Used 80 grit with DA, palm sander and a braided wire wheel. Down to bare metal and epoxy over 99% of the car.


----------

