# my 67 lemans custom resto



## bobby326 (Dec 13, 2009)

here are a few pics of my 67 resto. i boxed out the frame, hit the welds with some seam sealer, primed and painted it with a base black and clear. the ball is rollin


----------



## Instg8ter (Sep 28, 2010)

lookin good Bobby, i cringe every time i see your avatar. did that to my 69' firebird, but you should have seen the cutlass's rear hatch, can you say "notchback" put a perfect beak shaped V in the rear end.:cheers


----------



## Eric Animal (Oct 28, 2007)

Lookin good Bobby! We are gonna set my engine block, heads, headers(ha ha), and tranny case into the chassis today....gotta check the fit.....then off to powder coat!!!! INSTG8R- I saw Bobby's car "in person" after he "dented" it !!!!, What a shame.....


----------



## Instg8ter (Sep 28, 2010)

Post some pic eric....:cheers, off to block sand...AGAIN!!!! at least our cars have a great crumple zone, i thought i had waves in my hood


----------



## MeatShield72 (Jun 22, 2011)

How is this project coming along?


----------



## Josh.AZ.GTO (Jul 11, 2009)

Looking good!!!!


----------



## bobby326 (Dec 13, 2009)

I don't know if I posted pics of the engine and tranny in the frame. If I did sorry for the repost. Engine 400 with Holley dp edelbrock perf intake, scorpion 1.6 roll or rockers, comp streamed energy cam, forged pistons, edelbrock 72 cc heads and million pan. Tranny is monster trans 700r4. Chevy 12 bolt Detroit posi 373 gears, c-clip eliminator clip.


----------



## bobby326 (Dec 13, 2009)

here is the body with a coat of bondo to try and get it as straight as possible then two caots of rost defender and a coat of final primer. should have color on it with in a month or two.. hopefully


----------



## Eric Animal (Oct 28, 2007)

Looks Great Bobby...you will LOVE the 3.73 rear with the OD tranny....I am running the same combo, except a 4L80e. :cheers


----------



## bobby326 (Dec 13, 2009)

Yesterday I I under coated the underneath of the car nd the entire inside from fir wall to tail panel. I used raptor Berliner and it came out really nice. Today I painted the fie wall so I can drop the body on the frame within the next few days then I can tart the electrical and pluming while I wait for my buddy to start final sanding. The ball is tarting to roll. :willy:


----------



## bobby326 (Dec 13, 2009)

Here is the fie wall painted. I think the color is going to b really nice on the car


----------



## Instg8ter (Sep 28, 2010)

looking good Bobby, love those shark gills in the 67's


----------



## bobby326 (Dec 13, 2009)

So yesterday i decided to install my dougs header on the motor before i drop the body on the frame. The driver side went on fairly easy but the pass side gave me a hick up. It looked like it was hitting the frame slightly so i sliced off a small hump on top of the cross member. Second attempt still wasnt fittinguntill i took a closer look and realized it was hitting the motor mount not the frame. Sliced off the edges of the mount and walla fits like a glove. Stupid me i cut the frame for no reason. It was the size of a quarter and you wont se it anyway. So i got both header in and bolts snugged down thinking in done untill i attempt to put the motor mount bolts back in cause i lifted the motor for more room and realize i have to unbolt the header to put the bolts back in. So unbolt the headers slide in the mount bolts and put headers back on. Its always something that happens and its ussually my fault. After that was done my buddy wet sanded and polished the fire wall so i can marry the body and frame tonight. Fire wall came out beautifull. Very very happy with the color. Tonight after body is on ill start installing fuel systeme and decide were to run my lines and stuff.


----------



## ppurfield001 (Jan 21, 2008)

Looks like it's getting closer to being finished. Good for you..........Looks nice..........Keep up the good work.


----------



## bobby326 (Dec 13, 2009)

Well i have some bad news to share. I was bolting the body to the frame tonight. I got all the bolts threaded so i was lifting the car to tighten all the bolts easyer and i must not of had it sitting on the lift properly and it fell off the lift and landed on it pass side taking out he pass quarter. No i didnot have insurance on it yet. I was going to do it right after joint it together. So now i need a pass side quarter for a lemans if anyone knows of one hiding some where. Ther is one on ebay in t. But the guy said local pick up only so hopefully he will help me out. I also need a pass side a piller cover if anyone has one. Im going to cry myself to sleep. Keep you guys posted.


----------



## bobby326 (Dec 13, 2009)

I didnt like that side anyway


----------



## gjones (Oct 8, 2012)

*disaster*

My heart skipped a couple of beats when I saw that photo! My condolences. How were you ever able to right it back up between the posts?


----------



## bobby326 (Dec 13, 2009)

We onbted one post and four of us pushed it back righ side up. Hopefully ill have it fixed in two to three weeks and it will b like it never happened.


----------



## GhostTown (Jan 25, 2011)

I about threw up on my keyboard.

My jaw is still hanging open.

Thank everything in the world you or no one else was hurt.


----------



## ALKYGTO (Mar 29, 2010)

Just WOW :willy:.

Soo glad no one was hurt there. I can't imagine the thoughts going through your head when that happened. Good luck with getting your project back on track. We've all had bad luck, I had a project car burn to the ground 3 months after completing it, at least yours in not a total loss.

Soooo....new avatar pic?


----------



## bobby326 (Dec 13, 2009)

So yesterday i went to look at a quarter that a friend of a friend had packed in the back of storage. Its not the best piece but i cant expect much from a 45 year old quarter. It need some love and tlc but it my only option. It better than waiting around for who knows how long for anothe not knowing the condition and paying almost double to get it shiped to me so im just gona use this one. Its a lemans quarter from a convertable so ill have to cut it on the body line to the trunk area and it should b fine. Looks like it realy only needs a lower quarter patch but will find out when i strip it. Other than that just alot of dings and dents but thats why the make body hammers and that great stuff called bondo. Hopefully i can get it good enough were i do t need more than an 1/8 inch of filler. Wish me luck


----------



## joesweeting (May 8, 2011)

That sucks

Sent from my ADR6425LVW using AutoGuide.Com Free App


----------



## Eric Animal (Oct 28, 2007)

GOOD LUCK Bobby......I've been asking around, but no luck....quarters are hard to find...I would love to find 2 NOS ones.....I'd prolly build another car around them!!! Eric P.S. This Sunday morning....there will be a bunch of cars at the Bob's/ West Marine Shopping Center on Sunrise HWY in West Islip....I'm gonna try to go. Early in the morning....you should come. :cheers


----------



## bobby326 (Dec 13, 2009)

So i got the quarter redy to go. Cut out the old and pulled and straightend what had to be fixed and tacked in the new/old quarter. Gona finish welding it in tomorrow. Still have to cut and weld in a lower patch piece cause the bottom few inches is fusted out. So far so good


----------



## bobby326 (Dec 13, 2009)

New piece tacked in


----------



## Eric Animal (Oct 28, 2007)

Lookin' good Bobby!arty:


----------



## mrbill (Jan 5, 2013)

Your car looks great but your attitude stands out even better! Coming along at a very good pace too. Go Bobby Go!


----------



## bobby326 (Dec 13, 2009)

Thanks mrbill. Im trying not to show the little three year old boy inside me criying and taking a temper tantrum:willy:. Started to weld in the lower quarter section today and ran out of gas and welding supply place is closed for the holiday. Have to wait till tomorrow. Want it done as fast as possible so it will b like it never happened. Out of site out of mind. Thanks for the compliment.


----------



## bobby326 (Dec 13, 2009)

Everything welded in and started the body work on it. And when i say started the body work i mean ill give it a first coat and rough it in and have my buddys finish. Im by no means a body man. Think This quarter will have less bond on it than the origanal quarter maybe a 1/16 -1/8 after primer. Only spot were it needed more bondo was were the quarter meets the trunk. Had a little dip in it about 6 inches long.


----------



## bobby326 (Dec 13, 2009)

Painted the dash and the rear quarter window sills last night. Will start wiring and installing the dash on mon


----------



## bobby326 (Dec 13, 2009)

Painted and installed booster and master on firewall and made I block off plater for wiper motor. Don't plan on driving in the rain anyway. Sorry my comp still won't let me upload more than one pic at a time


----------



## Instg8ter (Sep 28, 2010)

Was in a bit of a rush getting my car on the road to my first show a mile and a half from the house so i just popped the wipers on (did not clock them). We left the second clouds appeared, got caught in a flash storm half way home, zero visibility, daughter in the car, hit the wipers and they go halfway up then down and wedge against the cowl panel. Lucky i did not end up in the ditch. Wipers are a cheap safety measure, you should know better than most that S*#T happens. They are also there in case say someone drops a liquid load in front of you and your visibility is obscured, just my $.02. And i believe in most states they would be required to be operable?


----------



## gjones (Oct 8, 2012)

^^^^^ If he intends to have it inspected in any State of the Union, they need to operate...


----------



## bobby326 (Dec 13, 2009)

Instg8ter i understand what your saying. Rainx Works really good and i have a few friends that own inspection station so getting it to pass without the wipers is not a problem. Im still undecided what i want to do.


----------



## bobby326 (Dec 13, 2009)

Finished the dash today. I put the clock all the way to the left so I can have tach on the right. Had to trim the back of the gauges to get it all to line up. Gonna start the wiring tomorrow. Using American auto wire. So far it seems like a really good kit. They give you everything you need. New wiper switch and ignition with key cylinder and keys. Hopefully I can get most of it done tomorrow


----------



## Eric Animal (Oct 28, 2007)

Lookin' great Bobby!arty: Eric


----------



## bobby326 (Dec 13, 2009)

Got the vintage air installed and the dash with steering colum. Still have to finish up the wiring


----------



## bobby326 (Dec 13, 2009)

Later I would like to install a wood wheel


----------



## bobby326 (Dec 13, 2009)

I mounted and wired my battery in the trunk. Ran o/gauge wire from the starter to the back of the car to a battery shut off switch which I built a box for, to a 250 amp breaker, to the terminal. Negative terminal to the frame and to the body


----------



## bobby326 (Dec 13, 2009)

Another pic


----------



## ALKYGTO (Mar 29, 2010)

Looking Good Bobby! Looks like a first class job on everything you've done. Nice to see you rebounding from your "accidents". :cheers


----------



## bobby326 (Dec 13, 2009)

Thanks alky. Its nice to start to put it back together again. Hopefully it will get painted within a month or so. Dont want to start putting to much on the car cause the sanding dust gets everywhere.


----------



## Eric Animal (Oct 28, 2007)

Bobby, What did you use to coat the inside of the trunk? Eric.....PS, The car looks great!


----------



## Josh.AZ.GTO (Jul 11, 2009)

bobby326 said:


> Got the vintage air installed and the dash with steering colum. Still have to finish up the wiring


How do you like the Vintage Air systems? Have you used them before? I really want to use one but they do not make a direct fit for the 1970 GTO yet. I'm waiting to see if anyone has converted the Chevelle kit to work in a Pontiac.


----------



## BearGFR (Aug 25, 2008)

Hey Josh, I ran into that same issue. I spoke with Vintage Air and they left me with the impression that they weren't very interested in working with me. I found another vendor, Classic Auto Air in Grapevine Texas who treated me well and were willing to help me get something working. I've got it all working, with the factory controls operating everything (as much as possible) like the original factory a/c system.

Here's their web site:
Classic Auto Air - Air Conditioning & Heating for 70’s & Older Cars & Trucks.

What they did for me was to start with their Chevelle kit, replace the condenser with a generic universal fit one, provide me with a universal "cut to fit" hose kit, plus compressor, heater valve, and compressor brackets for Pontiac.

That was my starting point. I had modify things quite a bit from there in order to adapt the controls, mostly. The kit was designed for only 3 blower speeds (Pontiac had 4) and to control the on/off function from the same switch that operates the blower. (Pontiac controlled off/on separately - it was on the heat/a-c/defrost mode slider). Also the sliders on Pontiac worked in a reverse direction than on Chevelle. I did however get it all working - as much as possible: 4-blower speeds, off/on via the slider, sliders working in the correct direction. What I mean by "as much as possible" is that one thing I didn't realize is that with all these aftermarket a/c kits, there's no such thing as pulling in outside air in any of the modes: heat, a/c, defrost -- and there is no 'vent' function. Regardless of mode, these units "process" inside cabin air - all the time.
Had I known that going in, I might have thought harder about rejuvenating my factory a/c system.
Another area where I modified it was on the compressor mounting bracket. The bracket was designed to position the compressor so that it could be "added to" either the p/s pump belt path or the alternator belt path and driven using a looooong belt. Well, I didn't like that and thought it would look stupid, and since my car was a factory a/c car I had the 3rd crank pulley for the compressor, so I modified the bracket to line the compressor up with that. I had to add an idler pulley to that belt because of the angle and amount of available travel on the tension adjustment. If I could get the belt on, I couldn't tighten it enough -- and if I used a belt that I could get tight, it was an ordeal to install or remove it. Adding an idler solved those problems.

Still though, the new system works fairly well. It doesn't get meat-locker cold like my old R12 factory system could, but it works well enough to keep you comfortable on a hot Texas day in a black car --- and that's saying something.

Bear


----------



## bobby326 (Dec 13, 2009)

Eric i used raptor bedliner and thined it out alittle with thinner so it wouldnt come out so rough. Ha i found o redering of your project. Haha


----------



## Eric Animal (Oct 28, 2007)

That trunk looks great....and thanks for the cool Pic!!:cheers E


----------



## Josh.AZ.GTO (Jul 11, 2009)

BearGFR said:


> Hey Josh, I ran into that same issue. I spoke with Vintage Air and they left me with the impression that they weren't very interested in working with me. I found another vendor, Classic Auto Air in Grapevine Texas who treated me well and were willing to help me get something working. I've got it all working, with the factory controls operating everything (as much as possible) like the original factory a/c system.
> 
> Here's their web site:
> Classic Auto Air - Air Conditioning & Heating for 70’s & Older Cars & Trucks.
> ...


Thanks Bear. I'll check out their webstie. I have some time to figure this out and maybe by the time I'm to this point there will be a direct fit kit. Being in Arizona, A/C can be pretty important item to possess (you being in TX I'm sure you know why). My car didn't come with air so I'm on the fence of deciding if I want to add air or keep it original. I have been driving around in AZ for over a year now in my 84 Scottsdale with no A/C and I can manage it but the girl absolutely hates it.


----------



## Instg8ter (Sep 28, 2010)

used the bedliner on my trunk then sprayed over with the correct splatter paint...Looking good Bobby!!


----------



## bobby326 (Dec 13, 2009)

It gets hot here in ny in the summer. I cant imagine how hot it is down in arizona and texas. A/c would be my first priority.


----------



## Rukee (Feb 8, 2007)

That doesn't seem like a bad price for the complete kit. Been thinking about getting one for mine as we do a lot of summer cruzin. Would really love to have it, but hate the looks of it under the hood.


----------



## GS-XNR (Mar 12, 2013)

*Switches*

Are the switches in the pic from Autowire? If so their harness is a better deal than I thought.
Harvey


bobby326 said:


> Finished the dash today. I put the clock all the way to the left so I can have tach on the right. Had to trim the back of the gauges to get it all to line up. Gonna start the wiring tomorrow. Using American auto wire. So far it seems like a really good kit. They give you everything you need. New wiper switch and ignition with key cylinder and keys. Hopefully I can get most of it done tomorrow


----------



## BearGFR (Aug 25, 2008)

The kit I used was basically this one:
1968 Chevelle El Camino Air Conditioning System | 68 Chevy Chevelle El Camino AC

With the aforementioned custom changes they made for me (different compressor bracket, "universal" condenser and mounting, "universal" custom cut-to-fit hose kit [once layed everything out and measured it, I took it back to them and they crimped on the hose ends for free]).

Let's see if I have a few installation pictures from when I put mine in ...


























How I connected the "mode control" slider cable to my factory a/c controls. (The factory unit used a vacuum selector switch, that you can see at the "top" of the next photo, for mode control)

















The temperature slider connection was a direct replacement









I had to modify their wiring harness quite a bit in order to move the on/off control to the factory switch, and also to get a 4th blower speed (theirs came with only 3 speeds). I used parts from their harness and some of the connectors from the original factory harness. Those two big, high wattage resistors are the trick I used to get the 4th speed. I now have a 4th "low" speed that's lower than their original "low" speed. 
















These resistors soak up some of the power going to their original "low".

















...continued in next post due to too many images....


----------



## BearGFR (Aug 25, 2008)

...continued from previous post...

I split the on/off function away from their fan switch connector and routed it to the factory on/off switch.










Here's how it looks all connected. The red wire to the left is power input. (Ignore the bell-crank you see on the mode control slider. That was an early "idea" that didn't work out. That slider is actually connected the way you saw in the previous photos about it.) I used all the original factory control switches, none of the ones from the kit.









I also had to split and modify the original defroster duct because it interfered with the new unit. I hated to do this, but before I started I found and bought another original factory defroster duct so "just in case" I ever decide that I want to go back to factory stock on everything, I can.

























I made a mount for the heater valve

































Other things I did that for some reason, I didn't take photos of:
* Made a sheet metal round to regtangular adapter to connect one of the round air hoses to the back of the upper middle a/c dash vent.
* Made a similar adapter for one of the side a/c vents (I forget which side)
* Made a bracket so that I could connect the mode control slider to the switch on the under dash unit so that it pulled from the "other" direction (because the slider directions on Chevelle are reversed from what they are on Pontiac. This is what I'd originally tried to do with that bell-crank in the other photos, but that didn't work out because it flexed too much and also didn't move the control switch on the unit far enough.)

I also don't have any good photos that show the changes I made to the compressor mount bracketry. I didn't modify the bracket itself, I just used various spacers to move the compressor rearward in order to line it up with the factory a/c compressor drive pulley.

Hope this is helpful.

Bear

p.s. After running the car for awhile I added an idler pulley for an early 90's Mustang to the belt. I found that because of the angles between the compressor and the crank, the tension adjustment was 'funky'. If I used a belt whose length allowed me to get it tight, then I couldn't loosen it enough to be able to remove the belt without having to "work" it off by walking it over the pulleys while bumping the engine with the starter or turning it with a wrench. If I used a belt that I could install easily, then I couldn't get it tight enough. Adding the idler pulley was the solution.


----------



## bobby326 (Dec 13, 2009)

Ha gentlemen. It's been a while since I posted something but that's cause nothing else has really happened. Last June I bought a new house so that was a busy month but my buddy hasent touched my car in over a year. Just sitting in my garage. But last week I brought it back to his shop so hopefully this time it will get painted. I decided to change my front grills for a different look. I took the old ones apart and ordered a new mesh sheet from the internet to make a set of grills without the hole for the parking lights. I saw a pic of a lemans with this set up and looked pretty good. Little different. I can always put stock one back in if I don't like it. Here's a pic. Hopefully I will post updates soon


----------



## bobby326 (Dec 13, 2009)

I was finally able to get my car back to my buddys shop. Hopefully this time it will get painted by christmas. I bought an aftermarket hood from aimes a few years ago. I finally took it out of the box a few days ago and realized it needed alot more body work than i hoped for plus i needed to buy an aftermarket scoop to fit the hood. So new hood $400 and scoop $100. This weekend i was at englishtown swap meet and found a beautifull lemans hood that i got for only $20. I couldnt believe it. This thing was in mint condition. So instead of spending $500 im going cut out the scoop fron a crapy gto hood i have and graft it in the lemans hood. So lemans hood $20, gto scoop free and origanal scoop insert free.


----------



## bobby326 (Dec 13, 2009)

Lemans hood


----------



## bobby326 (Dec 13, 2009)

Scoop welded in


----------



## bobby326 (Dec 13, 2009)

All done. Still needs little bondo work


----------



## bobby326 (Dec 13, 2009)

So after all theres years of welding sanding and fixing my f-ups theres finasly some paint on her.


----------



## curtdan62 (Oct 27, 2010)

What a great color.. what exactly is it called..


----------



## bobby326 (Dec 13, 2009)

It mayan bronze metallic. It's from a late model Acura TL. Now I have the car back in my garage so I can start finishing it. That means the 65 tempest has to go in the driveway. Three cars and a two car garage isn't working. I'm hoping to have the car done by end of June.


----------



## bobby326 (Dec 13, 2009)

So after waiting weeks for people to call back about doing my headliner i got tired of waiting and did it myself yesterday. Wasnt as bad as i thought. It came out alot better than i was expecting. I used 3M srpay adheasive and alot of spring clips. Took about 3 hours. Also did the sound deadning on the floors and doors. Some reason pics are not working for me


----------



## ALKYGTO (Mar 29, 2010)

Love the color of the car Bobby!

And good for you putting in the headliner yourself. A lot of pride being able to say _*you*_ did it. :thumbsup:

Everyone contemplating a resto should read this thread to see how far you have come sir! I thought you were done when she fell off the lift, that was tragic :eek2: and so glad you came back from that!


----------



## bobby326 (Dec 13, 2009)

Thank you Alky. This morning before work i got a few littl thing done. Finished up fuel lines to carb and installed braided tranny dip stick. Started on making my own package tray instead of useing the repro cardboard ones. Im useing 3 layers of masonite board, cut out the wholes for the speakers and ill wrap it in black vinyl. Hopefully ill get the pics sorted out soon. For some reason they wont upload from my ipad.


----------



## bobby326 (Dec 13, 2009)

I don't want to use the stock rubber radiator hose so I'm making a pipe to reroute the upper pipe so it doesn't cover the driver side valve cover. I think it will look a lot better and be more out of the way.


----------



## bobby326 (Dec 13, 2009)

This is a pic of the rear package tray I made. Sorry for some reason I can only download one pic at a time


----------

