# What Oil and Filter for my 455?



## BatmanGTO (Jun 18, 2011)

Hi,
Tried using the search but it seems to find everything but what I am looking for.

Need to know how many quarts and what filter I need for my 455. Not sure what car it came from, but was made in 1974.

I found allot of people saying 4+1 in filter and then also allot saying 5+1 in filter.

Thanks


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## geeteeohguy (Feb 2, 2008)

What oil: anything with ZDDP in it, or be sure to add it. Currently I'm running diesel-spec Rotella T or Delo 15-40, but I prefer 10w-30. Next change, I'll give Brad Penn oil a shot. I always use WIX filters. My 389 takes 6 quarts, my 400 ('67) takes 6+ quarts, and some later engines take only 5. Check the dipstick. You can look up the WIX number on-line. (I'm not crawling under my cars tonight!) Good luck.


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## BatmanGTO (Jun 18, 2011)

went to 3 places and all act like I'm stupid for asking what oil has zddp. Nobody ever heard of it. So I read all the labels and found only valvoline racing oil has it. I have no napa within 40 miles of me, so all I have are stp, bosch, and fram for filters and the fram isn't even their x6 version.

So can I use any oil made for a deisel engine? Po said he used castrol 20w-50, but it don't say zddp on it.

So I didn't buy anything. Might just get that valvoline. But what filter? No delcos or Mobil 1 for this engine?


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## BatmanGTO (Jun 18, 2011)

lol, new problem, where in the heck to I put the oil in? Can't find a funnel tiny enough to fit the dip stick hole. I see no other place to put the oil.

Is it common for these old motors to use oil? It isn't leaking and don't smell like oil, but is using it.


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## geeteeohguy (Feb 2, 2008)

The standard place to install oil is the oil filler cap on the driver's side valve cover. The manual says that the use of 1 quart per 750 miles is acceptable. Thankfully, mine don't use any (now that the rear main seal has been replaced!). Yes, you can run diesel spec oil in your engine. I've been doing it for years. The thing is, even the diesel oil is getting rid of ZDDP due to emissions requirements on diesel rigs. You can get ZDDP on line. STP is not the same thing. Good luck.


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## BatmanGTO (Jun 18, 2011)

I can get this at advanced auto...same stuff? if so, do I need to put in 1 less quart of oil since this is 1 quart?

Rislone Oil Supplement with Zinc/ZDDP Treatment

If so, what oil would you recommend I buy to use with it? Prefferably something I can buy at autozone or advanced.

Or would you just use the Castrol diesel spec oil?

Thanks for your help


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## BatmanGTO (Jun 18, 2011)

Which filter would you used when the choice is stp, bosch, and fram?

Is there any downside to the valvoline racing oil? Seems I read somewhere is was missing something since mose race car don't keep the oil in them that long, but can't find that post.


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## Rukee (Feb 8, 2007)

I've been using the vavoline racing 20w-50 for years and years, no issues. Which ever filter you want, they should all be comparable.


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## GTO JUDGE (May 14, 2005)

BatmanGTO said:


> lol, new problem, where in the heck to I put the oil in? Can't find a funnel tiny enough to fit the dip stick hole. I see no other place to put the oil.
> 
> Is it common for these old motors to use oil? It isn't leaking and don't smell like oil, but is using it.


Your valve cover should have an oil filer cap on the driver side and on passenger side a breather hole. Many have a rubber cap on there instead of venting it. There should be a vent tube installed. I pointed this out to a guy with a '68 as his was capped and he was having some issues once he put a breather cap on it the problem subsided. If your vale covers have no means of adding oi and a breather I'd suggest installing correct ones.

I need to add a quart every 2K miles or so.


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## peahrens (Jun 7, 2010)

My thoughts on oil from another thread on synthetics:

There's lots of websites that cover conventional / synthetic pros & cons. I found Joe Gibbs site pretty useful. They sell some; e.g., the HR (hot rod) oils for (non-cat converter) high performance street cars in both varieties so they offer some good insights on pluses and minuses of each type. 

Joe Gibbs Driven - Racing Oil and High Performance Products

A search on the GTO Forum site will also add insight. There are reasons not to use syn that some cite; e.g., possible incompatibility of the gasket sealants used. I also seem to remember reading years ago about issues with some types of rear main oil seals when changing from conventional to synthetic and/or back again because seals swelled and/or shrank, etc. I think you'll find this addressed on some sites Q&A's like maybe Mobil-1. I've had multiple rear main seal types...including the post-asbestos rope type replacement around 1992 that started leaking pretty good (on conventional oil) a few years ago...the cause for a rear main replacement last year with the newer viton type. I don't know if viton is especially good for synthetics, but I'm using synthetic, probably without the degree of expertise I should have to make the best decision. And I don't know if it's as big an issue potentially on the front seal. 

As you'll see elsewhere...the zinc level is critical if you've got flat tappet cam / lifters setup, maybe the most important issue. High (enough) zinc synthetics are available in limited oil weights; e.g. Mobil-1 has a 15w-50 that is higher weight than I wanted. So I went with Joe Gibbs, who had the 10w-30 I wanted with enough zinc. Another option for me would be 10w-30 Mobil-1 and add ZDDP-Plus (that's what I do for my boat motor). 

My motor only had about 300 miles on a partial rebuild, so my case does not prove synthetic won't cause me a problem. Update...now at 8 months and more miles...still ok.


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## jetstang (Nov 5, 2008)

Batman, you can use break in lube with every oil change and get the ZDDP you need. Diesel oil is good, it is hardier than conventional oil I assume. It's not for use with a cat if that says anything, I use it. 
I use whatever filter is on sale, haven't had an issue. If you do religious oil changes, there shouldn't be any build up.
Racing oil doesn't have detergent in it, so same as above, do oil changes on time.
I use synthetic oil in my Vette, semi synth in the lincoln. Everything else gets oil, whatever oil, as they dont' get the miles or I dont' care about them-work vehicles.
Oil companies spend millions on advertising, but as long as it's API rated, it's fine for normal applications, HP apps are different.


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## geeteeohguy (Feb 2, 2008)

pearens, rest easy. Synthetic oil will cause you no problems in your older Pontiac. As long as you have ZDDP in it, you'll be just fine. I run full syn in my 4x4 due to very remote areas travelled and grueling conditions that I may encounter. If I have to drive to safety with a blown water pump and an overheated engine, synthetic oil will help, as it solidifies at about twice the temp that dino oil does. Just a safety margin. It also flows better, is slicker, and has more cling than dino oil. Not a bad thing at all. Run it if you want, you'll be fine.


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## Koppster (Jul 27, 2008)

Valvoline VR1 (20-50) and K&N HP2003


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## BatmanGTO (Jun 18, 2011)

Thanks everyone, I bought the Valvoline VR1 20w-50.


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## 1992cheviac (Mar 4, 2021)

BatmanGTO said:


> lol, new problem, where in the heck to I put the oil in? Can't find a funnel tiny enough to fit the dip stick hole. I see no other place to put the oil.
> 
> Is it common for these old motors to use oil? It isn't leaking and don't smell like oil, but is using it.


I created an account to reply to this lol, there is an soil fill cap on your valve cover, twist that puppy off and hold your funnel in there and let er flow 👍


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## BearGFR (Aug 25, 2008)

1992cheviac said:


> I created an account to reply to this lol, there is an soil fill cap on your valve cover, twist that puppy off and hold your funnel in there and let er flow 👍


Glad you decided to join up - very curious about your screen name  
However, did you notice that the post you replied to is from 2011? 

Bear


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## 1992cheviac (Mar 4, 2021)

BatmanGTO said:


> lol, new problem, where in the heck to I put the oil in? Can't find a funnel tiny enough to fit the dip stick hole. I see no other place to put the oil.
> 
> Is it common for these old motors to use oil? It isn't leaking and don't smell like oil, but is using it.





BearGFR said:


> Glad you decided to join up - very curious about your screen name
> However, did you notice that the post you replied to is from 2011?
> 
> Bear


My screen name is after my truck, I have a 92 single cap short bed with a 455 ho, and yeah I noticed that afterwards 😂


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## NOS Only (Nov 14, 2017)

peahrens said:


> My thoughts on oil from another thread on synthetics:
> 
> There's lots of websites that cover conventional / synthetic pros & cons. I found Joe Gibbs site pretty useful. They sell some; e.g., the HR (hot rod) oils for (non-cat converter) high performance street cars in both varieties so they offer some good insights on pluses and minuses of each type.
> 
> ...


LOL!

Joe Gibbs website plugging Joe Gibbs oil.

Now there is unbiased info. Guess it worked. You bought into it.

What oil would people used if they went on the SCAMSoil site?

LMAO


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## Lemans guy (Oct 14, 2014)

Valvoline has ZR-1 synthetic Racing oil 10W-30 with ZDDP.."..Summit and many dealers have it easy to order.

Amsoil has ZROD 10W-30 with ZDDP.......both have the same amounts of ZDDP

All oil filters are not the same. I only use Wix, but you may find some almost as good, but some filters are very poorly made.

I like these Synthetics with ZDDP for my flat tapped cam.

Also detergents were mentioned, to make sure contaminants leave your engine crankcase, you need a good filter and a good Crankcase ventilation system.

make sure your PCV system works as designed and makes a POSITIVE thru Vacumn extraction of the crankcase vapors and a breather where clean air comes in.

A system with no breather and sealed valve covers to look good is destroying your engine, likewise multiple breathers with no positive ventilation will not satisfactorily remove the harmful crankcase blow by and vapors and condensation. The Vacumn action of your PCV valve sucks it out. At very low vacumn. Like 3 Hg. This is not the same as manifold Vacumn......

so each vehicle you use you decide the level,of filter and oil you need. Like the guys said some stuff any old oil and filter as long as fresh might so OK in an old work truck. But your best hot rod.....I would get a Wix, and ZDDP and Synthetic oil.


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