# Pilot bearing stuck in crank



## MaL (Jun 12, 2008)

I never checked the crankshaft for the old pilot bearing and lo and behold, there it is on the day I'm ready to join the clutch to the block. The old rusty (frozen) pilot bearing (ball bearing) is really stuck tight. I've tried to pry it from different angles, but no luck.

What tips/tricks do you have to get this out of there?


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## Rukee (Feb 8, 2007)

Ole trick, and you have to promise not to tell anyone, okay?!

Find a socket that fits tightly inside the bearing. Then fill the bearing, socket and the crank with wheel bearing grease. Fit the socket into the bearing and with a small extension plugged in to close the hole in the back of the socket, hit the extension with a hammer really freakin hard. The force will cause the grease to 'press' the bearing out. You may have to refill the area with the grease several times before it's finally out.


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## geeteeohguy (Feb 2, 2008)

The Rukee fix is proven. It works because the grease is not compressable. Secret is to get a good fit with the socket. I would try spraying penetrating oil around the bearing and letting it soak before doing this. I've had good luck with a slide hammer puller and a small, tough hook on the end. They make a seal puller that works well for this too. It's shaped like an L with a peg on the side to hit with a hammer. I've used that, too. You may want to use a little heat, also. Be patient, and don't damage the crank.


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## Silver69GTO (May 25, 2009)

I would remove the crank before you start using anything to bang the bearing out.
You can possibly damage the thrust and main bearings by banging to hard on the installed crank.


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## Too Many Projects (Nov 15, 2008)

Silver69GTO said:


> I would remove the crank before you start using anything to bang the bearing out.
> You can possibly damage the thrust and main bearings by banging to hard on the installed crank.


The socket and grease press doesn't exert any blunt force on the crank. I turn the socket around so the flat back side is in the bearing. That way the grease can't fill the socket and allow it to bottom on the crank.


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## Rukee (Feb 8, 2007)

Silver69GTO said:


> I would remove the crank before you start using anything to bang the bearing out.
> You can possibly damage the thrust and main bearings by banging to hard on the installed crank.


I said use a hammer, not a sledge hammer!!:willy:


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## geeteeohguy (Feb 2, 2008)

Even using the slide hammer with a button hook at the end won't do any damage to the thrust bearing. It's a small amount of impact, and if it were to damage the thrust bearing, there are other, bigger problems. Leave the crank in the car and choose your method. They all will work fine with no ill effects.


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## 66tempestGT (Nov 28, 2009)

i guess nobody uses old input shafts anymore to use as a lineup shaft. it would be the perfect size.


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## AlaGreyGoat (Jul 6, 2006)

The grease trick is great for older engines, but don't use it on newer LSx
engines. They have a pressed in plug (Similar to a freeze plug) that can be
pushed out(OUCH!).

Larry


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## Too Many Projects (Nov 15, 2008)

66tempestGT said:


> i guess nobody uses old input shafts anymore to use as a lineup shaft. it would be the perfect size.


I do but it's bulkier and harder to pound on than the 3/8ths extension head.


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## Rukee (Feb 8, 2007)

Too Many Projects said:


> I do but it's bulkier and harder to pound on than the 3/8ths extension head.


plus usually the snout(part that goes inside the bearing) is too short to get a good hit with the hammer. You want as much movement with the socket inside the bearing as possible to give you as much leverage/pressing power as possible.


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## geeteeohguy (Feb 2, 2008)

It's all about the stroke!


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## 66tempestGT (Nov 28, 2009)

Rukee said:


> plus usually the snout(part that goes inside the bearing) is too short to get a good hit with the hammer. You want as much movement with the socket inside the bearing as possible to give you as much leverage/pressing power as possible.


i have lots of practice with the short snout. you just have to use what you have.


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## 66tempestGT (Nov 28, 2009)

i compensate with my racecar.


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## Rukee (Feb 8, 2007)

_*That's*_ why your race car is sooo long.


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## VettenGoat (Jun 19, 2007)

An old input shaft makes for a great tool. That way, you tap say again tap the end of the input shaft into the grease filled cavity. You'll have to do this about four-five times to get it out. You should see movement on the second or third iteration. It works like a charm, and the crank does not have to be out.

BTW, Good luck finding a new bronze pilot bearing. If it's magnetic, avoid it!

Mike


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## MaL (Jun 12, 2008)

Crazy thing is the grease trick popped the inner bearing retainer out enough to allow the grease to slip past the bearings and ruining the hydraulic pressure.

A bit irritated, I broke the rest of the inner parts and ended up with the outer rim still in place.:willy:

So I dremmeled a bit of the outer part and finally was able to collapse it out of place. 3 hours of banging my head against the wall but no damage to the crank and mission accomplished. Phew! 

Thanks for the tips guys, I appreciate it.


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## Too Many Projects (Nov 15, 2008)

MaL said:


> Crazy thing is the grease trick popped the inner bearing retainer out enough to allow the grease to slip past the bearings and ruining the hydraulic pressure.
> 
> A bit irritated, I broke the rest of the inner parts and ended up with the outer rim still in place.:willy:
> 
> ...


Man, that one was really seized !! sorry to hear it was such a [email protected], but glad you prevailed...


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## geeteeohguy (Feb 2, 2008)

And, MAL, put a new bearing in , not a bronze bushing. I believe AMES has them.


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