# Rear end leak! Help!



## bigrc2 (Mar 28, 2009)

Ok here is a stupid newb question! I have dug in to the rear end yet but i have developed a leak coming from where the drive shaft goes in to the rear diff! How hard is that to fix?


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## Rukee (Feb 8, 2007)

Remove the drive shaft, remove the yoke nut, remove the yoke, remove the seal. Or you could swap out the diff fluid for some LUCAS gear oil and that might be thick enough to stop the leaking. Be sure to add the friction modifier if you have a POSI.


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## bigrc2 (Mar 28, 2009)

Ah thanks Rukee! I would have gone and looked at it but it is hot as hell right now!!


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## pontiac (Mar 6, 2011)

pulling that yoke and not messing up the crush sleeve behind the seal is not for the faint of heart. It is not that quite that easy to do.


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## 66tempestGT (Nov 28, 2009)

i had to use a puller to get mine off. and i had to bear down on it so hard i had to chock the wheels to keep from rolling off the jack stands. it was tight all the way off and almost as tight going back on.


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## Eric Animal (Oct 28, 2007)

Yep....how bad is the leak...I'd try the RUKEE idea first. We just did a NEW 12 bolt rear, and it isn't too easy. :cheers Eric


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## bigrc2 (Mar 28, 2009)

Ya I might just have to try that because the leak is not all that bad!


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## likethat (Oct 5, 2007)

Crush sleeve has to be the worst thing in the car. Every thing else is easy. Including rebuilding an automatic transmission. Tho the gearbox rebuild can run a close second to the sleeve.


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## geeteeohguy (Feb 2, 2008)

Pontiac is right. (as always). I have done this repair in this manner several times, with varying results. The TRICK is to mark your pinion nut before you remove it , and count the threads also, so you can install it in exactly the same position (plus just a HAIR more, literally) as it was. There is a torque spec for the nut and a drag spec for the bearing/diff, too. If you "backyard" it, be sure to mark the nut!!!! This method works about 80% of the time. Good luck.


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