# What's the correct way to break-in an engine?



## batmans (Aug 16, 2007)

From what I have learned and read is that you take it easy on the engine and vary the RPMs. City driving is the best.

But I'm wondering if anyone has heard that running the engine hard is the best way to break it in.

Break In Secrets--How To Break In New Motorcycle and Car Engines For More Power










These Honda F3 pistons show the difference. 

Although these pistons came out of engines which were raced for a full season, they weren't set-up with any special clearances or other preparation. 

These engines were never worked on prior to being raced. They were totally stock as built by Honda.

The only difference was the break in method they used...

The one on the right was broken in as per MotoMan's instructions. 

The one on the left was broken in exactly according to the owner's manual. The resulting leaky rings have allowed pressure to "blow by" down into the crankcase on acceleration, and oil to "suck-up" into the combustion chamber on deceleration.


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## jpalamar (Jul 22, 2008)

I think the whole breaking in motors is old school. I highly doubt the newer motors need it. Plus I'm sure the motors are ran hard atthe factory prior to being installed on the car/bike. This is just my thoughts and who knows if I'm right or not.


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## batmans (Aug 16, 2007)

What about for my rebuilt, re-honed engine from my shop?

It's almost finished, just need to order springs.

Also, I'm hearing different thoughts on break ins with dino vs. synthetic oils.


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## Rukee (Feb 8, 2007)

When I build a motor I go out and the first or second pass I give her the berries. If it's going to fly apart I want it to fly apart on me and not the customer. Cause you know as soon as they get out of site, they're going to be flooring it to see what kind of engine they got.
On and off the throttle hard under load will help, when your on the throttle hard it seats the rings, when your off the throttle decelerating the pistons will suck oil up to the rings lubricating. Very the rpm's, on and off the throttle hard, but just don't be an idiot.


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## batmans (Aug 16, 2007)

Do I take it to redline?


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## Rukee (Feb 8, 2007)

no. I'd drive it hard but would not come close to redline till after the break-in.


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## batmans (Aug 16, 2007)

for a GTO the redline is about 6500RPMs.

What would the limit be for the break in period?


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## Poncho Dan (Jun 30, 2009)

I wouldn't take it over 4500-5000. Really "break in" is just to get the piston rings seated. Varied throttle is what you need, and quick WOT blips shouldn't hurt it any. After say 300 miles you should be good, and at that point I would suggest another oil change right away. Then you should be good to flog it as you see fit.


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## batmans (Aug 16, 2007)

I'm also reading up on different opinions with regards to breaking in with dino vs. synthetic oils.

I spoke with Amsoil and they recommended the Dominator Synthetic 10W-30 Racing Oil (RD30) since it features an additive package heavily fortified with zinc and phosphorus for superior long-term wear protection.

Then after the break-in use their Signature series 0w-30 oil.










Any thoughts?


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## Poncho Dan (Jun 30, 2009)

Royal purple makes a 5w-30 that is specifically for motor break-in, though I don't see why straight up AMSoil 5w-30XL wouldn't work just as good.


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## heyman (Jan 15, 2010)

:agree


Rukee said:


> no. I'd drive it hard but would not come close to redline till after the break-in.


no synthetics on a rebuilt, till after 2-3 thousand miles,


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## heyman (Jan 15, 2010)

I'm a Amsoil dealer 35 years, use dino oil on rebuilt, on new motors I have use it sooner, but in reality , I still believe dino for a couple thousand


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## heyman (Jan 15, 2010)

On a fresh rebuilt, 20-30 minutes for cam break-in, drain oil new filter, run the car for about 50 miles, drain oil and filter, Now this next part is probably overkill, but I run the car for about another 100 or so, and do another oil change, oils cheap, motors, not so much.


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## Poncho Dan (Jun 30, 2009)

+1

But I'm curious as to why to not use synthetic, other than for cost reasons...


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## heyman (Jan 15, 2010)

Poncho Dan said:


> +1
> 
> But I'm curious as to why to not use synthetic, other than for cost reasons...


It's just TOO slippery


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## GM4life (Mar 18, 2007)

Rukee has the best advice. It's been years since I've built engines and pretty much did what Rukee have with the ones I've put together and had no problems with it. You just want to seat the rings really, you don't have to seat flat tappets. The engine don't fully brake in for many many miles. Change the oil at 500miles and 1000mi then 3-5k after that. If your getting new valvesprings they need to go through a few heat cycles. Don't rev your engine above 3k until engine is full operating temperature or you might break a valvespring.

Manufactures get away with using synthetic in brand new engines because they are allready dry ran before they go into the car.


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## Goat67 (Dec 29, 2009)

Poncho Dan said:


> .....Really "break in" is just to get the piston rings seated.


I've also read that the break in period is a time when small metal chips and flakes come off of new parts and are circulating in the oil. So, the first oil change is supposed to be really important. But wouldn't the oil filter pick those up?


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## Rukee (Feb 8, 2007)

Goat67 said:


> I've also read that the break in period is a time when small metal chips and flakes come off of new parts and are circulating in the oil. So, the first oil change is supposed to be really important.* But wouldn't the oil filter pick those up?*


Only if the oil pump picks it up. Use only a quality oil filter and I'm not talking a fram either, which, if you were to cut one open, you'd see it's just a tin can with a half a roll of TP in it.


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## Poncho Dan (Jun 30, 2009)

So what do you recommend for a filter, Rukee? K&N? I've got a Fram ToughGard on mine now, and she'll need a change in spring.


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## Rukee (Feb 8, 2007)

I use only the NAPA ProSellect(Gold) or the NAPA NascarSellect series filters.


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## batmans (Aug 16, 2007)

I'm partial to the Walmart's ST $2 oil filters.

Yes you heard me right. I've used this for many years on the RX7, brother's RX8, truck, etc.

The reason isn't based on price (though it's nice to be the cheapest of the bunuch thanks to Walmart's tremendous buying power). It was based on the fact that the MPE is 99% and the SPE is 98%. that's higher than any of the other oil filter makers, including K&N, Mobil 1, Purolator, Fram's TG series, and the OEMs.

Apparently Walmart uses either a better or denser form of the synthetic filter element that K&N, Mobil 1, Purolator, Fram's TG series seem to use.

The filter construction looks good to me.


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## Rukee (Feb 8, 2007)

^^hahaha that's a good one!! You're going to trust your new supercharged stroked motor (costing you how much? 8-9 grand by the time your done?) to a $2.00 walmart oil filter?!?! 



...everything I've seen at walmart has been junk, they demand such a low price from their suppliers I wouldn't doubt it if they were send seconds and rejects to stock their shelves.


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## batmans (Aug 16, 2007)

One of the NSX guys told me his recipe for breaking in:

Proper warm-up and cool-down cycles, and good hard pullls with the engine at proper operating temperature. The warm-up and cool-down cycles are important for a bonding layer of oil to form on surface of the metal. This bonding layer will reduce metal-metal contact and reduce friction. The repeated warm/cool cycles help this layer build up on metal surfaces. Giving the engine loaded pulls to redline once it has reached proper temp helps seats the rings. Avoid lugging the engine during break-in. Change the oil a few times during break-in, like after the first hour, and at 20 and 100 miles with natural oils. After break-in, switch to a synthetic.


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## batmans (Aug 16, 2007)

I'm having intermittent lifter noise when the engine is sitting idle.

The shop that did the rebuild said that it's normal during the break-in process for the LSx engines.

He recommends using this:










But on my search for GM# 88862586 I came across these:




























Do they accomplish the same result?

If so, which one is better?

Also, is there a specific additive for the ticking lifter to help break it in?


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