# I think maybe -- all the painting is DONE



## BearGFR (Aug 25, 2008)

I messed up a little and waited until -after- painting and buffing the car before painting the inside of the trunk. I was sweating bullets, worrying that somehow some over spray would escape and ruin my paint job. I masked off the whole car, stuffed rags in all the places I could find where paint might "get out" of the trunk, wrapped it in plastic sheeting bumper to bumper... then took a deep breath and did it. Whew!

Except for maybe a bracket or small part I might run into now and then, I think this means that all the painting is now done and I can get serious about assembling everything. I put the rear seat covers on this weekend too, and they turned out pretty good. 

Still to go: front seats, carpet, door panels, steering wheel, console, shifter, headliner, all the glass, about half the stainless trim, tail lights, rear wiring harness, wheels and tires, rear bumper, exhaust tips, bleed the brakes.

Yippee.


















Bear


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## jetstang (Nov 5, 2008)

I sprayed splatter paint on my 70 before I got it painted, got dry splatter all over the car. After I got it painted, this time I just brushed on silver POR-15 on the whole trunk and left it. I want splatter, but don't want to go through what you did for the effect, looks real good.


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## Instg8ter (Sep 28, 2010)

Looks great Bear, still have to do mine, it's on the list for early spring will probably do as you did Bear as i will also have a GTO hood that needs color and probably get the booth for a few hours. The warps from the sandblasting incident are coming back out in the hood after heat cycles, so much for two weeks of straightening. Ohh well, figured on getting GTO hood anyways, will re-spray both and have a spare.


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## facn8me (Jul 30, 2011)

All looks good!!


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## jetstang (Nov 5, 2008)

Instg8ter said:


> Looks great Bear, still have to do mine, it's on the list for early spring will probably do as you did Bear as i will also have a GTO hood that needs color and probably get the booth for a few hours. The warps from the sandblasting incident are coming back out in the hood after heat cycles, so much for two weeks of straightening. Ohh well, figured on getting GTO hood anyways, will re-spray both and have a spare.


I put a new GTO hood on my 70 and it didn't take any body work and was dead straight. I am trying to buy a new 66 hood, just cant' find one at the swap meets, already sold out by the time I get there, 4 times now. Hope it's as straight as my 70. I thought about hacking out the scoop on my hood and retro fitting onto a Lemans hood, but don't want the weld marks inside the hood. Hood is $429, but swap meet you don't pay the $149 shipping.


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## Eric Animal (Oct 28, 2007)

Bear, That trunk looks great! JET, don't hack, wait! E


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## geeteeohguy (Feb 2, 2008)

First class all the way, Bear, just like everything else you've done so far!


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## BearGFR (Aug 25, 2008)

Thanks for the kind words guys --- they're very encouraging to this old f*rt 

Bear


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## jetstang (Nov 5, 2008)

Eric Animal said:


> Bear, That trunk looks great! JET, don't hack, wait! E


Been waiting 1.5 years and 4 shows, getting frustrating.. If I had uncle E bucks, it would already be in the garage, lol.. Body guy says he can fix my old GTO hood, may come to that.. :cheers
Bear, I did mine originally and put a new mat in the trunk, but had a leak and put rust on the back of the mat. Then replaced the fill panel and stopped the leak, then POR 15. That splatter paint doesn't seal the trunk at all, very porous. Some people clear coat it for longevity.


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## ALKYGTO (Mar 29, 2010)

Looks very nice Bear! Quite the contrast with the slick black paint. Who's trunk paint did you use?

I did mine with Eastwood and used their diamond clearcoat to finish it and I was real happy with the outcome but now it's filled with 45 gallons of stainless steel fuel cell so you can't see any of it. 

Oh well, mines not a grocery getter anyway. :lol:


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## BearGFR (Aug 25, 2008)

> Who's trunk paint did you use?


I used some stuff from The Parts Place. It's applied with a gun instead of an aerosol can and doesn't require clear coating. The stuff sprays like drywall cement though so it takes a big honking spray tip to apply it. I put it over a coat of gray SPI Epoxy primer.

All the restoration literature says the "correct" trunk color for my car is a black base with aqua flecks, but I'm positive the original trunk color was sort of a greenish base with both gray and black flecks in it. I went with the gray/white just because I thought it would look better with the black exterior. None of the other colors on my car are as original anyway, except for the interior. That was a hard decision to make. The dataplate codes say the original color was Palladium Silver with a black vinyl top. It was difficult deciding to deviate from that, but once I decided to nuke the vinyl top then it wasn't such a leap to decide to also paint it whatever-the-heck-color-I-wanted. 

Bear


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## Eric Animal (Oct 28, 2007)

jetstang said:


> Been waiting 1.5 years and 4 shows, getting frustrating.. If I had uncle E bucks, it would already be in the garage, lol.. Body guy says he can fix my old GTO hood, may come to that.. :cheers
> Bear, I did mine originally and put a new mat in the trunk, but had a leak and put rust on the back of the mat. Then replaced the fill panel and stopped the leak, then POR 15. That splatter paint doesn't seal the trunk at all, very porous. Some people clear coat it for longevity.


Sometimes money isn't the issue...... shops and others have very strange schedules. I spend plenty of time 'waiting for parts'...for instance, I've been waiting 4 weeks for a 12 pt. ARP bolt kit to arrive! BOLTS for cripes sake!:willy: Had the money to do my build before I started, ...coming up on 2 years in November!


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## jetstang (Nov 5, 2008)

Eric Animal said:


> Sometimes money isn't the issue...... shops and others have very strange schedules. I spend plenty of time 'waiting for parts'...for instance, I've been waiting 4 weeks for a 12 pt. ARP bolt kit to arrive! BOLTS for cripes sake!:willy: Had the money to do my build before I started, ...coming up on 2 years in November!


I'm just talking about buying a hood at the swap meet, and saving the $150 in shipping.. Keep running around trying to find one, and they are sold.. But, if I want Chevelle crap, I can get all I want at 1/3 the price.. GTO bumper $450, Chevelle $150. Bang for the buck, Chevelle FTW. Sucker for Punishment, Pontiac Owner.. At least we can laugh at the Buick GS and Olds 442 owners, because there isn't Sh#t for them, GTO X 2 money for them..
Eric, I like my 66, buy as long as it's stored I'm cool, I'll get it done sometime, hopefully get on it soon. Not mad that I don't have it, mad at my body guy for not doing anything, but the body shop is ready for it.. Just have to get it there.


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## Eric Animal (Oct 28, 2007)

Jet, I fully agree about parts. Everything for GTO is at least 50% more than Chevelle. Just gotta keep lookin'...I'll keep an eye open for a hood for you, but then there is the $hipping issue! Eric:cheers


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## Rukee (Feb 8, 2007)

They're a reason why stuff is more expensive, cause it's worth it!


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## Eric Animal (Oct 28, 2007)

:agree:agree:agree


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## BearGFR (Aug 25, 2008)

More progress...


























Bear


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## BatmanGTO (Jun 18, 2011)

Looks real good bear!


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