# Frame prep



## TriPower65 (Mar 18, 2014)

Sandblasting vs. Soda blasting vs. Chemical dipping the bare frame. Pros and cons of each.

School me. Go....


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## cij911 (Oct 25, 2017)

Leave alone and just apply your preferred rust prevention paint is another option


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## PontiacJim (Dec 29, 2012)

Its all about the budget. Chemically dipping and then having them prep/prime the frame with a sealer is the way to go.

Sand blasting works fine. The frame is heavy steel, so not too much of a worry in warping panels. The down side is that you cannot get inside the boxed areas. I sand blasted my frame myself. Light rusting throughout, and cleaned up real good with little effort. I did the frame in "thirds." Once I got one section blasted, I wiped down and then used the POR-15 on it. Then did the next section.

For inside the frame, you can get some sand blasting in there from various holes and get some of the rust knocked off. Blow everything out real well. I used the Eastwood internal frame rust inhibitor https://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-internal-frame-coating-14oz-aerosol.html to shoot inside the enclosed areas of the frame through the various frame holes. 

Then once the frame was done, gave it about 2 weeks to dry and then shot a coat of POR-15 top coat to seal everything. I then waited another 2 weeks or so as I worked on the frame and gave it a coat of Rustoleum black on top of that.

I don't see any use for soda blasting unless it was for thinner sheet or delicate parts. But, sure some would use soda blasting.

I would just make sure that the blaster you select if you have someone do it, does not use some real high pressure system that will destroy stuff. You don't want some guy who sandblasts boat hulls doing it. :thumbsup:


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## TriPower65 (Mar 18, 2014)

Good info, PJ. We have a local outfit that will dip things as large as cars (they have a place in Burlington too). Not sure what they do for a sealer, but I will contact them. I can sandblast it myself, which is certainly an option and may do that too in order to use the savings on other things I'll be needing with the car.

I guess the thing with soda blasting is that it doesn't build heat to warp thinner body panels - so I can see where that's unnecessary for a frame. Is it any more effective at removing rust from any pitted areas?


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## PontiacJim (Dec 29, 2012)

TriPower65 said:


> Good info, PJ. We have a local outfit that will dip things as large as cars (they have a place in Burlington too). Not sure what they do for a sealer, but I will contact them. I can sandblast it myself, which is certainly an option and may do that too in order to use the savings on other things I'll be needing with the car.
> 
> I guess the thing with soda blasting is that it doesn't build heat to warp thinner body panels - so I can see where that's unnecessary for a frame. Is it any more effective at removing rust from any pitted areas?



A quick research on the two show that sand blasting is better at removing rust. 

Soda blasting is better used on lighter sheet metal as it won't heat/warp panels - sandblasting can.

Soda blasting prevents further rusting by forming a rust-inhibiting protective coating on metals. Question then would be - any different prep for applying something like POR-15 or even a primer and paint?

Here is where you might email the manufacturer of whatever top coat you select to get a definitive answer if you used the soda blast to follow up on any sandblasting. As I recall, and you can check their website, POR-15 works better with a rusty surface than clean steel, so sandblasting might be best unless you go the dip route.


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## TriPower65 (Mar 18, 2014)

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## dd68gto (Nov 14, 2012)

TriPower65 said:


> Sandblasting vs. Soda blasting vs. Chemical dipping the bare frame. Pros and cons of each.
> 
> School me. Go....


Spend a day scraping rust scale and any lose chips off frame. Then go out and buy a gallon of Por 15 and apply as instruction tell. This stuff loves rust so don't worry . Get s gun with long nozzle to get the inside frame coated good .I would do two coats . Make sure you wear clothes you don't mind tossing or being stained for life. Make sure you cover every point of contact with skin . Double gloves. If you do get on skin use toupe addhive remover. I know laugh . Then forget about your frame ever rusting in your life time . Cost is two or three days in your labor and cost of gallon of POR 15 black paint under 100 dollars maybe more not cheap but good. . This is by far the best way to save your frame from ever rusting again. Doug


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## Instg8ter (Sep 28, 2010)

if you can get it dipped and sealed thats the way to go. had my gas tank done at a local place that has vats up yo 18'x8' and it came back like brand new. Since myframe was "Ziebarted" at the dealership and laughed off several bags of black cat coarse and I was not doing a frame off i just power washed the red desert dust caked on that looked like rust and prepped any non rustproofed and loose spots with POR15 then rustproofed neatly to match original. Whoever did it should have got employee of the month, i didnt have many spots to touch up and zero rust. I figure if its held up that good for 50 years it will last another 50.


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## BearGFR (Aug 25, 2008)

I had the frame on my 69 sand blasted, then I applied a good quality tough primer followed by quality black paint. Most of the time, after doing work like this these cars are going to be somewhat pampered and protected from the elements for the rest of their lives, not left out in the elements, not driven in mud or snow, etc. so my personal opinion is that you don't have to go crazy with ironclad protection from stuff like that.


Bear


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## TriPower65 (Mar 18, 2014)

Point well-taken, Bear. This car will be driven on good weather days and garage kept.

I did get a quote from a local chemical dipper to do the frame for $350. Didn't think that was too bad.

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## Instg8ter (Sep 28, 2010)

Probably be that much for blasting and the dip will get into every crevice, when you get it back i would apply an epoxy base coat to seal it then your finish coat. Like Bear said they get babied after you dump all the time, sweat and money into them so its a mater of budget and time and quality you expect on something you will only see a few feet of from the engine compartment.


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