# Fuel Pump Installation



## 69_RA-IV (Oct 6, 2015)

I've changed tons of fuel pumps, and I've never had this many problems. The pump is fine, but the gasket was leaking, so I needed to change that $5 part.

First, the service manual is oddly missing fuel pump info (not in index), and I have the .pdf copy so flipping through to find it ain't happening. If it's in there and someone can tell me where, then that would be great. Maybe I'm missing something.

When I went to re-install the pump I could get the bolt threaded in on the outside of the timing chain cover, but for the life of me I could not get the inside bolt to thread in. Tried for an hour to fight that spring. So far I've tapped the threads in the timing chain cover to clean them up and got new 1 inch bolts and tried again...still no luck. I've tried to crank the motor to move the cam into a position that would ease installation, and got it into a position where I'm not fighting the spring as much, but still...no luck.

However, I bought some 1.5 inch bolts while I was at the store. With those I can I can relatively easily get the threads started and the pump installed (or test fitted anyway). I've checked how far the bolt threads into the timing chain cover, and there's still a good inch between the bolt and the timing chain, but I'm worried about it extruding into the engine cavity very much at all.

I'm going to machine some 1.5 inch bolts down to 1.25 and try again, which would give a bit more clearance between the bolt and timing chain. My question is am I making a mistake by doing so? I really don't want to hurt that motor. Also, torque specs for the fuel pump bolts would be nice if anyone knows.


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## Goat Roper (Oct 28, 2014)

Did you try to put the original back on?
Some of these pumps parts guys say they will fit but the arm on the pump is different.
Did you compare the arm on the new pump with the old one?
Something isn't right and if you force it to fit you are going to break something when you fire it up.

Edit:

Nevermind, I just reread your post and see you changed the gasket not the pump and have no idea why it won't just bolt back up.


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## oldskool (Apr 26, 2015)

"... there's still a good inch between the bolt and the timing chain..."


Since this is the case, I don't see a problem. Nobody will even know how far the bolt sticks thru, unless you tell 'em. If the bolts are not making contact with anything, the worse that could happen is that the threads will get a lot of oil on 'em.


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## 69_RA-IV (Oct 6, 2015)

*Well Hell! I'm screwed?*

I determined that the reason I couldn't get the 1" bolts to thread in is because the first 1/4" to 5/16" of the threading in the timing chain cover was pretty much toast and the rest of the threads weren't much better. I could slide the bolts in and out that far. I was really hoping the remaining threads would be enough to hold it.

I installed the pump with the 1.25" bolts and it went textbook perfect...until I went to torque the bolts. Since I didn't know the actual torque specs, and because of the weak threads I set the torque wrench at a conservative 20 ft/lbs.

The threads on the inner hole are now stripped clean, and now I have I guess two options. Drill and tap out the inner hole to 3/8"-16 (Don't have the tooling to do it dead on at 90 degrees, machine shop maybe?) which I would think would require pulling the oil pan because of shavings. Or, replace the timing chain cover. I'm very open to other solutions.

So not happy :banghead: I was 2-3 days away from having her back on the road. Please help.


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## Goat Roper (Oct 28, 2014)

69_RA-IV said:


> I determined that the reason I couldn't get the 1" bolts to thread in is because the first 1/4" to 5/16" of the threading in the timing chain cover was pretty much toast and the rest of the threads weren't much better. I could slide the bolts in and out that far. I was really hoping the remaining threads would be enough to hold it.
> 
> I installed the pump with the 1.25" bolts and it went textbook perfect...until I went to torque the bolts. Since I didn't know the actual torque specs, and because of the weak threads I set the torque wrench at a conservative 20 ft/lbs.
> 
> ...


Get yourself a Keensert kit and drill the holes out with a greased drill and then chamfer with a larger bit..
Tap the holes to the proper size for the Keensert again greasing the tap to catch the shavings.
Install the Keensert with the tool and stake it then bolt on your pump.

Keensert

Keensert


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## Goat Roper (Oct 28, 2014)

Torque specs are 20-25 ft. lbs in 10 pound increments so you were good with 20 if the threads were not stripped.

Wallace Racing - Pontiac Bolt Torque Values


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## 69_RA-IV (Oct 6, 2015)

Goat Roper said:


> Get yourself a Keensert kit and drill the holes out with a greased drill and then chamfer with a larger bit..
> Tap the holes to the proper size for the Keensert again greasing the tap to catch the shavings.
> Install the Keensert with the tool and stake it then bolt on your pump.
> 
> ...


Thank you! That looks like it could be the best solution. Still though, I don't have a drill that will fit between the hole and the frame rail, much less any faith that I can get it drilled and tapped dead straight. I think I need to find a mechanic or machine shop locally (fingers crossed) that is familiar with these keensert inserts and can install one for me. I also need that mating face machined clean and flat. It looks like someone went after it with a steel grinding wheel or something at some point in the past. It's pitted and scratched pretty bad.



Goat Roper said:


> Torque specs are 20-25 ft. lbs in 10 pound increments so you were good with 20 if the threads were not stripped.
> 
> Wallace Racing - Pontiac Bolt Torque Values


Thank you, again! I saved that link, it will be invaluable. Didn't get very lucky finding anything that specific with my googling skills, but glad I guessed right. Fat lot of good it did me since the threads are gone now anyhow.

Still open to any other ideas/info/help. The keensert thing seems great, but I don't know what other solutions might be available.


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## Goat Roper (Oct 28, 2014)

Sounds like you had a hamfist in there before you.
I know it is tight but there is enough room to strike the face with a file to get it flatter and use a sealer on the gasket.
You can rent a right angle drill, I can eyeball to get a 90 but you can use an oak block if you have access to a drill press.
Drill the block, slide it onto the drill bit set the bit on the hole and slide the block down to the face and that will give you your 90.
It isn't that hard of a job but if you don't think you can do it find an old skool mechanic he can do the job in about an hour.
You can also use a heli coil but I quit using them when my parts guy showed me the Keenserts, they work so much better especially in cast aluminum. 

Wallace is a great site for info, I printed those pages so I would have all the torque specs when restoring my goat.


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## BearGFR (Aug 25, 2008)

Man, that sucks.

I'd be tempted to try this:

Figure out the next size larger tap that will cut new threads into your now stripped out hole without having to drill it out first. This may be metric, may be a special order size.
Load that tap up with plenty of thick grease to capture all the shavings, then carefully cut new threads into the hole. Use the appropriate size larger bolt.

Yeah, it's sort of an ugly solution but it might save you from having to pull the timing cover.

Personally, I'd bite the bullet and just remove the timing cover so the holes could be repaired off the car. It's not THAT hard to do...  The hardest part is reinstalling the balancer - lining it up with the keyway when you can't see it. The last time I pulled mine (a few weeks ago) I made a mark with a marker on the end of the crank that lined up with the key, then used a mirror to see so I could keep it lined up with the groove in the balancer. Not the easiest thing in the world to do, but I got it done. 

Bear


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## 69_RA-IV (Oct 6, 2015)

BearGFR said:


> ...It's not THAT hard to do...
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Not so much hard, but a time sucking PITA for sure.

I'd rather put the same size threads using an insert than to increase the bolt to 3/8. What options are there aside from Helicoils and Keensert? Advantages/disadvantages? So far I can't source a keensert localy.


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## BearGFR (Aug 25, 2008)

I've never used Keensert, but I have used Helicoils. They work great in my experience. For these bolts (small, low torque requirements) I'm sure that whatever's available to you will be fine. I'd be tempted to use green loctite on the coil insert to make sure it stays put since these are "through" holes, just make sure it's completely dry and clean on the inner side before you bolt on the pump 

Bear


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## Goat Roper (Oct 28, 2014)

You can find Keenserts FS on the net.
If you have an independent parts store that is where you will find the Keenserts, the chains are for parts replacers and they may have heli coils but they won't have Keenserts and probably don't even know what they are.

Your only other options are to find another cover or a shop that can weld it up then re drill and tap to original size.


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## Goat Roper (Oct 28, 2014)

BearGFR said:


> I've never used Keensert, but I have used Helicoils. They work great in my experience. For these bolts (small, low torque requirements) I'm sure that whatever's available to you will be fine. I'd be tempted to use green loctite on the coil insert to make sure it stays put since these are "through" holes, just make sure it's completely dry and clean on the inner side before you bolt on the pump
> 
> Bear


Next thread repair you do try a Keensert and you will never use another helicoil.
Helicoils are okay but these things are light years ahead of them.


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## 69_RA-IV (Oct 6, 2015)

Goat Roper said:


> I know it is tight but there is enough room to strike the face with a file to get it flatter and use a sealer on the gasket.


There's actually plenty of room right now since I have the steering gearbox out as well. I'll post a pic in a minute from my phone where you can see how damaged the surface is. Do you really think I can repair significant damage and keep the face flat and true with a wide file (maybe 1.5"-2")? Worried about bowing the surface and making things worse. 

Along with the surface damage, the pic will show the trashed threads. Maybe I'm crazy, but it looks like there may already be some type of thread insert in there. I really hope not, but It's very hard to tell.


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## 69_RA-IV (Oct 6, 2015)

Here's the pic


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## Goat Roper (Oct 28, 2014)

69_RA-IV said:


> There's actually plenty of room right now since I have the steering gearbox out as well. I'll post a pic in a minute from my phone where you can see how damaged the surface is. Do you really think I can repair significant damage and keep the face flat and true with a wide file (maybe 1.5"-2")? Worried about bowing the surface and making things worse.
> 
> Along with the surface damage, the pic will show the trashed threads. Maybe I'm crazy, but it looks like there may already be some type of thread insert in there. I really hope not, but It's very hard to tell.


That may be a helicoil in there, see if you can use a pick on one of the upper threads and see if it comes loose/out.
A flat fine cut file will clean that up and you can use dykem or a magic marker on the surface so you can see your cut better.
Just push it flat in the center and don't rock it and it will make a flat cut.
You don't have to get it machine smooth just knock off the high spots and use a good sealer like Ultra Blue and it shouldn't leak.


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## BearGFR (Aug 25, 2008)

Hard to tell from the photo, but it does kinda look like there's a coil in there already.

10-4 on the dykem or magic marker. Color the whole gasket surface with something like that, and when you file it (or sand it -- use sandpaper wrapped around a flat wooden block) any high or low spots in the surface will show right up. That gasket doesn't have to seal against any pressure to speak of, just oil splash off the timing chain.

Bear


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## BearGFR (Aug 25, 2008)

Goat Roper said:


> Next thread repair you do try a Keensert and you will never use another helicoil.
> Helicoils are okay but these things are light years ahead of them.


I just looked at a video about them. Pretty cool!

Bear


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## Goat Roper (Oct 28, 2014)

BearGFR said:


> I just looked at a video about them. Pretty cool!
> 
> Bear


Wait until you try one, it is a solid bushing not thin like a helicoil and it doesn't degrade like a helicoil no matter how many times you remove and re insert the bolt.
I have had helicoils come out with the bolt, that doesn't happen with a Keensert.


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## rickm (Feb 8, 2012)

I wish you good luck with that, however I think your gonna have to get a replacement timing cover.


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## PontiacJim (Dec 29, 2012)

Here is another idea. I found these self-tapping inserts called "Tap-Lok." Drill the hole as required, and the insert is self-tapping with threads inside for your bolt. I'd try this, put some thread lock on the insert to hold it in place and seal it. Main Website - Tap-Lok® Hole Type Threaded Insert

On the mating surface, what I do to save pitted areas, like those found on the water pump cover once you remove the water pump and see all the corrosion done to the aluminum on the sealing surface, is to put a light layer of JB Weld on it. Let it harden. Then use a flat file to bring the JB down smooth to the mating surface. It will fill in the pits and uneven spots. Saved a couple water pump/timing covers this way. :thumbsup:


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## Goat Roper (Oct 28, 2014)

PontiacJim said:


> Here is another idea. I found these self-tapping inserts called "Tap-Lok." Drill the hole as required, and the insert is self-tapping with threads inside for your bolt. I'd try this, put some thread lock on the insert to hold it in place and seal it. Main Website - Tap-Lok® Hole Type Threaded Insert
> 
> On the mating surface, what I do to save pitted areas, like those found on the water pump cover once you remove the water pump and see all the corrosion done to the aluminum on the sealing surface, is to put a light layer of JB Weld on it. Let it harden. Then use a flat file to bring the JB down smooth to the mating surface. It will fill in the pits and uneven spots. Saved a couple water pump/timing covers this way. :thumbsup:


Those look tough and self tapping is a bonus.

I used JB Weld on the cut inside my timing cover, it looked like a pump at one time had come apart and the impeller scored it pretty deep and it made a solid repair.


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## 69_RA-IV (Oct 6, 2015)

rickm said:


> I wish you good luck with that, however I think your gonna have to get a replacement timing cover.


Just as I was getting a bit hopeful... What makes you think that?

__________________________________________________

I pulled a small spring of threads from the hole, so I'm pretty convinced someone already went down the heli-coil path. 

I have called everyone in town worth calling, and none of the above mentioned inserts are available locally. However, I did find a mechanic that swears by and has some extra Ez-lock inserts. My research shows they're at least very robust, and reviews I've read look good so far. Any experience with those?


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## Goat Roper (Oct 28, 2014)

If it came out like a spring then it was a helicoil.
I have never used them but looking at them EZ locks are a full insert like Keenserts and take a special tool to put them in they use a thread locker similar to red Loctite to hold them in instead of stakes.
They will work better than a helicoil and since this mechanic has experience with them I would say let him do the job and it shouldn't take more than an hour to have that pump back on there.
Keep us updated.


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## 69_RA-IV (Oct 6, 2015)

*Conclusion, How I did it for posterity, and Thank you!*

...and in conclusion. I figured I'd post a how to for anyone searching in the future.

The last guy on my list to call in town just happened to be the one who had the E-Z Lok inserts available. Visited with him for quite a while, got some advice, and got a tour of his full service engine shop with some amazing equipment. I didn't think we still had one in town...good to know. 

Pic 1 - Collected everything I needed to do the job that I didn't already have. Aside from grease, everything needed is in the pic.

Pic 2 - The E-Z Lok inserts are pictured with their "installation tool," which is just a jamb not/bolt on top of the jig I made in my woodturning shop to make sure this job was done as accurately as possible. Both sides are machined flat. There's one 5/16" anchor hole, a 27/64" guide hole for the drill bit, and a 1/2" guide hole for the tap.

Pic 3 - Packed with grease the hole and anywhere inside the timing cover I could reach where I thought shavings might end up. I really packed just behind and under the hole.

Pic 4 - Covered the damaged surface in sharpie then very carefully, and awkwardly, filed down some of the imperfections with a medium bastard file. The pic is from about halfway through. You can see the result in later pics.

Pic 5 - Lightly attached my jig with the anchor bolt in the outer hole, and used the magnifier and flashlight on my phone to ensure the hole was aligned. Then tightened down the jig and double checked it again.

Continued...


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## 69_RA-IV (Oct 6, 2015)

*...Continued*

Pic 6 - With a well greased new drill bit I drilled out the hole, at high speed, but gradually and stopping every 1/4" or so to clear shavings and re-grease.

After drilling I completely cleared all the grease and shavings from inside the timing cover, and was glad I did. I then re-greased as before to catch the shavings from tapping.

Pic 7 - Unfortunately, my jig was off by 1/64" or so for the tap hole, but holding it by hand was fine I just needed a guide to get it started. So, with a well greased tap, stopping every 1/4" inch or so to clear shavings and re-grease, I tapped the hole.

Pic 8 - Shows the 1/2"-13 hole ready to accept the threaded insert. At this point I spent a lot of time clearing the shavings and every bit of grease I could reach out of the timing chain cover. I'm pretty sure anything left is microscopic and will be picked up by the filter before it goes anywhere to worry about...am I correct in thinking that??

Pic 9 - Done. The insert installed very easily with a jam nut/bolt. I gave it about 30 minutes and did a low torque test fit of the fuel pump and everything still aligns perfectly.

I left the thread lock to cure overnight and will re-install the pump later today. Should be a 10 minute job like it should've been in the first place!

Thank you folks for your help, Goat Roper and BearGFR especially. You certainly saved me some time and probably some money in getting this fixed and fixed right. :thumbsup:


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## Goat Roper (Oct 28, 2014)

Man that looks great! Not only did you do it yourself but it looks like you got more tools for your collection, a win/win.
Congrats!

:smile2:


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