# Ziggy's stroker build



## svede1212 (Nov 1, 2005)

As I posted in another thread I had pulled my motor/transmission due to a *Lunati link bar lifter failure* that took out a bunch of parts and required a complete motor overhaul. After getting the engine out I stripped it down to the bare block and transported it out to the machine shop. Two lifter bores were messed up They looked it over and felt they could save the block.

Seeing it was going to be a lot of work and expense I figured I may as well make it worth my while and stroke it out to a 6.3 (383 c.i.) with forged Wiseco -8cc pistons and Callies forged rods and crank. The shop is honing it out from 3.898" bore to a 3.903" to accommodate the new pistons. They are also going to clean up the whole block, line hone the crank bore, clearance the bearings, resurface the fly wheel and balance the entire rotating assembly from the harmonic balancer to the clutch. 

I forgot, in taking it apart I noticed that my clutch was not going to last a whole lot longer. Not feeling like I'll be in the mood to pull the trans again anytime soon it seemed like now would be a good time to do it. I pulled the motor and trans in one piece and it will be a lot easier installing the clutch out of the car. I had a Monster 3 which was a puck style. It was a fine clutch that always held my ~440 RWHP but it was a heavy, grabby, on/off clutch. That's fine for drag racing but I rarely did that and on the street it got tiresome. I got a McLeod twin disk street clutch that's rated for up to 800 HP. It will have a much softer feel and should work better for my needs.

I'll be posting to this thread from time to time to keep a progress report of my build. First up I just received these beautiful Wiseco forged pistons today. When the Callies crank and rods get here I'll take them out to the shop for balancing and then hopefully a week to 10 days later I'll bring it all home to start assembly. 

Here's my list of parts:

Callies forged 4" throw stroker crank
Callies forged rods
Clevite bearings
Wiseco -8cc forged dished pistons
FTI Hellraiser cam 229/236 .631/.631 111
Chevrolet CTSV Race lifters (no more Lunati) w/LS2 trays
Maybe new pushrods. I need to measure after assembly
Melling oil pump
Rollmaster single adjustable timing set
McLeod Street Twin Disk
New clutch slave
New pilot bearing
New cam sensor (the lifter failure took it, valves, timing chain and the cam out)
New crank seals
ARP head studs, rods, mains, crank and cam bolts
FelPro stock thickness head gaskets
Whatever else I run into

This goes along with my old parts of:
243 heads milled to 58cc chambers and CNC ported with 2.02 intake valves
Lunati (yuck) dual springs
Titanium retainers
Trunnion rocker upgrade
Ford 42# injectors
SvedeSpeed OTRCAI
MAFless Speed Density tuned
Nick Williams 102mm throttle body
FAST 102 intake manifold
SLP 1 3/4" headers
SLP underdrive pulley
Custom 2 1/2" cat(less)back w/X pipe and Borla XPS Pro mufflers


Goodies that came today:


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## Qnko (Jun 8, 2014)

Nice setup. I have couple of questions though. I am 28 and my gto is the first car that I build so I am not an expert. I called Vengeance racing for my set up (recommended by a friend who has a lot of modded cars) and they did not recommend speed density tune. What is the pros and cons of SD vs MAF?
Are you running open or closed loop?
I am very happy with the way my car runs, just want to learn a little. As i said I am not an expert so I called the experts for my build and I am very happy that I did.
And I also have a stage 3 and its not exactly an on and off clutch. Its heavier than stock, sometimes noisy and its harder to slip but its not that bad. I would really recommend this clutch to people that want to upgrade.


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## svede1212 (Nov 1, 2005)

I wouldn't recommend SD to anyone that didnt tune themselves as to do it right takes a lot of tweaking and most would not benefit enough for the expense. It obviously eliminates the MAF whcih for some is a bottleneck. Back when I did it there wasn't a LS7 MAF. Even with a MAF though there is some benefit. GM uses a hybrid MAF/SD tune. In steady state the MAF does a really good job at metering air. In throttle transitions it looks at the VE table (SD) to help fill in where it's at. Stock engine everything is fine but once you mod the VE table is off. With the VE dialed in the throttle will be crisper.

With my car once I figured out tuning I just kept retuning as I modded along. After the cam the reversion from overlap made the O2s a little wonky and had a hard time with idle (RPM would dip on decel and run extremely rich) in closed loop so I ended up running in open loop full time. I'd love to have it in open loop at idle and closed loop at higher RPM but haven't figured out how. No biggie as it runs fine and I have a wideband gauge so I know here fueling is always at.

Ya I could slip the stage 3 clutch but that's what wore the thing out so quickly. I only got about 20,000 on it and could have maybe gotten 5k more. The squealing was bothersome too. People would always look at me like the car was broken. If I took it out and thrashed on it it would go away for a while but city driving would glaze it again and it would come back. A twin has the best of both worlds for a street car with normal manners and good holding power. It was only $640 too (I already have a billet steel fly).


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## ALKYGTO (Mar 29, 2010)

Nice list of parts Svede, sounds like your doing it right with a complete block remachining and quality parts. Just something about the phrase "Callies forged 4" throw stroker crank" that lets you know it's serious. 

One critical part I didn't see on your list was a harmonic balancer, will you run the stock one? I highly recommend a Fluiddamper balancer or maybe Callies has a recommendation for use with their rotator.

Looking forward to the progress on your build, subscribed!


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## svede1212 (Nov 1, 2005)

I currently have a SLP underdrive. I know there are better but this is getting really expensive! . Retired on SS has limitations. I really hate to add it up but I'm probably nearing 5 Gs already.


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## svede1212 (Nov 1, 2005)

Well the crank and rods finally got here. Tomorrow morning it's off to the machine shop.


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## Rob (Aug 7, 2004)

Good luck with the build. Looking forward to seeing the results


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## svede1212 (Nov 1, 2005)

Got everything back from the machine shop. The block so far looks completely prepped for bolting up. I have to check a couple more clearances tomorrow and then the real build can begin.


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## svede1212 (Nov 1, 2005)

Pistons in


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## silversport (Mar 23, 2007)

closer and closer to the unveiling...good luck.

Bill


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## svede1212 (Nov 1, 2005)

Went through a delay on getting lifters but got back on the build today. Lifters were an arm and a leg but they look to be a much better quality part than the stock or "street" cast lifters that are cheaper. 

Installed the FTI Hellraiser cam, degreed it with a Rollmaster timing set, installed a Melling oil pump, the oil pan, Lunati "Race" link bar lifters and both heads with Cometic .040" gaskets. I've been running figures on compression and I'll be at 11.6 but more importantly my dynamic compression was going to be a problem so I retarded my cam 2* to bleed off a little and get the DCR under 9. That will raise my power band RPM a little but not much.

I have a few more small parts to get. Hopefully I can string a few days together and get the engine done by next week, install the flywheel/clutch/trans. . . then starts the install in the car. I've been lucky so far and have found all the parts I've needed. With it coming apart and scattered all over last fall I've been worried. It's starting to look like an engine again.


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## silversport (Mar 23, 2007)

closer and closer...looks great

Bill


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## svede1212 (Nov 1, 2005)

I hit a snag when my new McLeod twin disk did not install correctly and I had to send it back to the manufacturer in California to get it checked. Because of that I did not a lot done BUT I did manage to snag my son to help me get the engine dropped in. It's going to be at least another week and a half before I get the clutch back so I decided to just get what I could in and start attaching all the accessories, radiator etc and put the transmission in later. I was going to install the engine/trans in from the top like I took it out. At least this way I can get a jump on finishing it.


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## silversport (Mar 23, 2007)

minor setback but I'm sure you are getting anxious to get this back on the road soon...

Bill


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## svede1212 (Nov 1, 2005)

I have switched my hopes from getting it done by August to getting it done before winter!


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## sg3080 (Sep 14, 2013)

I just built a 408 this last summer for my 06. Hit plenty of snags from a corvette pilot bearing to 4 ARP main studs pulling the threads. Good luck!


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## svede1212 (Nov 1, 2005)

Whoo hoo! Still don't have the clutch but I couldn't wait to fire her up. Pulled the plugs and fuel relay to prime the oil pump and flashed in a larger cylinder size to the tune. I then reinstalled everything but the Svede and turned the key. After about 3-4 seconds to fill the full lines and injectors Ziggy roared and knocked the house off the foundation and the wife off the couch with the open headers. Didn't run it long but after a long build it was sweet to hear the music. Come on clutch! I've just past one year she's been down.










Video:


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## 05GTO (Oct 6, 2004)

http://www.gtoforum.com/f29/ziggys-rear-wheel-hp-76137/ *Poll*


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## silversport (Mar 23, 2007)

nice and looks great...

Bill


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## svede1212 (Nov 1, 2005)

BTW for disclosure, my heads are only so-so with bigger intake valves and some experimental CNCing. They got over-milled and are only 58cc cambers now making for high compression even with -8cc pistons. I degreed my cam back 2* to help bleed off some compression. I'd love some AFRs or PRCs matched up to my stroker . . . I'm probably leaving 25 RWHP or better on the table, another project down the road after my wife forgets about this one.


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## svede1212 (Nov 1, 2005)

Well the clutch has been in McLeods hands for over 2 weeks being checked under warranty. Still nothing despite being told 2-3 day turn around. I called after a week and was told it would be shipped the next day. Calling today another week later they still haven't shipped but said it will get right out. :banghead: Why me? I'll be working on the details but the big event of actually moving the car is now in a race with snow.  I bought this clutch in July so I would have it when needed.


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## svede1212 (Nov 1, 2005)

Got everything done and found out I have a leak somewhere by the slave so the exhaust, drive shaft, shifter and transmission have to come back off to find and fix the leak. I am sore and slightly bummed. I hope to get it done this week so I can drive her a little before winter.

Before she comes apart again I took this vid to motivate me to get back at it again. It's been a long build and I'm getting weary of it. I also found I have a small oil leak I believe out of one valve cover. At least that isn't as hard to fix as the slave.

Listen with earphones or better speakers to get a better idea of the sound. It's pretty loud in person despite having the quietest performance mufflers on her.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0l0L7gBn-kg&feature=youtu.be


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## svede1212 (Nov 1, 2005)

Well stubbornness and a little ingenuity and I have most of it done. I left the stifter, drive shaft and exhaust job for tomorrow (and fix the valve cover leak). I thought I could get the transmission out by myself and have it ready for when I could find help. After getting it out I went into the house for my daily constitutional and while sitting there thought "If you can't raise the bridge, lower the water". 

I have a HF trans jack but because the engine hangs down at an angle I used to have to install the trans angled up and forward before and so I couldn't just roll it forward. I tried jacking the engine level but the trans couldn't go up far enough and then go forward at that height. The idea that came to me was to lower the front of the car so the car was angled and the engine was level. I could then level the trans on the jack and just slide it forward. I turned the output shaft a little to mesh the input shaft up with the splines on the clutch and it slapped right in. 

I still have a lot of little stuff to reassemble but that was the worst part of the job. I may be rolling tomorrow if it ever stops raining.

Turns out the line to adapter fitting on the slave was barely even hand tight. I tightened that and then hooked up the slave and pressure tested it before I re-installed it. That worked pretty well and I also bled it by myself by taking the bleed end off my remote line and hanging it down below the transmission. It took a couple of slow pedal pushes to burp the big bubbles out. Then I could just keep filling the reservoir until I had a good stream and I screwed the fitting back on the end and tightened it. The pedal is firm with no evidence of air.


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## silversport (Mar 23, 2007)

you are inspiring Svede...

Bill


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## svede1212 (Nov 1, 2005)

Finished the project except for tuning which I will get started on. Absolutely awe inspiring torque and even though I have one of the quietest cat backs there is she makes a monstrous amount of sound. I have a clutch and ring break-in period before WOT but small blips of the gas broke the tires free.


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## silversport (Mar 23, 2007)

very cool and great news...waiting for full report...

Bill


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