# Why 1967 GTO?



## Patrick (Oct 8, 2004)

Hello... i'm brand new to the Forum... 

i don't know very much about GTO's, but i do like the look of the '67... i am looking for advice on the car : one of those things - i don't know why, but i know that i like it... could you fill me in if this is going to be a good year to buy, and what i should look out for (typical problems w/the '67), what options are desireable, how much should i spend and how i KNOW that what i buy is ACTUALLY a GTO...

thanks for your valuable time...


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## GasTiresandOil (Aug 2, 2004)

I'll give you what information I can. The 67 is the first year of the 400 engine block and the first year that no longer came with the 3x2 carb set up. They are quite a nice car aestically especially with the slit tail lights and long elegant body. Trouble spots on these as well as most muscle cars are between the wheel and door on the lower portions of the fender where they tend to rot. Also right behind the package tray and rear window. The 670 heads are one of the finest heads, behind the 16's, that were not ram air heads. They still were optioned with the rally I rims and a 4-speed could be quite desireable. Hope this will shed a little light on the situation.


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## Patrick (Oct 8, 2004)

Yes... that did help... 

tanks!!!!!!

PS - what is "OG?"


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## 05GTO (Oct 6, 2004)

Patrick said:


> how much should i spend and how i KNOW that what i buy is ACTUALLY a GTO...
> 
> thanks for your valuable time...


67 GTO's can range from $2,500 for a parts car to well over $30,000 for a profesionally restored goat. The vin number on the true 67 goat should start with 242*********. It's wise to check that to verify you are not buying a modified tempest or lemans. Also I believe 67 was the first year of the his/her dual gate shifter.

I am also new to this forum, very nice site, my first car in the early 70's was the 67, what a fun car!


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## jfour55 (Oct 2, 2004)

*What should I do?*

The first question i got is I have a 1972 LeMans with a 350 I have been contimplating what to do with it. I think i want to make it into a 71 GTO Judge clone because i have a 1970 455 that would be perfect for the car, but on the other hand I have the original paper work on the car. I have the original sales receipt from the dealership it was purchased at and the receipt stub for the payoff on the car. In my opinion it is jus a LeMans, but i also dont know the rareness of the car. Does anyone have any ideas of what I should do with this car? Now I have another car its a 68 GTO I found it in a junkyard with no fenders or nose on it. It has a hood all the glass a bad passenger door and the quarters and trunk are pretty rough. I'm payin $200 for it with a 400c.i. 2bbl. It has the Ram Air hood with it, but it is a peg leg. Anyhow the ol boy im gettin it off of said he had a title for it. If he dont I was thinkin i would go a head and get it and drag race it. Because i just can't see lettin a Goat out ta pasture when I could put it to use. What do ya think I should do with this one?


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## GasTiresandOil (Aug 2, 2004)

Patrick said:


> Yes... that did help...
> 
> tanks!!!!!!
> 
> PS - what is "OG?"



OG stands for *O*ri*G*inal.

My 68 looks like it just came off the assembly line from Fremont. Nice but not perfect. Whereas my 04 has been modded slightly.


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## jordangto (Nov 2, 2004)

The '67 is definitely the best-selling GTO of all time. It sold about 96,000 units. I really like it. If you can get a deal on one, get it! :cheers


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## aviate (Oct 5, 2009)

I recently bought a 66 gto. The minor differences between it and 67- the 66 can have factory tri-power carbs (3 deuces its sometimes called), louvers over the rear tail lights, a slightly lower chrome trim piece on the sides, a 389 instead of 400 CID. (but that is not a big difference in everyday driving). the bagding is on the body sides instead of the chrome. Then there are different setups for auto vs. manual. I believe the 66 came with a factory hurst shifter three speed available (which mine has).
One other thing to look for when shopping is pontiac historical society documentation. That helps to value the car as far as "numbers matching" or not. Also, verify the trim tag information matches the car if you plan on spending for that much detail.
good luck.


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## Too Many Projects (Nov 15, 2008)

The 66 and 67 are so close when you just look them over. I spent a few months deciding which I preferred. For me it came down to the rear of the car. I LOVE the 66 louvered tail lights but the bumper and q-panel trim flare out in a large crescent for use with the Tempest/Lemans tail lights. It just doesn't flow for me. The 67 has the straight bumper and trim line to follow the tail lights. I wish Pontiac had kept the 66 lights as well.... I actually prefer the 66 grilles a little but, again, they are so close to the 67 that it isn't an aesthetic issue for me. The interiors are almost identical. There are subtle changes as with most cars of the day to keep buyers coming back for the "new" model. The one thing that surprised and cost me a chunk of change is the fact that a number of the 67 components are a 1 year only and can be hard to find and expensive when starting with a stripped, rotten car like I did. The rocker trim is massive and hard to find in decent condition at a cost that doesn't require a second mortgage. The steering column and pedals can be difficult to find. The frame has a slight change at the front crossmember too and I drove from MN to central OK last spring to get a correct frame for my car. My car will by no means be even close to numbers matching but I do want to retain as much of the original appearance as possible. I don't care for Black interior so that will be the biggest change from original. It will be finished in Parchment and Dark Turquoise.

You're tastes will dictate what options you want like either an automatic or manual trans, A/C, PS,PB, convertible...etc. Now is a good time to buy with the prices still depressed but take your time and do plenty of research on how to decode the trim plate to check for originality. Also, once you get serious about a particular car, get the PHS documentation for it, if the seller doesn't already have it. It will tell you EXACTLY how the car was configured at the factory. If looking at a mid to high end restoration by all means have it evaluated by someone with experience in these cars. Rust issues alone can be a big problem later, if they weren't properly addressed.


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## roadrunnerats (Jan 30, 2013)

Hello,

I am working on a 67 gto that I came into the middle of. I have some questions on certain parts for reassembly.

1. Do I need a C clip to hold the wiper transmission to the wiper motor?

2. How do I orient the rear 1/4 glass to install them in the car? The gto is a hard top.

3. The car has factory air. So which inner fender does the washer fluid bracket bolt to?


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## El Monte Slim (Sep 8, 2014)

*Set the record straight*



jordangto said:


> The '67 is definitely the best-selling GTO of all time. It sold about 96,000 units. I really like it. If you can get a deal on one, get it! :cheers



I realize that this is a 13 year old thread, but I wanted to correct this misinformation.

1966 was the best selling year for GTOs with a total of *96,946* cars sold.

1967 sold only _81,722_ cars.

Both 66 and 67 GTOs are just beautiful! Personal preferences might make one favor one over the other. Can't go wrong with either!

66 was the first year that the GTO was a separate model as opposed to an option package on the Lemans.


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