# Pypes 2.5" stainless exhaust



## BigDuke0767 (Mar 1, 2011)

I installed a 2.5" stainless system on my 67 GTO and when I'm tightening up the 1" wide band clamp supplied by pypes i cannot get the exhaust to tighten up. I have cranked them on with a breaker bar and a jack handle to get more leverage but still it moves. Any tips? should i swap out the band clamps for regular muffler clamps?


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## Goat Roper (Oct 28, 2014)

I would take it to a muffler shop and have them weld it up.
Not a big fan of clamps or exhaust leaks.


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## BigDuke0767 (Mar 1, 2011)

I've thought about that but I need to get it to a point where I can have the exhaust not hang down on the car. I get all the band clamps tight (to the point where I broke my 3/8 drive rachet) and take the jack stand out thats supporting the xpipe and it drops almost 6 inches.


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## Goat Roper (Oct 28, 2014)

BigDuke0767 said:


> I've thought about that but I need to get it to a point where I can have the exhaust not hang down on the car. I get all the band clamps tight (to the point where I broke my 3/8 drive rachet) and take the jack stand out thats supporting the xpipe and it drops almost 6 inches.


Either wire it up to get it to a muffler shop or have it flat bedded.
Another option would be a mobile welder that can come to you.
Clamps basically suck and you really should get it welded and be done with it.
Just not worth the risk of it coming apart on the road, leaks and rattles etc.


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## 1968gto421 (Mar 28, 2014)

BigDuke0767 said:


> I've thought about that but I need to get it to a point where I can have the exhaust not hang down on the car. I get all the band clamps tight (to the point where I broke my 3/8 drive rachet) and take the jack stand out thats supporting the xpipe and it drops almost 6 inches.


Could there be a hanger missing somewhere?


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## BearGFR (Aug 25, 2008)

Something doesn't sound right. Are all the joints loose like that or just some? Make sure that all the joints are slipped together as far as they can go. Every connection ought to have a good 3" or so of pipe slipped inside it to the point where it comes close to hanging right with no clamps at all. If they're still loose and you've broken tools trying to get them tight, something's wrong.

I do agree with welding them. After I got mine all lined up the way I wanted it with clamps, I dropped it and welded it on the garage floor. I still have clamps where the tailpipes join the mufflers so that I can remove the system if I want, but everything else is welded.

Bear


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## BigDuke0767 (Mar 1, 2011)

Well I got it tight. And its up where it needs to be. still might take it somewhere and have it welded.


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## GTO JUDGE (May 14, 2005)

For what its worth:

My Pypes 2.5" exhaust system had a stainless X pipe. It hung low and was very noticeable from a side view. I finally had enough of it and took the car to a local renown exhaust place that specializes in hot rods. I was hoping to have the X pipe moved up closer to the bottom of the car. No can do, the transmission pan is preventing the X pipe from any further adjustments. If my car was manual there'd be no issue. 

There were no welds on the system at all except at the down pipe joint .... Straight pipe was installed from the down pipe back and welded in both places at the down pipe and muffler. The tail pipe was clamped above the rear end so it can be removed.

The splitters (1970) were secured with clamps and a rubber hanger which allowed play at the splitter to tail pipe joint. The clearance on the splitter to the cut out on the rear valance is about an inch. I have seen 70's where the splitters are too low and stick out too far. I have a Ram Air IV cam in my car and the car has a nice lope and somewhat of a shake which at times had my splitter vibrating against the valance. 

A hanger was bolted to the frame then spot welded to the tail pipe securing it. The splitters were tack welded in 2 spots to keep it on and if needed to be removed in the future, the weld can be broke easy with a dremel. There is no play in my system. Tail pipes solid the tail pipe solid. Only clamp in the entire system is the joint at the rear of my muffler. The removal of the X pipe as added a more aggressive sound that is unbalanced. 

Just sharing this as IMO welding is the way to go eliminating as many clamps as possible........ the installer of the X pipe I removed..... Each joint and clamps with the studs facing upward.... looked like $hit.... IMO secure the tail pipe and tip without clamps.... Mine wiggled in the past from the standard tail pipe clamp that caused vibration to the tips.


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## allpawl66 (May 9, 2008)

Call PYPES & enter a claim to have reimbursement of monies to install ,


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## chui1980 (Jun 5, 2013)

I agree with the idea of having that welded however be aware that if your tranny fails or any other components fail that may require removing exhaust you will go back to square one. I think you should have two spots where you use clamps. that is right after X or H and after the mufflers. Everything else welded. Just in case my opinion


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## Goat Roper (Oct 28, 2014)

chui1980 said:


> I agree with the idea of having that welded however be aware that if your tranny fails or any other components fail that may require removing exhaust you will go back to square one. I think you should have two spots where you use clamps. that is right after X or H and after the mufflers. Everything else welded. Just in case my opinion


My car came with an aftermarket system and I welded it up but the axle hits the pipes because the bends that go over it are not right.
They used the original bends off the manifolds which are very thin and have a few pinholes in them.
I don't like the X pipe tranny heater either so I ordered a factory correct system from Gardner and the system on it now has a date with Mr. Sawzall.

1967 GTO Exhaust Systems - Gardner Exhaust Systems - 1967 GTO Exhaust Sytems by Gardner


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