# valve setting



## simmons68 (Dec 22, 2009)

Just installed a new comp thumper cam (flat-tappet) in my 68 GTO. I need to set my valves. Any ideas on were I need to begin and in what order I need to adjust them in, and how to adjust them. I am at TDC right now. My 68 has a 400 stock engine with stock heads, 4 speed, 3:55 rearend, drum brakes, no air, no power steering, weekend driver. I am not sure what my next move is with my adjustments. 


Thanks


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## freethinker (Nov 14, 2009)

simmons68 said:


> Just installed a new comp thumper cam (flat-tappet) in my 68 GTO. I need to set my valves. Any ideas on were I need to begin and in what order I need to adjust them in, and how to adjust them. I am at TDC right now. My 68 has a 400 stock engine with stock heads, 4 speed, 3:55 rearend, drum brakes, no air, no power steering, weekend driver. I am not sure what my next move is with my adjustments.
> 
> 
> Thanks


do you have hydralic or solid lifters? it makes a difference.


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## dimitri (Feb 13, 2009)

Comp cams comes with a real good instuctions booklet on how to adjust the valves. You can also go to their website and look up the instructions.


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## simmons68 (Dec 22, 2009)

hydrolic lifters


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## freethinker (Nov 14, 2009)

simmons68 said:


> hydrolic lifters


ok. are you using aftermarket locking adjusting nuts or trying to use the stock pontiac nuts? the stock pontiac nuts are non adjustable. you just torque them down to 20 lbs and thats it. the problem is with aftermarket cams you sometimes need to go to aftermarket locking nuts to get the correct setting.


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## Koppster (Jul 27, 2008)

This might help:

Pontiac Rocker Arm Adjustment

Rick


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## Mr. P-Body (Jan 20, 2011)

How much "lift" does that cam "sport"? Anything beyond .470" REQUIRES different valve springs. The stock ones simply won't "do".

Jim


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## simmons68 (Dec 22, 2009)

*camshaft*

He guys, I installed a nw comp cam and lifters yesterday. (275 lift) in my 68 GTO 400. I am having trouble with my valve settings. I began at Number 1 at TDC and tightened until push rod had resistance then went 1/2 turn more. I continued the sequence in the correct order. The engined fired right up, but the nuts slowly back off after 5 minutes of running at 2,000 rpm. Do I need to toque them to 25lbs, some instructions say to do that and some say not to. As of right now the nuts will back off because 1/2 turn past tension on the push rods is not very tight. All help is welcomed. Thanks


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## freethinker (Nov 14, 2009)

simmons68 said:


> He guys, I installed a nw comp cam and lifters yesterday. (275 lift) in my 68 GTO 400. I am having trouble with my valve settings. I began at Number 1 at TDC and tightened until push rod had resistance then went 1/2 turn more. I continued the sequence in the correct order. The engined fired right up, but the nuts slowly back off after 5 minutes of running at 2,000 rpm. Do I need to toque them to 25lbs, some instructions say to do that and some say not to. As of right now the nuts will back off because 1/2 turn past tension on the push rods is not very tight. All help is welcomed. Thanks


if you are going to adjust that way you need locking nuts. stock pontiac nuts are non adjustable. you just bottom them out on the stud and torque to 20 lbs. 

it sounds like your geometry is close enough to use the stock nuts. i would just torque them to 20 lbs and see if it runs. if it runs and there is no slack in the rockers you should be good to go.


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## BearGFR (Aug 25, 2008)

simmons68 said:


> He guys, I installed a nw comp cam and lifters yesterday. (275 lift) in my 68 GTO 400. I am having trouble with my valve settings. I began at Number 1 at TDC and tightened until push rod had resistance then went 1/2 turn more. I continued the sequence in the correct order. The engined fired right up, but the nuts slowly back off after 5 minutes of running at 2,000 rpm. Do I need to toque them to 25lbs, some instructions say to do that and some say not to. As of right now the nuts will back off because 1/2 turn past tension on the push rods is not very tight. All help is welcomed. Thanks


Your procedure was correct as far as initial setup _for your current cam and valve train geometry_, and the motor liked it, but it wouldn't stay in adjustment. I think that right there is telling you that you need an adjustable valve train with locking nuts instead of the factory arrangement. If you're going to do that, then "if it were me" I'd go ahead and take the next step of replacing the factory 'bottle neck" rocker studs with the beefier 7/16" studs. Those bottleneck studs have been known to break off at the neck, especially with "rowdier than stock" cam and springs. Yeah, it's more expense and hassle, but then so is dealing with the aftermath of a broken rocker stud - which can put metal fragments into your oiling system and take out bearings "and stuff".

Bear


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## simmons68 (Dec 22, 2009)

*valve settings*

Hey guys, Yesterday I tightened all of my rockers down to 20lbs on my 68. The engine busted right off, and I ran it for 20 minutes to break in the camshaft. I killed it and went inside to let the headers cool down so I could change the oil and it wouldn't start when I came back. it would fire, but then die immediately. I checked my rockers and they were all tight. I'm stuck, any opinions welcomed.


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## freethinker (Nov 14, 2009)

simmons68 said:


> Hey guys, Yesterday I tightened all of my rockers down to 20lbs on my 68. The engine busted right off, and I ran it for 20 minutes to break in the camshaft. I killed it and went inside to let the headers cool down so I could change the oil and it wouldn't start when I came back. it would fire, but then die immediately. I checked my rockers and they were all tight. I'm stuck, any opinions welcomed.



it sounds unrelated to valve adjustment.start checking for fuel and spark.


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## BearGFR (Aug 25, 2008)

simmons68 said:


> Hey guys, Yesterday I tightened all of my rockers down to 20lbs on my 68. The engine busted right off, and I ran it for 20 minutes to break in the camshaft. I killed it and went inside to let the headers cool down so I could change the oil and it wouldn't start when I came back. it would fire, but then die immediately. I checked my rockers and they were all tight. I'm stuck, any opinions welcomed.


When my 69 does that, it's out of gas 

Bear


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## Instg8ter (Sep 28, 2010)

try changing your fuel filter and cutting one of those clear inlines (got a 5 pack for like 20.00) in on the frame rail before the pump, you can see if the get dirty and will save money if you are running banjo line with a Good one (40.00 each)up top. sounds like if you had it drained back for engine out the lines dried out and you sucked all the debris from the tank screen back up on re-start.


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