# 1968 GTO Convertible Barn/Basement Restoration



## RamRod4 (Mar 28, 2016)

1st post here and new to the forum.

Background: My Dad has owned his 1969 liberty blue/white convertible since he was 17 (first car) and it was something I grew up with. Helped him restore it when I was younger and have always wanted one. Recently a long time friend of my Dad let him know the time came to sell his 1968 verdoro convertible. I jumped on the opportunity and it is now sitting in my garage :grin2:

The car had sat in a barn since 1980 when it was taken off the road due to a blown engine. It was bought by my fathers friend in the early 80's. He stored it in another barn until about 2 years ago.  He managed to strip it and get the body and frame sandblasted but life got in the way and he never finished the project.

The car is 100% numbers matching except for the block which is correctly dated but incorrect to my specific car. The original block must have been a total loss. It is a standard 400 4-barrel 4-speed car with hide-away headlights, rally wheels, rally cluster, and a few other desirable options.

As it sits, the car is completely disassembled and all parts have been organized in boxes. Luckily, the guy I bought it from was the only one to touch it during the tear down and has kept all the parts and organized them accordingly.

I will be using this thread to document my progress and look for advice/suggestions since this is my first restoration project and I am starting from scratch with a complete frame-off restoration. Thankfully, I have my dad's complete car to use as a reference during the process.

Stored in a basement for the last 2 years. Previously in a barn for majority of it's life


Hauling home the frame and body




Main engine components


Hoping to be as nice as my old man's someday


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## rickmpontiac (Jul 31, 2015)

Welcome to the forum. Good luck with the project. Patience and perseverance is all it takes, oh and a boat load of money.


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## Sammuzzu1 (Mar 22, 2016)

Welcome to the Forum. I am sure your Goat will be sweet when you finish it.


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## RamRod4 (Mar 28, 2016)

rickmpontiac said:


> Welcome to the forum. Good luck with the project. Patience and perseverance is all it takes, oh and a boat load of money.





Sammuzzu1 said:


> Welcome to the Forum. I am sure your Goat will be sweet when you finish it.


Thanks guys. Trying to figure out which route to take for quarter panel replacement at the moment. I am no stranger to fabrication and welding as I do it for my day job and with my rock crawling hobby, but the body work aspect is new to me. Looks like I need quarter skins and outer wheelhouses. The decision is whether or not to farm it out to a body work guy or do the sheet metal/paint prep work myself and just send it out for paint.

Leaning towards having a trusted local body shop do the work for me. They finished another local goat recently and have done very nice work for my family in the past.


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## Rukee (Feb 8, 2007)

Welcome to the forums! :cheers 

Boy, it looks like a lot of work there, do you have a timeline as when you want to start/finish??


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## RamRod4 (Mar 28, 2016)

Rukee said:


> Welcome to the forums! :cheers
> 
> Boy, it looks like a lot of work there, do you have a timeline as when you want to start/finish??


Time and space are not the issue as I'm still young (26 next week), have no kids, an understanding wife, and a 3 bay garage to work in.

The timeline will be driven by money. I work a second job selling and repairing trailers for a family friend's business. That supplies my side money to fund my projects. Once the body work and paint are done I can really dig into the restore myself. I will be having the block checked out and the bottom end put together but will finish the motor myself. All the running gear, axle, suspension, etc will be tackled in my garage. Going to refinish and restore as many of the individual parts and trimmings as possible.


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## RamRod4 (Mar 28, 2016)

Here are some pics of the quarters, cowl, and drivers floor board. I will be repairing the floorboard and cowl but im still undecided about the quarters. Any opjnions on how much should be replaced? Whole quarter skin? Wheel arch patch and lower rear patch? Outer wheelhouse?

Calling around for some opinioms from some buddies and local shops in the meantime.

Passenger






Driver






Cowl


Driver's Floorboard


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## Doug68gto (Mar 8, 2016)

I'm in process of doing a 68 gto convertible also . One of the first thing I noticed was the lack of support on your body. Once you take it off frame and doors off the whole body on a convertible it has no support and want to bend/ fold. Not sure but I would weld in some supports but might be to late. I'm not a body man and not sure what you do at this point but I think the PO caused you a lot of problems down the road lining up gaps and doors. best luck Doug


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## Doug68gto (Mar 8, 2016)

I just want add one more thing, please talk to some body guys before spending a lot on sheet metal. I hope some of the body guys jump in here and give you some good but tough decision . I have seen worst fixed but a base 68 gto thats tough with no real ties to family might be hard .to swallow. I'm not the one to say but I'm sure there are folks on here that know what you should do. And yes it would be a great learning expirence but at what cost? I hope I don't come off as a jerk. Best luck to you and if you go forward looking forward to see progress. Doug


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## Doug68gto (Mar 8, 2016)

Ramrod4 any updates on body shops? I see no one has comments on this. I check in at least once a week and worried this forum is dying? Very little acctivity on any threads.


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## RamRod4 (Mar 28, 2016)

Doug68gto said:


> Ramrod4 any updates on body shops? I see no one has comments on this. I check in at least once a week and worried this forum is dying? Very little acctivity on any threads.


I just saw all of your posts. I wasn't receiving any email notifications for some reason.

The GTO will be a long term project. I realize there is quite a bit of body work involved but this was never meant to be a concours-level restoration. I will be having a local body shop do the sheet metal and prep work for me. 

Otherwise, I have every original part. It is a factory AC/power top car. Just because it is a base model does not make it unworthy of a restoration. I bought it to keep me busy for the next few years and it shouldnt have a problem doing so haha.


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## Doug68gto (Mar 8, 2016)

Looking forward to your progress and really wish you luck. I am still concerned with the doors off and I would think at some point off frame with out braces on but I am by no means an expert . We will surely talk more as we both have the same cars with same options, color except mine is an automatic . I hope to have mine on road this summer. Take care Doug


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## RamRod4 (Mar 28, 2016)

The body has sat on a dolly that supported it evenly where the main frame rails wouldve run. It is fairly sturdy. I'm not sure if youve ever moved just the body but it does not seem to have much movement. We loaded it into my trailer by hand. Keep in mind there are no interior pieces whatsoever so the weight it needs to support is just the weight of the sheetmetal itself. As I said before, I'm not looking for a concours-level restoration. I would like the door gaps to be as nice as possible but this was never meant to be a Barrett Jackson car. I plan on driving it and enjoying it.


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## Doug68gto (Mar 8, 2016)

I am doing the same type of build and understand what you are looking to do. Just watch the wallet because a car like yours can get out of control and you get to a point where there is no going back but you are just spending crazy money. I have worked with cars off frames and to be honest I have never seen a convertible with doors off with out braces welded in. This could alone cost tons of money to get your door to even fit or close. And again I'm happy to see what you are doing just want you to be careful before you spend . I'm sure a good body shop can help and the best advice on them is see work they have done. If they give you a fixed price ( not one by hour) I would be very Leary. You just never know what's around the corner. Let's stay in touch and again best luck. Doug


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## RamRod4 (Mar 28, 2016)

I understand the concern and appreciate the advice. I come from a family of car guys with multiple restorations under their belts. We know quite a few people in the area and favors are often traded. I'm quite aware of the money aspect and thats why this is going to be something I complete over the next 2-3 years. I got in contact with the guy who my Dad used to do the body work and paint on his GTO. I will be using him and his advice for the body work and paint since he specialized in GM restorations.

First thing on the list is to get the frame and suspension complete. Then rebuild the motor and trans. That way I have a full rolling chassis to set the body on. At that point I will take it in for the body work so that they can cut out the quarters with the body on the frame to prevent any tweaking of the body. The body will be removed and painted, then re-installed on the frame for me to put the interior back in it and finish the rest of the car.

This plan may change as I go, but from the people I've talked to recently, that seems like the standard procedure.


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## Nightshade 68 HO (Mar 11, 2014)

The only way to eat an elephant is to eat one small piece at a time. I was 26 when I bought my 68 hardtop and spent the next 16 years finding parts (mine was a shell) rebuilding the interior, restoring the chassis and buying a house and upgrading the garage....It can be done just takes time. def. get those door braces for the car and put them in...

Good luck!

Anthony


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## devildawg (Apr 27, 2012)

Check out Squids Fab shop for very detailed pictures of the extensive fabrication work he did for rust repair of the same areas it looks like you'll be dealing with. Although his isn't the same year it may be a valuable resource for you much as it was for my project.
Keep the pictures coming and best of luck with the project.


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## RamRod4 (Mar 28, 2016)

devildawg said:


> Check out Squids Fab shop for very detailed pictures of the extensive fabrication work he did for rust repair of the same areas it looks like you'll be dealing with. Although his isn't the same year it may be a valuable resource for you much as it was for my project.
> Keep the pictures coming and best of luck with the project.


:thumbsup:

Thanks


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## BearGFR (Aug 25, 2008)

I'm concerned about the 'body tweaking' too, but as long as the body has not been off the frame, it might be ok so far. DON'T separate them without welding in some bracing to support the cowl, door gaps, etc.
Body work: It can be learned and actually, you're in a good position to do so since you have a good place to work and plenty of time. Do yourself a favor and get a copy of the "Paintucation" videos (full set) and study them - more than once - and continue to review them as you work. You'll find that each time you watch them, you'll notice something you missed before just because you didn't realize it was important at the time. I did 100% of the paint and body work on my car (including replacing a full quarter panel), and I had exactly zero previous experience or training. You already have a huge head start since you already know how to weld. Quality body work from a shop is hideously expensive - mostly because it's all time and labor - and you're basically paying them to care as much about your car as you do.










Bear


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## Doug68gto (Mar 8, 2016)

Bear I agree with you but what I can see and what he has said that body has been moved all over off frame. I have never seen that done with a convertible and believe he is going to have major problem due to the rust wreaking body and no bracing. At minimum he going to have many many many hours of work that could have been eliminated. The PO kind of screwed him not bracing this car but I do wish him luck and look forward to build. Doug


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## Doug68gto (Mar 8, 2016)

Any updates ?


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## RamRod4 (Mar 28, 2016)

Sorry for the long delay in updates. I have been prepping to build a new house and shop. I did, however, send all of my suspension and undercarriage parts to a co-worker for sandblasting. Planning to shoot the frame and undercarriage in Chassis Saver in the coming weeks. Pics and updates will follow.


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## RamRod4 (Mar 28, 2016)

Back from the dead!

New baby is here and now I need to get this chassis rolling so that I can transport it all to the new house and shop in a few months. 

As of right now, I plan to take the suspension parts, pulleys, and other misc. undercarriage/underhood parts in for zinc blasting tonight. I do, however, need opinions on frame painting. I chose to go with chassis saver and already have it in my possession. I plan to paint the frame in my spray booth at work so that aspect is covered, but I'm curious about cleanup prior to painting. The frame was primered years ago and is still in good shape, but there are a few light spots of surface rust. How do you gentlemen suppose I go about cleaning it up? Light wire wheel/scotch brite on the surface rusted areas and a rattle can primer to cover those spots? I'd prefer not to have the frame blasted again if I don't have to. 

Any input is appreciated.


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## RamRod4 (Mar 28, 2016)

Finally some progress on the car. I was able to get the body supports welded in and the body supported above the frame.





















This weekend I prepped the frame for paint by pressure washing and de-greasing. I sprayed chassis saver on the frame and all suspension parts.
















































Next step is acquiring a body mount/hardware kit, a full hardware kit for the car, and to reassemble the suspension. I plan to temporarily mount the body on the rolling chassis with the new body mount kit. The car will then be taken to my grandfathers garage while I build a new house and shop so the project will take a backseat to the house project for a while.


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## mainegoat68 (May 5, 2011)

Wow, quite a project. You're doing it right. At my age, I just couldn't take on a project like that. My 68 coupe is due back from the paint man any week now. By the way, I have the exact twin to your Silverado.


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## RamRod4 (Mar 28, 2016)

mainegoat68 said:


> Wow, quite a project. You're doing it right. At my age, I just couldn't take on a project like that. My 68 coupe is due back from the paint man any week now. By the way, I have the exact twin to your Silverado.


Thanks! I'm still a young buck, generally speaking, so this project hasn't intimidated me yet haha.

I love these trucks. The 6.0 gasser does what I need it to for hauling cars and my crawler. Hope yours has treated you well too.


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## RamRod4 (Mar 28, 2016)

Just ordered a full set of Moog control arm bushings for the front and rear. Upper and lower balljoints are being sourced from my buddy in New Jersey with AB&S Warehouse. Awesome supplier of name brand auto parts. 

Looking forward to having a rolling chassis


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## mainegoat68 (May 5, 2011)

I'm stopping by tomorrow to visit my 68 at the paint shop. Haven't seen it since early November. I heard it's in final primer and being block sanded. The guy kept it as a winter "spare time project", and now wants to finish it up. I'll say hi, look it over, and drop a couple grand down. My Silverado has been a great truck, 156,000 and going strong.


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## RamRod4 (Mar 28, 2016)

Hopefully all goes well. My dad was in a similar situation with a body/paint guy that we knew through the grapevine and it took him 2 years to finish the car. Sounds like you're schedule is working out well though.


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