# dyno app



## DeuceDaProdeuca (Jul 15, 2009)

I have the dyno app for phone. I've seen videos on youtube showing their accuracy. I last an my GTO at the track with a 13.1 last year. The temp was in the upper 90's and I was unknowingly suffering massive drivetrain loss due to rear driver side half shaft coming loose from the differential. I tightened them last night and used the dyno app. It was 99 degrees at 9:30 pm. The only changes made to my GTO since my 13.1 run is I have a dual disc clutch, I pinched the rear springs lowering it 1/4", I used 91 pump gas rather than 100 racing fuel, I used z rated radials inead of dot drags (you would think I'd be slower with pump gas and radials) and I tightened the half shaft bolts and changed diff oil. I ran a 12.13 @ 110. Is it possible to have improved a full second just from the corrections I made? My mods banshee ram air hood, JBA headers, 25% underdrive pulley, dual disc clutch, short throw shifter, Borla exhaust, Predator III program, K&N filter and intake.:confused


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## AlaGreyGoat (Jul 6, 2006)

I can't see a 12.13 time with your mods, especially on street tires. Maybe a 13.0

Larry


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## DeuceDaProdeuca (Jul 15, 2009)

It is what it is. Do you have the dyno app on your phone to post the response I was looking for? Or do you have experience or knowledge of the half shaft bolts coming lose on moded GTO's? Because you seemed to have not answered any of my questions, but rather seem to want to doubt my cars ability. You also underestimate the capacity a ram air hood adds to the outcome. I ran a 13.1 with rear end problems which explains why I ran a 12.77 after I replaced my first set of axles BEFORE running a 13.1. My question is for those who have the dyno app on their iPhone or Blackberry Storm and maybe those who have had to tighten their half shaft bolts and noticed an improvement. No disrespect, but I'm not here for a pissing match. If your GTO is better/faster, much respect. If not, that's fine. I still respect your GTO for what it is.


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## Poncho Dan (Jun 30, 2009)

What, exactly, is a dyno app?


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## DeuceDaProdeuca (Jul 15, 2009)

If you have an iphone or a blackberry storm, you can download a VERY ACCURATE application that allows you to measure 0-60, 1/4 mile, trapspeed, lateral g's, HP at the crank, approximate HP at the week, it has live graph showing realtime speed, hp and g's. It utilizes the phones accelerometer. Go to dynolicious.com for info. It costs $12.99 and works great. Same hundreds! It was tested against the $400 kit and the track infrared, and its accurate.


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## DeuceDaProdeuca (Jul 15, 2009)

If you don't have an iphone or storm, you can use an itouch. I'm sure someone in your home has one.


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## AlaGreyGoat (Jul 6, 2006)

No disrespect, either, but you asked the question:

I ran a 12.13 @ 110. Is it possible to have improved a full second just from the corrections I made?

I gave an honest answer, that I still stand by. It may not be the response you was looking for, but it is what it is.

I may underestimate the capacity a ram air hood, but to get a 12.13 ET with your listed mods, it would have to 
give 5-7 psi BOOST. The banshee ram air hood only lets some air in and a little out of the engine bay.
If that was so good, removing the hood completely should get you in the 9's.

Larry


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## DeuceDaProdeuca (Jul 15, 2009)

AlaGreyGoat said:


> No disrespect, either, but you asked the question:
> 
> I ran a 12.13 @ 110. Is it possible to have improved a full second just from the corrections I made?
> 
> ...


I knew it! (Larry), I do appreciate your response, but look at my avatar if it posted yet. I don't have the stock hood with scoops that let air into the engine bay. I have a 25% lighter REAL ram-air hood with heat extractors that actually forces air into the engine at a higher compression. Taking the hood off doesn't do the same thing and it creates drag. Its like a Bose speaker vs a big speaker without the cover. Also, look up what a 25% pulley does and what a programmer does to increase power. And I did run a 12.77 once, and that was before I made a couple of mods. I just couldn't reproduce it because I had half shaft problems I was unaware of. So I think either I worded my question wrong, or you misunderstood me. My question is, if I ran a 13.1 with problems and fewer mods, is it possible my half shaft slowed me down THAT much? When I first bought the GTO, I had chrome wheels 10' wide in the back. I ran a 14.5 on stickies. When I put the stocks back on, I ran a 13.3, so I know driveline can make a big difference.


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## DeuceDaProdeuca (Jul 15, 2009)

True ram-air (what I have) is better than a hood off for the same reasons an X-pipe is better than a straight pipe. A vortex pushes air at a higher rate of speed.


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## svede1212 (Nov 1, 2005)

the only drive train loss you'd have with the half shaft is if it came off and the car didn't move. the "ram air" thing... it adds squat. i'm not sure where you got your information but there's a ton of info on "ram air" and it doesn't happen at car speeds with hoods. there's lots of GTOs with Banshee hoods and they hold no mystical powers. there's no way you could run a 12.1 with what you have either so the app flatly lacks credibility.


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## #1judge (Mar 24, 2006)

Mustang Dyno-----------474 RWHP


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## LOWET (Oct 21, 2007)

DeuceDaProdeuca said:


> If you don't have an iphone or storm, you can use an itouch. I'm sure someone in your home has one.


You can also try.:seeya

DAVES CAR MATH: 1/4 MILE HP CALCULATOR


DAVES CAR MATH: GEARING CALCULATOR


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## LOWET (Oct 21, 2007)

DeuceDaProdeuca said:


> I have the dyno app for phone. I've seen videos on youtube showing their accuracy. I last an my GTO at the track with a 13.1 last year. The temp was in the upper 90's and I was unknowingly suffering massive drivetrain loss due to rear driver side half shaft coming loose from the differential. I tightened them last night and used the dyno app. It was 99 degrees at 9:30 pm. The only changes made to my GTO since my 13.1 run is I have a dual disc clutch, I pinched the rear springs lowering it 1/4", I used 91 pump gas rather than 100 racing fuel, I used z rated radials inead of dot drags (you would think I'd be slower with pump gas and radials) and I tightened the half shaft bolts and changed diff oil. I ran a 12.13 @ 110. Is it possible to have improved a full second just from the corrections I made? My mods banshee ram air hood, JBA headers, 25% underdrive pulley, dual disc clutch, short throw shifter, Borla exhaust, Predator III program, K&N filter and intake.:confused



13.1 and a few tiny adjustments netted you a 12.1 are you sure you are talking about 1/4 mile, or was it a 1/8th mile run.

*WAIT A MINUTE*. YOU USED A DYNO APPLICATION. for a 12.1!!!!!!!!!!!

THAT'S FUNNY

WITHOUT A DOUBT. you will need much more then what your car has now to reach that number .


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## LOWET (Oct 21, 2007)

DeuceDaProdeuca said:


> True ram-air (what I have) is better than a hood off for the same reasons an X-pipe is better than a straight pipe. A vortex pushes air at a higher rate of speed.


A Ram Air hood will NOT = a RAM AIR INTAKE. You might have a Hood designed for Ram Air but if you don't have the filter system [ you don't ] to make it function like one. YOU DON"T HAVE RAM AIR


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## DeuceDaProdeuca (Jul 15, 2009)

Haters will hate. I can respect credible feedback, but yours is NOT credible. Its your word vs every ram-air user on the planet, weather its the ram-air intake set up at the front clip, or firebird hood. They've been proven already. And I googled drivetrain loss due to loose half shafts and you do lose significant power to the wheels when there's play at launch. It causes massive wheel hop. In saying that, I don't see how YOU pulled off a 12.3 on a 5.7 and the only significant change you was 3:91 gears. Everything else is drivetrain and won't affect your 1/4th unless the car doesn't move according to you...right? Where's your youtube video located? I'm not saying you didn't. I'm just using your logic. Also, I witnessed a guy with the same basic set-up as mine pull off a 12.2, and a bone stock A4 with DR's pull a 13 flat here at Sac raceway. Now that being said, will someone who doesn't have a gripe with a car being faster then theirs please respond! I can accept if a 12.13 may be a little off, but answer me with logic. Also, like I said, I ran a 12.77 AT THE TRACK before a couple upgrades. I just got slower before the upgrades due to the half shaft problem, by more than .3 of a second, so...


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## DeuceDaProdeuca (Jul 15, 2009)

LOWET said:


> A Ram Air hood will NOT = a RAM AIR INTAKE. You might have a Hood designed for Ram Air but if you don't have the filter system [ you don't ] to make it function like one. YOU DON"T HAVE RAM AIR


What makes you think I don't have the proper intake set-up? My filter system is not stock and is designed to work in conjunction with the ram air hood.


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## DeuceDaProdeuca (Jul 15, 2009)

Also, yes. A dyno app for the iphone & blackberry storm. Type it in on youtube. It was proven accurate. It uses the accelerometer on the phone. Don't knock it just because you don't know about it. Go to dynolicious.com


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## LOWET (Oct 21, 2007)

DeuceDaProdeuca said:


> What makes you think I don't have the proper intake set-up? My filter system is not stock and is designed to work in conjunction with the ram air hood.


You have a K&N Filter system. K&N and other CAI makers place their air filters in the same location as a completely stock unit and they draw air from the same stock location. They are on the Drivers side of the engine bay directly behind the head light. What you have is known as a C.A.I. Cold Air Intake but not a RAM AIR System


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## DeuceDaProdeuca (Jul 15, 2009)

And that's why I left this site and went to the LS2 forum for a while. Too many Juvenile piss contests with immature GTO owners who would like to think they have the best set up rather than answer and understand a simple question. So far, not one response from anyone who either have the dynolicious app, nor problems with loose half shafts. A bunch of mods doesn't mean faster. Sometimes it makes your car run like ****.


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## LOWET (Oct 21, 2007)

DeuceDaProdeuca said:


> Also, yes. A dyno app for the iphone & blackberry storm. Type it in on youtube. It was proven accurate. It uses the accelerometer on the phone. Don't knock it just because you don't know about it. Go to dynolicious.com


I can do the samething using my Dash Hawk but I would never use it and claim it as my accurate 1/4 mile time.

Actually I can do the same thing using my GPS. Just don't think that getting timing and speed info from a Space Object a few hundred miles away from me can be used as honest 1/4 mile times.

Have a good night.


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## LOWET (Oct 21, 2007)

DeuceDaProdeuca said:


> And that's why I left this site and went to the LS2 forum for a while. Too many Juvenile piss contests with immature GTO owners who would like to think they have the best set up rather than answer and understand a simple question. So far, not one response from anyone who either have the dynolicious app, nor problems with loose half shafts. A bunch of mods doesn't mean faster. Sometimes it makes your car run like ****.



As for me. I don't see ANYONE on here claiming they have the best set up. A lot of us have simular go fast goodies but none of us have the exact same set up or claim to be KING OF THE HILL.
You can get 1/4 times, 0-60 times, 1/8th and 1000ft times from a Dyno App or from other items like a Mustang Dyno 1/4 mile simulation run and even from a DASH Hawk. Just don't know of anyone who claims that these are their actual numbers. You will only get true times at the track.

Me, my car has never been at the track and I can only guess at what it might do. I won't post a simulation run or do a down load from my Dash Hawk and post it as my times.

Sorry if it sounds like I am busting your B*lls because I am not.


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## DeuceDaProdeuca (Jul 15, 2009)

LOWET said:


> You have a K&N Filter system. K&N and other CAI makers place their air filters in the same location as a completely stock unit and they draw air from the same stock location. They are on the Drivers side of the engine bay directly behind the head light. What you have is known as a C.A.I. Cold Air Intake but not a RAM AIR System


The location of the filter system is meaningless as long as you have a channel of air and the engine sucking in air from that channel. Physics proves that, along with the testing done by independent parties using these set-ups. Here's a test you can do at home. Get a regular straw, and a crazy straw of the same diameter. Attach them each to a large medicine syringe using a y-joint made up of a cut up straw taped together. Which straw will pump out water faster? Are you assuming the shorter straw with a straight path? If so, you're wrong. When already full, the speed is the same. The same laws of physics apply to air.


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## DeuceDaProdeuca (Jul 15, 2009)

Another example. Take a water hose with a nozzle that's long enough to go around to your driveway. Turn the water on but don't spray it. Take another water hose that's very short, maybe less than half the length and point it straight from the water source. Turn that one on but don't spray it. Go on and twist and turn the long hose as much as your heart desires without pinching it. Guess what! They both spray on demand! No lag in force nor speed!


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## DeuceDaProdeuca (Jul 15, 2009)

LOWET said:


> As for me. I don't see ANYONE on here claiming they have the best set up. A lot of us have simular go fast goodies but none of us have the exact same set up or claim to be KING OF THE HILL.
> You can get 1/4 times, 0-60 times, 1/8th and 1000ft times from a Dyno App or from other items like a Mustang Dyno 1/4 mile simulation run and even from a DASH Hawk. Just don't know of anyone who claims that these are their actual numbers. You will only get true times at the track.
> 
> Me, my car has never been at the track and I can only guess at what it might do. I won't post a simulation run or do a down load from my Dash Hawk and post it as my times.
> ...


I can respect that. Me, have a Timberland® shoebox with over 600 timeslips to my credit. The dunno app being tested by (I think Road and Track) was compared to the tracks infrared system. When mounted correctly, it was off by like .01, but still more accurate than the bulky $350 systems sold in magazines..


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## DeuceDaProdeuca (Jul 15, 2009)

Ok. Go to youtube. Type in dynolicious. Its Garage419 that did the compare with the G-tech pro vs the dynolicious phone app. Check it out.


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## LOWET (Oct 21, 2007)

DeuceDaProdeuca said:


> The location of the filter system is meaningless as long as you have a channel of air and the engine sucking in air from that channel. Physics proves that, along with the testing done by independent parties using these set-ups. Here's a test you can do at home. Get a regular straw, and a crazy straw of the same diameter. Attach them each to a large medicine syringe using a y-joint made up of a cut up straw taped together. Which straw will pump out water faster? Are you assuming the shorter straw with a straight path? If so, you're wrong. When already full, the speed is the same. The same laws of physics apply to air.



Please, don't try to give us an education about Physics. Everyone already knows that the area that our K&N , AEM and most other CAI units get air from is not optimal. Where these filters are located will not make a difference what hood you have. These filters are in an area where clean air will be minimal at best and no air will be FORCED into the system from that section. it will be SUCKED IN.

The Banshee hood is a nice item but as far as forcing cooler outside air to our CAI filters, its a joke. It will bring air into our engine bay [ same as the stock hood ] and place the outside air up and over the engine itself. It will not change the direction of incoming air and direct it to a filter behind a headlight. To call something RAM AIR, you will need a filter that is directly in the path of the hood scoop and sealed from sucking in heated air from the engine bay, or if you have a filter directly in contact with space between the hood gap where you can draw in cooler air that is unaffected from heated engine compartment air. Anything less is not ram air.


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## DeuceDaProdeuca (Jul 15, 2009)

LOWET said:


> Please, don't try to give us an education about Physics. Everyone already knows that the area that our K&N , AEM and most other CAI units get air from is not optimal. Where these filters are located will not make a difference what hood you have. These filters are in an area where clean air will be minimal at best and no air will be FORCED into the system from that section. it will be SUCKED IN.
> 
> The Banshee hood is a nice item but as far as forcing cooler outside air to our CAI filters, its a joke. It will bring air into our engine bay [ same as the stock hood ] and place the outside air up and over the engine itself. It will not change the direction of incoming air and direct it to a filter behind a headlight. To call something RAM AIR, you will need a filter that is directly in the path of the hood scoop and sealed from sucking in heated air from the engine bay, or if you have a filter directly in contact with space between the hood gap where you can draw in cooler air that is unaffected from heated engine compartment air. Anything less is not ram air.


I will inform Einstein and Newton that you said they're wrong. But really, I can tell you OBVIOUSLY don't know how the Banshee Ram-air hood is designed. IT DOESN'T LET AIR IN THE ENGINE BAY LIKE THE STOCK HOOD! The air enters the nostrils, through a tube that goes directly into the filter and not into the engine bay like you said. Any half-wit will seal any openings in the filter housing with OSH or Home Depot sealing materials. So be honest. You never looked under a. Banshee ram-air hood. You told me the only way ram-air hoods work, and guess what! Thank you for proving my point! I will tell the people at Banshee not to sweat it because you confirmed their design correct. PS, I'm a physics nerd. Please lose the ignorance.


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## DeuceDaProdeuca (Jul 15, 2009)

LMAO @ ignorance =D


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## AlaGreyGoat (Jul 6, 2006)

Quote:
"I had chrome wheels 10' wide in the back. I ran a 14.5 on stickies. When I put the stocks back on, I ran a 13.3, so I know driveline
can make a big difference."

Yes, reducing the reciprocating weight will gain HP. That's why racers pay BIG bucks for carbon fiber drive line part, rotors
and lightweight forged and magnesium wheels.
It also reduces overall weight. Approx 100 lb weight reduction will net about .1 sec ET.

Quote:
"I have a 25% lighter REAL ram-air hood with heat extractors that actually forces air into the engine at a higher compression."

"The location of the filter system is meaningless as long as you have a channel of air and the engine sucking in air from that channel."

If it's true Ram Air it will be forced into the intake, not sucked in. The hole in the hood is NEAR the air filter, but NOT connected. If you
had piping to the intake, maybe some advantage might prevail, if there was any pressure in the first place (and there won't be).
Look at the curve of the hood and the placement and height of the scoops. The air is being directed over the scoops, leaving
a low pressure area at the inlet. If they were at the very front edge of the hood, or mounted about 10 inches above the hood line, 
they could possibly create a very small pressure at a high speed.
I have an old G-Tech pro, and is accurate as long as you use it correctly (controlled, consistent enviroment). The newer DashHawk
are much better. The accelerometer(s) on these are MUCH better than the iPhone. If you read the forums on dynolicious.com,
they tell about filtering for the NOISY accelerometer in the iPhone.

I agree with svede that the half shafts bolts being loose will not cause any loss. If they cause a vibration and you let off the gas,
you caused the loss, not the half shaft. If they break, well yeah, the will be some loss!

As far as 25% underdrive pully, you're only slowing down the P/S pump, alternator and water pump, not stopping them. The parasitic
losses are still there, just very slightly less. There is very little FREE HP.
As some racers put it: MONEY=HORSEPOWER=MONEY

Larry


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## DeuceDaProdeuca (Jul 15, 2009)

I think i'll stick with the LS2 forum where people don't have to TRY and make themselves right. Like I said, any half wit will seal the air filter compartment to create a near vacuum. It costs pennies and takes minutes to do. Thus it actually rams air in the hood. As far as the curvature nonsense...WTF? Wow! Ok...NEXT! Dude. Its true ram-air. Leave it at that. I'm done. Here's a link 
GTO Banshee Ram Air Hood - PFYC


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## DeuceDaProdeuca (Jul 15, 2009)

Lastly, ANY lag in driveline cause a loss of power.
There IS a hose leading from where the air enters from the hood DIRECTLY into and under the actual filter.
You don't know WTF you're talking about
$1000 = .1 second shaved is a GENERAL rule of thumb
I still don't see how YOUR setup gets you a 12.3
I have the blackberry storm who eliminated the bugs by the program in the iphone and you can type in dinolicious on youtube where they prove it better than the tech pro
Go debate with someone you're smarter than. Like maybe...George Bush. Sorry, but that whole "curvature of the hood" thing...priceless. I mean "brainless". I'm about to post. Youtube link for you.


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## DeuceDaProdeuca (Jul 15, 2009)

If you debate this, then I KNOW you're full of ****. I will post a link in regards to loose halfshaft/bolts next. I'm offering proof to what I'm saying. You're just talking ****


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## AlaGreyGoat (Jul 6, 2006)

Who's TRYING to make themselves right??

LOL


Larry


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## DeuceDaProdeuca (Jul 15, 2009)

I can go line for line and prove you wrong by posting links. Can you prove ANYTHING you stated? No, because you know not what you speak.

Here's one about loose half shaft bolts. Read the whole thing. Its short and has pictures to keep you interested.

2005 Ford GT: Half-Hearted Half Shafts? | Long-Term Road Tests Blog on Edmunds' Inside Line


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## AlaGreyGoat (Jul 6, 2006)

Quote:
"Several reports of these bolts backing out, and the half shaft sliding out of the transaxle.
BTW, failure of the bolts eventually results in a loss of drive power to the rear wheels."

LOSS OF DRIVE POWER TO THE REAR WHEELS = DEAD IN THE WATER
Your own links proves us right!
Also, who made the drag video? Wouldn't happen to be the iPhone software people was it??
Surely not biased! Based on ONE RUN, and the G Tech was VERY close to the same reading.

Go on back to the other forums...Maybe they'll believe you...I won't...
Bye!
LOL

Larry


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## DeuceDaProdeuca (Jul 15, 2009)

Here's a link from THIS forum in regards to mods vs track times on LS1's! Not even an LS2. LS'1's!
If you pay attention, he DOGS the iPhone and is sponsored by the producers of Death Race. There are several other videos showing the compare. 
Bolts backing out causing loose half shafts cause drive LOSS. It doesn't mean COMPLETE LOSS. Say no to stupidity and ignorance. America did when they voted for Obama. Get on the boat.
When half shaft bolts back out, it causes the half shaft to come loose and eventually break if not corrected. This happened to me already. The symptoms are, you hear a knock upon take-off. It sounds like a brick in the trunk. Lie to yourself until your face turns blue. Who cares. I work 4 days a month. I can do this all night.

http://www.gtoforum.com/f2/1-4-times-vs-mods-18352/


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## DeuceDaProdeuca (Jul 15, 2009)

And I STILL don't see how YOU can talk about mods vs track times. The only thing you have putting you in the 12's are the 3:91's! The Hotchkis and Peddlers do minimal in a straight line run! Pinching springs are equally as effective. And they state in the video that SEVERAL runs were made with the same results. Pay attention. I thought one of your post said you have 3:91 gears. I don't see it in your description. The only thing you have I don't are wider wheels in the back. I on the other hand have quite a few mods you don't have, or at least you didn't list them, yet didn't you claim to run a 12.3? Hypocrite!


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## DeuceDaProdeuca (Jul 15, 2009)




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## svede1212 (Nov 1, 2005)

i love your comment "juvenile", and you're how old? not very old based on your wild twists of logic. my kid talks like you. if you go over on LS1GTO and post your logic in the tech or drag section you'll get a lot worse. they'll laugh you off the board or the thread will get closed.

as to being a physics junkie. how much boost do you think you get "ramming" as opposed to stock type intakes? the best "ram" systems (low on the hood isn't the best place either) only can claim 3 or so kPa more manifold pressure. that's less than half a pound at subsonic speeds. get rid of your subjective "app" and get a tuning suite or handheld that measures MAP so you can SEE your massive pressure. while you're at it get rid of the 90* bend in front of the TB as being a physics junkie you know that the bend causes a pressure drop due to an increase in effect intake length that oddly enough is about a 3 kPa pressure drop. a hood scoop is an ambient air intake at best.

wheel hop is still going to be there after you tighten your half shafts. the harmonics of the drive train AND suspension are the cause and i've spent 2 grand fighting it. 

being a very experienced drag racer (ahem) you know that a stock LS2 runs around 12.9-30.0 with a good DA. a 12.1 is about a 90 HP gain. show me some slips of yours or others with a time below 12.5 without more extensive mods than you have. (BTW trap speeds are the better indicator of power not ETs)

here's my app











man, all these sites have gone to the dogs after these cars got cheaper after hitting the aftermarket......


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## LOWET (Oct 21, 2007)

DeuceDaProdeuca said:


> I will inform Einstein and Newton that you said they're wrong. But really, I can tell you OBVIOUSLY don't know how the Banshee Ram-air hood is designed. IT DOESN'T LET AIR IN THE ENGINE BAY LIKE THE STOCK HOOD! The air enters the nostrils, through a tube that goes directly into the filter and not into the engine bay like you said. Any half-wit will seal any openings in the filter housing with OSH or Home Depot sealing materials. So be honest. You never looked under a. Banshee ram-air hood. You told me the only way ram-air hoods work, and guess what! Thank you for proving my point! I will tell the people at Banshee not to sweat it because you confirmed their design correct. PS, I'm a physics nerd. Please lose the ignorance.



If you had an Air Filter System like this one that directly connects to your hood scoops or snorkels sealing off hot air from the engine compartment 
drawing and placing air directly into your intake or if you have a unit like SVEDE has, you would be able to call it RAM AIR. 

DMS 2005-2006 Pontiac GTO LS2 Air Intake Kit - Dominant Motorsports


The phrase RAM AIR gets used way too often. There is a BIG differance in giving the name RAM AIR to something when in fact it is not TRUE RAM AIR.


A Banshee hood does have a tiny opening that will allow redirected air from the snorkel and have air enter the filter from the exact area as a stocker . It allows air to enter the small vented section of the radiator shroud by the coolant level check tube.The filter is still subjected to get most of its air from a heated engine compartment. 
Under most driving conditions the Banshee Hood will have little effect 
[ if any at all ] in gaining any HP as a true RAM AIR set up


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## Poncho Dan (Jun 30, 2009)

DeuceDaProdeuca said:


> I have the dyno app for phone.


This inherently states phail. How can you trust an accelerometer, especially one in some cell phone? Sounds like a B.S. kiddy toy to me.



DeuceDaProdeuca said:


> I think i'll stick with the LS2 forum where people don't have to TRY and make themselves right. Like I said, any half wit will seal the air filter compartment to create a near vacuum. It costs pennies and takes minutes to do. Thus it actually rams air in the hood. As far as the curvature nonsense...WTF? Wow! Ok...NEXT! Dude. Its true ram-air. Leave it at that. I'm done. Here's a link
> GTO Banshee Ram Air Hood - PFYC


What, is it too difficult to actually back you claims with factual information and proof, instead of simply making statements? Anyone with an even basic understanding of aerodynamics or fluid dynamics knows that "ram air" hoods could never be true air rams because of the initial shockwave and subsequent deadspace created by the front clip at high speeds. Those little openings in the hood would have to sit much higher in the air, away from the hood to do what you're claiming. So in essence, what you're describing does not add any pressure or less restriction at 160mph than it does at 45. In fact, its more effective _the slower you go_, which pretty much makes it a moot point. Its all looks, bro... nothing more than that.

This is true Ram Air:









This is not:










Enjoy the LS2 forum. Maybe people there won't say anything when you make outrageous claims without facts so as not to hurt your feelings or tarnish your image...


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## LOWET (Oct 21, 2007)

DeuceDaProdeuca said:


> Here's a link from THIS forum in regards to mods vs track times on LS1's! Not even an LS2. LS'1's!
> If you pay attention, he DOGS the iPhone and is sponsored by the producers of Death Race. There are several other videos showing the compare.
> Bolts backing out causing loose half shafts cause drive LOSS. It doesn't mean COMPLETE LOSS. Say no to stupidity and ignorance. America did when they voted for Obama. Get on the boat.
> When half shaft bolts back out, it causes the half shaft to come loose and eventually break if not corrected. This happened to me already. The symptoms are, you hear a knock upon take-off. It sounds like a brick in the trunk. Lie to yourself until your face turns blue. Who cares. I work 4 days a month. I can do this all night.
> ...





No way can someone accept a Cell Phone or IPOD down load as a accurate 1/4 timing device. You want a true time. Go to the track


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## Poncho Dan (Jun 30, 2009)

:lol: is this guy teh trollz or what?


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## keithtobi77 (Jan 2, 2009)

I'm going to have to agree with svede1212, Ram Air is not going to shave a second off your 1/4 mile time and if loose bolts on your half shaft were slowing you down, it would not have gone unnoticed, you'd have heard some noise. Now if you had a Supercharger I could see you doing a low 12 sec quarter.


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## GM4life (Mar 18, 2007)

Poncho Dan said:


> *Enjoy the LS2 forum*. Maybe people there won't say anything when you make outrageous claims without facts so as not to hurt your feelings or tarnish your image...


He haven't seen nothing yet.


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## svede1212 (Nov 1, 2005)

GM4life said:


> He haven't seen nothing yet.


that's a fact. they'll eat him up and spit him out...


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## LOWET (Oct 21, 2007)

DeuceDaProdeuca said:


> The location of the filter system is meaningless as long as you have a channel of air and the engine sucking in air from that channel. Physics proves that, along with the testing done by independent parties using these set-ups. Here's a test you can do at home. Get a regular straw, and a crazy straw of the same diameter. Attach them each to a large medicine syringe using a y-joint made up of a cut up straw taped together. Which straw will pump out water faster? Are you assuming the shorter straw with a straight path? If so, you're wrong. When already full, the speed is the same. The same laws of physics apply to air.




STRANGE LOGIC. you can use your straw test to explain flow but when it comes to air flow. I would rather have a larger volume of flowing Air instead of faster moving air, thus the principle of porting intakes, throttle bodies, heads and so on. This is done to increase the VOLUME [ amount ] of air.


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## LOWET (Oct 21, 2007)

DeuceDaProdeuca said:


> , have a Timberland® shoebox with over 600 timeslips to my credit.
> 
> 
> A SHOE BOX WITH OVER 600 TIME SLIPS TO YOUR CREDIT.
> ...


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## svede1212 (Nov 1, 2005)

hey physics kid. do this test. get a real logging setup. log your MAPs with your intake and then log with a straight setup. then come back and explain why the straight one has higher manifold pressures in defiance of your logic. lol


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## Poncho Dan (Jun 30, 2009)

LOWET said:


> This was my ride for most of that time. please notice a RAM AIR HOOD that put air directly into a pair of Holly 650 or 780 CFM twin pumper carbs .


YES! Somebody gets the concept!


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## DeuceDaProdeuca (Jul 15, 2009)

I see all the OLD GEEZERS and IDIOTS got together to combine their IQ's to that of a goat! 
1) I'm 35 and do well
2) I've posted links backing everything I claim. None of you have
3) you went from "its not ram-air" to "its not funny car style ram-air" (who the hell cares.my point is its still better than stock)
4) any idiot can post a timeslip that's not theirs. It only impresses other simpletons.
5) who cares how many decades ago you were racing. I'm here now! My point is...what's your point besides you have handicap parking at the track?
6) no one said pinching springs prevents wheel hop! I just said its a $10 fix that does the same thing as a $150 fix
7) I posted a link showing times/mods FROM SOME OF YOU from this site. Hypocrites!
8) in my straw analogy, I was proving a point about airflow, not the amount. But even so, faster air is still good. I do agree with wider is better, but that's not my point
9) did I cover all the stupid replies? Not likely. There were quit a few of them. But go on, entertain me further! I only work 4 days a month and I'm bored. Its a recession.
10) oh yeah! One more, I almost forgot dagnabbit (homage to the old geezer)! Its funny how a few of you also said half shaft bolts coming loose won't affect power, then I post a link from Edmund.com proving my point, just like I did all my other points, yet you still talk ****! Pure ignorance! I know, only wussies admit when their wrong. That's why half your marriages are in trouble or past that. 

See ya!


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## Poncho Dan (Jun 30, 2009)

DeuceDaProdeuca said:


> I see all the OLD GEEZERS and IDIOTS got together to combine their IQ's to that of a goat!
> 1) I'm 35 and do well


Wow, for a 35 year old, you sure do come off as a 15 year old with $800 saved up for a WRX...



> 2) I've posted links backing everything I claim. None of you have


You posted links to Youtube and PFYC. Not exactly sites with credibility.



> 3) you went from "its not ram-air" to "its not funny car style ram-air" (who the hell cares.my point is its still better than stock)


No. You obviously can't tell the difference, which unfortunately forever pigeon-holes you as a boy racer.



> ) who cares how many decades ago you were racing. I'm here now! My point is...what's your point besides you have handicap parking at the track?


I'm 25, ran my Goat today, and I can rock it better than you, who's probably either graying, balding, impotent or all three. (if you are indeed... 35 )



> 8) in my straw analogy, I was proving a point about airflow, not the amount. But even so, faster air is still good. I do agree with wider is better, but that's not my point


Volume is more important with a high displacement motor. High velocity implies restriction through some form of venturi effect.



> did I cover all the stupid replies? Not likely. There were quit a few of them. But go on, entertain me further! I only work 4 days a month and I'm bored. Its a recession.


I work zero days a month. And you're annoying. FYI... its a DEPRESSION (a Keynesian economist, are we?).



> oh yeah! One more, I almost forgot dagnabbit (homage to the old geezer)! Its funny how a few of you also said half shaft bolts coming loose won't affect power, then I post a link from Edmund.com proving my point, just like I did all my other points, yet you still talk ****! Pure ignorance! I know, only wussies admit when their wrong. That's why half your marriages are in trouble or past that.


Loose half shaft bolts are going to affect power as much as loose lug nuts. Just some vibration from not being properly tightened and therefore imbalanced. If you didn't notice the shaking, you were probably high.


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## DeuceDaProdeuca (Jul 15, 2009)

I'm back. Had work to do in my studio. I feel like the Great Gazoo visiting Bedrock! "Hello dum-dums!" LMAO... I give credit to most gto forum members. They UNDERSTOOD the question, didn't know the answer, and therefore didn't answer. UNDERSTAND THE QUESTION. You can't stop progress. Some of you still use phone booths and pagers! Do research on dynolicious, THEN comment. Before the dunno, they used a stopwatch, pencil, paper and formulas. Older isn't always better. Maybe accurate, but time consuming. If the phone app is off a tenth or so, it can be calibrated. Also, its still good for timing any car you're in between track days for those who claim to be the fastest. If you tell someone you're running 10's, don't be scared when they pull out their dyno app and take you on a back road and say "prove it". Not "show me your time slip"..."run your sh!# b!t€#!!!!!!


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## Poncho Dan (Jun 30, 2009)

I have Gran Turismo 4 for PS2, and it thinks the '04 GTO's top speed with 700 horse is 243mph. So, I suppose if I went twin turbo, I could go 243mph too.


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## AlaGreyGoat (Jul 6, 2006)

Poncho Dan said:


> I have Gran Turismo 4 for PS2, and it thinks the '04 GTO's top speed with 700 horse is 243mph. So, I suppose if I went twin turbo, I could go 243mph too.


Hi, Dan,
All you need to do is turn the tach to about 6500 RPM in 6th for 252 MPH.:rofl:

Larry


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## Poncho Dan (Jun 30, 2009)

GT4 didn't have any of the gear ratios right for the M6, but it had the rear diff right. I manually corrected them for fun.


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## DeuceDaProdeuca (Jul 15, 2009)

I will smoke you. You've never even ran at the track and my like are better than your talk. I'm 35 and probably look younger than you. I guarantee I'm physically superior to you and you'd never talk sh*t to me in person. I travel a lot. What city are you in? Bring your girl. She'll tell you if I'm impotent the net day. You probably don't work because your fagget ass sleeps in mommy's basement and a professional student. Now back to topic. No more talking **** unless you're willing to meet up. I'm tire of hearing your excuses for being proven wrong. For instance..."it may lose power, but not as much as if lug nuts were loose". Are you THAT fn stupid? Did you get your GED? We're not talking about lug nuts dum-dum. My evidence on youtube, etc. are far better than your barely gettin' pu**y ass talk. Go to the track and get some experience. I was born and raised in NY and live in California. I'm constantly in Las Vegas, Reno, and Portland/Springfield Oregon. IF YOU'RE EVER ANYWHERE IN ANY OF THESE STATS (Oregon, Nevada, California) hit me up. Let's see how tough you are when I'm looking down on you.


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## DeuceDaProdeuca (Jul 15, 2009)

You're on a GTO site talking about video games! I'm sorry. I take EVERYTHING back. I'm e-fighting with a person who gets meds and a check every month distributed by a house manager. I refuse to argue with retard. Respond if you want. I'm on a new thread now. Nothing you say is credible.


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## DeuceDaProdeuca (Jul 15, 2009)

To all THIS IS HOW YOU BUILD UP A GTO WITHOUT PUTTING ALL THAT SILLY SH** ON YOUR CAR AND OPENING UP THE ENGINE! 
What he did that I didn't do: 3200 torque converter, suspension bushings/dampness.
What I did that he didn't do: short throw shifter, banshe RAM-AIR HOOD, dual disc clutch.
He built up his car the same way I did, except I'm waiting until last to do the gears. I have an M6, so no torque converter needed. Notice, he didn't do heads and cam, 3:91 gears (although I will put mine on after my next dyno). I'm looking at you guys' mods and your track times. Either some of you are lying, didn't properly match mods together, or you just plain can't drive, because you don't need a supercharger or turbo to dip into the 11's. I have relatives in Sutter Creek who race professionally at Infineon. We run our whips. Trust me. 

Here's the link. Anyone who debates this is an idiot for real. Notice he doesn't have a bunch of rwhp! You guys are claiming 420-480 rwhp and can only accomplish mid 12's! 

2005 Pontiac GTO Exhaust Upgrade - Head Poncho, Pa - LS1 Performance Information


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## LOWET (Oct 21, 2007)

DeuceDaProdeuca said:


> I will smoke you.
> 
> I guarantee I'm physically superior to you and you'd never talk sh*t to me in person.
> 
> ...


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## LOWET (Oct 21, 2007)

DeuceDaProdeuca said:


> I travel a lot.
> 
> What city are you in?
> 
> ...


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## svede1212 (Nov 1, 2005)

a 35 year old idiot is still an idiot (you still sound like a little kid). go away troll or come to my track where we can laugh at you in person. :shutme


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## 6QTS11OZ (Mar 27, 2005)

I really can't tell you if the dyno app is accurate, close to accurate or not. The only way to see how accurate it is is to turn it on the next time you run at the track and compare it to the time slip.


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## Poncho Dan (Jun 30, 2009)

DeuceDaProdeuca said:


> I will smoke you. You've never even ran at the track and my like are better than your talk. I'm 35 and probably look younger than you. I guarantee I'm physically superior to you and you'd never talk sh*t to me in person. I travel a lot. What city are you in? Bring your girl. She'll tell you if I'm impotent the net day. You probably don't work because your fagget ass sleeps in mommy's basement and a professional student. Now back to topic. No more talking **** unless you're willing to meet up. I'm tire of hearing your excuses for being proven wrong. For instance..."it may lose power, but not as much as if lug nuts were loose". Are you THAT fn stupid? Did you get your GED? We're not talking about lug nuts dum-dum. My evidence on youtube, etc. are far better than your barely gettin' pu**y ass talk. Go to the track and get some experience. I was born and raised in NY and live in California. I'm constantly in Las Vegas, Reno, and Portland/Springfield Oregon. IF YOU'RE EVER ANYWHERE IN ANY OF THESE STATS (Oregon, Nevada, California) hit me up. Let's see how tough you are when I'm looking down on you.


I'm shooting gaping holes in your argument and all you can do is cry like a little girl. Did daddy touch your special area while mommy was at work? I can't believe that you're physically superior when you're so incredibly mentally inferior. Bring it to Wisconsin, lets see you talk hard when I curb stomp you.



DeuceDaProdeuca said:


> You're on a GTO site talking about video games! I'm sorry. I take EVERYTHING back. I'm e-fighting with a person who gets meds and a check every month distributed by a house manager. I refuse to argue with retard. Respond if you want. I'm on a new thread now. Nothing you say is credible.


I'm proving a point that some lame riceboy phone program for the effeminate Iphone is no more accurate than a video game. Just what, exactly, do you produce, crystal meth?


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## GM4life (Mar 18, 2007)

Ok this got out of hand.
1) Name calling is a no, no
2) Proven facts is much appreciated


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