# LSx bore machining



## Poncho Dan (Jun 30, 2009)

Question for you guys: Why is the general consensus that you cannot punch out an LS motor more than .010" and need to resleeve beyond that point? Is there a concern that you will spin the sleeves trying to machine beyond .010" over? I'm confused... aren't these things cryogenically assembled, i.e. frozen sleeve pressed into a really hot casting? If I'm not mistaken, all LSx motors utilize the same exact casting across the board.


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## GM4life (Mar 18, 2007)

I think its a matter of sleeve/bore integrity, the sleeves are fairly thin.


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## Poncho Dan (Jun 30, 2009)

Wouldn't the sleeve relief that is cast in the block be the same for all? Meaning, as bore size _decreases_ in diameter, cylinder sleeve wall thickness _increases_?


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## GM4life (Mar 18, 2007)

Good question. I don't know.

The rule of thumb that I've allways read about in the past was that if your going to punch out an LSx block you either get a cast iron block or resleave it.


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## Poncho Dan (Jun 30, 2009)

The reason I'm wondering is because say, if I decide to add stroke, the cylinders are going to need to be touched up/rehoned to get the ridges out that I would have developed over 36,000 miles. So I was thinking if we were in there, it could be done.

Perhaps it has something to do with the heating/cooling of the materials in the machining process, but you would thing blowing enough oil/coolant mix on it would cure that...


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## GM4life (Mar 18, 2007)

Back in the day the older Gen III blocks could only be honed up to .010". I don't know what the limits are now. A good machean shop that has experiance could tell you.


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## Rukee (Feb 8, 2007)

Poncho Dan said:


> The reason I'm wondering is because say, if I decide to add stroke, the cylinders are going to need to be touched up/rehoned to get the ridges out that I would have developed over 36,000 miles. So I was thinking if we were in there, it could be done.
> 
> Perhaps it has something to do with the heating/cooling of the materials in the machining process, but you would thing blowing enough oil/coolant mix on it would cure that...


You shouldn't have any significant ridges at 36,000 miles and honing should be good enough, unless you've blown a piston and severely scratched a cyl wall. I would expect to just rehone and run the stock bore size.


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## Poncho Dan (Jun 30, 2009)

Rukee said:


> You shouldn't have any significant ridges at 36,000 miles and honing should be good enough, unless you've blown a piston and severely scratched a cyl wall. I would expect to just rehone and run the stock bore size.


Well, I wasn't sure... but I figured it would need some attention, as there still is the slightest bit of wear.

I posted this question over on LS1gto and the guys over there seem to think that its a materials/temperature issue, and that the cylinder walls will crack if too thin.


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