# 1969 Dash Removal



## AAS69GTO (Jun 30, 2008)

Hi. I am new to this forum. I have owned my car for 22 years, and now I am thinking of restoring the interior. Does any one out there know of any good resources describing the dash removal process? Also, where would be a good place to send the dash for restoration?


----------



## g-mack (May 22, 2008)

check this out...
ULTIMATE PONTIAC GTO PICTURE SITE Text Topics article #36


----------



## Old Indian (Jul 4, 2007)

Removing the dash is not very difficult. It takes some patience, though. The wiring harness is connected to a junction block at the firewall next to the steering column. The alternative to disconnecting the whole harness is to remove each connector to panel switches, gauge pod, lighter, radio, glove box, steering column, etc. Remove the radio antenna wire. Remove the heater control cables, lamp, and power connection. You can remove the heater control unit from the dash and leave it connected to the control cables, but removing the cables is easier. If you have hideaway headlights, the vacuum lines to the light switch come off with a single ganged connector. The speedometer cable is not long enough to move the dash very far and must be removed. There is a spring clip that holds it to the back of the speedometer. Remove the glove box to gain access to three nuts holding the dash to the metal shelf where the defroster outlets are located. One is above the heater controls, one about the middle of the glove box opening and the last is near the right edge of the opening. Three screws inside the top of the gauge pods hold the other side of the dash. Under the steering wheel is a trim panel with two screws that must be removed. Take care when removing the panel because there are two fragile plastic hooks in the front that slip under the plastic wood dash insert. This exposes the bottom of the steering column and the bolts holding the column up in place. At the base of the steering column is a rubber trim piece, remove it to gain access to the clamp that holds the bottom of the steering column to the firewall. Loosen this clamp but do not remove it. Disconnect the steering column connector, remove the two bolts holding the column to the dash and lower it to the drivers seat. Put something like a pillow under the steering wheel to keep it from digging into the seat. There are two more screws near the steering column support that must be removed. The last two screws are in the dash corners at the bottom of the dash. Gently pull the dash toward you, checking for any wiring you may have missed or for any mods that have been done under the dash to add accessories over the years. Once the dash is free of its mounts and about an inch from its installed position, you can see the backs of the gauge pods. Just above them is the wiring harness. If you did not remove the firewall plug, you need to remove the black plastic sheath that holds the harness to the dash. There are two screws holding it to the back side of the dash above the gauge pods. 

There are two was to go on the dash pad. OPGI and Ames sells a hard plastic cover that goes over the existing pad. It must be painted to match your interior. It is serviceable and provides a much improved look over cracked vinyl. It fits fairly well, but doesn't quite align to the chrome gauge bezels or air duct outlets. If you are serious about having the vinyl and padding replaced professionally, checkout Just Dashes. If you want to see the process they use, pick up this month's Hot Rod magazine. They use a vacu-forming method similar to the way the originals were done. They also do vacuum metalizing of the plastic chrome pieces like the gauge pods, vent outlets, etc.

Hope this helps, good luck. This is not an easy process, but it works. I've had my dash out twice to fix years of wiring mods by prior owners and to replace the worn plastic pieces.

Bill


----------



## 68GTO4004Spd (Jun 19, 2008)

Wow great timing on this, I was just about to start this project on my 68 and wasn't sure how the dash attached, thanks for the insight Old Indian. 

AAS69GTO

There are a couple of other places that do the vacuum metallization for the "chrome part of the dash", if you want to restore it yourself. 

Chrome tech usa, Chrome plating service, vacuum metallizing, for plastic on model cars, toys and automotive interior dash pannels. quoated me about $350 with the correct color painted on.

Mr. G's Enterprises - Home Page sells it for $309.37 but will only paint black or navy blue unless you send the paint.

These guys do it too, but I haven't gotten a quoat yet GTO, Chevelle, Cutlass, Dash Rechroming Services. Bowie, TX

Just dashes was $600 to $800 for the "chrome" and the vinyl pad restore

These prices are for a 68 which is a lot different than your 69


----------



## AAS69GTO (Jun 30, 2008)

Thanks for the information guys. That removal description is very detailed. I will let you know how it goes when I start this.


----------



## Old Indian (Jul 4, 2007)

g-mack,

Great site. Outstanding pics.


----------



## Old Indian (Jul 4, 2007)

68GTO4004Speed,

Great links. Thanks for sharing. I still have a few pieces that need work.


----------



## dan woodland (Jul 24, 2013)

I know this thread is old but.... Great link!! I'm planning to do my entire dash area restore soon and this will help out greatly. Thanks to those that posted details!!

Speaking of the dash... Would anyone have a source for the front defroster duct? Mine has disintegrated (I can see it from above) so I know I'll need one - I assume any other duct work would be available from the same source, hopefully. 

Thanks in advance for any and all help. Dan


----------



## 68GTO4004Spd (Jun 19, 2008)

Since this was dredged from the depths, might as well tell you all that "Mr G's" isn't worth a crap, would steer clear of that guy.


----------



## MarkNS (Aug 23, 2014)

Hey Dan,
I'm restoring a 69 Beaumont which has the same dash as a GTO. When I removed the dash, I discovered that all 3 of the screws above the instruments were missing. Can you tell me what size these screws are?


----------



## dan woodland (Jul 24, 2013)

MarkNS said:


> Hey Dan,
> I'm restoring a 69 Beaumont which has the same dash as a GTO. When I removed the dash, I discovered that all 3 of the screws above the instruments were missing. Can you tell me what size these screws are?


Hey Mark,

I haven't removed my dash yet, I suspect I'll have the same issue as you judging by the mess I've found under the car (suspension etc). Look at the link above... I think the guy shows/mentions the nut sizes under the dash (I may be wrong, I've read so dang much on the web on cars. ) :smilielol5:


----------



## dvarghes92 (Aug 9, 2018)

Hey guys - see picture attached. How do I get the wiper socket and the ignition switch out so i can get to the instrument cluster?

I think I have everything else out of the way and should be able to get access to the cluster once I get those items out of the way, correct? Thanks in advance.

I am redoing the entire wiring on the car and this is the first step.


----------



## O52 (Jan 27, 2019)

The entire dash must be removed to remove the gauge housing.
Reach up behind the dash and unplug both switches. The switches stay with the dash when you remove it. There is a few retaining nuts behind the cluster at the bottom and of course the screws at the top. Unplug the main cluster plug and all other wiring and lighting as well as the speedometer cable. Remove radio, remove heater controls. Lower the steering column and remove cluster.

Remove drivers seat to give your self more room.


----------



## dvarghes92 (Aug 9, 2018)

Thanks for the help thus far guys. I have basically almost removed everything except for the heater control that is attached to the gauge cluster. There are 3 nuts (one up top and two at the very bottom). I was about to get the top one out but cannot get to the bottom ones.

I tried accessing the nuts through the bottom but the ac vents and the 8 track player is in the way. How did you all get through this issue? A little frustrated, I am so close but I have been trying to get this nut out for the past couple of weeks (off an on). Appreciate everyone’s help in advance.


----------



## dvarghes92 (Aug 9, 2018)

Anyone?


----------



## BLK69JUDGE (Jun 10, 2010)

its much easier to unhook the cables from the heater box and
bring the heater control out with the dash

there is a bracket a thin one for the support of the heater control that goes down and 1 screw up from the bottom thru the metal dash holds it in 

drop the column from dash .. go SLOW pulling the lower column cover the upper corners have a unique bend to them and break easy

cover the top of the column with a towel taped in place

the heater cable bracket will scratch up your dash paint bend it out of the way or remove it 

top out first go slowwwwwwww


----------

