# From TH350 to TH400



## KowalskiCW (Jul 11, 2016)

So I had a TH350 in my Lemans and I bought a used TH400 and am trying to refresh it on my own which is turning out to be a HUGE nightmare. 
First I broke off two pan bolts out of 13...the two that are exposed in the bell housing area. They were so rusted in I drilled them almost completely out and still cant get the threads to release!
Second the modulator is also so rusted in I cannot pry it out. I've tried everything. Hammer, pry bars, rust release spray for days upon days. Nothing. I finally sawzalled the fat part off and got a vice grips around the base and got it to turn every so slightly. I'm beyong going back now but need help! How can I get that thing off? Do I have to take it to a shop after all? Oh I tried heating up the trans case around it too. Nothin.
Third there is a plastic electrical connector which I believe powers a downshift solenoid. I'm not sure my TH350 had that? Do I HAVE to use it? Can I just downshift manually which I like to do anyways since I really wish the car was stick anyways? 
That's all...for now.


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## Pinion head (Jan 3, 2015)

What a fubar disaster. what's the year & two letter ID code on the alum tag that is attached to the side of the T400 case??? if it's nothing special, it's time to make a trip to the "nice fellow that made you such a good deal" on the T400 & driveshaft.

Kick down switch mounts off a stamped steel bracket that mounts off the gas pedal rod. There are several different '68-72 A-body gas pedal rods, I believe the '69 rod is the same as T400, do know the rod is an oddball on a '72 with T350. Should have, in stock, the kick down setup if you ever get squared away with a decent T400 to have rebuilt.


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## KowalskiCW (Jul 11, 2016)

Yea PH he had 3 or 4 trans sitting around and the one I chose was from a 69 Lemans/GTO. It looked dirty but it turned nice and free. I didn't want it rebuilt by anyone. I just wanted to drain the fluids, replace the output seals, filter, modulator and anything that looked worn. I had no idea nor did he that the bolts were seized and the modulator was seized. I don't want to make enemies with this guy he has been a tremendous help and has every GTO part any of us could ever ask for just sitting in his storage and home shop.
I believe FJ - 69 are the digits from a picture I took but if that doesn't sound right I'll have to check tonight. Thanks for the kickdown offer. I'll keep that in mind. Is it easy to add as an after thought if I end up getting annoyed with manually shifting?


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## KowalskiCW (Jul 11, 2016)

So please someone give me an idea of how to get a really rusted modulator out! It should just pop out with some force right? I mean it's not screwed in or anything on a 69 TH400? My last resort is a slide hammer which I plan on trying this weekend. I've soaked and soaked and bashed with a hammer and tried heat. I finally cut the main body off and used vise grips and was able to move it in one direction BARELY but hurt my shoulder in the process like I mentioned in my initial post.


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## 1968gto421 (Mar 28, 2014)

The TH400 housing is aluminum and the bolts are steel as is the modulator. I could be very wrong, but its possible some form of electrolysis has corroded the metals together a this sometime happens with aluminum intakes. If this happens its kind of like an electric weld. I think PinionHead said it all, time for a trip back to your "guru" to see if he'll swap trannys with you. Getting these parts separated is possible but I do not know the exact procedure.

Best of luck!! Hopefully someone here will have a good answer for this. Another possibility is to post it on the PY forum ( Pontiac - Street - PY Online Forums ) which has way more members and I'm pretty sure someone will have a procedure for you to use.


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## KowalskiCW (Jul 11, 2016)

Well that's definitely not a good answer! haha. The guy I got it from said to try to drill it out and if it still wont come out to bring it back and he'll swap it....but he only has a long shaft left and I don't want that, especially since he sold me a gto driveshaft from a short shaft th400. I'm going to try the slide hammer tonight and last resort drilling. I was able to drill out and re-thread the two broken off bolts! First time I've ever done that and it turned out pretty well.


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## bigD (Jul 21, 2016)

"...but he only has a long shaft left and I don't want that..."


Nothin wrong with a GOOD long-tail. We won lots of races with a long tail TH400, in a '68 Bird. I also bought a '74 Ventura bracket car, which had a long-tail in it. It ran great. You just have to move the crossmember back, and shorten the driveshaft. 

The last TH400 I had rebuilt was a long-tail. My tranny guy just replaced the long-tail parts with short-tail parts. Most tranny guys who build for local racers & hot rodders, have a stash of TH400 parts they've accumulated over the years. Because of bad & broken cases, there are lots of good short-tail parts left. So, my short-tail parts may have come from a Chevy TH400, or any other brand.


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## KowalskiCW (Jul 11, 2016)

Well if I don't get that modulator stub out this weekend I'm giving up and going to take that guy up on his long tail th400 offer. I'm out of patience. It's holding my entire project up.


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## 1968gto421 (Mar 28, 2014)

KowalskiCW said:


> Well if I don't get that modulator stub out this weekend I'm giving up and going to take that guy up on his long tail th400 offer. I'm out of patience. It's holding my entire project up.


If you do have to swap it out, see if the guy has a short tail assembly to swap onto the long tail. This would make driveshaft/crossmember issues easier but as previously said, nothing wrong with a long tail.


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## KowalskiCW (Jul 11, 2016)

Man transmissions scare me and I would never feel confident taking apart the trans to swap those. My frame has multiple holes for moving the cross member so I'd assume that part would be easy. Getting the drive shaft cut and welded is the only part that annoys me but it can get done.


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## Pinion head (Jan 3, 2015)

The holes in the 2 door A body frame were not to slide the trans crossmember back & bolt a longtail T400 in. Have owned several '68-71 Pontiac Abodys that had B series Pontiac engines/long tail T400's transplanted in them. The inclination of the eng/trans changes slightly & put the 19 1/2" fan into the bottom of the fabshroud. This slight change in angle also changes the pinion angle of the driveshaft. Engineers chose the short tail T400 for a reason.


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## KowalskiCW (Jul 11, 2016)

PH that's kinda what I thought about the long tail with angles changing too. Glad someone else said it. Well there is one machine shop in town I can always take the trans to them and see if they can get that damn thing out...guess I'll see how the weekend goes. Finally pulling the engine and trans out this weekend, so I can start getting it ready for the new pair...if I ever get the trans figured out!


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## KowalskiCW (Jul 11, 2016)

btw what are those holes for then in the rails? That's what I figured they were for as they line right up with the current ones at specific increments.


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## 1968gto421 (Mar 28, 2014)

When I needed a driveshaft shortened I contacted a local rod shop that was very well known. They recommended a local shop that did their driveshafts, the guy was very nice and knowledgeable, shortened my driveshaft and re-balanced it. If you need to have this done, local rod shops know the best guys.


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## geeteeohguy (Feb 2, 2008)

Be advised that using a long tail trans will throw your driveline angles off and could result in nasty vibration that you will be stuck with. Use a short tail TH400 and save yourself future headaches. BTDT.............


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## KowalskiCW (Jul 11, 2016)

Yea that is definitely what I do not want to get into(pinion angles and driveline vibration). Over the weekend I was able to get that stupid bung to start coming up, but lost steam/time. I'm hoping I can get it out tonight though and put this misery behind me. Thanks


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## KowalskiCW (Jul 11, 2016)

Well the transmission won. I cannot get that stupid bung out from the modulator! I twisted it too many times and too hard that what I had to grasp onto finally snapped off. I called around junkyards and found a guy that has a th400 case from a 71 laying around that he said for $350 he'd swap all my inners and short shaft into that trans and replace worn parts, as well as put firmer springs in for better shifting. He loves doing this stuff on the side and is a Pontiac owner as well. So tomorrow I bring mine to him, defeated, but optimistic and I'll have a "rebuilt" TH400 to boot.
Pic attached is how bad this modulator bung has beaten me and how bad I've beaten the case trying to get it out! Grrr


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## KowalskiCW (Jul 11, 2016)

I took it to a salvage yard guy that rebuilds transmissions in his spare time. He said he had a 71 TH400 case laying around and he'd just gut mine and swap it all over(including short shaft) to that one while using a rebuild kit and mess with the springs and stuff to get better shift patterns and put all new seals and whatever parts I already had for $350. I thought that was a pretty good deal so I went with it. I'll get it back in a week or two.


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## KowalskiCW (Jul 11, 2016)

Guys quick one, will my dipstick/tube work on my TH400 from my TH350 or no?


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## Pinion head (Jan 3, 2015)

KowalskiCW said:


> Guys quick one, will my dipstick/tube work on my TH400 from my TH350 or no?


No, the TUBE is bent differently & the Indicator Rod is a different length. There are actually several different T400 Tubes & Indicator Rods used by Pontiac over the years, 70 & 71's, for example are different than '72's. For your swap, probably the easiest to source in a boneyard would be a T400 Tube & indicator Rod out of a mid to late 70's big Pontiac or Caddy.


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## KowalskiCW (Jul 11, 2016)

Crap...ok thanks just one more thing to buy!


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## bigD (Jul 21, 2016)

My Pontiac trans guy uses & sells the Fitzall tubes. Says they hug the case fairly close & should work in most bodies. They have the much better "top hat" type seal. Some don't like 'em because they are longer than Pontiac tubes. 

http://www.fitzall.com/K35999U-HP.php


https://www.amazon.com/TH350C-TH200C-TRANSMISSION-UNIVERSAL-FILLER/dp/B01H2I5GNI

There are also flex tubes that bolt to the firewall--both cheap models, and expensive Lokar models.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/TH350-400-F...ash=item465fd5438f:g:NnwAAOSwWxNYzBzx&vxp=mtr

http://www.jegs.com/i/Lokar/625/1211141-36/10002/-1


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## KowalskiCW (Jul 11, 2016)

Thanks bigD! I'll have to look into those.


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## KowalskiCW (Jul 11, 2016)

So it's a good thing I got that trans rebuilt. He found a dried up earth worm inside, and every clutch pack seal was torn or ripping as well as some having burn marks. Otherwise the trans was in great shape. Got it back and looks great and ready for the car. Now to get a nice day to paint the engine bay! Stupid MN weather is so unpredictable!


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## KowalskiCW (Jul 11, 2016)

Ok I am still curious on the kick-down switch&bracket from the gas pedal. Do I HAVE to have this hooked up or can I leave it as a manual down shift now until I decide I want to put it in? Will the trans act funny? I'm not ready to drop yet another 80-100 on that set up.
2nd no one ever really told me what those extra holes in the frame are that I thought were holes for moving the cross member back. Can't I just use them if they work and just drill them out to accept the bolts? Otherwise I just drill holes where needed for the cross member in the rails right?
Thanks


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## KowalskiCW (Jul 11, 2016)

Guys do I have to have the steering column lock out bar to the trans installed on my th400? The one from the th350 doesn't seem to fit since the new trans is longer and I'm sick of spending money on this thing! Help!


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## PontiacJim (Dec 29, 2012)

KowalskiCW said:


> Guys do I have to have the steering column lock out bar to the trans installed on my th400? The one from the th350 doesn't seem to fit since the new trans is longer and I'm sick of spending money on this thing! Help!


Why do you need it anyway? Ditch it. 

I have run the TH-400 without the kickdown switch with no problems that I recall. You just won't be able to stomp the gas pedal down to force a downshift. But seeing you have the manual shift capability, you'll downshift when you want it to.

I do believe the holes in the frame are indeed to place the trans crossmember in its correct position if using a manuall trans versus the automatic. It has been a long time since doing such a swap, but never had an issue locating the crossmember to the frame.


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## rkuchar69gto (Feb 19, 2017)

*Kickdown*

The gas pedal bracket broke on my 69 at one point, right where it activates my kick-down so I replaced the pedal with 78 firebird pedal I had laying around. It will work without the kick-down but you will not be happy until you have it back. I was in the same situation, being short on cash, so I bought a aftermarket kick-down that you can install onto the carburetor linkage and it was under $50 bucks. I didn't realize how much you use the kick-down until it is not there. BTW that was about 12 years ago and it is still in my car working fine. Also... you can set when it kicks the trans down if you want it to kick down sooner or later on acceleration.


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## KowalskiCW (Jul 11, 2016)

Kick down gone screw that thing haha. And yup there holes in the frame worked out perfectly for the th400! I got a lot done last night. Now the issue is my new exhaust down pipes rub my modulator hose on the trans. Oye always something.


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## KowalskiCW (Jul 11, 2016)

Oh and lock out gone haha weight reduction! Jk


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## PontiacJim (Dec 29, 2012)

Ya buddy, you're on a roll now! :thumbsup: If when you get her done and you don't have a bucket of extra parts that you have no idea where they went and the car still runs great, you did good - just extra parts the factory thought they needed......... and you didn't. :yesnod:


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## KowalskiCW (Jul 11, 2016)

Well I knew things were going too smooth. So I got my new cable bracket and cable and went to check out how it fit...it didn't work. The new cable was too short from bracket to trans shifter, the old cable falls 1/2" short with the new bracket and the new cable with the old bracket isn't even close. I called Ames before I ordered these and matched dimensions with crap I found on ebay and of course it doesn't work, why would it?! 
Also to top the cake as I was tightening the bracket to the pan bolts one of them pulled the threads smooooove out! AHHHH I was barely past finger tight so the threads must have been damaged already before this.
Now I have to drill tap and put a heilicoil in upside down on my back with the car jacked up. 
As for the cable situation I'm stumped. My solution is have someone weld on an extra inch long tab with hole to give the extra length needed to reach the trans shifter. Otherwise it's modifying brackets or ordering yet more parts and wasting more money. Who knew changing the transmissions would be my biggest hurdle?!


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## PontiacJim (Dec 29, 2012)

KowalskiCW said:


> Well I knew things were going too smooth. So I got my new cable bracket and cable and went to check out how it fit...it didn't work. The new cable was too short from bracket to trans shifter, the old cable falls 1/2" short with the new bracket and the new cable with the old bracket isn't even close. I called Ames before I ordered these and matched dimensions with crap I found on ebay and of course it doesn't work, why would it?!
> Also to top the cake as I was tightening the bracket to the pan bolts one of them pulled the threads smooooove out! AHHHH I was barely past finger tight so the threads must have been damaged already before this.
> Now I have to drill tap and put a heilicoil in upside down on my back with the car jacked up.
> As for the cable situation I'm stumped. My solution is have someone weld on an extra inch long tab with hole to give the extra length needed to reach the trans shifter. Otherwise it's modifying brackets or ordering yet more parts and wasting more money. Who knew changing the transmissions would be my biggest hurdle?!



You obviuosly watch too much of those car TV shows where everything just unbolts and then bolts back in with no fuss or problems. Reality says that nothing unbolts easy, goes the way you want, and replacement parts never fit as factory.

May not be the cable. You may indeed have the correct one. Yes, there are different lengths, but it appears there are also different pan/cable brackets for either the TH-350 or TH-400. So your bracket may be your problem. Check out these parts and you will see what I am talking about. Have not done such a swap, so can't give personal experience on this. https://www.npdlink.com/store/catalog/Cable_Bracket_Levers-10289-1.html

On the stripped out bolt................suck it up. At least it isn't 10 degrees outside with 8 inches of snow on the ground while you are under the car fixing it! :lol:


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## KowalskiCW (Jul 11, 2016)

Haha I do watch a lot of car shows! But I also understand its all show, I just had a plan ya know. I thought this Sat I would be firing this pig up for the first time and now I won't. Just a kick in the nuts for now. I know I'll get it figured out.
As for those cables and brackets I swear I have those exact ones. At least my new bracket looks 100% like that one on the website. I am thinking the cable is the bad part. Talked to Ames and they had a $140 cable from GM of course that I could not see spending the money on if I could find an "identical" one on line for cheaper. Guess I got burned. I'll figure out the solution, just came so close yet so far. You are right on the bolt threads I am very glad its not snowing and cold! Just another set back...I'll stop my whining now haha


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## PontiacJim (Dec 29, 2012)

KowalskiCW said:


> Haha I do watch a lot of car shows! But I also understand its all show, I just had a plan ya know. I thought this Sat I would be firing this pig up for the first time and now I won't. Just a kick in the nuts for now. I know I'll get it figured out.
> As for those cables and brackets I swear I have those exact ones. At least my new bracket looks 100% like that one on the website. I am thinking the cable is the bad part. Talked to Ames and they had a $140 cable from GM of course that I could not see spending the money on if I could find an "identical" one on line for cheaper. Guess I got burned. I'll figure out the solution, just came so close yet so far. You are right on the bolt threads I am very glad its not snowing and cold! Just another set back...I'll stop my whining now haha



No problem with being anxious, disappointed, pissed off, and whining. :thumbsup: At my age, I don't expect anything to go right and when it does, I immediately brace myself because something else is about to go wrong in my life - its a sign ya' know.

Ya' I don't whine anymore....... I just usually throw stuff, kick the car, and walk out by the road and give every passer by'r the middle finger 'til I feel good again. Then I go back and work on the car wondering why in the heck I ever decided to do this in the first place. Then I watch a few You Tube videos of assorted GTO's doing burn outs........and I'm back on track again. Try it sometime, it works. :yesnod:

Probably an easier than you think fix with a little engineering and fabricating. Fortunately, I got all the tools so I can do it. Walk through the local Lowe's or Home Depot or Tractor Supply ( my favorite for fabricating stuff) and look at hardware and the different metals they have. I do this and get ideas that usually do the trick. It may not be pretty, but it is usually functional.


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## 1968gto421 (Mar 28, 2014)

PJ's right. Go to alot of car shows with first class restorations, the rest of us feel like it has to be factory perfect...NOT! You have to use your imagination with some things, as said, it may not be pretty, but it is usually functional. And functionality is what, for the rest of us, makes our cars run. If ranting here helps you get past it and back to the garage, go for it! (By the way, I'd be careful shooting fingers at passersby, too many glove box guns.)


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## KowalskiCW (Jul 11, 2016)

Well I took a long break from my stupid trans issue and after reassessing and not wanting to order yet more brackets or cables I'm going to have an extra 2in tab welded onto my bracket so I can relocate it forward enough to where the cable can reach the gear selector again. I'm still waiting on a 1/4" square extension tool for my tapping tool cause my pan and exhaust are too much in the way while installed to get a straight shot at the stripped holes. So hopefully this weekend I get that crap figured out. I did however get the entire fuel system done and all my accessories back on and the engine almost completely buttoned up except priming the oil pump and putting the dizzy back in.


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## KowalskiCW (Jul 11, 2016)

Oh my long hiatus included a trip to the East coast and driving a brand new bright red Mustang(4 cyl turbo w/ paddle shift and track mode) up Route 1 from Boston to Portland ME...what a trip! First off, never thought I'd love driving a Mustang and Second, that route is amazing! Mind cleared and ready for finishing this build!


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## KowalskiCW (Jul 11, 2016)

I beat the heli-coil situation and cut my new bracket and had the tab rewelded to the other side and it fit perfectly! Everything is torqued and not leaking! I ended up doing a heli-coil for the two bolts holding the bracket on and I think it was the right decision. Now onto the final button up and hopefully firing up!


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## KowalskiCW (Jul 11, 2016)

Ok everyone who has a th400...I bought a fitzall tube and when installing used the rubber grommet and the rubber o-ring and having trouble getting it to seal. Should I be using one or the other or should I be able to get enough force on there to get the o-ring inside the grommet?


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## bigD (Jul 21, 2016)

If you are using a Fitzall tube, there is no O-ring groove.The top hat seal takes the place of the O-ring seal.

https://www.amazon.com/TH350C-TH200...coding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=29WFWVK3M897870MVZ92

My trans guy says he has used and sold lots of 'em.


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## KowalskiCW (Jul 11, 2016)

Sorry I was tired, you're right.. But do I try to cram that thing into the grommet? Because right now it's leaking like a frickin sieve! I can't get it to seat nicely at all while bolting the tab to the trans using the spacer. So I have to work on bending the tube. After I get it straightened will it seat nicer or do I need to get that bump out down into the hole?


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## KowalskiCW (Jul 11, 2016)

Ok so I finally and I mean FINALLY got that damn tube to stop leaking! I ended up cutting off the end of the stupid Fitzall tube just above the ring and RTV sealing on this new hat and grommet.
Filler Tube Repair Fitzall for Ford Chrysler and GM | eBay
I positioned it to be overall slightly longer than the Fitzall tube because it wasnt pushing in far enough and now it seals awesome. What a nightmare that was but a cheap fix.
Now my question is what controls the RPM the TH400 shifts at? When I'm doing light driving it shifts at like 1500 rpm from 1st-2nd but 2nd-3rd is closer to 2500 and even when I hammer on it, it shifts super early when I just leave it in drive. When I manually shift it it shifts super firm(thanks to the little mods the guy that built it for me did) and I love it. I just thought it would shift at higher RPMs when I hammer on it in drive. Does the vacuum canister control that?


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## bigD (Jul 21, 2016)

"...I just thought it would shift at higher RPMs when I hammer on it in drive. Does the vacuum canister control that?..."


At WOT, there is little to no vacuum. So, the shift points are controlled by the governor. 

The governor has weights which swing out more as rpm increases. Works on the same principal as the mechanical advance, in a distributor. The governor can be modified to achieve the desired rpm for your WOT shift point. 

My trans guy modified his gov to shift automatically, in his 9 sec drag car. Ran very consistently & he won at least one race with it, at our local track.

For low rpm shifts, there are adjustable vac cans. You can Google up lots of 'em to buy. I won't do that on this post for fear of offending some. I've caught some flack from the pros, on more than one Pontiac forum, for posting links to parts info. 

I am not a trans builder, or a trans expert of any kind, and have never modified a governor myself. Just posting the info I was given by my trans builder. By the way, he is a Pontiac guy. His 9 sec car was a Pontiac body with a Pontiac engine.


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## KowalskiCW (Jul 11, 2016)

Well looks like I need to get two things then. A new governor and a speedo gear cause I'm running about 8mph higher on the speedo than my gps tells me I'm goin! I'll have to do some research on the adjustable vac cans for the trans too.
Thanks


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## bigD (Jul 21, 2016)

WARNING ! Anybody who don't like to see Googled links on this forum, just don't read this post or click on the links. I like Googled info if I think it might help a fellow Pontiac guy. 


"...A new governor..."

https://www.google.com/search?rlz=1...264k1j0i22i30k1j33i22i29i30k1.394.4pCcglmOqZ0

"...I'll have to do some research on the adjustable vac cans for the trans too..."

https://www.google.com/search?rlz=1....64.psy-ab..2.18.2984...35i39k1.0.fe2TKJhVZgI

Disclaimer: I have never personally modified a governor or bought an adjustable modulator.

So, the experts may have a better way to fix your shifting problems.


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## PontiacJim (Dec 29, 2012)

KowalskiCW said:


> Well looks like I need to get two things then. A new governor and a speedo gear cause I'm running about 8mph higher on the speedo than my gps tells me I'm goin! I'll have to do some research on the adjustable vac cans for the trans too.
> Thanks


The governor does regulate the upshifts at wide-open-throttle (WOT) and works as bigD stated. It does not affect the part throttle shifts. If you want to play around with the WOT shifts, https://www.summitracing.com/parts/tci-326500

To make change in the part throttle upshifts, you want to adjust the vacuum modulator. "Modulator adjustments work to control part throttle shifting qualities and will not have a huge impact on shift points - you may only get a few more MPH's out of the adjustment. To adjust the vacuum modulator, take the vac hose off, insert a small standard screwdriver into the vac line hole, there is small screw in there. Give it 2 full turns clockwise at least to make the shift firmer and raise the part throttle shift.. Put the vac line back on, Take it for a ride see if that helps the issue. If that helps, then add more turns, or back it off to where you like it." There are several brands if you want to simply replace yours. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-g110/overview/ You local part store should also be able to help you.

The TH400 has an electric kickdown controlled by a switch and THAT's what you want to make sure you have. You either have the switch located at the gas pedal inside the car ( as most Pontiacs do) or you can have one at the carb linkage. You can get these from the Pontiac parts suppiers OR and aftermarket switch you can add on at your carb.

"The TH400 uses an electrical switch that is mounted at the gas pedal linkage inside the car or on the carburetor. The 12-volt connection is a single spade connector just above the oil pan rail on the driver’s side about halfway back–at least that’s where it is on my TH400. When the linkage hits wide-open-throttle (WOT), this completes the circuit to connect the transmission to full system voltage. This WOT trigger achieves two things: it ensures the transmission line pressure is at maximum for strongest application of the clutches and then downshifts the transmission to the next lowest gear, depending upon vehicle speed. Above a certain speed, as determined by the governor, the transmission will not downshift from third to second or second to first gear. Often when a TH400 is swapped into a different vehicle, this downshift electrical switch is overlooked. Besides the loss of any kind of downshift function, the real danger is that under WOT the transmission has not been commanded to increase line pressure. This causes not only a soft upshift, but also damage to the clutches because the lower line pressure increases the potential for slippage on upshifts." 

Now, I have never played with either the vacuum modulators or governor weights on a TH400 as the ones I had I simply installed a shift improver kit and that was it. My TH400's also had the factory electric kickdown switch and I never had any complaints. Most of my performance cars had manual transmissions - which is the only way to go. :thumbsup:


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## KowalskiCW (Jul 11, 2016)

Thank you PJ and BigD. I will have to get on the electrical switch! I took all that out when I swapped transmissions and do not have power running to that electrical module. I don't want to burn out my clutches. I asked but no one really gave me an answer on it way earlier in this thread. I might have to buy the throttle linkage switch for up by the carb though as my stock pedal is probably too adjusted(bent by me) to accommodate the new Lokar cable system to put that back on.
I've got my work cut out for the winter again haha. I really want this trans to shift differently. Good info guys!


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## bigD (Jul 21, 2016)

"...do not have power running to that electrical module. I don't want to burn out my clutches..."


I thought the switch was just a kickdown switch. I have never before heard that running without it will burn out your clutches. Every bracket car I raced ran without the switch hooked up, and I never burned out any clutches, that I am aware of. But, as has been pointed out, several times, there is a LOT that I don't know.


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