# Installing front coil springs...need advice



## ponchonorm (Jun 23, 2009)

Trying to put new springs in the front of my 65. What is the trick to it? Using a spring compressor with the jaws as far to the ends as possible but when i compress the spring far enough to be able to work it in the threaded end sticks out past the end of the spring and hits the underside of the top shock mount. Should i compress the spring in a curve to make it easier to line up the top and bottom spring pockets? Thanks.......................Marc


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## 05GTO (Oct 6, 2004)

I use the (free rental) spring compressor from Advanced Auto, I hook the threaded clamp about mid way into the center of the spring and use the other part under the a-arm. If I use them the way they are intended the center threaded rod is too long to completly compress the spring as you have found.

For safety I use a rachet style car strap on the outer part of the frame and a-arm and a 6x6 wooden block under the a-arm in case the clamp fails. Leave the strap and block in place until you have the ball joint bolt connected.

Good luck,


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## ponchonorm (Jun 23, 2009)

Thanks Randy. I will give that a try. I bought my compresser from Advance Auto, same one as their rental. Only problem i see is that the clamp wont fit thru the lower with the hooks going the way you need them once you get it where you need it. Makes me wonder if there was a smaller compressor back in the day for this. Couple things i've found on the net about installing Chevelle springs, the compressers they have seem alot different than the one i have.


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## LastOutlaw (Jun 30, 2009)

*without compressors*

I'm not sure about the early 60s era machines but I have done them on the later 60's early 70s models using a lift and floor jack and a good snap on pry bar.
This is achieved by using the lift to raise and lower the car as and when needed, the floor jack to control the lift of the lower a-arm. I leave the lower a-arm connected at the ball joint and instead unbolt the lower a-arm at the frame. This gives more space to get the spring in. You have to use the pry bar to push the spring into it's socket in the a-arm. and then use the floor jack to slowly and carefully lift the A-arm back up into place. It is scary but I have done this more than once with success.


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## 68greengoat (Sep 15, 2005)

ponchonorm said:


> Trying to put new springs in the front of my 65. What is the trick to it? Using a spring compressor with the jaws as far to the ends as possible but when i compress the spring far enough to be able to work it in the threaded end sticks out past the end of the spring and hits the underside of the top shock mount. Should i compress the spring in a curve to make it easier to line up the top and bottom spring pockets? Thanks.......................Marc


This is the tool I used when I replaced mine. Ran it up thru the inside of the spring, connected the arms on the coils and when the spring was compressed the threaded shaft went thru the hole for the upper shock mount. Worked slick, providing '65 had the same upper shock mount. Maybe I should've assumed they're different.


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## 05GTO (Oct 6, 2004)

68greengoat said:


> This is the tool I used when I replaced mine. Ran it up thru the inside of the spring, connected the arms on the coils and when the spring was compressed the threaded shaft went thru the hole for the upper shock mount. Worked slick, providing '65 had the same upper shock mount. Maybe I should've assumed they're different.


That is the same kit I have used, on my 66 the threaded rod was too large to fit thru the shock opening.

Refer to the attached pic, I used a couple large washers indicated with the red line and feed the threaded rod thru the opening on the a-arm for the bottom of the shock. I left the bottom clamps in place for spacers and did not connect to anything. 

I connected the blue circled clamps almost to the top of the inside of the springs. I checked the index marks for the springs on the bottom and top before I compressed the spring. Use the safety tips I posted above and be careful.


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## zzomby (Aug 23, 2009)

I went through the same ordeal with my 65'. That spring compressor scared the heck out of me. Plus it didn't fit in there at all. I ended up (Don't laugh because it worked great) placing a small jack under my lower control arm with the spring uncompressed then jacking it up. Of coarse the problem arose that my car was jacking up in the air at the same time. So I put one of my concrete inserts into the garage floor, bolted a chain to it wrapped around my frame pushed my foot into the spring cause I was scared it was going to fly out and Lord knows what. Jacked it up into place. A little prehistoric but not bad for a first timer.LOL I would like to see a video on proper procedure. That would be interesting.


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## boatgoat (Jun 14, 2009)

I too tried one of the spring compressors shown above on my '68 and put the bolt through the top shock mount hole. As I cranked it down the jaws on the bottom slipped off and the result was a 3/4 inch divit in my garage floor. Very scary. The problem is that the spring does not seat square against the frame at the top and it cocks itself when tightening it down. This leads to the jaws not getting even load distribution on the coils and it pops loose. What I ended up doing worked out great and gave me total confidence to tighten the spring down as far as I wished and even to push on it with my feet to get it to line up at the bottom before putting on the ball joint nut.

*Remove both sets of upper and lower jaws from the bolt.

*Get a piece of plate steel or aluminum no less than perhaps a 1/4 inch thick for steel or 3/8 for aluminum, that is about 1 to 2 inches wider than the diameter of the spring and maybe 4 inches or more in width. I used a circular aluminum one that was about 6 inches in diameter and 1/2 inch thick.

*Drill a hole in the middle that is about 1/4 inch larger in diameter than the compressor bolt. It is important to make a hole large enough so that the plate can wobble a bit to account for the angle it will need to accommodate the coils.

*Run the bolt down through the top shock hole and put the spring in place.

*Slip the plate into the spring about 2 or 3 coils from the bottom for maximum compression. Don't get it to low or it will interfere with the lower A-arm when you swing it up into place after compression.

*Place a very thick washer or several thinner ones under the plate and run the bolt through and put a nut on the end. I actually used the jaws that had the threaded hole in them as the nut, but the jaws just hung down as they were not needed.

*Tighten up the bolt from the top and compress the spring as far as you need to let the lower A-arm swing up and allow the ball joint nut to be tightened. Don't forget to have the spring turned such that the bottom coil end fits into the pocket on the lower arm before you start compressing.

*You will probably find it necessary to kick or pry the spring to get it lined up with the lower A-arm pocket.

The beauty of this set up is that there is no way the plate can slip out because the bolt goes down the middle and will hit the spring before the plate pops out. This is especially true if use a circular plate. I think the advice of adding a nylon strap and tightening as you go makes good sense although I did not think to do this at the time. 

Definitely wear eye protection and gloves too if you have them.

-Mike


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## Bobbyg (Jul 22, 2009)

Wow.

Good writeup Mike.

I remember my first strut. loosened it up and it shot into the ground. Use the strap on the coils after that.

I like your use of the circular plate. It seems not only effective but safer!! :cool


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## ponchonorm (Jun 23, 2009)

Thanks again for all the ideas. Like the idea of using the round piece of plate instead of the jaws. The couple of times i have tried i was always worried about the jaws slipping. ALOT of energy release if that happens. 
Will give it another try.


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## the65gto (Oct 9, 2008)

I hate it when I have to do this since I also use a rubber "donut" as a spacer on the top when I put in the springs. But I position the spring in place as far as I can and then use a nylon rope and nylon towing strap thru several loops of the spring and secure it to the frame. Grease the lower "A" arm and use a pry bar to gently lift the spring into place. I try as much as possible to position the spring ends so that they align with the indentation on the lower "A" arm as they are a bear to rotate once in place. Once the lower "A" arm is lifted and I place nuts on the ball joint do I take off the strap & ropes. Last time I did it, I had to repair the spring and lower arm from the scraping while installing. :-( I had sandblasted them both and had a fresh coat of paint on them. p.s. I do loosen the bushing mounts on the "A" arm so that they move freely.


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## Klowny1969 (Aug 19, 2015)

Here is a video on how to install front springs on a 2nd gen a-body:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-A5tjSRfV08


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## Rukee (Feb 8, 2007)

I too just used the pry bar method.


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## Rukee (Feb 8, 2007)

Klowny1969 said:


> Here is a video on how to install front springs on a 2nd gen a-body:
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-A5tjSRfV08


I think you're doing way more work then what is needed to do the job. Welcome to the forums by the way. :cheers


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## Klowny1969 (Aug 19, 2015)

Thank u.. the car is not mine it was a customer of mine..i figure id post it here to try and help anyone who is thinking of tackling this job..my youtube channel is geared to the average diy'er..so feel free to peruse it for other customer cars i worked on..and if u want subscribe


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## geeteeohguy (Feb 2, 2008)

I compress the spring out of the car, then wire the back side inner coils together, so the spring is barely compressed, but in an arc. Then I insert it into the frame, careful to clock it properly in the perch pocket. I then slip the lower end of the spring onto the lower A arm perch. With the arc facing the engine. Being arced like this allows my to slowly, and out of the line of the spring, use a floor jack or if on a hoist, lower the car with the lower A arm on a jackstand, so that the lower A arm comes up and the steering knuckle can be installed. I never remove the A arm. I've done them this way for years. It's no fun, but it gets the job done. The key is to arc the spring so that it fits into the frame and A arm at the same time, even when not all the way compressed. THis is much easier to do on a hoist, lowering the car, due to the amount of drop the lower A arm needs to accomodate the spring. With a floor jack, you are up there pretty high.


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