# Trunk and Quarter Patch Sheet Metal Work - Added Braces or Not ???



## Sick467 (Oct 29, 2019)

I will be installing the 1/4 patches (both sides), the 3-piece trunk sheet metal kit, which includes the long front-to-back braces that the fuel tank connects to along with the short braces for the body mount right behind the rear tires, and some minor hole patchwork.

Now that I have the patches cut out, it looks a lot easier to get the trunk floor extensions out and the trunk floor itself....But there won't be much left to support the remainder of the quarters and tail panel (just what's left of the upper quarters)...

*Can the floor extensions and trunk floor be cut out without adding temporary bracing? If not, I'll be looking for bracing ideas.*


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## ponchonlefty (8 mo ago)

if you did it a section at a time. but it does not look like it needs a whole floor replacement from the pics.the less aftermarket metal the better is just my opinion. maybe just fix what it needs. to answer the question if you remove the whole floor i would try to figure a brace. 1/16 here could be more somewhere else. hope this was helpful.


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## AZTempest (Jun 11, 2019)

I personally have not replaced the metal you are asking about but I have worked in the aircraft structural field my whole life. With that said, whenever you remove metal you open up the chance for something to give. Take the precautions you need to make sure you end up with the alignments you need. Hopefully someone here can chime in with more details for your exact job.


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## Drewm (Jul 27, 2021)

Hard to tell from the pics, but your trunk doesnt look too bad. Could you just patch the bad spots?


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## armyadarkness (Dec 7, 2020)

Personally, I would never swap out entire patch panels for their rotted counterpart. I would cut the part that I needed out of the patch, and just replace that section.


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## armyadarkness (Dec 7, 2020)

That being said... tacweld in bracing if youre worried


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## Sick467 (Oct 29, 2019)

It's difficult to tell from just the photos, but both sides are rotted pretty bad at the body mount braces. The center section isn't too bad, but is riddled with pin holes and plenty of deep pitting. I think it could forego replacing the center section and save some coin, but the sides need 50% replaced at least...I won't know until I get to cutting it open. I also discovered that the lower most portion of the tail panel has had a rust repair in the past that needs to be cut out and made more complete. This runs all the way across the back and will separate the tail panel from the trunk floor entirely if done all at once. I am contemplating doing one section at a time, as suggested, but am still interested in bracing ideas. My current thought is to weld in some bracing that starts low on the wheel wells and connects under the rear most portion of the quarter panel. This would resist the rear quarter sections from sagging.


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## armyadarkness (Dec 7, 2020)

If the integrity is gone, then yeah, not worth saving.


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## Joes1966GTO (Apr 27, 2020)

@Sick467 - Great to see the progress you're making. It's easy to get overwhelmed when cutting out so much structural metal. I've recently done the same chopping that you're doing now. When I replaced the main floors and braces, I did it with the car off the frame - just strategically supported. However - and this might have been overkill - but when it was time to do the trunk, rear braces, lower quarters, etc, I made sure that I finished my frame work and then set the body back down on the frame before pulling the back end apart. I was really nervous about sagging or somehow getting the ass-end out of alignment so that the decklid wouldn't fit right or something. I sat the body down on woodblocks (same width as the body bushings) and as I started cutting, kept everything supported from the frame....even where there was no body bushings. This way, I could forgo any extra bracing that was going to get in the way of properly installing the sheet metal. It also helped me keep proper placement of the new braces I had to install. Of course, pay extra care not to do any damage to the frame in that process. At least for me, it worked like a charm. 
Just like everyone else has said, try to do things a section at a time. Keep up the good work. .


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## Sick467 (Oct 29, 2019)

This is what I have come up with. The fixture I have made supports the body at all the body mount locations except the two below the doors. No rocker panel work to be done and I think this section is very rigid. The pipe works below the 1/4 window swivel and allow the body to be tipped fore and aft. Not as good as a rotisserie, but I had the pipes and fittings laying around and the money needs to go to parts!



















As far as the rear sag when doing the quarter patches and trunk floor...I added a section that can be removed, but kisses the mounting points above the rear bumper. This should allow me to do the rear metal work and maintain the proper positioning.



















It's time to wait for the trunk patch panels to be delivered later this week. Thanks for the ideas to help me get this far!


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## 67ventwindow (Mar 3, 2020)

Y'all in the big cities have some fancy contraptions. If I would try to setup something like that my kids would be all over it in a heart beat. I have to expand their play complex as it is to they don't wander down to the barn.


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## ponchonlefty (8 mo ago)

hand them a wrench,rag and show them how to fix things. my 7 year old nephew tells his friends he has a job. he and i are restoring a pedal car. he gets a kick out of it.


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## Sick467 (Oct 29, 2019)

67ventwindow said:


> Y'all in the big cities have some fancy contraptions. If I would try to setup something like that my kids would be all over it in a heart beat. I have to expand their play complex as it is to they don't wander down to the barn.


You have a good eye 67Vent, whether you know it or not. The "contraption" has been made from the frameworks of a demolished fancy playground that used to be so popular at Mickey D's. Those pipes and fittings have been an elevated loft for my kids beds when space was tight, scaffolding when I needed to put the ceiling in my shop, & firewood racks. It has graduated to the grandest of jobs. Who knows what it will be next.

And I have to correct you a bit. Lone Jack is a metropolis compared to the nearest town I live by. It's 6 miles away and has a population of 200. I am more of a pack rat than a city dweller!


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## 67ventwindow (Mar 3, 2020)

The foster system takes us to many places and having eight kids I know pretty much every play ground in the KC area. So yes that looks very familiar. 

I didn't think you plucked it from the Amish playground.. Not enough wood.


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## Sick467 (Oct 29, 2019)

I have fit the side trunk panels this weekend (no welding yet). No added bracing and all seems to be solid. The center section is not so good, but not bad enough to cut out. There will be some small patches that have to be made and welded in along with many pinholes. If the center section would have to come out, I'd be welding in braces. The center section and the two braces keep it very stout. At 180 pounds, I can get in the trunk and don;t seee of feel any deflection...not that I'd do a jig in it or anything...lol.

I decided to cut the driver's side trunk patch so that the seam landed above the under brace. This will make the welded seam go much easier since it will be backed by the bracket. I did the same at the rear of both patches so the tseam landed above the rear cross brace. The passengers side was more ate-up and the area over the brace had to go. It is what it is! This also allowed the bumps for the spare to be replaced...the old ones were rather flattened.

I also shortened the patch panels under the package tray. The patches went all the up an dover the corner. That area was in very good shape and it will be easier welding that seam on a vertical surface rather than cramped in the trunk and upside down underneath it.




















TIP: If your rear quarters need patch panels...having them cut out and not welded in yet makes the trunk work much easier. I'm thinking the quarter patches will get welded on after the trunk work.


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## ponchonlefty (8 mo ago)

looks great. thanks for the pics.


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## Sick467 (Oct 29, 2019)

A few more pics of the progress. It's looking pretty good. Sheet metal welding is always challenging...balancing my patience with what it takes to keep the metal from distorting, but, luckly, I've distorted a few panels in my hobby career and have become pretty decent with a hammer and dolly. I did try metal a shrinking disc on this go around and it has some promise... Here's the progress...

The full width of the pinch weld below the tail panel was rotten and had been buggar patched pre '84. I cut it out in 3 different sections, right, middle, & left...repairing each section before cutting out the next to keep things tied together...



















Several pieces around the taillights were swiss cheese and had to be patched. I have an old 76 C10 in the bone yard and cut pieces from around the front turn signal lights to have something to start with...






























I swear the trunk patches went in and out a dozen times before I was happy with the fit, but the passenger side is in a look real good...

Before...










Some fitting...










The quarter patch goes in...



















Followed by the passenger side trunk patch and some paint (and some putty to smooth things out)...


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## Sick467 (Oct 29, 2019)

So far, my fixturing is working like I hoped. Not too much movement in things, at least not enough that I can't blame my unlevel shop floor. The test will be when the body is lowered onto the frame...maybe my unlevel floor will help when that time comes...  

Here's a few more pics of the current results...

It's nice to see some paint in place of the ole' rust and crud...



















I did take advantage of the poor condition of the rear wheel wells and managed to eliminate the excess metal to help support a wider tire. It took several home-made patches to rebuild the wheel wells (thanks, again, to the ole' 76 in the bone yard). While I was at it, I ended up welding the trunk patch panels to the wheel wells from inside the trunk. This eliminated the 1 inch plus pinch welds and allowed me to cut that much out of the inner wells (rather than beating them in later)...





























That brings my trunk project up to date while I wait for paint to dry. Next is the driver's side trunk patch and then on to the interior for wire wheeling and rough paint.


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## armyadarkness (Dec 7, 2020)

Sick467 said:


> A few more pics of the progress. It's looking pretty good. Sheet metal welding is always challenging...balancing my patience with what it takes to keep the metal from distorting, but, luckly, I've distorted a few panels in my hobby career and have become pretty decent with a hammer and dolly. I did try metal a shrinking disc on this go around and it has some promise... Here's the progress...
> 
> The full width of the pinch weld below the tail panel was rotten and had been buggar patched pre '84. I cut it out in 3 different sections, right, middle, & left...repairing each section before cutting out the next to keep things tied together...
> 
> ...


Finally some serious progress, bro!!! Looks great!


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