# 1966 LeMans - Rear Trailing arms



## Bensjammin66 (May 12, 2009)

So I finally yanked my 8.2 10 bolt and am getting ready for a new 3.90 gear set and an eaton locker  Big smile!! Car is set up with a 468, F/R discs, 17s and a 1" hotchkis drop with a bulletproof 700r4.

I want to replace my lower and upper trailing arms with new boxed non adjustable units. Also adding mount braces and a sway bar. 

My question is - *is hotchkis worth the money?* They are much more pricey than some of the other suppliers. Here are some examples. 

Upper and lower hotchkis arms are roughly $480.
I can get C3 fab arms from ebay for $316.
Spohn arms for $355.

Spend the extra $165 for hotchkis or are some of the other brands ok? My main concern is obviously not bending .120 wall steel. They are all made with good components. My concern is quality, maintaining good street/strip pinion angle without monkeying with adjustable ones and most of all a great launch. 

*What aftermarket upper and lowers is everyone running?*
What works well?

Thanks!!
Ben


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## Bensjammin66 (May 12, 2009)

Examples...

Performance Suspension Parts | 1964-1967 A-Body, Chevelle, Malibu, GTO

64-67 CHEVELLE/GTO/CUTLASS/LEMANS REAR CONTROL ARMS - eBay (item 320616765358 end time Dec-13-10 00:21:18 PST)


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## BearGFR (Aug 25, 2008)

Bensjammin66 said:


> I want to replace my lower and upper trailing arms with new boxed non adjustable units. Also adding mount braces and a sway bar.
> 
> My question is - *is hotchkis worth the money?* They are much more pricey than some of the other suppliers. Here are some examples.
> 
> ...


I'm running Spohn "everything" - Upper and lower *adjustable* arms. (You're going to want to have adjustables at least on the uppers, especially since you've changed transmissions, otherwise you won't be able to properly adjust your driveshaft operating angle/pinion angle).

I've also got their stuff on the front of the car too. I like their rear "Pro Touring" sway bar - it works much better than the factory setup. Get their "DelSphere' joints/bushings too. Fully articulated so that the rear can move freely without binding (unlike factory), and they're adjustable/rebuildable. 

I'm running UMI frame braces simply because Spohn doesn't offer them yet.

My personal opinion is that Spohn is better quality than Hotchkiss.

Bear


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## ponchonorm (Jun 23, 2009)

I put a set of the C3Fab arms on my 65. Quality is very good and you can get them in whatever color you want. Took about 2 weeks to get them after ordered. Also went with ADDCO front and rear sway bars and 18" wheels and tires. While its not all the more expensive components, the car handles like its on rails and launches straight with no hop. The other brands might be that much better, i dont know. But with the money i saved going this route, it allowed me to spend it in other areas of the suspension/steering.


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## Bensjammin66 (May 12, 2009)

Both very good points guys. Especially being able to adjust the uppers with the new shortened driveshaft required with the 700R4. I think Hotchkis is alot of name price. I havnt decided C3 of Spohn but it will be one of the two for sure. Id love to save some cash and do an aftermarket sway bar setup as well.


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## BearGFR (Aug 25, 2008)

Bensjammin66 said:


> Both very good points guys. Especially being able to adjust the uppers with the new shortened driveshaft required with the 700R4. I think Hotchkis is alot of name price. I havnt decided C3 of Spohn but it will be one of the two for sure. Id love to save some cash and do an aftermarket sway bar setup as well.


The length of the driveshaft isn't really the issue, it's the height/angle of the crankshaft/transmission centerline. If the new trans changes this angle (because the trans mount to the crossmember is a little higher or lower than it was before), then you'll have to make a corresponding change in the pinion angle to avoid getting a vibration.

Here's a diagram:
http://www.markwilliams.com/driveshafttech.aspx

Bear


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## Bensjammin66 (May 12, 2009)

SO I went with UMI Boxed lowers with poly / Roto Joints and UMI adjustable uppers with poly / roto joints, UMI frame braces and a 1" Hotchkis rear sway bar. All in all about $725 for everything. Found out my rear was a chevy but it was true and worked great so I had it rebuilt with 3.73 and a clutch type eaton posi. 5 speed TKO is the final decision for the trans. Working on that now. This car will be totally transformed by April.


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## BearGFR (Aug 25, 2008)

Bensjammin66 said:


> SO I went with UMI Boxed lowers with poly / Roto Joints and UMI adjustable uppers with poly / roto joints, UMI frame braces and a 1" Hotchkis rear sway bar. All in all about $725 for everything. Found out my rear was a chevy but it was true and worked great so I had it rebuilt with 3.73 and a clutch type eaton posi. 5 speed TKO is the final decision for the trans. Working on that now. This car will be totally transformed by April.


Sounds like a plan! Looking forward to hearing how you like the results.

Bear


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