# Rear Sway Bar Recommendations



## Ron B (May 9, 2021)

I'm looking to install a rear sway bar on my 66 GTO. There are a lot out on the market. The car is going to strictly be a driver, and I would prefer not to do any modifications to install them. Does anyone have any inputs on what manufacturer and what type would work best for me? - Thanks for your time in advance. - Ron


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## O52 (Jan 27, 2019)

Two factory appearing rear bars are available; 7/8" and 1". The 7/8" bar would be used for general 'driver' applications. 
The 1" rear bar for modified suspensions with a 1 1/4" (or larger) front bar. 
But two factors are required and both need modifications. 

1. Pre 68 models came with a small diameter front sway bar. Although not required, the front bar should be larger in diameter than the rear for proper handling balance. If you are installing a rear bar the front should be at a 1" or 1 1/8" minimum diameter.
2. Installing a factory type rear bar requires the use of boxed lower control arms that have holes drilled for the bar mounting bolts. These are available ready to use by most vendors. 

However, if as you say, your car is just a cruiser, not a canyon carver, you probably don't need the rear bar. Factory didn't install them until 1970.


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## armyadarkness (Dec 7, 2020)

I use UMI and Im very happy with the price, quality, and performance. Are your rear arms drilled already?


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## Ron B (May 9, 2021)

Both of you, thanks for your help. And no the rear control arms are not drilled. So either way if go to install the sway bars, I either have to drill the factory arms or install after market boxed arms. Now for the newbie's stupid question. How difficult is it to replace the control arms? The bushings (what is left of them) look like 1966 vintage.


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## armyadarkness (Dec 7, 2020)

If you're looking to increase performance, I highly recommend replacing all of the arms. It can be done affordable, in one day, in a driveway. But that's also a subjective statement. It does detract from originality.

You can simply replace the rear lower arms, which is very easy job, in less than 2 hours. Then theyll be pre drilled for a sway bar. I wouldnt try to drill the oem arms, unless you were REALLY desperate.


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## armyadarkness (Dec 7, 2020)

I installed Global West, tubular, upper and lower arms, all the way around on my car. The polly bushings and delrin bearings do make it a tad harsh on some bumps, but the car handles almost as well as my Vette now. 

As you're aware, the 67 is a very long, heavy platform, and for a chassis that doesn't do well when going sideways, it sure does it way too easily. Not anymore. I pitch it into turn like its a Porche and when the posi gets it going sideways, it's now effortless to control.


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## Ron B (May 9, 2021)

I too own a Vette. 1968 convertible with a 327/350HP. What do own?


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## Ron B (May 9, 2021)

armyadarkness said:


> I installed Global West, tubular, upper and lower arms, all the way around on my car. The polly bushings and delrin bearings do make it a tad harsh on some bumps, but the car handles almost as well as my Vette now.
> 
> As you're aware, the 67 is a very long, heavy platform, and for a chassis that doesn't do well when going sideways, it sure does it way too easily. Not anymore. I pitch it into turn like its a Porche and when the posi gets it going sideways, it's now effortless to control.


Who/where did you purchase the global west tubular arms and the UMI Sway bar?


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## armyadarkness (Dec 7, 2020)

Ron B said:


> I too own a Vette. 1968 convertible with a 327/350HP. What do own?


70 roadster 350/330, 4 speed, and the same Global West suspension all the way around. That car handles like a Ferrari now.


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## armyadarkness (Dec 7, 2020)

Ron B said:


> Who/where did you purchase the global west tubular arms and the UMI Sway bar?


I used Summit for everything. Global West is an awesome company. You can call and not only get an American human, but the owner. He's a serious GTO racer, too!

Keep in mind that you can get knock-off Chinese, tubular suspension from Summit/ Jegs/ Amazon... which will be dramatic improvement over stock, however they cut massive corners on hardware and design. The Global West stuff is oversized, heavy wall chromoly, with American Made, grade 8 hardware and ball joints, and greasable, servicable bearings and bushings. 

The Chinese arms will have balljoints that look like they came off a Big Wheel, bushings that look like they came from the Playdoh Fun Factory, and hardware that looks like it's left over from a flatscreen TV mount.

But, expect to pay more for the GW stuff. If you're a "get what you pay for" guy, then GW is great, because you do! If you want to save money, get a lesser brand, but at least upgrade the hardware and ball joints.


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## armyadarkness (Dec 7, 2020)

BTW, the upper arms on the rear, will require a special tool to remove the bushings, but it's easy to make one. I say this because if you're going to start taking things apart, you may choose to do it all at once. Here's the UMI bar and GW lowers







BTW


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## ylwgto (Oct 27, 2009)

I have UMI tubular upper and lower arms and a sway bar and echo everything army says, MASSIVE handling improvement over my stock (unboxed) arms


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## Ron B (May 9, 2021)

Well you two are way above my level working on cars. Removing and replacing the rear lower arms looks pretty straight forward. Not so sure about the upper ones. Can one of you give me a short step-by-step outline of how to remove and replace the rear top arms? The chassis manual is written for mechanics which I obviously am not!!


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## Baaad65 (Aug 29, 2019)

I'm pretty sure my 1" bar for my '65 came with spacers that went inside the lower arms, don't know if that's the best way though? Now I'm running solid South Side Machine lift bars as my lowers...much better traction.


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## ylwgto (Oct 27, 2009)

Ron B said:


> Well you two are way above my level working on cars. Removing and replacing the rear lower arms looks pretty straight forward. Not so sure about the upper ones. Can one of you give me a short step-by-step outline of how to remove and replace the rear top arms? The chassis manual is written for mechanics which I obviously am not!!


As long as you have equipment to get the back of your car jacked up safely with some room underneath to work, I'm sure you can do it. 

I did the lowers first and installe the sway bar, then moved to the uppers which are slightly tougher simply due to tighter work space. If you aren't interested in changing the upper bushings in your rear end, the job is super simple (4 bolts). I just recently did it myself in my driveway with hand tools. The shocks tend to hold the rear in place, but I used an extra jackstand under the axle tube of the rear on the side I was working on just for piece of mind.

Here is a youtube vid showing some guys installing UMI arms (I'm sure there are others out there too):






3 important things are 1] do not fully tighten the 4 control arm bolts to torque spec until the car is back on the ground under its own weight (to avoid suspension binding), 2] pay attention to the grease fittings on the new arms to make sure you can get access them after instal, 3] if you get adjustable upper arms, set the length to match the stock arm length or you will have to pay attention to your pinion angle

Avoid tubular rear control arms that do not have structural sway bar bolt holes (i.e., a tube welded across the inner control arm to receive the bolt). 

hope this helps! you can do it


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## Lemans guy (Oct 14, 2014)

Yes I like mine, boxed lowers, rear sway bar, UMI adjustable upper rear control arms. The sway bars and control arms really help on curves and corners. These cars are long compared to what many usually drive in sedans these days. It helps them stay on the road!


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## armyadarkness (Dec 7, 2020)

If your rear upper bushings, which are pressed into the diff housing, are good, then as Yellow said, it's a cake walk. Just reuse them. If you do need/ want to replace the bushings, then it's still easy, just use the tool! It's a very straight forward job... tight quarters in the driveway... but otherwise no big deal.

The tool is easy to make and it saves a good hour of aggravation.

BTW... This is also a good time to add convertible braces, if your car doesnt already have them.


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## Baaad65 (Aug 29, 2019)

Yup sure is, got those same triangulation bars on mine 👍


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## armyadarkness (Dec 7, 2020)

And if youre not going to add them, then fine, but you'll be replacing the bolts that install them, on a control arm swap, so for the $100, it's worth doing them now, vs redoing the entire job a week later.


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## Ron B (May 9, 2021)

ylwgto said:


> As long as you have equipment to get the back of your car jacked up safely with some room underneath to work, I'm sure you can do it.
> 
> I did the lowers first and installe the sway bar, then moved to the uppers which are slightly tougher simply due to tighter work space. If you aren't interested in changing the upper bushings in your rear end, the job is super simple (4 bolts). I just recently did it myself in my driveway with hand tools. The shocks tend to hold the rear in place, but I used an extra jackstand under the axle tube of the rear on the side I was working on just for piece of mind.
> 
> ...


Thanks it does. If I've got it taken a part I might as well replace the upper bushings. An earlier poster said you need a special tool, but could fabricate one. I have Two questions. If you can help me out that would be great. 1. How do I remove the bushing? and 2. What does the special tool look like and how is it utilized? Well that was three questions.


armyadarkness said:


> And if youre not going to add them, then fine, but you'll be replacing the bolts that install them, on a control arm swap, so for the $100, it's worth doing them now, vs redoing the entire job a week later.





armyadarkness said:


> And if youre not going to add them, then fine, but you'll be replacing the bolts that install them, on a control arm swap, so for the $100, it's worth doing them now, vs redoing the entire job a week later.





armyadarkness said:


> And if youre not going to add them, then fine, but you'll be replacing the bolts that install them, on a control arm swap, so for the $100, it's worth doing them now, vs redoing the entire job a week later.





armyadarkness said:


> And if youre not going to add them, then fine, but you'll be replacing the bolts that install them, on a control arm swap, so for the $100, it's worth doing them now, vs redoing the entire job a week later.


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## Ron B (May 9, 2021)

Ron B said:


> Thanks it does. If I've got it taken a part I might as well replace the upper bushings. An earlier poster said you need a special tool, but could fabricate one. I have Two questions. If you can help me out that would be great. 1. How do I remove the bushing? and 2. What does the special tool look like and how is it utilized? Well that was three questions.


Dont know how to get out of this quote mess. As for the 


armyadarkness said:


> If your rear upper bushings, which are pressed into the diff housing, are good, then as Yellow said, it's a cake walk. Just reuse them. If you do need/ want to replace the bushings, then it's still easy, just use the tool! It's a very straight forward job... tight quarters in the driveway... but otherwise no big deal.
> 
> The tool is easy to make and it saves a good hour of aggravation.
> 
> BTW... This is also a good time to add convertible braces, if your car doesnt already have them.


Sounds like good advice. I'll add them to my list. Back to the tool. I don't know what it looks like or how it is used. Can I just buy one and if so where at? Hopefully summit! Thanks again for all the help and sorry about the quote thing. Got into it and can't seem to get out! Typical newbie move!!!


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## armyadarkness (Dec 7, 2020)

Here's the tool. This is why I say you can make it.


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## armyadarkness (Dec 7, 2020)

If you have a ball joint press set or bearing press set, they work too. It's easy to get the old bushings out with an air hammer/ chisel, but as yellow said, you're going to be squished up in there like a guy sneaking across the border, so you'll want the job as quick and easy as possible.


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## ylwgto (Oct 27, 2009)

armyadarkness said:


> BTW... This is also a good time to add convertible braces, if your car doesnt already have them.


Did you get a noticeable change in driving manners after adding those subframe connectors? I totally forgot about them when doing my rear arms. Look pretty easy to instal on a chassis demo, but how did it go on your back?


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## Ron B (May 9, 2021)

Thanks again


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## armyadarkness (Dec 7, 2020)

As you see, you put the brace legs up against the diff housing, install the bolt through the bushing, tighten it down and the thing pops right out. New install is reversed.


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## armyadarkness (Dec 7, 2020)

ylwgto said:


> Did you get a noticeable change in driving manners after adding those subframe connectors? I totally forgot about them when doing my rear arms. Look pretty easy to instal on a chassis demo, but how did it go on your back?


I think so. Without the braces, when you load the chassis in a corner, it still flexs. The arms make it react faster and more predictably, but the braces make it feel more planted. They took a bit of the roll out. And... BTW, as you know, my car is high, so to say that it feels more planted with less roll, is quite a feat. Especially with BFG 235 tires. Your car would probably benefit a lot more


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## armyadarkness (Dec 7, 2020)




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## O52 (Jan 27, 2019)

Picked up these Roto-Joint bushings from UMI. 









1965-1972 GM A-Body UMI Roto-Joint Rear End Housing Replacement Bushings - UMI Performance Inc.


The UMI P/N 2999 adds the finishing touch to allow full articulation of the GM 4-link rear suspension. By using




www.umiperformance.com


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## armyadarkness (Dec 7, 2020)

O52 said:


> Picked up these Roto-Joint bushings from UMI.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Oh for crying out loud Ed, stop showing us cool crap to buy. My car is supposed to be done... 

This poor guy came in looking for a sway bar, now he's going to leave with a Lamborghini!

Did you install those joint in the car yet?


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## armyadarkness (Dec 7, 2020)

Ah... I see that several sets are needed though,.


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## Ron B (May 9, 2021)

Army, love the humor!! Your car looks awesome. What tire and wheel set-up you running? (That is next on my list after upgrades to Carb, Ignition, exhaust, front & rear suspension, and Brakes.


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## O52 (Jan 27, 2019)

At least your's runs.


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## O52 (Jan 27, 2019)

Actually my axle guy recommended anything but rubber. He does a lot of 60's cars and trucks. Sez the repro rubber doesn't last more than a few years. He wanted to install Poly, but I didn't want the noise and didn't want to revisit this again. Plus the fact that the axle floats in the bushings rather than binds with the roto joint control arms. A little overkill I guess.


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## Baaad65 (Aug 29, 2019)

Also I think the triangulation bars keep you from tearing out the rear crossmember if you have big stickys and hook up.


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## O52 (Jan 27, 2019)

Rear Crossmember reinforcement brackets. 
First installed on the manual trans 65 GTOs. Then on all high performance manual trans GM A body cars followed by the automatics.


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## PontiacJim (Dec 29, 2012)

Baaad65 said:


> Also I think the triangulation bars keep you from tearing out the rear crossmember if you have big stickys and hook up.


If you have big sticky tires and a lot of HP/TQ, you want to add a steel plate/support to the control arm crossmember and beef up the upper and lower control arm attachments. You can also tow a Sherman tank if need be without fear of ripping out your rear end/frame.


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## nick rice (Nov 10, 2014)

I put a 1" in the rear of my 66, drilled and attached to the control arms. Replaced the front with a 1 1/4" bar. All rubber bushings along with 4 new KYBs. Big difference and noticeable for being all stock otherwise and ball joints etc were replaced during restoration in 06. I forget the brand, ill have to check though I think I bought through Summit.

Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk


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## Baaad65 (Aug 29, 2019)

I went with the biggest bar in front I could find 1- 15/16" was a little tough getting the brackets to bolt in to the stock holes but so far so good, it feels like mine has over steer though.


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## O52 (Jan 27, 2019)

The problem with big bars in the front is that they will rip out the factory mounting bolts if the frame isn't reinforced. There's only a couple threads in the frame holding the mounting bracket bolts. The trick to fix that is to insert a 1/4" steel plate into the frame, pre-drilled and threaded with new mounting holes. Drill out the old frame mounting holes and use grade 5 or better mounting bracket bolts


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## armyadarkness (Dec 7, 2020)

O52 said:


> Actually my axle guy recommended anything but rubber. He does a lot of 60's cars and trucks. Sez the repro rubber doesn't last more than a few years. He wanted to install Poly, but I didn't want the noise and didn't want to revisit this again. Plus the fact that the axle floats in the bushings rather than binds with the roto joint control arms. A little overkill I guess.


I'm a slave to innovation, which is why I went with the Global West stuff in the first place. They're not only high quality arms, but they spent just as much time thinking about the science, geometry, and hardware. They use Teflon/ delrin bearings in the critical ares, for zero bind and deflection, and spherical joints in the other critical locations as well. 

When I built my first 67, I painstakingly researched poly vs rubber and I always thought that everyone was being a crybaby about the harsh ride of poly... but NOPE!!!! You feel and hear everything. However, on the flip side, I frequent twisty roads, and when you can pitch an 83-foot-long, 55-year-old car into a turn at 70mph, and come out of it sideways and smoking the tires, then you soon dsregard the annoyance of the bumps and noises.


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## armyadarkness (Dec 7, 2020)

Also, the front bar often hits or rubs the idler arm


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## Baaad65 (Aug 29, 2019)

I thought that could happen so I'm watching it but so far so good.


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## armyadarkness (Dec 7, 2020)

Ron B said:


> Army, love the humor!! Your car looks awesome. What tire and wheel set-up you running? (That is next on my list after upgrades to Carb, Ignition, exhaust, front & rear suspension, and Brakes.


Thanks. I've always liked High-Boys. If it was a vette or trans am, I'd be okay with it low, but I like an intimidating stance and tall rubber. The rim and tire setup is just 15x7 Rally 2, with BFG 235/70/15's (I think), but now that the suspension is all done, I'll be looking to go wider in the rear, for sure.


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## BearGFR (Aug 25, 2008)

Ron B said:


> I'm looking to install a rear sway bar on my 66 GTO. There are a lot out on the market. The car is going to strictly be a driver, and I would prefer not to do any modifications to install them. Does anyone have any inputs on what manufacturer and what type would work best for me? - Thanks for your time in advance. - Ron


There are other options besides installing a bar that mounts to the control arms. I'm running a Spohn Engineering bar on my '69 and I like it a lot. Instead of mounting to the control arms, it has links with heim joints that mount to the rear crossmember.

Pro-Touring Adjustable Rear Sway Bar - 1964-1967 GM A-Body: Chevelle, Malibu, GTO, etc.






































Bear


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## armyadarkness (Dec 7, 2020)

Really digging this spherical bearing setup. Still not sure if you need more than just one set, though.


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## BearGFR (Aug 25, 2008)

armyadarkness said:


> Really digging this spherical bearing setup. Still not sure if you need more than just one set, though.


Not sure what you mean by one set? My bar has links on both ends, with spherical joints at both ends of each link.


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## armyadarkness (Dec 7, 2020)

BearGFR said:


> Not sure what you mean by one set? My bar has links on both ends, with spherical joints at both ends of each link.


That answers my question. 90% of the upper rear control arms don't come with a spherical end where it connects to the chassis. So in order for the rear to truly articulate you would need to install spherical joints at every location


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## armyadarkness (Dec 7, 2020)

So I would have to change out my upper arms


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## BearGFR (Aug 25, 2008)

armyadarkness said:


> So I would have to change out my upper arms


 No. No changes to existing control arms are required _to install that sway bar_. The sway bar I have does not attach to the control arms at all. The bar itself rides in urethane bushings that are "clamped" (for lack of a better explanation) in brackets that mount to the axle tubes. The ends of the bar connect to links that have spherical joints on both ends. The other ends of these links mount to the frame crossmember. The installation instructions recommend welding the mounting brackets to the cross member, but I drilled and bolted mine using meaty grade-8 hardware. It hasn't budged in more than 10 years.

But you're correct about rear end articulation, however even without a sway bar, with the factory control arms the only way the axle can 'twist' in relation to the car (like during hard cornering when you get "body roll") is for the rubber bushings in the control arms to deform. This is why putting hard urethane bushings in the factory style control arms is a bad idea. During body roll, the only way that the axle can move in the way it's trying to is for those bushings to flex, or for the arms themselves to twist, or for parts to start bending/breaking. None of that has anything to do with what kind of sway bar you have, or if you have one at all.

That's why when I built mine, I also went with Spohn upper and lower control arms that have spherical ends, all in chromoly, all fully adjustable. 

Bear


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## mjc29 (Aug 5, 2008)

PontiacJim said:


> If you have big sticky tires and a lot of HP/TQ, you want to add a steel plate/support to the control arm crossmember and beef up the upper and lower control arm attachments. You can also tow a Sherman tank if need be without fear of ripping out your rear end/frame.
> 
> View attachment 143862
> View attachment 143863
> ...


Where did you get that upper plate? I would like that for my Chevelle wagon.


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## PontiacJim (Dec 29, 2012)

mjc29 said:


> Where did you get that upper plate? I would like that for my Chevelle wagon.


I had a local fab shop bend up the angle plate for me to fit over the crossmember - you can see how I laid it on top so that gives you an idea on how to measure your crossmember for its fit. Then I used a piece of manila file to lay over the backside of the control arm pocket and impressioned it to get my pocket outline and then cut out an opening in the template. The important thing to get correct is the flat side cut as this is where you will be welding on the "ear" support. I then made another separate template to get the correct shape/size for the "ears" to fit inside the frame control arm bolt pockets - trim & fit a few times to get it fairly close and then mark it where you will trim it to fit the brace edge. Once it fit well, I used a Sharpie on the back side of the template to mark my control arm bolt hole.

Then lay the template on the brace and outline the hole that you will cut out to correspond with the crossmember pocket. Do both side and when you put the brace in place, both holes in the brace should line up with the crossmember pockets - with a nice clean edge where you will be welding on the "ears." The curved side of your cut doesn't have to be super accurate, but you want enough of a cut/contour so you can get the nut/wrench in there and if you use an upper/lower control arm brace, like the UMI, you want to make sure you can fit its end and the bolt/nut. - I posted a photo at the end so you can see it attached.

Next I cut/shaped my "ear" and drilled the hole to match the control arm bolt diameter - this is also a good way to tighten up a sloppy/worn/loose bolt hole. I then put the "ear" back into the pocket, inserted a control arm bolt to position it correctly, and with the brace clamped in place on the crossmember, I welded the "ear" to the brace.

Then do the other side. You can see the photo where I have welded on both ears. When done, remove the control arm bolts to release the brace. I sandblasted and painted the brace. I did not want to weld the brace solid to the crossmember, so I used the smaller Grade 8 bolts ( from Tractor Supply) with lock washers. I simply drilled where I felt I needed them and bolted the brace on. It isn't going anywhere and the control arm bolts also secure it in place.

The brace could have been welded up, and it could have been extended right up to the frame rails with a little more fabrication, but not what I wanted. You can also attach roll cage bars to the brace if you were to go with a roll bar/roll cage. My plan is a roll bar and run the support legs through the rear panel/body of the car and then to the plate. I am not using a back seat, so I can do it this way.

You will also need to open up a hole in the center of the support if re-installing your factory brake line & clip where the hard line joins the rubber line. I have yet to do this on mine.

Here are the complete series of pics which may help.


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## armyadarkness (Dec 7, 2020)

BearGFR said:


> No. No changes to existing control arms are required _to install that sway bar_. The sway bar I have does not attach to the control arms at all. The bar itself rides in urethane bushings that are "clamped" (for lack of a better explanation) in brackets that mount to the axle tubes. The ends of the bar connect to links that have spherical joints on both ends. The other ends of these links mount to the frame crossmember. The installation instructions recommend welding the mounting brackets to the cross member, but I drilled and bolted mine using meaty grade-8 hardware. It hasn't budged in more than 10 years.
> 
> But you're correct about rear end articulation, however even without a sway bar, with the factory control arms the only way the axle can 'twist' in relation to the car (like during hard cornering when you get "body roll") is for the rubber bushings in the control arms to deform. This is why putting hard urethane bushings in the factory style control arms is a bad idea. During body roll, the only way that the axle can move in the way it's trying to is for those bushings to flex, or for the arms themselves to twist, or for parts to start bending/breaking. None of that has anything to do with what kind of sway bar you have, or if you have one at all.
> 
> ...


Lol... Thanks for the reply, but I wasn't talking about a sway bar, I already have that! I was talking about spherical bushings in diff housing! My point being, a set of spherical bushings in the diff housing, wouldnt seam to provide the benefits unless they were at all locations


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## BearGFR (Aug 25, 2008)

armyadarkness said:


> Lol... Thanks for the reply, but I wasn't talking about a sway bar, I already have that! I was talking about spherical bushings in diff housing! My point being, a set of spherical bushings in the diff housing, wouldnt seam to provide the benefits unless they were at all locations


 Correct. They'd be needed on at least one "end" of all 4 control arms to allow them to twist without binding.


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## armyadarkness (Dec 7, 2020)

BearGFR said:


> Correct. They'd be needed on at least one "end" of all 4 control arms to allow them to twist without binding.


That's definitely my concern. Do you think that "at least one end" is enough? I wouldve thought that both ends were needed in order to get any benefit. If I'll get a benefit from just one end, then I'll install them in the diff. My lowere arms already have spherical in the rear and delrin bearings in the front.


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## BearGFR (Aug 25, 2008)

It seems to make sense, in my head at least. The rear axle has to be able to "rotate" around the centerline of the car, and having spherical ends on one end of the uppers would allow that. I have adjustable uppers too so that I can fine tune the driveline joint angle. Adjustable lowers allow moving the whole axle forwards or backwards slightly, and also squaring it up with the rest of the car.


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## armyadarkness (Dec 7, 2020)

I had it backwards... The GW lowers have a bearing at the frame and a teflon/ delrin bearing at the axle. My UMI uppers have poly at the frame, but if I put these spherical bushings in the diff, then Id have poly at the upper frame, spherical at the diff, and spherical at the axles, with delrin forward, for the lower. So... Yes, all of the axle points would be spherical/ floating, and the frame contacts would all be conventional. 

Worst case scenario, GW has uppers with spherical at the frame, too. But between them and the diff, it would be about $600 just for the upper rear.


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## gtoearl (Dec 21, 2009)

Ron B said:


> I'm looking to install a rear sway bar on my 66 GTO. There are a lot out on the market. The car is going to strictly be a driver, and I would prefer not to do any modifications to install them. Does anyone have any inputs on what manufacturer and what type would work best for me? - Thanks for your time in advance. - Ron


I put in hellwig rear sway bar. Drilled holes in the existing rear control arms. Works very well. Also replace the front sway bar to a larger I think 1 1/4 inch. Cheapest and best modification I ever did to my 66 Gto… no body Lean and it drives like it’s on rails.

unless you want to spend a lot of money for boxed control alarms and more expensive and fancier stuff, this is sufficient and the results will probably be the same.


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## Ron B (May 9, 2021)

Earl, thank you very much. A lot of options out there. What size sway bar (Diameter) did you install on the rear?


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## gtoearl (Dec 21, 2009)

Ron B said:


> Earl, thank you very much. A lot of options out there. What size sway bar (Diameter) did you install on the rear?


You know it’s been about a year since I did it and I don’t remember but I’m thinking it’s like 1 inch or 1 1/4 or something like that.. i’m not home now so I can’t really look at it. Sorry but if you go online and look for rear sway bars they’re all I think about the same size if you go online and look for Hellwig sway bars You will find the sizing. I will try to find the one online that I bought and post it for you.


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## gtoearl (Dec 21, 2009)




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## PontiacJim (Dec 29, 2012)

armyadarkness said:


> That's definitely my concern. Do you think that "at least one end" is enough? I wouldve thought that both ends were needed in order to get any benefit. If I'll get a benefit from just one end, then I'll install them in the diff. My lowere arms already have spherical in the rear and delrin bearings in the front.


Think about this. You put the spherical ends on all 4 mounting points on the upper/lower control arms. Now what is going to keep it tracking straight and in alignment with the frame, and tires not scrubbing into wheel wells? The standard style sway bar will keep the lower arms from moving side-to-side and allow the body/suspension to work independent, but it won't prevent the rear from shifting around with the sperhical joints on all four control arm mounting points.

Now you need a Panhard Bar (1965 Impalas used these - as I had one) to keep that rear end from moving around from side to side. I don't think the angle of the shocks are enough to center the rear axle, nor are they stiff enough unless perhaps you went to coil-overs and aftermarket mounting kit that would have enough angle/pressure to keep the rear centered. The sway bar that *BearGFR* has installed bolts to the frame and the rear axle housing. This keeps that rear end centered and allows the body/suspension to twist/move freely without binding up as on the factory rubber bushings.


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## armyadarkness (Dec 7, 2020)

PontiacJim said:


> Think about this. You put the spherical ends on all 4 mounting points on the upper/lower control arms. Now what is going to keep it tracking straight and in alignment with the frame, and tires not scrubbing into wheel wells? The standard style sway bar will keep the lower arms from moving side-to-side and allow the body/suspension to work independent, but it won't prevent the rear from shifting around with the sperhical joints on all four control arm mounting points.
> 
> Now you need a Panhard Bar (1965 Impalas used these - as I had one) to keep that rear end from moving around from side to side. I don't think the angle of the shocks are enough to center the rear axle, nor are they stiff enough unless perhaps you went to coil-overs and aftermarket mounting kit that would have enough angle/pressure to keep the rear centered. The sway bar that *BearGFR* has installed bolts to the frame and the rear axle housing. This keeps that rear end centered and allows the body/suspension to twist/move freely without binding up as on the factory rubber bushings.


Thanks Jim. It does make sense. The Global West uppers have spherical joints on both ends, and thats why I didnt use them. My shop has had to redo several Jeep suspensions, because the owners overlooked the panhard bar and threw the diff off center.

So based on that, my setup would have:

Spherical bushings on the axle top, conventional bushings on the axle lowers.
Spherical bushings on the chassis lower, conventional bushings on the chassis upper.
Sorry OP, I wasnt trying to hijack your thread, I just thought it was important to understand the role of each part in the suspension, and how changing one part can adversely affect the others. Im big on upgrades, but poorly planned ones are often worse than none at all.


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## gkraushaar (Oct 4, 2020)

Ron B said:


> I'm looking to install a rear sway bar on my 66 GTO. There are a lot out on the market. The car is going to strictly be a driver, and I would prefer not to do any modifications to install them. Does anyone have any inputs on what manufacturer and what type would work best for me? - Thanks for your time in advance. - Ron


One of the 2 I have on my 65 is 1 1/8th and was too tight of a fit and didn't get enough threads and pulled out. I'd do a 7/8 or 1" next time


Ron B said:


> I'm looking to install a rear sway bar on my 66 GTO. There are a lot out on the market. The car is going to strictly be a driver, and I would prefer not to do any modifications to install them. Does anyone have any inputs on what manufacturer and what type would work best for me? - Thanks for your time in advance. - Ron


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## Baaad65 (Aug 29, 2019)

armyadarkness said:


> I'm a slave to innovation, which is why I went with the Global West stuff in the first place. They're not only high quality arms, but they spent just as much time thinking about the science, geometry, and hardware. They use Teflon/ delrin bearings in the critical ares, for zero bind and deflection, and spherical joints in the other critical locations as well.
> 
> When I built my first 67, I painstakingly researched poly vs rubber and I always thought that everyone was being a crybaby about the harsh ride of poly... but NOPE!!!! You feel and hear everything. However, on the flip side, I frequent twisty roads, and when you can pitch an 83-foot-long, 55-year-old car into a turn at 70mph, and come out of it sideways and smoking the tires, then you soon dsregard the annoyance of the bumps and noises.


I used the polygraphite bushings because I was afraid of that, I think the car feels good with no vibrations. I do notice oversteer ( if I have that right I get over and under steer mixed up) where I come into a tight turn crank the wheel and find myself turning the wheel back like I went to far, I have stock control arms and bushings up front, KYB gas adjust shocks, 1" lowering springs, 1" 15/16" sway bar, with 215/70/15 rubber...would like to get a little wider rubber but it looks tight now so I would have to be shorter and wider.


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