# 64 Axle Bearing Replacement



## Al T (Mar 15, 2010)

I had a axle bearing crater on my '64 last fall. I pulled the axle this week, had the old bearing removed and a new one installed. I went to reinstall the axle tonight and I have a problem. I installed a new seal, installed the axle, drove it in to seat the bearing, went to install the retainer plate, and before I can get the nuts torqued to the specified 40-55 pounds, the axle no longer rotates. I'm assuming the axle isn't in all the way so the retainer is putting to much pressure on the bearing. I've tried to drive the axle in a little further and it won't budge. Back off the nuts on the retainer and the axle spins fine. Am I doing something wrong???
The weather has started to turn and I'd really like to get it back on the road. Help?

Thanks in advance.

Allan


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## geeteeohguy (Feb 2, 2008)

It _sounds_ like the new bearing was pressed too far down the axle towards the flange end. It will need to be re-pressed into the correct position. Sorry for the bad news.


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## Al T (Mar 15, 2010)

Is that possible? I assumed the axle flared out at the correct bearing location to prevent this? Would you happen to know the correct measurement from the back of the wheel stud flange to the bearing face?

Thanks in advance.

Allan


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## geeteeohguy (Feb 2, 2008)

Sorry, Nope.


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## AZgoatguy (Oct 13, 2011)

A couple of thoughts on this:
This one seems way too simple... but did the shop that pressed the bearing on the axle put the retainer plate on backwards... with belled surface facing the bearing instead of outward toward the axle flange? If so, the bell
Or, was the wrong bearing installed. In Federal Mogul/BCA the correct bearing is RW 507-CR and it comes with the lock ring that is pressed on the axle following behind the bearing. Also, there is a shoulder on the axle that the bearing will come to a dead stop against if pressed on correctly.
Or, did you do bearings on both axles? I'm a little vague on this but I seem to recall that the L and R axle's are not equal length, one side is a wee bit longer than the other. The short axle will reach the splines on either side but will not be in very far if put on the 'long axle' side. Whereas, if the longer axle is put in the 'short' side it might bottom out... hmmm?
Good luck. 
Love the '64 - I still have a '64 GTO convertible that I bought in 1968.


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## Al T (Mar 15, 2010)

I pulled the axle again, i don't see how the bearing could be in the wrong spot. I'm wondering if the seal got hung up on something when I installed it and that's causing issues with the axle. I think I'll remove the seal and take a look?
I'm also wondering if maybe the retainer plate is tweaked a bit, the old bearing was destroyed and I'm assuming it put some pressure on the retainer......looking at the photo I attached it looks like the mounting flange of the retainer is tweaked a bit?

I do appreciate the comments/advice.

Allan


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## Al T (Mar 15, 2010)

I was posting while you were. Thanks for the comments. I just did the one axle. 
The retainer is on correctly. I'm still thinking the retainer is tweaked a bit....... or the seal is not in all the way? I did feel behind the seal and I can feel a "lip" maybe an 1/8" and a bit behind the seal. Should the seal be butting up to this lip?

....... anyone have a posi rear for sale 

Allan

......and one you've owned since '68? I think photos are a requirement! :cheers


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## AZgoatguy (Oct 13, 2011)

Hi Allen. Good catch... bet the axle lock ring is up snug against the seal and creating big time drag on the axle - redo the seal.

Yep, bought my '64 December of 1968 and I was still a teenager, just 19. I must say that it was a huge thrill to go from a '59 Chevy Impala station wagon to a GTO convertible with 389 Tri-power, 4-speed, .323 posi.... yeoweee! The car is Sunfire Red with white top and white bucket interior. Only options are PS and PB, push-button AM radio with trunk mounted power antenna, and no console. At this time the car is off the road needing restoration. It has three coats of paint so will need to go bare metal and will rebuild the engine and redo the interior and top. Will dig out and post some pics of it in its prime. Please tell me about your car, or cars...!
Gary


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## 646904GTO (Feb 10, 2008)

The register showing in your picture on the retainer is where the bearing rides.
Use a depth indicator and caliper to measure the depth of the housing where the bearing rides. It should be just a few thousands shallower than the bearing is wide. If the retaining plate is a little tweaked it should still work since it doesn't press the bearing into the housing. On your fitment test put a dab a grease on the spline tip. If the grease is displaced the axle is getting to much depth into the housing, like it is not the correct bearing. The bearing is only held on the outer race with no pre-load actually being applied to the rollers, just the outer race shell If the seal is not correct one should see damage


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## Al T (Mar 15, 2010)

AZgoatguy said:


> Please tell me about your car, or cars...!
> Gary




You can see it here:

http://www.gtoforum.com/f12/nice-surprise-26255/

and here:

http://www.gtoforum.com/f12/same-car-different-look-33701/


Don't forget to post some photos of yours :cheers

Allan


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## Al T (Mar 15, 2010)

So I removed the seal, reinstalled the axle, torqued it down. The axle spins fine. I've got a new seal ordered. I guess the problem was with the seal. Weird.

Allan


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## AZgoatguy (Oct 13, 2011)

Hi Allan,
That is good news on the 'axle bearing replacement' issue. I would guess that it's now done and the car back on the road. Also, I looked at your photos... nice, nice car!!! And a Tri-power 421 is just tooooo cool.

Attached a some older pics of my convertible - one dated 1970 with the original factory paint (much faded Sunfire Red) and the other two taken in 1980 after a repaint done in 1978. When I bought the car in December of 1968 it had its original Deluxe wheel covers, not the Custom spinner covers like on your car, but I replaced them in Jan '69 with a set of the Cragar SS wheels. I loved the look of the Cragar SS wheels, and still do, but took them off the car in 1981 in favor of a set of Pontiac Rally I's. They looked really good too and not the hassle/worry of mag wheels. The Rally I's are still on the car but when I do the restoration I plan to pull the Deluxe covers off the shelf and put them back on. Early on I did a lot of cruising Speedway Blvd here in Tucson and matched up against many a muscle car (they were all over the place in those years - '69...'72) and won some and lost some, but always had a heart-pounding good time! Later on it was a family car and did vacations to Iowa, Wyoming, and points in between. Its really has been a great and fun car. Will be good to get back behind the wheel again and put the pedal down... some day soon I hope. Gary


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## Al T (Mar 15, 2010)

Gary,

That's a great story about your car. Looks nice too. Do you have any current photos?

Car isn't back on the road yet. I was away on business until yesterday. Picked up the new seal today (the small old time parts place I got it from didn't charge me for the new seal!!!! Thanks Gary's Automotive in Edmonton)
So I'll install tonight and report back in the AM.

Allan


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## Al T (Mar 15, 2010)

I pulled the axle back out last night, cleaned out the seal and bearing area and put the seal in place. It gets hung up on the lip you can see about a 1/4" into the seal race area. Am I supposed to drive the seal over this lip and into the smaller diameter section? Any tips so I don't screw up the seal? I did take some measurement with a caliper and it looks like once the seal is fully seated, everything should work fine.

Thanks in advance.

Allan


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## geeteeohguy (Feb 2, 2008)

The seal doesn't drive up over the lip. It butts against it, and the lip keeps it in place.


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## Al T (Mar 15, 2010)

Well I installed the new seal, reinstalled the axle, torqued it to 50 pounds, everything is good. Axle spins fine. Went to re-install the brake drum and it's getting caught up on the shoes. Backed off the bleeder, put a clamp on the shoes to try to close them a bit (what I'd do with a caliper on disc brakes). Nothing. How do I back off the brake shoes to get the drum back on? Probably a stupid question, but thanks in advance. A simple bearing replace is becoming very frustrating.

The weather is turning nice, and it would be great to take it for a run after a long winter.

:cheers

Allan


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## the65gto (Oct 9, 2008)

Just a thought, is the E brake off or is the cable tight? Is the shoe adjuster all the way in?


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## geeteeohguy (Feb 2, 2008)

AAAACK!!! STOP!!! These are drum brakes, and have a mechanical, threaded brake adjuster at the bottom, between the shoes. You press the locking tab (spring loaded doo hickey that touches the star wheel) inward with a screwdriver from the backing plate side (Thru the hole) and turn the starwheel to let the shoes come back in. You will NEVER compress a threaded steel rod (like you do a front disc caliper!!!!) Yikes!!!


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## Al T (Mar 15, 2010)

:cheers


geeteeohguy said:


> AAAACK!!! STOP!!! These are drum brakes, and have a mechanical, threaded brake adjuster at the bottom, between the shoes. You press the locking tab (spring loaded doo hickey that touches the star wheel) inward with a screwdriver from the backing plate side (Thru the hole) and turn the starwheel to let the shoes come back in. You will NEVER compress a threaded steel rod (like you do a front disc caliper!!!!) Yikes!!!


Thanks! I have the drum off. I was aware of the adjuster for adjusting the shoes out. I wasn't sure how to back them back in. I'll give it a try this evening........ this being out of town for work is for the birds!:cheers


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