# Finally, really getting started on the Lemans



## russosborne (Dec 6, 2010)

Well, I got sick and tired of being sick and tired and waiting to get the car in the garage, so Friday night when I got home at 12:30am from work, I decided I needed to just get out there and do something. Ended up removing the hood and pass. fender, and all but one bolt on the driver's side. Was trying to be quiet. :rofl:
Saturday went out and did some more. Got the other fender and both wheelwells off. Removed the back seat. Strange thing was it wasn't even attached AT ALL. Just sort of lying there. Removed the engine compartment wiring harness, only had to cut a couple of wires. Since I am not reusing it, I wasn't too worried. :willy:
Oh, I also got the doors off. Was wanting to either build something or at least use the engine hoist, but decided heck with that and just did it. Not as easy as it used to be, but didn't kill me either. 

Sunday I figured I have to get it into the garage now. So I greased the caster bearings on the dollies as much as I could, and surprisingly the car rolled easily. As long as I didn't want to change directions that is.  So I had to position the casters for each direction change. But the car is in the garage. arty:

So I piddled around a little more. Got the front seat and all seat belts and all carpet out. Only a little surprise waiting. Guess it could have been worse. Not sure if I have a picture here at work of it or not, found a couple of orange colored sheet metal pieces attached to the passenger side floorboard/toe area. Maybe a foot by a foot or less. 

Oh, speaking of surprises, I found out that the trunk floor had been fiberglassed on the outer portions. So I will definitely be replacing the trunk floor. Not sure yet if the smaller one piece will be enough, or if I will have to replace the whole thing. Also in the trunk, I was looking at the hinges seeing what to remove since I will be using a fiberglass lid, and happened to touch underneath the panel that sits between the trunk lid and the bottom of the rear window. The visible upper side looked fine, so I was extremely surprised to find serious rust holes on the in the trunk portion of this.  Guess that is another panel to replace. 

And it has begun. :cheers

Russ


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## Rukee (Feb 8, 2007)

Sweet, be sure to take plenty of pictures along the way to document the restoration, and post them here too.


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## russosborne (Dec 6, 2010)

Let's see if this works. 
I have a bunch of pictures on Image Shack, but I think it will be easier to post them from my home computer. 
Here is a picture of the passenger side floor with the patch in orange. 
Russ


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## russosborne (Dec 6, 2010)

one more, for now. doing it from Image Shack is a real pain.


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## russosborne (Dec 6, 2010)

No, haven't stopped working on it. Keep removing stuff, keep finding rust thru. 
Got the interior almost completely stripped. Headliner, rear package tray, heater stuff on the inside, and that is about it. Then glass and rear bumper then off comes the body. I hope.

Have found quite a bit of rust in the front floor pans near the toe boards. Even another orange patch on the driver's side. 

Oh, can anybody explain why a Lemans would have a Tempest tire load chart on the inside of the glove box door? I think all that is original, but have no way to be sure.

Here's a few more pics. 

Russ


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## russosborne (Dec 6, 2010)

OOPS, hadn't realised I haven't done an update here. 

Well, got the body completely stripped except for the rear seat belts, which may end up having to stay, having problems getting them off, and the e-brake cable. Got all the mounts removed more or less, let's just say the ones still attached to the frame are not attached to the body anymore. Needing to replace panels makes life easier sometimes.:rofl:

Hoping(expecting) to get the body lifted off this coming weekend. Just need to declutter the garage a big more so I can manuever the engine hoist. Got a tow strap to use with the hoist. Not sure where I am going to put the body though. May have to roll the chassis outside and get a tarp to cover it with for now. 

So now let's see if I can attach pictures or not.

The first one is not my car, but is from Hot Rod, Street Rod, and Muscle Car Mega-site -- Hotrodders.com if I remember right. This is how I will be doing the bottom of the body. 

Russ


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## russosborne (Dec 6, 2010)

Hey, no problems uploading the pictures. 

here are some more. I need to go back and see what other pictures I have that I haven't put on here. 

Russ


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## jetstang (Nov 5, 2008)

Keep it up, looking good.. Welders getting a workout I'm sure.:cheers


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## russosborne (Dec 6, 2010)

Well, it will be once I get started. Going to be an interesting learning curve for me. Might be awhile though, not sure when I will be able to start buying the replacement panels. Just got a bill for my recent heart tests. Almost $600. So much for my upcoming bonus check. :-(
You would think for that kind of money they could have at least found something wrong.

Russ


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## russosborne (Dec 6, 2010)

*more progress*

Forgot to update here from last weekend.

Got the body off the frame and on jackstands for now in the garage. Frame is stripped except for the front suspension. Engine, trans, and rear end are sitting on the garage floor. Frame is still stuck outside on the driveway. 

I didn't get any pictures of it all neat and organised, was running out of daylight thanks to the clock change and needed to get it all cleaned up.

Wasn't bad doing it by myself. I first used floor jacks to make sure it was completely disconnected from the frame, and then used the engine hoist and a tow strap wrapped around the floor. 
2 things to note if you are going to do this.
1. Move the strap as far back as you can.
2. Center the strap on the hoist instead of having it lopsided. 
Both of these I didn't do. 

I don't think I have any pictures of the body on the hoist here at work, will try to post some from home. 

Now to get a bottle of gas for the mig and hopefully some panels. 

Russ


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## Josh.AZ.GTO (Jul 11, 2009)

russosborne said:


> Forgot to update here from last weekend.
> 
> Got the body off the frame and on jackstands for now in the garage. Frame is stripped except for the front suspension. Engine, trans, and rear end are sitting on the garage floor. Frame is still stuck outside on the driveway.
> 
> ...


Congrats on your progress. Can't wait to see some of that old metal come off and new metal put back on. Look forward to seeing some updates.


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## XCELERATIONRULES (Oct 19, 2011)

I've seen guys use some wood bolted to the body to help lift the sections.
Keeps everything from flexing.
Nice job though..not easy to get a heavy body off frame.


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## russosborne (Dec 6, 2010)

Thanks. Thought about the wood, but saw enough people on the net who didn't use it with a Lemans/GTO so I decided it wasn't worth messing with.

An engine hoist really helps if you are doing it alone like I was/am. Something else I learned from reading these forums. 

Russ


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## russosborne (Dec 6, 2010)

Josh, I might be hitting you up for some panels. 
Just kidding. 

Man, you never think about rust out there, and here it is a given. Hard brake lines corrode here. Someone gave me a car that needed brake lines. Being from Phoenix I just automatically thought they meant the rubber lines. Nope, the steel. Sheesh. People drive cars here that out there wouldn't even be worth taking to the desert for target practice. 
Oh, that reminds me I need to get the kit Summit Racing has for steel lines. Forgot all about that. 
Russ


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## russosborne (Dec 6, 2010)

hmmm, somebody moved this. 
I didn't put it here in the restoration section because I am not restoring it. oh, well.
Russ


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## russosborne (Dec 6, 2010)

Well, did some stuff over the weekend. Mainly trying not to cry. Cut out most of the trunk floor that I am sure the replacement panel covers. Found more rust and lots and lots more fiberglass. Have yet to do more with it.

The rear of the car where there is like a seam(pinch point?) going across the back from side to side (top of bumper covers this) is totally rusted. This was skillfully covered with bondo up to more than a 1/4 inch thickness.Sigh. About did me in, but I am feeling better about it now. 

Getting tired of finding more rust, want to get started fixing rust. 

Got pictures on my home computer, will try to remember to update this. 

Russ


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## Instg8ter (Sep 28, 2010)

Keep plugging away Russ, sometimes it seems like a daunting task when all you end up with at the end of the day is a bigger pile of parts and mores holes in your car, but believe me when your done you will have to pinch yourself when you see whats sitting in your garage.....and its that much more fulfilling knowing you did it all yourself.....:cheers


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## russosborne (Dec 6, 2010)

Sounds like you know exactly what I am feeling. 
Hoping to be putting replacement panels and patches on before Christmas, have to see where we are on the budget. My wife became a first time grandmother this summer, so she plans on spending a bit on the baby. Hopefully I get a little. 
She keeps asking what I want for Christmas. I keep telling her Summit Racing. 

Thanks,
Russ


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## russosborne (Dec 6, 2010)

Well, got a replacement firewall Saturday. It doesn't have the body mounting area on it, looks like they may have been removed, signs of spot welds are still there. But I don't mind, for $50 I still think I got a great deal. Just a little more work than I had hoped for. 
Not sure yet, but looking closely at the old firewall, I think I am just going to cut out the bad sections and replace those with the new. I think it will be better to keep as much orginal metal as possible from a strength perspective since I am not a welder. Tunnel looks good, as does all of the part above the two big holes. So I think I can just do what would be the equivalent of the replacement transition panels that I have seen. Floor up to below the two holes. 

Have also seen replacement cowls, both entire piece and just the outer. I think I need the entire piece on both sides, again probably just the lower half, although the driver's side may be easier to just do the whole thing, there is more rust on that side that I have found. So far, at least. 

Speaking of welding, depending on how I pick it up I may just glue the car together using a product called "Fusor". The company that makes it makes all sorts of stuff including seam sealers, plastic to metal adhesives, etc. Not the cheapest thing to do, but if I suck at welding it will be lots cheaper than having to re buy replacement parts for the ones I ruin. 

I have been building model car kits since I was like 4 or 5 years old. Would be funny to glue a real car together like a kit. 

Russ


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## FlambeauHO (Nov 24, 2011)

Never heard of Fusor :confused kind of scary prospect, But if you don't "take" to the welding, then maybe talk to some local body shops or welders, some of those guys would be happy to come out and give you a hand for a nominal fee. Good luck!


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## BearGFR (Aug 25, 2008)

I hear that modern panel bonding adhesives are very strong - stronger than the metal - so that's not a problem. What you do have to worry about is corrosion protection. With adhesives you're probably going to have some overlapping joints, so having a coating on the "inside" parts to prevent any sort of rusting/corrosion from the inside out is of supreme importance because once you glue it, it's there to stay.

Bear


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## russosborne (Dec 6, 2010)

Yeah, that is true. 
If you get a joint that is full of the glue I have been told that is very good for protection. Problem is making sure you have the full coverage though.

Still going back and forth on this. Someone on another site sent me a how to dvd on Mig welding. If I can get the gas I am going to give it a shot. This is just one of those new to me things that I tend to convince myself I can't do, so why bother trying. Yes, I have issues. :-(

One down side to glue is it comes apart at about 400 degrees F, so if your car catches fire it might fall apart. 

Thanks,
Russ


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## russosborne (Dec 6, 2010)

Well, might not matter for a while now. 
Hit the limit on the Lemans spending a bit quicker than I had hoped to. Thought I had a few hundred left I could spend on either the gas or the glue and a trunk panel, but nope.
Spent it all on the 30K maintenance on my 2010 Subaru driver. Talk about sticker shock.
Oh, well.
Time to do the cheap stuff. 
Russ


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## FlambeauHO (Nov 24, 2011)

I hear you on the costs adding up quick, don't worry, I'm sure there are plenty of inexpensive "small" things you can do if you look.


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## russosborne (Dec 6, 2010)

I am sure there are. 
I just didn't want to have to do them yet. :rofl:
I really wanted to get the big stuff done first, so I can see some "improvement" happening. Like showing the wife "here's what I did today" kind of thing where she could see it. 

We have a bead blaster at work I can use during lunch, so time to get the few little parts I will be reusing started on. Can't think of much more than the spindles though.  Wish I could fit the frame in the cabinet. 
Not sure if I want to bead blast the MT aluminum valve covers. Think I should just use some rubbing compound and a buffer on them. Oh, just remembered I think due to the financial stuff I am going to reuse the lower control arms, so I can get those nice and clean also. Maybe learn how to use my cheap summit racing hydraulic press as well. 

Haven't started taking the engine apart yet. That is the last thing that is still together. Well, that and the rear end. The engine seemed to run fine, so other than cosmetic stuff I am planning on leaving it alone for now til I have the money to do a 400. 

Another thing I need to do at some point is to start fabbing up something to hold the radiator. I have the basic idea in my head and even have most of the metal to do it with. 

I guess I do have a lot to do. Just haven't really thought about all that little stuff with worrying about getting the body done first. Need to get a list written down one of these days. I have a dry erase board I should hang in the garage for that. arty:

Thanks,
Russ


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## Instg8ter (Sep 28, 2010)

if you can borrow or rent a welder take care of the patches in any hidden /jamb areas now that way you will be well practiced when you start welding the expensive patch panels on the body. take off the rear control arms and blast and re-bush those, hood hinges (don't blast the springs too much). Also a good time to restore console and trim pieces....lol, here i am making you a punch list and i need to do one of my own....the little stuff sucks but elbow grease is free so when you are nearly done and putting it together after paint you will WANT to get it done and will be happy with yourself when you can just pop your shiny badges and trim on and get on to driving it.


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## russosborne (Dec 6, 2010)

Thanks. :cheers

Problem is half of that stuff I won't be using. :willy:

Already have new adjustable upper rear control arms, and have a pair of regular lower arms with new bushings waiting for me to go get. 

No hood hinges for me(anybody need a pair?). One piece fiberglass front end. :lol:

Need to get a manual console. Bought an auto one, but want to go with a manual now. Depending on money of course. Going to try to recover one of the dashes I have with my wife's help, she is really good at craft stuff. 

Got a floor shift steering column that I could start on as well, just want to make sure it goes back together quickly so I don't lose anything once I get started on it. 

I do have a welder(2 if you count the torn apart project Lincoln Weldanpower 250 I need to get back to someday), just don't have a bottle of gas for the mig. No bottle either, but I already have the gas kit to convert it. Have flux core wire for it, but I am a newbie with welding and don't think using that for body sheet metal is a good idea. Although I may try it using a backing piece to avoid the burn thru. Would rather not have to grind a lot, but that is cheap. 

Russ


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## FlambeauHO (Nov 24, 2011)

Flux core works fine for body but does throw a lot of slag... You're gonna be grinding it down either way. Like Instg8ter said, practice somewhere inconspicuous. And I wouldn't bead blast the aluminum if you're gonna polish it, just making more work for yourself. :shutme


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## 69Goatee (Aug 14, 2009)

Here's some tips that has helped me through my restoration. My budget is me saving up for a few months, then making a buy of all the pieces and parts that will get me to the next buy. I had a lump sum of $5000 to spend when I started, and WOW did it go quick. I divided the build into smaller projects, like welding this week, suspension next week, ect... So when I got a "small" project done, It felt like progress, no matter how small the project. Plus, I changed it up from week to week, so I wouldn't be doing the same stuff week after week. I also have a "S#!t-To-Do-List" tacked to the wall next to the car. On one side is a list of stuff to do that free or near free, just elbow grease. On the other side is stuff that will cost a little cash, mostly stuff I can get locally. I go to this list when I am saving for a buy, or have a little time to work on it. This has helped keep me busy into my third year on this car, and not giving up. Enjoy!!


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## BearGFR (Aug 25, 2008)

:agree All good advice. Something that helped me with the overall plan was to fix up a spreadsheet with major categories like engine, suspension, paint/body, interior, etc. Then under each category I made a list of all the tasks I had to do and parts to purchase. If the same part was available from more than one place, I listed it multiple times including the sources and prices --- that way when I was ready to actually buy it, it was easier to go check the current price at that point and get the best deal. I had logic set up in the spreadsheet to calculate category totals and an overall total. The way it worked was if I had a 1 in the cell to the right of a price, it was included in the total. Otherwise it wasn't. That made it easy to include/remove various things as I was planning in order to see what effect it would have on my overall budget. Some big items (like the Gear Vendors overdrive I wanted) had to get cut for the time being in order to make room for other more important things I needed in order to actually get the car running and drivable, but I still have the list so if Santa Claus comes to visit I know what to ask for 

One of these days when I'm feeling brave, I'll total all the receipts I have and see what I've spent on the beast so far. 

Just keep your "eye on the prize" so to speak, and focus on the path that gets you to your goal, whatever that is, the quickest. It's really easy to get distracted and over-spend on something, then find yourself in a spot where you can't finish the car because you're out of money --- and that's real discouraging.

Bear


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## Rukee (Feb 8, 2007)

I think I got by lucky. I ended up spending just over 10 grand on my frame-on resto in `07. Pretty much did everything myself except the vinyl top, headliner, and recovering the drivers seat. Plus I was able to get it done in about 6 weeks working on it 10-14hrs/day.


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## Instg8ter (Sep 28, 2010)

:agree break it into chunks...you got off good Rukee. same scenario body on, no major panel or welding work and doing all work myself i am in for right around 15k including car and thats bargain shopping everything and using Ebay and craigslist to full advantage...things still on the list 

posi rear end and adjustable control arms 2500 -3000

window felts Labor

sand out clear and show polish Labor, Labor, Labor

re-chrome bumpers 500

GTO hood 500 w/paint

Column wire harness 80.00

Re-finish trunk 80.00

:cheers


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## russosborne (Dec 6, 2010)

Thanks guys.

I refuse to add up the money. That would make me sick. 

It was nice to have money to just "do it" when I wanted to, but that was just a temporary thing. Was just hoping it would last a little longer. 

oops, just killed a filter at work, got to go.

Russ


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## russosborne (Dec 6, 2010)

well, that got the old heart rate going. 

Think I got lucky and caught it before it got too bad. Seems to be working ok for now at least. sigh. It's what I get for coming in to work when I really know I am not up to it.

Back to the car. 

Part of the problem is Pontiac sticker shock. When I had my GTO in the 80's it was just another old car, and parts were pretty cheap. I only paid $900 for the car running. Now, a good endura bumper is that much. So my "big to me" stash of money didn't go as far as I had thought it would. 

Just really don't want this to get extended for years. I will get sick of seeing it like this and end up giving it away like I have most other projects. Hence the inner urge to go fast. 

Thanks,
Russ


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## russosborne (Dec 6, 2010)

my not doing a back to original restoration will be a big help financially. 
For example, I got a pair of power high back bucket seats for $50. Need nothing except to be installed and wired up. 
GTO one piece fiberglass front end $500. Couldn't have changed the front end to the GTO style with stock pieces for anything close to that. And while Lemans are ok, I really like the look of the 70 GTO, so that was important.

Lots and lots of Craig's list parts so far. I'm pretty sure I have about $6-7k in it so far, but trying not to think about that. 

It's just supposed to be fun and relaxing. Trying to keep it that way is the stressful part. 

Russ


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## russosborne (Dec 6, 2010)

*Holy cow, it has been almost two months*

haven't gotten a whole lot more done. 
Just what is in the picture. :rofl:
Did that this past weekend. 

Hoping to get more done once the tax refund gets here. 

Thanks,
Russ


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## jetstang (Nov 5, 2008)

Looking great! I understand the money issue, sucks. I am buying all the parts to finish it, but body is bare steel and it's welding time, so don't need an interior now. Finish the project. Don't ditch it and let me have it on the cheap, stay on it and get it done. Elbow grease is cheap.. Stay motivated..


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## BearGFR (Aug 25, 2008)

Just hang in there and don't quit. Even if it's a day when you only get to sand one square foot or just install one part, one bolt. 

Progress happens at different rates and some things show more than others, often not in direct proportion to the amount of time and effort required to do them.

Keep telling yourself that every little task you complete is taking you closer to being done, which it is. You'll get there.

Bear


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## russosborne (Dec 6, 2010)

"Never give up! Never surrender!"

On the other hand you got to know when to hold and when to fold. 



Not giving up anytime soon. Just very impatient. My wife keeps telling me to have patience, and I keep telling her I am not a doctor and don't have any. 

I found a lot more rust on this thing. I had never really looked closely at the quarter panels until I got it up like this. The driver's side is shot. At least the lower portion. I imagine the passenger side is about the same, I know from inside the trunk that work was done on both. I could see a patch panel on one side, I was somehow hoping that meant the rust was taken care of there. I think the panel was just put on over the rust, or else whoever did it didn't get all of the rust taken care of. Or both. 

I have a borrowed compressor and a sand blaster. Both not the biggest in the world, but I am hoping that it will be good enough. Just waiting on the money to buy the media. And a bottle of gas for the mig. 
Hopefully in a couple of weeks, if our tax refund shows up when it is supposed to and our dying refrigerator is repairable cheaply. If we have to buy a new refrigerator there goes any car money. 

Thanks,
Russ


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## russosborne (Dec 6, 2010)

Bear, I wish I was at the install one part a day point. :willy:
Got a long way to go before that. :rofl:

Yet I am still hoping to have it running at least by end of this summer. Going to have to be with the stock 350/350 combo, but oh well. :lol:

Thanks,
Russ


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## jetstang (Nov 5, 2008)

Did you honestly build a wooden rotiserrie, and just roll the car over onto it? That is awesome! Where did you get that idea??

Buy the argon for the Mig and get at it, metal is cheap for patches. All the projects got to get done, so just do one at a time and enjoy the progress. I wire wheeled around my windshield the other night, now looking at it there are 5 or 6 holes above the window, plus tons of other repairs, so I feel the same way. No time line to complete, just cant give up.


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## russosborne (Dec 6, 2010)

Yep. Got the idea here.
INCREDIBLE Tip-over JIG!!! - The Garage Journal Board
Technically it isn't a rolltisserie, but there are even some of those out there built of wood. 
There is no way I would even try to build one out of metal at this point. Maybe once I get good at welding. But I already know how to work with wood. 

It rolled pretty easily. The link above has a link in the thread that shows someone doing it with a foxbody Mustang. The Lemans wasn't a lot harder, just I am way out of shape compared to the guy in the video. As long as the center of gravity of the car and the pivot point of the tilter are close, it isn't hard. Yet it is really stable once it is on the side. I am sure I could make it come down, but it wouldn't be by accident unless I did something stupid to the wood. 
Bad part is can't do firewall or rear tail , but even with a real rotisserie you can't. 

Thanks,
Russ


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## russosborne (Dec 6, 2010)

whoops, haven't updated here for awhile. Although not that much progress, but a little. 
I bought an electric radiator fan from a Lincoln MKVIII on ebay. Wasn't sure how it would fit on the universal aluminum radiator I have. Man, it fits almost like it was made for it. Mounting tabs need to come off, but otherwise really good fit. 
I have also bought an electric metal shear from Eastwood. That thing works nice. arty: And a large sized panel flanger. 

working on a diy serpentine belt drive and bought a crank pulley and a water pump pulley. Not sure if the water pump pulley will work, but it was around $9, so worth it to try. Someone else has done this on another forum and I am following his lead. His setup looks really good, not cobbled together. 

What else? I ordered a trunk pan (the $119 Goodmark one) and the bucket seat floor brackets today from Summit Racing. Had a coupon. :lol: They won't be in for about 2 weeks, but I can't afford the shipping so the wait for them to get to the Tallmadge store isn't a big deal. 
I actually was going to go to Tractor Supply and buy an argon/co2 tank there, but I can get twice the size for the same money at the semi local Praxair in Youngstown, I just need to wait on some more cash and then have to get there while they are open. Banker's hours? Really? What is it with welding suppliers, don't they like hobbiest types who need to go on a Saturday?

Got my mig welder on a real cart finally. I bought the Hobart one from Tractor Supply for like $109. Not really impressed. Maybe I should have gone with the Harbor Freight one, but the Hobart can handle a larger welder in case I ever get one. Now I just need to get an argon/co2 gas cylinder and learn how to weld. 

Oh, I also got an Edelbrock Performer intake. Not the RPM. It has "PONTIAC" under the Performer name. Hadn't planned to, but I had sent someone a deposit on some quarter panels and decided that the cost was too much with shipping, and was going to write off the deposit but the guy offered the manifold for a little bit more cash so I figured why not. I was also supposed to be getting a different body from someone else semi local who was getting a GTO to replace the Lemans he is working on, but his deal fell through and then so did mine. Although he did give me a set of rear control arms with newer bushings, and he is loaning me his spare air compressor. I gave him a trunk lid and he seems happy about it. I had actually met him from a craigslist ad, I was giving away my old GTO hood and he wanted one to cut up for an experiment. So craigslist isn't always evil. :rofl:

I've been given a bunch of little stuff from a different local guy who is upgrading his car. He is the guy I bought the radiator and a pair of decent 
4x heads from cheap.  Newer rotors, front brake lines, front control arms with almost new bushings and ball joints, a stock 4barrel intake, etc. So this car might actually see the road again sooner than I have been thinking. 

Russ


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## Instg8ter (Sep 28, 2010)

thats the way to do it on a budget, buy at discount and barter, my whole car was 30-40% off...:lol: i had good luck with E-bay, stick with the 99+ rated and had no problems, and Craigs list also put me in touch with a few local Pontiac guys....:cheers


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## russosborne (Dec 6, 2010)

I am just so tired of this weather. Can't tell from one day to the next how it will be. It deosn't make me want to get out in the garage much. 
I've got to get some gas soon. I need to start welding in replacement panels before I end up not having anything left.:rofl: Seriously, I have to force myself not to keep cutting out the bad stuff right now. Although I am seriously tempted to set the body back down and up on jackstands and start on the firewall repair/replacement. I am thinking that maybe I need to start at the ends of the body and work my way towards the middle. 

I bought a piece of sheet metal a while back from Tractor Supply. It was 22 guage. I was really surprised how thick that is. I was thinking it would be more like foil for some reason. I would think that most of the body is either 22 or 20 gauge. Unless the TSC stuff was mis-marked. :willy:
The price wasn't too bad either, if you have to get it in small amounts. There is a surplus place in Youngstown that has bigger pieces, but they charge about the same as the online places. Although no shipping charge to go get it. My wife cringes when I mention that place. :lol: When I had my Pinto I found that place and was getting tubing there for the subframe connectors that I never got to before giving the car away. 

Thanks,
Russ


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## russosborne (Dec 6, 2010)

Well, after doing some stuff Saturday I have to face reality and admit I need a different body for this thing. the quarters are gone, the entire trunk floor is pretty much gone, and that on top of all the other problems I already knew about is just too much for this car. I would have to replace pretty much everything but the roof and the cowl/upper firewall areas. 

So current plan is to get going on the chassis, since I have pretty much all the parts for that at least. 
And someone I know from another forum has a line on a decent body, if he buys it he will sell it to me on the payment plan. But I am not holding my breath, that sort of stuff almost never works out for me. 

Russ


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## FlambeauHO (Nov 24, 2011)

Bummer, but at least you have the chassis! Just gives you more time to focus on it alone... hang in there!!


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## russosborne (Dec 6, 2010)

Yep. Saturday night I really felt like hanging in there. 
sorry, bad joke. Just my usual answer to that.:rofl:

Kind of looking forward to cutting the body up. I like destroying stuff. arty:

Thanks,
Russ


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## OrbitOrange (Jul 5, 2010)

Damn this job looks alot like my 70 GTO. Rust in all the same places! And the guys here are giving great advice to you! My best advice is since doing my frame off resto is this. If you can polish it, refinish it or make it your self, DO IT! I spent way to much money on new chrome, new mirrors, door handles, carpet I could have reused, but no I thought I had to have it all brand new! 70 GTO fenders were $1K ! And buy as much as possible at once, generally you can save on shipping. That trunk pan is a pain in the ass by the way!


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## Instg8ter (Sep 28, 2010)

What year?? I will keep an eye out for one near you Russ, i assume you just need a shell as you have a fiberglass front end right? or do you need a full donor?


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## russosborne (Dec 6, 2010)

Thanks, but I don't have the money to buy one right now. It would be just the shell though. 70-72. but I honestly couldn't afford spending $200 right now. Wish I had gotten the car apart before I had ran out of money. Oh, well.
Russ


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## russosborne (Dec 6, 2010)

Finally some good news. Got the new to me body this past Sunday. No pictures yet, had to tarp it right away. My garage door picked a lousy time to break down. Something about the rollers caused it to stick, I unstuck it and broke something. Not the opener, it is in the brackets that the cables attach to at the bottom of the door. Plus a couple at least of the rollers need to be replaced. 
If I don't work this weekend I will see if I can get some pictures of it. 
Only 12 payments and it is really mine. 

thanks,
Russ


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## russosborne (Dec 6, 2010)

*pictures of new body pt. 1*

finally. arty:


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## russosborne (Dec 6, 2010)

*pictures of new body pt. 2*

:cheers


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## russosborne (Dec 6, 2010)

*and pt. last*

:cool


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## Instg8ter (Sep 28, 2010)

Nice....thats gonna save you a ton of work and be well worth the expense compared to all the welding you would have had to do with the other.....now you can start getting it back together


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## russosborne (Dec 6, 2010)

Definitely would have cost more than this body will just in parts. Add to that the fact that I would be learning on the job with the welding. 

Really am going to try to get it into the garage this weekend. Then I can start doing stuff. 

Russ


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## Josh.AZ.GTO (Jul 11, 2009)

Good looking new body. Definitely easier and less time and money involved than welding all new metal on the other body. Are you going to cut up the other body for spare parts?


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## russosborne (Dec 6, 2010)

Probably, although there won't be many good parts. The roof seems ok, so that will be a keeper most likely. The front half or so of the quarters including the door jambs. Someone who is converting his car from ac to non ac wants the air vents from the cowl if I can get them off. He already took the section of firewall for converting. 
Going to depend on storage room. 

How's the weather there? I miss living in Phoenix. 

Thanks,
Russ


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## Josh.AZ.GTO (Jul 11, 2009)

Oh man it's pretty much 100s everyday. Every year seems to get hotter and the rain season shorter.


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## russosborne (Dec 6, 2010)

But it's a dry heat. Having been in both dry and wet, sometimes I really miss the dry part.It was about 64 out tonight when I was in the garage. But 90% humidity. I came in covered in sweat. 

I got a little done tonight on the wiring. I had wanted to start laying out and mounting the fuse box and ford starter solenoid that is going in the trunk. It will be on what I am calling my electrical panel.A cutoff switch and some other stuff will be going on it as well, but I don't have one of those yet. But I forgot that without the garage door in place (it is laying in sections next to the garage) that I can't be drilling or using other power tools at 2am. So I ended up gathering up the 97 Ford Explorer wiring harness that will be the donor and cut off most of the connectors from the various sections.They all connected to stuff on the Explorer, so I will have to replace them anyway. The fuse box holds something like 36 fuses. Should be able to fuse everything I ever wanted to on a car. Lots of relays in neat covered boxes as well. Way more than I will need. 

Thanks,
Russ


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## 66goatframeoff (Nov 8, 2011)

very inventive rotisserie..


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## russosborne (Dec 6, 2010)

Thanks, but I can't take credit for the idea. Read about others using it and figured it was worth a shot since I can 't weld yet. 
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=44539&showall=1
Russ


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## russosborne (Dec 6, 2010)

For those keeping score, the new body is now in the garage. Of course the garage door is still in sections on the side of the garage, but that is a minor point. 
I ended up using the 2 car dollies from Hel-I mean Harbor Freight and bought 2 small furniture dollies from Tractor Supply for $12 each. They work much better than the HF garbage. Would have bought a couple more, but the buget is tight right now. 

Russ


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## russosborne (Dec 6, 2010)

*I'm still here.*

Wow, hadn't realised it has been a month since I have posted. Although there isn't a whole lot of progress, but there is some.
I've been working on getting the frame painted. For me the best thing for getting it done is using a 60 grit flap (?) disk on one of my grinders to get most of the rust off. Then I am using Rustoleum Rust Reformer. And then Rustoleum semi-gloss black enamel paint, rolled on with a foam roller. I have run out of the reformer, so had to stop for now. My budget has gone to zero a month for this. Since the rust reformer is less than $6 a can at Walmart that is what I ended up going with. If I wait until I can do it the right way, I will never get this car back together so I just had to compromise with myself. 

I have most of the stuff to reassemble the frame, so I am pushing to finish it. 

I also have been working on the electrical panel. I should have gotten a little thicker piece of sheet metal, but what I have will work. Got the power distribution box and the interior fuse box from the 97 Explorer mounted on the panel. 

Worked some more on the intake, I have the water crossover pretty much done but have lots to do on the rest. 

Also have partially fitted the passenger side side, again from the 97 Explorer. 

And I am working on the diy junkard serpentine belt system. 

I think I have ADD. I can't seem to stick with just one project for more than a day or so before I need to take a break from it and do something else. 

Darn it, I was going to post some pictures, but apparently I haven't emailed them to myself here at work. 

Thanks,
Russ


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## russosborne (Dec 6, 2010)

*Messy garage floor 1, me 0*

In other words, OUCH!
Was working on the car Saturday night. Stumbled on something and knew I was falling. Reached out to brace myself but the step ladder really isn't the best thing for a 325lb guy to use. No real damage, although close. Something put a big rip in my t-shirt, but not me. Today I am really feeling the pain. landed on my hip, and it hurts. Next project for the garage is to get a workbench built so I can clean up some.

On to good news. I got some real progress done. 
Oh, I am now going with a fuel cell I am buying from another forum, so I have to re-think my plans for the electrical. Decided to go ahead with my old plan B, which is to make a false floor where the bottom of the rear seat goes and put the stuff under that. Got the frame and the opening part of the cover pretty much done, still need to get a hinge for the lid. 

Also got a metal panel cut for the package tray. I am using a damaged wheel tub kit I bought from Summit last year to supply the metal. $25 and it is giving me the metal for the package tray and a bulkhead panel. I just need to get a divider panel to use as a pattern. I also need to get some replacement blades for my metal cutting shears. I used tin snips for the package tray, along with a jigsaw. Way too much work and way too much time doing it that way, and it didn't come out as nice as I would have liked. good news is that the edges will be hidden. Going to cover it with carpet anyway. 

Probably won't get much more done for a couple of weeks, I am buying back the rear bumper mounts I sold a few months ago, the guy is changing plans and I need them. Plus I have to get the garage in shape. I am way too old to keep falling like that.

Thanks,
Russ


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## BearGFR (Aug 25, 2008)

You be careful out there, Russ... your car needs you healthy so you can finish it. 

Bear


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## russosborne (Dec 6, 2010)

"oh, the pain, the pain!" 
Danger will robinson, he is going into the garage again!

I never seem to have a garage ready to go when I start something, and then if I get out there I want to do the fun stuff not the cleaning/sorting/putting away stuff. But this weekend coming up has to be doing that. I finally sold all the stuff from the car I am not going to be using (for a whole $50) so I have some room to work on a bench. Have a couple of bases to use, just need to make a top. Going to just use 2x4s, keep it simple and cheap. The last one I built I could stand up on if I needed to, but I don't need that right now, and don't have the money. Course, I should have just had the movers bring it from the other house to this one when we moved. For some reason I was thinking it wouldn't fit well. Me stupid sometimes. 

Thanks,
Russ


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## russosborne (Dec 6, 2010)

OOPS. I didn't realise it has been a couple of months.
Lots to report.

I have a work bench. Not great looking, but it works and it is really sturdy. 

As far as actual work on the car, I have the rear bulkhead done. Had to use tinsnips, but I figured out the trick is to make a lot of cuts, instead of trying to cut the whole piece off in one cut. Although that tends to waste a lot of metal. Oh, well. It's what happens when you don't have all the tools you need.

Got the passenger seat fully mounted. 

Got most of the frame painted. Note I didn't say stripped and painted. Both of my grinders bit the dust. So I just used the Rust Reformer over what seemed not to be too flaky or dirty. Then followed up with the Rustoleum. Got to get the frame done enough to mount the practically brand new front suspension and steering I have now. $250 for everything, including a Speedway Motors disk brake setup, all poly bushings installed in arms, rebuilt steering box, new center link and all other stuff. All I need to do is bolt it on. Got it from the same guy who sold me the body. Same deal too, just added the $250 to the body amount and making payments. He is going in a slightly different direction with his car and won't need this stuff.

I was stupid and bought some stuff on the paypal Bill Me later deal. Wife is NOT happy with me. But I have pretty much all I need to get the frame completed and the body mounted on it. Body mounts and hardware, Rear upper control arm to housing bushings, Scarebird rear disc brake adapter mounts, and hopefully the right rotors for them. Going to have to wait a while for the calipers. The fuel cell deal didn't happen, so I bought a sump for the new tank I have had. Getting a used but working Mallory 140 electric fuel pump with a canister filter really cheap. $41 including shipping. 

I still need to clean up the rear diff housing as well as finish the frame. I don't know if I can even buy another can of the Rust Reformer this weekend. Wife is really

And then I need to get the tires mounted onto the Center line type wheels. The tires aren't the desired size I wanted, but for the price they will work for now.

Thanks,
Russ


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## russosborne (Dec 6, 2010)

whoa, I guess I forgot to update this.
Biggest news is I had a heart attack 3 weeks ago right now. Plaque, no damage. Lucky I guess. Back to work and all that neat stuff. Had a heart catheter so I had to not lift anything for a couple of weeks, that was the worst part of the whole ordeal. 

Prior to that I had bought a 455 block. Bare, just came with main caps. Looking at doing that as my real engine. All I need is money. hahahahahaha.
I tore the heads off the 350, yuck! If I reuse that engine I need to do a valve job at least. Hoping to maybe get lucky and find a cheap running engine instead. But all spending is at a standstill since I missed 2 weeks from work. Will get the money from short term disability at some point to make up the difference, but until then things are a little tight.


Sitting around tonight I came up with the following list of needs and wants. Might help me prioritize stuff. 

Frame stuff I need for the Lemans to get on the road.
1.25 inch front sway bar mounts from UMI? ($100-price keeps going up)(already have the sway bar(used, $25 and some gas money))
Rear control arm reinforcing brackets, again UMI? ($125-price keeps going up)
Brake lines-do it yourself-get lines from autozone. ($30ish with ends)
Brake calipers for the scarebird kit-napa or pullapart ($100 or less if used)
mid 80's Chevy truck steering coupler-pullapart or craigslist ($25ish)
tires mounted on rims-Tom at work? ( case of beer or so)
Hose couplers from Lee's for power steering ($25)
Front and rear suspension-have all but above parts already, need to assemble
Radiator mount-have metal, need to do (free)
Once body is on, mount gas tank and then mount fuel pump and filter and do Gas lines-need 1/2 inch line and do it yourself-summit or jegs ($35ish with ends)

Parts I want to get for Lemans chassis but not absolutely necessary
Ford 9 inch rear end setup from Currie or other ($1500ish)(yes, not with a pumpkin, but I still have some Mustang connections, think I will be able to get a used 3.50-3.90ish fairly cheap)
Bigger rear tires. Something like P265-60 15s. Summit/NTSB/PepBoys? ($250-400?)(this is a must before serious driving)
Frame boxing kit ABC Performance ($175)

Engine stuff needed to get car on road
Finish putting together junkyard serpentine belt drive system-regardless of engine ($50-75 pullapart)
Finish intake work (water and exhaust crossovers removed already, needs cleaned up)
Find a decent running engine cheap (hahahaha)
Or do heads on current 350 and hope for the best(not the number one plan)

Engine stuff wanted
455 rotating assembly-various ($1000-2500 depending on luck finding used)
Heads done ($1000 maybe, not sure yet about pricing in 2013)
Block machining ($500-1000, again not sure of pricing)
Cam and lifters, want roller ($$$$$$$)
Misc. bearings,bolts, studs, etc ($500-1000)
Quadrajet carb instead of current Edelbrock
Port heads and intake

Body stuff needed
Tilt hinge setup from VFN ($200ish)
GTO grilles, turn signals, parking lights ($ who knows)
Windshield
Doors need stripped and checked, no idea of condition
Finish up a few welds (need mig gas for that)
Rebuild hinges
Hood-pin on fiberglass stock($300 ish if I can pick up, would prefer used)
Windshield stainless
Mount fiberglass trunk - plan is to mount onto the stock hinges(no torsion rods though) so it is easily useable. 

Body stuff wanted
Paint ($$$$$$$$$$$$$)

Interior stuff needed
Install driver's seat (free, just need to get to that side of body
Custom dash that will hold 4 gauges-in process,need some abs plastic and a gas gauge as well as a tach. Not sure if stock speedo or aftermarket yet. there is an aftermarket dash panel for almost $300 that is where I got the idea. I don't have $300 for this part. 
Finish rear metalwork and cover with carpet (black, of course)
Headliner-need to measure Lemans and go to pullapart and see what one piece newer ones will fit if any
Hand e-brake handle install-finally got one, need to figure out how to work it with console
Re-install steering column, brake and gas pedals, dash

Interior stuff wanted
8 point cage from summit racing ($200, I can pick it up at the Tallmadge store, no shipping)
Recaro seats (hey, why not?)

Electrical
Wire car-battery, solenoid, fuse box/power distribution box from Explorer all in trunk. Stereo amp under metal where rear seat bottom used to be. Stereo head who knows at this point, supposed to go into the shell of an old 8track player, but think I bought too small of one. Don't have stereo yet either. 
Wire dash for lights for gauges(mechanical) and maybe stereo stuff
Overhead console for control switches (headlights, starter, others)
Wire to steering column for turn signals
Distribution block up on/near firewall for starter/headlights/fan/HEI etc
Wire brake and taillights
Wire horn, starter, headlights, HEI, fan, etc. Headlights need to have a disconnect for when front end is off car
Wire hidden kill switch
Wire speakers-they will be in the rear where the rear seat back used to be. going to have a box for regular speakers and subs, removable in case of racing. 
Wire power antenna. Not sure yet what kind or where to mount. 

Electrical wanted
Nothing really, this is one area for sure I am doing the way I want it to be.


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## russosborne (Dec 6, 2010)

Guess it is time for another almost nothing new update. 

Well, maybe more than nothing. 

We are getting a really decent (for us) tax refund, and I get to spend almost all of it on the Lemans. I have about a $1250 order from Summit in my head and on my wish list once we get the refund. Which won't be until Feb. thanks to Uncle Sam. I rushed to get the return done, and the IRS isn't processing returns until Jan 30. Oh, well.

Getting most of my want stuff, but going to have to put off a few things like the roll cage and engine. I am getting a ford 9 inch rear already setup for a 68-72 A body, was on a 71 Lemans. It has 3.90 gears (yay) but a mini spool (boo). So I will have to get that changed out before I can drive the car. $600 for it complete with drum brakes. Can't really turn that deal down. 

I did get the front suspension on the frame. All except the shocks and coils. That was a trip and a half. The guy I bought them from took them off in one piece,and that was how I put them on. Now I need to get a coil spring compressor hopefully soon. And no the frame isn't all nice and pretty. I ran out of patience and figured I can do most of what is left with the front suspension installed anyway. But I do feel kind of dirty doing it this way. 

Russ


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## Instg8ter (Sep 28, 2010)

don't worry about the roll cage until you get a motor that does 10's, will be nothing but a hassle for anything other than a dedicated track car. I have a bunch of excess inventory from my build that i will be posting after i get back from the builders show. If your looking to build the 455 i probably will have most of what you need to do a stock with overbore. I will post here before i list on Craigslist.


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## russosborne (Dec 6, 2010)

Thanks.
I still have to get the block checked out before I buy anything for it, but that sounds promising. 
I am compromising a bit on some of the other stuff as well, did a reality check on my Summit wish list last night. Some I just over estimated, like the tach. I had an expensive 5 inch tach selected, but I can only fit a 3.something tach in the dash so that saved a lot of money. I don't need the x-pipes with the cutouts, I won't be running open exhaust, so that saves a bunch. Saved enough to go ahead and get a basic speedometer with a trip odometer and still come in under my original planned cost for Summit. 

Realised I missed a few things on the needed to be done list as well. Mainly electrical, but also important. Windshield wipers for one thing. Got to have them working. Oil pressure switch to kill the fuel pump. Heater (and hopefully AC). I will likely find a few or several more things once I actually get into putting it all together. Really still hoping to be driving it sometime this summer, but if I don't I don't. If the weather would be like last weekend was I know I can do it before summer, but now it is too darned cold to want to do anything in my open unheated garage. I have the stuff to put the garage door back together, but need to wait a bit to do that yet.

Russ


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## russosborne (Dec 6, 2010)

Well, I did get to spend SOME of the refund on the Lemans. Had to buy new tires for the daily driver. Only $600 for 4. But at least I won't have to worry about them for a while now.
So I spent about $600 at Summit and another $600 at UMI Performance. Got everything I will need to put the frame all together and get the body on, and the last couple of big pieces I needed for the electrical/dash. Speedometer, gas gauge, and tach. Most of what else I will need is nickel and dime type stuff I can get anytime. 

I did get engine mounts so I can remount the 350 and setup the exhaust-without a crossover. Not sure what I will be doing about a running engine, buying those tires might push back driving the car until 2014. :-(

Russ


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## russosborne (Dec 6, 2010)

I picked up the 9inch rear Saturday. Waiting now for the suspension stuff from UMI to get here. Then I have to figure out how to get the rear to where I need it. Getting too old to be moving all this crap by myself. 
Really hoping I didn't make a mistake with this rear. Getting anything like this used leaves a bad feeling in my stomach, but used was the only way I could really do it.


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