# Centerlink dragging on oil pan



## 2ocnorb (Oct 21, 2016)

I need some help eliminating interference between the steering centerlink and oil pan on my '65 GTO, especially when the engine warms up. During the rebuild, I replaced the complete suspension with new components. I also put on an aftermarket chrome oil pan, which I noticed doesn't have the clearance feature like the OEM pan that was originally on the engine. Apparently this "dent" was required for the centerlink clearance, hence my issue. Things I've already done: I've installed the thinnest transmission mount available, with no improvement. I also tried to add 3/8" thick spacers under the engine/frame mount brackets, which didn't work at all. The geometry was off just enough that I couldn't get the engine mounts to line up correctly. Are there any other alternatives to raising the engine up? I think I would just need about 1/4". Has anyone used different length (shorter/longer) pitman and idler arms, to move the centerlink away from the oil pan? If so, where can I find these? Also, has anyone tried to physically add a clearance "dent" in the new oil pan to add clearance? Curious if that's possible and how it could be done. Any help would be greatly appreciated!


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## 1968gto421 (Mar 28, 2014)

In _The Legend_ official magazine of the GTOAA, member Mike Spizziri for years has offered a special spacer plate for GTO's that resolves the comon problem you're having.

His contact info is: 215-896-5379
email : [email protected]

Cost is $45 which includes shipping. Email for details.

Hope this helps.


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## O52 (Jan 27, 2019)

Not sure about the 65, but keep in mind the spacers and the frame mounts are not interchangeable. There are right and left sides so the bolt pattern is different. Maybe thats why your first spacers didn't work.


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## 2ocnorb (Oct 21, 2016)

1968gto421 said:


> In _The Legend_ official magazine of the GTOAA, member Mike Spizziri for years has offered a special spacer plate for GTO's that resolves the comon problem you're having.
> 
> His contact info is: 215-896-5379
> email : [email protected]
> ...


Thanks, yes, those were the spacers I tried to use. When installed, the spacers move the motor mount brackets horizontally "inward", due to the angled frame, and the holes for the motor mounts don't line up. There was no way I could get these to work. The correct spacers would shift the mount brackets directly up, (no horizontal shift), to keep the same spacing for the mounts on the engine.


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## 2ocnorb (Oct 21, 2016)

Does anyone have dimensions for the hole locations for the two motor mount brackets?


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## 2ocnorb (Oct 21, 2016)

or know the angle of the crossmember where the engine sits?


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## BLK69JUDGE (Jun 10, 2010)

change the pan ...... ?


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## 2ocnorb (Oct 21, 2016)

BLK69JUDGE said:


> change the pan ...... ?


Ugh... that would mean definitely taking the engine out.... i'll try to avoid that if all possible.😅


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## Lemans guy (Oct 14, 2014)

Yes it would be annoying to pull the engine for this. But in the end it is the right way and the safest way. Steering linkage could hang up on the pan, not good. Instead of racking your brain for a fix that really will be a splint for the problem.

That is an awfully nice looking build, in the end you will want it to be right. Consider just cutting to the chase get the right pan and bolt it on.


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## Old Man Taylor (May 9, 2011)

I ground the top of my center link to get adequate clearance.


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## pontrc (Mar 18, 2020)

Old Man Taylor said:


> I ground the top of my center link to get adequate clearance.


That’s why he is the man!


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## Lemans guy (Oct 14, 2014)

Or I suppose a custom center link could be made to your spec,...


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## 2ocnorb (Oct 21, 2016)

Old Man Taylor said:


> I ground the top of my center link to get adequate clearance.


Any concern over compromising the strength and durability of the center link? I know they are over designed due to being safety related (steering components). How much material did you have to remove?


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## O52 (Jan 27, 2019)

What brand of Center link do you have? I have read that Pro-forged is very close to original as far as design goes.


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## 2ocnorb (Oct 21, 2016)

O52 said:


> What brand of Center link do you have? I have read that Pro-forged is very close to original as far as design goes.


Yep, that's the brand that I put in there. The oil pan I have on the engine now is aftermarket and doesn't have the relief in the front, like the OEM pan did, for clearance (engine is a '73 400). If the new pan had the same small indentation in the front, I think everything would clear just fine.


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## 2ocnorb (Oct 21, 2016)

Lemans guy said:


> Or I suppose a custom center link could be made to your spec,...


Butler Performance maybe??


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## Old Man Taylor (May 9, 2011)

I didn’t measure how much I removed, but it wasn’t a lot. It was very hard to grind off. It’s such a large rod that I don’t see why it would be the weak link. I did it on my racecar that has gone 140 mph.


2ocnorb said:


> Any concern over compromising the strength and durability of the center link? I know they are over designed due to being safety related (steering components). How much material did you have to remove?





2ocnorb said:


> Any concern over compromising the strength and durability of the center link? I know they are over designed due to being safety related (steering components). How much material did you have to remove?



I didn’t measure how much I removed, but it wasn’t a lot. It was very hard to grind off. It’s such a large rod that I don’t see why it would be the weak link. I did it on my racecar that has gone 140 mph.


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## Old Man Taylor (May 9, 2011)

Sorry for my stuttering above, but I'm old.


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## Baaad65 (Aug 29, 2019)

I had the same problem so I found some 1/4" spacers on Ebay for 35.00, they were a bitch to install after everything is in and in the way and trying to get to the nuts through the control arms is a character builder, I actually super glued a nut to my finger tip to hold it in place while I started the bolt. At least yours is apart still and you found the problem I wish I would have seen the center link rubbing when I was installing the motor but to many other things going through my mind at that time. I have a new stock 6 quart oil pan from Butler, just thought if the 1970 455 that was in the car when I got it wasn't rubbing then the '72 400 with new motor mounts would be ok in a '65....guess not.


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## Baaad65 (Aug 29, 2019)

⁸


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## 2ocnorb (Oct 21, 2016)

Baaad65 said:


> I had the same problem so I found some 1/4" spacers on Ebay for 35.00, they were a bitch to install after everything is in and in the way and trying to get to the nuts through the control arms is a character builder, I actually super glued a nut to my finger tip to hold it in place while I started the bolt. At least yours is apart still and you found the problem I wish I would have seen the center link rubbing when I was installing the motor but to many other things going through my mind at that time. I have a new stock 6 quart oil pan from Butler, just thought if the 1970 455 that was in the car when I got it wasn't rubbing then the '72 400 with new motor mounts would be ok in a '65....guess not.


I hear ya! I have a ‘73 400 in the ‘65, new motor mounts and steering linkage. Must be something with the 400’s! I just got a set of spacers from Butler, 3/16” thick. Going to give it a shot and see how much blood, sweat and tears results from my effort. Wish me luck!


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## Baaad65 (Aug 29, 2019)

Good luck and Godspeed, it doesn't look that hard but the nuts in the control arms are visible but that doesn't mean you can get a socket on them, had have half my toolbox under the car...and it's always easier undoing things getting the nuts back up and threaded is way harder thus the idea of super gluing the nut to the tip of my index finger idea. Then for some reason the angle was off so the long motor mount bolt wouldn't line up with the nut but I finally got it, I'm sure the threads don't look good.


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