# 66 tri power setup?!



## Chris-Austria (Dec 23, 2010)

Hi!

What should I check, if the engine will need 2-3 trys to start (when cold)? It starts up 1-2 seconds after turning the key, but goes off very fast. If I hold the engine rpm at 1200-1500 for about 20 seconds after the 2nd or 3rd try it will not turn off after I release the pedal. (1000rpm idle, when warm 600rpm idle). Do I have to adjust the center carburator? How can I improve starting when the engine is cold?

Maybe the cold temperatures outside (30F) have something to do with this?

After the starting problems the engine runs very smooth with no strange noises or something like that 
When I turn it off after some miles driving and switching it back on.. let's say one hour later.. it will start up just perfect!

Can I fix this on my own or do I need a specialist?
Thank you!

Chris


----------



## geeteeohguy (Feb 2, 2008)

Choke adjustment. You set the choke by flooring the gas pedal quickly and releasing it before you turn the key. If set properly, the cloke plate in the middle carb will be closed at this time. The fast idle cam will also be activated. If your choke plate is not closed or partially closed, you need to adjust the rod or perhaps replace the spring, which is under the sheet metal cover on the intake manifold. It's a really simple, fool proof design and usually is trouble free.


----------



## Chris-Austria (Dec 23, 2010)

I checked it today and it won't close when i push the gas pedal once. I also tried to move it to a close-position manually, but the mechanism seems to be stuck at open...
I could see a wire of which I am not sure that it should be there, the red 1.
For adjustments I would have to turn the screw at the white 2?

Here are the pictures:


----------



## geeteeohguy (Feb 2, 2008)

No, the screw at the #2 is not adjustable. You need to disconnect the green clip at the choke rod where it connects to the carb linkage, and determine what's frozen up. The rod, when disconnected, should spring up and down. The choke plate should be able to be closed with finger pressure. Either your choke rod/spring is stuck or your choke plate is.


----------



## Chris-Austria (Dec 23, 2010)

Finger pressure didn't work, I'll disconnect the green clip (the one where my red 1 points at) and see if I can find the problem.
Can I see the spring that could be stuck on one of the pictures? (I could only see the big yellow spring)


----------



## dimitri (Feb 13, 2009)

That linkage looks dry. Try to oil all of the linkage. I use Triflow. It is a Teflon base spray oil, not grease. If your linkage is dirty, use carb cleaner spray first all over the linkage. Work it back and forth. Then oil it.


----------



## geeteeohguy (Feb 2, 2008)

The choke spring is a coil that is located inside the sheet metal box on the intake manifold The choke rod goes from it to the carb. Yes, that linkage is dry as a bone!!!


----------



## Chris-Austria (Dec 23, 2010)

I have carb cleaner and will try it like you said. (bought some time ago to clean a sticky egr valve on my cadillac)
The linkage is the one with the red 1? Or should I clean and oil both sides? (1 and 2)
I only have WD-40 spray and a MOS2 spray.. can I use one of them?


----------



## geeteeohguy (Feb 2, 2008)

Yes, the red 1. Either lube will work just fine.


----------



## dimitri (Feb 13, 2009)

I don't know about MOS2 spray, but WD40 will burn off after 100 miles. Try to find a oil that has teflon in it.


----------



## Chris-Austria (Dec 23, 2010)

Okay, I'll buy one with teflon and try it  
The wire between the carb linkage and the metal line where the red 1 points at needs to be there?


----------



## Chris-Austria (Dec 23, 2010)

I watched again today, thats what I found:

1. The piece of wire is there to hold the plate open all the time, if I remove it, I can move the choke plate to a half closed position. So I think the spring is stuck.
2. The spring is under this metal plate that can be seen on the last picture? (under the center carb, mounted with one screw?)

How should it work? The choke plate should be closed after pushing the gas pedal one time when the engine is cold? And after the engine has warmed up, the choke plate should stay fully open all the time?
So except problems with staring it up, this problem won't hurt anything until it gets fixed? Or should the choke plate at the center carb be able to change it's position during driving?


----------



## BearGFR (Aug 25, 2008)

Chris-Austria said:


> I watched again today, thats what I found:
> 
> 1. The piece of wire is there to hold the plate open all the time, if I remove it, I can move the choke plate to a half closed position. So I think the spring is stuck.
> 2. The spring is under this metal plate that can be seen on the last picture? (under the center carb, mounted with one screw?)
> ...


There is a coiled bi-metal spring that's underneath that little sheet metal box on the intake manifold. The other end of the rod hooks into this spring. When the spring is "cold", it's supposed to move that rod and close the choke valve (and also move the "fast idle" cam into position to speed up the idle). The fine adjustment is accomplished I think by slightly bending the rod. As the engine heats up, the spring also warms up, opens the valve and "de-activates" the fast idle cam. I'd start by removing the metal box and spring from the manifold and make sure the spring isn't broken or jammed, and that the rod is connected properly. Even with the engine hot you should be able to "force" the choke valve closed with your fingers, as that would just cause the rod to move the spring some. If you disconnect that rod from the choke valve and still aren't able to move the rod up and down any at all, then you've probably got a problem in the spring assembly. If everything is working properly, the choke valve/plate in the carburetor should be closed (or very nearly so) when the engine is "cold" and remain fully open when it's completely warmed up. When the intake manifold and surrounding metal is cold, it causes the fuel to tend to drop out of suspension from the air flow before it reaches the cylinders resulting in the engine "seeing" a very lean fuel mixture, sometimes too lean for it to run. Partially closing off the air flow via the choke valve restricts the air going into the engine to correct this lean condition until the intake path can get "warm enough" to keep this from happening.

The purpose of the mechanism on the other side at "2" is to provide a way to open the choke valve in proportion to the throttle position so that as you open the throttle the engine doesn't starve for air when the choke is "on".

The reason you have to step on the throttle once to allow the choke to activate when the engine is cold, is that the fast idle cam will be "against the step" with the idle adjustment screw holding the cam and choke linkage in the open position even though the engine has cooled and there is now tension on the coiled spring. Opening the throttle moves the idle screw away from the cam and allows the spring to operate, closing the choke valve.

Bear


----------



## Chris-Austria (Dec 23, 2010)

As always, a very good description with all information I wanted, thanks! 
Now I understand how it should work, I'll check the whole mechanism and replace or clean bad parts.

I also have/had the problem that when the engine is at operating temp and I switch it off for about 2-3 minutes, I need to turn the ignition for 3-4 seconds to start it again. Most times the engine starts up just perfect when it is warm, if I wait a little bit longer than just 2-3 minutes it works every time!


----------

