# convertible top not working



## xcmac26 (Dec 1, 2008)

We've got good weather right now, so it's not a big deal, but i'm sure a non-functioning top will become a big deal very soon.

Worked when the body shop took it down to add on the trim, they moved the switch (kind of guinea rigged) and now it's not working. Will try to check the wires in the morning when there's more light, but have any of you run into this kind of problem. works one day, not the next?


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## 05GTO (Oct 6, 2004)

They may have shorted the wiring and popped a fuse, that's the first place I would check,


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## geeteeohguy (Feb 2, 2008)

I've had the same problem. It's a heavy duty switch, and can degrade over time. Could be high resistance in the switch. I just bought a new one from Ames, I've yet to put it in. Could be a bad connection at the butt connector at the motor, in the trunk, too. Use ATF in the system, not brake fluid. I was using brake fluid 20 years ago, and it absorbed so much moisture that it would freeze up the pump impeller in about 4 months. After overhauling the pump motor 3 times, I flushed the system and filled it with ATF. No problems since 1996.


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## xcmac26 (Dec 1, 2008)

well it's nothing terribly drastic. Got under the dash, poked around and pulled the fuse block. the 40A fuse ckip(correct term?) is completely blown out in back. wire's melted. Remembering issues i've had from the get-go, the top's been connected to the 20A fuse just below. So now I've got to ask, can anyone with a conv. post up some pics of the wiring to that 40A fuse? There's one loose wire back there, but I don't want to do this by trial and error.

also, are those fuse clips available at autozone or am i stuck ordering through a restoration company?


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## xcmac26 (Dec 1, 2008)

bump


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## xcmac26 (Dec 1, 2008)

new switch, not the problem. either the pump's locked up or something's mechanically wrong with the top. It's pulling waaaay too many amps (wired to battery and blew a cheapo switch from ratshack. Still relatively new to the game here so...do i need to pull the rear seat to get the pump out? What's the best way to bleed the old fluid? parts needed aside from a jug of transmission fluid? tools needed to add new fluid?

any help from the convertible guys would be HUGELY appreciated


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## geeteeohguy (Feb 2, 2008)

Pump is in the trunk under a carboard housing. You gotta crawl in there. remove the pump motor from the car. Use a line wrench on the hose fittings, and keep rags handy. You'll need them. Be careful not to tweak or damage the plastic hoses. With the pump on the bench, you'll notice that the pump motor cover/reservoir is held to pump body with a long bolt with a triangular head. use the special socket (I've never seen one) or pliers. Get a pan to cach the fluid. With the reservoir off, you can check the pump impeller, motor, and the brushes. I'll bet your motor is shorted or has a LOT of resistance and needs to be replaced. You can get brushes, etc.,, I believe, but I would be inclined to install a new motor. As for bleeding, fill the pump res. up thru the rubber plugged hole in the res. body until at the hole with ATF. Bleed by lowering/raising top. Sometimes, to flush out old fluid, cracking a line while activating the pump helps. Good luck. Not hard, just messy!


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## xcmac26 (Dec 1, 2008)

unfortunately things get really hard when you can't find the right size wrench!! :willy:

back another day, ugh :shutme

thankfully a buddy of mine's got a full mechanics set, tends to help


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## geeteeohguy (Feb 2, 2008)

I guarantee you won't have the wrench or socket for the pump reservoir bolt. Not to worry, though. It is a snug, not tight fit (it goes into the aluminum motor body), and it has an o ring seal, (I think...it's been years). Pliers will do it, and if careful, you won't chew up the fastener. No worries! You DO need a line or Flare nut wrench for the brass line fittings that attach the hoses, though. Very easy to screw those up, otherwise.


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## xcmac26 (Dec 1, 2008)

i'm just referring to the brass fluid line fittings. nothing on this car seems to match up properly, so i'm just making sure i've got the right conv. pump...one tee fitting on top, one on bottom, pop those and i can move the top manually? I can't get to the ground wire screw with the top down so i need to push things around after breaking hydraulic pressure. then worry about the motor/pump. wishing i were one of the many trust fund babies here in houston so i could work on this thing today


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## geeteeohguy (Feb 2, 2008)

DO NOT ry to put the top down manually without first removing the rams. There is one ram per side, in the side wells. If you try to lower the top with the rams connected mechanically to the frame (Lines or no lines--doesn't matter), you stand a good chance of bending the top frame and damaging the rams. They are fairly easy to unbolt. Then, to lower the top, stand in the middle of the car and lower it while holding the front bow at the center point. Don't **** the top or you can tweak the frame.


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## geeteeohguy (Feb 2, 2008)

I don't know why that post starred out my word twist. Also, almost forgot: you have a beautiful new paintjob on the car. A lot of these systems were filled with brake fluid. It can shoot all over the place, and it will remove your paint. Be sure to use fender covers/blankets/whatever to keep fluid off of your fenders, etc. when removing the rams, etc.


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## xcmac26 (Dec 1, 2008)

grrrrrreat!! :willy:

Top's already down, trying to get it up so i can access the electrical ground screw for the pump. I'll make sure to disconnect the rams 1st, thanks for the warning! hopefully they won't be too hard to access with the top down. Should make the fluid easier to contain...i'll be sure to keep a fresh pan and rags handy when i get to this. 

no line wrenches at the sears i visited last night, no craftsman tools whatsoever. WTF!


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## Rukee (Feb 8, 2007)

WTF is right. :confused


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## xcmac26 (Dec 1, 2008)

alright, so i crawled into the trunk to disconnect the rams tonight. lo and behold i can't get to them. decided to rearrange the garage so i can fit the bikes, shelf, motorcycle and car in simultaneously. think i'm gonna put a tennis ball on the bike's footpeg for safety's sake. tight squeeze but got it all in there.

anyway, my next question. am i pulling the back seat to get at those rams with the top down or am i just generally screwed?


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## xcmac26 (Dec 1, 2008)

bump

Still haven't figured out how to access the rams with the top down. hints? I could just get an angled screwdriver to remove the ground nut and rebuild the pump but it's a PITA getting in there with the top down.


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## geeteeohguy (Feb 2, 2008)

I did not realize the top was DOWN. HOW did it get down? There is no way you're going to access the stuff you need to with the top mechanism lowered. No way. You're gonna have to get another person, and both of you stand in the back seat area and grab the header and try and pull the top up. You may well bend the top frame, but that's life. Just don't put the top down manually again against the rams if they're non operational. Disconnect them first!!!


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## xcmac26 (Dec 1, 2008)

shop got it down before i took delivery. i can crawl into the trunk and get to the pump which would let me disconnect the lines before moving the top. at least that way the rams would have less resistance and (hopefully) decrease the chance of me screwing up the mechanism. more fun! :shutme


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## geeteeohguy (Feb 2, 2008)

Yes, you're right. Disconnect the lines. The rams will pull easier for sure.


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## xcmac26 (Dec 1, 2008)

FINALLY found a set of line wrenches at one of the local autozones. great neck...here's hoping they don't snap 1st use :willy:


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## geeteeohguy (Feb 2, 2008)

They won't snap, but if they're low-end they will round off the brass fittings, and then it's vice-grip time. But, in my experience, Great Neck stuff is ok, so it should be FINE!!!


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## xcmac26 (Dec 1, 2008)

so yea, i placed the pan rather poorly and now there's brake fluid ALL over the trunk. Thankfully not on any of the new top material. wiped it up best i could. tops up now, which is a good place to start...onto rebuilding the motor


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## xcmac26 (Dec 1, 2008)

resurrecting this thread...

anyone know of a pump rebuild shop. i'm striking out here in town.


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## xcmac26 (Dec 1, 2008)

::bump::


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## Rukee (Feb 8, 2007)

Have you called ThePartsPlaceInc.com?


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## xcmac26 (Dec 1, 2008)

I haven't but will now...


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## geeteeohguy (Feb 2, 2008)

I rebuilt my own motor, but you may not feel comfortable doing that. It was not hard., just new brushes and an O ring plus an NOS sourced impeller. Hemmings Motor News has a couple of motor and ruam rebuilders that have been advertising there for a looong time, and they are known to be reputable and fairly priced. Remember, use ATF, NOT brake fluid, shen you refill the system!!


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## xcmac26 (Dec 1, 2008)

Not terrified of rebuilding it...but when i took it apart all kinds of rotted rubber fell out. Not sure what it's from or where to get it or even what it'd look like considering the number of tiny ground up pieces. If there were such a thing as a rebuild "kit" i'd get into it...but given the options, new pump seems like a somewhat attractive option right now.


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## 68greengoat (Sep 15, 2005)

xcmac26 said:


> If there were such a thing as a rebuild "kit" i'd get into it...but given the options, new pump seems like a somewhat attractive option right now.


Given the time involved rebuilding one, especially if you've never done it before, and the frustrations(nothing ever seems to work out like it's supposed to, at least in my world) a new pump might be the ticket. Did you ever price one? Maybe weigh the cost of a new one compared to whats involved rebuilding your existing one and determine if it's worth it. If you haven't already...


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