# turn signal switch replacement



## gotyorgoat (Jun 19, 2011)

Can someone give me some brief instruction on removing the turn signal switch? Do I need to pop the top off of the steering wheel and remove the wheel? I know that the bottom of the harness comes out of the bottom of the steering column, but how do I get to the top part? I don't want to break some other 45 year old piece of plastic in the process of doing it wrong.

Thanks,


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## Instg8ter (Sep 28, 2010)

yes the wheel needs to come off, I replaced the switch, then ended up having to take the whole thing apart again and replace the column harness as the brake lights and turn signals route through it and mine had been spliced in at some time in the past.


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## geeteeohguy (Feb 2, 2008)

If you're new to this, mark the wheel hub and the steering shaft with a sharpie or a small punch so you can install the wheel in the same position when you're done. Take your time and be careful...the stuff in there doesn't like a heavy hand.


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## teamwoody72 (May 23, 2008)

Agreed. I learned this the hard way


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## 67GTOCoupe (Mar 6, 2013)

All pretty good advice above. I have litterally replaced hundreds of these types of swithces over the years. The basic Saginaw steering column lay out stayed the same for GM and Chrysler up to as late as the mid 1990's.
Here are list of simple things you can do to make your life easier and make the job more fool proof.
Step one is always make sure the from wheels are straight then center the steering wheel by eye as best you can. Sound simple but I why not right? Every wheel I have pulled has had a small alignment notch usally at the 12 o'clock position on the inside of the hole on the wheel where it slides over the shaft. It is usally a small section that is smooth with no teeth and it will line up with the similar section on the shaft. Still it would not hurt to mark it. 
Step two us like way already pointed out earlier once you get the steering wheel removed with the puller just about everything you will encounter under the wheel will be made of plastic and almost 50 year old plastic. When tightning screw go easy. Snug them down and then check to see of the switch is secure. If you crank down you will only crush the switch or even worse strip the thread in the upper bowl which would be very bad.
Remove the switch lever and the screw for the emergency flasher first. They screw into the switch from the outside and you can not remove the switch while they are still attached. Be carefull and do not lose the spring when you take the screw out of the emergency flasher some cars have a spring behind it and if you just pull the screw and remove the switch you could lose the spring.
A simple trick that I always used to make the removal of the old switch is to cut the plug of the end of the old switch. That way all you have to do is pull the wire up through the small opening instead of tring to drag the large connector up through. Be sure you have the right connector though! Once I unscew the switch I go under the dash then tug the unscrewed switch and look to see witch plug is being pulled up to be sure then I pull the plug back and make sure I am pulling the switch back down.
Getting the new plug down the colomn is a big pain and the most difficult part always. A long thin screwdriver helps but go easy. It might take several attempts before it decides it want to go. Good luck!
There are many different part numbers for the GM cars. Before you start digging in match up the features of the switch then go underneath and make sure the plug is correct.


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## gotyorgoat (Jun 19, 2011)

Thanks for the info. Do I really need a puller to get the wheel off or can I just give it a tug after I remove the nut? I guess I will find out.

Any risk of breaking the center cap by just prying it off? 

Thanks


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## BearGFR (Aug 25, 2008)

What year car? On my 69, the switch, wiring harness, and connector all come out as one piece from the top after you remove the steering wheel. There's a trick to getting the connector to come out without hanging up.

Bear


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## Rukee (Feb 8, 2007)

I tape the plug to the wires to keep it straight with the wires and it makes sliding it down the tube a little easer. Sometimes I've used a single wire through the tube and then tape the plug to the wire and use that to help pull the plug and harness down the tube as well. GLHF.


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## 68greengoat (Sep 15, 2005)

gotyorgoat said:


> Thanks for the info. Do I really need a puller to get the wheel off or can I just give it a tug after I remove the nut? I guess I will find out.
> 
> Any risk of breaking the center cap by just prying it off?
> 
> Thanks


You'll need a puller, they're cheap......


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## olde-goat (Feb 1, 2009)

x3 on the puller. You do not want to risk damaging splines etc. Try Harbor Freight, inexpensive, not the best quality but will work.


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## etewald (Dec 27, 2011)

I bought a really nice puller from O'reilly's for like $14. I'll probably use it 2 more times ever, but at least it's in the arsenal now.


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## gotyorgoat (Jun 19, 2011)

Ok, so I seriously screwed this up. I took the column apart into about 25 pieces and can not get it back together.

The very back retainer ring slides over a bump and then twists to the right. I can not keep it straight long enough to get everyuting else back on over it. Buy the time I thread the screw through the new switch, it has twisted back.


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## gotyorgoat (Jun 19, 2011)

Got it installed with a few extra pieces left over. Could not get the springs that go over the 3 bolts to work, so I left them out. Also left blinker only works when out of park. Also flasher did not line up with hole in column housing. Also, brake lights still don't work. Basically a big waste of time and money. You win some, you loose some.


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## Rukee (Feb 8, 2007)

can you post pictures of the left over parts?


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## jjmnav (Dec 6, 2016)

Replaced switch on my 68 a year ago and it has failed after only a few hundred miles. First was cancelling became ineffective THEN I turned on Hazards and cannot get them off again. Can anyone PLEASE advise who supplies switches that will survive for decades and thousands of miles like the original did????


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## soberjoe (Nov 28, 2016)

jjmnav said:


> Replaced switch on my 68 a year ago and it has failed after only a few hundred miles. First was cancelling became ineffective THEN I turned on Hazards and cannot get them off again. Can anyone PLEASE advise who supplies switches that will survive for decades and thousands of miles like the original did????




I used replacement part # TW20 on my ‘69
The male plug end on the new switch DID NOT match up with the 48 year old female plug end on the base of the steering column so I simply swapped it out, using the original male plug end.
Just carefully pop out the 10 individual wire leads from the new plug and place them in the exact same order in the original plug.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## bigblock (Nov 4, 2015)

*Disconnect The Battery !*

Disconnect the battery before any electrical work .


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## FooGee (Aug 10, 2011)

I took pictures when taking mine apart for restoration. Maybe these will help you get it back together. http://lavrik.net/wp/2016/10/1969-gto-steering-colum-pictures/


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## Hoopersgarage (Jan 20, 2014)

soberjoe said:


> I used replacement part # TW20 on my ‘69
> The male plug end on the new switch DID NOT match up with the 48 year old female plug end on the base of the steering column so I simply swapped it out, using the original male plug end.
> Just carefully pop out the 10 individual wire leads from the new plug and place them in the exact same order in the original plug.
> 
> ...


FooGee - how did you remove the terminals from the curved plastic housing? Where is the locking tab on the wire terminal end? Tnx


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## PontiacJim (Dec 29, 2012)

Hoopersgarage said:


> FooGee - how did you remove the terminals from the curved plastic housing? Where is the locking tab on the wire terminal end? Tnx


Pic #1 The trick I learned is to use a small Xacto knife blade and insert it into the side of the metal contact. Insert it deep enough to release the small locking tang that allows you to pull the contact & the cut wire out. The metal contact is split along the top, so inserting the blade and giving it a light twist while pushing in will squeeze/collapse the metal contact and let the tip of the knife compress the locking tang on the side of the metal contact. (Don't get crazy when twisting the metal contact trying to collapse it at the top - you can over do it and crush the contact together) Then you just pull it out. Once you get the hang of it, it goes quickly and easily.

Pic #2 is the tip of the blade pointing to the small locking tang on the side of the metal contact.

Pic #3 shows the '68 connector with 2 metal contacts removed. You can see the channels in the side of the square holes that the locking tangs fit into. You can also see the split/air gap at the top of a couple of the metal contacts. This is what you are compressing together with a twist of the Xacto blade allowing the blade to get past the locking tangs so you can pull the metal contacts out.


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