# Painless wiring kit install help is needed



## Jonbory1969 (Jul 30, 2012)

Hi all I am new to the forum here and hope I am not asking a too commonly solved issue. I am working on my 1969 GTO installing a painless wiring kit I followed the instructions as best I could and used a service manual with wiring diagrams to trace original wiring. When I connected the last wire the onlynthingnwhich seems to work is the brake lights. The ignition clicks once but starter will not crank and turn signals do not work, also the electric fuel pump does not turn on. I think there is an issue in the wiring of the ignition since I had to reuse the old pigtail connector since the painless one did not fit into the ignition switch on the column. Anyone who has some inset into this issue would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks


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## Eric Animal (Oct 28, 2007)

1st- check the battery and it's connections. 2nd- Check ALL grounds. We will go from there. Eric


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## Jonbory1969 (Jul 30, 2012)

Battery is charged and connected properly, grounds are all tight and showing good continuity.


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## FlambeauHO (Nov 24, 2011)

If you suspect the ignition then get a voltmeter, get on your back with the diagram and start reading that harness with power off at the plug on the column. Go one wire at a time from left to right and compare results to the diagram. If all is correct then turn the ignition on and repeat the process paying attention to the grounds and accessory wires.


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## Eric Animal (Oct 28, 2007)

Also, try "jumping the starter out to make sure it isn't jammed, defective , or wired wrong......I would, however suspect the column/ign. switch issue.
Others here will chime in...all good...we'll get 'er going, don't worry!!:cheers


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## crustysack (Oct 5, 2008)

you can get a new pigtail from delmar wire (DEL MAR WIRE REPAIR INC) for starters, this place has all gm connectors CHEAP


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## Jonbory1969 (Jul 30, 2012)

Thanks for all the help so far guys it seems to have been an issue with the ign switch needing to be rebuilt, must have hit it with my head too many times during the install, and a possible bad solenoid. Getting a new starter tomorrow thanks to a lifetime warranty and will install a ground strap to ensure a good ground to the starter. Let you know how the starter swap works out. Brake lights blower motor and fuel pump all turn on now that ignition switch is working. I will give an update when I hook up the new starter and I am sure run into other problems.


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## Eric Animal (Oct 28, 2007)

JUST FYI..."new" and/or rebuilt starters are notorious for malfunctions these days.......just because you replaced it, dosen't mean it's good....UNFORTUNATELY...a mechanics nightmare!!:willy::cheers Eric


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## Jonbory1969 (Jul 30, 2012)

I bridged the post on the new starter it seems to be working. When I turn the key however it just clicks once and then nothing. The first try it clicked and whirred a lot but then the second try nothing. It should just be spinning. I am getting power to the main post and there's continuity between the neutral safety and power when the key is in cranking position. Ground I have wired to the back post of the starter just to ensure a good ground. Ideas of what to check next?


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## crustysack (Oct 5, 2008)

how about the battery cable terminals? and the battery cables themselves


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## Eric Animal (Oct 28, 2007)

The whirrrrring should be the bendix gear turning....this indicates that the starter is functioning...IS it shimmed correctly?


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## FlambeauHO (Nov 24, 2011)

If you have power to start position and bridging terminals is sufficient to crank then you have a bad solenoid. To double check, jumper from positive terminal to the start position at the solenoid, if it still doesn't crank, replace solenoid and or starter assembly.


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## FlambeauHO (Nov 24, 2011)

True E, if you are hearing whirring during the procedes you need to check for engagement of the starter but if it's just clicking, proceed as aforementioned.


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## Jonbory1969 (Jul 30, 2012)

Terminals and cables are fine the connection between the firewall with the engine wiring and the fuse panel had to be tightened. Apparently you cannot trust the factory to tighten this enough. Headlightswork starter spins have not tried starting the car yet tai lights and backup lights work. No turn signals though this may be a ground issue. Thank you all for your help with the starter sorry it turned out to be an operator error.


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## BearGFR (Aug 25, 2008)

Connections to the starter: Should have the fat battery cable plus the "red" wire that carries power on to the rest of the electrical system on the big post on the solenoid. The 'start' wire (purple/violet on my 69) should go to the S post on the solenoid. (The R post on the solenoid isn't used).

Disconnect the battery, use your ohmmeter/continuity tester to see if you've got a connection to ground through the "purple" wire when you turn the key to start position. If you do, then you know at least that part of your ignition switch is good. Next, ground the purple wire to the frame, check for continuity between the smaller red wire and ground also with the key in start position. If you've got continuity there, then you know power is getting into the rest of your electrical system at least far enough to reach the ignition switch. Now connect the purple wire to the correct post on the solenoid and do the same test. If you've got continuity still, then the solenoid is probably ok. Connect everything back up - it oughta do -something-.

Bear


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## Eric Animal (Oct 28, 2007)

Turn signals..check fuse...bulbs....ground.....happy to hear everything is "coming together"....Eric


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