# Researching for a monster build...



## kywhitelightning (Oct 28, 2009)

Let me start with my goals. ~800WHP, turbocharged, with the manual trans mission, and no N2O. 10 second car, maybe close to dipping into the 9's. Some weight reduction. Drivetrain loss is estimated at 16-18% requiring me to get at least 950HP to the crank. I will be shooting for 975-1000 but, the wheels are what counts so it should pan out to be right around 800 to the wheels.

I have been researching over the past week for a future build of a 04-06 GTO. I'm not sure which year to look for because I am really concerned about how extensive just the shortblock mods will have to be. I haven't found much info yet about lowering compression but, I just started looking. I want to lower the compression to 8.0/1 if possible. I was wanting to accomplish this with merely a piston swap but most pistons I have found would only bring it down to 8.3/1. I don't want to space the heads away from the block to accomplish the change in CR. I am also concerned about the stock block's rotating assembly strength. Should I look into getting a full forged rotaing assembly or should any of the stock components be capable of surviving? Any advice where to look would be appreciated.

I have found the turbo I feel will power this beast and seems to me will be quite efficient especially for drag racing. Garrett's GT4718 with the 92.7mm turbine wheel should give a decent spool. Can you say 30+psi:cool. Any opinions would be appreciated.

I have also found the injectors I will be using with a fuel pump to push all the flow I will ever need. The Aeromotive A1000 11101 fuel pump will power beasts far superior to what I am looking to do. A set of PTE 75lb/hr or 780cc injectors will suffice for ~1000 crank HP. This combo will be regulated by Aeromotives A1000 13101 AFPR. W/M injection I feel is a must. A Snow Performance Stage 2 setup should suffice with a 375ml/min nozzle and a 625ml/min nozzle. I am currently running the Stage 2 on my Mitsubishi and I love it. I can actually feel the difference with the W/M on and with it off. Race gas plus W/M should give me some good assurance in the detonation department.

These are just a start of the parts I know I will be needing and I will update this as I fine tune this build list. Next is clutch/pressure plate combo and tuning device. Any thoughts?

Any input to this thread is truely appreciated as long as it is constructive.

Jeff


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## Robocop (May 9, 2009)

I have a friend with a 06 GTO auto making 880 hp to the wheels. He's got a pro charger, 6.6 liters with heads, cam, Fast intake, methanol injection etc.


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## kywhitelightning (Oct 28, 2009)

Robocop said:


> I have a friend with a 06 GTO auto making 880 hp to the wheels. He's got a pro charger, 6.6 liters with heads, cam, Fast intake, methanol injection etc.


Has he done anything to the drivetrain after the transmission besides different rearend gears?

Jeff


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## jpalamar (Jul 22, 2008)

You won't get to that kinda power unless you swap out everything. Nothing stock is going to really handle that power. And I mean everything, suspension, motor, drivetrain.


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## jetstang (Nov 5, 2008)

jpalamar said:


> You won't get to that kinda power unless you swap out everything. Nothing stock is going to really handle that power. And I mean everything, suspension, motor, drivetrain.


I agree, that power level should require an LS-X block, big clutch and better rearend with a 4 link. 
If you aren't building a drag car, just a 900 HP street car, then blower and Methanol should get you to that power level and last at least a couple minutes.


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## kywhitelightning (Oct 28, 2009)

Just saw that a twin turbo GTO ran one low 10 sec pass and a high 9 sec pass with stock rearend gears and posi trac. One less thing to worry about.

LS1GTO.com Forums - ohios first and only 9 second gto!

It can be done with the stock rearend. Drive shaft I will change to a one piecer.

Found a clutch/flywheel/pp combo that should hold up. Zoom D2 twin disc kit. It's rated at 920FT LBs of torque. I may look elsewhere but this should hold.

Jeff


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## Poncho Dan (Jun 30, 2009)

You'll probably want to swap to a live axle if your sole intention for it is to be a "drag queen"... it would would kill 99% of your wheelhop problem in 1 mod. Lets not forget relocating the gas tank so you have room for a tub job.

BTW, LS2 intake manifolds will not accept anything higher than 58lb/hr injectors, I looked into that a while back. They get too tall or something like that.


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## kywhitelightning (Oct 28, 2009)

Poncho Dan said:


> You'll probably want to swap to a live axle if your sole intention for it is to be a "drag queen"... it would would kill 99% of your wheelhop problem in 1 mod. Lets not forget relocating the gas tank so you have room for a tub job.
> 
> BTW, LS2 intake manifolds will not accept anything higher than 58lb/hr injectors, I looked into that a while back. They get too tall or something like that.


Thanks for the great info man!! Are you speaking of saturated injectors or peak hold injectors? This will be a little different than just a normal injector swap. I will have to put resistors in series with these injectors so I don't blow the PCM(Switching from high impedence to low impedence). I will check the demension differences now that I know that. If nothing else the manifold could be modified to fit the new ones as a lot of this scenario will probably be happening as I plan.

I am beginning to sway a little towards the LS1 04 GTO as the LS1 seems to be supported a whole lot more. Found a 383 stroker kit that will drop the CR but only to 8.5/1. I may call some piston manufacturers to see if they can custom build 8.0/1. This may open up some space for some larger valves. I plan on making all my power from boost and not from timing advance and CR. The turbo I chose has a lot of breath left after I hit my mark so that is where I want the power to come from.

I am wanting to do as little to the drivetrain as possible but you make a very valid point with the axle swap. Thanks again, keep the comments coming.

Jeff


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## Poncho Dan (Jun 30, 2009)

I think its continuous, but I could be wrong. Actually I think you were right about Impedance, and that's why they can't go bigger than ~60. Obviously, if the injectors don't fit, there's other manifolds you can use.

This was where I was reading about it: FAST PRECISION-FLOW FUEL INJECTOR PART NUMBERS and FAST PRECISION-FLOW FUEL INJECTORS


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## GM4life (Mar 18, 2007)

I just skimmed thru the thread. The stock LSx crank and block can support 800-1000 hp. Would I go forged, yes. You really don't need a monster LSX block to support that kind of power unless you want it. A _built_ iron 6.0L block that is stroked will do the job. LSX blocks are nice, hell after seeing one in in aussie GTO pump out over 1100rwhp with wheel spin with a big Vortec that impressed me. The stock ECM may or may not be able to handle large injectors also, people seem to go with aftermarket controllers. May have to do some homework on that one.


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## kywhitelightning (Oct 28, 2009)

GM4life said:


> I just skimmed thru the thread. The stock LSx crank and block can support 800-1000 hp. Would I go forged, yes. You really don't need a monster LSX block to support that kind of power unless you want it. A _built_ iron 6.0L block that is stroked will do the job. LSX blocks are nice, hell after seeing one in in aussie GTO pump out over 1100rwhp with wheel spin with a big Vortec that impressed me. The stock ECM may or may not be able to handle large injectors also, people seem to go with aftermarket controllers. May have to do some homework on that one.


Keeping the block is the plan. The rotating assembly is my concern, but before I get the stroker kit I will make sure it is forged. I may just look into doing a simple bore with a piston swap and rebearing everything as far as the bottom end is concerned.

I would like to piggyback the PCM but if I need a standalone engine controller then so be it. Most piggyback controllers will only allow for 50% larger injectors and 75lb injectors are pretty friggin large. I don't know yet what size the stock injectors are so a standalone may be neccesary. I already determined that the Diablosport is not for me but I haven't looked at the HPT setup yet.

Keep the good info coming!!

Jeff


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## MJGTOWISH (Jun 15, 2006)

*I like this guy.... I like him alot

$$$ on the drive train

Trans(i need to do my homework)

Clutch stage four(+ Al flywheel) 808$
Twin disk Clutch(kit) 1260.00$

Drive Shaft carbon fiber 1,200$

Pedders Drag(GTO Pure Drag Race only ) 1,800$

OR

Pedders Race(GTO Track Extreme) 3,050

Rear CV shafts 1,000$(set)

BILLET AXLE STUBS 800$ (set)

Sub frame connectors 439$

motor/trans mounts 200$

HARROP DIFFERENTIAL COVER 500$

Drag version Twin clutch 7,199$
Drag version Stage 4 clutch 6,747$

Race version Twin Clutch 8,449$
Race version Stage 4 clutch 7,997$*


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## MJGTOWISH (Jun 15, 2006)

*Also add about 2,500 for brakes if you wanat to race it, also Haltech seems to be the only ones that make custom ecu's that will work on our cars this one infact (Haltech Sport 1000) or (Haltech Sport 2000)*


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## kywhitelightning (Oct 28, 2009)

MJGTOWISH said:


> *I like this guy.... I like him alot
> 
> $$$ on the drive train
> 
> ...


Clutch and drive shaft seem to be the weak links as per the link in the previous post(9 sec car on stock rearend). The suspension components seem to only aid in wheel hop. Motor mounts are going to get replaced. I use poly's in my Mitsu and I really like them. Any input as far as whether they will be sufficient for this? I think I will look into coilovers for the suspension. Adjustable dampening is a nice feature to have, again something I like on my Mitsu.



MJGTOWISH said:


> *Also add about 2,500 for brakes if you wanat to race it, also Haltech seems to be the only ones that make custom ecu's that will work on our cars this one infact (Haltech Sport 1000) or (Haltech Sport 2000)*


$2500 for brakes:confused? There are usually 2 lanes to turn around at the dragstrip. I will use the second. I highly doubt this car will see 9's but it's nice to have high hopes. I put high dollar brakes on the front of my Mitsu and have been kicking myself ever since I put them on. Larger calipers I feel are probably not for me and drilled and slotted rotors really only address heat problems associated with auto-Xing and road coarsing.

Good call on the Haltech:cheers. The 2000 looks like the winner. The 1000 only has 4 injector drivers. The 2000 has 12. Speed density here we come and it has boost control along with a 2-step. Very nice, very nice indeed sir.

Jeff


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## kywhitelightning (Oct 28, 2009)

Boy, have I been digging to find answers. I have decided to focus the build on a 2004 GTO. The LS1 engine seems to have a ton of aftermarket support wheras the LS2, ehh let's just say, not so much. Anybody care to explain the differences besides the obvious, displacement.

The Haltech idea may be scrapped as these cars have COP ignition requiring 8 ignition drivers and the Haltech only has 6 drivers. Although they claim to be capable of supporting 12 cylinder engines, they would definitely have to be waste spark ignition. Unless I'm completely off base here, this is where I stand with the Haltech. I will attempt to contact someone more familiar with this device to see if it can control 8 cylinder COP ignition with the 6 drivers. If it can, then it's a done deal and will be the brains of my beast. Their literature shows LS1 as being capatible.

Just looked into the size specifications of the turbo and WOW!!!!! That thing is 12"x12". 6"compressor inlet and a 3.5" outlet. This poses a very interesting question, will it even fit in the engine bay? I see a few prochargers sitting high on the left side of the engine bay and thought that it may have enough room to fit there but, after running the numbers I'm not so sure anymore. Good engine bay pictures I believe is what I need. What is over in that area that can be removed or relocated?

Again thanks for any input in advance.

Jeff


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