# 455 arp main cap studs "assy issues"



## SKIDLOADER10 (Sep 3, 2010)

hi, I'm building a 1970 455 for my 1972 lemans sport convertable.
i decided to use arp main cap studs,which has turned out to be a huge paint in the butt. first , the studs hit the new 3/4 windage tray i purchased, so i then cut 4 holes to clear the nuts/studs.i test fit the windage tray,and come to find out one of the rod nuts was going to hit the inside of the tray during rotation.i then shimmed the windage tray
up using 3 washers in each both hole location raising the tray about
1/8-3/16. i had purchased a Melling high volume oil pump after installing the tray the oil pump hit the tray,so thin i had to grind some material
of of the pickup tube boss to get it to clear.i then tried to test fit the 
oil pan that i had,it was a newer pontiac oil pan,i did have to modify
the front of the pan to get it to fit over the number 1 main cap studs.
i though i was in the clear, but i discovered that the windage tray,was
hitting on the one side of the oil pan. does anyone have any ideas 
on how to elimate the interference?. did the older pre 1971 oil pans have any more depth in the front portion as that is where the interference is now. thanks in advance


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## Pinion head (Jan 3, 2015)

If the 3/4 windage tray is a factory piece, the 455 windage tray will have a big 5 stamped into it, early '70's 400 engines used a different 3/4 tray, and have to be beat on, or shimmed up off the two factory 455 main caps so there is no interference. 

With main studs, the studs probably protrude out further, I have at least one nice '65-70 pan that's been vatted, and several '71-72 pans i could jig up, but in years of selling cores, never ran across a difference in the depth of the front of the earlier style drain pan, versus the later oilpans.


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## SKIDLOADER10 (Sep 3, 2010)

thanks for the info,the tray is a new one that I purchased. its turning out to be a huge pain in the butt,along with my new studs,yes they do stick out farther to eliminate the issue I had to heat up and beat the front of the oil pan in 2 places. the tray is hitting the sides of my oil pan,not by much I have tweaked it a bit I guess I have more fit up to do.

in the long run if I keep having issues im gonna toss it,and assemble the motor without it. I do hate to do that though

thanks.


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## ALKYGTO (Mar 29, 2010)

Main studs? You did have the block line honed/bored with these, right?


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## SKIDLOADER10 (Sep 3, 2010)

*line boring*

i had my local machine shop check the alignment on all my main caps as i wasn't sure if they were original
the the block, everything was perfect,would i still need to line bore the block???

thanks

Tom


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## ALKYGTO (Mar 29, 2010)

I'm a machinist, but not an automotive machist. I've always heard that studs clamp the main caps differently than bolts so, even with doweled caps to have the mains line honed. I have had all my engines built with main studs line honed.


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## SKIDLOADER10 (Sep 3, 2010)

thanks for the info it's much appreciated. i too was a machinist long ago.


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## ALKYGTO (Mar 29, 2010)

I would say to put the crank in and plastic gauge it/see how it spins. If it spins freely and gauges good I would have no worries.


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## SKIDLOADER10 (Sep 3, 2010)

i have the crank in pistons in and it spins pretty good


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