# 68 GTO project update - phase 1



## jmt455 (Mar 26, 2012)

Thought you might enjoy a little project update...

I bought this car in March, 2012. It's a Fremont-built GTO that has apparently spent its life (til 2011) in California and Nevada.

I asked a lot of questions and got a lot of pictures, but did not go to Nevada to look at the car. Here are a few of the seller's pics:
















































I knew it needed trunk floors and lower LH quarter repairs, as well as a patch in the left fender.

According to the seller, he bought the car (as a roller) in the mid-90s and started building it. He had installed a 1969 "big car" 428 and a TH400 with either a 2.93 or 3.08 posi. It was originally a non-hideaway car, but the seller had installed hideaways. They were not working and the vacuum hoses and switch were missing.

It ran, but the brakes were not working well.



Here is what it looked like when it arrived in Michigan in early April:










The black paint was mostly rattle-can touch ups to cover bare metal.

After spending some time checking it out, I decided to get it roadworthy and drive it as much as possible over the summer (2012), then get it ready for a winter paint job. My target was to have it on the road for the Woodward Dream Cruise in August.

After going through the fuel system and the brakes, I started cutting out the trunk floor and found that the left quarter was worse then I anticipated. Typical...rust is like an iceberg; what you see is about 10% of what's really there!

Surprisingly, the trunk braces and fuel tank supports were in great shape.




























Continued in next post (could only include 10 images per post)...


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## jmt455 (Mar 26, 2012)

*68 GTO project update - phase 1 (Post #2)*

Had to purchase and/or fabricate a bunch of patch panels and had to replace the panel between the rear window and the trunk opening; it was really bad...























































Got all that stuff done between April and July and pushed to have it on the road for August...

Rally wheels re-done:











Interior cleaned up, repaired an old, cracked steering wheel to replace the Buick wheel that was in the car, got the gauges working, got the dash pad crack repaired:












Pulled the 69 bumper off, refurbished the headlight mechanisms and the grilles/doors:



















Next post: How it looked in August.


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## jmt455 (Mar 26, 2012)

*68 GTO project update - phase 1 (Post #3)*

MADE IT![]
Had it drivable by July 30. 

A few rattle cans of flat black, and this is how it looked when we hit Woodward for the Dream Cruise:





















After the Dream Cruise and a few more short trips, I started prepping the body for paint.

I brought it out to the painter and he recommended stripping it to bare metal. A few old repairs were obvious and he wanted to make sure he knew exactly what was under all that flat black paint and old "hi-build" polyester primer.

Lots of DA time yielded some ugly surprises.
Looks like the car sideswiped a guard rail early in its life...










There was a triple crease running from just ahead of the door opening almost all the way to the rear wheel opening and even into the rear section of the quarter.

Must have happened a long time ago; the only paint under the repair material was the original primer and black lacquer!



















I spent a LOT of hours on the Endura bumper. The bumper was sandblasted down to the bare ruber/urethane base. I opened up the worst of the cracks, filled all the holes and re-shaped contours with a special flexible epoxy material. Lots of work...












Here's how it looked when it went to the painter:






















I'll post a paint shop update later this week.




In the meantime, I've been busy on the seats. Got the rears and the passenger seat done:


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## Instg8ter (Sep 28, 2010)

wish i would have known you were there JMT, spent the whole day with the Widetrack club at the Pontiac turnaround to go South. Great time, free lunch and tons of Pontiacs. heres some pics before the camera batteries went.

dreamcruise 12 Photos by instg8ter | Photobucket


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## jmt455 (Mar 26, 2012)

Instg8ter said:


> wish i would have known you were there JMT, spent the whole day with the Widetrack club at the Pontiac turnaround to go South. Great time, free lunch and tons of Pontiacs. heres some pics before the camera batteries went.
> 
> dreamcruise 12 Photos by instg8ter | Photobucket



Small world!
I'm a member of the Widetrackers, but I didn't park in Pontiac this year. 
My daughter comes back from Chicago every year for the Dream Cruise and we usually park in Birmingham and walk from Maple to 12 Mile.

I might park with the club next year if we change our "normal" routine.

I'm in Troy; where are you located?


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## Instg8ter (Sep 28, 2010)

I'm Downriver in New Boston (just south of Metro off I-275), used to work in Berkley and designed and printed most of the Merchandise art for the first 3 years, before it got HUGE. Took me 3 hrs on the way out to get from Pontiac to 12 mile, good test for the new cooling system....lol. Hope to catch you this year, that car should be nice and shiny by then, keep up the good work.


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## jmt455 (Mar 26, 2012)

*UPDATE with body ship pics - January 11, 2013*

Pics from the body shop...

These first pics are from early December.

Quarter skin removed, all hidden surfaces prepped for new skin installation:










Test fit new quarter skin:










Two weeks later, I returned to see that the car was wearing its first primer coat:




















The door skin is loose and awaiting replacement:











New Dynacorn door skin. Turned out to be a very nice piece:











These next few are from December 20:

Doors are off and the rest of the body wears black base and clear from the A pillars back:






























As of January 7, the car is painted from the firewall back and he's now working on the fenders.










Hit my 10 image limit....more to follow.


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## jmt455 (Mar 26, 2012)

*UPDATE with body ship pics - January 11, 2013*

We are going to replace the "Soffseal" deck lid weatherstrip; it is so thick it is holding the decklid up about 1/4" above the quarters. When we re-installed the original weatherstrip, the fit was perfect...

Compared the cross-section and found that the Soffseal part is more than 1/4" taller than the original part. Left the trunk closed for a week and it still didn't collapse enough to allow reasonable opening and closing efforts. The weatherstrip is pushing the decklid up with so much force, it was impossible to open the trunk with a key.

I'm going to try the weatherstrip from Inline Tube; they tooled that part themselves and it is supposed to be identical to the original section.











Here you can see the same seal issue with the door. The SoffSeal part is harder and taller than the original seal. This is how the door fit looks after a full week of compressing the seal with the door closed. It's held out about 1/4" beyond the quarter surface. Without the new seal, the fit is perfect.

We are going to give this some additional time; if it doesn't compress enough, I might be replacing the door seals, too.





























Hood & bumper will be last. 
The hood has some low areas that need to be corrected:










The body has been cleared, but still needs to be blocked and polished.

Next, I will be finishing the seats, dash cluster and rear bumper.


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## FlambeauHO (Nov 24, 2011)

I wonder if you got a bad batch from soffseal of something, all mine fit beautifully. Although I did buy the kit several years ago...Car is looking great, good luck!


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## Instg8ter (Sep 28, 2010)

when you install the softseal stretch it a little all the way around and dab a bit of silicone under it to set it, had the same problem with mine, they will start out a little high but as they get compressed will settle into position. think i ended up cutting around 4 " off after i stretched the trunk seal.


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## GhostTown (Jan 25, 2011)

It's looking really good!

I have a question for you. How are/did you treat the refinishing of the frame/suspension parts, if at all?

My car will go off for final body work and paint this year, but I'm fighting with how to get the frame cleaned up without tearing the car all the way down. I'm not willing to disassemble everything.

Have you done anything under your car?


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## jmt455 (Mar 26, 2012)

I'm not doing anything with the frame at this time. 
The frame, floors and suspension are pretty clean. I will get the car up on my lift and clean it as best I can when I get it back from the body shop.

It's a "driver", not a show car and I decided to spend most of my budget on the body/paint work.


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## GhostTown (Jan 25, 2011)

Ok, thank you for the response. I'm definitely going to be putting miles on my car. Seeing you go this route helps me with my decisions. Thanks again.


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## jmt455 (Mar 26, 2012)

Visited the body shop on January 21.

First base coat is on the fenders and hood. 
Started blocking this morning:


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## jmt455 (Mar 26, 2012)

UPDATE January 25, 2013

While the car is at the body shop, I have been working on the seats and other parts to get them ready for installation.

The seats didn't look too bad, but when I pulled them out of the car I found a lot of rotten seams and some old rust stains. The foam was 

obviously in bad shape; it felt like you were sitting in the seat frame instead of a foam cushion.

When I took them apart, I found the typical rusty springs and some rust on the metal frames:






































Got the frames and springs bead-blasted and painted them:




















Re-installed the springs into the frames:





























Sewed up new suspension units to replace the old, tattered burlap:

Front seat:











More coming...


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## jmt455 (Mar 26, 2012)

More on the seat refurbishment:

Rear seat:











Installed replacement felt underneath the new urethane foam buns:




















Then added soft, non-woven pads and slip-sheets before installing the covers:




















Then, after a lot of stretching and hog-ringing, I ended up with this:





























I still have to re-install the plastic covers, but I think the seats turned out great!

These were ACI foam buns and Legendary covers.


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## jmt455 (Mar 26, 2012)

*UPDATED - January 28, 2013*

Seats are finally DONE!

The top of the rear seat back has a few small waves along the emboss lines, but I think they will smooth out when they warm up.

All in all, I'm happy with the results.


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## Instg8ter (Sep 28, 2010)

would not look better straight out of the factory....nice work


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## Joe'sToy (Mar 9, 2012)

Yes indeed, very nice. Gives me the confidence to do mine myself.


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## jmt455 (Mar 26, 2012)

*UPDATE - Feb. 4, 2013*

I've installed the gauges and woodgrain on the dash bezel...looks pretty good!


Here is the dash bezel with the woodgrain applied:





























And some pics of the installed gauges:





























There are some dark spots on the tach face in this is close-up, but it must just be a reflection; the part looks great


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## FlambeauHO (Nov 24, 2011)

Looking good!


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## jmt455 (Mar 26, 2012)

*Update Feb.9, 2013 - Body shop pics*

Time for final sanding and polishing!

The car should be ready to bring it home for re-assembly by the end of the month.


































Bumper turned out pretty good!

















Still sanding the hood & fenders

























It's starting to look good!


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## ALKYGTO (Mar 29, 2010)

Sub'd. Nice job so far, really looking sharp!

Excellent job on the interior, is that your first time?


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## jmt455 (Mar 26, 2012)

Not my first seat build; I've done several of my own cars, plus most of my career was in the manufacturing and engineering of interior systems.


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## bondobill (Oct 24, 2011)

Really looks good
Interior work looks awesome
Wished I knew more about upholstering. We have new bucket seat covers and foam from legendary for Brent's 68. Probably have to farm that out...not real comfortable trying it ourselves. 
We might give the headliner a go tho...any suggestions?

Bill


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## jmt455 (Mar 26, 2012)

*UPDATE: February 26, 2013*

I won't have the car back until next week (if the weather co-operates).
It's painted, but still needs more polishing and passenger door adjustments before I bring it home.


I helped fit the front bumper today. It's almost perfect, but we still might do a little more tweaking on the passenger side.































Hard to believe that it looks this good after all the work that was done...(new right quarter skin, new right door skin, minor collision damage in right fender, patch panels in lower left quarter and fender). 

I think Bob did a great job!


































































I can't wait to get it home and start re-assembling it.


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## MO Goat (Apr 7, 2011)

Looking great! Besides having an extra set (or two) of hands around, any tips on fitting the front bumper? I've heard nightmares about getting it to align. My 68 will be finished being painted in a few weeks and I have a new bumper, hood and fenders so any suggestions would be helpful.


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## jmt455 (Mar 26, 2012)

MO Goat said:


> Looking great! Besides having an extra set (or two) of hands around, any tips on fitting the front bumper? I've heard nightmares about getting it to align. My 68 will be finished being painted in a few weeks and I have a new bumper, hood and fenders so any suggestions would be helpful.


First, get the door to quarter fit done, then move forward and set the fenders to the doors. Now set the hood to the fenders and the bumper is done last.

It's almost impossible to get it by yourself; 2 sets of hands makes it MUCH easier.

They are not easy to fit and be prepared to spend a few hours to get it where you want it. 

First, we set the cross-car position by adjusting the upper bracket attaching bolts. Then, one of us held the bumper in position vertically while the other tightened the bumper bracket-to-frame bolts. We did one side at a time.

After geting it "in the ball park", we finessed the fender, hood and bumper positions to balance out the alignment/gaps on both sides and top-to-bottom.

Make sure you leave a gap (factory spec was 1/16" to 1/8") between the front edge of the fenders and the rear edge of the Endura. The bumper should not touch the fenders!

Final step is to tighten the clamps that anchor the top of the bumper frame to the core support. The nuts are up above the headlights (one on each side).

There is a good picture of all these attachment points in the Factory Service Manual. If you don't have one, I highly recommend you get a copy; it's the most important thing you can have in your toolbox!

Hope that helps!


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## jmt455 (Mar 26, 2012)

bondobill said:


> Really looks good
> Interior work looks awesome
> Wished I knew more about upholstering. We have new bucket seat covers and foam from legendary for Brent's 68. Probably have to farm that out...not real comfortable trying it ourselves.
> We might give the headliner a go tho...any suggestions?
> ...


Hi Bill,
I have never done a headliner myself; I know there are some tricks to make it easier to install, but I have always used a pro for that job so i can't really offer any tips.

Sorry I didn't respond sooner; just got back yesterday from a week-long trip.


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## bondobill (Oct 24, 2011)

jmt455 said:


> Hi Bill,
> I have never done a headliner myself; I know there are some tricks to make it easier to install, but I have always used a pro for that job so i can't really offer any tips.
> 
> Sorry I didn't respond sooner; just got back yesterday from a week-long trip.


No problem Joe.
We have a guy hopefully installing the headliner today. He came out last Sat. to do it but was having a heck of a time getting the bows through the loops in the liner. Loops were too small, he said if he damaged one stitch the whole seam would unravel. He took the headliner back to his shop to sew in some material to make the loop larger, he said he does that quite often with headliners. He also picked up the front seats and console. We have covers, foam and drivers seat lwr springs from Legendary. He's going to rewrap the console. Saw a console he did for a 69 goat, looked really nice, it will have a seam that will show but for a $100 we can live with that.

Your car is looking really good.....you be way ahead of us.

Bill


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## Poncho (Jan 12, 2011)

I'm restoring my 69 bumper and need some details on what filler works best.

Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App


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## jmt455 (Mar 26, 2012)

Use 2-part flex epoxy. 
3M, Evercoat or any other brand will work. Just be sure you're using FLEX epoxy.


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## jmt455 (Mar 26, 2012)

UPDATE March 23, 2103

The car is back from paint and I have started on re-assembly.

New parking lamp housings are very pricey, so I decided to refurbish my originals. I replaced the sockets and repainted the housings and the silver areas on the lenses. They turned out pretty good and I won't have to worry about poor grounds; I added dedicated ground wires and 3-wire weatherpak pigtails.







































I took the shifter apart, cleaned, painted, polished and lubricated everything as required:




















Pulled out the old floor insulation and cleaned up some minor traces of rust before installing new deadener.
The orange areas are original primer:





























Gardening (knee) pad sure comes in handy when you're doing this task...


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## jmt455 (Mar 26, 2012)

Then on to the rear compartment/package tray area. I am installing 3-point belts for the outboard seat positions (front and rear).
Got the complete set from Morris Concepts. Nice stuff!

The rear retractor mounts on top of the package tray. The belt load is transferred down through a bracket that anchors to the pinch weld flange at the top of the wheelhouse, just aft of the rear seat/trunk partition. The bracket is 316 stainless and about 1/8" thick. We discovered that the Pontiac (Tempest/LeMans/GTO) and Chevrolet (Chevelle/Malibu) body structure is a little different in the rear wheelhouse area. On a Chevrolet, you can drill the attaching holes for the lower mounting bolts in the pinch weld flange and the back side is accessible. On the Pontiac, there is a box reinforcement section behind the mounting area, so you can't get at the bolts. I installed heavy extruded J nuts for the lower attachments:




























The rear retractor mounting brackets fit perfectly; more pics after I complete the installation.



I have not been able to get any outdoor pics due to the weather and the fact that I can't move the car, but here's how it looks in the garage:















































Lots left to do, but it's coming along!


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## bondobill (Oct 24, 2011)

Looking awesome Joe !
Any idea of when you think she'll be on the road ?
I made the mistake and told my son he would be driving his by his birthday
That be June 

Bill


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## jmt455 (Mar 26, 2012)

bondobill said:


> Looking awesome Joe !
> Any idea of when you think she'll be on the road ?
> I made the mistake and told my son he would be driving his by his birthday
> That be June
> ...


Hi Bill,
I hope to have it on the road in time for our local POCI show in June.
I've got a long way to go; it might show up for the show without a few moldings and trim parts...


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## BearGFR (Aug 25, 2008)

Looking good! :cheers

Bear


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## Instg8ter (Sep 28, 2010)

Wheres the POCI show JMT and what date?


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## FlambeauHO (Nov 24, 2011)

Nice work!


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## BearGFR (Aug 25, 2008)

Looking good! :cheers

Bear


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## jmt455 (Mar 26, 2012)

Instg8ter said:


> Wheres the POCI show JMT and what date?


Michigan Widetrackers "Spring Dust-Off"
Saturday, June 8 2013
SPRINGFIELD OAKS COUNTY PARK
12451 Andersonville Rd., Davisburg, MI 48350


Here's a link to the flier:
http://widetrackers.com/2013%20WT%20Dustoff.pdf


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## bondobill (Oct 24, 2011)

Joe
June 8th is my sons birthday:cool
Hopefully both cars will be on the road on the same datearty:

Although I ain't holding my breath on Brent's being done

Bill


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## jmt455 (Mar 26, 2012)

I know mine won't be done, but I hope to have it drivable by then.


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## joedee (Dec 13, 2012)

*Seats*

This seats look great. I am working on mine (68 GTO) and have a question. I took off the old back seat bottom cover and there were listing rods in the front and back of the cover. My new covers from Legendary have some tan colored twine were the listing rods should go. I think I can push the twine out with the rods but should I? Is the twine suppose to replace the metal listing rod?


:confused

Thank you,
Joe


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## Instg8ter (Sep 28, 2010)

yes you want the listing rods, those are what your D-clips hook to to stretch it tight


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## joedee (Dec 13, 2012)

*seats*

Hi,
Thanks for the reply. Any idea why Legendary puts the twine in where the metal listing rods should go?

Joe


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## jmt455 (Mar 26, 2012)

joedee said:


> Hi,
> Thanks for the reply. Any idea why Legendary puts the twine in where the metal listing rods should go?
> 
> Joe


The twine was also commonly used, but I tried to use it on my seats and I found that it wasn't stiff enough to hold a straight line along the bolster edges. The cover was wavy; it highlighted every hog ring location.

I took it apart and replaced all the twisted paper cords with wires; problem solved.


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## jmt455 (Mar 26, 2012)

*Got a LOT done in the last 4 weeks - WOOHOO!*

April 14, 2013 update.

It's been about 4 weeks since I posted an update; things are moving right along.

Completed the installation of the rear seat belt retractors:











Then masked and primed the lower dash panel:





























Then painted the lower dash:




















Installed carpet, shifter, rear seat divider, kick panels, E-brake mechanism and console:






































More to follow...


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## jmt455 (Mar 26, 2012)

*Got a LOT done in the last 4 weeks - WOOHOO! (continued)*

Yes, I know it's a 69-72 console. Someday I'll find someone who wants to trade for a 68.











Then, on to the instrument panel, radio and glove box installation. Unfortunately, the in-dash tach did not work when I tested it. I re-installed the Rally clock:






































Spent about 4 days getting all of that where I wanted it, including adding a ground terminal strip for the speakers, radio and 12V power port.

Then, it was on to the front end....

Surprise! I found a little area of flaking paint and a little bit of bent metal on the core support while I was installing the updated weatherpak connectors for the turn signal/park lamps:











Straightened up the damaged area at the outboard corner of the core support, cleaned/treated/primed/painted the area:




















Now, time to install the valance panel:


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## jmt455 (Mar 26, 2012)

*Got a LOT done in the last 4 weeks - WOOHOO! (continued)*

And the headlight doors & grilles:











While I was working up front, I installed the new master cylinder and booster:












And re-finished the sorry looking washer bottle...it turned out great!











Now, I'm picking up steam!


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## jmt455 (Mar 26, 2012)

My wife held the rear bumper in position while I bolted it up:











In the last couple of days, I got the front seats in, along with the 3-point belt on the driver's side.

When the sun made an appearance this afternoon, I pulled the car out for a few pics. 
Here's what it looks like today (4/14/2013):




















In the next two pictures, you can see the "Aux" input and the 12V power port mounted below the dash. 
I plan to move both of them into the console, but I just couldn't bring myself to cut the holes in the new console bin liner yet.
Maybe I'll tackle that project later this year...























































It looks pretty good in these pics, but it's actually covered with a fine layer of dust. Can't wait to see it in the sunshine after it's all cleaned up!

I've still got a lot of trim and detailing to do, but I'm very happy with the way it's looking so far.


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## Instg8ter (Sep 28, 2010)

Looking good, can't wait to see it at the shows this year...:cheers


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## bondobill (Oct 24, 2011)

Looking really good Joe :cheers


Bill


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## Rukee (Feb 8, 2007)

I agree, very nice looking GTO!!


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## BearGFR (Aug 25, 2008)

Nice nice nice... :cheers

Ok, so where's our video???? 

Bear


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## jmt455 (Mar 26, 2012)

BearGFR said:


> Nice nice nice... :cheers
> 
> Ok, so where's our video????
> 
> Bear


Video won't be available for a few weeks...

This car's going to get VOE mufflers, but I won't be able to install them until late May or early June.

Then I'll make a video and post it up for all to hear!


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## jmt455 (Mar 26, 2012)

UPDATE June 7, 2013

We've been on the road for several weeks; we returned from an extended (31 day) vacation trip at the end of May.
I picked up my stainless steel trim - all straightened and polished - and got started on installation.

I was able to get some loop carpet for the doors. Made my own bindings from some black vinyl I had laying around. They turned out great.

Here's the carpet cut to match the door panel shape:











Made the binding by cutting a 1.75" wide strip of black vinyl left over from a previous project:











Binding and carpet ready to be sewn. You sew them "face to face", then wrap the vinyl around the back of the door panel after bonding the carpet to the panel board.





























At the same time, I also decided to move the 12V power port and the radio "Aux" plug out of sight.
The 12V port is now in the console and the Aux input is tucked up under the dash; not visible, but easily reached.











I made new water barriers for the doors using heavy-gauge plastic instead of the coated paper and replaced the foam seals aound the door pull handles and window cranks.




















I removed the stainless steel moldings from the door trim panels and polished the moldings. 
Re-sprayed the trim panels with vinyl/fabric dye and put everything back together, including new "fuzzies".











Door trim looks great!


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## jmt455 (Mar 26, 2012)

Moving on to the exterior moldings and trim...
I removed each wheel, undercoated the fender liners, touched up the brake drums and the visible portions of the frame rails.




















Then I installed the freshly polished wheel opening moldings, new trim rings and snazzy new lug nuts.
Looks like new, except these are 7" wide instead of the original 6" wheels.




















I decided to replace the side marker lamp lenses and bezels; the old stuff looked really bad when seen against the new paint.
Lined up the GTO emblems on the quarters...




















I'm having trouble with the rear window molding installation.
First, I had the wrong molding clips; they were too short and made the moldings sit too low in the channel.
Even with the correct clips, the moldings don't sit flush at the bottom, left corner of the glass.


I think the glass is miss-formed, but I'm going to try to put some weight on the window when the temps get a little warmer.
Hopefully, a couple of days with 50+ pounds and temps over 80F will squeeze the butyl down a little bit.
No pics of this area yet; still working on it...



Still cleaning, but I'm just about ready for our first show:


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## Instg8ter (Sep 28, 2010)

very nice, i was at the Comerica Park show for the Tigers game, some very nice cars there. Hope to run into you at some of the events this year...:cheers


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## jmt455 (Mar 26, 2012)

UPDATE: June 8, 2103.

Made it to our debut show today; the POCI Widetrackers 25th Annual Spring "Dust-Off" in Davisburg, MI.
It's almost 25 miles from my home, so I got a little seat time in!

The view from the driver's seat:









Speedo actually reads a little high...









At the show:









In great company!


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## FlambeauHO (Nov 24, 2011)

Looks like fun! Still waiting to go to my first show.


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## bondobill (Oct 24, 2011)

Hey Joe 

Your car looks awesome 

Your still ahead of us the way it looks :cheers

Bill


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## jmt455 (Mar 26, 2012)

I'm driving it, but it still needs some additional polishing and finessing.
This is a lot of fun, but my wife is tired of my constant obsessing!


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## Rukee (Feb 8, 2007)

Years from now she'll learn to love it.


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## jmt455 (Mar 26, 2012)

UPDATE June 14, 2013

Getting closer to "done"!


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## Rukee (Feb 8, 2007)

Lookin real good!!! :cheers


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## 68GTO4004Spd (Jun 19, 2008)

jmt455 said:


> UPDATE June 14, 2013
> 
> Getting closer to "done"!
> 
> Ha don't you know they are never "done". Looks good man, they are fun to drive too. Congrats


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## FlambeauHO (Nov 24, 2011)

"Done" lol, wonder if that will ever happen to me.


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## jmt455 (Mar 26, 2012)

They're never done, are they?


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## dan woodland (Jul 24, 2013)

jmt455, 

Great job saving that car from the crusher! I bet she is a blast to drive now. :cheers

Thanks for posting your restore, I just read the entire thread. This site is full of talented people and I hope to learn a lot from from guys like you and FlambeauHO while doing my restore.

Dan


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## SpeedSLC (May 24, 2015)

So many challenges but I applaude your hard work and dedication you are doing it the right way. I have learned a few things from you so thank you


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## shoeman68 (Jun 7, 2015)

Great posts. Thanks for all the input. A labor of love. Deconstructing a 68 for restore this summer.


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## ryno (Jul 19, 2013)

Awesome Job! i will be restoring s nightshade green 68 HO car this winter!


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