# 112, 122, or Procharger?



## PooperScooper (Mar 23, 2009)

I'm looking to add forced induction to my '05 M6 GTO. The car is all stock and I don't really plan on putting anything else on after this. Unfortunately, I'm having some trouble deciding which one to purchase.

Here are my 3 favorites:

112 kit - $5100

122 kit - $6100

Procharger kit - $5300

I don't really like the idea of having the car whine like a son-of-a-bitch at low idle, and I have read some really good reviews about the maggie's power curve, reliability, and daily drivability, so I'm sort of leaning that route; however, the loads of power up top is also appealing.

In regards to the two magnachargers, is the 122 worth the extra money?


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## SANDU002 (Oct 13, 2004)

I have a 112 and it is great. The 122 is even better. Here is the problem you face. You are going to need "other upgrades". Replace the clutch, get LT's. I also put on a heavier tensioner from ECS and a 2.6 pulley from Pulley Boys. My car had a few basic mods and was putting out 364 rwhp. Now she is at 510 rwhp.

So, I would say get the 112 and spend the extra $1k on clutch, etc. You are also going to need to find a good tuner. The stock ECU from Magnasun is a safe tune with low hp and boost. I am running 9 psi on mine.


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## 06GOAT (Jan 29, 2006)

I also have a 112 maggie on my 2006 6spd gto. I have had it on for about 2 years now. I have full exhaust and a clutch also. Mine now puts down 532rwhp, and 568rwtq. I have modded several cars over the years and this one is by far the most fun to drive. I haven't had a single issue with it either.


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## aarons1k (May 23, 2008)

i have heard nothing but good things about procharger and i think the D unit boosts at 6-7 psi, and doesnt require the bottom of the motor to be built.... A clutch with a super is a must!


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## LOWET (Oct 21, 2007)

PooperScooper said:


> I'm looking to add forced induction to my '05 M6 GTO. The car is all stock and I don't really plan on putting anything else on after this. Unfortunately, I'm having some trouble deciding which one to purchase.
> 
> Here are my 3 favorites:
> 
> ...



The Maggie is a good unit but the Procharger is better

Go with the Procharger. it is cheaper then the Maggie and will give you more power and it sounds sweet. As far as HP numbers . Every dyno type will give you a different reading. 

My car is in the shop right now for a D1 Procharger


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## aarons1k (May 23, 2008)

D1 I like!!!!!!!


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## PooperScooper (Mar 23, 2009)

I think I may just go with the 112, since nobody can give me a good reason to spend the extra money on the 122. I think that the Procharger would be funner if I was constantly in race mode, but as a daily driver, I think that I'll be happier with the power down low. Thank you all for the input.


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## PooperScooper (Mar 23, 2009)

"Mine now puts down 532rwhp, and 568rwtq."

How much boost are you running? Is there any internal work needed to keep our cars reliable with numbers this high?


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## SANDU002 (Oct 13, 2004)

PooperScooper said:


> "Mine now puts down 532rwhp, and 568rwtq."
> 
> How much boost are you running? Is there any internal work needed to keep our cars reliable with numbers this high?


 No internal work needed. Just what we have suggested (mainly a clutch and I would suggest the LS7 since it is your dd).


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## 6QTS11OZ (Mar 27, 2005)

LOWET said:


> The Maggie is a good unit but *the Procharger is better*
> 
> Go with the Procharger. it is cheaper then the Maggie and will give you more power and it sounds sweet. As far as HP numbers . Every dyno type will give you a different reading.
> 
> My car is in the shop right now for a D1 Procharger


That's not true at all. Also I think this is a biased statement based on the fact that you're getting a D1. What makes one kit better than the other one is solely based on what your driving style is and WHEN you want to use the extra power. Do you want it down low or up top?


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## 06GOAT (Jan 29, 2006)

I have just recently added the full exhaust, clutch, fenderwell intake, and a few other mods, but I had the maggie on for about 2 years before that stuff, dynoed at 480whp on a dynojet with the only mod being the base magnacharger kit(5.5-6lbs. of boost). In those 2 years I put about 8k miles on the car and had absolutely zero problems or issues. The car drives just as smooth as stock, just a whole lot more fun. On the highway I am still getting like 25-27mpg. The only reason that you would go for the 122 over the 112 is if you are going to try to make more than about 550whp. Over about 550whp the 112 starts to make way too much heat. I have been in several supercharged cars over the years, and a positive displacement unit like the magnacharger is hands down WAY more fun to drive on the street than a centrifigal blower. By the way I have a 2.6" pulley on my setup now making about 8.7lbs. of maximum boost. I am sure you will be happy with whatever route you decide, but I can tell you that I have never doubted my decision.


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## PooperScooper (Mar 23, 2009)

112 on order! 

That's good to know that I can keep everything stock. 

I read about the heat issue on the ls1 forum. I'll be keeping my fingers crossed.

Any tips on the installation, other than the usual organization of parts? 

Are additional gauges necessary/recommended in order to keep an eye on things? I would rather not have massive pillar pods/tach in the car.


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## LOWET (Oct 21, 2007)

aarons1k said:


> D1 I like!!!!!!!


I received a phone call from the speed shop yesterday. My new Stage V trans from RPM has been installed, The Procharger has been installed. All they have to do now is to install the 60 lb injectors, bolt up the front bumper cover and get her on the Mustang Dyno.


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## LOWET (Oct 21, 2007)

6QTS11OZ said:


> That's not true at all. Also I think this is a biased statement based on the fact that you're getting a D1. What makes one kit better than the other one is solely based on what your driving style is and WHEN you want to use the extra power. Do you want it down low or up top?


BIASED, Not at all. I could have gone with a Maggie but I chose the D1. I started doing so research on Forced Induction last year. Looked at prices and HP gained and where the power was made. Went with the DI because I feel I will get more HP & TQ and the price of the polished Prochager and install labor will be about the price of a Maggie alone. 

The Maggie is a good unit, just not for me


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## LOWET (Oct 21, 2007)

PooperScooper said:


> 112 on order!
> 
> That's good to know that I can keep everything stock.
> 
> ...


Get a Guage Pod simular to the JHP model. Put a boost gauge in it along with an oil pressure gauge or a gauge of your choice


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## 6QTS11OZ (Mar 27, 2005)

LOWET said:


> BIASED, Not at all. I could have gone with a Maggie but I chose the D1. I started doing so research on Forced Induction last year. Looked at prices and HP gained and where the power was made. Went with the DI because I feel I will get more HP & TQ and the price of the polished Prochager and install labor will be about the price of a Maggie alone.
> 
> The Maggie is a good unit, just not for me


That's cool. If you're concerned about the MOST power then you made a good choice going with the ProCharger. I chose the Maggie at the time because I wasn't concerned with having the MOST power. Honestly, 400 hp is enough to get you thrown under the jail. I just never kept any of my cars stock so modding them is just second nature for me. Now I'm not gonna say that I don't occasionally fool around on the street because I do and having the power come on instantly is what I wanted. 450+ rwtq @ 2750 is very nice for my needs. I could have gotten any FI system the time I got my Maggie but they just weren't what I wanted. I paid $5412 including shipping so I did very well. ABSOLUTELY NO PROBLEMS with my Maggie. It's been flawless on my 6 hour drive (one way) from So. Cali to Phoenix, Arizona and numerous amounts of times from So. Cali to Las Vegas (3 hours one way). If I ever decide to go for more power it will definitely be a TVS 1900 on top of my engine. Like I said before, if you choose the system for your own driving needs then no system really should be considered better than the other IMHO.


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## PooperScooper (Mar 23, 2009)

I found a new LS7 clutch on ebay for around 550, but it only includes the clutch and flywheel. Do I also need the slave cylinder and the pilot bearing?


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## LOWET (Oct 21, 2007)

I STAND CORRECTED. I guess we are ALL a little biased toward the products we choose. Anyone who purchases and installs a Maggie , Procharger or any other form of Forced Induction will be happy with their item. I have never heard any negative talk about a maggie or procharger. My D1 cost me $6,500.00 including install and new 80 Lb injectors. My tune [ both street and Dyno Tune on a Mustang Dyno ] are included in the price. Actually my Dyno tune is free. The shop I use offers a free lifetime Dyno Tune anytime I get mods or items needing a Dyno tune. The Lifetime tune cost $100.00 added to the normal fee of $450.00 with the very first tune .

I also thought about an F1 or F2. just went with the D1. Not sure what I will end up for HP after install. My car made 420RWHP & 435 RWTQ the last time it was on their Dyno .

JOHN 

JOHN


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## SANDU002 (Oct 13, 2004)

PooperScooper said:


> I found a new LS7 clutch on ebay for around 550, but it only includes the clutch and flywheel. Do I also need the slave cylinder and the pilot bearing?


 Probably.


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## LOWET (Oct 21, 2007)

6QTS11OZ said:


> That's cool. If you're concerned about the MOST power then you made a good choice going with the ProCharger. I chose the Maggie at the time because I wasn't concerned with having the MOST power. Honestly, 400 hp is enough to get you thrown under the jail. I just never kept any of my cars stock so modding them is just second nature for me. Now I'm not gonna say that I don't occasionally fool around on the street because I do and having the power come on instantly is what I wanted. 450+ rwtq @ 2750 is very nice for my needs. I could have gotten any FI system the time I got my Maggie but they just weren't what I wanted. I paid $5412 including shipping so I did very well. ABSOLUTELY NO PROBLEMS with my Maggie. It's been flawless on my 6 hour drive (one way) from So. Cali to Phoenix, Arizona and numerous amounts of times from So. Cali to Las Vegas (3 hours one way). If I ever decide to go for more power it will definitely be a TVS 1900 on top of my engine. Like I said before, if you choose the system for your own driving needs then no system really should be considered better than the other IMHO.



I did try to get some information on the TVS 1900 and the 2300 ?. Two people on LS1Tech and one on LS1GTO.com had them installed and the numbers gained were not very impressive. One pure stock car with headers and cat back [ LS1TECH ] had a baseline run of Aprox 352 RWHP and after the TVS install and tune had his final numbers of 428 RWHP. But all cars not being equal, I guess numbers will vary from car to car and dyno to dyno. The TVS will give us another F.I. model to pick from


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## 6QTS11OZ (Mar 27, 2005)

LOWET said:


> I did try to get some information on the TVS 1900 and the 2300 ?. Two people on LS1Tech and one on LS1GTO.com had them installed and the numbers gained were not very impressive. One pure stock car with headers and cat back [ LS1TECH ] had a baseline run of Aprox 352 RWHP and after the TVS install and tune had his final numbers of 428 RWHP. But all cars not being equal, I guess number will vary from car to car and dyno to dyno. The TVS will give us another form or type of F.I to pick from


Okay. Who tuned it? What was the A/F ratio? What was the boost? How much timing did it have? Was it a LS1 or LS2? Regardless, I've seen more with better numbers. 

Here are a couple of '06 GTOs with better numbers.

If this car is 100% stock as stated, it dyno'd at approx. 140-150 rwhp over the average stock '06 GTO at 6-7 psi. Imagine what it would do with more supporting mods like a cam, full exhaust, meth and 8-10 lbs of boost.
LS1GTO.com Forums - TVS 1900 results on bone stock LS2

Here's another '06 with long tube headers at approx. 150-160 rwhp over stock at only 5.95 psi. Again, imagine it with more supporting mods.
LS1GTO.com Forums - • TVS 1900 Results •

Like I said before, being biased doesn't justify one system over the other. If I was so dead set on the Maggies being better than the ProCharger, I could easily go onto forums and find an example of a poor performing ProCharger and post the numbers. Sort of like you just did. But since I'm not dead set on one particular system I won't do that. Anyway, I think the OP made up his mind to get a Maggie.


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## LOWET (Oct 21, 2007)

6QTS11OZ said:


> Okay. Who tuned it? What was the A/F ratio? What was the boost? How much timing did it have? Was it a LS1 or LS2? Regardless, I've seen more with better numbers.
> 
> Here are a couple of '06 GTOs with better numbers.
> 
> ...




I don't know who did the tune or install on the few TVS powered cars I have read about. Please don't get me wrong. I am not putting down a Maggie. They make a very high quality item, great HP gains and rock solid when it comes to dependability . I still remember my days in the late 60s and early
70s driving around the Connecticut Shoreline with my 671 sticking out of the hood for the whole world to see. Shinny pulleys and a big belt made it look mean. 
If you look at the end of my last statement , I said that the few samples of what I read so far about the TVS were not impressive. But it was only a few and I am sure it is not average of what this product can and will deliver.
YES, I have also heard of some poor reports of cars using a Procharger as well. I don't think that poor reports on either type of F.I. unit is do to the unit itself. Most likely it was in the tune, miss match of parts or the Dyno itself.

My main reason for going with Procharger. I had roots type blowers in the past and they were great. Wanted to try a different form this time around and I figured the polished unit will really dress up my polished intake and other detailed itmes in my engine bay


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## 6QTS11OZ (Mar 27, 2005)

LOWET said:


> I don't know who did the tune or install on the few TVS powered cars I have read about. Please don't get me wrong. I am not putting down a Maggie. They make a very high quality item, great HP gains and rock solid when it comes to dependability . I still remember my days in the late 60s and early
> 70s driving around the Connecticut Shoreline with my 671 sticking out of the hood for the whole world to see. Shinny pulleys and a big belt made it look mean.
> If you look at the end of my last statement , I said that the few samples of what I read so far about the TVS were not impressive. But it was only a few and I am sure it is not average of what this product can and will deliver.
> YES, I have also heard of some poor reports of cars using a Procharger as well. I don't think that poor reports on either type of F.I. unit is do to the unit itself. Most likely it was in the tune, miss match of parts or the Dyno itself.
> ...


How is the progress on your install going?


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## LOWET (Oct 21, 2007)

6QTS11OZ said:


> How is the progress on your install going?


It should be ready in the next few days at the most. Was in their shop last Saturday and the new headers were installed, the new [ A/4 ] Stage V trans from R.P.M was installed and the Procharger & Intercooler were in place. They still had to swap out the 42 lb injectors for 60s, install 2 stage fuel pumps and put the front bumper cover back on, street tune and dyno tune. Because my motor is pure stock except for a cam, springs and push rods they were going to tune it for around 550 RWHP. I think they said it will be running about 7 lbs of boost . This will be my 1st time in the drivers seat of a Forced Induction car in about 30 years.


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## LOWET (Oct 21, 2007)

Just received a call from the shop. Most likely my car will be on the Dyno Monday morning. ED [ the owner and one of the tuners ] has been out sick for a few days so it slowed up the process on my car . It has been street tuned and the owner of the shop told me they wanted to put a few break in miles on the new trannie before it went on the dyno. They were also waiting for one of my gauges to come in. I have a JHP Guage Pod on my car with oil pressure and Amp Gauge. I swapped out the two Gauges for a Boost Gauge and a Wide Band. I also have a dash hawk.
They told me the car feels real stong, idles nicley, starts easy. Once it gets tuned and I pick it up I will post my before and after info.

JOHN


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## GM4life (Mar 18, 2007)

John please post pictures and video, but start your own thread.


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## LOWET (Oct 21, 2007)

gm4life said:


> John please post pictures and video, but start your own thread.


Sorry. I guess I did kind of hijack this thread


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## PooperScooper (Mar 23, 2009)

O.k., so I've started the install of my maggie and I've got the unit mounted on the intake and everything looks great, but I have a couple of questions: 

1. there is a bolt connecting the maggie to the intake hiding under the black thing/fuel rail on the left side (driver's side), how do I tighten this bolt? I can put maybe 2 ft. lbs of pressure on it with an open-end wrench, but I can't get a torque/socket wrench in there. 

2. There is a black tube that was connected to a 1/2" barb on the rear of the original intake manifold (next to the accessory vacuum hose). The directions didn't say to remove this, but it was necessary to remove the intake manifold. Where does this connect to when the new unit is on?


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## 6QTS11OZ (Mar 27, 2005)

PooperScooper said:


> O.k., so I've started the install of my maggie and I've got the unit mounted on the intake and everything looks great, but I have a couple of questions:
> 
> 1. there is a bolt connecting the maggie to the intake hiding under the black thing/fuel rail on the left side (driver's side), how do I tighten this bolt? I can put maybe 2 ft. lbs of pressure on it with an open-end wrench, but I can't get a torque/socket wrench in there.
> 
> 2. There is a black tube that was connected to a 1/2" barb on the rear of the original intake manifold (next to the accessory vacuum hose). The directions didn't say to remove this, but it was necessary to remove the intake manifold. Where does this connect to when the new unit is on?


1. The best way to tighten that bolt is to remove the coil pack assembly. I think there are about 3 or 4 (10mm) bolts that secures it to the valve cover. You don't have to disconnect the wiring on the coil packs to move it out the way enough to get to the bolt. Then use a 10mm box end wrench to tighten the bolt. The torque on those bolts are only 89 in-lbs so you can just tighten it pretty snug and it should be okay.

2. I'm not sure which hose you talking about. I followed the directions step by step when hooking mine up so start on Page 3/06 (if Magnuson haven't changed the manual) and check it out again. If you can take a picture of it and post it maybe that will help me figure out which one it is.


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## SANDU002 (Oct 13, 2004)

You can also contact Magnasun for help with the install


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## PooperScooper (Mar 23, 2009)

Thank you!

Magnuson did change the manual slightly; they cut out the initial steps on how to remove the ECM.

I don't have internet where I'm working, nor do I have a car to drive to get internet, so I won't be able to post a picture before getting everything installed. I'll call magnuson and figure out what hose is.


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## GM4life (Mar 18, 2007)

PooperScooper said:


> 2. There is a black tube that was connected to a 1/2" barb on the rear of the original intake manifold (next to the accessory vacuum hose). The directions didn't say to remove this, but it was necessary to remove the intake manifold. Where does this connect to when the new unit is on?


Listen to 6QTS he removed and installed his S/C more times than anyone. There is only two hoses I can think of thats on the back of the original intake thats the brake vac hose and the HVAC hose. The HVAC hose should have a check valve on it, on the 05+ I think it connects to the front passenger snout of the S/C. Follow the instructions carefully, sometimes you can miss things. After that 6QTS and TAZ can help you, I have an 04 so I can provide abit too.


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## 6QTS11OZ (Mar 27, 2005)

PooperScooper said:


> O.k., so I've started the install of my maggie and I've got the unit mounted on the intake and everything looks great, but I have a couple of questions:
> 
> 2. There is a black tube that was connected to a 1/2" barb on the rear of the original intake manifold (next to the accessory vacuum hose). The directions didn't say to remove this, but it was necessary to remove the intake manifold. Where does this connect to when the new unit is on?





gm4life said:


> Listen to 6QTS he removed and installed his S/C more times than anyone. There is only two hoses I can think of thats on the back of the original intake thats the *brake vac hose* and the HVAC hose. The HVAC hose should have a check valve on it, on the 05+ I think it connects to the front snout of the S/C. Follow the instructions carefully, sometimes you can miss things. After that 6QTS and TAZ can help you, I have an 04 so I can provide abit too.


PooperScooper - The brake booster hose go to the upper barb on the driver side of the Maggie (right behind the throttle body). The hose on the lower barb goes to the barb on the valve cover on the driver side towards the firewall. There should be a black rubber cap on it that you have to remove.

Hope this helps!


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## PooperScooper (Mar 23, 2009)

6QTS11OZ - Yes, you were correct, it was the brake boost line. Thank you.

Everything went pretty well yesterday, except I snapped a throttle body bolt. The stated 106 in.-lbs. was way too much for that thing. I also have to extend the pcv because the stated 28" was too short. It was originally sent to me long enough, but I cut it to the 28" : ( Kragen's had both of these, so I'm looking forward to finishing it on Monday, when I get back from Disneyland.

How long is the new serpentine belt supposed to be? I'm having some difficulty putting it on. 

Also, I snapped the bracket for the driver's side front fascia (the instructions say push forward and pull out, but you should really push back and pull out.) I picked up some plastic epoxy to reconnect the clip, do you think this will hold? I thought about fusing it together with heat, but I'm sure that will make my paint bubble.


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## PooperScooper (Mar 23, 2009)

"I picked up some plastic epoxy to reconnect the clip, do you think this will hold? I thought about fusing it together with heat, but I'm sure that will make my paint bubble."

O.k., I did a little research and I've realized that the plastic epoxy may not work so well on our bumpers, which makes sense because the polyethylene is rich in hydrocarbon and lacks the proper functional groups for bonding substances. This makes the unit very strong and resistant when it's formed, but difficult to repair. I'm thinking that the only way to reattach the clip is to heat it and refuse the plastic. Has anyone tried this? If so, how did the paint on the other side hold up?


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## PooperScooper (Mar 23, 2009)

The maggie is up and running! 

Two Questions:

1. my heater/ac only blows in the defrost vent, no others. It changes from hot to cold and low to high, but it doesn't change location. What did I do wrong?

2. At approximately 20 percent throttle, there is a faint, very high pitch whine (not the regular, deeper whine), what is this? Belt slipping? As soon as I give it more throttle, the good whine takes over. When I give it less throttle, there is no whine at all. Is this the point where the blower kicks in?


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## 6QTS11OZ (Mar 27, 2005)

I don't know what happened to your heater controls. The Maggie install has nothing to do with the heater so I'm lost. 

As far as the whine that you're hearing, maybe it is belt slippage. Try the Gatorback belt, part # 4061005. If the sound is still there after you change the belt maybe you're just not used the sound of the Maggie. If you've only heard the sound of a Maggie from outside of a car and not the inside, the pitch of the whine is totally different. Also the sound of a Maggie with the stock airbox is noticeably different than one with a "C.A.I." intake. Mine with the LPE CAI tends to be louder (higher pitch) than one with the stock airbox.


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## PooperScooper (Mar 23, 2009)

I found this link in regards to the heater vent problem; Heat / Air stuck on Defrost !!! - Third Generation F-Body Message Boards

I'll check the vacuum accessory line for leaks tomorrow. Is it possible that the supercharger isn't producing the necessary vacuum pressure?


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## 6QTS11OZ (Mar 27, 2005)

PooperScooper said:


> I'll check the vacuum accessory line for leaks tomorrow. Is it possible that the supercharger isn't producing the necessary vacuum pressure?


I overlooked one thing. Remove the small white check valve that's on the line coming from the firewall (passenger side). Take it off and blow in it to check the direction that air is allowed to pass through it. Install it to where air is allowed to flow towards the Maggie. Maybe you have it in backwards, which I think is the problem. Let us know if that fixed it. To make this simple, the black barb on the check valve should be connected to the hose coming from the firewall and the white barb goes to the Maggie hose.


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## PooperScooper (Mar 23, 2009)

Yup, I installed it backwards. Everything's okay now. : )


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## 06GOAT (Jan 29, 2006)

As for the whine, you may also want to make sure that all of the ribs on the serpentine belt are lined up properly on all of the pulleys. Won't be long now til' you want to add a lil' more boost and maybe some long tubes and cat-back exhaust...have fun and enjoy your maggie!


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## 6QTS11OZ (Mar 27, 2005)

PooperScooper said:


> Yup, I installed it backwards. Everything's okay now. : )


Cool. Glad that fixed it. Damn it almost sounds like I've installed a Maggie before LOL! Let's see some photos!!

Now the next thing that you should do is pin your crank. As you may already know, the crank pulley does not have a key way on it. The problem with that is, with the Maggie, in some cases, the crank pulley will begin to back off the crank shaft. Mine did. I first noticed that my air conditioner belt kept popping off the pulley. After reading about the crank pulley backing off and the pulley bolt loosening up I checked mine and sure enough I was able to remove the crank bolt with my bare hands. So I ordered the crank pinning kit from Magnuson for, I think, $90. All it is is a guide that is bolted onto the crank using the original crank bolt, a couple of 1/4" round dowels about 1/2" long or less, a drill bit and a new TTY crank bolt. The job is really easy if you have an angle drill. After I raised the cooling fans up about 5" or so, getting the drill in the guide to drill the holes was a snap. If I was you, I'd go ahead and do this now. Luckily I caught mine in time because the pulley had easily move about a 1/4" forward on the crank.


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## PooperScooper (Mar 23, 2009)

06Goat - The belt seems to be lined up correctly. I added the maggie "update" (extra support attachment to block) for the tensioner after the install, so maybe that caused the spinning. I purchased a Gatorback, so we'll see if that helps. 

6QTS11OZ- You are the man. Thank you. I owe you a beer.

I will be placing an order for the pin kit tomorrow. Drilling into the crank scares the crap out of me, but I'll take your word on its necessity.


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## 6QTS11OZ (Mar 27, 2005)

PooperScooper said:


> 06Goat - The belt seems to be lined up correctly. I added the maggie "update" (extra support attachment to block) for the tensioner after the install, so maybe that caused the spinning. I purchased a Gatorback, so we'll see if that helps.
> 
> 6QTS11OZ- You are the man. Thank you. I owe you a beer.
> 
> I will be placing an order for the pin kit tomorrow. Drilling into the crank scares the crap out of me, but I'll take your word on its necessity.


You don't have to buy me a beer. $200 would be nice though.  Glad I could help bruh.


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## PooperScooper (Mar 23, 2009)

Pics of my baby (the black one)


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## 6QTS11OZ (Mar 27, 2005)

Looking good. Now it's time for a nice engine detailing so you can show that bad boy off.

Did you call Magnuson about the crank pinning kit?


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## PooperScooper (Mar 23, 2009)

I lost a belt today.  After putting on the Gatorback last night in an effort to eliminate that high pitch noise that occurs at 20% throttle, I still heard the noise after the installation. I decided to stop off by Synergy in Newark while on my way back from my girlfriend's house in San Jose to narrow down the issue. I ended up driving right past the shop, up to a light, and started hearing a flapping noise in the engine compartment. I quickly shut off the car and poked my head inside, only to find one of the bands of the belt was falling off. Thankfully I had the stock belt in my trunk, so I tried to throw that on. Unfortunately, after putting it on, the engine wouldn't turn. I then found myself being helped by the local neighbors, who joyfully sported gold teeth, wife beaters, and tattoos head to toe. We ended up pushing the car down the street. Low and behold, I routed the belt wrong. After fixing it, it fired right up. I was super stressed for a minute there.

After taking Rick for a ride and explained the noise, he said it was normal, that it was the supercharger sucking in air. I'm not so sure I agree with this, however, because I would imagine that if this were the case, I would hear the noise while parked, but it only happens under load. ??? He then made me feel like crap after he proceeded to tell me that I should have purchased the TVS for an extra $500, which is apparently much more efficient. At least my baby is running smooth, aside from the noise. Is there any good way to test for a slipping belt when it only occurs under load? Kevin at Magnusen said that it could also be the rear belt.


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## 6QTS11OZ (Mar 27, 2005)

PooperScooper said:


> I lost a belt today.  After putting on the Gatorback last night in an effort to eliminate that high pitch noise that occurs at 20% throttle, I still heard the noise after the installation. I decided to stop off by Synergy in Newark while on my way back from my girlfriend's house in San Jose to narrow down the issue. I ended up driving right past the shop, up to a light, and started hearing a flapping noise in the engine compartment. I quickly shut off the car and poked my head inside, only to find one of the bands of the belt was falling off. Thankfully I had the stock belt in my trunk, so I tried to throw that on. Unfortunately, after putting it on, the engine wouldn't turn. I then found myself being helped by the local neighbors, who joyfully sported gold teeth, wife beaters, and tattoos head to toe. We ended up pushing the car down the street. Low and behold, I routed the belt wrong. After fixing it, it fired right up. I was super stressed for a minute there.
> 
> After taking Rick for a ride and explained the noise, he said it was normal, that it was the supercharger sucking in air. I'm not so sure I agree with this, however, because I would imagine that if this were the case, I would hear the noise while parked, but it only happens under load. ??? He then made me feel like crap after he proceeded to tell me that I should have purchased the TVS for an extra $500, which is apparently much more efficient. At least my baby is running smooth, aside from the noise. Is there any good way to test for a slipping belt when it only occurs under load? Kevin at Magnusen said that it could also be the rear belt.


What you definitely need to do is get it tuned. The Magnuson tune is very conservative. My base with the Maggie tune was 433 rwhp. After my tuner finished tweaking the tune it was 470 rwhp. We then put on a 2.7" front pulley and I left the shop 500 rwhp". If the belt slips during the dyno run it will show on the dyno graph. GET HER TUNED!


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