# After Market Brake Parts Identification



## Koppster (Jul 27, 2008)

Sorry Guys, I'll probably have 1000 questions before I get my $#%& together.

My car has front disc brakes. I need a new master cylinder, mine leaks but I'm not sure what to ask for. :confused

I looked at what PY and Ames have in their catalogue and it looks close. Any advice on identifying aftermarket brake parts (master cylinders, disc pads, rotors, drums, shoes, etc.)?

Thanks,
Rick the Pain

2 Attachments:

1. My master cylinder (note the leakage)
2. PY picture from their catalogue


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## Rukee (Feb 8, 2007)

I'm thinking you should be able to go to the parts store and grab a master cylinder from any GM A-body car that had disk brakes from the factory. Like an `74 Chevelle with power disk front brakes. The master should look like the one you have.


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## Too Many Projects (Nov 15, 2008)

What you have is a pre-70 disc brake master. After 69 they were a rectangular shape. Either would work, but the oval one you have is more period correct. The replacement pic with the bleeders you found would be a very good choice. I just bought a correct repro master for my 70 Chevelle from this place Inline Tube - Preformed Stainless & OEM Brake Line Sets Since disc brakes were introduced in 67, look for a replacement for 67-69 and it should look like the one you found but may be less expensive.


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## 05GTO (Oct 6, 2004)

Rick,
There are a couple on *this link *that look exactly like the one you have, I purchased my 4 wheel disc conversion kit on the 67 from these guys.


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## Too Many Projects (Nov 15, 2008)

Here's a link to an Inline Tube ebay auction. This is where I got mine for $78.00 shipped.
eBay Motors: 67 68 69 Chevelle GTO 442 GS Master Cylinder NOS R (item 200298014122 end time Jan-18-09 18:20:51 PST)

Check the nut sizes on your existing master first. I have seen different line nut sizes listed by different suppliers. You will need to match them or get different lines to the distribution block.


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## 05GTO (Oct 6, 2004)

Too Many Projects said:


> Here's a link to an Inline Tube ebay auction. This is where I got mine for $78.00 shipped.
> eBay Motors: 67 68 69 Chevelle GTO 442 GS Master Cylinder NOS R (item 200298014122 end time Jan-18-09 18:20:51 PST)
> 
> Check the nut sizes on your existing master first. I have seen different line nut sizes listed by different suppliers. You will need to match them or get different lines to the distribution block.


That is a good price,


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## Too Many Projects (Nov 15, 2008)

05GTO said:


> That is a good price,


I couldn't pass it up. I got the correct rectangular one for 70 up models. They are all new, not rebuilt and supposedly built from GM blueprints. Unfortunately with the weather this week I haven't installed it yet to comment on fit. I'm hoping "you get what you pay for" doesn't apply here....


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## Koppster (Jul 27, 2008)

Just got this one from inline tube for $65...good?

Rick


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## Too Many Projects (Nov 15, 2008)

Koppster said:


> Just got this one from inline tube for $65...good?
> 
> Rick


Does it have bleeders ? Are the tube/nut sizes the same ?
Price is good, that's what I paid for mine too...

It doesn't NEED bleeders, but it makes it easier to expel the air and looks more original. I will come with a simple bench bleeding kit anyway. As long as it mounts up and the lines fit, it will work.:cheers


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## Koppster (Jul 27, 2008)

Too Many Projects said:


> Does it have bleeders ? Are the tube/nut sizes the same ?
> Price is good, that's what I paid for mine too...
> 
> It doesn't NEED bleeders, but it makes it easier to expel the air and looks more original. I will come with a simple bench bleeding kit anyway. As long as it mounts up and the lines fit, it will work.:cheers


I wanted the bleeder version but the guy was hesitant on the picture match up...no way to tell on the fitting sizes until it gets here...they will exchange if it is wrong. Betting on this one. At work and can't measure. Oops...am I supposed to be working?


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## Too Many Projects (Nov 15, 2008)

I put my master from Inline on a couple days ago and it fit like a glove. I am waiting for a correct length push rod now. The PO had a manual drum brake master on it and the rod is a different length from a power disc master. I snapped off the left caliper bleeder trying to get it open too, so I bought reman calipers from NAPA and put them on. The bleeders on the rear wheel cylinders came loose so all I need now is the rod and a helper to bleed it all out. Hopefully the rear cups won't leak from sitting so long.
Have you gotten yours yet Rick. Mine came in a few days but you are a little farther away from them too.


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## Koppster (Jul 27, 2008)

Too Many Projects said:


> I put my master from Inline on a couple days ago and it fit like a glove. I am waiting for a correct length push rod now. The PO had a manual drum brake master on it and the rod is a different length from a power disc master. I snapped off the left caliper bleeder trying to get it open too, so I bought reman calipers from NAPA and put them on. The bleeders on the rear wheel cylinders came loose so all I need now is the rod and a helper to bleed it all out. Hopefully the rear cups won't leak from sitting so long.
> Have you gotten yours yet Rick. Mine came in a few days but you are a little farther away from them too.


Mitch

I got it but haven't tried to install it yet. It "looks" correct.

They sent me the bleeder version which was a nice surprise. I'm "ass-u-me'ing" it is just a different version of what I have. Side by side comparison looks good.

I'm going to pull the mc off of the booster tomorrow and make sure things are the same. The fittings on the side looks right (smaller front).

Keep your fingers crossed for the rookie!

Rickster Sends...


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## Rukee (Feb 8, 2007)

TMP, you don't need a helpper to bleed the brakes. The master should have been bench bled before installing. When the time comes to bleed the rest, leave the cover off the master cylinder and open the bleeders one at a time starting with the furthest away from the master. Just let gravity bleed the system. That way your not pumping the pedal or creating any air bubbles in the lines. If you do need to pump the pedal, just pump it maybe an inch, then reliece back and forth till you get fluid out the bleeder, then let it gravity bleed till no air bubbles come out. I do brake work the time with no helper, and it's actually the best way to do it. :cheers


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## 68greengoat (Sep 15, 2005)

That goes against everything we've been taught. Just never heard of anyone "gravity bleeding". But hey, if it works..................


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## Koppster (Jul 27, 2008)

...or use a Mity Vac pump.


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## Rukee (Feb 8, 2007)

If the brake line was clear and you could see the fluid inside, you could see sometimes when you pump up the pedal, you could be taking one big air bubble inside the line and breaking it up into hundreds of little bubbles, making bleeding even more difficult. When you gravity bleed, all those air bubbles stay intact on their way to the bleeder. Gravity bleeding doesn't work 100% of the time, but it does work for the most of the cars.


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## Rukee (Feb 8, 2007)

Koppster said:


> ...or use a Mity Vac pump.


I have a tool called a phoenix injector that will force the fluid through the system backwards. Works great for some clutch master cylinders that are at radical angles that can be almost impossible to bleed. And some hard to bleed brakes too.


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## Koppster (Jul 27, 2008)

Rukee said:


> I have a tool called a phoenix injector that will force the fluid through the system backwards. Works great for some clutch master cylinders that are at radical angles that can be almost impossible to bleed. And some hard to bleed brakes too.



I got the mity vac for the bikes and love the way it works. This mc change will be the first time I used it on a car. The big challenge is keeping the mc filled while the tool is pulling fluid through. Works great but almost makes it a 2 person job.


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## Too Many Projects (Nov 15, 2008)

I tried to get it to gravity bleed but the flex hose at the rear has been open for many years and it wouldn't let any fluid get to the right rear cylinder. My intention is to get the fluid flowing with a few pumps and then let it gravity flow. I benched the master  If I had an old cap, I would put an air hose fitting on it and put a few pounds of air to get things moving.

Rick, to answer your question about the master bleeders, you're right, they aren't required if you bench bleed it first. The factory used them to expel the air faster on the line. They look more "correct" but in your case doesn't matter since the car was never offered with discs or a dual master... The only possible problem you could run into if the lines all match would be the push rod between the mc and booster. There are 2 common lengths and hopefully yours will be right.


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## Koppster (Jul 27, 2008)

Got the new mc in this morning and it works fine.

Bleeder screws on front calipers need replacement.

Bench bleeding the mc was a breeze, don't think I screwed it up.

Bleeding all 4 was a pain-in-the-a$$ only because the bleeder screws were boogered up.

Test ride okey dokey fine but a little harder than I like, will probably get new bleeder screws and tackle it again "someday".

BTW, from another thread, the parking brake cables are probably stretched to the point of needing replacment. I adjusted the brakes and still no joy. Another "someday" project.

Rickster Sends...


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## Too Many Projects (Nov 15, 2008)

If the pedal doesn't fade, there probably isn't any appreciable air in the system. Air will compress and let the pedal slowly drop on an extended stopping distance. If you notice that and give it 1 pump and the pedal comes up and is harder, then there may be air in it yet.
As for the hard feel, I noticed when I benched mine that it was rather difficult to push the plunger. I am hoping it is just close tolerances that will loosen a little with use. That could be what you are feeling as a hard pedal too. 
Mine is still sitting on jack stands waiting for warmer weather and a bleeder helper. We had a high of -1° yesterday....


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## Rukee (Feb 8, 2007)

Air will not cause a fading pedal, a brake fuild leak causing fading. If there was air in the system the pedal would be low the first or second pump, but the pedal will get harder and higher if you pump it a few times.
A hard pedal could be no booster action, no vaccuum to the booster, the wrong MC, or simply manual brakes at work.


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## geeteeohguy (Feb 2, 2008)

I got on this one too late! I've always had excellend results by filling the master about half way, and then inject brake fluid with a syringe through the outlet ports INTO the master! You can see air bubbles at first, and when you get a solid geyser out of the intake port, it's done. Do one port at a time, off the car, over a bucket or trash can. This method has worked for me for over 25 years. No pumping, no mess, no soft pedal issues. Just my opinion!!!


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## Koppster (Jul 27, 2008)

The bench bleed worked fine, InLine puts a kit in the box with the MC, it worked as advertised, all the bubbles went away. It did get kinda hard to push the plunger.

No fade in the pedal at all so maybe I got it right and I'm just expecting it to feel like my Suburban. 

The parking brake cables look like they will be a joy to replace.


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