# Opinions on sound deadeners



## dan woodland (Jul 24, 2013)

Hi all,

Since my interior is out of the car I wondered if I should install sound deadener on the floors. My floors are in very good shape, barely any rust.



I know the material is expensive, like "high end heat shield and sound deadening products" so I wondered if the insulating material available at the big box home improvement stores is the same thing as the high end material? I've seen before where the same product is simply rebadged and sold at a premium, hence my question to any of you "restorers" out there. 

So that was question one, question two would be should I bother with the deadener or should I "POR 15" the floors since they are exposed? I assume since the car looks this good after 45 years it's not a requirement/necessity.

Any opinions would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance, Dan


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## Instg8ter (Sep 28, 2010)

Polar duct insulator is the foil backed adhesive foam at the Home improvement stores and it works just ass well as the expensive stuff for a fraction of the price.:thumbsup: I doubt your new resto will see much rain or get a leak in the seals or rear window so spraying it is up to you. The red oxide primer is tough stuff when factory applied.


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## geeteeohguy (Feb 2, 2008)

A friend did his entire '67 GTO with Frost King from Lowes. Total cost, $40. It worked out great, and the car is tight and quiet, not to mention cooler. If /when I install new carpets in mine, I will follow suit. Totally superior to the tar paper used back then. I would not buy Dynamatt, as I refuse to grossy over pay for 'brand name' status...it's about 8 times the price of comparable stuff.


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## Orion88 (Apr 24, 2012)

As long as the product is rubber butyl based it will work very well.


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## dan woodland (Jul 24, 2013)

Great, thanks gents!!!


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## Orion88 (Apr 24, 2012)

Amazon.com: FatMat 100 Sq Ft x 70 mil Thick Self-Adhesive Butyl MegaMat Sound Deadener Bulk Pack w/Install Kit: Automotive

I bought this for my 79 Silverado and I should have enough left over to do most, if not all, of my 70 GTO. I spent a lot of time researching and it was the best rubber-butyl based product for the money. $2.40 per square foot certainly isn't terrible. You can use cheaper products from Home Depot or Lowe's, and they will certainly help, but the products that are specifically designed for automotive purposes will do the trick the best. You can throw a boom box in the back seat for a stereo. Will it work? Sure. Will it sound nearly as good as a properly installed automotive sound system? Probably not.


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## Matthew (Feb 11, 2011)

Want to be careful putting that stuff in a Silver-A-do... the suspension is not designed for all that extra weight.


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## Orion88 (Apr 24, 2012)

Haha, hey I'm Pontiac all the way, but they never made a truck. At least it's still GM and not Fuurrd.


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## 666bbl (Apr 13, 2014)

Don't forget, the early GMC pickups had Pontiac V8s for their V8 engine option. Just sayin...


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## bondobill (Oct 24, 2011)

The floors on my sons car where rust free also. We ended up cleaning the floor really well, rattle caned a few spots that where down to bare metal and called it good.

We used a product called Rattle Trap Xtreme on my sons 68.
I believe it is 80 mil.
I think a roll was somewhere around $200. More then enough to do the interior.
It was very pliable, easy to work with and adheres well.
We also used it to cover the interior sides of the doors and quarter panels prior to install of interior trim panels





Bill


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## crustysack (Oct 5, 2008)

I also used the fatmat rattle trap, bought 200 sq ft , did the WHOLE interior, whole trunk, 2 layers in many areas( floors, doors,firewall) made a HUGE difference. the little wooden roller that comes with the product is junk save some frustration and pitch it. buy a J-roller (formica roller) I got a 4 inch one and a 1 inch one( cheap at home depot or lowes) use a quality razor knife with a break away blade, the blade gums up quickly and blades are cheaper than stress. also use a adjustable heat gun or a hair blow driver. the material will stick MUCH better when heated and will take bends easier. POP any air bubbles trapped underneath wth razor knife and use roller to mash material down. Works much better the warmer it is( the car metal and the material)


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## xconcepts (Jan 4, 2009)

I did my entire floor of my 66 with audiotechnix. Works great for heat and rattles and sound deadening. I used it in my Buick enclave when I was competing in stereo competitions. Gained a couple decibels and stopped the rattles. Great price, service and product.


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## dan woodland (Jul 24, 2013)

Nice looking work crustysack and bondobill.

How long did it take you guys (crustysack, bondobill and concepts) to do it?


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## bondobill (Oct 24, 2011)

Couple nights
Brent...my son..... did the majority of it
My 60 year old knees don't take kindly to that sort of work anymore :thumbsup:

Bill


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## xconcepts (Jan 4, 2009)

Once you have the seats and carpet out, should only take a few hours. Just because you have to cut the mat down to size to fit. I think mine took about 5 from pulling the seats to reinstalling


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## dan woodland (Jul 24, 2013)

OK, thanks guys.

Did you put the sound deadener on the doors (on the face) and/or inside the door? The inside of my doors seem to be covered in a factory sound proofing that is not falling off. I'm asking because I wondered if the thickness will hinder the door panels fit and finish or not when the deadener is installed on the face of the doors.

Thanks again for your replies. Dan


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## xconcepts (Jan 4, 2009)

Dan, 

I did not, wasn't needed. I put mat down to help with the heat from the floor, it helped immensely.


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## dan woodland (Jul 24, 2013)

xconcepts said:


> Dan,
> 
> I did not, wasn't needed. I put mat down to help with the heat from the floor, it helped immensely.


OK, thanks!


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## bondobill (Oct 24, 2011)

Dan
We put it in the face of the doors, none on the inside.
It didn't affect the install of the trim panels.
The doors make a nice solid "thud" sound when you close them


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## dan woodland (Jul 24, 2013)

Sweet, thank you kind sir!



bondobill said:


> Dan
> We put it in the face of the doors, none on the inside.
> It didn't affect the install of the trim panels.
> The doors make a nice solid "thud" sound when you close them


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## crustysack (Oct 5, 2008)

I installed a layer on the doorskin and the interior of the door, did not effect door panel. took me about 20 hours but I did 2 layers on a lot of the car and I was a little anal (alot really) about covering EVERYTHING


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## dan woodland (Jul 24, 2013)

HA! I'm afraid I'll end up doing it closer to what you did so I'm going to have to wait for a bit - I'm an analyst so it's ingrained in me to investigate and this "project" has opened up some new avenues of questions for me. I have too many irons in he fire at the moment as well. 

Thanks for the reply/info!!

Dan



crustysack said:


> I installed a layer on the doorskin and the interior of the door, did not effect door panel. took me about 20 hours but I did 2 layers on a lot of the car and I was a little anal (alot really) about covering EVERYTHING


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## dan woodland (Jul 24, 2013)

I decided to install a sound deadener so I removed my interior and found this... lots of glue and jute backing stuck to it. I bought some glue remover and got to work. During the glue removal I tried to keep it away from the seam sealer but some still came up with the solvent.

My question is will the sound deadener be sufficient to replace the seam sealer or do I need to get replacement seam sealer?

Before I started...




What it looks like now... mostly, I still have some cleanup.



As always thanks in advance for any and all help, Dan

PS. and what is the optimum installation temperature range? it's getting cold here so my days are number to get this done.


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## geeteeohguy (Feb 2, 2008)

Yes, use new seam sealer where needed. Optimum temp is the warmer the better, but at least 70 degrees. Still in the high 90's out where I am!


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## dan woodland (Jul 24, 2013)

geeteeohguy said:


> Yes, use new seam sealer where needed. Optimum temp is the warmer the better, but at least 70 degrees. Still in the high 90's out where I am!


Thanks geeteeohguy, where do I get seam sealer?


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## allpawl66 (May 9, 2008)

Peel & seal , $1.00 a sq. ft. foil back & no smell .


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## geeteeohguy (Feb 2, 2008)

You can get seam sealer at any good auto body paint supplier. The NAPA auto paint supplier in my town has it. Not expensive, either.


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## dan woodland (Jul 24, 2013)

Thanks!!


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## albin79 (Oct 23, 2014)

How about Lizard Skin? Anyone used this product? The second coat with ceramic is supposed to be great for heat control.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2pBujcz5bvY


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## dan woodland (Jul 24, 2013)

albin79 said:


> How about Lizard Skin? Anyone used this product? The second coat with ceramic is supposed to be great for heat control.
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2pBujcz5bvY


Looks like it does a nice job but I'd never be able to use it, my compressor would never keep up with a constant spray. Also, 8 gallons of that is much heavier than the stick on insulation - at least the 50mil FatMat I used.

By the way, turns out the FatMat plant is 15 minutes from my office!


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## geeteeohguy (Feb 2, 2008)

Dan, if that's your car, I want you to do mine, next. Excellent work. Guaranteed to make a HUGE difference in road noise. Well done!


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## dan woodland (Jul 24, 2013)

Thanks! I believe if I'm going to do something I need to do it right the first time. Especially since it will be covered and I don't want to take out the interior again 



geeteeohguy said:


> Dan, if that's your car, I want you to do mine, next. Excellent work. Guaranteed to make a HUGE difference in road noise. Well done!


Hey bring it over here, Ohio, or better yet since you are in Cali-forn-i-a send me a ticket and well get started!!!  (I'm not kidding, I'd be happy to help)


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