# how do you get back that "solid" door close?



## ylwgto (Oct 27, 2009)

the driver door on 66 has not closed properly in a long time. even with a hard close, it only partially engages the door latch and it takes a firm push or pull to get it to actually fully close. having just changed out my door weatherstripping, it is even worse now. 

how do I get a proper door close back? i've read doors sag over years and that I should buy and instal new strikers, but have not tried diealing with either. the in-door latch mechanism seems to be working fine. where should i start? Thanks!


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## Lemans guy (Oct 14, 2014)

Tighten the hinge screws, the big hinges on the front of the doors


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## GTOTIGR (May 3, 2020)

Hi ylwgto,

I’ve found the best way to get the doors to close and sound solid is through proper alignment and good seals.

The approach I used was to place tape over the latch gap on the door and then apply putty over the tape so when you slowly press the door to the jam stud it leaves an impression as to it’s location. From there you can adjust the jam stud up/ down or in or out until it aligns correctly and closes as it should.

To Lemans guy’s point, to start, the hinge needs to be sound to prevent door droop or un-natural movement.

Good luck!


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## armyadarkness (Dec 7, 2020)

If you were in the South, you could weld em up like the Duke boys, but in Cali they probably need to open close.


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## ylwgto (Oct 27, 2009)

Lemans guy said:


> Tighten the hinge screws, the big hinges on the front of the doors


they seem pretty tight, but I'll take another look...hard to get to, those buggers.


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## O52 (Jan 27, 2019)

Check for worn hinges by lifting the door when open. Any movement means you need new bushings and / or pins


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## ylwgto (Oct 27, 2009)

no movement in hinges and all hinge screws are tight as heck.

guess I'll try adjusting the door striker stud next. do they thread into a fixed nut or will it drop off down into the bodywork if I take the stud out all the way?
Does my door striker look worn out?

Here are pics. Looks like I'm missing the spring and spring detent guide (sheared off?) on the lower hinge...Both sides are like this. Assuming I have to remove the front fender to install new hinges, I'll probably just live with it all for now 

Thanks!


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## Lemans guy (Oct 14, 2014)

I believe you might could pull those hinge screws up tighter. Liquid wrench spay is the best stuff to loosen em up gently, give it some soak time and work them easy and then snug them up. They are tight from rust, but not have normally loosed I bet from position 50 years ago.

we need a good body man to weigh in and help us,...but I think you could pull those up a bit


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## 67ventwindow (Mar 3, 2020)

My drivers door drops two inches when it opens. That was a fine hello when that first happened.


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## ylwgto (Oct 27, 2009)

Lemans guy said:


> I believe you might could pull those hinge screws up tighter. Liquid wrench spay is the best stuff to loosen em up gently, give it some soak time and work them easy and then snug them up. They are tight from rust, but not have normally loosed I bet from position 50 years ago.
> 
> we need a good body man to weigh in and help us,...but I think you could pull those up a bit



I'll try again, but they have those crush washers under the bolt heads that make it look like they can't go any tighter. the phillips heads make me NERVOUS! shoulda been a hex head.


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## 67ventwindow (Mar 3, 2020)

I had a impact screwdriver that you hit with a hammer to get those off. (1982) is the last time I seen mine. Could be in a box in the basement.


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## PontiacJim (Dec 29, 2012)

You want to look at the door/body lines and make sure the door is fit correctly/square. Door hinge pins wear. Can you grab the door at the back at the door handle and move it up or down indicating play in the hinge/door pins. You can get a kit to replace pins/bushings.

How about door tilt - in or out too much from top to bottom? Does it close better with the window rolled down?

Next would be the striker pin is worn where the "jaws" clamp the pin. Jaws could be worn and not closing well. Maybe give it a good shot of brake clean to get any old grease/lube out from the jaws and then WD-40 to re-lube and work the jaws/door. The jaws should snap closed fairly fast and solid when testing their closure.

And, it may be a simple adjustment where you will have to slide the striker pin about. The pin has a hex center for a hex wrench. Loosen the striker and move it around. Generally, look for any part of the striker that shows where the latch jaws may be hitting (shiny spot), and then move the striker pin in the opposite direction to center the pin to center it better with the door latch. Then re-tighten.


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## ylwgto (Oct 27, 2009)

PontiacJim said:


> You want to look at the door/body lines and make sure the door is fit correctly/square. Door hinge pins wear. Can you grab the door at the back at the door handle and move it up or down indicating play in the hinge/door pins. You can get a kit to replace pins/bushings.
> 
> How about door tilt - in or out too much from top to bottom? Does it close better with the window rolled down?
> 
> ...


no play in door pins, but the springs are gone and the detent guides sheared off.
no sag when opened, door looks square.
there is a bit of tilt, lower door corner is out from body a tad, but may be from the new door weatherstripping and bumpers i just put in.
I'll play with the striker adjustment and follow your steps, good advice. thanks. I may just order a new set for $10...mine look pretty chewed up.


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## ylwgto (Oct 27, 2009)

I cleaned and lube the door mechanism then changed in new striker bolts. made no difference after adjusting this way and that for 45m. Seems like I cannot get the striker outboard enough (away from the side of the car) for the lock claw to fully engage.

must be the door claw mechanism is worn out. any other ideas before I consign myself to live with it?


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## Montreux (Mar 8, 2009)

The shiny ring on the post may be a sign that the door is not correctly aligned, and the post is being used to force the door into the correct position. If the door is a little low (or high) just before the latch engages, you need to adjust the hinges. And you can loosen the post and nudge it around to properly mate with the latch. 

I believe the correct lube for the latch is white lithium grease, available as an aerosol foam. Work it down into the latch as best you can. 

I see a thread listed below “Aligning Doors”; should be a good read.


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