# Internal Engine Flush Cleaner For '66 Gto



## take5 (Aug 9, 2009)

Are There Any Good Products Out There For An Internal Engine Flush Cleaning?
All Original 389 Engine With 120k Miles. Doesn"t Use Or Burn Oil,
Good Compression, Run's Good & No Oil Leaks.
Engine Was Not Run For About 1.5 Years.


----------



## 05GTO (Oct 6, 2004)

I've used Sea Foam for years with great results, here is a video.


----------



## 68greengoat (Sep 15, 2005)

:agree


----------



## ride400 (Jun 16, 2009)

same here I have used sea foam before. dump in 1/3 of the can just before a oil change 1/3 in fuel tank and the rest in the brake boost line. the videos show it all.


----------



## 66tempestGT (Nov 28, 2009)

i would be cautious about taking a high mileage engine that is not giving any problems and flushing/cleaning it out. sometimes the stuff that builds up in there can be your friend. start breaking loose old buildup and you may end up with leaks and even blowby and oil consumption.


----------



## 68greengoat (Sep 15, 2005)

ride400 said:


> same here I have used sea foam before. dump in 1/3 of the can just before a oil change 1/3 in fuel tank and the rest in the brake boost line. the videos show it all.


Don't be afraid to dump a full can in the fuel tank. I believe on the can it states you can use the whole can in 12 - 20 gals of gas(I was going to check a can, but I'm out). Brake line? Now that would make me nervous. If any foreign matter builds up on the walls of the line, where is is it going to go if it's freed? It's not like it will get burnt up and sent out the tailpipe. May just end up plugging the line. Maybe it does something completely different?


----------



## 66tempestGT (Nov 28, 2009)

68greengoat said:


> Don't be afraid to dump a full can in the fuel tank. I believe on the can it states you can use the whole can in 12 - 20 gals of gas(I was going to check a can, but I'm out). Brake line? Now that would make me nervous. If any foreign matter builds up on the walls of the line, where is is it going to go if it's freed? It's not like it will get burnt up and sent out the tailpipe. May just end up plugging the line. Maybe it does something completely different?


its just a big vacuum hose. burnt up and sent out the tailpipe is exactly what will happen. would take a lot of buildup to stop up a 1/2" line.


----------



## freethinker (Nov 14, 2009)

be careful with things that claim to flush that go into the oil pan. if you flush too much crap down into your oil pan you can clog your oil pump screen and cause bearing failure.


----------



## 68greengoat (Sep 15, 2005)

66tempestGT said:


> its just a big vacuum hose. burnt up and sent out the tailpipe is exactly what will happen. would take a lot of buildup to stop up a 1/2" line.


That clears up what it actually is. Your right, no harm there.


----------



## F-RICE (May 11, 2009)

at 120k , if it aint broke dont try to fix it. You might want to leave well enough alone.


----------



## geeteeohguy (Feb 2, 2008)

I've had a ton of experience with engine flushes as a professional mechanic. In my experience, they do more harm than good. They can strip the oil film off of bearings and cylinders, causing galling and failure, loosen gunk and clog oil galleys and passages, and cause severe engine damage. The best thing to do would be to drain the old oil, put in high detergent oil, perhaps 4 quarts of 10-30 and 2 quarts of ATF (ATF is very high detergent), run it for about 15 minutes, drain the oil, and install new, ZDDP fortified oil and filter. You'll be FINE. The whole "engine flush" thing is an absolute scam that is being used by the auto repair industry to bolster sales. New cars are so dependable that it's hard to make it in the dealerships these days. Cars no longer need ball joints, valve jobs, etc. They just run and run. I've checked with a ton of manufacturers, and NONE recommends engine flushes. In fact, they say NOT to do it. It's snake oil, y'all, and it's been around a long long time..............


----------



## batmans (Aug 16, 2007)

I run Pennzoil Platinum synthetic in my NSX and GTOs and my brother's RX8 and Outback.

There is suppose to be cleaning agents built in the oil.

I noticed after the first oil change all the cars' oil was a nasty black after 3k miles.

Subsequent oil changes have yielded cleaner looking oil to what we were using in the past.....


----------



## take5 (Aug 9, 2009)

Thanks for all the great input, ideas, suggestions and technical discussions regarding "Engine Flushing" Yes, I am a believer that if it ain't broke, then don't fix it.
Because my GTO hasn't been run very much over the past 20 years and I mean parked only starting it every once in a while to the tune of replacing about 8 batteries.
My question was based on the fact that the engine sat around for a while.


----------



## geeteeohguy (Feb 2, 2008)

Take 5, Oil doesn't go bad from sitting. It gets contaminated if you start the engine a lot but don't drive the car. Cold engine operation causes moisture and acids to build up in the crankcase and that can cause damage to an engine over the long haul. If your car has just been sitting, the oil will be ok. Just change it when you put the car back into regular service. I've seen it go both ways: if the oil was fairly fresh at the time the vehicle was mothballed, it does no harm. I've seen vehicles put away with 10,000 mile, contaminated oil, and the bearings got pitted by the acidity of the oil in just a couple of years. Just be sure if you start the car, drive it about ten miles. Warm everything up. You'd be better off just turning it over with the coil wire off every few months otherwise for a few revs to keep it from seizing and to keep the valve springs in good shape. (not good for the springs to remain compressed for years at a time!)


----------



## ride400 (Jun 16, 2009)

great post ^


----------



## 66tempestGT (Nov 28, 2009)

geeteeohguy said:


> I've had a ton of experience with engine flushes as a professional mechanic. In my experience, they do more harm than good. They can strip the oil film off of bearings and cylinders, causing galling and failure, loosen gunk and clog oil galleys and passages, and cause severe engine damage. The best thing to do would be to drain the old oil, put in high detergent oil, perhaps 4 quarts of 10-30 and 2 quarts of ATF (ATF is very high detergent), run it for about 15 minutes, drain the oil, and install new, ZDDP fortified oil and filter. You'll be FINE. The whole "engine flush" thing is an absolute scam that is being used by the auto repair industry to bolster sales. New cars are so dependable that it's hard to make it in the dealerships these days. Cars no longer need ball joints, valve jobs, etc. They just run and run. I've checked with a ton of manufacturers, and NONE recommends engine flushes. In fact, they say NOT to do it. It's snake oil, y'all, and it's been around a long long time..............


this one too:agree


----------

