# Pilot bushing replacement



## Jared (Apr 19, 2013)

It's been a while since I posted on here so I figured I'd share what I'm working on. Been dealing with the dreaded rattly shifter for a while now. I had replaced the clutch about 1000 miles ago and forgot to buy a pilot bushing. The shifter rattled before I replaced the clutch and I thought the really worn throw out bearing was the culprit. I lived with the rattle way longer than I should have because I hated the idea of redoing the entire clutch job. Add to that the garage I have to work in is pretty cramped compared to the one at my old house. Also, no lift so I'm doing this on stands on my back. I decided to tear into it and am really glad that I did. The bushing is shot. I mean, 1/16 of an inch too big and all mushroomed out shot. I was able to remove the old bearing using the white bread trick. I have not been killing myself to get this done. Car isn't going anywhere until the spring anyway. While I have it up, I will also be dealing with exhaust. The rear pipes both rotted where the hangers were welded on so it was time to fix that as well. Here's some pictures of where I am ow and one of how bad the bushing was.


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## PontiacJim (Dec 29, 2012)

With that much wear, how is the play in the input shaft on the transmission? I am not a Muncie expert, not rebuilt any, but while the trans is out, I might have a shop take a look at it just to make sure all your bearings are OK.


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## Jared (Apr 19, 2013)

My dad's friend said the same thing. The front bearing would be the concern here since it was subjected to way more play than it should have. I plan on popping off the front retainer and taking a look at it as a precaution. I'm not sure what is normal play is either but it doesn't have very much.


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## PontiacJim (Dec 29, 2012)

OK, I think it just best to check now than install and have issues. If you use a new gasket when you pull the front retainer, there are 2 different thickness and you want to use the correct one. I learned this from watching a Youtube video that shows how to determine this so you do not use the thin gasket when you need the thick one and damage the bearing retainer when you reinstall it. 




I would also regasket/reseal the trans while out if you have not had this done at some point. You can get a kit for this.


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## Jared (Apr 19, 2013)

Thanks for the tip. I didn't know that gasket was spaced. I popped the cover off and the bearing looks fine. The car had the wrong transmission in it when I bought it. For some reason it had a Saginaw out of an early 80's Camaro in it. The Muncie that's in it now is a rebuilt that I picked up a few years ago (probably less than 1000 miles on it or so) and is bone dry so I think it'll be OK. 

I've been doing this project a little at a time. After work to unwind. Basically a half hour here or there as I've had time. I'll keep you posted.


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## Jared (Apr 19, 2013)

Hey guys. I know this may be a dumb question, especially seeing that I've had the transmission in and out of this car a few times in the past but here we go. I am having a stinker of a time getting the transmission back in this time. I have triple checked the alignment of the clutch disk with the plastic tool and double checked that with an old pilot shaft with a spare front bearing retainer and all seems well. The bearing retainer will slide in about 2/3 the way fairly easy with the input shaft through it and into the clutch disk and I assume into the pilot bushing. I didn't force it any further because I didn't need to get it stuck in there When I go to put the transmission in it gets to where the bolts will go in about half way and that is it. Shining a light in it looks like the bearing retainer is just going in the bell housing hole. But is does look to be lined up. I don't want to put any real pressure on the ears since I've seen several used transmissions out there with broken or welded ears.

Anyone know a trick that will work? I was thinking about putting my wife in the car to press the clutch pedal while I tried shaking the transmission into place. While I expected this part of the job to be a PIA because of the weight, I didn't expect to get this close and not be able to do it. I appreciate any input in advance.


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## PontiacJim (Dec 29, 2012)

Yes, have the wife push dwon on the pedal to release the pressure from the clutch disc which could be slightly out of alignment and not giving that little extra slip in. If that does not work, get back with us.

Additionally, and I assume you know, the clutch disc does have a front and back side and usually is marked just in case you flipped it around in error.


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## Jared (Apr 19, 2013)

Good deal. It may be the weekend before I get back to this. Tough working around work and family which is why I picked the winter to do this, no rush.

I am 99% sure I got the disc in right. Since I am using all the same clutch parts that came out and was careful to keep them arranged in the right order. I am pretty sure that I am good there. I'll let you know how it turns out.


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## Jared (Apr 19, 2013)

It worked. The wife pushed in the clutch pedal and it slid right in. It was only off a hair but it was enough to make my life difficult. I brought it for a quick ride and all of the drive line vibrations are gone. I couldn't go too long because I am also in the process of swapping the exhaust and it currently has no mufflers.

Thanks a bunch for your help.


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## integrity6987 (May 10, 2017)

From the original post:


Jared said:


> I was able to remove the old bearing using the white bread trick


What's the white bread trick? Probably be doing this next winter on my car. I replaced the clutch in my '67 LeMans 30 years ago with no knowing much....what could go wrong?!!

That went fine - but now I prefer to go into projects with my eye's open.


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## Old Man Taylor (May 9, 2011)

The factory did not use a bushing. They used a ball bearing, P/N 7109. I had the same experience with a bushing, but there was a reason I had to use it. I had an engine completely done when I found out that I could not get the bearing to go into the crankshaft. It turns out that a few of the cranks for engines going into automatics were not machined for a pilot bearing. So to keep from disassembling the engine I had some bushings turned down so I could get them into the crank. I was drag racing the car at the time, and when I took it to the track I could hardly make the shift from 3-4 (M-20 at the time). It did not hurt the transmission.


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## Jared (Apr 19, 2013)

integrity6987 said:


> From the original post:
> 
> 
> What's the white bread trick? Probably be doing this next winter on my car. I replaced the clutch in my '67 LeMans 30 years ago with no knowing much....what could go wrong?!!
> ...


Sorry for very late response. The white bread trick is where you ball up and stuff the white part of soft bread (no crust) into the pilot hole and then hammer it in with a dowel or a long bolt that is as close to the same size as the hole. I used a large metric sized bolt wrapped in electrical tape to match the size. As you hammer it in the bread compresses behind the bushing compresses and it will pop out. I've seen this done with grease as well but that can be messy. The nice part about the bread is once the bushing is out you just dig the bread out with a screw driver. This is way easier on a lift or if the engine is out of the car. I did this engine in, on my back with the car on stands. 

My saga on this continues. I replaced the exhaust system on the car last winter/early spring at the same time as the transmission work. I had tested the transmission work originally the car was running straight pipes that exited under the floors so I couldn't hear the rattle. Now that I have the exhaust done, the rattle is back. I think there is something worn in the clutch linkage since it seems really sloppy. I'm going to tear into that this weekend and see what's wrong. The only other possibility at this point is the drive shaft.


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## integrity6987 (May 10, 2017)

Thanks. I'll keep that hydraulic bread trick in mind when i replace mine.


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## Jared (Apr 19, 2013)

I replaced all of the clutch linkage between the pedal and the fork (fork was new a couple years ago) including the springs. Most of the parts were extremely worn and the springs were pretty weak compared to the new ones. I also found some very creative things used instead of the factory clips. There was a paperclip holding the clutch rod to the pedal. The slop is gone from the linkage and most of the rattle is gone from the shifter. What's funny is there is a noise coming from underneath the car when it warms up that wasn't there before I pulled everything apart last winter. I thought worn linkage was causing it but it's still there. I have a really bad feeling that one of the springs on the pressure plate snapped and I'll be pulling this all apart again. The noise is there when the car is at idle in neutral. It goes away when I press in the clutch.


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