# Off to the body shop!



## MO Goat (Apr 7, 2011)

Last week I stripped the interior out (except for the door panels. Seriously, how do you get the window cranks off with that tool? :confused), took off the headlights, tail lamps and drove (yes, "drove") it onto the trailer Saturday and delivered it to the body shop. In 5 months I should have it back. I know he said 5 months, but I'm predicting 7-8. The shop is about 10 minutes from where I work so I'll be able to check on it periodically & take pictures of the progress. 
They'll pull the engine & tranny this week and deliver it to the engine shop for a rebuild then pull the body off the frame, blast it and paint it. 
I still have to get some panels and found the Endura front bumper & hood from Dyancorn, but am having trouble sourcing the trunk lid. I understand a '69 lid won't fit on my '68. Any suggestions?
Any other tips I should know about (before it's too late) while it's being painted?


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## 68GTO4004Spd (Jun 19, 2008)

Sounds very familiar, last year I dropped mine off at the body shop and was told 5 months, 11 months later I got the car back "almost" done, still need to take it back to be finished up (inclusions and unfinished details). I hope you have much better luck than I did with the time frame. See my thread titled "68 goes to the paint shop" if you want to follow my journey.
As for the window cranks, slide the tool in between the handle and the panel (or plastic thing if that's still there) align the tool with the handle direction, eiher directly underneith it or directly opposite the handle depending of which direction the clip was put on, then push toward the center until it pushes the clip off. 
Aftermarket body panels don't fit worth a crap, your bodyman will have a lot of work going that route. Try going to swap meets and scouring this site and Perfomance Years forum under parts for sale. You are right the 68 deck lid is a one year only deal, hard to find and expensive. I have one that's a little better than yours but it has some rust holes clear through the corners. I have heard nothin but bad about aftermarket endura bumper replacements, ty hard to find a good one or fix the on you have.
What color are you going to paint it? Looks like it might have been Springmist green, that's a beautiful color.
Good luck and keep the pics coming.


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## Instg8ter (Sep 28, 2010)

Stop in the shop regularly to check the progress, keep an open line of communication as a resto contract is an evolving animal, have them give you a change order addendum estimate for any additional work they find needs done that will increase the price. Let them know from the beginning that you plan to be on top of this project from start to finish. It would have killed me to have my car in Limbo for 11 months....:shutme


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## MO Goat (Apr 7, 2011)

Good eye! Yes, it is Springmist green with vinyl top & black interior and I plan to repaint it that color despite my wife's suggestion of orange, red, black or dark green. Those colors look great, but I've never seen a Springmist green one in person and since it's the original color, I'm going with that.
Glad I asked about the panels. So you drop $400 and it doesn't even fit? I've called WI, CO, TX and AZ today trying to find a lid, but I'll widen the search for a hood & a bumper. The mounts on my bumper are rusted out and it's pretty tweaked so I don't think it's savable. On a side note, how easy are the front bumpers to get off? One of my customers has a '68 convertible sitting in a field he wants me to help sell and I believe the bumper is in good shape.
My guy works on one car at a time and has invited me to stop by as often as possible so I'll be sure to do that. If it takes this long to find the body parts, it may work out if it takes longer to paint it! :lol:


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## MO Goat (Apr 7, 2011)

Found this bumper out in CA on eBay. Anyone have any experience with them? Seems like a decent price compared to what I've seen.

eBay - New & used electronics, cars, apparel, collectibles, sporting goods & more at low prices


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## FlambeauHO (Nov 24, 2011)

Looks like a nice bumper, hard to beat a warranty but its gonna cost you some money with shipping.


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## crustysack (Oct 5, 2008)

seller seems legitimate- read the feedbacks not one negative or unhappy customer- and some spent A LOT of money- try The Parts Place for the lid Muscle Car Parts, Pontiac GTO Parts, NOS GM Auto Part, Trans AM, Oldsmobile 442 Cutlass, Buick GS Skylark, Firebird, Bonneville, Grand Prix, Catalina, Olds 88 98, Starfire, Chroming, Polishing, Welding, Stainless Steel Straightening, Aluminum, Restor or Bethels Goat Farm 888-999-7876


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## MO Goat (Apr 7, 2011)

FlambeauHO said:


> Looks like a nice bumper, hard to beat a warranty but its gonna cost you some money with shipping.


I hear you, but some of the ones I'm finding are from $700 to $1,000 AND need to be finished. Not to mention a repro is going to run me about $500 with shipping and from what I'm learning, may not fit very well.
Yes, the 2 year warranty is nice and I just called them and they were pretty friendly & helpful.


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## FlambeauHO (Nov 24, 2011)

Sounds good to me! Hope mine is useable, it looks good but I am still a month or two away from working it over.


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## MO Goat (Apr 7, 2011)

I pulled the trigger on the bumper and found a trunk lid on eBay (link below) that looks good, but he wants $350 for it before freight. Is this reasonable? Should I keep looking? I see repro ones in OPGI go for $380+ before freight, but no one has a '68 and I've called everywhere from CA, AZ and TX to IL, MD and MI. One wanted $1,200 for a lid that was primed! Wow!

eBay - New & used electronics, cars, apparel, collectibles, sporting goods & more at low prices


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## FlambeauHO (Nov 24, 2011)

I don't know, Guy has zero feedback and sounds like a prick. Up to you ...


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## MO Goat (Apr 7, 2011)

FlambeauHO said:


> I don't know, Guy has zero feedback and sounds like a prick. Up to you ...


Threw $1 at it for sh*t and grins. Must not be part of the Goat Brotherhood. I just found one about 2 hours from me, rust free and for $50. Score!

On a side note, talked to a guy who does construction for my plant about some old cars he has because he had a LeMans parts car. Walked into his shop and there sat a '68 GTO in Springmist green. The kicker? He bought it off a guy for $1,000 that was hauling it to the crusher. Rust free and everything. Glad this one was saved. He has about 50 cars and it was parked next to a '70 GTO he was getting ready to sell. He also had a great '67 GTO with a built 455. Not a bad way to spend a lunch hour!


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## MO Goat (Apr 7, 2011)

MO Goat said:


> Threw $1 at it for sh*t and grins. Must not be part of the Goat Brotherhood. I just found one about 2 hours from me, rust free and for $50. Score!


Doesn't matter anyways. He cancelled my bid.


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## FlambeauHO (Nov 24, 2011)

Ha ha what a douche


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## MO Goat (Apr 7, 2011)

Stopped by the shop today to drop off the front bumper and snapped some pix of the progress. Engine is pulled (who needs an engine stand! :lol and they started taking the paint off the front fender. They're finishing up a '69 Judge tribute and will jump on mine full time in a week or two. 
Found an OEM rust free trunk lid today too...now for the hood and I think I have a line on that too.
Noticed the guy on eBay in SD relisted his trunk lid, but started the bid at $350 instead of $1 like last time.


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## MO Goat (Apr 7, 2011)

*Headers vs. manifolds*

Does anyone have an opinion or advice on headers vs. stock exhaust manifolds? Mine came with headers that were rusted out so they'll need to be replaced and I also found a pair of manifolds for $80...which is much cheaper.
I'm going for the stock look so I'm leaning towards the manifolds, but wanted to consult the brotherhood on what I'd be giving up or gaining.


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## BearGFR (Aug 25, 2008)

If you want a good compromise between performance and ease of installation/fit, go with reproduction ram air cast iron manifolds. Nothing's going to perform as well as a GOOD set of headers, but then headers are -always- a pain to fit and work with, no matter which brand you get. 

Bear


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## FlambeauHO (Nov 24, 2011)

I have the ram air d-port manifolds and I am very happy with the performance and of course the fit.


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## MO Goat (Apr 7, 2011)

FlambeauHO said:


> I have the ram air d-port manifolds and I am very happy with the performance and of course the fit.


So those would be RA III models?


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## FlambeauHO (Nov 24, 2011)

No, the HO and ram air in 68 were ram air and later that year ram air II. Ram air III was 69. Doubt the manifolds changed much if at all though.


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## MO Goat (Apr 7, 2011)

FlambeauHO said:


> No, the HO and ram air in 68 were ram air and later that year ram air II. Ram air III was 69. Doubt the manifolds changed much if at all though.


Please excuse my ignorance as I learn, but are the HO manifolds freer flowing or something? Could I port & polish the regular manifolds?

On a side note and total rookie question, but how do you get the back, driver's side spark plug wire not to rub on the steering linkage? Buy a 90 degree one for that plug?


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## Instg8ter (Sep 28, 2010)

wire looms attached to the valve covers hold everything apart and out of the way...


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## FlambeauHO (Nov 24, 2011)

I like to put a 90 degree plug there, others may do it differently but even with the factory looms it's a lot of strain to keep it off the steering linkage. And yes HO and Ram Air manifolds are the same and freer flowing than others.


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