# Disc Brake Conversion



## sixeightGTO (Jan 25, 2010)

Has anyone converted their front brakes over to disc? I have a 1968 and was considering changing the front drum to disc. My brake system is shot so I already have to get a new master cylinder brake booster etc. I was wondering if it was worth the trouble. The two apprehensions I have is that it was not an original option for the car but the motor is not number matching either. Also I have 14 inch Rally II's for the car. I hear you have to modify the calipers to make it work with 14 inch wheels. Looking for any input, ideas, or opinions. I have the car down to the frame and am trying to get things planned out for the next few steps of the project.


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## jetstang (Nov 5, 2008)

I bought the conversion Spindles, backing plates and bolts for $150 at Daytona, haven't installed them yet. But, it's stock 70 stuff which had 14" rally II's, so I'm positive it will work. You can get the conversion kit from Chevelle places also. The 70 had the prop valve on the framerail, which gets hit by headers, while the 72? has the prop valve on the master cylinder, which I got, that makes the conversion way easier. I'm not sure what year I bought, got it used, but the guy I got it from says the earlier units are conventional threads, while the later ones are metric.


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## Jeff's Classics (Feb 24, 2010)

I'm planning to start the conversion on my '68 this weekend, but I went with aftermarket (Baer Brakes) stuff, and I'm going to use 15" wheels. If you want to stay stock there are several places to get kits.
I'd definitely recommend doing the conversion in the interests of safety. It was an available factory option, so if you do a stock style conversion it shouldn't hurt the value, especially if you don't have the original engine anyway.
Jeff


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## 68greengoat (Sep 15, 2005)

Maybe this will help you decide. Front disc brakes "were" an option in '68..........


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## Rukee (Feb 8, 2007)

pfft! Brakes are over rated.


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## 66tempestGT (Nov 28, 2009)

ha! they only slow you down.


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## Rukee (Feb 8, 2007)

exactly!!


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## sixeightGTO (Jan 25, 2010)

I will say I never thought of the safety rationale. That in itself is enough of a selling point. I am going to go ahead and convert like 68greengoat pointed out it was an option so it is not like I am doing anything too far fetched. Has anyone purchased a kit and done it or has most tried by rounding up all the needed parts?


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## jetstang (Nov 5, 2008)

I bought the spindle kit, backing plates and bolts to replace the drum spindles, available on all the sites, no shipping if you get it at a swap meet. Then, get factory rotors, or slotted and drilled off ebay for $70, then stock calipers from the zone for $15 ea, or better ones from Napa, and brake lines to the calipers. Then, you need a dual resevoir master cylinder, proportioning valve and booster. You can just replace the master cylinder with a dual, and splice the lines in for now, then do the rest later. Control arms and ball joints are the same.
You can find the parts in a junk yard and then replace the worn/bad parts, just have to find a 70 or so Chevelle/Lemans/Skylark or Cutlass. I think the Monte Carlos and the like had the same setup. 
Any one have input for more cars with the same setup?


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## likethat (Oct 5, 2007)

OLDSmobility.com - The 1967 Oldsmobile Cutlass and 442 Resource - A-Body Interchangeability

This is a good link for A body stuff.

and this one
OLDSmobility.com - The 1967 Oldsmobile Cutlass and 442 Resource - Converting from Drum to Disc Brakes


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## 68greengoat (Sep 15, 2005)

Here's another link on the procedure... Tells you which cars are compatable if you want to do the "junkyard crawl".

The GOAT'S GaR-RRAGE! Technical Library


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## 68Resto-mod (Nov 10, 2009)

Sounds like you are watching your budget and re-sale value very closely. Jetstang has the right idea.
Since my 68 is a resto-mod and I plan to keep it for a long time (I am 56), I decided to do the entire chassis while it is apart. I ordered a complete front and rear 12” disk brake setup from CPP (Classic Performance Products) out of California for $1600 including shipping. It includes everything you would need except for brake lines that run from P-valve to front/rear brake. 12” disks are drilled and slotted, spindles are 2” drop, and booster, master calendar and P-valve are included. Also includes rear E-brake conversion cable, flex hoses, brackets and even the gaskets for the differential housing. 
This setup will not fit the stock 14” wheels. I am going with 17” five spoke on this car. CPP sells stock setups as well. To make the car even more fun to drive, I will replace the stock suspension with a complete setup from BMR Fabrication. This will set me back an additional $2K. Should handle like a corvette, (a 68 Corvette that is).


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