# GTO oil change



## jortegasr (Nov 4, 2005)

Does any body have a suggestion on what brand synthedic oil I sould run in my 05 goat? I was told to change the oil at 1500 and at 3000 miles. How often should I get it changed after that?


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## Guest (Nov 10, 2005)

I used to change my synthetic in my LS1 at 12,000 miles and ran Mobil1 or Castrol Syntec. I never used Pennzoil. I also ran my LS1 to 6800 ever weekend at the track.


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## jortegasr (Nov 4, 2005)

I just doing some daily driving to work and here and there on the weekends. I now normally you would change it every 3000 miles but doesn't synthetic last longer?


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## Guest (Nov 10, 2005)

yep, they even have oil formulated to last 15k miles.......


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## jortegasr (Nov 4, 2005)

I am using Castrol Syntec. When do you reccomend I change it. I am not much of a mechanic.


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## Guest (Nov 10, 2005)

Thats quite ok, there are plenty of us on here who are and are more than happy to help you.

I would recommend if you dont drive that much and the car spends some time sitting, by all means change it every 3 months or 3000 miles. BUT, if you drive it daily and put a lot of highway miles on it, you can very easily run up to 10,000 miles and have no problems.

Some users complain about their cars burning oil so keep an eye on that too!

any other questions, dont ever be afraid to ask.


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## jortegasr (Nov 4, 2005)

Thanks for the advise.


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## Guest (Nov 10, 2005)

sure thing, its what I am here for.


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## DAH GTO (Mar 5, 2005)

big_mike said:


> Thats quite ok, there are plenty of us on here who are and are more than happy to help you.
> 
> I would recommend if you dont drive that much and the car spends some time sitting, by all means change it every 3 months or 3000 miles. BUT, if you drive it daily and put a lot of highway miles on it, you can very easily run up to 10,000 miles and have no problems.
> 
> ...


I bought my GTO in July 2004 and currently only has 3800 miles on it. I changed the oil last fall with 1700 miles and recently with 3600 miles, I use Mobil 1 synthetic. I think changing the oil & filter only once a year is ok, do you agree? 

One more point, I do not drive it in foul weather, so it's not exposed the bitter cold temperatures, stays in the garage when the snow flies.


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## Guest (Nov 10, 2005)

the problem with doing it only once a year is condensation forms inside your oil pan and water and engines dont mix. Since yours sits most of the time I HIGHLY recommend changing it every 3-6 months to ensure no condensation forms and gets circulated.


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## DAH GTO (Mar 5, 2005)

big_mike said:


> the problem with doing it only once a year is condensation forms inside your oil pan and water and engines dont mix. Since yours sits most of the time I HIGHLY recommend changing it every 3-6 months to ensure no condensation forms and gets circulated.


I understand what you’re saying, but when I change the oil, there is absolutely no water in the drain pan. If there was, it would be sitting on top of the oil, wouldn't you agree?


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## Guest (Nov 10, 2005)

oil is lighter than water, no, it would be on the bottom and you wouldnt see it come out but over time, it would wreak havoc on the motor.


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## DAH GTO (Mar 5, 2005)

big_mike said:


> oil is lighter than water, no, it would be on the bottom and you wouldnt see it come out but over time, it would wreak havoc on the motor.


I thought oil was heavier than water???


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## Guest (Nov 10, 2005)

if it was, then it wouldnt sit on top of the ocean when there is an oil spill.


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## DAH GTO (Mar 5, 2005)

big_mike said:


> if it was, then it wouldnt sit on top of the ocean when there is an oil spill.


Good point.


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## Guest (Nov 10, 2005)

I wouldnt lie to ya!


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## cat1055man (Nov 6, 2005)

I plan on using Mobil 1. Changed mine at 1500 first time and will do future changes at least every 2500-3000. I think oil is cheap compared to engine wear. The oil becomes contaminated due to combustion blowby into the crankcase, that is why the oil gets black over time, I like to keep fresh oil in my car. Can't hurt and can only help preserve your investment. Costco sells Mobil 1 for $24 case of six quarts.


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## Guest (Nov 10, 2005)

I have always had good luck with the Mobil1, but when money is tight, I go with another brand.


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## johnebgoode (Oct 4, 2005)

I must be a head case all together........I change oil every 3K regardless of vehicle, oil type or useage.


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## fergyflyer (Apr 18, 2005)

Changing the oil every 3,000 miles is a default mode. You tend to err on the side of caution when you are in default mode. Time and type of usage is much more important than mileage. I have a friend that changes his oil twice a year, spring and fall. His car is a 73 Pontiac Grand Prix with 36,000 miles and it gets maybe 300 per year. The spring oil change will have 50 miles sometimes. 
Mike is exactly right with his comments on oil being fine up to 15,000 miles, or more depenfding on the type of driving. But one doing 40-100 miles a week that are all short trips needs a lot more frequent changes. The water from condensation that mixes with the oil forms sulphuric acid. That then makes its way to the bearings and you kill the engine quickly. The only way to get rid of the moisture is to raise the oil temperature over 212 degrees. That takes more time than it takes to raise your water temperature. Usually a half hour to 45 minutes depending on outside air temps.


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## johnebgoode (Oct 4, 2005)

fergyflyer said:


> Changing the oil every 3,000 miles is a default mode. You tend to err on the side of caution when you are in default mode. Time and type of usage is much more important than mileage. I have a friend that changes his oil twice a year, spring and fall. His car is a 73 Pontiac Grand Prix with 36,000 miles and it gets maybe 300 per year. The spring oil change will have 50 miles sometimes.
> Mike is exactly right with his comments on oil being fine up to 15,000 miles, or more depenfding on the type of driving. But one doing 40-100 miles a week that are all short trips needs a lot more frequent changes. The water from condensation that mixes with the oil forms sulphuric acid. That then makes its way to the bearings and you kill the engine quickly. The only way to get rid of the moisture is to raise the oil temperature over 212 degrees. That takes more time than it takes to raise your water temperature. Usually a half hour to 45 minutes depending on outside air temps.


You're absolutely right about the default mode. Mine is now 38 days old and has 785 miles on it....... :lol: If we were to keep it in for , lets say 10K, shouldn't we drop the filter evry 5K and add a qt.? Jus wonderin'


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## Subdriver (Dec 28, 2004)

jortegasr said:


> Does any body have a suggestion on what brand synthedic oil I sould run in my 05 goat? I was told to change the oil at 1500 and at 3000 miles. How often should I get it changed after that?


Though this test is a few years old now, you can see how your favorite oil stacks up:
Comparative Oil Test

Some other things to ponder about synthetics:

All synthetics are not equal. The API has not come out and defined what is "synthetic", but rather, classified oils into five major groups.

Group I base oils are the least refined of all of the groups. They are usually a mix of different hydrocarbon chains with little or no uniformity. While some automotive oils use these stocks, they are generally used in less demanding applications.

Group II base oils are common in mineral based motor oils. They have fair to good performance in the areas of volatility, oxidation stability, wear prevention and flash/fire points. They have only fair performance in areas such as pour point and cold crank viscosity. Group II base stocks are what the majority of engine oils are made from. 3000 mile oil changes are the norm.

Group III base oils are subjected to the highest level of refining of all the mineral oil stocks. Although not chemically engineered, they offer improved performance in a wide range of areas as well as good molecular uniformity and stability. By definition they are considered a synthesized material and can be used in the production of synthetic and semi-synthetic lubricants. Group III is used in the vast majority of full synthetics or synthetic blends. They are superior to group I and II oils but still have limitations. Some formulations are designed for extended oil changes. AMSOIL XL Motor Oils, Castrol Syntec and many others fall into this category. 

Group IV are polyalphaolefins (PAO) which are a chemically engineered synthesized basestocks. PAOs offer excellent stability, molecular uniformity and performance over a wide range of lubricating properties. AMSOIL SAE Synthetic Motor Oils and Mobil 1 use group IV basestocks. PAO is a much more expensive basestock than the highly refined petroleum oil basestock of Group III.

Group V base oils are also chemically engineered stocks that do not full into any of the categories previously mentioned. Typical examples of group V stocks are Esters, polyglycols and silicone. Redline uses an ester basestock.

In the 90s, Mobil filed suit against Castrol for falsely advertising Syntec oil as synthetic, when in fact it contained a Group III, highly hydroprocessed mineral (Dino) oil, instead of a chemically synthesized (group IV or V) basestock. Due to the amount that the mineral oil had been chemically changed, the judge decided in Castrol's favor. As a result, any oil containing this highly hydroprocessed mineral (Dino) oil (currently called Group III basestock by the American Petroleum Institute) can market themselves as a synthetic oil. Since the original synthetic basestock (polyalphaolefin or PAO) is much more expensive than the Group III basestock, most of the oil blenders switched to the Group III basestock, which significantly increased their profit margins.

I recommend these Group IV PAO based AMSOIL products for the GTO:
AMSOIL Series 2000 0w30
AMSOIL SAE Synthetic 5w30
and for those living in the south, this also meets the requirements of the GTO for temps over 0F:
AMSOIL SAE Synthetic 10w30

As for oil change intervals, I recommend following your oil life indicator as long as you are using a good synthetic. GM put a lot of research into this and it is a pretty good system. I follow the oil life monitor on my wife's Chevy Trailblazer and her oil change intervals normally come out to about six months and 8.5-9.5k miles. Also note that the owners manual requires an oil and filter change every year regardless of mileage. 

AMSOIL just came out with a new line of oil filters last week which is rated to one year or 25k miles of use. The GTO part number is EAO32.
AMSOIL Ea Oil Filter

More info can be found on these links. :cheers 
Request a Free AMSOIL Catalog
AMSOIL Ordering Information
AMSOIL Preferred Customer Program


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## BlueTiger (Jan 30, 2005)

jortegasr said:


> Does any body have a suggestion on what brand synthedic oil I sould run in my 05 goat? I was told to change the oil at 1500 and at 3000 miles. How often should I get it changed after that?


The best brands are Redline, Royal Purple, Amsoil, Mobil 1 and Castrol Syntec. Synthetic oil should last a minimum of 7,500 miles. I personally use Mobil 1 and change my oil every 4 months.


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## Guest (Nov 11, 2005)

WELL, seems I got educated by SubDriver's post! EXCELLENT info !!


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## BlueTiger (Jan 30, 2005)

After reading Subdriver's post, I am deleting Castrol off my list. I might have to give Amsoil a try.


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## Subdriver (Dec 28, 2004)

big_mike said:


> WELL, seems I got educated by SubDriver's post! EXCELLENT info !!


Thanks Mike! 

Blue, I dropped you a PM with info on the Preferred Customer program. :cheers


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## BlueTiger (Jan 30, 2005)

Subdriver said:


> Thanks Mike!
> 
> Blue, I dropped you a PM with info on the Preferred Customer program. :cheers


Got your PM and sent you one. I am interested in Amsoil and would like to purchase some. Thank you. :cheers


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## GGTTOO (Oct 6, 2005)

I am going to Amsoil...going to pick it up tomorrow. i am told though do not get the Nano filter for the GTO as they have not perfected it yet. This info is from two reps. 

7 qts and regular filter $41.00 and some change. With the regular filter they recommend changing oil every 6500 miles so the $41.00 is cheap.


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## 707GTOLS2 (Aug 31, 2005)

Changed mine for the first time at 1500 a couple of days ago went with the Mobile 1, anyone chop the oil filter in half after their first oil change? I chopped it in half and saw a whole lot of crap in there


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## Subdriver (Dec 28, 2004)

bluegto04 said:


> Got your PM and sent you one. I am interested in Amsoil and would like to purchase some. Thank you. :cheers


Thanks Blue! Got it and responded. :cheers


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## Guest (Nov 12, 2005)

707GTOLS2 said:


> Changed mine for the first time at 1500 a couple of days ago went with the Mobile 1, anyone chop the oil filter in half after their first oil change? I chopped it in half and saw a whole lot of crap in there


uhhh, what KIND of crap? Is it shiny? :willy:


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## Subdriver (Dec 28, 2004)

GGTTOO said:


> I am going to Amsoil...going to pick it up tomorrow. i am told though do not get the Nano filter for the GTO as they have not perfected it yet. This info is from two reps.


GGTTOO,
I would question your local reps as to what they base this on. AMSOIL recently held its fall regional sales meetings and this new line of filters was discussed at length - not sure if they went to the meeting in their area or not. I was not able to go either, but a friend of mine went and took detailed notes for me. 

Donaldson has been making filters using this technology for long haul trucking for over five years now so this technology is well proven. AMSOIL is already partnered with Donaldson for use of their filters for Heavy Duty applications:
About AMSOIL Inc
AMSOIL adds Donaldson Filters for Heavy Duty Applications

But no one was making this type of filters for autmotive applications. While AMSOIL is a little close hold, it appears that AMSOIL has licensed this technology from Donaldson and is buying the media for the AMSOIL Ea Oil Filter from the same maker that Donaldson uses.

As a note for you, the SDF line has been discontinued, so once stock is depleted you won't be able to get these filters anymore. :cheers 

P.S. That is a very good price your local reps are giving you, essentially wholesale prices.


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## Guest (Nov 12, 2005)

the way it is starting to look............Id think ole subdriver WORKS for Amsoil...


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## Subdriver (Dec 28, 2004)

big_mike said:


> the way it is starting to look............Id think ole subdriver WORKS for Amsoil...


Hopefully it is obvious that I am an Independent AMSOIL Dealer, so feel free to take everything I say with a grain of salt. :lol: 

I do try to keep my info as unbiased as possible though, letting people make their own choice.

As an FYI of my background, I began racing my Z06 in 2003 and lost a motor that season, which really hurt my budget as I do live on a government salary. During the 03-04 offseason I spent months learning about what oil does, why one is better than another, what synthetic really is, etc. Eventually I decided to use AMSOIL in my Z06, as well as my F350 tow vehicle and my wife's Chevy Trailblazer. Later in 2004 I became a dealer of AMSOIL through my raceteam, C66 Racing LLC, as a way to help offset my racing expenses. :cheers


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## Guest (Nov 12, 2005)

obvious? nooooooooo. lol

Did you lose the motor in the Z due to racing stress, or was it an oil related problem? I popped the motor in my 98 camaro due to a faulty oil pump. Since the car had 37k on it, they told me there was -0- way it would be done under warranty. And that was after calling GM directly!


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## Subdriver (Dec 28, 2004)

big_mike said:


> Did you lose the motor in the Z due to racing stress, or was it an oil related problem?


Though it was hard to pin exactly why it failed, I think it was primarily a manufacturing defect, however a better oil might have held off the failure for another couple of races when I had planned to do a rebuild of the motor prior to the 2003 SCCA Runoffs. The bearings seized on pistons 3 and 4, with #3 being the worst. That rod pulled the pin out of the piston and then rotated through the side of the block. #4 didn't quite make it that far when the motor stopped. My brother-in-law, who is an engine builder, put the pieces back together as best he could and found the gap in the rod bearings for those two bearings was less than the service manual required, so the oil was fighting an uphill battle. 

As a result I spent some time learning about some of the properties of oil that might have helped prevent this failure, such as anti-wear additives, shear strength, etc. We also took apart the next motor before we raced it to ensure its bearing clearances were okay, and they were. Then I broke a timing chain in that motor... 
That prompted me to learn more about timing chains. :lol:


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## Guest (Nov 13, 2005)

Ya ever feel like somebody is trying to tell ya something? lol


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## GGTTOO (Oct 6, 2005)

Subdriver I got the response also from Amsoil direct. If you look at the website they do not even list a nano filter for our car yet. I know they ahve one but they are appparantly not happy with its performance on oru engines and are developing a new design. Talk to your corporate rep and let us know or post their reply. I too would like the Nano filter at next oil change if it is avaialble.


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## roadracer (Oct 31, 2004)

I've had great success with Red Line and I change the oil twice a year. I'd also recommend a magnetic drain plug if you don't already have one. Less than 5 bucks.


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## Subdriver (Dec 28, 2004)

GGTTOO said:


> Subdriver I got the response also from Amsoil direct. If you look at the website they do not even list a nano filter for our car yet. I know they ahve one but they are appparantly not happy with its performance on oru engines and are developing a new design. Talk to your corporate rep and let us know or post their reply. I too would like the Nano filter at next oil change if it is avaialble.


That doesn't sound right to me, but I did put in a request for technical support to AMSOIL and will let you know what they say.

AMSOIL hasn't listed any of the EA Oil filters on the AMSOIL Online Product Application Guide yet. The AMSOIL Ea Air Filter came out in October and AMSOIL hasn't updated most of the applications for this yet either. But, this week they did come out with an AMSOIL Ea Oil Filter Cross Reference Guide which does show that the SDF32 does cross to the EAO32 for GM cars and trucks with the LSX family of motors for 96-05 models. :cheers


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## Subdriver (Dec 28, 2004)

big_mike said:


> Ya ever feel like somebody is trying to tell ya something? lol


Ya, sometimes it does feel that way, especially given how limited my budget is. I ran my 04 season on a $25k budget which is significantly less than most of my competitors.

But, I have pressed through the problems, supported by a lot of good people, with positive results. After the timing chain failure, my brother-in-law called from Norfolk and said to bring the car to him and he'd fix it (I lived in Memphis at the time). Turned out we were very lucky and the "only" damage was to six valves and the timing chain. The pistons and the rest of the motor were fine (see pics below). He rebuilt the motor and I ran the rest of the 04 season on it, winning my divisional championship. 

I had an even more painful experience at the 2004 SCCA National Championship Runoffs, but again the goodwill of some wonderful people turned it into a memory I look back on with nothing but pride at our joint accomplishment. Before the Runoffs, my brother-in-law again offered to rebuild and blueprint the motor so I would have the best possible motor for the Runoffs. In doing so, he followed the service manual procedure to take off and replace the harmonic balancer exactly. Unfortunately, something we learned in hindsight was that the press on fit of the balancer of the LS6 doesn't work well after it has been removed and replaced. On my second lap of practice on Monday, at over 5000 rpms, the balancer came off and bounced off the steering rack and subassembly, damaging the crank - though we wouldn't know that until Wednesday. Tuesday we found a new balancer, bolt, and seal and put it back together. It lasted exactly one lap on Wednesday's qualifying before the motor grenaded. 
Sitting there dejected in my pits after my car was towed back, the following series of events occurred:
- One competitor came by and offered me the use of his backup car for the rest of the week
- Another competitor came by and offered to buy a new motor and loan it to me until I could pay him back (~$5400 for a crate LS6) - no interest, no deadline
- Another team offered to sell him the only spare motor at the track, and likely within hundred of miles, at cost
- Another team offered us the use of their local raceshop and equipment to change out the motor (basically handed us the keys and told us to lock up when we came back)
- The race steward agreed to let me start at the back of the field without qualifying
To make a long story short, my brother-in-law, Dad and I changed out the motor on Wednesday night and Thursday (17 hours) and had the car ready for Friday morning's warmup. I started last (31st) in the race Friday afternoon and finished 16th. 
With the same motor in the car, I was able to race in four races this year, winning three of them before I had to start a 12 month training pipeline (which I'm still in the middle of). :cheers


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## Guest (Nov 13, 2005)

thats some serious carnage!

And although your experience has been an expensive, tedious, and extensive journey, its proof that in the world of racing, your never alone! Even if you do exceed your budget.

Like I am trying to teach everyone I run across who wants to get involved in the sport, its not how fast you go, its not who you beat, its how much fun you have and how much you share with your fellow racers. A little gratuity goes a LONG way !!!

And thats the WHOLE reason I am on here, to share my knowledge with others and help in every possible way I can. Sometimes I am wrong, but thats ok, because even the teacher is a student...


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## Subdriver (Dec 28, 2004)

big_mike said:


> Like I am trying to teach everyone I run across who wants to get involved in the sport, its not how fast you go, its not who you beat, its how much fun you have and how much you share with your fellow racers. A little gratuity goes a LONG way !!!


Amen. :cheers


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## Subdriver (Dec 28, 2004)

GGTTOO said:


> Subdriver I got the response also from Amsoil direct. If you look at the website they do not even list a nano filter for our car yet. I know they ahve one but they are appparantly not happy with its performance on oru engines and are developing a new design. Talk to your corporate rep and let us know or post their reply. I too would like the Nano filter at next oil change if it is avaialble.


GGTTOO,
I asked the AMSOIL techline why the new EAO32 doesn't show up on the AMSOIL Online Product Application Guide for the 2005 GTO and they confirmed that was an omission. The techline agreed that the EAO32 is the correct filter for the LS1, LS2 and LS6 motors. 

If you take a look at the 2005 Corvette and the 2005 SSR on the online application guide, both of which have the same 6.0L LS2 motor, you will see that they do list the SDF32 there and the EAO32 is the new replacement for the SDF32: SDF to EAO Cross Reference

Here is their reply in part:
"In response to your inquiry, Hastings is showing their equivalent of the SDF32/EaO32 as fitting the 2006 Corvette with the 6.0 l engine, therefore the 2005 listing may have been misleading or overlooked."

Hope that helps. :cheers


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## ModBoss2 (Nov 13, 2005)

I just got some of the extended life Mobil 1. Is that what I should be using or should I have just ordered the regular Mobil 1?

And a question about the AC Delco UltraGuards...are they in short supply? I hear that the entire line has been discontinued, all except the one P/N for our cars.


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## Steve A (Oct 28, 2005)

Shell Rotella T - full synth - 5W/40.

Best prices @ Sam's or Wal-Mart.

My theory is to change first time as soon as you can after picking up the car and getting it fully warm. This gets all the debris from the engine build out of it. Then about every 1,500/2,000 miles.

I like the Stainless mesh oil filters and just clean it real well at each oil change. Used the same filter on 4 or 5 GM cars and it is still like new.


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## djray77 (Nov 22, 2005)

I just bought a 05 GTO 3 weeks ago, the dealer told me that my first oil is at 5000 miles?? is this ok??


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## EEZ GOAT (Jul 9, 2005)

no
change it b4 1000 miles to get rid of all the metal shavings out the engine left by the factory


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## EEZ GOAT (Jul 9, 2005)

your engine will be somewhat broken in by than. its better for performance


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## Guest (Nov 22, 2005)

and to get rid of that nasty break-in oil !!!


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## djray77 (Nov 22, 2005)

oh crap its just over 1000 miles, so I have to change it right away then?
I get free lifetime oil changes but not sure they will change it for me at 1k miles?? They will prolly just say it doesnt need it till 5K.


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## EEZ GOAT (Jul 9, 2005)

yup u may have to pay. got to wal-mart to change it for cheaper price (synth only) than take it to them at 5,000


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## Guest (Nov 22, 2005)

djray77 said:


> oh crap its just over 1000 miles, so I have to change it right away then?
> I get free lifetime oil changes but not sure they will change it for me at 1k miles?? They will prolly just say it doesnt need it till 5K.


dont matter if you need it or not, tell them to change it!


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## djray77 (Nov 22, 2005)

What kind of oil should I use? and filter?? I know synth but other then that any particular brand??


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## Guest (Nov 22, 2005)

I love Castrol Syntec and Mobil1 but its all personal preference. If you have the money, get Royal Purple or Redline.


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## Reno'sGoat (Dec 10, 2004)

I changed mine first at 1,700 miles with mobil 1 and now I'm at 4,700 miles. I just checked it this morning and it was down just half a quart, not bad for 3,000 mi. from what I've heard from others.

I may stay with mobil 1 or switch to vavoline full syn.


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## Subdriver (Dec 28, 2004)

ModBoss2 said:


> I just got some of the extended life Mobil 1. Is that what I should be using or should I have just ordered the regular Mobil 1?


The Extended Life version is arguably the better oil, but for some reason Mobil doesn't list it to meet GM Standard 4718M, the synthetic standard for the Vette and I assume the GTO.

But, the Extended Life Mobil 1 stacks up very well nonetheless. AMSOIL just updated their comparative motor oil test and included this new version of Mobil 1.
Comparative Motor Oil Test
:cheers


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## Steve A (Oct 28, 2005)

Shell Rotella T - full synth - 5W-40 is very good. It is a diesel oil and has more detergents and other additives than some of the car oils.


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## ModBoss2 (Nov 13, 2005)

Subdriver said:


> The Extended Life version is arguably the better oil, but for some reason Mobil doesn't list it to meet GM Standard 4718M, the synthetic standard for the Vette and I assume the GTO.
> 
> But, the Extended Life Mobil 1 stacks up very well nonetheless. AMSOIL just updated their comparative motor oil test and included this new version of Mobil 1.
> Comparative Motor Oil Test
> :cheers


Mobil 1 XL scored pretty well 

I'd probably go with AMSOIL, but I can't, because of the rivalry 

My brother puts it in his Mustang.


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## slowride (Sep 2, 2005)

jortegasr said:


> but doesn't synthetic last longer?


No.
It gets dirty just as fast as any other oil, and the additive packages get used up just as quickly, too. The advantage of the synthetic is it's resistance to heat, i.e. it will still lubricate at temperatures that will break down conventional oils.

slo


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## slowride (Sep 2, 2005)

Subdriver said:


> Comparative Motor Oil Test
> :cheers


This is advertising. AMZOIL could pick and choose the oils it used in the test...do you think it would list any oil that beat their own??
Where is the Redline? The Royal Purple? The Valvoline Syntec? The GM 4718M Mobil 1? Caveat emptor.

slo


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