# Stripping Inside Floor Pans?????



## Josh.AZ.GTO (Jul 11, 2009)

I am cleaning up the floor pans inside my car. A few areas (corners of backseasts near wheel well) of rust. I have started sanding by hand the back seat floor pan in attempts to treat semi rusted areas before I paint the floor pan. This is a restoration project I'm taking on which is on frame (at this time). I tried a small section with Auto Stripper to see if I could remove the paint any faster.

Currently I am sanding by hand which is labor intensive (plus kicking up the old and original paint (lead). I ordered a few products from Eastwood. PRE, Rust Disolve Gel, Rust Converter, and Rust Encapsulator. I don't have major rust problems, just light to light/medium pitting on rear floor pan. Not enough to warrant a new pan welded in place. 

From some of you..who have done restorations to floor pans, without dismantling the car, what viable options/methods have worked the best, fastest, and came out with best results. I'd love to hear.:cheers


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## y2kjammer (Dec 18, 2009)

This may not be the end all be all, but I've used a good stiff cup brush on an angle grinder. It scrubs up loose rust pretty well. Once you get it as clean as you can, use the rust converter/incapsulator to seal and stop further rust. With my floors I'll top it off with some POR15 to seal it. Then prime and paint - or just lay sound deadener and carpet. I'll be interested in other solutions, too. Always looking for a better way.

PS Not sure what year your car is, but the paint may be laquer. I don't think it has a lead base. Someone correct me if wrong.


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## crustysack (Oct 5, 2008)

No i dont think thats lead paint at all- try Aircraft Remover available at autozone or napa,this is the best paint stripper I have ever used. It is a harsh chemical (methylene chloride) so follow safety-(respirator, gloves ,eye protection) will not harm metal but DESTROYES paint


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## 66tempestGT (Nov 28, 2009)

i dont see any need in removing the old paint at all. i would (and have) scrub the whole thing down good with a scotchbrite pad then clean it real well and give it a coat of por15.


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## geeteeohguy (Feb 2, 2008)

Leave as much paint on as you can. If it's there after 40 years, it'll stay there and do its job. for rust in the corners, try a wire wheel or abrasive sponge type pad in a drill or die grinder. Then use the Eastwood stuff. Good luck.


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## Josh.AZ.GTO (Jul 11, 2009)

(y2kjammer - my car is a 1970 455HO.)

Thank you guys for responding. I am waiting for some product from Eastwood to come in. After reading some of your responses I am going to just spot sand the areas that need attention, convert and encanpsulate and leave the remaining paint on the floors. Probably will just clean up the old paint with a good scrub, then prime the whole floor, and POR 15 over that. 


Once I get a little farther in the job, I'll try to take some pictures and post the progress. 

Once again thanks for the advice, I appreciate all of it.


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## 66tempestGT (Nov 28, 2009)

Josh.AZ.GTO said:


> (y2kjammer - my car is a 1970 455HO.)
> 
> Thank you guys for responding. I am waiting for some product from Eastwood to come in. After reading some of your responses I am going to just spot sand the areas that need attention, convert and encanpsulate and leave the remaining paint on the floors. Probably will just clean up the old paint with a good scrub, then prime the whole floor, and POR 15 over that.
> 
> ...


the point of the por15 is to directly contact the rust. if you use the converter and encapsulater then prime, there is no need for por15 after that.


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## y2kjammer (Dec 18, 2009)

Good point Shane - and saves a few $$.
Mark


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## Eastwood Company (Apr 7, 2010)

Sounds like everyone covered your questions already! Post up some pics as you dig into treating your floorpans!

-Matt/EW


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## jetstang (Nov 5, 2008)

Shane is right, no reason to prime, then por 15, it is the one step best ever stuff and the primer might not let it adhere to the bare metal. No reason to top coat it if it isn't exposed to uv rays.


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## Thumpin455 (Feb 17, 2010)

Also POR15 and Rust Encapsulator do not like each other, if one is down and you put the other over it, it will lift. I have both products and so far both of them work. The RE is easier to work with as it wont stick the can shut forever if you get it in the seal groove. It is also easier to thin and spray if you want to apply it like that. POR simply will not come off unless you use a grinder or lots and lots of sandpaper. That stuff is tough. It also has a tendency to stick to your hands for a month or more if you get a hole in your gloves.

Epoxy primer will cover both of them just fine, and act as a sealer for a top coat so you can put down a different color if you wish.

Dont polish the area you are going to treat, both products need something to adhere to, sandblasting is a good way to go, but it has drawbacks. Paint stripper probably wont affect the rust much, it didnt when I used it on my 71 Formula. If you have pits and you use a paint stripper, you will still have some left in the pits and it will tear up the paint you put down above it. A wire brush on a grinder used too heavily will polish metal, just knock the loose stuff off and lay down the POR or RE. If you get it too smooth it will flake off surprisingly easily.

I have always had to replace metal in floors, but I still have to patch or stop the rust in the pieces I cant get replacements for. Both seem to work pretty well, they both have advantages and disadvantages for different things. Both are spendy but a pint of POR covered the entire bottom of the 65 GTO I am doing. I still have most of a gallon of RE too, and I have used it on two cars now. It just depends on which one works better for you. 

If there are pinholes, replace the section that is rusted, it will never be good again no matter what you do, and it is only asking for another rust spot to develop if you dont.


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## vikeman (Jul 14, 2010)

Hello, New to the forum. Just starting my project. It sounds like this product POR 15 is what you recommend?
I am not doing a frame off. I would like to get rid of the surface rust on the underside of the car. I have pulled the gas tank and plan on changing shocks and fuel/ brake lines if needed? So... Would I use POR 15 on all parts underneath then just prime and paint? I have too patch a hole in the rear floor pan and fix a few pin holes in the trunk. 
I found a advertiser on this website "One Step Rust Killer" Which sounds impressive. I thought about using this product but the POR 15 sounds good also. What do you guys think?
Thanks for your time and good luck Josh on your project.
Vikeman


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