# Need Some Detailing Advice



## Falco21 (May 11, 2010)

Monday I get my new tires put on and I wanted to completely detail the goat. I have an 05 PBM, and there are quite a bit of squirl marks and spider scratches. Just minor. I borrowed my grandfathers orbital buffer and was gonna try and tackle this on Monday. Right now I do not have access to a clay bar, I just realized mine is gone and I need to order a new one. I do have the ICE Liquid Clay, which works extremely well in removing containments, of course not as well as a clay bar itself though. 

1. Wash car with dish detergent to remove old wax and to start from new.
2. Apply Liquid Clay.
3. Wash vehicle again.
4. Apply rubbing compound for bigger scratches (Not to sure the pad I should use here. Any suggestions?)
5. Apply polishing compound for minor scratches
6. Spray down with detailing spray.
7. Apply 2-3 coats of wax (Again, not sure if I should by hand or with the buffer, and what pad to use?)
8. Spray down with detailing spray for final shine.


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## Falco21 (May 11, 2010)

Does anybody have any recommendations for the pad to use when polishing? This is gonna be the first time doing this, and there are so many pads I am not sure where to start? I searched through autopia and the other detailing forum and everyone recommends the yellow pad, the only problem being the yellow pad has to be ordered online. Does anyone know the equivalent pad to the yellow?


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## LS2 MN6 (Jul 14, 2010)

I use Zaino, which has a multi coat process. But regardless of the system you use I'd recommend you avoid the rubbing compound or other abrasives except where absolutely necessary. I'd wash with dawn, then regular car wash soap (but not dry it), then clay. The soap on the car gives you a good lubricant for the clay bar (easier than a spray bottle IMHO). After that was again, then layer on your choice of polish\wax. I use cotton applicators and cotton towels. I typically buy them at LA Zaino (not affiliated with the actual Zaino they are a distributor).


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## Falco21 (May 11, 2010)

Well the reason I was gonna do the rubbing compound was because I have a lot of swirl marks and fine scratches. My car is PBM so they tend to show a lot. I have 3M Rubbing Compound which is for fine scratches, water spots, and swirl marks. It says it is clear coat safe. 

What would you recommend then for the swirl marks and such? I've heard mixed opinions on the rubbing compound that's why I'm asking.


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## AlaGreyGoat (Jul 6, 2006)

I would use a clay bar. It should get the swirl marks out.

Larry


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## LS2 MN6 (Jul 14, 2010)

Clay should take car of most of it. After that you'd want to try a MILD abrasive, something like Zaino Z-PC (I'm sure others make a similar product). But I'd only use a rubbing compound on a DEEP scratch, and only to feather the edges.

People get slap happy with abrasives, and if used too much they actually make paint look worse. I tried to use some on my Jeep a few years back and all it did was mess it up more. But that car was black so it showed EVERYTHING.


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## Falco21 (May 11, 2010)

Yea thats my fear. Mine is PBM. I guess what I could do is try the compound on a small area and see what it does. That's the downside of black cars though, everything is seen. And I mean everything. But when their clean, their like glass!!


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## BRZN (Jan 31, 2011)

Falco21 said:


> 1. Wash car with dish detergent to remove old wax and to start from new.
> 2. Apply Liquid Clay.
> 3. Wash vehicle again.
> 4. Apply rubbing compound for bigger scratches (Not to sure the pad I should use here. Any suggestions?)
> ...


Probably better to ask these questions on a detailing forum.
But, here goes:
2. Liquid clay is a paint cleaner, really not a clay. An actual clay bar used with a detaing spray as it's lubricant will do a much better job. Clay does not remove swirls, but contaminants stuck on/in the clear.
3. For me, no need to wash the car a second time if you're going to move to polishing right away. You use detail spray to prime the polishing pads, so some left on the paint from the clay process won't hurt anything. You can't polish very well with excess water dripping out of areas, so again I'll avoid the second wash to minimize any drips.
4. Rubbing compound? Unless you're experienced at paint correction I'd say NO! As stated above you can cause more problem than you already had. It may say it's clear coat safe, but you'll take the clear off very quickly: then it's time for a re-paint.
6. I'll spray down with waterless wash after polish, not detail spray.
7. Two coats of wax would be fine, too many and you'll start to haze it up. Polishing the paint provides the shine, wax protects it. I perfer to apply wax by hand. You could use the orbital set at a slow speed with a grey, blue, red or gold "jewel" pad that has no cutting ability.


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## Poncho Dan (Jun 30, 2009)

I've had good success with plain old Turtle Wax polish (the cream) and a terry cloth towel. I don't know that I'd attack it with a power buffer first time around without practicing on a lesser car. I've seen buff jobs where you can see every stroke up and down the car in the clearcoat, looks awful. My wife's saturn had this problem, and I ended up polishing it all out by hand. It took forever, but I managed.

If you've got bad swirl marks, I'd use Nu Finish. That stuff is pretty awesome.


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## Falco21 (May 11, 2010)

Yea after thinking about it for a while I'm gonna just do it by hand. May take longer, but a lot more safe. Also I think I am gonna stay away from the rubbing compound. Too many horror stores I have been reading.


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## Mike_V (Mar 10, 2006)

I used a high-speed buffer for 20+ years, but I now love my porter cable. If you use a mild polish you cannot mess it up. It takes longer, but there's no panic at every edge or bodyline.

If you're serious about making it look amazing, buy the porter cable and one of the 3M swirl removers/polishes. 

I wash, clay, then polish. Polish each section until the 3M stuff turns to a fine dust. The modern polishes start more abrasive and become finer as they're worked. Use distilled water to wipe the dust away. If you use a detail spray it will keep the wax from really sticking well.

I put the wax on using the porter cable but take the first coat off by hand. I'll let it sit for half a day then blow any dust off with a leaf blower. I'll then put on a second coat and buff it off for a super shine. I feel if you buff off the first coat of wax you're probably removing most of the protection. 

Once you have the paint looking perfect, you have to really focus on preventing swirls.


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## BRZN (Jan 31, 2011)

Liquid Clay
Rubbing Compound
Cotton Applicators
Cotton Towels
Clay Bar to Remove Swirls
Turtle Wax Polish
Terry Cloth Towels


:willy:

This thread is so full of fail :seeya:


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## Falco21 (May 11, 2010)

Well I wasn't able to get the clay by itself so I settled for the liquid clay. I first washed it with dawn to remove everything. Used the liquid clay. Washed again with Meguiars Car Wash soap. Applied the rubbing compound on a small area, seemed to be fine on the paint. I also searched around autopia and asked and they said it is ok since it is clear coat safe. Applied it to the car, then polished the car. And finally applied the final 2 coats of wax. O and the polish was good old turtle wax! Worked awesome! Thanks Poncho!

Here are some pics. Full of fail, I think not


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## GTO JUDGE (May 14, 2005)

BRZN is the official detailing guru for SVGTO. He also has attended bokoo seminars on the subject of detailing. His knowledge on detailing and how to get the most from your efforts has been invaluable to others. He keeps up to date on proper techniques and chemicals on the market much like an auto mechanic attends school for updates. If anyone has ever seen his car you'd know how serious he is about detailing.


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## LS2 MN6 (Jul 14, 2010)

BRZN said:


> Liquid Clay
> Rubbing Compound
> Cotton Applicators
> Cotton Towels
> ...


What's wrong with Cotton?


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## Poncho Dan (Jun 30, 2009)

GTO JUDGE said:


> If anyone has ever seen his car you'd know how serious he is about detailing.


I can fool people into thinking a car has never been smoked in. :cool Proof positive: I've turned a $500 car into a $1500 car with some elbow grease.


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## AlaGreyGoat (Jul 6, 2006)

BRZN said:


> Liquid Clay
> Rubbing Compound
> Cotton Applicators
> Cotton Towels
> ...


I used a clay bar on my CGM 05 and it DID remove the fine swirl marks left from hand washing.
Also used old cotton diapers for years. I know the new microfiber materials are better, but there is nothing wrong with cotton.

Larry


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## Mike_V (Mar 10, 2006)

AlaGreyGoat said:


> I used a clay bar on my CGM 05 and it DID remove the fine swirl marks left from hand washing.
> Also used old cotton diapers for years. I know the new microfiber materials are better, but there is nothing wrong with cotton.
> 
> Larry


Clay only removes swirls if they're in the wax. The clay takes the wax off and the swirls in the wax.


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## BRZN (Jan 31, 2011)

I've been detailing cars for just over 30 years. I got paid for it for the first several years, and since then just for fun on my and my friend/relatives vehicles. Detailing has move "leaps and bounds" since I started. I prefaced my first post with the fact that the question should probably be asked on a detailing forum for your best answer, not on a car forum. You end up getting answers from folks who have tried a product or technique and think it's the bomb. Try 20-30 products and techniques then you can say what may work best.

To the OP, it's your car, and if you've gotten it looking the way you like and are happy with the results: good for you, seriously I'm glad for you.

What's wrong with cotton, or diapers? I'd used cotton for decades, the microfiber products are far superior at pulling contaminents away from the surface of the towel and wicking them in towards the interior making anything you may have picked up much less likely to come in contact with the cars finish.
Diapers often have a poyester thread around the outside edge that will scratch your work. Locate this thread and pull a bit out and hit it with an open flame to watch it melt, not burn. Cheaper microfiber towels will have this same polyester thread around the exterior.

Clay can not remove swirls! Swirls are scratches in your clear or paint running in all directions. When the sun or a light hits these the right way you see a circular design: called swirls. The only way to get these out is to polish, as sted above clay only removes contaminents.

Most, not all: but most, over the counter Auto parts or Auto department major brand name waxes are loaded with fillers. Often times these fillers will fill in minor scratches and swirls leaving a great looking vehicle at the start but will quickly wash off letting all of what you thought you'd corrected show back up.


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## GTO JUDGE (May 14, 2005)

Poncho Dan said:


> I can fool people into thinking a car has never been smoked in. :cool Proof positive: I've turned a $500 car into a $1500 car with some elbow grease.


Doesn't your elbow get soar from applying grease to it then massaging it into the paint? LOLOL :rofl::rofl::rofl:  

I'd be afraid of burn marks in the interior to smoke in a car.

I've seen BRZN at work.... Elbow grease to him is therapy. While some would choose to swing in a hammock in the shade on a nice day, BRZN would rather be porter cabling in a hot garage. :willy:


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## GTO JUDGE (May 14, 2005)

Cotton is the enemy.. Under Armor says so.


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## Leahburk714 (Apr 22, 2010)

I also have the PBM very hard to keep clean i just bought the new turtle wax black detailer and after washing the car and drying them i put a coat of wax and spray detailer works really good and keeps a nice shine for a few days


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## Poncho Dan (Jun 30, 2009)

GTO JUDGE said:


> Doesn't your elbow get soar from applying grease to it then massaging it into the paint? LOLOL :rofl::rofl::rofl:
> 
> I'd be afraid of burn marks in the interior to smoke in a car.
> 
> I've seen BRZN at work.... Elbow grease to him is therapy. While some would choose to swing in a hammock in the shade on a nice day, BRZN would rather be porter cabling in a hot garage. :willy:


Yeah burn marks suck, I got one in the seat of my Grand Am when a cherry fell off between my legs.:willy: What's worse is that the ashes turn to a fine dust and get everywhere when you roll down the windows.

I really gotta quit one of these days. Tired of the mess and the expense. But that's why they call it an addiction...


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