# Manual Transmission Advice on Upgrades



## JeffM (Jan 27, 2014)

I have a 06, 54k miles with a 6sp manual that puts down 430 hp at the wheels. The transmission has been serviced regularly and I have a B&M short shifter. 

Shift from 1st to 2nd over 5500 rpms requires a lot of pulling to get into 2nd. There is no grinding. 2nd to 3rd is the same and requires some side to side action. If I come to a stop without downshifting and attempt to go into 1st, it will grind. If I drive moderately it shifts fine.

I am going to take the car in and have the transmission pulled, disassembled, and repaired/rebuilt. I want to upgrade it during the process. I am looking at Bronze Fork Pads, Steel three to four shift fork, and Billet steel keyways.

I am looking for suggestions on anything else I should upgrade or a speed shop within a few hours drive of Jacksonville, FL that specializes in this sort of thing. I really don’t want to pull the transmission and ship it.

Thanks


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## JeffM (Jan 27, 2014)

Well............, since no one has ever upgraded their transmission, I'll follow up with a post later on with what I decide to do and I'll include some technical info that may be of some benefit.


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## teds06goat (Jan 23, 2014)

When you say its service regularly what do you mean actually? And how often (miles) do you change out the clutch fluid. And have you changed the clutch yet?

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## JeffM (Jan 27, 2014)

I've had the car since November. I have had the trans and rear drained and filled. Then in Feb I had the output seal replaced along with the rubber boot over the shifter and the shifter re-sealed as it was leaking. So 2 fluid changes in the last 5 months. The clutch was upgraded shortly before I bought it so I would assume the fluid is fresh.


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## teds06goat (Jan 23, 2014)

I found that if you are gonna drive your car hard then you need to change out the clutch fluid and transmission fluid out every 8 to 10 thousand miles or so. And you want to make sure the shop didn't over fill your transmission. You'll know by the air vent on top of the transmission will be pink instead of white. 

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## teds06goat (Jan 23, 2014)

teds06goat said:


> I found that if you are gonna drive your car hard then you need to change out the clutch fluid and transmission fluid out every 8 to 10 thousand miles or so. With the hard driving you heat up the fluid faster and shortened its life more then half. You also want to make sure the shop didn't over fill your transmission. You'll know by the air vent on top of the transmission will be pink instead of white. If its over filled. I had a similar problem not going into gear after a day of hard driving.
> 
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## JeffM (Jan 27, 2014)

Repairs are complete. 1st gear replaced, main shaft, bearing kit, blocker rings, Bronze shift pads, billet keys, steel 3 to 4th shift fork, bronze isolator, seals, and a new ceterforce clutch (since it was out) rounds it out. All shifting/transmission problems are gone. $1400 total for transmission shop. $300 for the upgraded parts that I purchased and $450 for the clutch parts. Ouch.


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## pocketmaster (Feb 26, 2010)

JeffM said:


> Repairs are complete. 1st gear replaced, main shaft, bearing kit, blocker rings, Bronze shift pads, billet keys, steel 3 to 4th shift fork, bronze isolator, seals, and a new ceterforce clutch (since it was out) rounds it out. All shifting/transmission problems are gone. $1400 total for transmission shop. $300 for the upgraded parts that I purchased and $450 for the clutch parts. Ouch.


For the longest time I was having issues similar to yours and was thinking the tranny was going out too......THEN I started changing my clutch fluid when ever it started getting dirty. Problems went away. And this was after I had a brand new Monster Stage 3 installed. I check the fluid once or twice a week just to see how dirty it is and if its getting dirty I simply use the Ranger Method and cycle the fluid. Does wonders!!


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## jpalamar (Jul 22, 2008)

Is it an OEM clutch? I doubt its anything internal.


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## JeffM (Jan 27, 2014)

I saw the parts during dis-assembly. A retaining ring/race that was broken allowed a bearing to ride against and damage 1st gear. The needle bearing disintegrated and allowed 1st gear to damage the main shaft. The rest of the parts were pretty much preventive against future problems and upgrades.


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## Ibanez (May 16, 2014)

Tick Performance Adjustable Clutch Master Cylinder Kit for 2004-2006 Pontiac GTO - Tick Performance

Don't have to remove the transmission for this one but it might help as an upgrade.


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