# Frame Treatment



## Fred007 (Jul 23, 2008)

For those doing a frame up, what is the finish of choice for the frame? My father is trying to talk me into powder coating it, but that seems a bit much. I recently had my first experience with POR-15 and think that might be the ticket. Would love to hear what other folks are doing here.

Also, is there any specific modifications people make to strenghten the frames for higher HP applications? The guys on V8TV talked about this in their restoration but were not specific about what they did.

Thanks, really appreciate all the help on this forum!


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## Rukee (Feb 8, 2007)

I had considered powder coating mine as well, but after talking to several guys at the shows who had done it, nearly all of them said not to for one reason or another. I did mine in a semi-gloss black paint.
Hey, I'm just up the interstate from you bout a half hour. :cheers


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## geeteeohguy (Feb 2, 2008)

I would just paint the frame. that's what the factory did. Strong frame? the convertible frames were fully boxed and are much stronger than the regular hardtop or coupe frame. They are also much heavier! The fully boxed A-body frame was also used on Buick Gran Sport hardtops in '65-'67. Buick was into quiet ride and quality back then: no rattles.


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## Showgoat67 (Feb 16, 2005)

Eastwood sells a kit that does the frame from start to finish for about 120.00


I like the kit works nice


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## 700Rocket (Mar 29, 2008)

POR 15 worked great for me but since I have seen other products like it for a little less money (like eastwood above). I had the frame sand blasted then sprayed the POR 15 and then painted it with Satin Black. I also painted my trailer frame with POR15 and it still looks like new and I use it all of the time.


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## johnnylightning03 (Nov 27, 2007)

i had mine glass media blasted, sprayed with por 15 then painted with eastwood extreme chassis satin black. i dont know if this is the preferred/accepted method, but i found por 15 by itself is too glossy and makes any pitting show as in the far right photo. por15 is also uv sensitive, but being under the car that wont be an issue. we also used filler to smooth out some of the rougher more visible areas such as the sides in pic 3. also i'm told glass bead blasting removes far less metal than media such as black beauty ( stamping numbers in rear untouched) and leaves a great finish. just be prepared to paint asap since the metal is so raw it begins to surface rust almost instantly (overnight indoors). good luck. im sure whatever you do it will look great.


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## Fred007 (Jul 23, 2008)

Anyone have pictures of a convertable frame? i.e. boxed? The guys on V8TV did that to their project car and I was trying to figure out what they meant. I think I get it now, the two main frame rails are solid on both sides for a convertable, vs open for coupe or hardtop. Right? They did this for increased rigitity for the higher HP engine they were working with and I thought it might be a good idea on my build as well. Thanks again for any input you have.


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## Fred007 (Jul 23, 2008)

Rukee said:


> I had considered powder coating mine as well, but after talking to several guys at the shows who had done it, nearly all of them said not to for one reason or another. I did mine in a semi-gloss black paint.
> Hey, I'm just up the interstate from you bout a half hour. :cheers


Know any good garage space around here? This car is currently in the Chicago suburbs which makes working on it a bit difficult. My garage is currently full and I need access to a lift for the frame off I will be doing so that is why the car is in Chicago.

Generally, what do folks do for garage space if they don't have it available at their house? I've been searching, not that hard yet, and have yet to find a good solution. Talked to one kind of dumpy place and the guy reacted very strongly (in a negative way) when I mentioned working on a car resotoration project. Just not having any luck.


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## Fred007 (Jul 23, 2008)

johnnylightning03 said:


> i had mine glass media blasted, sprayed with por 15 then painted with eastwood extreme chassis satin black. i dont know if this is the preferred/accepted method, but i found por 15 by itself is too glossy and makes any pitting show as in the far right photo. por15 is also uv sensitive, but being under the car that wont be an issue. we also used filler to smooth out some of the rougher more visible areas such as the sides in pic 3. also i'm told glass bead blasting removes far less metal than media such as black beauty ( stamping numbers in rear untouched) and leaves a great finish. just be prepared to paint asap since the metal is so raw it begins to surface rust almost instantly (overnight indoors). good luck. im sure whatever you do it will look great.


Thanks for the tips. I hear you on the need to paint quick. I did the same to the rear end in my Jeep and it showed slight surface rust overnight. I guess you just need to plan it with the blaster to get it done and painted very quickly. On my rear, I primed it with Rustolean Galvanzing primer as many jeepers had done that. Do you think that is necessary or worthwhile?


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## Rukee (Feb 8, 2007)

Fred007 said:


> Know any good garage space around here? This car is currently in the Chicago suburbs which makes working on it a bit difficult. My garage is currently full and I need access to a lift for the frame off I will be doing so that is why the car is in Chicago.
> 
> Generally, what do folks do for garage space if they don't have it available at their house? I've been searching, not that hard yet, and have yet to find a good solution. Talked to one kind of dumpy place and the guy reacted very strongly (in a negative way) when I mentioned working on a car resotoration project. Just not having any luck.


I'd want it alot closer to home!!
You could store it here, but I'm gunna wanna restore and charge you for it. 
You could rent a double or triple wide storage space at one of the many storage facilities. And you could block the body up and off the frame using a couple 4x4s and jack stands and do it without a lift.


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## johnnylightning03 (Nov 27, 2007)

Fred007 said:


> Thanks for the tips. I hear you on the need to paint quick. I did the same to the rear end in my Jeep and it showed slight surface rust overnight. I guess you just need to plan it with the blaster to get it done and painted very quickly. On my rear, I primed it with Rustolean Galvanzing primer as many jeepers had done that. Do you think that is necessary or worthwhile?


i had all my control arms, brake drums and backing plates and rear done at the same time as my frame. they all were all coated with por15 afterwards. i would say blasting and por15 or any self etching primer is definately a worthwhile idea. i'm happy with the results and feel things will be better preserved. por15 is also thicker so it seemed to fill in pitted areas better than primer and when the components were painted every thing looks great. but you can see just how glossy por15 is. a satin finish is definately much more eye appealing on these parts.


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