# Which Camber Adjuster



## firebird (Feb 6, 2011)

i am looking to get more negative camber on my car in the rear and was wondering if lovells will give me results i want, or is there something better. what's the best product? i heard that the camber adjuster works best on the inner than outter. what' the deal? any good links with good prices?

edit; would this do the job, http://www.kollarracingproducts.com/servlet/the-12/2004-dsh-2006-Pontiac-GTO-Rear/Detail
any input is appriciated.


----------



## GM4life (Mar 18, 2007)

I would stay away from those. I was told by the guy that did my suspension that those things slip and don't hold the setting long. He has ten sets that he can't sell. If you don't beleave me look up Haddad Motorsports he'll tell you he is pretty much one of the GTO suspension gurus and won't sugur coat it.


----------



## firebird (Feb 6, 2011)

yeah, i read some threads with complaints of them getting loose. but then, some people claim they had them on for years, no issues. i want to fit 295 in the rear, and i will need them for certain. and, i want to find reputable brand that will do the job.


----------



## GM4life (Mar 18, 2007)

I thought svede gave you advice already?

BTW: Pedders is the only brand he sales and he can't sale them and refuse to sale them.


----------



## firebird (Feb 6, 2011)

yeah accrding to ls1, pedders is a big joke when it comes to camber and and probbably that is why people won't buy them.


----------



## firebird (Feb 6, 2011)

looking at pedders and lovells, they look a bit different, and i dont quiet understand where the location for these is. they keep saying inner and outer....but where do they bolt on?can anyone post a pic of where these are installed.


----------



## BlackPearl (Sep 13, 2006)

Pedders eccentrics have always had a real bad problem. I would talk to Andy at Lovells, but I have not heard anything bad from them. I believe inner is camber, and outer is toe.


----------



## firebird (Feb 6, 2011)

according to andy, the lovell kit will do the job. i guess i'll have to wait to get them and see what's all the huss about. i wanted to see if anyone had them installed and the way they fit.


----------



## firebird (Feb 6, 2011)

yeah because the outter toe is adjustable on mine. i wonder if it's all the same with all factory GTOs or if someone placed this adjustable toe on it before i got the car.

with toe adjustment, it only brings the wheel to inside and outside, does not tilt it to inside or outside. 
so people is the toe adjustable on your gto?


----------



## LS2 MN6 (Jul 14, 2010)

From the GM Service Manual for the GTO:

"The rear suspension has 2 primary purposes:

• Isolate the driver from irregularities in the road surface. 

• Define the ride and handling characteristics of the vehicle. 

The rear suspension absorbs the impact of the tires travelling over irregular road surfaces and dissipates this energy throughout the suspension system. This process isolates the vehicle occupants from the road surface. The rate at which the suspension dissipates the energy and the amount of energy that is absorbed is how the suspension defines the vehicle's ride characteristics. Ride characteristics are designed into the suspension system and are not adjustable. The ride characteristics are mentioned in this description in order to aid in the understanding of the functions of the suspension system. The suspension system must allow for the vertical movement of the tire and wheel assembly as the vehicle travels over irregular road surfaces while maintaining the tire's relationship to the road.

The up and down motion of the tire and wheel assembly as the vehicle travels over bumps is absorbed predominantly by the coil spring. The shock absorber dampens the oscillations of the coil spring. A shock absorber is a basic hydraulic cylinder. The shock absorber is filled with oil and has a moveable shaft that connects to a piston inside the shock absorber. Valves inside the shock absorber offer resistance to oil flow and consequently inhibit rapid movement of the piston and shaft. This allows the shock absorber to utilize the dampening action to reduce the recoil of a spring alone.

The tire and wheel assembly is retained to the hub by wheel nuts and studs. The studs are pressed into the hub. The hub is retained to the wheel drive shaft flange by a nut. The hub rotates inside a sealed wheel bearing assembly. The wheel bearing is pressed into the lower control arm. The forward end of the lower control arm attaches to the rear suspension support with semi-rigid bushings.

The adjustment link assembly connects between the rear suspension support and the lower control arms. The inner adjustment link has a bushing. The outer adjustment link has a ball joint. The adjustment link assembly controls rear wheel camber and toe angles during suspension travel. *The adjustment link assembly also provides a means of adjusting the rear wheel toe*.

The stabilizer shaft connects between the left lower control arm and the right lower control arm through the stabilizer shaft links. Insulators and clamps retain the stabilizer shaft to the rear suspension support. The stabilizer shaft controls the amount of independent movement of the suspension when the vehicle turns. Limiting the independent movement defines the handling characteristics of the vehicle in turns."

Looks like the rear has Toe adjustment.


----------



## firebird (Feb 6, 2011)

thanks ls2...that was interesting read.

so if the toe is adjusted, it makes sense that the aligment on the vehicle will be off. correct?


----------



## firebird (Feb 6, 2011)

got the lovells from andy, dropped the frame and control arm. i'm working on the outter bushing, that sucker, the rubber piece is the hardest thing of all. god dang it's a PITA.


----------



## svede1212 (Nov 1, 2005)

Did you tell Andy you were using them to increase your negative camber? BTW I think it took me maybe 15-20 minutes to get the bushing out. Trim the "lip" off one end so it will push thru easier, drill some holes thru it to relieve pressure, put on your home made press, heat with propane torch.


----------



## firebird (Feb 6, 2011)

thanks Svede. yeah, told him that and he said to put it on the outter one due to lower stress on differential.

oh man, that drill idea is great. i just started last night to cut the edge of the bushing. hopefully i finish at least one side before noon. i start school on monday, and between work and school, it will take me forever, i was kind of hopping to be done with it by today but was working on brake master cylinder on other car the other day. falling behind.

so once i place the lovells adjustable in the housing, do i tighten the bolt with the locking nut(one with sharp threads inside that will stick to frame housing on the car, probably scraping the frame) as much as possible and adjust it to where i want it to be, and then put the regular nut in and tighten it?


----------



## svede1212 (Nov 1, 2005)

That's it.


----------



## firebird (Feb 6, 2011)

okay thanks svede.

just put lovell bushing in and bolt, but did not tighten it yet. gotta go to work. but i undid the brake line and took the iner bushing bolt out and had to drop the control arm down for easier removal. once down it took about 7-8 min, drilled the bushing 3-4 times and hammered it out by using socket extension. it was much easier as the arm was not extending down, i had to had it pressed down and even then i had not enough space to drill the bushing out, so now i will have to air out the brakes after all is done. but it is much faster than cutting that bushing with a knife.


----------



## firebird (Feb 6, 2011)

one more question svede, do i tighten that bolt(head of bolt) to go all the way in to touch the frame of the car, or does the bolt stick out and only goes in enough for the nut on the other side to catch it?


----------



## svede1212 (Nov 1, 2005)

firebird said:


> one more question svede, do i tighten that bolt(head of bolt) to go all the way in to touch the frame of the car, or does the bolt stick out and only goes in enough for the nut on the other side to catch it?


I'm not sure I understand the question but if you mean the bolt thru the outer bushing I believe that the head of the bolt goes on the outside and the nuts on the inside. It needs to be tightened down all the way and pretty hard. There is a sleeve in the bushing that prevents it from collapsing.


----------



## firebird (Feb 6, 2011)

i will post a pic later, i'm at work. but first time looking at it, it seems bit tricky


----------



## firebird (Feb 6, 2011)

the bolt is not in the middle, it goes through the gold bushing like at one end. so does that bolt when adjusted needs to be at the bottom towards floor, say 6 o'clock, or on top towards the seats of vehicle, say 12 o'clock? to increase the negative camber


----------



## svede1212 (Nov 1, 2005)

firebird said:


> the bolt is not in the middle, it goes through the gold bushing like at one end. so does that bolt when adjusted needs to be at the bottom towards floor, say 6 o'clock, or on top towards the seats of vehicle, say 12 o'clock? to increase the negative camber


You'd have to ask Andy on that one. I've never used his adjustables


----------



## firebird (Feb 6, 2011)

update. after getting help from Andy, i installed the camber adjuster last thursday, and today took the wheels off to check for any lose parts or if the cambers moved. so far after about 80 miles on the clock, the cambers are doing the job, i did tighten them a lot when i first installed them. and, i took the shocks off and pull the springs out to lift the control arm all the way up with the tire, and it is in the position it was when i adjusted them.

now i was hoping that with this adjustment i would be able to go up in size, but it will be impossible. not what i wanted to hear. sucks, but the offset i would need would be more like 42 instead of 35 i have.

hey svede, you said you have like a 55 offset with 9.5. is there enough room in there for a 295 judging by your eye with the camber adjusted? the reason, i am asking, i know this local guy that has 2 sets of corvette ZR1 wheels 18x9.5 with 57mm offset. he is willing to give them to me to test them, but he has no rubber on them. so i was thinking of going to this local used tire shop and get couple of 295 for 80 bucks to test it out, but i do not want to be wasting my money if it won't fit because it might be a tight fit for a 295. 

the zr1 should fit our bolt pattern and maybe with 2 or 3mm spacer, from what i gathered around. do you know anything on this subject?


----------



## firebird (Feb 6, 2011)

it's tub time guys  should have done it the first time i thought about it.


----------



## svede1212 (Nov 1, 2005)

I could get 295s in there. The 285s on my offset give plenty of room. I'd probably go to a 50ish offset tho with a thicker spacer like 8-10mm for it.


----------



## firebird (Feb 6, 2011)

yeah, it seems like it would be a real tight fit, the local tire shop has 285 used and i dont want to waste the money on new 295. the guy would sell me his zr1 wheels 9.5 with 57mm offseti would have to buy a spacer for the wheels too, might as well invest more money and my vacation and get the tub on it. just need to do some more research on it. the wheels are good deal i just don't know if that 295 would fit, pretty sure the nitto 555 would if they make it in this size.


----------

