# PCV And OTRCAI



## doww301 (Oct 30, 2011)

Getting ready to glass my otrcai. Concerned about pcv with this setup. I have ordered an oil catch can that has a breather on top. I wanted to delete the pcv and just vent each side with a 3/8" hose. One coming from the driver side valve cover and one coming from the valley cover vent-then cap everything else. Had an idea to tee them together, run the third line on the tee to the catch can and then let the outlet line from the catch can vent near bottom of the car. On the other hand, I could just run the valley cover outlet into the catch can and run the other line from there back into the intake manifold and call it good. I dont want to find any more oil on the back of my throttle body; and also, I would prefer to simply get only clean air into my intake manifold. If I can just vent both sides do I still need to get fresh air input into the fitting on the passenger side valve cover, or can I just cap that? I've done lots of searching on this and all the forum postings I have read and re-read generate LOTS of differing opinions on what to best do with the pcv. Another thing I've noticed is that guys who keep the fresh air from the intake have to install some 3/8" fitting into their silicone intake hoses between the maf and the throttle body. I'd rather see a cleaner look to my setup, but if the fresh air line is absolutely necessary then I will just do that. Thanks for your help in advance!


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## svede1212 (Nov 1, 2005)

You can have a "clean look" or a dirty engine. Your proposal is to run a bunch of hoses that do little. You should also not have a breather on the catch can. You need to understand how it works before you start re-engineering. The hose off the intake coupler provides fresh air to the crankcase. That is after the MAF so that it is metered as that air is later run back to the intake manifold and into the engine. Running without that and just venting is like having a leak in your intake manifold.

FWIW the back, driver's side valve cover port is a very poor place to vent from as a large amount of oil can come from there. Your best bet is to stick with the stock routing. The only improvement would be to put a check valve on that hose off the coupler to prevent reversion of oily air going in front of the TB from excessive blow-by.


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## svede1212 (Nov 1, 2005)

Just in case you missed one of the posts where I showed this the barb does not have to be a POS like the Vararam uses. Get a plastic 3/8" hose to hose barb and cut off one end. The center part of those is a larger diameter so it won't fall though. Push it in through a hole in the MAF>TB coupler and push the hose on from the outside to secure it.


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## doww301 (Oct 30, 2011)

*Big Help!!*

Thanks Svede! I've got a better understanding of this now. There's a lot of mis-information out there about this topic, and for that matter, about everything associated with this car. Its clearly not enough just to take advice from a racer who doesn't run his car on the street. That's where I got the plan to just run the hoses. I think I will stick with the stock routing and just add the catch can between the lifter valley and the intake. I can remove the breather and just cap that off. so there's no gasses venting out into the engine compartment. Back in the carbureted days, with my superbee, I just ran a breather on each valve cover on my 383. It worked fine. Obviously that concept wont work here. Thanks again for your help!


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## svede1212 (Nov 1, 2005)

For optimum results that check valve on the inlet side is a good idea. Using engine vacuum is an improvement over the old passive venting. The biggest issue with that tho is that the most blow-by is created at WOT and that's also when there is no vacuum to pull those gasses out. With no bias to the air movement and pressure in the crankcase the gases can go back up the inlet tube ahead of the TB and go into the manifold bypassing the catch can.


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