# Car pulls under braking



## Spastik Monkey (Mar 18, 2010)

Hey guys, new to the forum. I searched around and didn't see a definitive answer. Just bought an 05 6spd, 45k miles. It needs a minor alignment and a few other little things but i absolutely love it.

The issue I'm having, The car drives fine, but under really hard braking, it pulls to the left. The car does need a slight alignment but the alignment pulls slightly to the right. The pads all look even, slides and brake hardware is all greased and good. Anyone have any ideas?


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## Rukee (Feb 8, 2007)

Get the alignment squared away first, then see what it does.


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## jpalamar (Jul 22, 2008)

Wheels torqued properly? Wheels balanced correctly? PSI good? Wheel bearings OK? Bushings? Allignment?


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## Spastik Monkey (Mar 18, 2010)

The previous owner said he has replaced all the front busings on the car with poly. Wheels are balanced, the car has drag bags, I'm running 10psi in both bags. Tires are all set at 35 psi.


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## GM4life (Mar 18, 2007)

Bleed the brakes too.


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## dms (Jun 27, 2005)

having a brake pull, could be suspension, alignment, tires and/or brakes. 

for suspension, you could have something causing excess changes in camber,caster and/or toe. Tires to be pressure or a belt. Brakes could be a rotor/or caliper concern.

mike
dms


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## LOWET (Oct 21, 2007)

Spastik Monkey said:


> Hey guys, new to the forum. I searched around and didn't see a definitive answer. Just bought an 05 6spd, 45k miles. It needs a minor alignment and a few other little things but i absolutely love it.
> 
> The issue I'm having, The car drives fine, but under really hard braking, it pulls to the left. The car does need a slight alignment but the alignment pulls slightly to the right. The pads all look even, slides and brake hardware is all greased and good. Anyone have any ideas?




Get a alignment . Have the rotors checked and maybe turned downed a little.


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## Spastik Monkey (Mar 18, 2010)

Well i've been playing around with it more, and it only does it high speed (75mph+) and it does seem like the suspension shifts left when it does it, i'm thinking a caliper sticking or something jacked with the left side suspension. I'm taking it wednsday to get it aligned


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## Rukee (Feb 8, 2007)

Sounds like a ball joint or a bushing, again, go get an alignment. They will find whatever is wrong.


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## Vettekid1992 (Jan 23, 2010)

could be the brake hoses. if one of them is swelling then it could cause a pull


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## GM4life (Mar 18, 2007)

Vettekid1992 said:


> could be the brake hoses. if one of them is swelling then it could cause a pull


I had that happen to me, the brake hose callapsed internally, looked fine on the outside. It suckd', because I had to drive over 15 miles that way. I get about two break applications before I had to pull over and bleed that brake. That would happen at any speed, and it pulled the steering wheel hard. But my car had over 100k on it.


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## Spastik Monkey (Mar 18, 2010)

well that's basically what it does, yank the steering wheel. if you take your hands off the wheel, and hit the brakes itll turn to the right on its own and straighten up when you let off the brakes. i've bled the brake system, all new dot 4 fluid, rotated the tires front to back and had it aligned. still does it


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## Rukee (Feb 8, 2007)

Check the operation of the left front brake caliper. Either the caliper slides are frozen up not allowing the caliper to move, or the pads may be frozen in the holding fixture or possibly the left front hose is bad not allowing the fluid through cause the pulling.


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## GM4life (Mar 18, 2007)

Spastik Monkey said:


> well that's basically what it does, yank the steering wheel. if you take your hands off the wheel, and hit the brakes itll turn to the right on its own and straighten up when you let off the brakes. i've bled the brake system, all new dot 4 fluid, rotated the tires front to back and had it aligned. still does it


Jack the front end of the car up. Have someone sit in the car and apply the break, try to spin the wheel. Have them let off the brake while you try to spin the wheel, if it drags then the caliper is hanging up. I would say the brake line is calapsed, not allowing the fluid to return quick enough or like Ruk said. I would buy Russel Steel braded brake lines for about $130ish. Stock flex line is $102 and $160 from the dealer. You can buy a caliper overhaul kit for around $40 if you want to start there first. You can also make sure the slide pins are lubbed up and not rusted also.


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## aarons1k (May 23, 2008)

check your tires!! I had simular problem but mine would do it while breaking or not , I replaced the Rack and a new set of tires good to go .


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## Lautinjr (Mar 27, 2010)

If the problem only occurs under braking it either is a suspension shift from a warn componet or the brake hydralics. Lines would be the best place to start you would want to replace both fronts at once or it could just change directions. A caliper rebuild kit can be bought for 10.00 a caliper much cheaper then replacing the unit. Don't forget a rear malfunction will feel like a front one also especially at speed when the rear brakes actually have to work. EI if both left brakes work and only the front right is engaging that would split to power to 100% left and 70% right meaning it will pull you left. It just may only be noticable at speed because usally the front does most of the work. The only other thing would be the master or ABS pump. a clog in the pump could be slightly restricting fluid to one side which could be fixed with a nice long power flush with synthetic fluid. The master splits the brake fluid in a X pattern left front and right rear , Right front and left rear. So a ripp internally in the plunger can cause lower flow to one side and not other.


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## AlaGreyGoat (Jul 6, 2006)

I had the same problem. It was a caliper slide pin rusted in the caliper. 
I broke it trying to get it out and had to drill it out.
O'Reillys had the replacement.

Larry


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## Spastik Monkey (Mar 18, 2010)

ok, heres the update. i installed front and rear SS brake lines, DBA 6x6 front rotors, hawk pads up front, duramax rear pads and rotors, new slide boots and new slides up front. bled the whole system thuroughly. it still has some pull to the right but not as bad. any other ideas?


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## Gunslinger (Jan 5, 2010)

Alignment yet?


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## dms (Jun 27, 2005)

You could have a caliper hanging up. When you pushed in the piston, did they feel the same side to side?

You should also try swapping tires side to side to verify it is not the tires, then return them

If calipers and tires check out oK, then you have a issue with alignment and/or excess camber/caster toe change. the changes can be a result of weak front and rear radius rod bushings, upper strut bushings, excess wear in balljoint and tie rods. 

Best of luck

mike
dms


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## Foxman (Jan 25, 2010)

dms said:


> You could have a caliper hanging up. When you pushed in the piston, did they feel the same side to side?
> 
> You should also try swapping tires side to side to verify it is not the tires, then return them
> 
> ...



In reference to the radius rod bushings, I recall it was mentioned earlier that the previous owner replaced all the front buhings with poly.

I recall in another posting (regarding radius rod bushings) that Mike had metioned that when replacing the drivers side radius rod bushing (for the Pedders Kit), the factory spacer washer is supposed to be reused (but, as I mentioned earlier, for the DRIVERS SIDE ONLY). If i recall correctly, someone else had replaced theie RRB and had a similiar pulling problem when they forgot to use the factory spacer washer.

If I'm wrong on this Mike, please correct me. I cant remember the exact thread, but I remenber pictured illustrating replacement of the pedders component outlining this.


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## dms (Jun 27, 2005)

Foxman said:


> In reference to the radius rod bushings, I recall it was mentioned earlier that the previous owner replaced all the front buhings with poly.
> 
> I recall in another posting (regarding radius rod bushings) that Mike had metioned that when replacing the drivers side radius rod bushing (for the Pedders Kit), the factory spacer washer is supposed to be reused (but, as I mentioned earlier, for the DRIVERS SIDE ONLY). If i recall correctly, someone else had replaced theie RRB and had a similiar pulling problem when they forgot to use the factory spacer washer.
> 
> If I'm wrong on this Mike, please correct me. I cant remember the exact thread, but I remenber pictured illustrating replacement of the pedders component outlining this.



You got it 100% correct!. Great job! Now the only time I do not use that factory bias washer is if I am setting up a GTO for auto crossing, road or drag racing where bias steering is not a issue or concern.

I will again always preach to get a copy of your alignment specs so you have them and if there is a issue, you can post them and we all can review and assist you

To say they were within GM specs means nothing and in fact can get scary if they are in specs but without thought

thanks
mike
dms
mike
dms


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## Magicspeed (Nov 14, 2011)

*my GTO pulls to the left under braking*

I am having the exact same issue but it pulls to the right. Did you ever cure the problem? I replaced my front radius rod bushings and my steering feels alot tighter but it didnt fix the issue. I am now moving to replace the tie-rod ends and the rear radius bushings. I am curious if you fixed the problem and how? Thanks.


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## aarons1k (May 23, 2008)

Turn your rotors , should do the trick .


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## noel the legend (Sep 27, 2007)

Spastik Monkey said:


> ok, heres the update. i installed front and rear SS brake lines, DBA 6x6 front rotors, hawk pads up front, duramax rear pads and rotors, new slide boots and new slides up front. bled the whole system thuroughly. it still has some pull to the right but not as bad. any other ideas?


I am having the same problem. Had the Pedders Street II installed in March/April and car pulls to the left/steering wheel shudders when going over 60 or down a steep hill. Took the car in for an alignment and told them about the problem. They told me that the rotors were warped and that the brake pads were well worn.

The rotors are a rust color. I have researched and found that the OEM pads are crap (surprise, surprise) and that people have experienced similar problems. This is what I've read:

1. The poop OEM pads can overheat and effectively "melt", developing a smooth-ish surface, yet still measure that there is life left. Once "melted" the pad has perminently lost it's bite and braking ability is reduced.
2. The poop OEM pads can cause so much heat that the residue transfers to the rotor and solidifies onto it, causing an uneven surface very similar to rotor warpage.
3. The poop OEM pads can cause enough heat that they warp the rotor. The OEM rotor does not dissepate heat well at all, and, let's face it, our cars are a bit fat. 
4. All three can combine and lead to varying levels of severity. 

Can anyone validate any of what I just stated? Anyone experience this and have a fix?

I am actually looking to do the exact same thing as SPASTIK MONKEY (DBA 6 x 6 Rotors, Hawk Ceramic Pads, Russell SS lines - through marrylandspeed.com). Someone tell me to stop if it won't work. I mean, I probably won't listen, because I'll use any excuse to mod, but at least tell me I'm off base.


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## GTO JUDGE (May 14, 2005)

The OEM rotors are not the best. They are not suited for hard braking at high speeds. When I hit them hard at high speeds I too get a shuttering on the steering wheel. This is a sign of warping. Mine are not that bad I can feel it under normal driving conditions ( I noticed my issue a few years ago at 120mph on the track at Watkins Glen when hitting the turns) They have not shuttered since but....... I am anticipating replacing them when the time comes with a top of the line set.

If you are experiencing this, you may want to spring for new rotors and pads.... Also check the tie rod ends for slop.


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## noel the legend (Sep 27, 2007)

DBA 4000 series 6x6 rotors (F/R) are in, along with Hawk HP Ceramic pads and Russell SS Brake Lines. Installing on Saturday. Can't wait! Back roads, ahoy! (did I just F'n say "ahoy"? Am I a friggin pirate?)


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## noel the legend (Sep 27, 2007)

Everything is installed and has 100% fixed my problem. The brakes don't fade like OEM, either. I was a bit concerned about the noise from the ceramic pads, but they don't make a peep. Very satisfied!


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## C'VilleGTO (Sep 10, 2010)

I am looking at picking up dba 4000 series t3's with the Hawk HP ceramic for all 4. I have an 05 6m with just over 93k and only had the fronts turned and with pads about 20k back. Starting to get some shaking at hard braking and noise in the back. I don't mean to hijack the topic but i was wondering if anyone else has this setup.


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