# Pitman arm installation issue



## 21553 (Sep 30, 2012)

I replaced my power steering gearbox since it had a bad leak. I replaced it with a 10:1 Lares unit 974 with a new steering coupler. Installation of the gearbox was mostly straightforward until I got to the pitman arm. It goes into place fine and I only had enough room for the nut without the lock washer so I used an impact to press it on far enough to get the washer and nut on. Once I did this I was using an impact as I have read and seen others do with no issue. As I was impacting it the nut stripped. The threads on the gearbox look ok. I had to order a new nut which should be here tomorrow. I am afraid to use the impact again but if this is truly the best way I will give it a try. I don't wan't to damage the threads on the gearbox. Any one have this issue or have suggestions?


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## Lemans guy (Oct 14, 2014)

The reason the torque wrench works on these and on nuts on pulleys is the speed of the wrench, not the high torque. If you can dial the torque back a bit, it should go on and stop, don’t keep slamming it with heavy torque.....it takes a bit of torque to strip the nut.

so another torque wrench or one dialed back a bit. One good hit and stop would be best..

you will get it, give it another try.....


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## 21553 (Sep 30, 2012)

Lemans guy said:


> The reason the torque wrench works on these and on nuts on pulleys is the speed of the wrench, not the high torque. If you can dial the torque back a bit, it should go on and stop, don’t keep slamming it with heavy torque.....it takes a bit of torque to strip the nut.
> 
> so another torque wrench or one dialed back a bit. One good hit and stop would be best..
> 
> you will get it, give it another try.....


Thanks, I'll try it without the impact tomorrow


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## Lemans guy (Oct 14, 2014)

You may still need an impact,....just one with less torque....Good luck!


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## 21553 (Sep 30, 2012)

Lemans guy said:


> You may still need an impact,....just one with less torque....Good luck!


Thanks. I was looking at some other impacts that have reduction settings.


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## 21553 (Sep 30, 2012)

So I still can't get it to go on as far as the old one. Do you think I have enough engagement? I torqued it to 140ft-lbs. It appears to be about 0.20 - 0.25 less engagement than the old one. There is 0.7" gap from the top of the pitman arm to the steering gearbox.The nut is not quite to the bottom of the shaft.


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## Lemans guy (Oct 14, 2014)

Yeah I would want a little more thread, can you take off the nut and washer and using a thick socket like an impact socket, over the shaft just on the pitman arm and hit it with a hammer.

like a small 3 lb sledge just to give it a little more purchase. Don’t bend anything, but a couple of good raps and then try to retorque to 140 ft lbs.


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## 21553 (Sep 30, 2012)

Lemans guy said:


> Yeah I would want a little more thread, can you take off the nut and washer and using a thick socket like an impact socket, over the shaft just on the pitman arm and hit it with a hammer.
> 
> like a small 3 lb sledge just to give it a little more purchase. Don’t bend anything, but a couple of good raps and then try to retorque to 140 ft lbs.


I'll give it a try


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## 21553 (Sep 30, 2012)

Well No luck. I even loosened the gearbox to eliminate and binding but nothing worked. So I am going to remove the pitman arm and see if I can clean the inside. Hoping this will get it on further. I need to get a pickle fork or something to get the pitman arm off. Any other ideas would be greatly appreciated.


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## Lemans guy (Oct 14, 2014)

A pitman arm puller is best, you can get a loaner from auto parts, but they are not that expensive either.


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## Lemans guy (Oct 14, 2014)

Also. 140 lb torque stick....that goes onto your impact wrench will prevent over torque and stripping but should still deliver enough torque to get it on properly....

maybe the cleanining will give you just a bit more...


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## 21553 (Sep 30, 2012)

Lemans guy said:


> A pitman arm puller is best, you can get a loaner from auto parts, but they are not that expensive either.


I have a pitman arm puller for the gearbox side but need to remove the other end. Since there is no way to get it off the bottom of the gearbox. I would need to remove the gearbox again or thought was to remove the castle nut for the tie rod end and use a pickle fork to wedge it off that side.


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## 21553 (Sep 30, 2012)

Lemans guy said:


> Also. 140 lb torque stick....that goes onto your impact wrench will prevent over torque and stripping but should still deliver enough torque to get it on properly....
> 
> maybe the cleanining will give you just a bit more...


I looked at those torque sticks but it stated they needed to be calibrated. It is so strange that it just won't go on any further since the old to the new gearbox shafts look the same appear to measure close via a digital caliper. I am hoping that I can get it off and clean it enough. If not I will try to order a new pitman arm next or I might try putting another gearbox in. I really didn't think it was going to be this hard of a job. Thanks for your help and suggestions.


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## Lemans guy (Oct 14, 2014)

You do have the inside splines lined up correctly, double check because it only goes on one way,..there are wide and thin flat areas inside you can see them and they must line up.


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## 21553 (Sep 30, 2012)

Lemans guy said:


> You do have the inside splines lined up correctly, double check because it only goes on one way,..there are wide and thin flat areas inside you can see them and they must line up.


Yes the splines are definitely correct. I checked that several times as well finding the center of the gearbox. I think the gearbox shaft is not to spec. after getting the pitman arm out it slides on the old gearbox further just by hand. See the first pic. In te 2nd pic is the it placed on the new gearbox. So if this would account for 0.20 - 0.25 difference on the assembled unit. The pitman arm looks good still and didn't need an real cleaning even though I did this. I might have to try another manufacturer other than Lares. I was hoping it being a Minnesota company I could get a quality part. I will now have to spend extra time to get it removed and sent back.


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## 21553 (Sep 30, 2012)

I spoke with the manufacturer and it is fine where it was mounted. It only needs 2/3 engagement and the nut was on far enough. So sorry for bothering you and thank for your help. I guess I learned something and now just need to be back together. I hope it goes smoothly and get back together.


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## Lemans guy (Oct 14, 2014)

Well good news then, it is a tapered spline....so the pitman arm can only go so far on it.

Lares parts are good. Just torque it like you did, if they say it is good.


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## 21553 (Sep 30, 2012)

Lemans guy said:


> Well good news then, it is a tapered spline....so the pitman arm can only go so far on it.
> 
> Lares parts are good. Just torque it like you did, if they say it is good.


Thanks again for your help


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## integrity6987 (May 10, 2017)

Did a search of the forum and found this thread to be the most current.....it might belong on a different thread 
(re: tools) that has not seen much activity recently.

Torque wrenches are essential tools to ensure the final assembly is safe. I have a few, one of them is a 1/2 drive from Harbor Freight. I have had it for several years and use it only about 10 times per year (check lug torque after tire rotations and as needed working on GTO or family cars). When I first got it, I took it to work to check the claimed +/- 4% accuracy. When new it was in spec (surprising for a $10 tool made in CHI-NA)

My last use was in October and it did not feel "right" I had it set for 35 ft-lbs which is on the bottom of the scale for it.
Finally had a chance to get back to the plant AND remember to bring the tool AND get the calibration tech to check it.
Result not good:
set at 30 actual 8.5
set at 100 actual 66
set at 150 actual 116

This tool is NOW a breaker bar - good for turning the engine over manually (and maybe that is how I broke it??)

Moral of this story: Use the right tool for the job (a real breaker bar for turning the engine over manually and other disassembly) and use measurement instruments appropriately. Check the calibration if you can (or know someone).

Replacement Craftsman is on the way - not a lifetime warranty on those, but as good a warranty as Snap-On, which if $$ is not an object is usually/arguably the best out there. That is why the pros use them.


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## BearGFR (Aug 25, 2008)

integrity6987 said:


> Finally had a chance to get back to the plant AND remember to bring the tool AND get the calibration tech to check it.
> Result not good:
> set at 30 actual 8.5
> set at 100 actual 66
> ...


If it's a 'clicker type' wrench, it's super important to ALWAYS completely back off the setting to its lowest as soon as you finish using it. The mechanism inside works against spring tension, and the higher the setting, the tighter the spring. If you don't back it off before storing, then over time the spring will begin to lose its tension which will cause it to 'click' at a lower torque than what the wrench is set to. I learned that the hard way on my good Craftsman wrench. However, I was able to recalibrate it myself, using one of these:

1/2" digital torque adapter

Bear


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## integrity6987 (May 10, 2017)

BearGFR said:


> If it's a 'clicker type' wrench, it's super important to ALWAYS completely back off the setting to its lowest as soon as you finish using it. The mechanism inside works against spring tension, and the higher the setting, the tighter the spring. If you don't back it off before storing, then over time the spring will begin to lose its tension which will cause it to 'click' at a lower torque than what the wrench is set to. I learned that the hard way on my good Craftsman wrench. However, I was able to recalibrate it myself, using one of these:
> 
> 1/2" digital torque adapter
> 
> Bear


That was my habit....not sure what I did/what happened. I loaned it to my son and it came back to me unloaded like I instructed (he's not an idiot).. but it is mostly trash now. That adapter is a cool tool. I'll add to my wish list.


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## 67ventwindow (Mar 3, 2020)

I have a couple of old torque  breaker bars. I paint them so I dont accidently use them. When they get sloppy they go in the 4H bin to become a welded piece of art. Frogs butterflies and such.


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