# VIN number check



## mblanco2000 (Jun 26, 2014)

I recently purchased a 66 GTO that is about 3 hours from Houston. The owner first wanted just a wire transfer and then would hand over the car and title after 3 days. I told him that was not acceptable. Now he requested me meet him at his bank and we could do a cashiers check, and then go get the car.

I am starting to get the feeling the guy is doing everything he can to get me to pay first and then see the car. I just want to verify what I bought before paying for it, does not sound too strange to me. That being said I am starting to get a bit uneasy about this transaction.

If he does agree to let me see the car and all the parts before we run to the bank I want to verify the VIN#242176G124709. I have read about other places the VIN might be and wanted to verify with you guys.

1. top of the frame at the rear driver side wheel (can you see this with the body on the car?)

2. Somewhere along the firewall

3. In the drivers side door jamb. (Which part of the jamb?)

Anywhere else I need to be checking? Thanks for the help, this site has already been a great place to get information.


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## Matthew (Feb 11, 2011)

The VIN tag is right below the upper hinge on the left (driver's) side. Not sure you are going to find the VIN on the left rear frame rail. I believe it is on top about two foot from the end. Check the data plate on the front left side of the fire wall. I would be more concerned with the frame being solid than if it had a matching VIN stamped on it. 

Agree with you - look at the car before you buy. I would check the VIN tag and data plate and as long as it does not appear they have been replaced, I would trust it to be correct. Of course, I would run the VIN past law enforcement first. Best of luck, Matt


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## mblanco2000 (Jun 26, 2014)

Thanks Matthew. I am concerned about the frame as well and will be checking that of course.

When people talk about a "numbers matching car" what exactly do they mean. The term seems to be fairly broad and tossed around alot casually. I took it to mean the frame, body and motor were all original to that particular car. Is that true or can you have a numbers matching car if you have a numbers matching car if say your body/frame are a 66 GTO but the motor is just a 389 Pontiac from that era?


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## rickm (Feb 8, 2012)

all it means is the WHOLE drive train has a production date alittle before the birthdate on the trim tag. it DOES NOT mean all the components are original to the car the day it rolled off the assembly line. most gtos are period correct, lets face reality. the prices on a matching numbers car to me is alittle high. not worth it to me. you can buy an awesome gto with period correct and be very happy with it.


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## pjw1967 (Mar 10, 2014)

Just from osmosis over the years, I don't think you will find a VIN number anywhere else but on the door jamb for 1967 and earlier GTO's. BUT, you can find the engine block number on the pass side front of the block below the head. If you get to PHS real quick, they may be able to fax you back the build sheet for that VIN. It will have the engine block number. The odds of having a stolen VIN plate and the block that matches the VIN are pretty long in my opinion. PHS closes PM July 2 and reopens July 7. Here is the info from their website and a link:
To order your VIN and Information Packet, please complete the following order form. Check your entries on the following page. If it is correct, select "Print" from your menu bar. Print out the resulting page and mail it to PHS (address is on the final form) with a check (checks are held for 30 days), money order (drawn on a U.S. bank) or completed credit card information (VISA or Mastercard accepted). The cost of each information packet is $65.00 ($75.00 U.S. for international orders). 

NEW! Now you can fax your order in when using a credit card. We can also fax back the important information to those who are in the process of buying a car and send the remainder of the package to you in the mail. The charge for the fax back service is an additional $15.00 for this service. Simply complete the form below and instead of mailing it in to us, fax it to (586)781-5167. Please note that our fax line is to be used for credit card orders only and is not a question line. 

PHS Historic Services

https://www.google.com/search?q=ima...omp.net%2Ftopic.asp%3FTOPIC_ID%3D7201;687;521


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## 05GTO (Oct 6, 2004)

mblanco2000 said:


> I recently purchased a 66 GTO that is about 3 hours from Houston. The owner first wanted just a wire transfer and then would hand over the car and title after 3 days. I told him that was not acceptable. Now he requested me meet him at his bank and we could do a cashiers check, and then go get the car.
> 
> I am starting to get the feeling the guy is doing everything he can to get me to pay first and then see the car. I just want to verify what I bought before paying for it, does not sound too strange to me. That being said I am starting to get a bit uneasy about this transaction.
> 
> ...


1) There is a partial vin on top of the frame rail that is hard to see with the body removed and almost impossible to see with the body in place,
2) The data plate is on the firewall, verify that it is also from Framingham, Mass. if the car is a hardtop it should read 6624217 FRA ******.
3) Make sure the vin tag in the door jam is attached with rosette rivets,

Also, check the casting number on the block, it is located next to the distributor along with the date code for the block, verify the date code is prior to the date listed on the data plate. The 66 GTO casting is 9778789 and the 66 GTO letter codes are located on the front of the block on the passenger's side, 
Some of the letter codes are; 
WW 389 335 
WT 389 335 
YS 389 335 
XE 389 335 
WV 389 360 
WS 389 360 
XS 389 360 
YR 389 360 

I would be cautious dealing with someone who does not want you to see the car before buying it, sounds like he is hiding something. I would not buy a GTO without first ordering a PHS report.


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## geeteeohguy (Feb 2, 2008)

What 05 said, and mblanco, your instinct is dead on correct. Do not pay a dime until you lay your hands on the car. Verify that the VIN has not been tampered with. And get the PHS for the car. You can have it faxed right on the spot for extra $$$, but it is well worth it if the car is bogus. And if not, you will have the right documentation for your car. Win win.


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