# It's alive!!!!!! Mmmuuuaaahhaahhaahhaa



## Instg8ter (Sep 28, 2010)

Tempestein LIVES....got in my 20 minute cam break in in two 10 minute runs, had a few leaks to fix and with no shroud i shut her down at 200 degrees. I am waiting for my daughters videos to load and i will post this evening. Man with open headers this thing sounds mean even without the timing dialed in, i almost forgot how thumpy these motors are. Just starting to come down off the adrenaline rush, think i zapped my alt so i will have to take that to my elec. guy for a re-build but other than that she seems tight as a drum, thanks to all for the help and advise....off for some dinner and i will post later.... arty:arty:arty:arty:arty:arty:arty:arty:arty:arty:arty: 

s1098.photobucket.com/albums/g372/instg8ter/1966 Tempest/?start=0

Brian


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## 68greengoat (Sep 15, 2005)

I think someone is a little excited. CONGRATS!!!!!!!!!! Can't wait to see the vids!


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## 400fitz (Jul 7, 2010)

Good job! I know what you will be talking about at dinner.


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## Eric Animal (Oct 28, 2007)

That would be "TEMPESTEIN".....Congrats Brian!!!!!!:cheers Eric P.S. Be careful to chain it in the lab, so it doesn't escape and terrorize the villagers!:rofl:


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## Instg8ter (Sep 28, 2010)

all ready terrorized the neighbors and the pets Eric, we were 200 feet away when it was breaking in and we still could not hear each other talk. Owe a lot to the Harley Mechanic across the street Gary, he saw me out there and came over to help (run the show....LOL) thank god. He got me up and going in a few hours working out the bugs....:cheers to him and all who gave advise, parts and help on here. Video to come as soon as it loads.


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## Eric Animal (Oct 28, 2007)

Eeeexxxxxxxxxxellent!


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## SixTeight (Apr 24, 2011)

Awesome. Can't wait to see the clips.


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## Instg8ter (Sep 28, 2010)

heres the Tempest while we were breaking in the cam at 2000+ rmp, have a little gas leak from my pump only when shut down, also need to get the alt checked and fix a header leak from passengers side front. have to get exhaust back on tomorrow and get it dialed in this week with the timing light. Going up to the school this week to schedule paint booth time in the next few weeks.


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## BearGFR (Aug 25, 2008)

Instg8ter said:


> heres the Tempest while we were breaking in the cam at 2000+ rmp, have a little gas leak from my pump only when shut down, also need to get the alt checked and fix a header leak from passengers side front. have to get exhaust back on tomorrow and get it dialed in this week with the timing light. Going up to the school this week to schedule paint booth time in the next few weeks.


VERY COOL! arty:

Congrats!!

Bear


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## Instg8ter (Sep 28, 2010)

thanks Bear, should i change the oil out now before i start dialing it in, also do i retorque all bolts now, and do you loosen and retorque or just check and make sure they are set at specs. Sure i will have a hundred other questions, thanks for all the past and future help guys...another step ahead...:cheers


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## GTO JUDGE (May 14, 2005)

Sounds like a symphony. NICE!


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## jetstang (Nov 5, 2008)

Congrats!!!
Sounds great!
I would change the oil. Depending on what gaskets you used if you have to retorque anything. I didn't..


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## Instg8ter (Sep 28, 2010)

thanks Jet and GTOJudge, have a fresh batch of VR-1 ready to go in, used the Felpro gaskets. dropped my alt off today and it was shot, he should have it re-built by tomorrow. Fresh new battery in the back of the truck, am gonna pull the plugs and check gap and see what they look like, then get a timing light on it and dial it in. Making an appointment tomorrow for the paint booth in a few weeks then its all re-assembly.


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## BearGFR (Aug 25, 2008)

Instg8ter said:


> thanks Bear, should i change the oil out now before i start dialing it in, also do i retorque all bolts now, and do you loosen and retorque or just check and make sure they are set at specs. Sure i will have a hundred other questions, thanks for all the past and future help guys...another step ahead...:cheers


Change the oil "whenever you're ready". It doesn't have to be right away. If it's close to drivable, then you could put on a couple hundred miles or so then do it. One tip Mr. P-Body passed on to me when I did mine was to save your oil filter from break-in, cut it open, and look through the filter element for evidence of metal in thr form of gray powder. You might find "a tiny bit" which is normal, but you don't want to see a "lot" of it.

Torque the head bolts by tightening them down to spec - don't loosen them first. You can wait on that too a little bit if you want, until the motor's had a chance to go through a few full heat cycles and "settle in".

I'm jealous, you realize -- right? 

Bear


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## Mr. P-Body (Jan 20, 2011)

Only a couple of "things" in life better! (and they don't involve "cars"...) Congrats!

Jim


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## Instg8ter (Sep 28, 2010)

No Kidding Jim, wife said i looked as nervous as when i was delivering the girls....and i was, then to hear them open headers start thumping under the seat just sent a chill up my spine. Been 25 years since i wrenched on my cars (out of poverty and a need to get to work the next day) i am really glad i decided to tackle it myself. and you and all the other regs on here have been a great source of info and motivation, by words and actions. Just goes to show we all shouldn'tt have to learn the hard way only the right way.

Bear you have no reason to be jealous with that monster of yours, looks like we will be doing the paint thing around the same time, if i get a few extra bucks this summer i will get it on a chassis dyno to see how close your engine program comes, have a feeling you were right on the money.


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## Mikesan (Apr 2, 2011)

You have to be quite proud. Congrats on getting her up and running. My hat's off to you guys who can do all this stuff on your own. Me, I can chase parts, shine stainless, and write checks. Great job so far. Looking forward to seeing her as you progress.


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## nyte_ryder67 (Feb 18, 2011)

Just watched your video, that was cool. Congrats on all your hard work!


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## Instg8ter (Sep 28, 2010)

thanks Nyte.....Mike, you would be surprised at what you can do and the cash it can save you, I am more of a fabricator and carpenter by trade, this is the first motor build ever and the guys on here helped more than anyone, from picking the right parts to the multitude of tech questions. Its one thing to hear a new motor run for the first time but to hear one run that you put together is Cathartic. When i started this build i planned on jobbing a lot of it out, but as it has progressed and i found that i COULD do the things i was going to have others do (Body, Piant, Motor, suspension) I soon realized that i wanted to be an Owner of this car in every respect, not just a driver of it. Had a guy over yesterday and he started with the "did you know, this and thats" and i told him i know every bolt on this car intimately. every modification is easily un-doable back to original and i still have the #'s 326 which will get a stock + re-build when time and budget allow to stay with the car. I know its not a GTO (although it specs as one now) but its as close as i'll get barring a lotto win. A GTO (242) in the shape and barn find condition 99.9% factory complete that this was would have cost 5 times what i paid for it to start and sat in my shop for 10 years as i found the money for resto. I picked it up in Sept and it will be on the road by June 1 if i have anything to say about it.....arty:

heres a photo log of the build:

http://s1098.photobucket.com/albums/g372/instg8ter/1966 Tempest/

Brian


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## jetstang (Nov 5, 2008)

And it is your car!! It's not someone elses build that you bought, it's yours!! I don't say a car is mine until I do some major projects on it.. There is a dif between owning a car and it being your car..
Congrats and get that biatch on the road.. And don't wreck it, lol...:cheers


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## Instg8ter (Sep 28, 2010)

Thats the plan Jet, it's idling rich, I have to grab a fuel pressure gauge/regulator to get the new HD fuel pump down to around 5 psi to keep the Eddy happy. Also i am still not able to find a source that does not drop off to zero on crank in the engine harness or fuse block, will pull ignition switch again and try to tap it there. No word from Ames on the center link...GRRRR, hate to put things back together twice, but if the weathers nice i want to at least pull it out and check the new trans is working properly (flog it up and down the street....lol). Not happy with the new mufflers (too loud) so i will be ordering another set when i find some i like through research of youtubes.


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## 66tempestGT (Nov 28, 2009)

i have the same problem with my wiring. i thought it might have something to do with eliminating the factory charging system and starter wiring. my buddy thinks something may be wrong inside my ignition switch. let us know what you find out. sounds good:cheers


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## Instg8ter (Sep 28, 2010)

thanks Shane...ready for paint in a few weeks.....seems the wire we need is the purple one that was on the R post of the original starter (if i remember right you have a HT mini also) thing is mine was snipped off when i got the car and cannot find where they cut that wire from the harness. a friend sent me some newer ignition switch PN's that our key cylinders will fit into that have more lugs off the harness for a direct wire from ignition to dist and they also bypass the original dash lights at crank to throw full voltage for start i will post them for you as i may go that route.


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## Topkat (Sep 9, 2010)

CONGRATS Instg8ter!!!!
:cheers
sure is a good feeling...........
you da man!!!!
"it wants to............. it wants to......ZAROOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOM!!!!!!!!!
you rock man!!!!!arty:arty:arty:


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## Instg8ter (Sep 28, 2010)

thanks Top been following yours as well, sounds like your getting ready for the road....good deal bud, get some video of it running.....arty:


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## tyler t (Aug 15, 2010)

man i loooooove what you did to your dash Instg8ter
it is truly AWSOME


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## Instg8ter (Sep 28, 2010)

thanks Tyler, Just dashes gets around 800.00 for that set-up w/o gauges, did two of them , one original and one with the gauge pod for under 100.00 in materials including the summit gauges...i have a budy who has a 68' in his garage, next time i am over there i will take a look and see if its doable for yours...if you look on my photobucket it shows pics of how i did it.

1966 Tempest pictures by instg8ter - Photobucket

Brian


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## jetstang (Nov 5, 2008)

Here's my wiring diagramn, it shows a black and pink wire running to the hot side of the coil. Both these wires need to run to the hot of the HEI. But, I don't know what is stopping them from back feeding, that is why I run the relay.. My schematic is 14X20, so you can print all 3 out and put them together, or order your own as their number is on the pics and I'm sure they would appreciate the business.


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## Instg8ter (Sep 28, 2010)

thanks Jet, i have wire diagram book...what i don't have is the purple starter "R" wire:confused...will put my meter on both resistor and black/yellow and check Jet, was leery of it as you said because of back feeding and frying something, my black/yellow does not seem to have any power at all...maybe i had a bad ground on meter....i will re-test, you said you used a headlight switch 3-way 87 87a correct? am leaning towards my buddy's ignition switch fix as the harness gives you two feeds directly from each position for any add on accessories and your original lock cylinder and key will fit in the switch and bezel threads match ours ...here it is

at autozone... connector 642 fits the back of the LS411 ignition switch...

use lock cylinder LS543 ... that does not come with the LS411..... 

wire it up and you should be ready to fire it up with a key...

the part numbers are duralast... and wells.... if you don't have an autozone nearby....


Can i use my original lock cylinder and keys with this???


Part Number: LC14220
Alternate Part Number: 14220LW are the current and same part numbers...

and YES... you can use the original....

another thing... brand new uncoded strattec lock cylinders are still available .. coded or uncoded... the 66 as i know came with the conventional primary key. without the big square head..

almost any locksmith can rekey these or insert the proper pins... when you have the original lock cylinder out of the dash.. there is a 4 digit code stamped into the side of the lock cylinder.. if you take that with you ... to a lock smith.. with the car... many locksmiths can cut a NEW key by the code... so it is like new.. some will have the proper blank.... the proper code numbers will be between 8000 and 9499... for the 66 model year...

i happen to have original lock catalogs... so i will post the original lock part numbers.. you may find it handy... as some are still in use.... gm uses them directly in many cases...looks like a tiny difference..but you can walk into any parts store for current aftermarket versions...

ignition lock cylinder uncoded... 603103 gm # 7031272
ignition lock cylinder coded.. 603079 GM # 7031609 probably not available coded...

the current coded number is 605532 ... fits 66 to 93...


the proper key blank is 32318 in strattec.. for the ignition.. groove 15 primary...


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## jetstang (Nov 5, 2008)

No, headlight relay only has one switch 87, no 87a. A good parts store should be able to figure out the right relay. 
I just remembered that I was using that relay for the fuel pump on my 454, YEAH!! SO, here it is: pn 0322 204-150
Bosch
Note the 87 and 87a are both switches. Then run a 10 gauge wire from the battery, then out to the dizzy hot. This will ensure full coil saturation. Last wire is a ground..
G8ter, Backfeeding will just make it so when you turn the car off with the key, the car doesn't turn off. Nothing will fry. If it starts and runs, that's the correct 2 wires. The fix is to run a diode in line so it can't backfeed or just run this relay.


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## stracener (Jul 27, 2010)

Congrats Instig8ter. The car sounds great!! Have fun.


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## Instg8ter (Sep 28, 2010)

thanks Stacener, working on getting it tuned and the pipes on thats at 2100 rpm as soon as it fired with no tune and open headers. have it starting with a bump of the key but i think my fuel pressure is too high as its idling rich no matter where i set it, this is all new to me....need to grab fuel and vacuum gauges for the weekend, just remembered that i only have 3 lugs on each rim so i guess my rides out for this weekend, plus the center link still has'nt shown up...

Thanks Jet as soon as i have a helper i will test that and if it works go with the switch, did you do it on both your pontiacs? just mount on firewall near dizzy? i like that it keeps the harness intact and in use.


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## 66tempestGT (Nov 28, 2009)

i see that the purple has power on start and the white has power on run. if i hook them both to the ignition it seems like it will keep my starter running all the time?


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## Eric Animal (Oct 28, 2007)

:agree I think so.


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## Instg8ter (Sep 28, 2010)

Shane, Jet is saying that the Black/yellow stripe and the white (or pink) that were originally on the coil + together will run the dizzy in both modes....have yet to Meter it as i have no helper tonight. Does your purple have full 12 volt at acc. and start? or just acc. and drop off to 0 at start? As i understand it the white should have around 9 volts at run because it would fry points at 12 constant and the black/yellow threw 12 volts only on start to fire efficiently.


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## 66tempestGT (Nov 28, 2009)

i see the black w/yellow on the diagram. it makes perfect sense. but i tested every wire coming out of my firewall and none had power on start. looks like i need to dig deeper. i eliminated my purple wire and a good many other wires. im using an internally regulated one wire alternator. im starting to believe my problem is in the switch. i did change out the resistor wire for a normal wire. i used the old temp sending unit wire. just unclipped it and moved it to the resistor wire position. thanks for the info. i will do some more checking.


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## BearGFR (Aug 25, 2008)

Instg8ter said:


> but i think my fuel pressure is too high as its idling rich no matter where i set it


That could mean that your idle circuit isn't passing enough air, so to keep it running you have to adjust the speed screw in enough so that the primary throttle plates are actually opening a little - so that it's actually idling on the transfer slots instead of the idle circuit. I know what to do on a Qjet to get it to pass more idle air, but not on an Edelbrock carb. 

Most Qjets have an idle bypass air passage that can be opened up to pass more air. On the few that don't, the fix is to drill one very small hole near the leading edge of each primary throttle plate, just above the idle mixture feed port. Start small, like 1/16", working your way up in size gradually until you find the point where it'll idle with the throttle plates completely closed, then you should be able to set your idle mixture using the screws as per normal.

Bear

Ah! I just found a photo that shows the idle bypass air being enlarged on a Qjet. If your E-carb looks similar to this on the top side of the throttle plate, then it too has bypass air and should respond to the same treatment. It doesn't take much - open this up very gradually, a tiny bit at a time.
Here's the photo:


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## jetstang (Nov 5, 2008)

Instg8ter said:


> Shane, Jet is saying that the Black/yellow stripe and the white (or pink) that were originally on the coil + together will run the dizzy in both modes....have yet to Meter it as i have no helper tonight. Does your purple have full 12 volt at acc. and start? or just acc. and drop off to 0 at start? As i understand it the white should have around 9 volts at run because it would fry points at 12 constant and the black/yellow threw 12 volts only on start to fire efficiently.


Right! I know that when I hooked them to my HEI the car didn't turn off. What changed between the point coil and the HEI is beyond me. My 70 runs off 1 wire and doesn't drop voltage, so I just changed connectors and never had an issue.
Bear is right about drilling small holes in the primaries to get it into the idle circuit, but you shouldn't have to do it unless you have a healthy cam and low vacuum. I would make sure this is the issue before I drilled, as this is a race car only deal.


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## Instg8ter (Sep 28, 2010)

grabbing vacuum and fuel pressure gauge tomorrow so i know where i stand before i waste a bunch of time, been watching edelbrock vids and they say this condition can happen if pressure is over 6, and i installed high volume mech pump, have not toyed with it other than start it and it starts with a quick bump of the starter and no pedal so its gotta be close. do have a little issue with some antifreeze dripping from back of passengers side low onto headers, was not there on cam break in and the next few times i ran it, only showed up yesterday after a few up to temp (165) runs and cool downs while checking base timing in total maybe a cup of fluid, have not checked torque on heads yet, will have to investigate.


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## Instg8ter (Sep 28, 2010)

well aside from the alt belt squeel (need to fab back bracket and scuff up the chrome and billet pulleys) she is idling now with the inline fuel regulator at 5 psi, no more fumes, all leaks are sealed need to bolt up drivers side exhaust and get my center link from ames . Its making 15-17 vacuum at idle maxed out when timing, seems to like a bit of advance i am around 15 with vac advance unplugged and all in around 2800rpm with 36* with it plugged in, carb is still not right have a stumble or miss when i open it up but revs fine up rpm range to 3500+....heres a vid




s1098.photobucket.com/albums/g372/instg8ter/1966 Tempest/?start=0

Brian


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## jetstang (Nov 5, 2008)

SOUNDS GREAT!! 
May need to shim your starter a bit so it doesn't hang up. Don't spend too much on tires this time, as it may be a little traction limited due to the fun factor of big smokey burnouts!


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## Instg8ter (Sep 28, 2010)

got the new fuel pump on and set up the cold air intake today, routed it behind the headlights in the outer corners of the grille, gonna hit the junkyard and try and find some modern pickups that will mount behind the grill to draw in as much air as possible. chrome alt pulley is squeeling gonna have to take the belt off and scuff chrome up with some sandpaper as i dont want to pull the belt any tighter. radiator seems to be doing its job as at idle never gets over 165 (thermostat rating) waiting to see what it does under load. heres some vid of it running, think i will have to re-set idle mixture with air cleaner in place as it jumped back a little lean after i put cleaner on. OHHH, also hooked up the ignition relay so i have full power to dizzy at crank (thanks Jetstang)


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## Eric Animal (Oct 28, 2007)

Jet, There is another member on here from Niceville Fl......just sayin' Eric


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## jetstang (Nov 5, 2008)

Eric Animal said:


> Jet, There is another member on here from Niceville Fl......just sayin' Eric


Yeah, he's from ValP but claiming Niceville. Guess he got a hand me down goat, but it's in SC for now. I told him I would help him get it running when he gets it here.

Congrats g8ter, good stuff.


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## geeteeohguy (Feb 2, 2008)

Hey Inst, congrats. On the last video, my take is : the initial timing is a shade too advanced, and the carb mixture is a bit too rich. It could be your initial choke plate adjustment and fast idle cam on the carb.....not sure if it's warm or cold. It sounds much better mid-video after you tweak the mixture. and it warms up.... you appear to be tweaking the distributor..not sure if your setting the timing "by ear" or what....Anyway's, sounds HEALTHY and you need to be careful with the car, because it's a "Trouble Car"!!
(car that can get you and others into a LOT of trouble!!)


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## Instg8ter (Sep 28, 2010)

thanks Jet and GeeTee, that was cold start after putting air cleaner on for the first time I have the initial timing set with light at 18* with vacuum adv pulled and plugged . stays put when i plug vacuum back in. when i rev it to 2800 i am all in on vacuum at around 38* (need to get a reference mark on my balancer) thing is when i bring it back down after revving the initial seems to jump up a few degrees i notice my dist has what seems like a lot of thrust play so i am going to get a shim kit and get it to around .010. would excessive play make the distributor gear squeel like you hear at cold start, almost sounds like thats where its coming from, goes away after a few seconds. plugs still are showing dry black a bit.


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## geeteeohguy (Feb 2, 2008)

18 degrees BTDC is waaay too much initial. The spark plug is firing while the piston is on it's way UP the bore, so it's fighting itself: The explosion is trying to force the piston back down, while it's on its way up on COMPRESSION stroke. That's why it's such a bear to crank over. I would run no more than 10 or 12 degrees initial. If the timing stays put when you connect the line again, you either have it hooked up to ported vacuum or the advance can is bad. Pontiac originally ran these units on manifold vacuum, but lots of guys use ported.....depends on the combo. I run mine on manifold vacuum, and they run cooler and have better throttle response. Your total advance is fine. Also, check the weights and springs on the centrifugal advance.....I was screwing around with the '65's a couple of weeks back, and the thing was frozen!!! Did about ten minutes of maintainence, and man, what a difference. Remember, too much timing kills your top end and can kill your engine.


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## Eric Animal (Oct 28, 2007)

:agree....the book says 6*BTDC........


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## virginiavenom (Feb 20, 2011)

:lol:


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## Instg8ter (Sep 28, 2010)

well tomorrow will be another milestone, i will be Putting on the Tempests new warpaint, trailered it to the booth today and did all my masking. will be able to get at it around one. the booth is a nice new full downdraft and all top notch equipment (i will take some pics of the school shop). Hoping to get all 6 coats on but the later start time (was hoping to get there at 8am) may require me to go back sunday and lay on a coat or two of clear, guess we'll see, but it WILL be painted this weekend, and begin getting re-assembled.....arty:


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## 66tempestGT (Nov 28, 2009)

you will have plenty of time to spray it. i dont know what the temp is there or if the booth is heated but dont stop once you start. going back even 2 hours later is asking for trouble. good luck with it, looking for pics.


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## Instg8ter (Sep 28, 2010)

yep thats my thoughts he said i could work until 9 so i will probably just bust it out and leave it in the booth over night. Just need to blow it off wipe it down with degreaser and tack it and i am ready to spray yes it is heated, supposed to be mid 70's here and i picked up both med and slow activator just in case, after all it is michigan could just as easily be 40*. will post some pics as soon as i get home, forgot my camera today...duuuuhhhh.


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## geeteeohguy (Feb 2, 2008)

Here's wishing both you and Bear no bugs, dust, runs, or fisheyes. I will be thinking positive thoughts for the both of you. I think it's a pretty big deal to paint your own car, personally. It's a ton of work and it's VISIBLE. It takes courage, talent, and drive. I think mechanical work is MUCH less stressful!!!!


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## 400fitz (Jul 7, 2010)

Sorry been out of the loop for awhile. Enjoy that new booth!! I am sure modern equip is awesome. Things are really coming together.Motor alive!!!!!!Now paint! Nice way to enjoy Memorial Day weekend. Lots of work to be proud of to come to this point.


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## Instg8ter (Sep 28, 2010)

*right after final coat..*

well here it is, went relatively smoothly had one sag on the first coat of base that i had to sand out and re-hit but once i got the feel for it the other 6 coats went down nicely, plenty of clear on it (4 coats) to cut and buff, i am whipped was on it for 8 hrs straight to get it done.






































arty:arty:arty:arty:arty:arty:


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## Instg8ter (Sep 28, 2010)

more.....


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## OrbitOrange (Jul 5, 2010)

Looks awesome. Love the color. Congrats!


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## Instg8ter (Sep 28, 2010)

thanks Orbit, i like the color too, modern take on the classic barrier blue, looks lighter in full sunlight. will have it back at the shop tomorrow unmasked and start cut and buff, have a few runs on the final clear coat as i loaded it on but nothing that can't be wet sanded out, for a first full car think it came out good. Thats a lot of car to paint, there is nearly 5 gallons of base and clear on it.


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## 66tempestGT (Nov 28, 2009)

arty:arty:arty::cheers


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## Instg8ter (Sep 28, 2010)

thanks Shane, appreciate all your help and suggestions along the way, what would you recomend for cut and buff while i have you here....


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## ALKYGTO (Mar 29, 2010)

Wow, love that color. 66 and 67 just look amazing in blue if you ask me. :cool

I see you're still running the flat hood, cool.


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## Eric Animal (Oct 28, 2007)

Very Impressive Brian! :cheers


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## Instg8ter (Sep 28, 2010)

Thanks guys now i know why a good body and paint job can cost 6-10k, few hundred hours labor and it all rests on 7 hrs in the booth, but i am very pleased at the results and am in it to the tune of around 1200.00 with booth rental and he broke out a brand new 600.00 Iwata gun for me to use with quick change cups able to spray upside down. Nerves at first was the worst thing, but once i got a flow going just followed my pattern and worked like a machine not looking back.

E, have my dash all in i will take a shot when i get door panels and carpet in.....stands out but looks "right" if that makes sense. Thanks for the help

heres a few at the shop in the sunlight






































arty:arty:arty:arty:arty:


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## BearGFR (Aug 25, 2008)

Wow!!!!!!!!  

Man, that thing just POPS!!

You done GOOOOOOOD! :cheers


...nearly blinded me :cool and that was just from looking at the photos on the monitor.

I'm in the process of hanging all the sheet metal back on mine, just finished watching Kevin's "Paint Your Own Car" DVD's again for the umpteenth time -- every time I always learn something new.

Makes me wish I could find a booth to rent around here, but I'm hoping that since I'm going to color-sand and buff it anyway ::gulp:: that will deal with whatever trash winds up in it.

...good job, sir.

Bear


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## Instg8ter (Sep 28, 2010)

thanks bear, you'll do fine, your like me in that you put yourself outside your comfort zone only after research and advice from those who have the experience, the hard part (bodywork) is done. all i can say is get the gun dialed in on a test panel before you start squirting...had a horrid sag coming off the first half of the roof before finding out the regulator on one side was set a bit different than the other, every time i switched sides had to remember to tweak it back to 19 psi at the gun. once you get your rythme (and the gun flowling properly) it will fly by, roof is hardest, have a solid stool handy and put some tape around your beltline so the suit does not drag in the paint when you reach for mid point. i have some cut and buff to do also, i loaded the last coat of clear on with a slow activator and have 4-5 small runs but its nothing a razor will not fix before wet sanding....all in all i am very pleased, hardest thing was the nerves and anxiety especially spraying a metallic for my first try. 3 coats base 2 + gallons, 4 coats of clear 2.5 gallons.


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## Claymation19 (Jun 27, 2010)

ALKYGTO said:


> Wow, love that color. 66 and 67 just look amazing in blue if you ask me. :cool
> 
> I see you're still running the flat hood, cool.



Alky - can't agree more about those '66s in blue :rofl:


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## Instg8ter (Sep 28, 2010)

Alky i will probably get a GTO hood when i find a good deal on one mainly because my daughters boyfriend in his zeal to impress me did such a "good" job sandblasting the inside of my hood (guess i did not emphasize "only the supports" enough).... that he warped the sheet metal. cannot blame the kid for trying and the inside of the hood in gloss black epoxy looks wonderful but after two weeks blocking and re-blocking the offending hills and valleys i called it as good as it will get and i will always keep the original hood as every other part i have removed. This is no trailer queen, it will be driven when weather allows. Also some tiger striping in the metallic on the hood for a first shot at body and paint i am very happy with the outcome, the sides of the car are smoother than my wifes brand new car and when i buff them they will be like glass.


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## Instg8ter (Sep 28, 2010)

got everything back in the interior except for headliner and seats today, may tackle headliner after mosquito's go away


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## jetstang (Nov 5, 2008)

8ter, looks incredible! You have plenty of meat to sand and buff, 5 gallons?? Car looks great, really nice color, and fantastic for your first paint job, or any paint job.. All paint jobs get trash in them that need to be fixed.. :cheers
Interior looks great, way better than the blue carpet..


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## Instg8ter (Sep 28, 2010)

thanks Jet...yeah the astro turf was just in there to keep the floor soundproofing from getting tore up while i worked on it headliner will be buttoned up today, hope to get insurance and plates on it by the end of the week. heres a walk around


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## BearGFR (Aug 25, 2008)

Instg8ter said:


> ...all in all i am very pleased, hardest thing was the nerves and anxiety especially spraying a metallic for my first try. 3 coats base 2 + gallons, 4 coats of clear 2.5 gallons.


I got some practice over the weekend fixing a couple of small runs using the razor blade, sand, and buff method - it worked!

I'm stressing now over having enough material --- you said you used two gallons base and 2.5 gallons clear, right? Was that before or after mixing? For example... the base color I'll be using get's reduced 2:1 paint to reducer, so 1 gallon paint mixes out to actually be 1.5 gallons sprayable material. The clear mixes 1:1 with activator so a gallon of clear mixes out to be 2 gallons sprayable. I'm trying to figure out how much you actually used so I can make sure I have at least that much on hand.

Thanks,
Bear


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## Instg8ter (Sep 28, 2010)

Bear i got one gallon of base that was 1:1.5 so it mixed too 2.5 gallons, did my inner trunk and jambs and test spray with around 1/2 gallon of that and used every last drop in the booth to get 3 coats on the body and the clear i had 2 gallons mixed 4:1 so 2.5 gallons and i used all to get 4 coats so around 80 oz per coat i would say. hope that helps i know i had to run out and do a quick mix on the first coat of base because i only mixed 64 oz..

heres another method that looks interesting


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## 66tempestGT (Nov 28, 2009)

never seen that. i think i will stick to the razor blade.


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## Instg8ter (Sep 28, 2010)

i will try the razor blade on the nose before i tackle a fender, grabbed my compound and wet paper today....just ran across that vid, almost like a reverse guide coat i guess.


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## BearGFR (Aug 25, 2008)

Kevin demos it on the Paintuncation videos. It's pretty slick. First step is to drag a single-edge blade across some 1000 grit paper in one direction only a few times, creating a small burr on the edge of the blade. Next you bend the blade a little, warping it into a very gentle U-shape - the open side of the U pointing away from the side where you made the burr. Doing this helps keep the corners of the blade up a little so they won't dig into the surface. Then you drag the blade across the top of the run (if you're dragging the blade towards you, then the "burr" edge is facing you and the open part of the slight "U" is facing away from you) to gradually scrape the run down until it's level with the area around it. Go slow and when the ridge is gone, quit. Then you wet-sand with the 1000, then 1500, then 2000 to take out all the scrape marks - then go over it with the 3 steps of rubbing/buffing/glazing compound to bring the gloss back.

Just take your time and don't get in a hurry. It worked great for me.

Bear


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## jetstang (Nov 5, 2008)

Whatever/however you fix the runs, NEVER go through the clear coat, especially if you have metallic paint. Mess up the Metallic and you will be reshooting the entire panel, trust me. 
The bondo treatment looks good, but I would be scared of a chemical reaction with my new paint as the bondo adheres to the paint. The concept is really good, as the run will show through the bondo, remove all the bondo and the run should be gone and the paint is protected.


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## Instg8ter (Sep 28, 2010)

all the runs (5) were on my final coat of clear which was loaded on, not really any orange peel, should sand smooth with 1500. i will do top down to get a feel for it before i tackle the fenders. None of the runs are near body lines or edges, man this thing puts the biggest grin on my face every time i open the shop door now, going to get plates and road insurance tomorrow still need to button a few mechanical things up but it should be ready next week for some driving....

arty:arty:arty:arty:arty:


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## jetstang (Nov 5, 2008)

Congrats again!!
I used to paint alot before I found a paint shop that did it reasonable. There is nothing better than drinking a beer watching paint dry, well, almost nothing.. I can still paint, just have to restart.
Hope you can geter done for some long awaited cruising. I really like the color, nice blue!


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## Instg8ter (Sep 28, 2010)

thanks Jet, may be doing some more painting, the harley mechanic across the street has a few guys that need their bikes done over the winter, may grab a Wren airbrush and get back into doing some artistic stuff. have the Tempest cut and buffed to the back of the doors knocked 3 of the big sags down (with the spot putty method), came out perfect, not a sign of ghost, two more to go. man this clear is hard as a rock already, have to lean into it to get the 1500 to start cutting wish i would have gotten on it last weekend like i planned. should have it all polished out tomorrow and be able to start putting the shiny stuff back on. also ordered my plate today "NADAGTO" which brings me to my next question. I shaved all the emblem side holes while doing body and will be putting the Lemans 4' fluted "pontiac" trim on the tailpanel along with the crescent Tempest taillights. I have two sets of the Tempest Custom quarter trim, one filled with black and one with the original silver and the 326 tags with black and red should i put the Tempest and 326 tags back on, not like anyone will mistake the 463 for one but just for the look or just leave it badged as a PONTIAC. Also i will be putting the GTO grilles in with The "pontiac" badge. Hell no one knows what a Tempest is....have to tell them it's like a GTO.


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## Instg8ter (Sep 28, 2010)

got the grilles in (one scratch under drivers side grrrrr) but not in view. and the nose badge and headlight bezels....a few pics before bed










this side had two 4" sags with runs as the fender goes down vertical front and back


















1966 Tempest pictures by instg8ter - Photobucket

Brian


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## jetstang (Nov 5, 2008)

It would be funny to still have the 326 badges on the car, as the motor looks the same. Tell them it's just cammed up and blow their doors off.. Leave them scratching their heads wondering what happened. The Tempest emblems would be cool. You are right, nobody is going to know what it is anyway. I wanted to put the tag "TEMPTED" on my old Tempest.


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## Instg8ter (Sep 28, 2010)

tried TEMPTED, TEMPTME, TEMPEST ...all taken my next choice was MAYXLR8. First thing people ask "is that a GTO" with a puzzled look as they round the tailpanel, so i figured it would answer their question before they ask and its kinda tongue in cheek as i had a perfect base for a clone but decided long ago it would stay a lowly Tempest Post Car ..... i decided to put the emblems on Tempest in silver fill, custom with red fill and re-did the 326 badges in red fill and black checker flag (coolest of all engine badges). guess i should take the big sticker off the air cleaner that says high performance 455-4...lol


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## Instg8ter (Sep 28, 2010)

heres a few pics of the progress...


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## Instg8ter (Sep 28, 2010)

up til 3:00 this morning getting the Tempest back together, trim is all OEM original....heres some pics























































1966 Tempest pictures by instg8ter - Photobucket

Brian


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## jetstang (Nov 5, 2008)

You should open a restoration shop, your customers would love the fantastic progress you are making on the car. Are you not working or on vacation, as this seams like a full time job. Great job and looks great.


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## Instg8ter (Sep 28, 2010)

took a few half days this week, was trying to get it ready for a local show, but not quite there yet...have big cruise in two weeks, it will be ready. Thanks Jet, i have been plugging away late into the nights (morning). The badges and trim where all cleaned up when i removed them.


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## Instg8ter (Sep 28, 2010)

Actually Jet this is my favorite part of the build, seeing the car i have had in my mind for 30 years come to life, like when me and my father used to build models of these cars and all i could do is dream of having one. He has yet to see it in paint and should be out today, cannot wait for his reaction. when i was born he had a 65' GTO and my mother had just bought a 66' Lemans, always remember seeing them in the driveway when they would break out the super 8 movies on the projector and asking why they did'nt keep them (for me).


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## jetstang (Nov 5, 2008)

That's really cool. My parents had big Buicks and Oldsmobiles, and I don't want those cars.. Should be a shock to your dad, but I'm sure his car didn't look as good as yours. Will be nice to take him cruising soon. Car looks great!


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## FNG69 (Nov 15, 2009)

Man O Man Looking really Good Brian!!!!!!!!! Keep up the great work!!!!!!!!!!!...Les...:seeya


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## Instg8ter (Sep 28, 2010)

thanks Les, should be hitting the road today after i do the rear brakes...just wanted to make sure you got the check on that console, sorry for the delay work was kicking my ass for the last few months. I will post some pics tonight of the car complete...10 months start to finish. also need to figure out how to change my avatar.










http://s1098.photobucket.com/albums/g372/instg8ter/1966 Tempest/

Brian


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## russosborne (Dec 6, 2010)

Hey, I noticed you ran the cold air intake ducts more to the sides of the car in one of the pictures. Did you give up on running them to the headlights like the ford thunderbolt?
Still haven't gotten mine, PepBoys raised the price on theirs to about what everyone else is sellling them for, so it might be a while before I get mine. Since I am going with a fiberglass GTO front end and will have to fabricate the headlight stuff anyway, I still want to do mine the thunderbolt way. 
Russ


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## Instg8ter (Sep 28, 2010)

hey Russ, still debating how to finish them, they will go right to the back of the lower headlight (highbeam) bucket if you desire. i had mine picking up from behind the grill but the grilles when installed close off the opening. I am debating cutting holes in the firewall as i think i want to leave the lights in. other option is to hit the junk yard and find two late model air pickups with 4" round and run them behind the bumper slot.


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## stracener (Jul 27, 2010)

*Tempest Looks Awesome*

Great work Instig8tr. Your car looks great, it's inspiration for me and my son as we're rounding the turn on his '72! Just awesome.


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## Instg8ter (Sep 28, 2010)

Thanks Stacener, once the body work is done the fun part begins...putting your toy back together, hang in there and keep picturing it in it's final color, the body is slow and tedious (thats why it costs 2-6000) keep on it and it will be there before you know it. I have had this blue LeMans as my screen background for 10 months to give me a goal to shoot for and motivate me...










It's finally time to replace it with mine










1966 Tempest pictures by instg8ter - Photobucket

Brian


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## jetstang (Nov 5, 2008)

Only dif between yours and that one is color, lighting and photoshopping the picture to make everything pop.. Good job, you are there. And door handles, lol..


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## Instg8ter (Sep 28, 2010)

lol...them and the rocker trim are on now, will be taking it out this weekend for some photos after a final polish. just got done with final stereo install even was able to fabricate some actual glovebox space ...


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## Instg8ter (Sep 28, 2010)

heres stereo test, the speaker box was just laying in the back part of the trunk and not mounted up under the package tray yet. 4 channels at 100watts each and separate sub amp at 240 watts JBL "GTO" speakers two way 4x6 in kick panel vents 6x9's and 8" sub in package tray box. Kenwood head unit with Clarion 7-band EQ with separate sub channel, and master volume control....arty:arty:arty:arty:


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## Instg8ter (Sep 28, 2010)

got the Tempest all buffed and trimmed, installed the restored Fisher Body Seatbelts and all new softseal trim, have felts next weekend. Also installed drag bags in rear to stiffen up the stock springs a bit and also raise for a little forward rake.























































1966 Tempest pictures by instg8ter - Photobucket

Brian


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## Instg8ter (Sep 28, 2010)

still need to dye seatbelts more black...thinking hair dye?? Lock knobs are even original...


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## ALKYGTO (Mar 29, 2010)

Your dash came out pretty sweet. :cheers

How many miles have you put on it so far?


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## Instg8ter (Sep 28, 2010)

thanks Alky have to strap up that stereo wire....lol, always see something that needs to be done in pictures. i have a bit over 80 miles on it working out the bugs.


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## jetstang (Nov 5, 2008)

80 miles, congrats, what is the MPG, 8 or 10?? Half tank of gas, but fun when you hit the go pedal! Car looks great. How did the softseal gaskets do? I bought them and people criticized on fit, I haven't installed mine yet. Also still have to buy the window fuzzies, where did you get yours at?


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## Instg8ter (Sep 28, 2010)

have not figured mileage yet...still working out carb jetting on the edelbrock.
I was happy with the fit, on doors have to put rear top pin in first and work under of course mine is a post so they are different from the hard top, got it lined up then used smallest bondo spreader to squeeze it in channel. Trunk was forced up a bit but after a day in the sun it is pressing down. got the felts from ames have to pop door panels next weekend to do them.


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## BearGFR (Aug 25, 2008)

Just gorgeous!!! :cheers

You were talking about motivation from that other photo, well I'll tell you - YOU are motivation for me right now. I keep imagining the huge grin on your face every time you look at yours, and it getting wider every time you turn the key and hear it fire. :cool

Bet it feels great...

You done good, sir

Bear


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## Instg8ter (Sep 28, 2010)

Bear your on the downhill run...as soon as i saw it in paint I got my second wind, the tediousness of the bodywork can wear you down as it seems like you are in a perpetual state of primer and filler. Glad i can be a motivation to you, our builds have been on a parallel course for the past ten months and i know you have been dreaming of completing yours for 20 years....as i have been dreaming of having one for the last 30. Every day when i walk through the shop in the morning i just look at it and think how the hell did i do all that, guess it just shows if you set your mind to something its amazing what you can learn how to do. Now get that thing buffed and get'r on the road so you can make up for the 20 years shes been sitting dormant.


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## BearGFR (Aug 25, 2008)

It's about to sit for another couple of weeks whilst I'm off traipsing through the mountains on a back packing trek. I almost wish I could stay home and work on it instead though... Last night I think I figured out what has been causing the occasional pigtails I've been getting. I think I was running the sander "too fast" and it was causing the edges of the disc to flake off just a tiny bit. I experimented a little last night on a fender, slowing the orbit speed down quite a bit, and the flaking stopped - no pigtails that I could see at least, and it didn't seem to slow down the cutting any.

Bear


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