# Tick master cylinder



## motoristx (Apr 27, 2010)

I just installed my tick-performance master cylinder! 

all I have to say is wow! I can shift however I want, and at any RPM! I haven't had any slippages at all.

I thought I'd need a new clutch, but I installed this as a last ditch effort to save me from breaking it apart again. It is a bit of a pain to install, but well worth the money. adjusting it once installed is a breeze too.

It's got a huge 7/8 inch cylinder in it, I think stock is like 1/2 inch something. It is a little harder to push in, and it does engage a little bit higher then stock. I've had it all weekend and I've pretty much used to it by now. 

This is a Must have if your having any kind of shifting problems


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## LS2 MN6 (Jul 14, 2010)

I'm going to do this next summer (the suspension ate all my cash for this summer)

Got pics? or tips?


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## cmack111 (Feb 25, 2011)

I have been thinking about doing this. I had another guy on here tell me that it's total waist. But, now i'm not sure. Did it really make that big of a difference?

I am having trouble with grinding sometimes and the gears can be a little tough to get into sometimes. No slippage or anything like that. 

Same type of problems that you were having?


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## Falco21 (May 11, 2010)

Replacing the Master Cylinder isn't a total waste. What I was saying in the other thread is that it is not a necessity and not something you should spend your money on if your on a budget. Of course, anything you replace performance wise with an after market part is going to be beneficial. Many people replace it because it does have a much better feel to it when replaced. If you want to spend the $300 or so on the new master, then by all means go for it, but it is not something that needs to be looked into for replacing


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## cmack111 (Feb 25, 2011)

Falco21 said:


> Replacing the Master Cylinder isn't a total waste. What I was saying in the other thread is that it is not a necessity and not something you should spend your money on if your on a budget. Of course, anything you replace performance wise with an after market part is going to be beneficial. Many people replace it because it does have a much better feel to it when replaced. If you want to spend the $300 or so on the new master, then by all means go for it, but it is not something that needs to be looked into for replacing



I hear what your sayin. I thought that you meant it was just a total waist. The thing is that right now I just feel that my clutch isn't completely disengaging. It really bothers me.


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## AlaGreyGoat (Jul 6, 2006)

The Tick is also adjustable. You can set your release point
where you want it.

Larry


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## motoristx (Apr 27, 2010)

ok here's the deal! I have an LS7 clutch, and I'm figuring 600 HP at the Flywheel +or- a few.

the Pressure plate wanted to hold on at High RPMs (5500+) in all gears but first. I figured out my problem was 2 fold. one, I'm using a stock LS7 clutch and pressure plate. 2nd, when my clutch gets hot, I can't fully disengage the clutch due to fluid heating up, air in lines, small lines, etc.etc....

all i did this time was install the tick performance master cylinder, and use the line they supplied, and pow! no more shifting problems. and I've beat the hell out of my clutch since then cause I wanted a very good feel for my shift point under heavy shifting. I still grab hard enough to spin in 3rd.

Tick Performance Adjustable Clutch Master Cylinder Kit FAQ can answer a few questions. 

basically the install is a pain in the butt, only cause its so tight. I mean look, can you ever see your stock cylinder? here's what your going to look forward to doing:

follow the instructions, don't take my word for it, this is just a quick run down
1. break loose the fitting line from the master cylinder to the slave and drain the fluid
2. Unbolt your brake booster, be sure to get the brackets on the front the hold up the reservoir
3. pop off the connecting rod to you clutch peddle and unbolt the stock clutch master cylinder
4. jiggle the brake booster enough to get the stock master cylinder out.
5. throw away all the old hardware used with the stock master cylinder... (bolts, hose, clamps, lines.) all but the reservoir, you will reuse the stock reservoir!
6. bolt a plate up to the fire wall using new hardware that is supplied
7. slide the new master cylinder onto the plate that was supplied and use the nuts supplied to tighten it down. your going to need to use some fancy wobblers for this! its tight! 
8. connect the supplied line (-6n stainless braided), it has a fitting to fit the stock line coming out of the slave... 
9. slip the cap/lower reservoir over the top of the master cylinder, there is an o-ring i'd lube it up a little. then tighten the clamp. attach the hose to the stock reservoir.
10. bolt up the brake booster, and all the brackets that hold up the reservoir.
11. hook up the master cylinder to the clutch peddle, pay close attention to the distance. there is a switch under there that will not let the car start if it's not pushed in... i had to fabricate something for this...(shorted it out with a paper clip) set it kinda low at first, this way you don't accidentally dmg your pressure plate by pushing it in too far.
12. poor your fluid in the reservoir, and when you get a stream out of the bottom, hook it up to the trans, (thats my way anyways)
13 bleed the system, adjust it to be slightly higher then it was before.

i don't think i missed anything, .. again, there are instructions you should be following

your going to notice it is harder to push the clutch in now, you'll get use to it. and the friction point will be high off the floor then it used to.


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## motoristx (Apr 27, 2010)

cmack111 said:


> I have been thinking about doing this. I had another guy on here tell me that it's total waist. But, now i'm not sure. Did it really make that big of a difference?
> 
> I am having trouble with grinding sometimes and the gears can be a little tough to get into sometimes. No slippage or anything like that.
> 
> Same type of problems that you were having?




yes, a lot of the same issues. sometimes I'd be standing still and just barely moving at a stop sign or something and I'd grind my gears trying to get it into first. Keep in mind, these things are a pain to bleed to, and I've bled and bled mine thinking I had air in the lines. Sometimes, I couldn't get it into reverse unless I put it into first, then second, then in reverse. I was getting very upset at times, and the more upset I got the more she would want to fight me when I put her in gear.


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## SOCALGOAT (Sep 27, 2006)

I've seen this kit and the other kit made by a local member and the tick is hideous compared to that kit. It's been known to damage clutch systems too.


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## [email protected] (Aug 31, 2011)

SOCALGOAT said:


> I've seen this kit and the other kit made by a local member and the tick is hideous compared to that kit. It's been known to damage clutch systems too.


Hideous?










I guess everybody is entitled to their own opinion.

Our kit has not been known to damage clutch systems at all. When installed and adjusted using our instructions, there is 0% chance of damage to ANY component - in fact, just the opposite: it will make your clutch and transmission both last longer as the clutch fully disengages.


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