# Horns Won't Shut Off!



## TonysGoat (May 16, 2015)

Hi, 

I am a new member but have been reading threads on here for a while, love the site! I have a 1967 GTO that I restored and am finishing up the last few tweaks, one of which is the horns.

I bought a new horn relay from Ames because prior testing showed it was bad. The problem now is once I hook everything up and connect the battery, the horns come on and won't shut off! Neighbors are thrilled with my testing  

What could cause this?

Thanks, 

Anthony


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## pjw1967 (Mar 10, 2014)

Don't have silver bullet but have some suggestions. First, disconnect the wires from the horns themselves. Then attach a 6-12 v circuit tester to the driver side wire so you can see it.  It should light up right away. That'll keep the neighbors happy. Next pop off the center cap of the steering wheel. Been a while but I think you'll find a screws holding the chrome arms under the cap. Remove the screws and the arms. This should expose the horn buttons. Watch the circuit light. If it goes out while you're messing with buttons, then the button(s) are stuck. If the buttons don't seem to be the problem, then there is a small possibility the relay was bad out of the box. Happened to me a while back with a voltage regulator. Pull the wire harness plug out of the relay and see if the light goes out. If it doesn't you have a massive short somewhere. Look at the wire harness plug. Could be corroded after 48 years. Spray some electrical cleaner in it. I use a wooden nail file trimmed to a point to get into these connectors to clean up the surface of the metal. In fact I am gonna look at my horn buttons today. Opposite problem. Last time I pressed one I don't think the horn beeped. Good luck.


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## TonysGoat (May 16, 2015)

Thanks for the tips. I took the chrome spokes off of the steering wheel and the wiring all looked good (it is a newly reconditioned standard deluxe wheel). I had another horn relay handy so put that on and the same thing happened, the test light was on the whole time so I don't think the problem has anything to do with the horn relay. 

I checked the harness as well, but it is a new engine harness and I didn't see any open or exposed wires. 

Any ideas on what else I can do to further debug this? Could this be a grounding issue?


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## pjw1967 (Mar 10, 2014)

A short is an unwanted ground. Too bad it's not a computer. We could go back to a restore point. So if the light stayed on even after being unplugged from the relay then the line to the horn is hot for some other reason. Put the new relay back on and make sure the test light is lit. Then pull the fuse for the horn to see it the light goes out. If it does then something might be crossed in the new engine harness. If the light stays lit after you pull the fuse put it back and then pull each of the other fuses till it goes out. That'll isolate which circuit is Feeding the horns that shouldn't be. I can look at the shop wiring diagram later today. Keep us posted.


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## 05GTO (Oct 6, 2004)

Tony,

I don't have the prints for 67 but I believe 66 and 67 are the same wiring,
the horn relay has 3 connections, the 1st connection is wired to the un-fused 12 volt splice point which is located in the wiring bundle above the manifold. The second connection goes to the horn button, the horn button supplies a ground (negative) which energizes the relay and causes the relay to provide 12 volts to the third connection which go to your horns.

I would suggest taking a volt/ohm meter and test the 2nd connection of the horn relay plug, if you show a direct short to the car's body then you have a short to ground in the wire going to the horn button. If the wire is not shorted then press the horn button and see if the meter will then show a short.

Try this and post your results,


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## TonysGoat (May 16, 2015)

Thanks for the tips, the saga continues...

Whenever I plug in EITHER relay I have, the test light stays on the whole time. When I pull the steering wheel off, the test light goes out. As soon as I put the steering wheel back on and the cancel cam makes contact, I hear the relay click and the test light goes on and stays on. 

Could it be that I am missing a piece in the steering wheel? The PO had a grant steering wheel on it that I removed in favor of a standard deluxe. It is possible that I missed a component while installing or put something on incorrectly?


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## 05GTO (Oct 6, 2004)

Can you post a picture of the top of the column and the bottom of the factory steering wheel? I suspect you are missing a bushing or a spring.


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## TonysGoat (May 16, 2015)

Attached are some pics, I can provide others if you think they would help.


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## 05GTO (Oct 6, 2004)

See if these images are any help;


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## Pinion head (Jan 3, 2015)

Unlike many later steeing wheels/Saginaw columns that have a spring loaded contact at (8), and the horn circut is completed by pushing the center cap, the '67 and '68 deluxe wheels would only have horn contacts under the buttons on the spokes of the steering wheel. The circuit has to be completed under one of those buttons for the horn to go off like it is.


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## TonysGoat (May 16, 2015)

I am pretty sure the issue is between the horn relay and steering column wiring, I need to spend more time with a test light. 


As for the spring (8), yes agreed, from what I can see the spring keeps me from over tightening the steering wheel and crushing the back of it.


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## TonysGoat (May 16, 2015)

I found the issue. I mentioned earlier that I bought a new wheel and I assumed the builder installed everything correctly. Not the case.

I noticed that when pressing the horn buttons one of them had resistance, the other not as much. After taking them apart I can see that 2 small rubber bumpers/stops were missing from behind one of the horn buttons. Without these bumpers / stops, there is constant contact which is why the horns (or test light) would come on as soon as I bolted down the steering wheel. 

Attached is the pic of the issue.


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