# Finally, working on the car again



## Too Many Projects (Nov 15, 2008)

Refresher: I had removed the rotten right cowl to frame mount last year and bought a replacement in OK. I cut the mount off the replacement section of floor today so I can attach it with screws to hold the body on the roto.




Both the mounting bolts were rusted off on the left side but the mount is solid. I had to cut out the rotten toe board to get access to the mount nuts from inside. 



I cleaned it up as best I could and sprayed a lot of Eastwoods Rust Converter all over in the mount. Once it dries, I can recage the new nuts and the front will be ready for the roto.
...:cool


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## 66tempestGT (Nov 28, 2009)

nasty! glad to see things coming together for you. :cheers


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## Mike_V (Mar 10, 2006)

I love project threads


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## Too Many Projects (Nov 15, 2008)

Mike_V said:


> I love project threads


Lots more to come. The entire floor from those mounts to the tail lights will be replaced.


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## Mike_V (Mar 10, 2006)

I can't even imagine how much work that's going to be. Way back when, in body shop class, I replaced a trunk pan and small section of floor - HATED IT.

Some people got it and some don't. But hey - this 'you work and I watch' is kind of nice :rofl:


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## geeteeohguy (Feb 2, 2008)

This is the hardest/worst part of the restoration. I do not have the skills,heart, or courage needed to undertake something of this magnitude. Give me a blown up engine or trans any day of the week!! On the upside, this '67 GTO is on the way back, and it's only UP from here! Nice going Mitch, and the photo's are greatly appreciated. A huge help to the hobby posting thresds like this!
Jeff


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## Bobbyg (Jul 22, 2009)

*Wow*

Looking Good !!

Love the pictures.

Glad to see this come together. Can't wait to get there myself.:cheers


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## Too Many Projects (Nov 15, 2008)

Made a serious leap of faith today and cut out the right door post..... 


Here's what it looks like on the inside....not much left of 5 layers of metal.


I gave up trying to get the outer rocker panel out of the cowl on the replacement piece. That sucker is welded to 3 braces inside the cowl. I would've had to drill ALL the spot welds out and completely dis-assemble it. The rocker is like new, so the new one will butt weld to it under the step plate. Not sure what I will do with the other side. It's in about the same condition and I didn't get a replacement cowl cutoff for it....
Here's the replacement mocked up for final fitting/trimming.


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## Rukee (Feb 8, 2007)

Actually your patch looks like it fits better then I expected it would.
Are the three upper hindge bolt heads tourched off?


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## Too Many Projects (Nov 15, 2008)

Rukee said:


> Actually your patch looks like it fits better then I expected it would.
> Are the three upper hinge bolt heads torched off?


No, the bolts are there, just a little hard to see with the lighting.
I should have it near perfect in another hour. The 2 punches sticking out of the hinge bolt plates are my reference points for alignment.


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## Mike_V (Mar 10, 2006)

Man, that really looks good.


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## Too Many Projects (Nov 15, 2008)

More progress; Final fit of the post


After another hour of sand blasting and rust converter treatment, all the weld seams are cleaned of paint and sprayed with copper weld thru primer. I clamped it in place and tacked it pretty well.


Test fit the door to make sure all the hinge bolts went in and the door lined up. It looks good to go....


Welding still needs some improvement and there's a lot to grind off but it's an integral part of the body now...


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## geeteeohguy (Feb 2, 2008)

I'm speechless.......what a great job!


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## 66tempestGT (Nov 28, 2009)

nice looking job. i like to use the weld thru primer on the backside of panels. places you cant get to after its all welded up. like pinchwelds that are sandwiched together. im sure you know mig welders are sensitive to contaminents. i like welding bare metal when i can, then etching primer when the grinding is done. looks like you are definitely saving one from the boneyard.


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## Eric Animal (Oct 28, 2007)

Looks good Mitch! i can't wait till mine gets on the roto!!! :cheers


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## Jstreet (Mar 9, 2009)

Very nice. Feels good to take your time and have the parts fit together just right for welding. It really makes laying down that nice bead even more satisfying when you know the piece you just fitted up is in right and in to stay. Love that feeling!:cheers


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## Too Many Projects (Nov 15, 2008)

I've spent more time chasing parts and working on the roto than the car lately but I'm still plugging along. The roto had extension arms bolted in place for a Firebird, so I welded nuts over the holes to use pinch bolts and made them adjustable. There weren't any side braces on the main T post either and I wasn't comfortable with that, so I had a set cut and welded them in. Also changed out the tiny 2" casters for the 5" I bought.





My Miller MiG is so easy to use....this is a vertical up weld.


Wednesday, I drove 155 miles rt for a left kick panel cut-off. Here's what I have now.


Replacement I got yesterday.


I made door opening braces too but forgot to get a pic with them installed.


Braces installed.


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## Too Many Projects (Nov 15, 2008)

*No turning back now !!*

I got the front mounted on the one roto end that is right and lifted the body off the frame with my floor jacks.




Thought I took a pic of it right after rolling it out but apparently it didn't work. Here are all the joints where pieces of another frame(s) were grafted on. Unbelievable, the frame was made from 7 pieces !!!!!







After 15 minutes with the torch, it is reduced to manageable pieces to throw on the scrap pile outside.


I'll re-use the reinforced upper control arms and frame braces but the rest can find a new home.


Wow, I've never had a car sitting without a frame before. What madness compels people to do this stuff ???


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## 66tempestGT (Nov 28, 2009)

ive seen some crazy stuff done to old cars, but ive never seen a frame chopped up like that.


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## 68greengoat (Sep 15, 2005)

Man, I can't believe the amount of patience you have, Mitch.  It's awesome there's guys like you that can resurrect a goat from the dead. Keep up the great work!!


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## Mike_V (Mar 10, 2006)

Ton of progress. That car has had a really hard life, but I'm sure it will thank you when you're done saving it


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## Too Many Projects (Nov 15, 2008)

Mike_V said:


> Ton of progress. That car has had a really hard life, but I'm sure it will thank you when you're done saving it


Thanks. What's left of the original car might but that won't be much...


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## geeteeohguy (Feb 2, 2008)

Mitch, I sure with I could weld like you, but I can't. Living in CA, I never really needed to learn, I guess! Car is looking great, it is on the "going up" side of the scale now, not the "going down", and the more I see the original color, the more I like it on that car. It's going to be a very nice '67 in short order!!! Keep it up!


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## Rukee (Feb 8, 2007)

Did you say before you had a 1 piece floor going into this car? If so, we need pictures of it on it's way in! 

plz.


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## Too Many Projects (Nov 15, 2008)

Rukee said:


> Did you say before you had a 1 piece floor going into this car? If so, we need pictures of it on it's way in!
> 
> plz.


Yep, I'll be digging into that next week. I picked up the steel pieces I need to modify the rotisserie for the back today. The left kick panel, toe board and outer rocker will get done first and then the right outer rocker. If all goes well, I will then cut what's left of the floor out. Here's the new one, waiting...


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## 66tempestGT (Nov 28, 2009)

i just noticed the frame in this pic, i thought the rear was bad!


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## Too Many Projects (Nov 15, 2008)

The whole front section broke off after I removed the fenders. It looks like a Camaro sub frame.


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## 66tempestGT (Nov 28, 2009)

was it sectioned there too, or just rotten?


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## Too Many Projects (Nov 15, 2008)

It was completely rusted off with just a couple sheet metal patches and a strap holding it together. The fenders were the main support. Mind you, people had driven this car in this condition for some time. All these "repairs" showed much use and road grime when I got the car......


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## Too Many Projects (Nov 15, 2008)

OK I got more steel Saturday for the arms and center support. Spent 3 hours today fabricating the arms and extending the center bars. Another 30-40 minutes of adjusting we have an airborne car !!!




Going turtle...........wow, turn a 43 year old car upside down and all the crap that falls out of every crevice.....


Started removing the right rocker panels....


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## geeteeohguy (Feb 2, 2008)

My jaw has been on the floor since you cut the door jamb in half. Holy [email protected]@P!!!!


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## Too Many Projects (Nov 15, 2008)

geeteeohguy said:


> My jaw has been on the floor since you cut the door jamb in half. Holy [email protected]@P!!!!


Mine too, Jeff....:lol: I can't believe I'm doing this. The only times I have ever cut a car up like this was to scrap them. I've never rebuilt one and it was scary to make the first cut but it has grown on me now and I'm enjoying it. It will be a miracle if it all lines back up and goes on the frame square.... I'll be putting the flange tool and cleco's I got from Randy to use tomorrow.
There's gonna be a delay after that. I've had severe tunnel syndrome in my wrists for many years. I had the left wrist slit and my elbow sliced open for 7 inches 3 years ago for ulnar transposition and tunnel syndrome release. My right hand has been waking me up at night for the past few months from the pain. My DR. said I need the tunnel release ASAP or risk permanent nerve damage, so I will be getting endoscopic surgery on Thursday morning. He said I should be able to use it lightly after a couple weeks, unlike the left side that had a 1" slit that took 3 months to heal and almost a year to not feel pain while driving.


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## Mike_V (Mar 10, 2006)

^^ best of luck with that.


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## Too Many Projects (Nov 15, 2008)

Mike_V said:


> ^^ best of luck with that.


Thanks, I'm not looking forward to the recovery.


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## ppurfield001 (Jan 21, 2008)

Too Many Projects said:


> Thanks, I'm not looking forward to the recovery.




Good luck with the medical procedure. The project looks great so far. I sit at a desk for a living, so I am in awe of guys like you who "know how to use their hands."


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## Koppster (Jul 27, 2008)

Mitch

Not sure if you've been following this thread but you guys are both brave souls...

Dave's 65 GTO - PY Online Forums

Rickster


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## Too Many Projects (Nov 15, 2008)

Koppster said:


> Mitch
> 
> Not sure if you've been following this thread but you guys are both brave souls...
> 
> ...


Thanks for the link, Rick, I wasn't aware of it. He has his hands full with the dash/a-pillars/roof on that one. The rest is actually in better shape than mine. The rockers and floor braces are amazingly intact for the way the rest looks.


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## injn37 (Nov 16, 2008)

Mitch,
Notice the glass still in the car. You might want to remove it is you are going to re-use it before you start "hammering" all ovet the body. It can have a tendency to crack from the stresses during rotation, and also, welding spatter will pit the glass.

Just my 2 cent! Been there, done that, don't want you to repeat it! 


rich ...... from Aruba ( sorry , had to throw that in)!


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## Too Many Projects (Nov 15, 2008)

Aruba Rich,.....:lol:..... I rolled the quarter windows down some so they are "floating' on the tracks only. I'm afraid to try to remove the windshield as it's glued level with the pinchweld. That is probably what saved the window channel and top of dash from rotting out like so many I see. The rear window should/needs to come out for metal replacement but I've put it off. Parts can get lost in this mess pretty quickly and glass is especially susceptible to breakage laying around here.
Good point about weld spatter. I'll try to remember to protect any that stays in.


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## injn37 (Nov 16, 2008)

Mitch, One more thing I forgot to mention, on the floor section. When I did mine, as all the floor braces are loose, I was petrified as to getting all the body mount locations correct, as there are what 12 locations. I made a sketch of the frame and measured all the locations to each other and noted them on the sketch. Measure front to back, side to side and diagonal, from every hole to every hole. Note the dimensions on your sketch. Takes time, but worth it. The restoration manual and the chassis book both give dims, but when you measure the frame, you will find that some of the numbers in the book, may not be what your frame actually measures. Then using either the front or rear holes in the body for your reference locations you can then locate all of the loose cross braces fairly accurately. 
I am finally leaving paradise tomorrow,( although they are predicting another snow storm) and when I get back I will send off to you the 7/16 locating rods that I used to measure everything. They helped a lot, and I don't need them no more! Makes one person measuring pretty easy.
Taking time doing this procedure, the body dropped on the frame in perfect alignment.

Also, when I get back, I will look for my pictures of my floorectomy procedure!

May, I am going to miss this weather!!!!!!!

rich


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## Too Many Projects (Nov 15, 2008)

All the braces are welded to the full floor pan already. I hope they had a jig to align them ....

Got the rear axle and core support sand blasted yesterday.




In etch primer.


Sprayed it with Cast Grey paint.


I was attempting to raise the rear balance point today and the jack stand slipped out from under the support arm. it came crashing down and took me an hour with jacks and the forklift to get it back up again...


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## Too Many Projects (Nov 15, 2008)

I'm supposed to be exercising my right wrist and hand for range of motion and grip. What better way than holding plasma and welder torches ......:lol:
Finally got back to fitting the right outer rocker that that I started 10 days ago when the cutting wheel mistook my thumb for steel.
I was trying to flange the ends to fit inside and overlap weld them but with all the compound curves and bends it proved too difficult for my simple mind. I ended up cutting it off for butt welds. 




With the right side sturdy again, I started on the left rocker. I cut out a piece of the floor and inner rocker with the plasma for access. 


The inner cowl/kick panel and the heavy brace are supposed to come all the way to the bottom of the inner rocker. It is all completely rusted away.


Here I've cut away most of the rusted kick panel and brace to expose the outer rocker. I pealed away just the inner panel. The rocker is sandwiched between the outer cowl and kick panel. I don't need to use the grinder, cut off wheel or spot weld drill. The plasma cutter lets me slice off 1 layer at a time !! This is so cool...


Here the rocker is completely removed. The lower fender mount will get cut off too as it is rusted too thin to weld the new rocker to.


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## geeteeohguy (Feb 2, 2008)

Man, that thing makes surgical cuts. I think THAT was money well spent. I can not believe how rusty that car is. Out here, I've seen virtually rust free cars crushed that needed a quarter panel or a front clip and new frame. What a difference a few states and a few years make! Keep it up, it's coming along!!!


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## Bobbyg (Jul 22, 2009)

Love the pictures. You are doing some fine work!!

When can I bring you my car? :lol:



Bobby


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## Mike_V (Mar 10, 2006)

Dang, looking really great.


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## injn37 (Nov 16, 2008)

Mitch,
It is starting to come together, but don't over do it. Let the wrist heal!!! You don't want to set your body or the goat body back because of overworking the the repair job (wrist)!
Oh, even though the braces are welded in ( I wish mine were!) I sent out the alignment pins to you before I read this thread. Put them in your tool box for the next project.
Made a mistake on the size of the heater, it is a 400,000 btu monster!!! Expecting 10" of white stuff tonight. Ah, more working time on the goat!

Later,

rich:seeya:


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## Too Many Projects (Nov 15, 2008)

Haven't been in the shop since Friday except to put the plow on and clear the driveways today from the weekend snow. I had the sutures removed today and the doc was pleased to hear it wasn't causing any pain but told me to slow down too. The 3 of us went to the Mall of America for Valentine's yesterday and discovered Magiquest had opened shop there. We had been to the one in Myrtle Beach SC a few years ago and kept the wands. My son was off school today so we went back and did a 1 hour "quest". 

Rich, if the pins go in the body bolt locations, I'll still use them to align the floor. Once the left rocker and kick panel are rebuilt, I'll drop the floor on and tack it. Then I will build up the frame and test fit the body to make sure it all fits before welding it in for good. I will be working on it again tomorrow and hope to have the rocker and kick panel in.


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## Too Many Projects (Nov 15, 2008)

*More parts......more progress*

Over the last week I have been in communication with a fairly new member on here about a 66 GTO he decided was too far gone to restore. His had quarter skins that the po had tack welded on the car OVER the original quarters.... He graciously offered to remove them as carefully as possible and cut them down to a size that would ship UPS. He also had new trunk drops that hadn't been installed. He sold these parts for a VERY reasonable price. The shipping got stupid but I couldn't get it here any cheaper and the overall cost was still a FRACTION of buying new skins, paying for truck freight and cutting them up anyway.
I want to extend a HUGE Thank You to GTOblade for his time and expense to cut, pack and haul the box to a shipper, making the rebuilding of my wheel wells and lower quarters possible at a very affordable cost....:cool Thanks, Jeff....:cheers




I was rather stuck on whether to cut out the bad section of the left rocker or keep the new piece intact. The old one was rusted threw all the way at the rear too so I finally got up the nerve today to just remove the whole piece. This is a pic of all the different pieces that make up the inner/outer rockers and floor.



It was a lot more work but with the plasma, I just kept peeling away each layer until I got down to the inner and outer quarter panels.

It's a pretty messy process compared to drilling out all the spots welds but I think it went much quicker too. Definitely a LOT easier...


I couldn't resist clamping the new rocker in place to see how it fit and I am super happy that I removed the entire old one now. This is going to be much easier to fit and cleaner to weld than splicing in 2 pieces and butt welding.


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## Rukee (Feb 8, 2007)

Cool!!
is the one piece floor going in from the bottom?? Or will it go through the side windows and rest on top of the rockers?? kinda confused as to how your going to get it in the car.


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## Too Many Projects (Nov 15, 2008)

The floor pan comes up from the bottom and is welded to the outer rocker. Hopefully, I will finish the rocker and kick panels tomorrow and remove the rest of the old floor. I may be ready to drop the new floor in late Wed or early Thurs.


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## injn37 (Nov 16, 2008)

Mitch ,

Lookin' good!

Nice having that rotisserie isn't it?

You can work pretty much standing up! 
When I did my rockers ( both inner and outer) a friend, that is building a 32 Pontiac in Hotrod haven with me went and bought from Norther a Spot Welder. _ have been the only one using it so far, but what another toy to have in the tool box. It made short work of the rockers and the lower section of the rear quarters.

rich_


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## Too Many Projects (Nov 15, 2008)

Rich, I can't imagine anyone doing this without a roto but I'm sure it's been done in the past. I don't think I would've attempted it without one. Yes, it is nice to stand or sit on a stool while working on the underside....


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## Too Many Projects (Nov 15, 2008)

Wow, frustrating day. On initial mock up yesterday the rocker looked good but I knew it wasn't in place. I went out there today thinking I would spend an hour grinding off left over spotwelds and getting the body ready for the rocker. Boy was I wrong..... I couldn't get the front to fit in the cowl/kick panel worth a darn and there was a gap at the rear wheel opening. After screwing around for an hour trying to figure out how to close the gap, I realized the body was spread. The quarter window was a good 1/4" down from the weatherstrip. I tried pulling the bottom of the roto together and that helped a little but made the roto bind. Then I used a ratchet strap to pull the door jamb up with the roof. That closed the gap but pulled the quarter panel sideways and messed up the overall width. I finally pulled my head out and just turned the car over.....All the dims came back in line and I thought I was on my way. Wrong.....I still couldn't get the front to line up and compared the new rocker to the original on the other side door post. The new one lacked an important offset that accounted for the gap I was fighting. I got out the dreaded cut off blade and make a slice thru the rocker and gave it an offset. Finally, after 4 HOURS of this screwing around the damn thing fit... Then it was on to another hour of paint removal, hole drilling for plug welding and copper primer. I tacked it good while upside down and then rolled it over for final fit of the door jamb and welded it in. A this rate I'm doubting whether I will drop the floor in this week.


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## Rukee (Feb 8, 2007)

WoW! Intense!!


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## geeteeohguy (Feb 2, 2008)

Yeah, I can't believe it either. He sure is a heck of a fabricator, though. That stuff scares the [email protected] out of me. Hey Mitch, if you just leave it "as is", you'll have the LIGHTEST '67 hardtop out there! Also, you'll be able to kick in the Flintstone Peda-Power as well as your Quadra Power V8!!


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## Thumpin455 (Feb 17, 2010)

Definitely not normal Mitch... Its an exclusive club for sure.


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## 66tempestGT (Nov 28, 2009)

if it was easy women and children would be doing it! looking good. :cheers


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## Too Many Projects (Nov 15, 2008)

No pics today, I forgot to take the camera with to the shop. I had to run errands in the morning and was feeling a little hurried when I went out there at 12:30. 
Not a lot to see anyway. I spent 4 hours deciding on how to and cutting down the left kick panel/cowl to repair the rust. I move pretty slow and try to visualize it before I start cutting. After I got what I needed separated from the rest, I discovered the piece isn't as nice as I thought or wanted. I really wish I had gotten both sides of the car in OK last year but you know what they say; wish in one hand and [email protected]@p in the other and see which one fills up first. I spent a good amount of time cleaning it up in the blast cabinet too and soaking it in rust converter. I don't feel it will ever keep rusting or cause an issue down the road and it is FAR better than what I had, which wasn't much. I have it about 80% and will finish trimming to fit tomorrow and get some pics.


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## gtoblade (Jan 25, 2010)

Wow, Mitch! Thats some amazing work. Definitly more than most would even try! Hope the panels help! Now that I have the thread i will have to check in on your progress!


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## Thumpin455 (Feb 17, 2010)

I want your plasma cutter, just drop it off for me ok? I feel fortunate to have decent rockers on mine!

Do you ever feel like you are working on the Pit of Despair?


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## Too Many Projects (Nov 15, 2008)

Thumpin455 said:


> I want your plasma cutter, just drop it off for me ok? I feel fortunate to have decent rockers on mine!
> 
> Do you ever feel like you are working on the Pit of Despair?


That plasma cutter is the coolest tool I've gotten lately. I used it today to peel away 3 layers of panels for the left kick panel replacement. I'm still using the cut off wheel in a grinder for final fit and trimming but the plasma is very easy to use and control. Once the kick panel is in tomorrow, I'll use it to remove the rest of the floor.

To be honest, I was considering scrapping it but it doesn't have the typical dash/front window rot that most, like yours, does. That is the only thing that saved it. I wouldn't have started on it with that on top off what I'm already into.


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## Too Many Projects (Nov 15, 2008)

Just came in for a quick lunch and to leave you with a teaser pic....arty:


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## Rukee (Feb 8, 2007)

There's holes in that picture.:willy::willy:


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## Mike_V (Mar 10, 2006)

I can't wait to see the floor in and done.


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## Too Many Projects (Nov 15, 2008)

Where I left off yesterday. I cut off the lower fender mount from the cowl as it was junk too.


From the inside, ready for the patch.


Final test fit. I did make a few more mods before welding it in. 


The recess to the left of the vent hole was much lower than the patch. I spent an hour today cutting the patch down to match that recess and get an edge to weld to.


I marked where the internal braces were and was faced with drilling the holes for plug welding until I thought of the plasma. I would've spent at least a half hour drilling those holes. I blew them out in 5 minutes....:cool


FINALLY........done with the kick panels.



On to new territory....rough cut out the rest of the floor with the sawzall. Man did that vibration kill my right hand and wrist. That's when I came in for lunch and to let it settle down a little.


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## Too Many Projects (Nov 15, 2008)

I can only have 10 pics in a reply, so I'm back....
After lunch, I went in with the plasma and trimmed around the braces.


I had to cut out more of the toe panel to get solid metal for the patch I have for that. I cleaned all the old floor off the weld lip. I had to use the spot weld drill for a piece to replace the section missing. It was too rusty to leave.


Upside down, ready to test fit the floor.


So THAT'S what it's supposed to look like with a floor.....:rofl: It's really hard to get a good pic of shiny black.


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## Rukee (Feb 8, 2007)

:cheers


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## Bobbyg (Jul 22, 2009)

:agree:cheers

Great work!!


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## Thumpin455 (Feb 17, 2010)

Floors sure do feel nice when you get them in there, dont they?


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## geeteeohguy (Feb 2, 2008)

Man, oh Man. Mitch, I'm not a big ELO fan (girlfriend is, tho'), but I came up with a nickname for your GTO: "Mister Blue Sky". Blue sky is all I see when I'm looking in the trunk, interior, at the floors, etc!!! It's like walking into an elevator, and looking down and seeing clouds, sky, and hawks, soaring below youre feet. Weird. You're around the bend, now, and on the way back. The worst, nastiest, dirtiest, rustiest is GONE, surgically removed, and the GTO is being reborn. I am astounded at the integrity of the repairs you're making, and the cleanliness of the cuts the plasma makes. That car won't be just another patched together car, but one that has been restored properly and well. Sawzall for the floorpan?? How about a cut-off wheel? I've used my high rpm 90 degree small die cutter with a small cut-off wheel for floors before, and it cuts really well, except in radiused corners....Looking GREAT!!


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## Thumpin455 (Feb 17, 2010)

lol he has "Blue Sky" and I have "1000 points of light.." awesome! I dont like the cut off wheel for panels, takes forever and puts too much heat into them, hard to get into tight spots, etc. The sawzall works good if you dont care about the edge or straightness, like removing large hunks of metal and cutting through rusted out braces and stuff. I use a panel ripper on my air chisel for most stuff. A sabersaw seems to work good for some things with a fine metal blade in it, but after seeing what Mitch does with the plasma, that is the E ticket right there.


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## Too Many Projects (Nov 15, 2008)

I still use the cut off wheel for final shape and trimming but after I ground out part of my thumb, I'm not so keen on using it to cut out the whole floor. I would've used the plasma but the car is undercoated and it kept lighting the crap on fire...:lol:

Jeff, it looks a lot better with what I've replaced so far but there's no end in sight of the rust yet. The whole trunk floor and wheel wells almost fell out after I cut them loose from the rear seat brace.... Now when I turn the roto, it flops around like a rag doll....:willy:


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## gtoblade (Jan 25, 2010)

Mitch has got me shopping for a plasma cutter now! Damn its incredible what he has done! SO now I'll have the cutter ready for when I kidnap Mitch to work on my rust buckets!!!!!


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## Too Many Projects (Nov 15, 2008)

gtoblade said:


> Mitch has got me shopping for a plasma cutter now! Damn its incredible what he has done! SO now I'll have the cutter ready for when I kidnap Mitch to work on my rust buckets!!!!!


Thanks for the kind words. I noticed with the floor sitting in it that the right rocker isn't parallel with the world. I'm not feeling so incredible at the moment knowing I have to cut it loose and get it aligned on Monday....

Seeing what others are doing and "talking" with them on here, it's easy to forget we're hundreds, if not thousands, of miles apart. It would be great to have Geeteeohguy able to come here to help with his rear main seal replacement or to drive to your place with the plasma and cut the bejeepers out of your car for you.


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## injn37 (Nov 16, 2008)

Love the plasma, but for small accurate cuts I found a new toy and fairly cheap to boot! I picked up one of those air recip hack saws. Home D sells the blades, or you can use a hacksaw blade also. You can get into real tight spots and cut real neat!
Only issue is you have to wear ear protection ( as well as eye protection) as it is really noisy! But it has become my quick got to cut em up tool. Especially if cutting where you don't want sparks, and it is very fast cutting.

rich


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## geeteeohguy (Feb 2, 2008)

No doubt, the PC has made the world a much smaller place. It's a mixed blessing. I'm an "old fashioned" guy in that I would rather speak to you in person than email you. But The Internet has allowed people who would otherwise never meet or be aware of each other become good friends. I'll take it!!! It's a huge benefit, educational, and helpful in support and more. Mitch, don't think I haven't thought about a high speed run up there to "play cars"!!!!!


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## 68greengoat (Sep 15, 2005)

I know you have a ways to go, but, I bet it was a big boost to get the new floor in. You must feel like you're finally accomplishing something, even tho you've accomplished alot already. The floor is just a huge visual. I can understand when some guys who have done a ground up restore say," It was a great experience, but I'll never do it again..". Press on, Mitch!!

ps. I used to be a big ELO fan....


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## Mike_V (Mar 10, 2006)

I love this thread because there's always so much progress. I can't imagine if you were at 100% with your hand, cut finger, and whatever else. I am just amazed.


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## zzomby (Aug 23, 2009)

Speechless! I am only getting mine back on the road. I can only imagine what would happen if I tore into mine like that. "m a little luckier though. Mine has been garaged since 82' Great work Mitch.


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## gtoblade (Jan 25, 2010)

Its settled then, we are all packing up our toys and headed to Mitch's to play cars!!!! arty:


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## gtoblade (Jan 25, 2010)

What brand plasma cutter you using Mitch? I see alot of these cheaper ones out these days but while I wouldnt use it alot, I want it to work!!


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## Too Many Projects (Nov 15, 2008)

gtoblade said:


> What brand plasma cutter you using Mitch? I see alot of these cheaper ones out these days but while I wouldnt use it alot, I want it to work!!


I bought a Hobart Airforce 400. It runs on 110 or 220. I looked at the cheap ones on ebay too and decided against them. They run off an inverter rather than a converter like a arc welder. Mine is a converter type and I figured it would last longer. It weighs 55 lbs compared to 20 or less for some of the cheap models. It also has coil start, or something like that, that creates an arc instantly. Some of the cheaper ones have to build up a high resistance before they will arc and that eats the tips and can create problems for nearby computer controller machinery and cell phones. Mine also has the cool down feature which keeps the air blowing thru the nozzle to cool the tip and extend it's life.
A plasma for $600 is very tempting and who knows, it may last as long as my Hobart. For limited use on light sheet metal it may be all you need. I wanted a machine that would handle my other equipment with thicker steel and I've already surpassed the 110 volt capacity cutting thru 4 layers on the car. I had it turned up to 27 amps and the circuit breaker kept kicking out. I had to turn down the amps and make 2 passes. I will definitely be building a 220 conversion box for it soon.
Hopes this makes sense and helps your decision....:seeya


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## geeteeohguy (Feb 2, 2008)

Okay, here we go, to the tune of "Ghost Riders in the Sky":
They seem to come from way up North, least that's what I've been told
They work on iron rusted up, they weld out in the cold
They cut on cars so rusted that it makes this poor boy cry
Another Goat that's saved from being a RUST PUILE IN THE SKY!
yippie-ky-aaaaaa, yippie-kyyy-ooohhhh
Rust Piles in the Sky
The guy up there with Plasma Power's tearing up the shop
He's splicing metal all around, will he ever stop?
A toilet on his workbench , a forklift and a mop
Parts and pieces everywhere, strewn about the shop
Yippie-ky-aaaaaaaye, yippie ky-ohhhhhhhh
Rust Piles in the Sky!
There's surgery a happenin', I'm here to tell you why
There's ozone burning all around, there's burnin' in his eyes
This is a resurrection, not some pie in the sky
This Goat will be a roadburner...NO RUST PILE IN THE SKY!!!!


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## gtoblade (Jan 25, 2010)

That helps a lot Mitch! I really dont want to spend 1G on one (even tho I would love to have it) for the small amount I have to do right now. Instead of wasting money on one right now, I may pick me up a die grinder kit to get me thru instead! FUnny how I never bought one before. Always used the old Saw zall and hand held grinder.


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## Too Many Projects (Nov 15, 2008)

geeteeohguy said:


> Okay, here we go, to the tune of "Ghost Riders in the Sky":
> They seem to come from way up North, least that's what I've been told
> They work on iron rusted up, they weld out in the cold
> They cut on cars so rusted that it makes this poor boy cry
> ...


:rofl::rofl::rofl::rofl:
Man, you spent some time coming up with that..... Didn't even miss the toilet, did ya ?
OK, now that I've got laughter tears in my eyes, I'm going back out to battle the rust devil...:cheers


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## geeteeohguy (Feb 2, 2008)

Glad to be of moral support!! No, actually, came to me in about 5 minutes. I'm good at throwing words together......but that won't get my rear main fixed any sooner!


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## Too Many Projects (Nov 15, 2008)

geeteeohguy said:


> Glad to be of moral support!! No, actually, came to me in about 5 minutes. I'm good at throwing words together......but that won't get my rear main fixed any sooner!


If you could make millions as a song/ad writer you could pay someone else to do it....arty:


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## Too Many Projects (Nov 15, 2008)

Not a lot of big panel action going on the last couple days. Mostly cleaning all the mating surfaces for the floor and toe panel patch. I did get the toe panel cut out and tacked in. Most of today was spent on the dash. I wanted to thoroughly clean and paint under the dash to prevent future rust and after I put the floor in for a test fit, I realized it would be much easier to do the under dash work with the pan out and me standing on the floor.
Toe panel patch area.


Replacement pan. It's plenty big enough...


Cut almost in half with the plasma. I marked it from underneath and finished trimming it to size with the cut off grinder...:willy:


I took the floor back out and tacked the panel in. I will need to put the floor back for final alignment of the pan.


On it's side for access to the underside of the dash.


You can see the red color of the surface rust under there. Miraculously, there isn't anything serious to deal with. I took a few hours and hand scraped, brushed, cleaned with solvent and wiped it all down and then applied rust stop to everything. It will get semi gloss black paint tomorrow. 


Before cleaning.


After....


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## zzomby (Aug 23, 2009)

When you cut in a piece on your floor, Do you flush cut the new piece or leave some hanging over the old.


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## Too Many Projects (Nov 15, 2008)

zzomby said:


> When you cut in a piece on your floor, Do you flush cut the new piece or leave some hanging over the old.


I trim all edges for flush match and butt weld. The front edge of the floor pan will be an overlap joint, just like factory.


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## geeteeohguy (Feb 2, 2008)

Good ideal doing the dash before the floor and being able to stand up on your hind legs and do it. I find that as I get older, any innovative way to avoid "gravel-backing" a job is a good way! Your welds and joints are so clean, it will be very hard to tell the car was repaired to this extent when you're done with it. I can't believe your rate of progress on this thing!!


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## Too Many Projects (Nov 15, 2008)

geeteeohguy said:


> Good ideal doing the dash before the floor and being able to stand up on your hind legs and do it. I find that as I get older, any innovative way to avoid "gravel-backing" a job is a good way! Your welds and joints are so clean, it will be very hard to tell the car was repaired to this extent when you're done with it. I can't believe your rate of progress on this thing!!


That's the goal, Jeff. I'm going to have a bunch of time and money in the body by the time it's ready for paint and I sure don't want it to look like a cobbled mess.
I didn't go out there today. My hand and wrist were pretty sore last night and I think I've been overdoing it a bit. Tomorrow I will be busy with the Camaro Club setting up the display at World of Wheels in St. Paul, so it will be Friday before I get back at it. I hope my hand feels better by then so I can abuse it again....:lol:


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## Mike_V (Mar 10, 2006)

With the speed you're going, a day off means nothing.


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## geeteeohguy (Feb 2, 2008)

I agree. Mitch is about 100 times more productive than the average "restorer". I've read in magazines about 10 and even 20 year restorations. Do those guys think they'll live to be 130 years old?? One thing though, take care of the hand and wrist if it hurts....I screwed up an ankle in 1994 and decided to "work through it", and now, I can tell when it's gonna rain and it aches, 16 years later....so, TAKE IT EASY UNTIL IT HEALS!!!


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## Too Many Projects (Nov 15, 2008)

I've been checking around for the rest of the pieces to finish the body for about a month. I was THIS close to ordering it all from RPC in Scottsdale AZ this week. I had gotten prices from a local dealer but to get free shipping, he needed to put together a large enough order and he had just put one in during January. He didn't think he would get enough other orders for another free shipment until May !! RPC quoted me $115 for shipping which about the most reasonable cost I had heard. The local guy called a bit ago and said he had a guy come in today and inquire about a LOT of sheet metal to restore 2 Camaros and between the 2 of us, it qualified for free shipping. I committed immediately but the other guy is going to compile a list over the weekend and come back on Monday. Soooooo, if he actually comes back, I will place my order too and have it all here around the 3rd week of March with no shipping.... If it falls thru, i can still go to RPC next week. The outer wheel wells aren't actually released and here yet, but they are on a container due to arrive March 3rd. The trunk floor I'll be getting is the new Dynacorn 1 piece with all braces made just for PONTIACS. No cutting and modifying the Buick floor anymore. All 4 wheel well pieces, the deck filler panel, and sail panel patches for a Chevelle. They aren't the right size to just weld in but they can be cut up to provide the window flange and inside material that always rusts thru. I have the quarter skins and trunk drops from gto blade and the NOS tail panel I got off eBay a while ago so that should be everything I need to complete the major body restoration.arty:


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## gtoblade (Jan 25, 2010)

Man Mitch, thats alot of parts! Good deal on shipping!!!



geeteeohguy said:


> I've read in magazines about 10 and even 20 year restorations. Do those guys think they'll live to be 130 years old??


As for us "long timers" maybe its because we have those nice expenses or other priorities like "Family" and "Kids" that delay it all!!!!!!!!!


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## 68greengoat (Sep 15, 2005)

Too Many Projects said:


> Tomorrow I will be busy with the Camaro Club setting up the display at *World of Wheels *in St. Paul, so it will be Friday before I get back at it.


Cool, that means Duluth should have theirs soon....... Spring must be just around the corner.....


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## Too Many Projects (Nov 15, 2008)

geeteeohguy said:


> I agree. Mitch is about 100 times more productive than the average "restorer".


I have the advantage of being un-employed during the winter and can work on it 5 days a week. I went out yesterday to dig out the frame from 9 months of crap stacked on and around it. By the time I had it free, I decided to continue my shop "re-org" and spent a few hours moving other stuff around to make more floor space. About the time I was ready to start putting pallets on racks and moving heavy stuff with the fork lift, it decided to die and I haven't gotten it running right yet. I need to find an electrical gremlin and gave up yesterday.


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## Too Many Projects (Nov 15, 2008)

WOW, I couldn't find my thread and here it is at the top as a "sticky"...:cool
Finished the re-org today. I didn't get anything done on the car or frame but come Monday, I'm gonna get right to work. I've had a 8' pickup box standing in a corner for 6 years taking up valuable floor space. I put it out of the way yesterday.


It's been a year since I could park the forklift next to the frame and body.


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## 05GTO (Oct 6, 2004)

Too Many Projects said:


> WOW, I couldn't find my thread and here it is at the top as a "sticky"...:cool


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## Too Many Projects (Nov 15, 2008)

That is just NASTY.
Careful dude, I'll bring back the commode...


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## Rukee (Feb 8, 2007)

yea, that guy is gunna need it!!


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## Too Many Projects (Nov 15, 2008)

Yee Haw.... I just got off the phone with my local Dynacorn dealer. Trunk floor assembly, deck filler panel and outer wheelhouses should be here in ~ 3 weeks. The inner wheelhouses are the same as a Chevelle and he has them and the sail panel patches in stock, so I will be getting them Friday.
Boring day yesterday sand blasting and rust treating the rear control arms. I have a new vibratory tumbler that I'll be using to clean original bolts for re-use. I set it up yesterday to clean the distributor pieces for my Camaro and it works pretty good but is a slooooooow process...


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## Thumpin455 (Feb 17, 2010)

Waiting on parts takes up more time than anything. 3 weeks, thats almost how long I wanted for the floors.


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## Too Many Projects (Nov 15, 2008)

Thumpin455 said:


> Waiting on parts takes up more time than anything. 3 weeks, thats almost how long I wanted for the floors.


It gives me time to build up the frame to a roller and I have to be out of town for 1 of the weeks, so I will be ready just about the time they get here.:cheers


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## Thumpin455 (Feb 17, 2010)

Oh yeah I forgot about the frame. I need to get that done too. Cant forget a piece like that, its kinda important.


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## Too Many Projects (Nov 15, 2008)

I've made a little progress this week just nothing to exciting to see. I've spent a LOT of time staring into the blasting cabinet. Blasted all the rear control arms and pressed the new bushings in. I went to install the new bushings in the 12 bolt axle and remembered I needed to modify the left upper control arm for clearance after I had it all painted... The placement of the control arm is the same as a 10 bolt but the housing is bigger and the control arm binds on it. GM ground down the arm on the inside and spot welded a reinforcing washer for the 12 bolt applications. Here's my fix.
You can see the arm is already hitting the housing and I can't move it at all for range of motion.


Here I've ground off a portion of the arm for clearance.


Here is the reinforcing washer I used as a pattern for grinding. I blasted the cheap zinc coating off before welding. You can compare how much material is removed.


All welded in. I put a washer on the other side too just for good measure.


All painted again and ready for install. I can rotate the arm almost down to the web below it and nearly vertical. Way beyond the normal travel range before it hits. 


Also picked up the inner wheelhouses and left sail panel patch today.


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## 646904GTO (Feb 10, 2008)

Those arms look so weak with the rust pits I would suggest you box them like the lowers. Just my .02


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## Too Many Projects (Nov 15, 2008)

They are the factory reinforced arms.


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## Mike_V (Mar 10, 2006)

I'm just curious, but what makes them reinforced. I read the post about the washer deal - nice fix - but would standard ones not have that turned edge or something?


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## Too Many Projects (Nov 15, 2008)

Mike_V said:


> I'm just curious, but what makes them reinforced. I read the post about the washer deal - nice fix - but would standard ones not have that turned edge or something?


There is a plate welded to the open bottom on the front half to box them in. I've never seen this on a Chev. It seems to be a Pontiac item and possibly only for a few years too. Many people on the PY forums didn't know they existed. GM did weld a plate to the side of the arm that was ground down for reinforcement too. Many people have struggled to get that arm back on a 12 bolt after an axle upgrade from a 10. It can be done with everything in just the right position and once the car is driven the arm will bend to conform to the housing but it distorts the mounting flange and isn't correct. I have a factory arm on my 70 SS Chevelle but I don't have a good pic to post as a reference. They remove more material than I did and the head of the nut is at the edge of the arm. It is possible that mine could touch if the car were launched hard with good bite and the rubber bushing gave enough to move that far.


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## 66tempestGT (Nov 28, 2009)

unless you start pulling the front wheels on the launch i dont think you could break those pitted arms if you tried.


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## Too Many Projects (Nov 15, 2008)

66tempestGT said:


> unless you start pulling the front wheels on the launch i dont think you could break those pitted arms if you tried.


:agree They felt flimsy and flexed easily without the bushings but once the new front bushing was pressed in and the rear bolted to the housing, they feel really solid now... I'm not gonna worry about them. It's just gonna be a street cruiser...:cool


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## HenryJ63 (Jan 11, 2010)

Mitch, what did you pay for the one piece dynacorn trunk floor? Do you know how much I am going to have to modify the hardtop wheel housings for my 66 convert?

Thanks Hank.


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## Too Many Projects (Nov 15, 2008)

HenryJ63 said:


> Mitch, what did you pay for the one piece dynacorn trunk floor? Do you know how much I am going to have to modify the hardtop wheel housings for my 66 convert?
> 
> Thanks Hank.


$600 for the floor. I don't know what a convert wheelhouse looks like. If you post/send me a good pic, I might be able to advise. I can get close up pics and measurements from mine to help too.


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## Too Many Projects (Nov 15, 2008)

Here's a pic of the reinforcement plate on the bottom of the control arm.


Took another huge leap of faith and mixed up 18 ozs of epoxy paint for the frame today. It was 43° and sunny when I started this venture and completely clouded over by the time I had sprayed it. I ran out of paint before I got it all covered, but I was only hoping to get the back half done so I could install the rear axle anyway. 
Bare frame...


I took this outside but without the sun, it looks dark Grey.


Back inside under the lights it looks silver grey again. I thought the dark grey I painted the axle and control arms would give it some contrast but they are so close I am considering painting them again with the epoxy to match. I really like the color.... I think it will give a softer contrast to the Aqua body than black.


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## 66tempestGT (Nov 28, 2009)

enjoy looking at it. i painted all the suspension on a chevy II that i had silver clearcoat to match the body. it loked awsome in the garage for about a year. then i put the fenders on and started driving it and never saw the suspension again till the oil change, then it was all nasty.


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## Too Many Projects (Nov 15, 2008)

66tempestGT said:


> enjoy looking at it. i painted all the suspension on a chevy II that i had silver clearcoat to match the body. it loked awsome in the garage for about a year. then i put the fenders on and started driving it and never saw the suspension again till the oil change, then it was all nasty.


I've been "hung up" about getting it right for too long. I looked at it today and said "what the hell am I doing ? it's a FRAME for crying out loud". Once the body is back on, it won't be seen. Just PAINT the dang thang....it looks a heck of a lot better than rust....


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## Thumpin455 (Feb 17, 2010)

Too Many Projects said:


> I've been "hung up" about getting it right for too long. I looked at it today and said "what the hell am I doing ? it's a FRAME for crying out loud". Once the body is back on, it won't be seen. Just PAINT the dang thang....it looks a heck of a lot better than rust....


Now you're talkin. Do the best you can on the parts you can see, and just do the parts you cant see. Otherwise it will take you a lifetime to finish.


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## 66tempestGT (Nov 28, 2009)

i like the color. black is boring.


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## gtoblade (Jan 25, 2010)

Are you done yet?? We want to ride in it this summer!!

Actually as fast as you work you probably could pull it off!


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## Too Many Projects (Nov 15, 2008)

66tempestGT said:


> black is boring.


 My thoughts exactly....



gtoblade said:


> Are you done yet?? We want to ride in it this summer!!
> 
> Actually as fast as you work you probably could pull it off!


I had the "little woman" help me flip the frame over on the cart Sunday and dug out a bunch of other parts that attach to it for painting this week. Our weather turned to crap yesterday and doesn't look to let up until next week, when I'm out of town till the 20th..... Oh well, I realized I need to weld the z bar bracket on and I wanted to weld the rear shock nuts on, rather than trying to fish them in that tight spot later. I cleaned off the paint for the nuts and got them on but got "hung up" again on the location for the bracket. I cross referenced where it was on the old frame and approximate location from the frame bracket to stud locale on the block. It appears it was at least a 1/2" too far back and I would like it to be as close as possible for the Z bar to be straight. Sooooo........ today I'm going to set the frame on stands and install the engine and trans so I actually see where the bracket lines up and get it welded on.... Sometimes it really sucks to be a danged "perfectionist".
I'm waiting for the trunk floor and outer wheelhouses to come in before welding the cabin floor in too. I want to set it on the frame and make sure it all lines up.
I'm still waiting for a title too before making 4k in sheetmetal a part of the body. I talked to the guy I got the car from again on Sunday and he said he turned all the paperwork into his DMV 3 weeks ago and thinks he will have the title soon. I'll feel a LOT more comfortable welding it all up permanently with a title in my name...:cheers


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## geeteeohguy (Feb 2, 2008)

Sounds great, Mitch. On the rear shocks, I always stuck the bolts in from the top, and put the nuts on the bottom: that way, if a nut comes loose, the bolt will stay in place and keep the shock from twisting. I have a pet 1/2 inch Ford/Mopar timing wrench that fits the upper bolt head perfectly! Makes the job a snap. I agree, get the TITLE before commiting yourself and your resources any further!!!!!


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## Thumpin455 (Feb 17, 2010)

I got the title to mine before I bought anything for it. The last thing I need is some dispute over who owns it after I spent all those hours and hard earned $$$ on it. One thing is for sure, it would have a mechanics lien on it so fast their head would spin, and all of MY parts would be gone, they would get it with what it came with, no engine, trans, interior, etc.


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## Too Many Projects (Nov 15, 2008)

Thumpin455 said:


> I got the title to mine before I bought anything for it. The last thing I need is some dispute over who owns it after I spent all those hours and hard earned $$$ on it. One thing is for sure, it would have a mechanics lien on it so fast their head would spin, and all of MY parts would be gone, they would get it with what it came with, no engine, trans, interior, etc.


There's a LOT of background that goes with the title issue, but I THINK it's in the final stage now. MN is such a bleeding heart state that we have laws that others don't about titling abandoned cars. It came from ND and the seller was "supposed" to get it titled in his name before I picked it up. We shall see.
I'm at that point of not wanting to go any further with the body because if someone came for it, I only have $400 in parts welded on now. I have an airtight case against anyone claiming MY frame and body parts should go with it. I have over 300 pics of all these parts along with documentation of where the frame came from and of course, all the dialog on here about it. 

I ALMOST got the rest of the frame and brackets painted yesterday. I pee'd away the morning fitting the engine and headers in the chassis to see where to weld the cross shaft bracket on and realized about noon that the predicted rain wasn't yet here. I then got busy getting all the rest of the parts cleaned and hung for paint and by the time I was ready at 3:15pm, I walked outside to discover it was, indeed, sprinkling. It hasn't stopped since and the radar doesn't give much hope of getting it out for the next 2-3 days. The bracket actually went right where I thought it should with my rough measurements the day before. It was a 1/2" farther back on the old frame and would've put the shaft at an angle. Oh well, I KNOW it's straight now.
Shaft bracket located for welding...


After looking at the headers hanging on the wall, I got curious about how they were going to fit with the shaft and got them down. The shaft goes between two tubes and the shaft has to go in with the header loose to get it all in. The pushrod needs to be moved to the other side of the lower arm and the arm bent for clearance with a tube too. I didn't even try the starter. It's all going to be pretty tight down there. 


Also get to trim about 1/2" off the upper control arm studs for clearance.


Right side isn't too bad on the studs and the oil filter housing has plenty of room.


However, the flange pinches the dipstick tube. Hopefully with a gasket in there, it will provide a little room.


Vroom, vroom.....sure wish I was putting this together instead of just mocking parts for fit.


After 3 hours of screwing around, I'm back to a bare frame with just this to show for it....:willy:


My "parts tree", ready for paint...:lol:


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## Rukee (Feb 8, 2007)

Looking good Mitch!!!


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## Mike_V (Mar 10, 2006)

Thanks for the pic of the boxed in section - that cleared it up quick. My God, though, this project is moving so fast and so right.

I hope everything goes okay with the title.


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## geeteeohguy (Feb 2, 2008)

Mitch, on my old '66, with headers, I used a die grinder on the header flange for dipstick clearance. I also welded a flag shaped extension to the top end of the Z-bar, which moved the Z-bar to a better angle to clear the header tube. I ended up adjusting the bottom clutch rod a tad to compensate. It worked great, and no banging on the header tubes. Brake line clearance at the header/Z-bar area is critical. too. You may have to re-route the one brake line.


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## Too Many Projects (Nov 15, 2008)

geeteeohguy said:


> Mitch, on my old '66, with headers, I used a die grinder on the header flange for dipstick clearance. I also welded a flag shaped extension to the top end of the Z-bar, which moved the Z-bar to a better angle to clear the header tube. I ended up adjusting the bottom clutch rod a tad to compensate. It worked great, and no banging on the header tubes. Brake line clearance at the header/Z-bar area is critical. too. You may have to re-route the one brake line.


I thought of grinding the flange or just cutting it out altogether since I have all 6 bolt holes to use but I hate to start messing with the ceramic coating. I don't know if it will chip off from the open wound ?

Didn't think to fit the new brakes lines....guess I'll see what needs to be done when I get to that point. I still need to order new fuel lines too and front springs and etc. etc. etc......:willy:


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## geeteeohguy (Feb 2, 2008)

Didn't know about the ceramic.....that complicates things. Maybe etch the border of your grind spot with a glass cutter or use a masonry grinding bit to avoid a big, spreading chip? I dunno.......


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## Thumpin455 (Feb 17, 2010)

The ceramic coating on the headers under my 98 Formula havent flaked off where they have bashed the pavement, sure it can get scraped off, but it seems to bend with the metal to some extent. Its not paint or filler, so it acts a bit differently. You might find it to be different in your case, just letting you know that it isnt flaking off my super comps. I should have gotten the round port headers for my toy in ceramic while I was at it. Next set I guess.


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## Too Many Projects (Nov 15, 2008)

Thumpin455 said:


> The ceramic coating on the headers under my 98 Formula havent flaked off where they have bashed the pavement, sure it can get scraped off, but it seems to bend with the metal to some extent. Its not paint or filler, so it acts a bit differently. You might find it to be different in your case, just letting you know that it isnt flaking off my super comps. I should have gotten the round port headers for my toy in ceramic while I was at it. Next set I guess.


Thanks, that's good to know. The relief would be ground out of the head side of the flange so it won't be seen. I have high temp silver paint I could dab on it to prevent rust too.


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## jetstang (Nov 5, 2008)

Install the dipstick with the gaskets, all you need is for the dipstick to go in and out, if it works it works. If not, get a Lokar dipstick, I wouldn't grind the coating off, you know it will just rust and flake no matter what you put on it.
I spent all day making a gasket tray for my trunk seal, as it was all fiberglass. Thinking the whole time my car was rust free compared to what you and Thumping started with. Now, I just have to decide that the underpanel for the rear window fill panel will never be scene. I can POR-15 it and let it be all swiss cheesy with poorly welded patches, but it is solid now.


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## Too Many Projects (Nov 15, 2008)

Well, we got back from Pensacola today. Not the best spring vacation we've took. The temps were only in the mid 60's most of the time and it was that warm back here !!! I missed a few days of prime frame painting weather.....:willy: Oh well, we saw news things and enjoyed most of it but probably won't go back there soon. The wife wanted sun and surf instead of going to see Rick in San Antonio. Maybe next time she will listen to me.....:rofl: Temps are back down in the 30's now that I'm home. Hopefully they go back up next week so I can get the frame painting done and start on the assembly.


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## 66tempestGT (Nov 28, 2009)

not a good year for florida so far. only been a few weeks since they had snow!


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## Koppster (Jul 27, 2008)

Too Many Projects said:


> Well, we got back from Pensacola today. Not the best spring vacation we've took. The temps were only in the mid 60's most of the time and it was that warm back here !!! I missed a few days of prime frame painting weather.....:willy: Oh well, we saw news things and enjoyed most of it but probably won't go back there soon. The wife wanted sun and surf instead of going to see Rick in San Antonio. Maybe next time she will listen to me.....:rofl: Temps are back down in the 30's now that I'm home. Hopefully they go back up next week so I can get the frame painting done and start on the assembly.


Mitch....we "WERE" (past-tense) in the mid-70s here with beautiful skies all week and then Saturday it all went to &%$; cold and windy...in fact it is 38 degrees as we speak.  Regardless, the brisket would have been primo! :cheers

Always welcome in Texas!


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## likethat (Oct 5, 2007)

Crazy. I have sent parts cars to the yard in better shape. Makes me feel like my cars are child's play. Tho I have replaced the quarters, floor, trunk, and tail pan. Now just a few window channel repairs and a small patch on the package tray.


Great job. It really is. You should feel 10feet tall when your done.


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## Too Many Projects (Nov 15, 2008)

The weather here has been phenomenal the past two days and I got ALL of the frame painting done. All the front and rear control arms and crossmember are the same silver/gray as the frame and I painted the rear axle, springs, sway bar and driveshaft a darker gray for contrast. The paint is from Eastwood and is a 2 part epoxy with stainless particles for strength. When dry, it is very hard and resists scratches well. The cool part is the stainless specks give it a slight metallic glint in the sun and looks really nice. No pics yet, but I had the wife and son help me get the frame off the rack and onto jack stands today. I will get pics as I put the suspension and rear axle on over the next day or two. THIS THING IS GONNA ROLL on it's own 4 wheels soon....arty:
Also got the call from the Dynacorn dealer today.......ALL the rest of the sheetmetal is in, so I'll run up there soon and get that too. Only downside this week is work called and said be ready to truck the first week of APRIL !!! That's almost 6 weeks earlier than the last 2 years, so I won't have as long to work on it as I thought......:willy:


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## likethat (Oct 5, 2007)

Hope I don't sound like a HillBilly, but I sprayed my springs with tool dip and 50% lacquer thinner. It makes a mess party strings everywhere. I wanted something that would flex with the spring and keep the rust back. Plus match the Blue control arm bushings. I also used a silver por15 paint on the frame and por15 black on the control arms, trailing arms, axle, and brake parts. There is a pic on Chevyboys thread


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## Too Many Projects (Nov 15, 2008)

I should have the steering linkage and rotors on tomorrow. It will be ready for front wheels but I'll probably leave them off for now as it is more maneuverable with the floor jack.


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## Rukee (Feb 8, 2007)

Interesting color on the frame, looks good!


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## ChuckG (Jan 10, 2009)

Looking really good. But why didn't you spray or dip the front springs? They look out of place with the other work done.
Chuck


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## Too Many Projects (Nov 15, 2008)

ChuckG said:


> Looking really good. But why didn't you spray or dip the front springs? They look out of place with the other work done.
> Chuck


The springs will be replaced in the near future with drop coils. I just need them in for now to mount the body and check panel alignment.

Made a little progress today. I spent an HOUR looking for the front rotors and especially the spindle nuts and dust caps....man I can loose parts in the place !!! Anyway, here's the steering sector as I removed it last year. Those pointy studs are what is left of 7/16ths bolts that held it to the frame....


I cut them off short and welded a nut on them, filling the nut completely to get them red hot. After they cooled for a few minutes and the heat soaked down into the threads I hit them pretty good a few times with a bfh and spun them out with the impact.


Here it is with rotors and steering linkage on and with tires. It is able to roll and steer on it's own now. Next will be a test fit of the body and floor pan alignment.


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## geeteeohguy (Feb 2, 2008)

Starting to look like a GTO again!!!


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## jetstang (Nov 5, 2008)

Too Many Projects said:


> Well, we got back from Pensacola today. Not the best spring vacation we've took. The temps were only in the mid 60's most of the time and it was that warm back here !!! .


Damn, I live 45 miles from P-cola, near Destin, and work in Pcola. If you were bored I could have got some first hand advice on my 66. It has been a cold spring here. It is 10 degrees colder than average, hopefully it will stay that way all summer.
Oh, and your car parts look great, will be nice to see it become a car again, hell of a fabricator!


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## Too Many Projects (Nov 15, 2008)

jetstang said:


> Damn, I live 45 miles from P-cola, near Destin, and work in Pcola. If you were bored I could have got some first hand advice on my 66. It has been a cold spring here. It is 10 degrees colder than average, hopefully it will stay that way all summer.
> Oh, and your car parts look great, will be nice to see it become a car again, hell of a fabricator!


WOW, that's too bad I didn't know before. We were in Destin on the 15th. Went deep sea fishing on the Swoop party boat. Danged cold and rough running for 1 1/2 hour to get to the fish, but I caught 8 and my son caught 3. He was pretty green around the gills on the way out but leveled off after we stopped bouncing. Unfortunately it got the best of him on the way back....


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## jetstang (Nov 5, 2008)

Too Many Projects said:


> WOW, that's too bad I didn't know before. We were in Destin on the 15th. Went deep sea fishing on the Swoop party boat. Danged cold and rough running for 1 1/2 hour to get to the fish, but I caught 8 and my son caught 3. He was pretty green around the gills on the way out but leveled off after we stopped bouncing. Unfortunately it got the best of him on the way back....


Sorry to hear about your son chumming for fish- it happens.
You were pretty close, I live right across the bay, ride my Jetski to the Destin pass in 30 mins, 12 miles.
It's still cold and the spring breakers are bummed, rained today, 60s. Supposed to be 70 for the weekend, still unseasonably cold.


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## Too Many Projects (Nov 15, 2008)

More goodies !!!



Not impressed with the fit of the right inner wheel house to trunk floor. It's gonna take a lot of pulling to get it together.


Left side is very close and moves right in with a little push.


I got the filler panel behind the window too but didn't take any pics of it. I spent 3 hours doing un-interesting, dirty work removing the seat belt nuts and braces and the rear upper seat brackets from the old floor. I had to hand scrape the undercoating off them, grind off the left over spotwelds and then blasted them clean in the cabinet. The seat belt mounts will be the next step and then I can lift the body with them and the forklift to remove the roto and roll the chassis under for a test fit. I bolted the trunk pan on the frame today too with the new body mounts. It went on very nicely with only the two mounts at the very rear being a little too far apart. The bolts still went in but there isn't any "wiggle: room if it doesn't line up...


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## Rukee (Feb 8, 2007)

Don't worry about that gap on the right side, the stuff didn't line up perfectly at the factory either, that's why they used so much seam sealer.


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## 66tempestGT (Nov 28, 2009)

vise grips will easily pull it together so that it can be welded. i love seam sealer but it wont hold the car together.  all things considered it looks like a pretty nice piece. i have found that, considering aftermarket parts are usually a little "off", when you try to fit multiple aftermarket parts together this is what you get.


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## Mike_V (Mar 10, 2006)

Too Many Projects said:


> The bolts still went in but there isn't any "wiggle: room if it doesn't line up...


I'm lost on this part, which bolts?

Oh, and gawd dang - you're a beast at this :cheers


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## Too Many Projects (Nov 15, 2008)

Mike_V said:


> I'm lost on this part, which bolts?
> 
> Oh, and gawd dang - you're a beast at this :cheers


The body mounting bolts that come from underneath and screw into the mount nuts in the pan.


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## Thumpin455 (Feb 17, 2010)

Were they on back order? If not who has them, I need a set. Looks good Mitch, its neck and neck to see who will get the rust bucket drivable first...


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## Too Many Projects (Nov 15, 2008)

Thumpin455 said:


> Were they on back order? If not who has them, I need a set. Looks good Mitch, its neck and neck to see who will get the rust bucket drivable first...


No, I have been looking at the pan for a few months now. It was a new release the first of the year and the outer wheel houses just became available March 5th. I got a set of the first ones over on the can... I ordered it all March 4th, and they came in this week.


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## Thumpin455 (Feb 17, 2010)

I meant the body mount bolts.  With luck I will be putting the body back on with in a week or two. Gonna need bolts and bushings when that happens. Just wonderin if you knew of anyone who had em in stock.


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## Too Many Projects (Nov 15, 2008)

Thumpin455 said:


> I meant the body mount bolts.  With luck I will be putting the body back on with in a week or two. Gonna need bolts and bushings when that happens. Just wonderin if you knew of anyone who had em in stock.


I bought a whole set from Ames a year ago.


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## likethat (Oct 5, 2007)

If you haven't bought the radiator support bushing watch them also. The chevelle's are different and it will make the fenders not fit right.


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## johnnylightning03 (Nov 27, 2007)

Too Many Projects said:


> I bought a whole set from Ames a year ago.


i bought mine from year one. they fit, but look different. just make sure you guys take off the made in taiwan stickers on the washers  the rad support kit is a bit different as well. i used some of my original washers with the new bushings for the rad support. finding nos pieces for this would be nice. great projects! i'm amazed at what is going on in these threads. kinda like watching the best gto dragrace ever! maybe slower, but no less exciting :cheers


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## Too Many Projects (Nov 15, 2008)

Haven't accomplished much the past couple days but I went "shopping" today and got one of these....:cool


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## 66tempestGT (Nov 28, 2009)

nice find. the fenders i have seen people are very "proud" of them


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## Too Many Projects (Nov 15, 2008)

66tempestGT said:


> nice find. the fenders i have seen people are very "proud" of them


Very good...... It is an NOS LH fender......arty:


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## Thumpin455 (Feb 17, 2010)

I hate you again Mitch... Oh wait, you have even more rust to deal with than I do.. I dont hate you anymore. Awesome find!


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## Rukee (Feb 8, 2007)

Awesome find indeed!!! :cheers


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## Too Many Projects (Nov 15, 2008)

I lowered the body on the frame today !!!!! The intent was to test fit the 2 floors and mount locations but I realized after I had it off the roto that the quarters are much narrower than the trunk floor so I had to take the trunk floor off the frame. Anyway, it looks pretty cool sitting on a chassis again and movable.


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## Thumpin455 (Feb 17, 2010)

Sweet! I have no idea how I am going to get the body back on the frame. Its getting to be about that time though.


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## Rukee (Feb 8, 2007)

Thumpin455 said:


> Sweet! I have no idea how I am going to get the body back on the frame. Its getting to be about that time though.


3 or 4 buddies and a 12 pack. 

Don't open the 12 pack till AFTER the car has been moved.


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## Too Many Projects (Nov 15, 2008)

I used the outer seat belt holes and 2 straps on the forks. I've seen pictures of guys doing it with an engine hoist too. It really pulls hard on the holes and bent the metal some, but it worked.


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## likethat (Oct 5, 2007)

The silver frame, rally II's, and the fork lift looks like when I put mine back on the frame. 4 good size guys should do it. That is what I have had the last couple years or so when I have moved the 67 convert and frame around.


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## Thumpin455 (Feb 17, 2010)

Well I would need 4 guys and everyone I know up here is either lazy, busy, or crippled.  I do have a backhoe, but that thing scares me around my cars. Doesnt scare me to run it or anything, just very nervous around my precious sheet metal.


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## Mike_V (Mar 10, 2006)

Thumpin455 said:


> Well I would need 4 guys and everyone I know up here is either lazy, busy, or crippled.


Just tell them you're doing a BBQ, then surprise them when they get there.


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## Too Many Projects (Nov 15, 2008)

Mike_V said:


> Just tell them you're doing a BBQ, then surprise them when they get there.


I like the way you think, Mike 
Hey guys, the beer and food is in the GTO but you can't have any until the body is on the frame.....:cheers


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## Mike_V (Mar 10, 2006)

Too Many Projects said:


> I like the way you think, Mike
> Hey guys, the beer and food is in the GTO but you can't have any until the body is on the frame.....:cheers


Have some women watching too - they'll suck in their guts and lift that body like it's paper :rofl:


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## BCsGTO (May 17, 2010)

*The Man!*



Mike_V said:


> Have some women watching too - they'll suck in their guts and lift that body like it's paper :rofl:


Ok Mitch I was off work at 4. I was curious and I opened your follow resto link........... I've been here ever since with my mouth agape! You are amazing!!!!!!!!! The stuff you tackle I've never even dreamed of. Awsome work man job well done. WOW:cheers


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## Too Many Projects (Nov 15, 2008)

BCsGTO said:


> Ok Mitch I was off work at 4. I was curious and I opened your follow resto link........... I've been here ever since with my mouth agape! You are amazing!!!!!!!!! The stuff you tackle I've never even dreamed of. Awsome work man job well done. WOW:cheers


Thanks, Ken. If you have another hour and a half to kill read the other sticky thread "65 GTO with a little bit of rust". It's crazy what 2 nut cases will do with objects that were once cars.....:rofl:


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## Thumpin455 (Feb 17, 2010)

Too Many Projects said:


> Thanks, Ken. If you have another hour and a half to kill read the other sticky thread "65 GTO with a little bit of rust". It's crazy what 2 nut cases will do with objects that were once cars.....:rofl:


No doubt. I dont know which Goat was worse, this one or the 65. I wonder which one will see the road first.


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## Grim66 (May 22, 2010)

*Following your resto*



BCsGTO said:


> Ok Mitch I was off work at 4. I was curious and I opened your follow resto link........... I've been here ever since with my mouth agape! You are amazing!!!!!!!!! The stuff you tackle I've never even dreamed of. Awsome work man job well done. WOW:cheers


Hey Mitch,
I'm following your resto too as I think I might have a bit of the same work in store for me. Just picked up a 66 LeMans Sprint. Which has some decent rust in the pics I've seen, which I'm sure is 10x worse in reality. I know the floor and trunk pans will need to be replaced so am watching your progress there.

I have never wielded anything before (put I have use a plasma cutter!) are there any resources you would suggest for a complete newbie who wants to learn and do this Resto-Mod himself?

Cheers and can't wait to see this Goat done.

Wade


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## Too Many Projects (Nov 15, 2008)

Grim66 said:


> Hey Mitch,
> I'm following your resto too as I think I might have a bit of the same work in store for me. Just picked up a 66 LeMans Sprint. Which has some decent rust in the pics I've seen, which I'm sure is 10x worse in reality. I know the floor and trunk pans will need to be replaced so am watching your progress there.
> 
> I have never wielded anything before (put I have use a plasma cutter!) are there any resources you would suggest for a complete newbie who wants to learn and do this Resto-Mod himself?
> ...


Welcome to the fun, Wade !!! I was going to enroll at my local community college to learn how to use my MiG but I am fairly good with a stick welder so I just tried the MiG and it's so easy, it almost welds by itself. If you have a school available for training, that might be worth checking out. I may still enroll in the auto body course in a year or 2 to learn how to do final prep and paint. I'd like to set up a booth in my shop and have a complete restoration shop in-house.


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## Too Many Projects (Nov 15, 2008)

Nothing happening on the car since summer work started. Good news is, I heard from the guy I bought it from yesterday and he finally got word from his DMV that all the paperwork is now in order and he should receive a clear title in 4-7 weeks. I can then transfer it to my name and feel confidant about getting the body assembled when I have time again.


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## Koppster (Jul 27, 2008)

Great news Mitch...gotta relieve a little stress for ya! arty:


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## Too Many Projects (Nov 15, 2008)

Got a call from N. Dakota this morning. The seller has a valid title in his hand and is mailing it this week...arty::cheers


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## Rukee (Feb 8, 2007)

arty:


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## Too Many Projects (Nov 15, 2008)

As of today, I have a valid North Dakota title for my car. I will be transferring it to my name in the next couple weeks. I am PUMPED...:cool


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## Rukee (Feb 8, 2007)

arty:
You meen Monday, right.


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## jetstang (Nov 5, 2008)

CONGRATS!!
Now this thread can proceed..


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## Mike_V (Mar 10, 2006)

^^^ yes!!


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## Too Many Projects (Nov 15, 2008)

Rukee said:


> arty:
> You meen Monday, right.


Life is too b usy for that. i need a rain day to have time....



jetstang said:


> CONGRATS!!
> Now this thread can proceed..


GTO is moved to the storage side of building for the summer. I took in a PAYING job of modifying a 69 Camaro into a pro-touring car. It already has a hacked up LS1 conversion and rack steering but I am installing a Wayne Due coil-over front sub-frame, TCI coil-over 4 link rear suspension with frame connectors and a Rick's stainless LS conversion fuel tank.


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## geeteeohguy (Feb 2, 2008)

Congrats, Mitch. Keep all appendages out of harms way!!! And get that toilet back in the shop and hooked up!!! The game is on!!!!


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## DukeB-120th (Oct 19, 2009)

I am speechless. I also saw the 65 thread that the guy is doing for his father in law. I can only hope to someday posess some amount of the competency exhibited by you guys. Can't wait to see both look like Goats.


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## Too Many Projects (Nov 15, 2008)

DukeB-120th said:


> I am speechless. I also saw the 65 thread that the guy is doing for his father in law. I can only hope to someday posess some amount of the competency exhibited by you guys. Can't wait to see both look like Goats.


Thanks for the compliment. Easy on the competancy here, I don't have the money to pay a shop to do this and have plenty of time during the winter. This has been a learn as I go project of a magnatude never before attempted by me. My goal is that it looks as good as a 30k+ shop resto when I'm done...
I'm currently repairing, modifying and installing an used Wayne Due subframe in a 69 Camaro with LS1/4L60e for income. Once I'm layed off for the winter, the GTO body will go back on the roto, the frame to a frame shop to be checked/straightened and then I will be welding up a storm with all the new panels. It won't have paint or an interior next year but I hope to have it on the road...:cheers


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## 66tempestGT (Nov 28, 2009)

have you seen some issues with your frame? if you are just wanting to make sure its right you can just do some cross measuring on your shop floor.


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## Too Many Projects (Nov 15, 2008)

66tempestGT said:


> have you seen some issues with your frame? if you are just wanting to make sure its right you can just do some cross measuring on your shop floor.


I helped remove the body from the frame and the car had been in the junkyard for 20+ years because it was hit in the right front. It doesn't measure square nor did the body sit good when I set it on last spring. I became friends with a frame shop owner over the winter and he wants to straighten it before I bolt the body on. May even be free since I have referred many new customers to him and the Camaro I'm working on will go there when it's assembled...


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## 66tempestGT (Nov 28, 2009)

cool, glad youve got it covered.


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## DukeB-120th (Oct 19, 2009)

Too Many Projects said:


> Thanks for the compliment. Easy on the competancy here, I don't have the money to pay a shop to do this and have plenty of time during the winter. This has been a learn as I go project of a magnatude never before attempted by me. My goal is that it looks as good as a 30k+ shop resto when I'm done...


Shoot, competency or not, you're getting the job done, and I would love to be able to do something somewhat like that someday.


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## Too Many Projects (Nov 15, 2008)

arty: I am now the LEGAL owner of my GTO...:lol: Clear and free title in my name...arty:


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## 66tempestGT (Nov 28, 2009)

arty::cheers


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## Koppster (Jul 27, 2008)

Great news Mitch....gotta be a stress reliever!


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## Too Many Projects (Nov 15, 2008)

Koppster said:


> Great news Mitch....gotta be a stress reliever!


It will be fun to get back at it. I was ready to weld in the passenger compartment floor last March but held off because I didn't have the title. I have since befriended a guy who owns an alignment/body repair shop and he wants me to bring the frame to him first to straighten before setting the body back on to weld in the floor.


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## twinjracing (Aug 28, 2010)

WOW is all i can say!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! And I figerd mine was rusty so I found a nother body cool project can't wait to see whats next


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