# 389 Engine Rebuild - Here we go.



## mwprout (Oct 27, 2015)

Hello folks, 
I'm fairly new to the forum but thought now would be a good time to engage. I've been looking for a good reason to rebuild the 389 in my '65 GTO and an 80% leak test result on cylinder #5 was all the reason I needed. So next weekend, my son and some friends are coming over and the engine is coming out. I've done most of the prep work so the engine should be fairly straight forward (oh boy, I probably shouldn't have said that!) At any rate, I'm looking to do a complete engine rebuild and upgrade components (mostly for street application) under $10K. Probably biggest decision will be carbureted or EFI and what cam to select. Right now, based on the research I've done to date, this is where my parts list sits for the major pieces.

DSS forged pistons
Comp Cam flat tappet hydraulic cam 212-218 duration @0.05" lift
Edelbrock Performer dual plane intake
Holley Sniper EFI or Holley 650 CFM Quadrajet carb
Ram Air Factory Headers
RobbMc Mini-starter

So here goes... all comments/questions welcome. And I'll be coming back for more posts as this journey unfolds.


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## bigD (Jul 21, 2016)

"...all comments/questions welcome..."


Since you are obviously not going with factory appearing, AND have $10k to spend, I'd go with a stroker. You can use your 389 block. But I'd go with a 481988 400 block, and a forged crank stroker assembly. 

http://butlerperformance.com/i-2459...embly-stroker-kit-for-389-block-4-000str.html

http://butlerperformance.com/i-2459...-389-block-4-250str.html?ref=category:1234862

Even if you decide to use the 389 block, I'd switch over to the later style heads, and the later style timing cover, balancer, water pump, pulleys, etc. The 389 heads have press-in studs, I assume, and need hardened valve seat inserts. They also have closed chambers, small intake valves, & I assume will produce 10:1 or more compression, on a 389-400 cube engine. 

I personally would go with 6x-8 heads, on a 421 or larger engine, and an 800cfm Q-jet from SMI or another good builder. 

http://www.smicarburetor.com/products/sfID1/28/sfID2/9/sfID3/100/productID/841

For an intake, I'd go with either a '72 iron or a single plane Chinese. If you want an exhaust crossover, and alum, I'd go with a Holley Street Dominator. There are usually some for sale on Ebay. 

Some like the RPM dual plane intake. There is also the Chinese version, without the crossover. 
If you prefer a Holley square carb, you can use any of these aftermarket alum intakes, plus a Torker 2.

"...Holley 650 CFM Quadrajet carb..."

Holley does make a 650 spreadbore carb. They will work on factory and aftermarket Q-jet intakes. But they are not very popular. Most Holley guys go square bore. 

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/hly-0-80555c/overview/

"... what cam to select...Comp Cam flat tappet hydraulic cam 212-218 duration @0.05" lift..."

Even with only 389-400 cubes that is a small cam. But, if you want a smooth idle & don't care about power above 5000rpm, it might be OK. I don't like most CC shelf cams. They usually have a 110 LSA. Most(but by no means all) think a 112-114 LSA is best for street driven Pontiacs. Most Crower & other brand name cams offer this LSA range. For a 389-400, I'd recommend something with close to 220 @ .050 intake duration. The Crower 60242 & 60916 come in at 221/229 @ .050 112 LSA.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/cro-60916

This Lunati is similar, with 221/230 @ .050 112 LSA

http://www.lunatipower.com/Product.aspx?id=1759&gid=278

This Crane has 222/234 @ .050 114 LSA

http://www.ebay.com/itm/283801-Crane-Cams-Hydraulic-Flat-Tappet-Camshaft-/231872791673

But, if you wanna stay with your 212 - 218 specs, a Summit 2801 will do that, and is cheap.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-2801

The above cams should work good with 9:1 or more CR. If you have closer to 8:1 CR I'd go with a Lunati Voodoo 262.

http://www.lunatipower.com/Product.aspx?id=1775

If you go with a stroker, & 9:1 or more duration, I'd go with something like a Crower 60243.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/cro-60243

A Summit 2802 would be a notch smaller. And a Howards 410051-14 would be a notch bigger. 

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-2802

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/hrs-410051-14/overview/make/pontiac

If you don't mind the "ticking" sound of Rhoads lifters, my choice would be an 041 clone such as a Melling SPC-8 or Crower 60919. Lunati, Comp, & Crane also have their version of this cam. The Melling is the cheapest.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Engine-Cams...ash=item1e9fa29126:g:e5wAAOSw7XZXgN6J&vxp=mtr

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/rhl-9518l/overview/make/pontiac

OR, for about a thousand more, you can go with a hyd roller set-up.


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## bigD (Jul 21, 2016)

Since you are in Calif & have near $10k to spend, I'd consider having it built in AZ, at Koerner Racing Engines. Paul Carter is the Pontiac guy there. He is highly recommended on the PY forum. 

https://www.google.com/search?q=koe...j69i57j0l2.23784j0j4&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8

https://www.google.com/search?q=car....69i57j0l2.38621j0j9&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8

There are several Pontiac class racers in CA. Might not hurt to contact some of them for a good machine shop reference. 

Lindy Lindholm, Leo Glasbrenner, John & Ryan Schole, Bob Aceves, and Kerri Angeles Pari are a few that come to mind.

Leo runs Remac Transmission. He might be the easiest to contact. 

https://www.yelp.com/biz/remac-transmission-san-dimas 

A Schloe family owns Schloe Machine Products. This might be Ryan & John. 

https://www.google.com/webhp?sourceid=chrome-instant&ion=1&espv=2&ie=UTF-8#q=schloe+machine+products

Don't know how to contact the others. 

https://www.facebook.com/robert.aceves.52/about?lst=100003361788810:1723608467:1485190155


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## mwprout (Oct 27, 2015)

bigD - great input!! I'll check out these references. What's your opinion on EFi systems out there? I've been looking at the Holley Sniper.
Thanks, MP


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## geeteeohguy (Feb 2, 2008)

Big D gave you some great info. Paul Carter at Koerner Racing Engines has a great rep, although I have never used his services. The consensus on the aftermarket electronic EFI is that they are expensive and very problematic. They are also all 'wet manifold' throttle body type, as opposed to the much more advanced 'real' fuel injection that uses injectors at each cylinder. Save your money and aggravation and go with a tripower set-up, a stock '68-'72 iron intake and a Q-Jet, or a Holley 650-750 on an appropriate aftermarket manifold like an Edelbrock. Me, I'd be inclined to keep it a 389 with the original crank, and upgrade the rods and go with dished pistons for a pump friendly engine. I kept the stock displacement on my '65 389 because there were no options back when I built it, and I'm glad I'm stock displacement on my '67 because it's reliable and sips gas instead of chugging it. The difference between an 8 mpg combo and a 21 mpg combo affects how much I enjoy a car because I'm cheaper than most! Strokers are neat, but not cheap.


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