# fuel pump



## Topkat (Sep 9, 2010)

I just got a fuel pump for my 67 Goat.
When I insert the arm into the TC cover it goes in all the way(under the eccentric like it's supposed to) but the bolt holes on the pump are too low to mate the pump to the TC cover.:willy:
If I pull the pump out about a 1/4'' the holes will line up.....:confused
I have rotated the cam eccentric several full revolutions to no avail.
thanks as always


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## dimitri (Feb 13, 2009)

It sounds like you are not getting that pump arm under the eccentric. Put a little grease on the top of the pump arm only where it makes contact with the eccentric and put it back in and then take it out. See if the grease is missing. If it is then you are putting it under the eccentric. Put the pump back in and try to push the arm down and push in at the same time. The holes should line up.


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## Topkat (Sep 9, 2010)

I put greese on the arm and it looks good.
I put the pump on with little effort.
when rotating the engine i heard a slight click about once a revolution.
I removed the pump completely and still hear the "click"
have never heard this sound before.
any ideas?


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## BearGFR (Aug 25, 2008)

Topkat said:


> I put greese on the arm and it looks good.
> I put the pump on with little effort.
> when rotating the engine i heard a slight click about once a revolution.
> I removed the pump completely and still hear the "click"
> ...


I hope you're not turning it over with the starter.... That very first start up is important. Make sure you fill the carb float bowl with fuel, take a "best Guess" at ignition timing, and when it catches don't let it idle --- you want it to run at 2000-2500 for at least 15 minutes to break in the cam and lifters.
After you get that done --- THEN you can let it idle, set the timing, etc. If it doesn't catch right away on the first try, don't keep grinding the starter - stop and figure out why - maybe move the timing a little - make sure it has fuel in the carb bowl(s), etc.

Bear


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## geeteeohguy (Feb 2, 2008)

I agree with Bear. If you're just turning it over by hand to assemble stuff, no issues. You need to find the "click" though. A missing tooth on the flywheel can do it, if it's clicking with the starter turning the engine over. Could be a rocker arm, loose pushrod, etc. etc....dipstick tube improperly installe, hitting the crank, etc.


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## Topkat (Sep 9, 2010)

Im just turning it over by hand.
we took the drivers side valve cover off and it seems like it's a different rocker arm each time making the soft click.
On the #1 cyl i noticed the pushrod is loose at some point(ie moves up and down loosly 1/16'th of an inch)!!
and some rocker arms move sideways more than others do.
The rocker arms are the only thing in the motor(besides the crank) that I didnt replace.
Ordered all 16. 
I didnt put any lube where the rocker arms and pushrods meet.
don't want to turn the motor anymore till i get new pushrods.
took the dipstick out and it's still happening


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## BearGFR (Aug 25, 2008)

Topkat said:


> On the #1 cyl i noticed the pushrod is loose at some point(ie moves up and down loosly 1/16'th of an inch)!!
> and some rocker arms move sideways more than others do.


Hey Top, If all the rockers are adjusted properly, there shouldn't be any clearance there --- i.e. you shouldn't be able to move them up and down like that. I'd go back through the adjusting process and see if that takes care of it. - sounds to me like they're too loose.

Bear


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## freethinker (Nov 14, 2009)

Topkat said:


> On the #1 cyl i noticed the pushrod is loose at some point(ie moves up and down loosly 1/16'th of an inch)!!
> and some rocker arms move sideways more than others do.
> The rocker arms are the only thing in the motor(besides the crank) that I didnt replace.
> Ordered all 16.


i forget. are you using adjusting nuts or factory bottoming nuts to adjust the valves?


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