# Parasitic drain on Battery



## Roqetman (Aug 31, 2015)

My '65 seems to have a parasitic drain that's killing the battery. I only thing that has power with the switch off is the in-dash clock which was converted to a quartz movement, the radio is not yet in the car. Does anyone have a good step-by-step process for checking this? Also, i replaced the ignition switch because the old one was temperamental. Both the old switch and the new one allow the engine to keep running if you switch it from on-to-off-to-accessory. Any thoughts on this? Thanks!


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## Goat Roper (Oct 28, 2014)

Check your voltage regulator, if it is mechanical and the points stick it will continue running once the ignition is switched off and will also cause the drain.


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## Roqetman (Aug 31, 2015)

Goat Roper said:


> Check your voltage regulator, if it is mechanical and the points stick it will continue running once the ignition is switched off and will also cause the drain.


My car has been converted to internal voltage regulator in the alternator and electronic ignition.


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## 1970 Lemans (Jul 25, 2009)

You might want to measure the degree of leakage (in amps) and then pull the fuse to the clock and see if the current use goes to zero or if there is any residual . I think I would then start disconnecting stuff (at the fuse box) and look for any additional change. As an aside, is there a glove box light on the 65? if so, maybe it is staying on (I had that problem with my 70)?


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## Roqetman (Aug 31, 2015)

1970 Lemans said:


> You might want to measure the degree of leakage (in amps) and then pull the fuse to the clock and see if the current use goes to zero or if there is any residual . I think I would then start disconnecting stuff (at the fuse box) and look for any additional change. As an aside, is there a glove box light on the 65? if so, maybe it is staying on (I had that problem with my 70)?


Thanks for the advice. I'll try checking it again by pulling fuses.


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## ALKYGTO (Mar 29, 2010)

Does your horn work? If not it could be the horn relay.


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## Roqetman (Aug 31, 2015)

Yes, the horn, dash lights, dome light, headlights, taillights, turn signals, backup lights, cigar lighter all work properly. I've been reinstalling the instrument panel and neither the radio nor glove box light are installed yet.


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## Goat Roper (Oct 28, 2014)

Try disconnecting the red wire on your alternator.
There is a diode (one way electrical valve) in internally regulated alternators and if it goes bad it will cause a drain.


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## Bruce Dodds (Sep 29, 2017)

these can be tough but if you keep at it and pull fuses and disconnect pieces one at a time you will find it


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## jjmnav (Dec 6, 2016)

I have a similar issue with my '68. Measured a 3.95 Amp draw, pulled all fuses and draw dropped to 0.28 Amp, with only the CLK-LTR-CTSY fuse pulled have 0.29 Amp (TAIL fuse seems add the extremely minor 0.01 Amp). 
The clock itself cannot pull 3 Amps or more can it?? Guess I'll find out when I pull power wire from it, but suspect I'll be checking everything on that fuse.
Still concerned about the almost third of an amp with all fuses pulled. Or should I expect that??
Hope Optima Red has as good of warrantee as I remember - I may have worn this one out in less than 2 years.


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