# Clutch slave cyl.



## BlackoutV (May 19, 2009)

Hey guys, so yesterday I did a bunch of work on the goat, after it sat all winter long. I changed the engine oil with mobil 1 full synthetic, changed the trans fluid with oem gm stuff, new wiper blades, and a new ac belt. I did a bunch of research, and followed instructions on how to PROPERLY change the trans fluid...what a PITA. Anyhooo, its done. However, I think my clutch slave has leaked a bit, and is starting to fail. Ever since it sat over the winter, the very top of the clutch pedal has some play in it, and the trans has been stubborn changing gears, as in its catching slightly and is not as smooth as it should be. I did some more research and i see that this car has a conical slave cyl, which is inside the transmission, which makes it a friggen PAIN. What do you guys think I should do? The car only has 30k miles and change on it...would that be covered under a factory warranty or anything? I really don't want to have to pull the trans just to replace the stupid clutch slave. I also saw something about a remote bleeder kit, where if I do end up having to replace the clutch slave, I will probably buy that kit as well. 

My real question to you guys is, whats the best way to attack this problem? Thanks in advance for your guys input....

- Dave


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## BlackoutV (May 19, 2009)

Just to add to this, I just called the dealer that my father purchased the car from to see if it would still be covered under the warranty, and it is within the 36,000 mile warranty, but its been more than 3 years, so they can't warranty anything of it. Looks like I'm gonna have to figure this one out on my own...

Is it possible to pull the trans while the motor is still bolted in? I didn't really look that far into it while i was under the car yesterday...


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## svede1212 (Nov 1, 2005)

I'd replace the slave ASAP. It can catastrophically fail and leave you stranded. To get at it you don't touch the motor. It is a pain but you drop the exhaust, take off the drive shaft, pull the center console top and disconnect the shifter handle. Then you unbolt the trans mount bracket's 4 bolts. Just let the trans hang while you remove the electrical plugs from the trans and take out the 8 bolts holding the trans on the bell housing. A Harbor Freight trans jack is a huge help. That sucker is heavy. The slave bolts with 2 bolts to trans around the input shaft. A remote bleeder will make bleeding and fluid change a snap and if you're going to swap out the shifter now is the time.

As you probably know don't get a dealer inflated price slave. The same one at Advance Auto is $65. Here's a pic of a failed.










and here's mine with the stock clutch line replaced with a braided one and a braided remote bleeder.










Where the red dots are are the 8 bolts where the transmission mounts.


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