# twin turbo or supercharger



## jradke123 (Apr 18, 2008)

lol ok thanks to rukee its ether a supercharger or twin turbo and i know nothing about ether so guys please help me out here


----------



## Aramz06 (Mar 2, 2008)

How do you make these big decisions about things you dont know about? It would take me atleast a month to decide if I want to SC or Boost my goat, and I understand somewhat about both... You just decided within a matter of hours dude... lots of money, and if you dont know how to handle it.. LOTS of problems. Think it over.


----------



## jradke123 (Apr 18, 2008)

ha well my cars in the shop right now and i dont get it back until august 1 so i have a lot of time to think


----------



## 6QTS11OZ (Mar 27, 2005)

If you really don't know which system to get call a few reputable performance shop that sells both and get their opinion. Then tell them how you plan on driving your car. Keep in mind driveability, practicality, maintainability, etc. Once you've got a clear understanding of both systems then the question of cost should be discussed. As the power increases the cost of supporting mods will increase. You already have quite a few mods but there is much more to add such as an upgraded fuel system, suspension, brakes, forged internals (as an insurance measure), drive line components (half shafts, clutch, driveshaft, rear end) depending on how crazy you get with the power, etc. I have well over 12K into my Maggie system and supporting mods and I still have about a minimum of 7K in mods that I want to do. Anyway, talk to the professionals and get ready to fork out large amounts of cash.


----------



## hsv (Jun 11, 2007)

6QTS11OZ said:


> If you really don't know which system to get call a few reputable performance shop that sells both and get their opinion. Then tell them how you plan on driving your car. Keep in mind driveability, practicality, maintainability, etc. Once you've got a clear understanding of both systems then the question of cost should be discussed. As the power increases the cost of supporting mods will increase. You already have quite a few mods but there is much more to add such as an upgraded fuel system, suspension, brakes, forged internals (as an insurance measure), drive line components (half shafts, clutch, driveshaft, rear end) depending on how crazy you get with the power, etc. I have well over 12K into my Maggie system and supporting mods and I still have about a minimum of 7K in mods that I want to do. Anyway, talk to the professionals and get ready to fork out large amounts of cash.


Hi 6Q:

Just wondering what were the deciding factors for you in going with a Maggie v. a TT like APS and what conditions you have your car setup for. How much weight does the Maggie add to the front (100 lbs?).

I was also wondering if anyone has done a side by side comparison of TQ/HP curves for the two setups. *One* day I'm going to add FI to my goat, but not for a while yet (driver mod first, then suspension, then FI).

Cheers,

HSV.


----------



## koman (Sep 25, 2006)

hsv said:


> *One* day I'm going to add FI to my goat, but not for a while yet (driver mod first, then suspension, then FI).


 then add some more driver mod to take care of your newfound power. 

as 6 qts is saying stuff costs moola and lots of it. picking on him but with all due respect to him, he's got over 12k into his FI and is ONLY making 516 to the wheel but i think he was making something like 560 to the wheels at one time too. it gets costly and then to think of the supporting mods to keep the car "safe". i was looking at a custom built twin turbo set up for mine to put down 650 to the wheels with some room to go up and for that i was ball parking around 12k but that was without suspension mods and such. was going to replace it as it broke. read up on what you are doing so you'll know the proper questions to ask not only to learn something but to make sure your shop knows what they are doing or your rep is not just selling you a line of crap. both systems will increase heat. BIG TIME, keep that in mind and also the method you will use your car in afterwards. DDing a 500-600 rhwp car through the rain is not like driving your momma's honda through anything except maybe clay mud. but also remember that anything can be DD'ed through any condition as long as you realize what you are dealing with. if you plan on dragging your car or doing runs from a dig i wouldn't really suggest turbos due to turbo lag which can be "eliminate" with picking the right impellor and housing combination for your set up and powerband. once you see the delivery tables you'll wish you never asked about it. also there's maintainance with turbo systems and depending on the type of bearings you get will depend on your costs and downtimes to rebuild it. for instance the shop i dealt with could rebuild the journal bearing turbos for 100 bucks a piece. for the ball bearing turbos they had to send them off to be redone at a cost of 250 or so. spool up is about the same between the two if you select the proper curves and such. there's alot to "know" on both before you pull the trigger. i don't feel like a month is enough time to learn all you need, no matter how smart you are.(and you might be a kaliedoscope scientist for all i know) good luck and happy motoring. also look at procharger centrifugal superchargers. not just roots style or turbos.:cheers


----------



## jmd (Sep 29, 2006)

koman said:


> then add some more driver mod to take care of your newfound power.
> 
> as 6 qts is saying stuff costs moola and lots of it. picking on him but with all due respect to him, he's got over 12k into his FI and is ONLY making 516 to the wheel but i think he was making something like 560 to the wheels at one time too. it gets costly and then to think of the supporting mods to keep the car "safe". i was looking at a custom built twin turbo set up for mine to put down 650 to the wheels with some room to go up and for that i was ball parking around 12k but that was without suspension mods and such. was going to replace it as it broke. read up on what you are doing so you'll know the proper questions to ask not only to learn something but to make sure your shop knows what they are doing or your rep is not just selling you a line of crap. both systems will increase heat. BIG TIME, keep that in mind and also the method you will use your car in afterwards. DDing a 500-600 rhwp car through the rain is not like driving your momma's honda through anything except maybe clay mud. but also remember that anything can be DD'ed through any condition as long as you realize what you are dealing with. if you plan on dragging your car or doing runs from a dig i wouldn't really suggest turbos due to turbo lag which can be "eliminate" with picking the right impellor and housing combination for your set up and powerband. once you see the delivery tables you'll wish you never asked about it. also there's maintainance with turbo systems and depending on the type of bearings you get will depend on your costs and downtimes to rebuild it. for instance the shop i dealt with could rebuild the journal bearing turbos for 100 bucks a piece. for the ball bearing turbos they had to send them off to be redone at a cost of 250 or so. spool up is about the same between the two if you select the proper curves and such. there's alot to "know" on both before you pull the trigger. i don't feel like a month is enough time to learn all you need, no matter how smart you are.(and you might be a kaliedoscope scientist for all i know) good luck and happy motoring. also look at procharger centrifugal superchargers. not just roots style or turbos.:cheers


tell me about it. go procharger. i got mine from epp out of Indiana. he is a sponsor. he is the best. he did mine.


----------



## 6QTS11OZ (Mar 27, 2005)

hsv said:


> Hi 6Q:
> 
> Just wondering what were the deciding factors for you in going with a Maggie v. a TT like APS and what conditions you have your car setup for. How much weight does the Maggie add to the front (100 lbs?).
> 
> ...


Being in California limits what you can do to your ride. At the time there were no Cali emissions legal turbo kits available. Honestly I'm still not sure there is. I'm sure any turbo kit out there can be tuned to pass the sniffer but not the visual, depending on how performance savvy the referee is. The Maggie for me was an easy decision. Out of the box it provides enough power to get me in trouble and the installation was a breeze. The first dyno showed 433 to the wheels before a good tune. The initial tune got me to 470 rwhp. From there I added a 2.7" front pulley (stock one was 2.9"), got a retune and it put me at the 501rwhp/480rwtq. Supporting mods are LPE CAI, JBA ceramic shorties, JBA high flow cats and mids, Magnaflow catback with x pipe. Shortly after that tune I started the the car one day and heard a knock. Without hesitation I had the engine removed a couple of days later. That's were over 5K of my total cost came from. $1500 of that was R & R of the engine. I went ahead and installed a small cam (Lingenfelter GT2-3 & GM performance springs), forged pistons (Mahle-10.4:1 CR), forged connecting rods (Manley), upgraded bearings (cam and crank) and had the engine bored .005" over. I also have a Spec 3 clutch and flywheel (handles over 800 lb. ft. of torque), 1-piece aluminum driveshaft, GMM Ripshifter, drag bags and Pedders rear drag springs. My Maggie was shipped to my door for $5412. Oh, I put a Walbro 255 fuel pump in too. The cam helped me recover a slight drop in hp from the lower compression pistons but I still ended up with 516/500 on a very safe tune with the A/F ratio being 11.7:1. 

I weighed my car about a week ago and it weighed 3740-3760 lbs. (the high winds made the reading fluctuate) with 16 gallons of fuel aboard. The spare tire, jack and accessories were in the trunk too. I removed the skid plate and Y-brace. I think most of the weight reduction came from the headers and full exhaust replacement. The stock radio was heavier than my new head unit too. LOL! The TSW Thruxton wheels, eventhough they're 19", probably saved me 10 lbs.+ (each) over the stock 17".

My car was set up as a more than average street car. I suck at drag racing so that definitely was not what I was after.  

I'm may be leaving something out but that's about it in a nutshell.


----------



## hsv (Jun 11, 2007)

6QTS11OZ said:


> Being in California limits what you can do to your ride. At the time there were no Cali emissions legal turbo kits available. Honestly I'm still not sure there is. I'm sure any turbo kit out there can be tuned to pass the sniffer but not the visual, depending on how performance savvy the referee is. The Maggie for me was an easy decision. Out of the box it provides enough power to get me in trouble and the installation was a breeze. The first dyno showed 433 to the wheels before a good tune. The initial tune got me to 470 rwhp. From there I added a 2.7" front pulley (stock one was 2.9"), got a retune and it put me at the 501rwhp/480rwtq. Supporting mods are LPE CAI, JBA ceramic shorties, JBA high flow cats and mids, Magnaflow catback with x pipe. Shortly after that tune I started the the car one day and heard a knock. Without hesitation I had the engine removed a couple of days later. That's were over 5K of my total cost came from. $1500 of that was R & R of the engine. I went ahead and installed a small cam (Lingenfelter GT2-3 & GM performance springs), forged pistons (Mahle-10.4:1 CR), forged connecting rods (Manley), upgraded bearings (cam and crank) and had the engine bored .005" over. I also have a Spec 3 clutch and flywheel (handles over 800 lb. ft. of torque), 1-piece aluminum driveshaft, GMM Ripshifter, drag bags and Pedders rear drag springs. My Maggie was shipped to my door for $5412. Oh, I put a Walbro 255 fuel pump in too. The cam helped me recover a slight drop in hp from the lower compression pistons but I still ended up with 516/500 on a very safe tune with the A/F ratio being 11.7:1.
> 
> I weighed my car about a week ago and it weighed 3740-3760 lbs. (the high winds made the reading fluctuate) with 16 gallons of fuel aboard. The spare tire, jack and accessories were in the trunk too. I removed the skid plate and Y-brace. I think most of the weight reduction came from the headers and full exhaust replacement. The stock radio was heavier than my new head unit too. LOL! The TSW Thruxton wheels, eventhough they're 19", probably saved me 10 lbs.+ (each) over the stock 17".
> 
> ...


Hi 6QTS:

Thanks for all of the details, that is great! I think "more than average street car" is a bit of an understatement 

Cheers,

HSV.


----------



## bigcountry (Mar 28, 2007)

Go with the supercharger, it's made for the big blocks, turbos go better with you're smaller engines


----------

