# chassis restoration question



## sgav24 (Jun 30, 2009)

whats up guys, i have a 1970 GTO hardtop and me and my dad have decided to restore this badboy, i have a really simple question. unfortunately im new to the restoration scene and ive noticed alot of you know your stuff.

i just want to know what parts of the car need to be sandblasted and powdercoated. chassis, control arms, the rear differential will most likely be rebuilt, but does it need powdercoating? if ya could, just give me a list of things to be powdered so i can relay this to my dad. thanks!


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## 05GTO (Oct 6, 2004)

I sandblasted, primed and painted my entire chassis including the control arms and differential. If the cost of powdercoating is not a problem that would be a nice way to go.


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## geeteeohguy (Feb 2, 2008)

No parts on a 1970 GTO NEED to be powdercoated. They never were powdercoated. I agree with the above post, tho'. If it's your thing to powdercoat, and you want to spend the $$$, go for it. Me, I'm not into it.


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## Fred007 (Jul 23, 2008)

One thing to keep in mind, if you do powdercoat the rear end, it will most likely need to be empty of fluids and cleaned out. At least that is what they told me when I was thinking about that. I went the paint route and am happy with that choice. On my current project, just sprayed the frame with Eastwood chassis primer and will do the satin black shortly.


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## Eric Animal (Oct 28, 2007)

Powder coating requires baking in an oven at about 400-450 degrees. you will need to remove ANYTHING that can't stand heat.


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## MaL (Jun 12, 2008)

I had the following blasted and powdered-
Frame
Transmission crossmember
All rear control arms
and Diff/axle tube

These pieces were fully disassembled with all bearings and bushings removed. My car needed a full tear down and new rear gears, so it was nice to get the powdering in place while it was all apart.

This isn't stock looking anymore, but I like it and most of it is hidden underneath anyways.


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## crustysack (Oct 5, 2008)

I went the sandblast and then POR-15 route- considerably less than powdercoating and the paint is bulletproof- I also stripped and painted the entire bottom of the car- the fire wall, the inner fenders, bumper brackets, hood springs,gas tank,trunk,sway bars,inside of the roof, windshield recess- pretty much anything that could ever rust, I did all of this with about 2 gallons of POR-15- that I got on ebay for $89 per gal. I went with gloss so it would be easier to clean- and all of that was done with a BRUSH no spraying at all


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## Rukee (Feb 8, 2007)

crustysack said:


> I went the sandblast and then POR-15 route- considerably less than powdercoating and the paint is bulletproof- I also stripped and painted the entire bottom of the car- the fire wall, the inner fenders, bumper brackets, hood springs,gas tank,trunk,sway bars,inside of the roof, windshield recess- pretty much anything that could ever rust, I did all of this with about 2 gallons of POR-15- that I got on ebay for $89 per gal. I went with gloss so it would be easier to clean- and all of that was done with a BRUSH no spraying at all


although that look isn't 'correct', it tends to win tropheys at the car shows.


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## Fred007 (Jul 23, 2008)

I agree with the POR-15, use it on my Jeep all the time and it really works, and looks nice enough with a brush. I am not using it on the GTO because I didn't want the gloss finish, trying Eastwoods Ceramic Chassis Black Satin. Once I spray it on, will post a picture or two. Here is the frame with the black extreme primer on it.


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## 1971greenGTO (Jan 27, 2009)

WOW. this all looks great. I would like to perform a frame off to mine. unfortunately I don't even have a garage...


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