# ugghhh...I feel like such a noob



## virginiavenom (Feb 20, 2011)

I hate carb'd motors. lol. so, I'm wondering why I'm not getting fuel yet. I've got the fuel line dropped into the 5 gallon gas can under the back of the car, the edelbrock 110 pump is in place, and should be pulling fuel....cranked on it and chemtooled with it for probably 30-45 minutes. battery on a charger, motor cranks over well, just not getting it to my fuel log....couldn't get any fuel up to the log with that much cranking. 

any ideas guys? it seemed to fire and rotate with the chemtool, but I think I am missing something. I'll try again this weekend, I have to get some transmission lines to the radiator. things are driving me crazy on this 350....wish I could find a new GTO that was wrecked so I could put a fuel injected 6.0 in this thig. :willy:


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## Rukee (Feb 8, 2007)

Pump connected properly?? Holes in the fuel line or rubber hoses between the tank and pump?? Damaged pick up screen in the tank?? There IS fuel in the tank, right??


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## ALKYGTO (Mar 29, 2010)

You took the line loose at the carb/log and you've got fuel pressure there right?

Is the pump primed? Electric pumps don't like to pull fuel uphill. Are you using an electric pump and a mechanical pump? Either way, the pump must be primed with fuel.


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## virginiavenom (Feb 20, 2011)

mechanical. please tell me how to prime
no idea. the fuel line is dropped into a fuel can, fuel can is full, 5 gallon can, fuel line hose almost reaches the bottom. no pressure. carb worked great when removed from our chevy 350 we had in a race car. (working a little over 2 weeks ago just fine, no adjustments or changes, same fuel log too. no holes in the lines etc. didn't know they had to be primed.

yes, pump is installed and plumbed correctly.


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## Instg8ter (Sep 28, 2010)

I use a large volume syringe and suck it up the line from just in front of the fuel pump then push it on the pump and the gas will siphon feed the pump bowl . Squirt whats in the syringe down the upper hose before you attach to the fuel log. a few cranks and you should have gas at the carb.


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## ALKYGTO (Mar 29, 2010)

Fuel must be higher than the pump. break the fitting at the pump loose and wait till you see gas seep out. tighten it up then break the fitting loose at the carb and crank it with the coil wire off until you see fuel there.


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## virginiavenom (Feb 20, 2011)

hell, I thought it was pretty high, but I guess not....I can see how this would cause a problem. didn't think about that. what is the best way to set the timing on this sucker? I have an MSD 6AL and an MSD Pro-Comp distributor and coil. the distributor is supposed to have either vacuum advance, centrifigul advance, and some other advance. I would imagine a vacuum advance is the one it is setup for out of the box since it is supposed to be a ready to run distributor. thoughts?


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## ALKYGTO (Mar 29, 2010)

Vacuum advance will have the little vac pot on the side. For initial startup I guess I'd get #1 up on top, set the dist to that and try to crank her over then do your fine adjustments. You've always got to play with em a little.


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## virginiavenom (Feb 20, 2011)

it has the vacuum pot on the side, but it's capped. do I need to hook that up? what would be the best system for advancing the timing, I'm guessing vacuum should work well.


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## BearGFR (Aug 25, 2008)

All the various types of advance work together - it's not an either/or deal. Centrifugal/mechanical is there to adjust advance in relationship to rpm - you have to light the fire earlier as rpm goes up. Vacuum is there to add additional advance under lightly loaded conditions to help with fuel economy.

Generally you tune the centrifugal/mechanical advance to suit your engine to optimize power, then "add back in" the vacuum for part throttle economy/efficiency.

How much advance depends on which heads you have and other things, but my opinion is that the best way to set timing is sort of a trial and error deal. You need either a timing light capable of reading "total advance" or a timing tape accurately installed on the balancer. Disconnect the vacuum advance (and plug the line) and slowly run up the rpm until you find the point where the amount of advance quits increasing - then at that rpm, set the total advance to 34 degrees as a starting point. Reconnect everything and road test the car (better on a drag strip or some place where you can actually time-measure performance). Repeat the process and bump up the amount of timing by a degree or two - then test again. Keep doing that until you find the point where performance starts to drop off, then set the total advance back to wherever the peak was. Now you can disconnect and plug the line again, then use the light to see what your initial timing measurement is so that in the future you'll be able to return to the optimum setting without having to go through that whole process again.

Bear


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## virginiavenom (Feb 20, 2011)

ok...figured it all out...all the problems I've been having starting it came down to one simple piece of critical information I wasn't given about the motor that was built on this car. the concentric pulley doesn't exist. the fuel pump wasn't pumping anything because it was never intended to have a damn manual fuel pump on it. the opening was there....it wasn't marked, or properly covered, it just had duct tape over it when I bought the car....car sounds good. beginning the wiring mess tomorrow....yay.


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## Instg8ter (Sep 28, 2010)

oooops!!!....lol, glad to hear you got it figured out, sounds liek they were intending an elec. fuel pump.


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## virginiavenom (Feb 20, 2011)

pontiac first idle - Car Videos on StreetFire

idle run.


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## virginiavenom (Feb 20, 2011)

yeah, they were. he said didn't I tell you....I said no...little details like that are extremely important. so...I have a 110lph edelbrock chrome fuel pump if anyone is interested for a pontiac 350. never truly run...lol


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## Instg8ter (Sep 28, 2010)

no vid came up?


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## ALKYGTO (Mar 29, 2010)

Ha ha, OP _is_ a noob! 

No vid to watch. :confused


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## virginiavenom (Feb 20, 2011)

wtf? it should be working....

try this one.






streetfire didn't like it at all....I re-uploaded twice...no dice. here it is though. this one worked.

got the gauge cluster together today...some are functional....much to do still....guy who had the car did some really ghetto rigging stuff.


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## Instg8ter (Sep 28, 2010)

Cool!!!...boy you can hear the difference between that and a SBC 350, nothin sounds quite like a Pontiac.....:cheers


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## virginiavenom (Feb 20, 2011)

lol. fellas, I'm uploading another now with my tac and oil pressure and what not....I had to adjust the idle....that video was idling about 450 RPM. new video coming. btw, this is open tubular headers.


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## virginiavenom (Feb 20, 2011)




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## virginiavenom (Feb 20, 2011)

another question fellas, I'm trying to get the wiring in order here, and I'm wondering what brake pedal switch assembly to get. I apparently do not have one. I have had to completely rewire the car front to back using a painless kit. which has done well. but it has a good long way to go.


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## jetstang (Nov 5, 2008)

Get the stock brake pedal switch?? Simple switch, power in, out to lights. Should be a hole in the bracket for it?
Sounds great!


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## BearGFR (Aug 25, 2008)

On my 69, there's a tab with a hole in it that sits in front of the brake pedal lever arm ("in front of" means between the lever arm and the driver). The brake switch itself is a relatively simple plastic push-button with a long threaded barrel that screws into the hole on the tab. You adjust it by how far it's screwed into the hole, so that when the brake is "off" the lever arm hits the push-button and opens the switch. Pressing on the brake pedal moves the lever arm off the button, closing the switch, and activating the brake lights.

Holler if you want a photo of it.

Bear


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## virginiavenom (Feb 20, 2011)

yeah, photo please bear, sounds like a reverse momentary switch.


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## BearGFR (Aug 25, 2008)

That's exactly what it is. It's a normally closed switch. Releasing the button closes it, depressing the button opens it. Stepping on the brake pedal moves the arm off the button, allowing it to close, sending power to the brake lights.

I'll have to get photos when I get home tonight.

Bear


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## Instg8ter (Sep 28, 2010)

Gotcha covered Bear, here you go VV switch is the threaded barrel to the right


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