# New Rear Springs



## pocketmaster (Feb 26, 2010)

I'm looking to get some new rear springs, 05/M6, and I already know the stock springs on these vehicles are total crap. I have been researching and from what I'm seeing simply replacing the springs will "usually" fix the camber problem with the rear wheels. Is this accurate for the most part??


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## Steamwalker (Mar 9, 2012)

Sounds about right. 

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## svede1212 (Nov 1, 2005)

Rear shocks help as well as the stock ones are about as stiff as a screen door closer. Between the shocks and springs you get less squat so less camber change on cornering and launching.


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## johni53 (Feb 10, 2010)

svede1212 said:


> Rear shocks help as well as the stock ones are about as stiff as a screen door closer. Between the shocks and springs you get less squat so less camber change on cornering and launching.


So this should help with that inside tread wear I've been experiencing on the rear tires? Just put on some new Michelin Super Sports I really like and would hate to see them go before their time.


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## pocketmaster (Feb 26, 2010)

svede1212 said:


> Rear shocks help as well as the stock ones are about as stiff as a screen door closer. Between the shocks and springs you get less squat so less camber change on cornering and launching.


So changing the springs and shocks will actually HELP with the launch?? I know launching from a dig in these vehicles is not the vehicles strong point, but less squat will make it better??


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## svede1212 (Nov 1, 2005)

johni53 said:


> So this should help with that inside tread wear I've been experiencing on the rear tires? Just put on some new Michelin Super Sports I really like and would hate to see them go before their time.


Yes. I also found out that replacing the control arm bushings with fixed poly bushings helped too. After I did springs, shocks and bushings I found even with with 20mm drop springs my rear tire wear was very good. The control arm which connects the subframe to the wheel is held by the inner and outer bushing with a fair amount of slop and compliance. Poly helps hold the arm true.



pocketmaster said:


> So changing the springs and shocks will actually HELP with the launch?? I know launching from a dig in these vehicles is not the vehicles strong point, but less squat will make it better??


Squat can be a good thing but with our IRS it increases camber the further it goes. That makes your tire start to lift off the outside of the tire and shift it to the inside (evidenced by inner tire wear). Less tire patch on the ground less traction.


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## pocketmaster (Feb 26, 2010)

svede1212 said:


> Yes. I also found out that replacing the control arm bushings with fixed poly bushings helped too. After I did springs, shocks and bushings I found even with with 20mm drop springs my rear tire wear was very good. The control arm which connects the subframe to the wheel is held by the inner and outer bushing with a fair amount of slop and compliance. Poly helps hold the arm true.
> 
> 
> 
> Squat can be a good thing but with our IRS it increases camber the further it goes. That makes your tire start to lift off the outside of the tire and shift it to the inside (evidenced by inner tire wear). Less tire patch on the ground less traction.


I have been seeing lowering kits when searching for replacement springs. Honestly I do like the lower look, but not RICER low if you get my meaning. Being that the rear springs are currently causing the rear to seat "low", getting a lowering kit would keep the height of the rear...the same as it sits now?? I realize it also lowers the front which may look pretty sharp, so long as its not too low.


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## svede1212 (Nov 1, 2005)

20mm (3/4") is about as much drop as you can go without starting to do adjustable camber stuff to try to keep the tires flat. Greater than that you also then need different dampers made for it. There is only about 2 1/2" of travel in the suspension so when you go just for crazy dropped looks you end up with style over function.


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## boosted6.0gto (Nov 16, 2013)

I went with Lowell's zero drop springs and just transferred my drag bags. It's day and night. Even with out air in the bags it hits hard on shifts with virtually no wheel hop. I also swapped out the shocks with Monroe's from autozone.


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## BlkSuede (Oct 29, 2013)

boosted6.0gto said:


> I went with Lowell's zero drop springs and just transferred my drag bags. It's day and night. Even with out air in the bags it hits hard on shifts with virtually no wheel hop. I also swapped out the shocks with Monroe's from autozone.
> 
> How do you like the Monroe's compared to stock? I'm considering them as well & either Lovells or Pedders springs. Does yours ride about the same as stock or a little harder/softer?


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## pocketmaster (Feb 26, 2010)

svede1212 said:


> 20mm (3/4") is about as much drop as you can go without starting to do adjustable camber stuff to try to keep the tires flat. Greater than that you also then need different dampers made for it. There is only about 2 1/2" of travel in the suspension so when you go just for crazy dropped looks you end up with style over function.


So if I stay around a 1/2" drop I should be ok ?? Thats about all I would go for anyway just because I do not like the "slammed" look.


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## pocketmaster (Feb 26, 2010)

I have also noticed when I break traction my rear end slides to the right, pretty drastically in my opinion. Could this be caused from the poor suspension in the rear??


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## Steamwalker (Mar 9, 2012)

Or diff.


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## svede1212 (Nov 1, 2005)

I think you'll find the 20mm drop perfect. You're probably at that or lower now. The tire will still be clear at the top of the opening. I agree it sounds like your posi is giving a one wheel peel


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## pocketmaster (Feb 26, 2010)

svede1212 said:


> I think you'll find the 20mm drop perfect. You're probably at that or lower now. The tire will still be clear at the top of the opening. I agree it sounds like your posi is giving a one wheel peel


My TC is off.....is there a test for this?? If it is what could be the cause??


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## boosted6.0gto (Nov 16, 2013)

BlkSuede said:


> boosted6.0gto said:
> 
> 
> > I went with Lowell's zero drop springs and just transferred my drag bags. It's day and night. Even with out air in the bags it hits hard on shifts with virtually no wheel hop. I also swapped out the shocks with Monroe's from autozone.
> ...


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## svede1212 (Nov 1, 2005)

I've never seen a spring that stopped wheel hop. Axles and tires will do much more that that. There are too many other important contributors with an IRS and the springs are a minor part.

pocketmaster TC has nothing to do with actual traction at the rear wheels. That's a mechanical thing in the differential. The only thing you have control of is the amount of friction modifier in the diff lube. Our rear end has a "cone" shaped piece in a mating "socket" pushed by springs. It's the friction of those two surfaces that either grips or slips. One of the cheaper improvements to our rear end it to have a spring kit of stonger springs installed. 

The other is to change the fluid with Torco and add 1/2 to 3/4 the recommended (Type FM) amount of friction modifier and then take the car out for a short drive. Do a pretty slow hard turn each way and listen if you hear any pops coming from the diff. If you do add a small amount of friction modifier. Repeat until the popping sound goes away. Now you've adjusted as much two wheel grip as the diff has left in it.


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## pocketmaster (Feb 26, 2010)

svede1212 said:


> I've never seen a spring that stopped wheel hop. Axles and tires will do much more that that. There are too many other important contributors with an IRS and the springs are a minor part.
> 
> pocketmaster TC has nothing to do with actual traction at the rear wheels. That's a mechanical thing in the differential. The only thing you have control of is the amount of friction modifier in the diff lube. Our rear end has a "cone" shaped piece in a mating "socket" pushed by springs. It's the friction of those two surfaces that either grips or slips. One of the cheaper improvements to our rear end it to have a spring kit of stonger springs installed.
> 
> The other is to change the fluid with Torco and add 1/2 to 3/4 the recommended (Type FM) amount of friction modifier and then take the car out for a short drive. Do a pretty slow hard turn each way and listen if you hear any pops coming from the diff. If you do add a small amount of friction modifier. Repeat until the popping sound goes away. Now you've adjusted as much two wheel grip as the diff has left in it.


When I bought the vehicle three years ago I changed the rear diff fluid myself to Royal Purple. I understand it has the FM already in it, is that correct??


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