# Corroded Fuse Block......



## 68greengoat (Sep 15, 2005)

I thought I saw a post somewhere where they recommended how to clean the fuse holders from corrosion and make them shiny again short of installing a new block?

I installed a volt meter and attached grounds for other gauges that weren't connected. Had lost all lights except headlights, flasher and dome. Thought something went wrong when I was under the dash. Turns out, I think it was just a cowinky dink. Fuses checked out fine, except one looked like it almost had an oily substance thru the glass. Reinstalled it and all the lights came on. Going to replace the fuse anyway. However, it could have been a result of removing and reinstalling it and it made a better connection. The fuse block is original. Can't make out any of the labels. Thankfully, I have a manual which shows what is what.

I've had a Painless fuse block for a couple of years. I'm hesitant to take the plunge and start cutting wires and transfer them to the new block. Everything is labeled on the block, but I see multiple ign switches. I'm just concerned about melting everything as soon as I power it up and hit the ignition... Anybody convert to this Painless block? For now, I'd just like to clean up what I have....

Here's some pix....


----------



## jetstang (Nov 5, 2008)

Get some electrical contact cleaner, and spray it down with that after wire brushing all the terminals clean. My fuse block is crappy in my 70, think it had a windshield leak at some time. I've never did a painless, but it will make it better, except you have to splice everything and make more problems if not done right..


----------



## pontiac (Mar 6, 2011)

more typical problem these days are that some glass fuses are poor quality and they lose conductivity under the ends so the fuse is not blown, but the fuse ends have failed under the metal where those caps connect to the fusible link inside the glass tube.


----------



## onetwomany (Apr 22, 2011)

That process does not sound painless??? I bought a dash harness from Y.O. for my 65. Its an exact duplicate of the original harness. I'm in the process of installing the dash panel and will then plug in the connectors and guage lights and keep my fingers crossed when I apply power.


----------



## Eric Animal (Oct 28, 2007)

I got a new harness from M&H...it is an exact duplicate of the original with better insulation.......a lot of $$$$$ ($400, if I remember correctly).....E


----------



## 66tempestGT (Nov 28, 2009)

i used a dremmel tool on mine.


----------



## 68greengoat (Sep 15, 2005)

Thanks for the info, gents... Using a dremel tool was one of the options I thought would work good. Bought one from Harbor Freight awhile ago. What a piece of crap. Get what you pay for. The variable speed switch is screwed up to where I really can't use it. I see Dremel makes a kit that has an additional power tool that is alot smaller than the standard one. Thought that would work good on the fuse panel.

Electrical contact cleaner sounds like it would work too. As far as the Painless panel, I figure if I could mount it close enough to where the original one is, I shouldn't have to splice wires. However, being that it's much larger, that may not be feasible....


----------

