# Front Brake line installation



## VettenGoat (Jun 19, 2007)

Has anyone (with a 64-67 manual brakes) replaced their front brake lines?
If so did you do it with the engine in place or did you have to push it out of the mounts?

I just replaced the leaking original master cylinder, only to find the right front wheel cylinder was leaking, so we replaced that. (All four wheel cylinders have now been replaced). While bleeding the system, we blew the hard brake line that runs under the motor and to the right wheel cylinder. Bought a new set of front brake lines from PY, only to find the every one of the four original fittings is solidly seized into the brake junction block on the frame beneath the master cylinder and all partially rounded. Used a flare wrench and busted knuckles on the steering column, exhaust manifold, and upper A frame. Finally, I pulled out the torch, and fighting the urge to roast the damn Goat where it sat, I heated the junction block and soaked it in penetrating oil. While that is marinating, I took a look at the new brake lines. An now the million dollar question.

Can I even install the long line that goes from the junction block on the left to the wheel cylinder on the right without pushing the motor out? Would love to hear from anyone who has replaced the front brake lines and what you had to do to install them. (it's on 1965, but the experience of a 64-66 drum/non power brakes should be applicable. Appreciate your thoughts//Mike


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## pontiac (Mar 6, 2011)

on 67 no problem with engine in car. use visegrips to get old nuts loose as long as you are going to replace them.


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## VettenGoat (Jun 19, 2007)

Planning on reusing the front to rear line, so am trying not to get to the put of destroying the nuts. Sears had a set of two adjustable three sided wrenches on sale so that was excuse enough to buy them. I came damn close to pulling out the dremel with a cutting wheel on more than one occassion.

I'm curious how you got it in without pushing the motor out of the mounts. Did you install from the front of the cross frame or from the direction behind the cross member. 

It has 67 RA exhaust manifolds on it. 

Mike


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## the65gto (Oct 9, 2008)

I won't say it can't be done with the engine in place, however it is difficult especially if you are working with the car on the ground. My 65 brake lines are clipped on the frame, and very close to the pan, tried to remove them did not have much luck. Replaced them several years ago with the engine out, was a breeze but have recently bought a stainless steel set. I plan to lift the engine up to get at it, I figure a couple of inches should be enough:confused IF you have a lift, might be easier. I usually start soaking the nuts with solvent at least a week before hand, and if they don't co-operate the vice grips come out. p.s. You said "push" it out of the mounts? I would lift it out. Oil pans do cave in and makes the pickup sit on the bottom of the pan.


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## peahrens (Jun 7, 2010)

In '92 tried to do this with my '66 rebuild. The engine was out, did the suspension and wanted to put new brake lines, at least up front. Could not get them undone at the 3-way fitting on the drivers side. Tried "tap-tap-tap" and heating as well per my consultant's suggestions and eventually gave up after a few hours invested. Wire brushed them and clear coated the outside and have had crossed fingers the next 19 years. Someone who knows more may help. I didn't want to break something.


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