# No spark??



## xconcepts (Jan 4, 2009)

Ok, I'm totally lost on what is going on. I had a pertronix unit in and was not getting a spark so I went back to points just to get her running again. I bought the points and installed them no problem, still no spark. Replaced the coil since it wasn't getting spark to the distributor And replaced allthe plugs as they were soaked. I got spark at the distributor but...... STILL NO SPARK AT THE PLUGS..... The points are gapped correctly, so are the plugs. I really have never felt with points so not sure if I got everything for going back to points but autozone didn'tmention needing anything else.


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## gjones (Oct 8, 2012)

*???*

Are they uni-points (with the built in condenser) or is the condenser separate? Don't forget the condenser! What did you set the gap at? Where does your dwell fall? How's your cap and rotor? (Check the contacts-burnt, broken, cracked?). How's your plug wires? What did you put the gap at the plugs at?


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## xconcepts (Jan 4, 2009)

You know I don't think I have the condenser. I told the parts guy I needed everything to go back to points and didn't get that. I had a guy at the auto hobby shop set the gap, he said it was correct and could see the points opening and closing when I cranked it. Cap and rotor are good, less then a year old and only installed for about 3 months, wires are new too. I'm gapped to .35 for the spark plugs. 

God I hope it's the condenser....


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## gjones (Oct 8, 2012)

*Condenser milk*

A bad condenser will cause no/weak spark, and all manner of woe... The points you have don't have the built in condenser? (Cylindrical object attached to one side of the points).


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## xconcepts (Jan 4, 2009)

Nope and I just picked one up, the one I installed today doesn't have it attached


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## gjones (Oct 8, 2012)

*Distributor of joy*

That's fine, either way. Doesn't matter. (Although, for some reason, I never cared for the ones with the built in condenser. Seemed to be more problematic for me, even though that's counterintuitive). While you're in there, take a look at the wire(s) for corrosion or grounding conditions. Might not be a bad idea to double check the points gap. What is it supposed to be? .018-.019?


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## xconcepts (Jan 4, 2009)

so adding the condenser did not work, I still have a little or no spark at the plugs


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## gjones (Oct 8, 2012)

*????*

That's weird. You said you had spark at the distributor, though? When you check for spark at the plugs, you're grounding them securely to the block? Points gap set to .019"? Wire(s) inside distributor is o.k.? Crank the engine with coil wire about 1/4" from ground at the block, and you don't have spark there? (If you do, stick the plugs in it and fire it up!) Is your rotor on properly, (and not cracked) and the center tang of the rotor touching the carbon button on the center terminal inside the cap?


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## xconcepts (Jan 4, 2009)

Ok so somehow after being set correctly my distro was firing into the 5 instead of 1....not sure how that happened when the distributor was never removed..


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## gjones (Oct 8, 2012)

*Spark and span*

Plug wires must've got crisscrossed. Still wouldn't explain the "no spark" feature, though. Best quadruple check the firing order before you try to her to fire up again.


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## joesweeting (May 8, 2011)

When I was trouble shooting issues with ignition/starting problems, I ran a wire from the battery to the distribution to verify I didn't have any other electrical issues. If you do this, don't forget to disconnect it when you are not starting/running the engine. 

Hope this helps. 



Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App


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## Rukee (Feb 8, 2007)

What kind of voltage are you seeing at the + side of the coil?


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## xconcepts (Jan 4, 2009)

12 volts


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## Rukee (Feb 8, 2007)

So, you're getting solid spark at the coil wire but not at the plugs? Is that right?


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## the65gto (Oct 9, 2008)

Rukee said:


> So, you're getting solid spark at the coil wire but not at the plugs? Is that right?


Yipes....is the rotor turning when you crank it?


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## chuckha62 (Apr 5, 2010)

Make sure the breaker plate ground is intact. There should be an uninsulated, braided wire from the breaker plate (where the points mount) to the body of the distributor.


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## Rukee (Feb 8, 2007)

the65gto said:


> Yipes....is the rotor turning when you crank it?


It must be or there wouldn't be any spark at all.


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## xconcepts (Jan 4, 2009)

Yes getting spark at the coil wire but not at the plugs


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## Rukee (Feb 8, 2007)

Bad rotor probably shorting out to the distributor shaft (look on the bottom side for any graying or arching), and/or bad cap.


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## gjones (Oct 8, 2012)

*^ ^ ^*

:agree Gotta be! (& w/chuckha62 also)


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## xconcepts (Jan 4, 2009)

So got her going again yesterday, the coil was bad apparently and not firing into 1 didn't help....now I'm back to sputtering and dying at lights and when I get on her she doesn't seem to have the power she had. I just put gas in too, so she's not empty.

I'm going to mess around with the idle in the next few days, but could it be because I went back to points? I'm really just contemplating buying a MSD or other drop in distributor.


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## chuckha62 (Apr 5, 2010)

I wouldn't be inclined to ditch them just yet... I'm still running mine with no issues whatsoever.

Go back to basics. Make sure you have a good dielectric grease on the rubbing block of the points at the cam. Make sure you have a GOOD ground wire to the breaker plate! This has confounded many "good" mechanics over the years and can lead you astray. It can be intermittant as the breaker plate moves with vacuum. Set your points ~.017"-.018" (30 degrees dwell angle). Remember, Dwell can change timing, but timing cannot change dwell. Set the dwell first. Next set your idle and your timing. Your idle will change as you change your timing. 

As for your points and condensor, your condensor is a capacitor and charges and discharges to create your spark at the points. A new one can be bad from the factory. This is particularly true these days as parts are being sourced from offshore. 

Now, I seem to remember having issues in previous cars with having to get the point spring (which acts as an electrical conductor), and the condensor wire in the correct order on the mounting post. It would run fine in one order and not worth a damn in the other if I recall correctly...

Stay with it and you'll get it. It's a reliable system if you set it up right.

Chuck


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