# Window Fuzzies/Weatherstripping issues



## timmyg (Jan 2, 2012)

I am restoring my 65 GTO. Just got back from the Paint shop. In the process today of doing what I thought would be one of the easier things; installing the new Horizontal Window Seals and Fuzzy's for the doors and quarter windows. 
The outer rubber seals have tabs that you put through the holes in the Belt Line Moldings and bend over. The inner Felt Seals have clips that clip into the frame of the door. I started with the Drivers Door Seals first. I installed the seals and then tried to put the drivers door window up. When winding the window up, and the window is not quite seated into the seal at the the top of the door frame, the horizontal rubber channel that the window is actually connected to at the bottom of the window comes into contact with both the outer and the inner seal enough to where it is pushing up on the Belt Line Molding and the inner Fuzzy Seal. At this point I am still approx. 1/4 inch from the window sealing at the top. I took the outer seal back off and drilled holes a little higher in the Belt line Molding that it attaches to so the seal would be slightly higher. Not much difference. The window certainly is not coming higher than it used to for the last 48 years. The Brand of window seals is PUI. Has anyone had this issue before and if so how did you resolve it. Any help greatly appreciated.


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## olde-goat (Feb 1, 2009)

I also used PUI fuzzies and Metro for the vent window assembly and I have the exact same issue on my 65. I spent considerable amount of time messing with all the weatherstrips and rubber gaskets but the drivers window is still shy of making a good seal at the top. Funny thing is that this problem doesn't exist on the Passenger door. The window seals perfectly with no extra modifications.


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## timmyg (Jan 2, 2012)

I wonder if it is the brand. For instance, I wonder if Soff Seal or Cat Whiskers would be the same situation. Has any one used one of these brands and not had the issue with the drivers door? I would think if no one has had the issue with these brands, then they must be the ones to get. There certainly should be no difference from one 65 door to the next.


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## BearGFR (Aug 25, 2008)

Do you have a copy of the Fisher Body Manual that applies to your car? There's an adjustment procedure for the windows...

Bear


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## timmyg (Jan 2, 2012)

I was able to get the seals to work. I took each one of the four Beltline Moldings and attached the Rubber Seals to them normally by bending over the metal tabs on the back of the seals that protrude through the holes in the Belt Line Molding. Then I drilled a hole about every two inches along the length of each one of the Seal/Molding assemblies and Pop Riveted the Seal and Molding together. This made an exceptionally tight assembly near the bottom edge of the seal/molding assembly. I then attached each assembly to the car at its proper location by drilling and installing a sheet metal screw at both ends of each assembly. Windows now clear the seals and fully shut.


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## Purple Haze (Feb 27, 2011)

Ours was a 20 resto project and we bought it done! The windows do the same. The guy even tried to glue the fuzzies....... duh, bad idea. I have a new set and have not installed them yet (pondering new tinted glass?? ) Current glass is tinted but scratched from razor blade overspray removal!!!!!!!!!!!

I did read in another thread the there is a ridge on the rubber seals at the bottom that protrude app. 1/8th inch. The thread said to cut that ridge off so the window bottom seal will roll right past it??? Does this sound right?? It does make sense to me???

Great info for me, thanx guys.


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## Purple Haze (Feb 27, 2011)

BearGFR said:


> Do you have a copy of the Fisher Body Manual that applies to your car? There's an adjustment procedure for the windows...
> 
> Bear


I believe thats for the door window stop for the "down" position. Mine has to be adjusted on the pass side. This is not a window adjustment issue, just a case of poor design replacement parts???????....... IMHO ??


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