# Steering wheel shakes when braking from 40-75 mph issue...



## pctek (Jul 18, 2010)

I have a 05 a4 yj goat with 55,000 miles and was wondering what you guys think the issue is when I start to slow down from like 40-75 mph, such as exiting a freeway or whatever, my steering wheel shakes when braking.

Anyone have a clue?

It did it before also but couple days ago I got 2 new front tires put on with balnced and alightment and still does the shakes. Thanks


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## 87GN06GTO07IRL (Aug 10, 2009)

Warped front rotors.


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## pctek (Jul 18, 2010)

87GN06GTO07IRL said:


> Warped front rotors.


Yup very possible, A while back I started a same thread that I just remembered after posting this one here.

Heres the other thread a while back:

Question about possible warped rotors after rotating tires..... - LS1GTO.com Forums

And I got mixed info from warped rotors and wheel not being mounting evenly/good when tightening the lugs up.

Well just right now I removed both front tires and clean up wipe down the mounting surfaces and mounted them flush and used a regualr long socket to hand tighten them down, then used a old fashion chrome 4 star lug bar, tighten them down some more, then lowered the tire enough to prevent wheel from turning and tighten them little by little more n more while doing the criss cross pattern, while doing this I was changing to a different lug location to start the tighten sequence again.

Well drove it and I didnt get the wheel shake so far I drive it tommorow and test more. Thanks


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## motoristx (Apr 27, 2010)

it will get worse as it gets hot. I'd reccomend slotted and drilled rotors and new brake pads. but, it the very least I'd replace them or have your current rotors measured and turned.


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## bayhammer (Apr 10, 2011)

my o6 did same thing...tie-rod.


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## LS2 MN6 (Jul 14, 2010)

Check the following:

Tire Balance
Wheel Shape (they can tell you if you have a deformed rim when they balance)
Warped Rotors
Tie Rods out of spec


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## dustyminpin (Jun 19, 2006)

Stock rotors are junk from the factory for the weight of these cars and the horsepower they have. If you drive your car like a Prius, you got nothing to worry about. I swapped my warped rotors out for DBA's 4000 XS rotors front and back. Very good rotor for the price. They aren't immune to warping however. As after a couple years of running and them and very hard breaking from 130+ mph have put a tiny wobble back in them. Only notice it while breaking hard, not breaking under normal driving. Nothing like the stock rotors wobbled. The local tire/break place said the stock rotors were thin junk to begin with and if they turned them down I'd have to press the pedal halfway to the floor to get them to bite. I didn't want that.


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## Grumpy's_Toy (Jan 27, 2011)

Mine started doing the shake two months ago, would get worse as the rotors warmed up, found two cracks on passenger front rotor, ordered drilled/slotted for all four corners. Now no shake and looks cool.


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## Poncho Dan (Jun 30, 2009)

If you really want to cure the problem, you need to do two things:

- Machine the rotors, even the new ones. Parallelism of the disc surfaces is critical and needs to be .0005" or less. This what causes the shaking/pulsing pedal.

-Make sure the hubs are exceptionally clean, I'd use a carbide scraper to remove any rust/corrosion. Then mount the "trued up" rotors, and finger tighten 3 lug nuts on, and check runout with a surface gauge. Runout needs to be .003" or less (I'd shoot for .002), as runout is what develops parallelism differences over time. If runout is too high, try cleaning the hubs some more, and or mount match in the best position, marking with some chalk, etc.


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## bigrigg6511 (Nov 23, 2008)

my 06 did the same thing. it was a tie rod ends that went bad.


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## nicayotte (Apr 4, 2011)

Poncho Dan said:


> If you really want to cure the problem, you need to do two things:
> 
> - Machine the rotors, even the new ones. Parallelism of the disc surfaces is critical and needs to be .0005" or less. This what causes the shaking/pulsing pedal.
> 
> -Make sure the hubs are exceptionally clean, I'd use a carbide scraper to remove any rust/corrosion. Then mount the "trued up" rotors, and finger tighten 3 lug nuts on, and check runout with a surface gauge. Runout needs to be .003" or less (I'd shoot for .002), as runout is what develops parallelism differences over time. If runout is too high, try cleaning the hubs some more, and or mount match in the best position, marking with some chalk, etc.




When I need to do this on my car I am gonna pm you and bring it to you with a case of beer and some money so we can do this if that is cool :lol:


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