# 72 Lemans Questions - seam sealer, dash pad



## Icefan71 (Apr 7, 2011)

Trying to remove old seam sealer is a real pain in the... Are there any tips, tricks anyone can offer? I've been using putty knife, screwdriver, box cutter. Some of it comes up easy, some is really difficult. Also, is it used as adhesive too? I noticed as I removed it from between the trunk floor and wheel well, the 2 parts separated. I thought the 2 would be welded together.
My other question is about removing the dash pad. Its dried up and cracked in a couple of places. And when I leaned on it I made another crack. I'm afraid if I try to remove it, I'll break it apart. Is there any way to soften it up so it won't break up? I'd like to get it off and clean up the dash underneath it. Its got some rust under there. I know the pad can be replaced, but I'm trying to save as much as I can and keep my budget down.
BTW this is a great site. I don't post much, but I'm lurking just about everyday and learning a lot.


----------



## jetstang (Nov 5, 2008)

Make sure all the bolts/clips are removed from the dash, should come out nice, never tried to remove mine so don't know.
Seam sealer dries hard, remove what you can, then sand down the excess.


----------



## Icefan71 (Apr 7, 2011)

The dash has to come out. So, I'll do my best to not damage it, but if it breaks it breaks. As for the seam sealer, its coming up. Its just taking forever. I guess I can't rush things if I want them done right.


----------



## BearGFR (Aug 25, 2008)

The dash has a steel frame underneath/embedded in it, so it's not likely to break into pieces or anything on you. Not sure if the 72 is the same, but on my 69 there are three "speed nuts" along the top of the dash pad behind the glove box (glove box insert has to come out to get to them). Three screws at the top of the gauge/light/speedo/clock cluster on the drivers side that go vertically from the openings up into the metal part of the dash. There are 4 bolts along the bottom edge of the dash, one at each end near the kick panels, two more on either side of the steering column. You probably should remove the bolts on the steering column so you can drop it down out of the way - you don't have to remove it completely. Once you get all the fasteners removed you should be able to slide the dash out enough to go in from the top and disconnect the speedo cable, the wiring harness connections (gauge cluster, headlight switch, wipers, various lights, heater a/c switches and control cables, lighter, etc.) Recommend marking/labelling all the connections with bits of folded over masking tape so you'll remember where it all goes. Then you should be able to lift the dash out.

Bear


----------



## Icefan71 (Apr 7, 2011)

Thanks Bear. I was worried about breaking the vinyl, but like I said its gotta come out. I can see some rust on the metal on the top of the dash. And I can see a snake skin laying across the top of the speaker. Thats the 4th one I've found in the interior. So who knows what else I'll find in there. Funny, I only wanted to remove the carpet,headliner and panels, but I can't seem to stop taking stuff apart, lol.


----------



## 69Goatee (Aug 14, 2009)

That's what happened to me. I was just going to redo the interior, wiring harness, bodywork and paint. Then it snowballed, and I tore it down to the bare frame! I rebuilt everything, fixed all of the rust, painted the frame, suspension and firewall with por15, and started putting it all back together. A one year project is in its third year, and what do I have left? Interior, wiring harness, bodywork and paint. Enjoy!


----------



## Icefan71 (Apr 7, 2011)

I should stop the insanity, then.


----------



## pontiac (Mar 6, 2011)

seam sealer in vintage cars was not adhesive.


----------

