# converting drum to dics info? help?



## perrystroke (Nov 17, 2014)

I am going to attempt to convert my 68 GTO CONV. to disc brakes.

looking to see if there is another A-body car I can use to achieve this instead of buying a kit.

there is lots of salvage yards in the area where I live, so why not use them.

what im looking for is a simple way to take brake parts off a car that will bolt up on my 68. Is there any vehicle out there that is a basic unbolt, bolt on car?

or do i have to mixmatch parts to accomplish this?

has anyone done a salvage yard conversion?


thanks for the help, i know that this topic has most likely been discussed on here before but im not good with searching forums ha. thanks again.


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## Goat Roper (Oct 28, 2014)

You can do it junkyard style and you have to get the spindles and add a booster to your master.

Here is a thread that answers some of your questions.
Also if you have 14" rims you have to make sure they are compatible.
I have 15" Rally IIs and just bought the conversion kit from Summit, all new stuff including the spindles and master I didn't want to waste a bunch of time screwing around at Pick A Part getting parts and rebuilding them.

http://www.gtoforum.com/f50/68-disc-brake-conversion-30389/index2.html

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-bk1201/overview/


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## motoman (Jul 12, 2014)

We just did a front disc/dual master cyl conversion on a 64. We ended up purchasing a kit from a reputable co.. ( after trying to mix/match new parts that supposedly would work)Even then we had some customizing to do, on a supposed bolt on appl. . It was no surprise or problem, ( just time) my point is=time vs headache vs $. you may want to ponder. Good luck w/ conv. My customer really like shis.


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## perrystroke (Nov 17, 2014)

who has the best bang for your buck when it comes down to a new bolt on system? also when you get a system does it come with everything you need? or is there the "things they dont tell you, you need"?


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## Goat Roper (Oct 28, 2014)

perrystroke said:


> who has the best bang for your buck when it comes down to a new bolt on system? also when you get a system does it come with everything you need? or is there the "things they dont tell you, you need"?


Mine came with everything and took about 6 hrs. to do.
There are different kits and some won't fit 14" wheels but there is a kit for them also.
You will need a kit that has the spindles, you can get stock, drop etc.
I went with stock.


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## perrystroke (Nov 17, 2014)

what year GTO is yours and what company did you use for your kit? maybe looking into getting a 4 disc kit, not sure yet


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## perrystroke (Nov 17, 2014)

also I do not have power brakes, did you convert yours to power and what did you have to do to do that


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## Goat Roper (Oct 28, 2014)

Mine is a '67 and this is the kit I bought.
Minimum wheel diameter is 15" on this one.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-bk1201/overview/

Here is the other one for 14" wheels.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-bk1203/overview/

You really don't need the discs on the back since most of the stopping power is in the front.
Both of these kits will fit your '68.


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## Goat Roper (Oct 28, 2014)

perrystroke said:


> also I do not have power brakes, did you convert yours to power and what did you have to do to do that


Look at the kits, they have a booster and master included you just need to pull vacuum from the manifold and you have power brakes.

My car came from the factory with PB so I already had the vacuum hose.


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## perrystroke (Nov 17, 2014)

wont the booster have a hard time bolting up since it did not come from the factory with one?

thanks again


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## 666bbl (Apr 13, 2014)

Same car with or without a booster.


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## Goat Roper (Oct 28, 2014)

perrystroke said:


> wont the booster have a hard time bolting up since it did not come from the factory with one?
> 
> thanks again


Yes it will bolt right up and the brackets fit where your old master bolts up.
The kit comes with a longer rod and clevis from the pedal to the master that is adjustable.


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## motoman (Jul 12, 2014)

I'm not at my office to get you the kit we used on my customers 64 .but a good kit will be pre fab (usually) with very minor adjusting or fabrication needed (usually). I think the worst part was the brake lines on his' particularly the one on the engine carriage . I agree with earlier post if your trying to keep cost down you don't need rear disc.


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## 666bbl (Apr 13, 2014)

Any and all GM A body disc brakes from 66 to 72 (and maybe later) will bolt on to your 68. You need the spindles and caliper mounts, and if you find a car with all of it on there you have cores if required by your parts store, or simply get kits and freshen up the calipers, shag new rotors. Hard to do? Nope, nuts and bolts. It may be harder to remove the parts at the yard but then again they may torch them off for you and you'll only need to remove the A-arm stubs. You can get kits, and some of them are indeed refreshed and rebuilt parts from that time with a few upgrades added. My 65 has all 66 Chevelle disc brake parts installed but I think the booster is a little too big. While they won't be staying on the car, it has M/T valve covers in place and it just barely touches the booster. Kits save searching for stuff but getting all the OEM pieces and making work has it's own reward of sorts, if you're into that kind of thing too. Good luck and embrace the challenge. Look for the real stuff!! Or not...


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## Goat Roper (Oct 28, 2014)

motoman said:


> I'm not at my office to get you the kit we used on my customers 64 .but a good kit will be pre fab (usually) with very minor adjusting or fabrication needed (usually). I think the worst part was the brake lines on his' particularly the one on the engine carriage . I agree with earlier post if your trying to keep cost down you don't need rear disc.


Once the pads are seated brake hard and keep adjusting the proportioning valve until the rear brakes lock up then back it off 2 clicks.
The drums have no problem locking up the wheels so yeah the rear discs IMO are over kill.
On my kit the lines went right to the block with just a little bending to get them centered.


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## chui1980 (Jun 5, 2013)

I wont even attempt to do a salvage yard conversion. by the time you visit several junk yards attempting to find one you will loose time and money. I got mine from Right Stuff and it fits right up. One of the better manufacturers in the US. I should be finish tomorrow.


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## chui1980 (Jun 5, 2013)

Here you can see both of my cars.
66 Convertible right stuff disc conversion




69 Hardtop


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## albin79 (Oct 23, 2014)

1968 1972 Chevelle GM A Body Disc Brake Conversion | eBay

I purchased a kit locally years ago but the shop closed. Here is one from Ebay and it appears they sell a bunch of them for a really low price $479


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## geeteeohguy (Feb 2, 2008)

Perry, any '69-'72 GM A-body with disc brakes will be a direct bolt-in. You don't want '67 and '68 disc because of the spendy and problematic 4 piston calipers and unobtainium rotors. The '69-'72 are common and cheap. Last entire conversion I did cost $90 total, and included the spindles, bearings, rotors, calpers, master cylinder, and booster. Junkyard parts from a '72 Cutlass. And yes, it was some time back.


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