# Monster Clutch



## Falco21 (May 11, 2010)

Right now I have a stage 2 spec racing clutch and im getting ready to replace it with a monster level 2. I was probably gonna go with the C6 Premium Billet Package which includes the HD pressure plate, 12" dual friction disc, steel flywheel, pilot bearing and the alignment tool. Is there anything else i should replace or need? Thanx in advance


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## Bluegoat05 (Mar 22, 2010)

personally i would go with a higher strength clutch because stage two is pretty low ecspecially if you are gonna keep up grading that car. monster has really cheaply priced clutches so go with a better one. a stage five monster is only two hundred more and can handle over 825hp.. thats what im gonna get, no sense in havin to get a better one later. and you may want to try going to a remote bleeder for your clutch and steel clutch lines.. also i would get and alluminum flywheel you gain like 8hp because of the weight savings. i just had a thought i wonder if it affects your torque negatively?


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## Falco21 (May 11, 2010)

Bluegoat05 said:


> personally i would go with a higher strength clutch because stage two is pretty low ecspecially if you are gonna keep up grading that car. monster has really cheaply priced clutches so go with a better one. a stage five monster is only two hundred more and can handle over 825hp.. thats what im gonna get, no sense in havin to get a better one later. and you may want to try going to a remote bleeder for your clutch and steel clutch lines.. also i would get and alluminum flywheel you gain like 8hp because of the weight savings. i just had a thought i wonder if it affects your torque negatively?


thats an awesome point Bluegoat05....its definitely worth the 200 more bucks to upgrade to a much higher and stronger clutch...and yes i am planning on upgrading even more so getting the higher one would be much more logical :cheers....and im not to sure on the negative affects on the torque, but thats a good question....keep me posted also when you get yours and when its done...i wana hear how it feels :cool


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## 87GN06GTO07IRL (Aug 10, 2009)

Don't forget to get a f-body slave cylinder. Way cheaper.


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## SANDU002 (Oct 13, 2004)

I replaced my spec stage 3+ with a monster level 4. Call the people at monster and tell them what kind of driving you are doing and they will recommend the right clutch level.


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## jpalamar (Jul 22, 2008)

I would def do the slave and consider installing a remote bleeder. Also look into som SS lines while there. I plan on doing all this when my stocker fails.


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## Falco21 (May 11, 2010)

yea i was looking at the Monster Stage 4 premium package that comes with the slave cylinder....i was also gonna add the ss braided lines and a remote bleeder but i found this searching on the internet the other day just so that everything is basically upgraded...wat do you guys think of this adjustable master cylinder as well: TICKshift.com - Quick Shifting Six Speed Perfectionists


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## jpalamar (Jul 22, 2008)

I'd save the money and get a F-Body slave and transfer brackets.


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## Falco21 (May 11, 2010)

jpalamar said:


> I'd save the money and get a F-Body slave and transfer brackets.


the F body slave as opposed to the premium package including the slave from monster?


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## Bluegoat05 (Mar 22, 2010)

try marylandspeed.com they have monster clutches for a little cheaper..


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## jpalamar (Jul 22, 2008)

Falco21 said:


> the F body slave as opposed to the premium package including the slave from monster?


The stock GTO slave is $150 more then the LS1 fbody slave. They are essentially the same part but the mounting braket is different. There is a write up on here that shows to to make the swap. From what I read, its maybe 5 minutes of work to save a boat load of cash. I honestly am not sure what upgrading the slave would do preformance wise.


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## GM4life (Mar 18, 2007)

If the monster comes with the slave don't worry about it. I _highly_ recommend getting the steel braded clutch and bleed lines. Very easy to bleed the clutch with the remote bleed line. I blead my clutch with a Mity Vac in the engine bay after my Tex Exo-Skel clutch install. No messing around going under the car with fluid draining in the bellhousing.

BTW: There is no mounting bracket you have to swap its the hydrolic connection that you have to swap. The F-body has a QD the GTO has a b-nut type. All you have to do is punch out the roll pin to swap them out.

My slaves: GTO on the left F-body on the right


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## Falco21 (May 11, 2010)

GM4life said:


> If the monster comes with the slave don't worry about it. I _highly_ recommend getting the steel braded clutch and bleed lines. Very easy to bleed the clutch with the remote bleed line. I blead my clutch with a Mity Vac in the engine bay after my Tex Exo-Skel clutch install. No messing around going under the car with fluid draining in the bellhousing.
> 
> BTW: There is no mounting bracket you have to swap its the hydrolic connection that you have to swap. The F-body has a QD the GTO has a b-nut type. All you have to do is punch out the roll pin to swap them out.
> 
> My slaves: GTO on the left F-body on the right


Thanks for the write up man...yea the monster premium package comes with the slave cylinder...but let me ask you something..what do you think of that master cylinder i put earlier in the thread...wat are your opinions on it...the adjustable master cylinder http://www.tick-performance.com/tickshift/parts/gto/hydraulics/ i figured since im doing a whole new clutch swap with the ss braided lines, remote bleeder, and slave cylinder, and also im putting in a ripshift, i figured i'd just do it all including the master cylinder while im there...let me know your opinions on this thanx :cheers


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## GM4life (Mar 18, 2007)

The only thing I see with going with a aftermarket master cylinder is the heaver pedal effort. If your going with a clutch that is heaver than stock then add the effort the master cylinder will add it could be a pain. I think the adjustablity if for pedal height engagement. That just me, I could be wrong.

Check here: New clutch master cylinder specifications - LS1GTO.com Forums


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## Falco21 (May 11, 2010)

GM4life said:


> The only thing I see with going with a aftermarket master cylinder is the heaver pedal effort. If your going with a clutch that is heaver than stock then add the effort the master cylinder will add it could be a pain. I think the adjustablity if for pedal height engagement. That just me, I could be wrong.
> 
> Check here: New clutch master cylinder specifications - LS1GTO.com Forums


yea i definitely dont need a heavier pedal. I might just stick with just the lines, bleeder, and the slave. I justfigured how it would play out putting in a new master cylinder considering im practically redoing the entire system. But, the pedal is gonna be heavy as it is, and its not a must. Thanks GM4life. That helped a lot


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## dngriffi (Jan 19, 2010)

Falco21 said:


> Right now I have a stage 2 spec racing clutch and im getting ready to replace it with a monster level 2. I was probably gonna go with the C6 Premium Billet Package which includes the HD pressure plate, 12" dual friction disc, steel flywheel, pilot bearing and the alignment tool. Is there anything else i should replace or need? Thanx in advance


Let me know how the Monster works out. I decided to go with the LS7 instead of the Monster. Hopefully I don't regret it.


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## Falco21 (May 11, 2010)

dngriffi said:


> Let me know how the Monster works out. I decided to go with the LS7 instead of the Monster. Hopefully I don't regret it.


i should be coming up with the money so i will be replacing it very soon. I did look into the LS7 clutch but I was more moved to pick Monster considering everyone i have spoken to seems to love it. I am also going with the Level 4 due to future mods. I will definitely let you know how it feels when all is said and done. :cheers o and how is the LS7 holding up for you?


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