# Console restoration tips?



## 67lemans (Oct 30, 2009)

I installed the new shifter cable and 3 speed conversion kit (from 2 speed auto) from Ames (67 Lemans) and I'd recommend it. Good instructions and fit. The cable was about 6 inches longer than it needed to be and that put things on a bit of a bind, but not bad. 

Now that the console is out I might as well refurbish it a little. Overall it's pretty solid and complete. One screw hole going to the floor is broken out, but I guess I'll try to glue that back in place. The main thing it will need is the new top veneer. I see a lot of options in the Ames catalog....vinyl, wood, backing, no backing etc.. I'll probably eventually do the dash as well so I'd like to do them using the same materials. I'm comfortable using the SEM interior paint for the respray, but I'm mainly wondering about the top cover.

1) any tips, tricks, or suggestions for removing the old veneer and replacing it? It looks to me like it is on a metal plate of some sort that is pretty rusty on the edges. (see picture)
2) any suggestions on what type of veneer to use from Ames or other. I am going for driver quality car that gets used. I'd like it to look nice but its not for show.













Thanks!


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## PontiacJim (Dec 29, 2012)

67lemans said:


> I installed the new shifter cable and 3 speed conversion kit (from 2 speed auto) from Ames (67 Lemans) and I'd recommend it. Good instructions and fit. The cable was about 6 inches longer than it needed to be and that put things on a bit of a bind, but not bad.
> 
> Now that the console is out I might as well refurbish it a little. Overall it's pretty solid and complete. One screw hole going to the floor is broken out, but I guess I'll try to glue that back in place. The main thing it will need is the new top veneer. I see a lot of options in the Ames catalog....vinyl, wood, backing, no backing etc.. I'll probably eventually do the dash as well so I'd like to do them using the same materials. I'm comfortable using the SEM interior paint for the respray, but I'm mainly wondering about the top cover.
> 
> ...


I can't speak for 1967, but we had a post with regards to the veneer on the 1968 Lemans I have. I always believed it to be a true wood veneer due to the clear top coat which had browned and was peeling and what looked like wood grain underneath.

However, as it turned out, it was actually a plastic looking veneer with a varnish or clear coat - and I would have bet money it was real wood. LOL Anyway, it is just like a plastic plate that is glued to the surface - in my case the dash.

What I did to remove it was lift up on one edge and then pour in some Acetone - which you can get at Home Depot/Lowes, or even Walmart I believe. The acetone will melt the glue pretty fast. I inserted a flat bladed putty knife between the plate and dash surface and gently pried up enough to lift it and pour in a little more acetone. I then wiggled the putty knife a little deeper between the two pieces and again pried it up a little, and repeated the process. If it breaks, not really a big deal as you are replacing it. What you are doing is releasing the plate by melting the glue.

When I got mine all peeled off, you will have residual glue left behind. Now you want to be careful here as I found that the acetone will melt the plastic if applied too generously and you vigorously scrape the glue off using the putty knife. So just use enough to scrape off most of the glue being careful not to melt plastic if you have plastic under the wood grain panel. The plastic will get covered again, and I was not too concerned scraping into the plastic, but be aware of it. You can finish removing the remainder of the glue with a green scuffy or even some sand paper. Then let the piece thoroughly dry out.

I cannot recommend an adhesive as I did not need any in my application. But I assume any good adhesive/glue would work.

This is what I did, but you may find a different way of doing it. As far as replacement, I purchased a 3M wood grain vinyl peel & stick that I used as a template for my set-up, and it was indeed vinyl looking. I don't know the quality of any of the other offerings - which may be better.


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## 67lemans (Oct 30, 2009)

Thanks Jim, acetone is a good idea. On this piece, and according to the Ames catalog there is the veneer, then a backing piece made out of aluminum or plastic and then the dash/console surface. I suppose if I can get the veneer off of the backing piece and have a clean smooth surface on the backing I would just need new veneer, and I'd need to make sure I got it on without any bubbles/wrinkles/bumps. I was initially thinking I'd take the backing completely off the console surface and replace both and it might be smoother and easier. I will mess with it a little and see how it goes.


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## Researcher (Jun 29, 2020)

I’ll be in the same boat as you in a few months. I’m interested in how you do it and how it turns out.


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## 67lemans (Oct 30, 2009)

I wanted to follow up on this post (because I get so much good info from this forum). I took Pontiac Jim's advice and used the acetone. It worked good. It didn't work very good to just brush it on, it had to soak. So for the big piece I made a make shift tub out of one of those good ole blue tarps with a few 2X4's around it underneath to make the walls and Voila! You can see how it wrinkled up. It did not eat through the tarp. I cleaned up all the chrome with fine steel wool and sanded the rust off the pieces as best I could, then once real clean I applied new vinyl inserts from Ames. The inserts are very sticky and definitely a 2 person job to get started straight. You don't want to have to reposition them. You will notice a new shifter indicator as I have replaced the 2 speed with a 3 speed. Y auto. I also repaired a couple broken out screw holes with ABS glue and then resprayed it with the correct
























color spray paint from Ames.


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