# ripshift problems with reverse! help please



## TheDude (Aug 31, 2006)

ive had my rip shift for a couple months now its been fine except its been getting harder and harder to shift the car into reverse. within the past couple days i have not been able to go in reverse at all!! it sucks.. i think the shop that i had do the install did not locktite the bolts all the way and one came loose and somehow locked me out of reverse...when attempting to go into reverse the 5th and 6th gate is as far as it lets me over. i cant take it back to where i had it installed because after i had it installed i returned to the military base in which i am stationed over 1000 miles away:willy: :willy: :confused . THANKS FOR YOUR HELP GUYS!


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## b_a_betterperson (Feb 16, 2005)

Have you tried removing the center section of the console so you can eyeball this situation? Sounds to me like the stops might be out of position.


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## pickinfights (Oct 3, 2006)

B&M or GMM?


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## b_a_betterperson (Feb 16, 2005)

It's a GMM.


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## speedwrenchx10 (May 6, 2006)

Possibly a reverse lockout problem and shifter is ok 3/36 on problem if not fault of shifter but I bet the blame shifter reguardless.No reverse blows I tore up sereral turbo 350s back in the day which seemed first no reverse the shortly after only 1st.Is it leaking fluid?If shifter body to trans bolts are loose it should leak if shaft to shifter mech. are loose it should be sloppy.


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## b_a_betterperson (Feb 16, 2005)

Agreed. If it's leaking, then the shift isn't attached to the tranny right. If it's the stick coming loose -- then there will be a ton of slop in the stick. That's why I'm thinking the stops either weren't set correctly or not secured.


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## pickinfights (Oct 3, 2006)

Should have gotten the B&M. Right Groucho? Just kidding. I have a lot of trouble putting it into reverse when first starting the car. I put it into 1st then try again. Our manual says to put the car in reverse before shutting off the engine.


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## TheDude (Aug 31, 2006)

b_a_betterperson said:


> Agreed. If it's leaking, then the shift isn't attached to the tranny right. If it's the stick coming loose -- then there will be a ton of slop in the stick. That's why I'm thinking the stops either weren't set correctly or not secured.


no bro, no slop in the stick at all.. stick feels like it did the day i drove it away from the shop. how hard is it to remove the console and what should i look for in the stops?? thanks guys.


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## b_a_betterperson (Feb 16, 2005)

Here's how you remove the console: http://www.bmracing.com/malloy/GTOinstructions.pdf This has photos -- so it will be quite useful.

Regarding the stops, they're really not needed as the Tremec T-56 has stops built in. Some guys don't believe that -- but if you like to wear both suspenders and a belt, suit yourself. 

As for their location, they're down in the base. Getting at them is going to take a little while because you're going to have to remove the console, then get under the car to loosen the bolts for the dust boot, then get in the car and pull the dust boot up -- then remove another cover before the bolts are exposed in the base (you can see the location for the dust cover bolts in the B&M instructions). It's not hard -- it's just that you need to be patient and have the right tools.

Do you have a copy of the GMM installation instructions? If not, contact where you bought the shifter from and get them. If they're done right, they should be a huge help. I looked at the ones JHP puts online and they're crap: http://www.jhp.com.au/monaro-gto/gto-short-shift.php -- then click on Option 4 GMM Rip Shift: fitting instructions."

Speaking of those GMM instructions. Look at step 24 -- clearance between the tunnel opening and the shift ring. You might want to look at that while you're in there, too.

Seriously? Eyeball the assembly first -- as the rubber boot might be getting pinched or something simple like that. Then keep going. If not, then I'd just pull the stop bolts out and see if the shifter works OK. If it does, then just button it up without them. If you still can't get into reverse, check for the proper clearance. Still no go? Then I'd put the stock shifter back in and take it to a dealer.

Wish I could swing by and tackle this with ya -- but this is the best I can do...


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## TheDude (Aug 31, 2006)

b_a_betterperson said:


> Here's how you remove the console: http://www.bmracing.com/malloy/GTOinstructions.pdf This has photos -- so it will be quite useful.
> 
> Regarding the stops, they're really not needed as the Tremec T-56 has stops built in. Some guys don't believe that -- but if you like to wear both suspenders and a belt, suit yourself.
> 
> ...



thanks b_a_betterperson, i appreciate the help!!! im going to try and tackle this issue this weekend if its still fubar im going to take it to a local shop my friend knows. i hope its an obvious issue like you said. cause im impatient and dont have access to alot of tools  . but seriously thanks for the help dude! im glad there are people like you on this forum to help newbs like me. have a good one!:cheers


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## ELP_JC (Jan 9, 2007)

How about checking the reverse lockout solenoid first? You can energize it by disconnecting the plug and applying 12V. If defective, dealer shouldn't have a problem with an A/M shifter, do they? IT has nothing to do with a solenoid failure. That's what scares me a bit doing anything like that with my car under warranty. Good luck.
JC


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## b_a_betterperson (Feb 16, 2005)

^ Great idea, but I think if that was the problem -- it would have been just a cut and dried case of not getting into reverse at all. Seems in this case it was gradual -- indicating something was progressively getting worse. That said, this is definitely worth checking, too.


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## TheDude (Aug 31, 2006)

ok after only a couple hours me and my buddy fixed it.

the issue was the 2 bolts that connect the stick to the triangle shaped connecter that actually goes into the shifter... weired i know.. the bottom one was loose and was restricting me from going into reverse cause it was grinding against the bottom of the top of the shifter there was lots of shavings from the bolt scatching the metal. the funny thing is i never heard a grinding noise from the metal to metal contact. we tightend up the bolt and wallaah. thank god it was right there obvious as hell or i would have been clueless. thanks again guys for the thoughts...thats why i come here first lol.

:cool :cool


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## b_a_betterperson (Feb 16, 2005)

Uh-oh. Not to be a pain, but I hope you checked out all the bolts and made sure they were secured with red Loctite. That shouldn't have happened.

Anyway, thanks for letting everybody know the good news. Glad things worked out for you.


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