# Engine break-in; frame only



## MaL (Jun 12, 2008)

I'll be starting the 389 for the first time after a rebuild in my home garage.

The engine is on the frame with no body.
I've purchased generic gauges for oil and engine temp.
I have one of those handheld push button starters.
I'll be pulling fuel from a gas can off to the side.
Electrically, I have the Pertronix III coil and distributor.
The original style engine wire harness is in place.
The battery will be in place (of course).

Do I have everything in place that I need to crank it over and do the 20 min cam break in? Any tips for this setup?

(A buddy was worried about some starter to distributor electrical issue. I'm not sure what they were thinking.)


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## johnnylightning03 (Nov 27, 2007)

looks familiar! as long as your full of coolant and oil you should be good. when you run it at 2k or so to break in a new cam, i would place an extra fan in front of the rad. i also cranked it first with no ignition to build oil press. good luck! looking great.


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## jetstang (Nov 5, 2008)

Looks good. If it's an auto make sure the cooler lines are hooked up or at least looped together.


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## 66tempestGT (Nov 28, 2009)

jetstang said:


> Looks good. If it's an auto make sure the cooler lines are hooked up or at least looped together.


:agree and lube in the tranny, auto or stick.


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## 66tempestGT (Nov 28, 2009)

MaL said:


> I'll be starting the 389 for the first time after a rebuild in my home garage.
> 
> 
> (A buddy was worried about some starter to distributor electrical issue. I'm not sure what they were thinking.)


if you have power to the coil you should be fine. if not, no workee


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## 05GTO (Oct 6, 2004)

66tempestGT said:


> if you have power to the coil you should be fine. if not, no workee


:agree

The wire from the starter to the coil was used to bypass the ballast resistor wire while starting the engine, after the car was started the coil voltage was reduced thru the resistor wire to around 8-10 volts to prevent burning up the points. With the Pertronix III coil and distributor you should remove the resistor wire and run 12 volts, 

After the break-in drain the oil thru a paint screen and make sure there are no metal bits and watch for water. Also, disect the oil filter and inspect for metal,


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## geeteeohguy (Feb 2, 2008)

All good stuff. I especially like the idea of an extra fan. Make sure the T-stat opens. The one on my '67 was brand new, and stayed stuck closed on initial cam break-in. I was lucky to catch it in time. Keep it cool, and keep it at 1800-2400 rpms and drain the oil after cam break in and don't reuse it. Use oil with ZDDP in it or a ZDDP additive when you refill. Good luck.


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## MaL (Jun 12, 2008)

05GTO, without the firewall, I skipped the ballast resistor, are you saying I need to change out a wire also? Sorry, but me weakest point is electrical.

Geeteeohguy, how can I tell my t-stat doesn't open right away? Temperature shoots up?

johnnylightning03, in your photo showing the blue oil pressure wire, what did you do with the black wire with the orange tracer that's next to it? (I have a 4 speed manual).


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## 05GTO (Oct 6, 2004)

MaL said:


> 05GTO, without the firewall, I skipped the ballast resistor, are you saying I need to change out a wire also? Sorry, but me weakest point is electrical.


When you get the car back together measure the voltage on the wire connected to the coil, if you read the same voltage as the battery you will be ok, if you read 8-11 volts you have a resistor wire. BTW, I have a case of paint screens that fit into a funnel, if you want a few, PM me your address and I'll drop them in the mail,


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## geeteeohguy (Feb 2, 2008)

If the engine block starts geting really hot after about 5 minutes and the upper rad hose is still cold to the touch. At 1800+ RPM, in June, the T-stat should open up within a few minutes. When the upper hose suddenly gets hot, you know it just opened!


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## johnnylightning03 (Nov 27, 2007)

that wire is for an auto trans neutral safety switch or auto trans reverse switch. i don't remember. i wrapped it up for the time being. my original harness didn't have it and the new harness is made for both auto and m/t applications. you won't need it.


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## Rukee (Feb 8, 2007)

geeteeohguy said:


> If the engine block starts geting really hot after about 5 minutes and the upper rad hose is still cold to the touch. At 1800+ RPM, in June, the T-stat should open up within a few minutes. When the upper hose suddenly gets hot, you know it just opened!


You can leave the radiator cap off too and then you can see when it starts flowing. :cheers


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## BillGTO (Oct 16, 2009)

I have this wire in my harness (unconnected). I assume that it is for a reverse light switch. I have a 4 speed with no switch and need to put one in for the lights.


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## Rukee (Feb 8, 2007)

BillGTO said:


> I have this wire in my harness (unconnected). I assume that it is for a reverse light switch. I have a 4 speed with no switch and need to put one in for the lights.


On my `65 that's a 2 wire plug that comes from the inside harness near the steering column out the firewall down to the tranny linkage.


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## MaL (Jun 12, 2008)

Thanks for the offer, 05GTO, but I'm covered. All you guys are most helpful. I appreciate it.


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## the65gto (Oct 9, 2008)

Maybe a dumb thought, you have no brakes! I think I would remove the drive shaft. ?


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## MaL (Jun 12, 2008)

It's in neutral, I thought that was ok. :confused

You did make me think of something else. To kill the engine when I'm finished, do I just pull the distributor's ignition coil?


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## jetstang (Nov 5, 2008)

Or just wire a toggle switch to break the ignition when you want to turn it off.


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