# M6 Transmission Help!



## Falco21 (May 11, 2010)

Well this has been occuring for a while now and I can not figure out what it is. There is a very distinct whine which seems to be coming from my transmission. I know GTOs are known for differential whine, but im pretty sure this is coming from my transmission. When I accelerate in 1st 2nd and 3rd gear it whines and it can be very loud. Almost sounds like a maggie :lol: It stops whining although in 4th gear when cruising but comes back again when im in 5th. I have heard many reasons for this, but has anyone experienced this same problem? And if they have, what was the outcome? Its really starting to both bother me and worry me. It also whines occassionally when i rev it in neutral. It doesnt happen all the time, but it will some times. Its so annoying!!


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## Falco21 (May 11, 2010)

no one know what it could possibly be?


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## GM4life (Mar 18, 2007)

No idea, pilot bearing, throwout bearing:confused


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## Rukee (Feb 8, 2007)

If the noise goes away in any gear, I would suspect an internal bearing. Have you swapped out the fluids yet?


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## jpalamar (Jul 22, 2008)

Lots of moving parts it could be... really hard to just guess. Fluids are always the first thing I check/replace though.


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## Falco21 (May 11, 2010)

i did swap out the fluid but im thinking about doing it again. This time im gonna use Dexron III though. I spoke to a guy who actually builds these transmissions, and he recommends Dexron III over anything else.


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## regguy1 (Aug 5, 2010)

Falco21 said:


> i did swap out the fluid but im thinking about doing it again. This time im gonna use Dexron III though. I spoke to a guy who actually builds these transmissions, and he recommends Dexron III over anything else.


If the noise goes away in 4th it indicates some type of bearing failure, the trans will need to be removed and torn down and repaired by someone competent to do so. Changing fluids will not correct this problem.
In 4th gear the syncronizer slider connects the main drive gear to the output shaft giving you a 1 to 1 ratio ...straight through the box so to speak and this takes a lot of the load off internal bearings so things will quiet down.

I prefer motor oil instead of the ATF.....good luck with it


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## Falco21 (May 11, 2010)

so basically it just needs to be opened up. Damn. That kinda sucks. I hope its just a simple fix. And not that i have to replace the transmission x_x. But we will see. Im getting my monster clutch installed soon, so while the guy is installing it, ill tell him to take a look in the tranny.


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## Rukee (Feb 8, 2007)

I'd still do a fluid swap before the clutch job. And you could try either a synthetic fluid or an additive like a LUCAS oil stabiliser to see if it helps. If it doesn't, then have the tranny rebuilt with the clutch job, as the fix is a temp one.


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## GM4life (Mar 18, 2007)

Falco21 said:


> i did swap out the fluid but im thinking about doing it again. This time im gonna use Dexron III though. I spoke to a guy who actually builds these transmissions, and he recommends Dexron III over anything else.


Yeah, GM has discontinued Dex III and killed the licencing but you can still get it from other manufactures.


regguy1 said:


> If the noise goes away in 4th it indicates some type of bearing failure, the trans will need to be removed and torn down and repaired by someone competent to do so. Changing fluids will not correct this problem.
> In 4th gear the syncronizer slider connects the main drive gear to the output shaft giving you a 1 to 1 ratio ...straight through the box so to speak and this takes a lot of the load off internal bearings so things will quiet down.
> 
> I prefer motor oil instead of the ATF.....good luck with it


:agree 
He did say it makes the noise in neutral too, the only thing spinning in that is the input shaft and some idler gears.
But motor oil inside the tranny?


Falco21 said:


> so basically it just needs to be opened up. Damn. That kinda sucks. I hope its just a simple fix. And not that i have to replace the transmission x_x. But we will see. Im getting my monster clutch installed soon, so while the guy is installing it, ill tell him to take a look in the tranny.


Transmission work is allways expensive. It can be more or about the same price as engine work. I was quoted $600+ just to replace the front $3 seal on mine for about 6hrs of work. Hell *6QTS11OZ* and I just buckeld down and did it ourselves in about 15mins. There is a bearing that sits in the front cover behind the seal on the input shaft. Having someone look into it while having the clutch done is a good idea.


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## Falco21 (May 11, 2010)

Well i quoted for the clutch install for quite a lot. Im doing the clutch, slave cylinder, and braided ss lines. I was wondering if someone knew a good thread on installing it? I think i might try and save some money and do it myself. Is it difficult?


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## GM4life (Mar 18, 2007)

Falco21 said:


> Well i quoted for the clutch install for quite a lot. Im doing the clutch, slave cylinder, and braided ss lines. I was wondering if someone knew a good thread on installing it? I think i might try and save some money and do it myself. Is it difficult?


No, its not difficult. Its about a six hour job. I did remote bleeder, steel braided clutch line and new throwout. That may have included taking the tranny apart to change the front seal. I did it with some basic hand tools, plenty of extensions, a tranny jack from Harbor Freight, clutch alingment tool, $30 Mity Vac., new GM flywheel bolts or ARP bolts if changing the flywheel. I or someone may have posted instructions, if not I can post them up again.


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## Falco21 (May 11, 2010)

GM4life said:


> No, its not difficult. Its about a six hour job. I did remote bleeder, steel braided clutch line and new throwout. That may have included taking the tranny apart to change the front seal. I did it with some basic hand tools, plenty of extensions, a tranny jack from Harbor Freight, clutch alingment tool, $30 Mity Vac., new GM flywheel bolts or ARP bolts if changing the flywheel. I or someone may have posted instructions, if not I can post them up again.


O wow that would be great man. Anywhere to save some money lol considering the clutch is kind of expensive. Whenever you get a chance to post them just let me know. No rush. Whenever you get the chance :cheers


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## regguy1 (Aug 5, 2010)

[:agree 
He did say it makes the noise in neutral too, the only thing spinning in that is the input shaft and some idler gears.
But motor oil inside the tranny?


Motor oil is a better lubricant than ATF, has slightly more viscosity. I always put motor oil back instead of the ATF. I drained the ATF from my New mustang GT 5 spd and put in motor oil....drove it for years afterwards. I'm not saying this based on a one time personal choice. I have 45 years experience as a transmission rebuilder, had my own shop for 40 years. I've used motor oil in manual transmissions hundreds of times (in ones that called for ATF) Honda has a "special" manual trans fluid...but the manual says use motor oil if Honda stuff not available in an "emergency" maybe the emergency is you don't want to pay $9.00 a quart


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## GM4life (Mar 18, 2007)

Falco21 said:


> O wow that would be great man. Anywhere to save some money lol considering the clutch is kind of expensive. Whenever you get a chance to post them just let me know. No rush. Whenever you get the chance :cheers


I'll do a write up on it when I get the time.:cheers


regguy1 said:


> Motor oil is a better lubricant than ATF, has slightly more viscosity. I always put motor oil back instead of the ATF. I drained the ATF from my New mustang GT 5 spd and put in motor oil....drove it for years afterwards. I'm not saying this based on a one time personal choice. I have 45 years experience as a transmission rebuilder, had my own shop for 40 years. I've used motor oil in manual transmissions hundreds of times (in ones that called for ATF) Honda has a "special" manual trans fluid...but the manual says use motor oil if Honda stuff not available in an "emergency" maybe the emergency is you don't want to pay $9.00 a quart


Motor oil won't be going in my tranny.


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## Falco21 (May 11, 2010)

I really appreciate it man! Just whenever you get a chance


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## GM4life (Mar 18, 2007)

*Tranny removal & clutch installation(work in progress)*

Tools/parts required:
- Metric sockets and wrenches
- Transmission Jack, $80 Harbor Fright works well.
- Plenty of extentions
- Torque wrench
- Lock tight
- 4 Jackstands and/or ramps
- Slave cylinder
- Clutch alignment tool about $2-$3
Optional:
- Rear cover seal
- Rear main seal
- Steal braded clutch and bleed lines(highly recommended)
- Torx socket E18


Removal:
1) Disconnect the battery
2) Remove the center console trim piece, under the strorage drop down compartment remove the cross head screw. With the center console compartment open start by prying up on the trim piece carefully. Remove the connecters for the widows, T/C and door lock if you have one. Set it to the side.
3) Remove the shifter
4) Raise and support the vehicle with four jack stands or lift if you have one. It has to be high enough to slide the tranny out.
5) Remove exhaust from the headers
6) Drain the tranny
7) *Mark the driveshaft relation to diff yoke*. Remove the driveshaft from the diff yoke(three bolts) keeping the rubber cupler on the drive shaft. Remove the center carrier bearing, and slide out the driveshaft from the transmission.
8) With the transmission drained reinstall drain plug. Disconnect any electrical connectors from the tranny.
9) Support the transmission with a floor jack/tranny jack remove transmission cross member from tranny. Lower the tranny and remove the jack.
10) With plenty of extentions remove the top bolts(black) that connect the tranny to the bellhousing.
11) With the tranny jack supporting the transmisson, remove the remaining bolts.
12) Slide the transmission out carfully making sure that there are no other connections attatched to the transmission case.
13) Remove the bellhousing from the engine
14) Now you can remove the clutch and flywheel from the engine. If using the stock flywheel mark the location in relation to the crankshaft.

Install:
NOTE: Check the rear cover bolts for tightness
1) Reinstall flywheel. Apply locktight to bolts. Tighten down in star pattern in three step process. 
- First pass 15 lb ft
- Second pass 37 lb ft
- Final pass 74 lb ft
2) Install pressure plate using clutch alingment tool. Manufactures may have differant torque specs called out. Use the star pattern on these bolts too. I used some locktight on these bolts too you don't have too but I did because I'm using a twin disc clutch. GM calls out 52 lb ft. Remove alingment tool.
3) Reinstall bellhousing. Tighten bolts to 37 lb ft in a star pattern
4) Install new slave torque to 89 in lbs
5) Install tranny to bellhousing torque to 25 lb ft


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## Falco21 (May 11, 2010)

Awesome GM4Life!! When I get the clutch I will be doing this. It will save me quite a bit of money. I really appreciate it


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## GM4life (Mar 18, 2007)

:cheers

By that time I'll have it polished.


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## rwilson831 (Aug 23, 2004)

If you are going to do all that i recommend that you upgrade your master cylinder. I just did my clutch and slave cylinder and got a master cylinder from tick performance and what a difference. The shifting is way smoother and you can shift faster.


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## svede1212 (Nov 1, 2005)

Don't forget you need a torx socket to remove the driveshaft


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## GM4life (Mar 18, 2007)

svede1212 said:


> Don't forget you need a torx socket to remove the driveshaft


Don't remember any torx. Where is it at? I didn't need one.


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## svede1212 (Nov 1, 2005)

GM4life said:


> Don't remember any torx. Where is it at? I didn't need one.


The three bolts at the rear donut coupler. Some people have used a 12 point socket as it may work but doesn't exactly fit right. It's an E18 socket


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## GM4life (Mar 18, 2007)

svede1212 said:


> The three bolts at the rear donut coupler. Some people have used a 12 point socket as it may work but doesn't exactly fit right. It's an E18 socket


Yeah you don't need to remove those you can if you want, I removed the driveshaft from the donut, its common nut and bolt no need to buy a socket if you don't have it. Thats why in the directions I put keep the rubber on the pinion. I will add it to the above, it may be easier to remove and if you want to take a closer look at the donut and pinion.


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