# tri power woes



## johnnylightning03 (Nov 27, 2007)

any advise on tri power purchases. my experience so far is frustrating. i picked up a "nice" restored complete unit from off a guy in florida. looks great, carbs plated, original date coded tags. bad news- intake pitted along runners, rear carb had a pinhole in bowl, center carb threads pitted (leaked) and front float had gas in it. unit leaked every where. fixed major leaks, now has vacuum leaks around outer carb plates and wont idle unless blocked off with rags and rear carb still weeps fuel frome some where. too many problems for the money. the good news is he will return my money. are there any reputable tri power guys out there? how are the aftermarket units with aluminum manifolds from performance years? my car is a 4bbl wt (w 068 cam) motor any way, so the tri power wont be original. i was trying to go as "correct" as possible, but i'm ready to just put the original 4bbl set up on and save my money. i'm feeling unsafe with these older sets. just wondering which way to go. thanks


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## geeteeohguy (Feb 2, 2008)

Man, that sounds terrible. Good thing the guy's reputable and is returning your money. I've had many tripowers over the years, and have only had the float problem. Never ran into holes in the carb or pitting along the runners. That thing must have come out of a swamp! I recommend using a '66 set up. It's the best one, with a bigger center carb, and it will produce a noticeable difference in power over a '65 and earlier manifold. Because this is known, they're sought after. I have not tried the aluminum after market repops, but for the money, they seem reasonable. Those Rochester 2 jETS are easily rebuilt, and all parts are rairly cheap. Once done right, the tripower and carbs are a bulletproof performance modification, as anyone who drives one will attest to. Keep us posted. Again, corrosion of iron runners and holes in carbs bodies are not that common!
Jeff


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## johnnylightning03 (Nov 27, 2007)

thanks jeff, i also know of another set where carbs are painted with eastwood dye, rebuilt and manifold is good. center linkage on shaft is very loose and rear carb left side linkage to shaft is loose. otherwise complete and no pitting. the performance years set is 1700 with aluminum intake. also any feedback about tri power.com. i talked with mike and he seems knowledgeable. his sets go for 2150 or something? just just not sure which way to go and be somewhat cost effective. it seems no matter which way i go it wont be cheap.


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## geeteeohguy (Feb 2, 2008)

There was a complete one at the Pomona swap meet last month for $650. But it was a '65 set-up. It even had the right fuel lines. The more you "need" something, the more expensive it becomes. If you're not in a rush, one will turn up! Good luck.
Jeff


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## Tri-Power (Jan 10, 2008)

Just to corroborate what Jeff said. I have my original Tri-Power that I rebuilt about 4 years ago, and have not had any problems with since. It has been proven to be very reliable. I have seen a couple setups with fuel leaks, and other little problems but none with near the nightmares you described.


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## 123jboy (Nov 15, 2008)

I purchased a completly restored show quality set up for a '66 last year from a guy in the midwest. I bolted it on, installed the air cleaners, reconnected throttle cable and vac lines, started right up. It still runs awesome with no issues at all. I can look up the contact info if you are interested.


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## Rukee (Feb 8, 2007)

When I first got my set-up it leaked fuel from everywhere! They used the wrong gaskets at both the bases and the tops for all three carbs! Straightened everything out and it's been pretty much easy driving for over a decade now.


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## johnnylightning03 (Nov 27, 2007)

123jboy said:


> I purchased a completly restored show quality set up for a '66 last year from a guy in the midwest. I bolted it on, installed the air cleaners, reconnected throttle cable and vac lines, started right up. It still runs awesome with no issues at all. I can look up the contact info if you are interested.


sure, i would appreciate that. also guys here are some pics of the unit i purchased and will be returning. looks good right? has foam air cleaners as well. all #'s match except for outer throttle bases which are 31344 instead of 15211. just needs another rear float bowl section, center air horn, and outer throttle plates and could use another intake due to the pitting. i really dont want a repop unit, but i feel every original unit out there is a well dressed well you know. i appreciate your input. my first goal is to get my money back, then try again.


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## Rukee (Feb 8, 2007)

I see the one stud on the rear carb is a vaccuum source, you did block that when it was running, right?


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## johnnylightning03 (Nov 27, 2007)

Rukee said:


> I see the one stud on the rear carb is a vaccuum source, you did block that when it was running, right?


yes, had a vacuum cap on that. spray a little carb spray in the outer carbs or stuff rags in the air horns and you notice a major difference. i can see light around the plates with carbs off and usung a flashlight. he did use the dag 213 sealer around the plates too.


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## Rukee (Feb 8, 2007)

Are the plates the right ones?? They should be thick and tapered at the ends. I had a set rebuilt and the guy used the wrong plates, he used thin ones like reg carbs run and the fit was all wrong, like your describing. I had to get aftermarket bases and then it was good again.


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## johnnylightning03 (Nov 27, 2007)

Rukee said:


> Are the plates the right ones?? They should be thick and tapered at the ends. I had a set rebuilt and the guy used the wrong plates, he used thin ones like reg carbs run and the fit was all wrong, like your describing. I had to get aftermarket bases and then it was good again.


thanks rukee, i'll look at that. but with needing all that it does and a pitted manifold, either the seller would have to replace all the parts or refund me cash. at that point i would have too much money in as i already paid top dollar. this set just left a bad taste in my mouth. it must have been stored outside or pulled from a swamp like jeff said.


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## johnnylightning03 (Nov 27, 2007)

i did check the plates anyway as you sugessted rukee and they are the thick ones. i'll be refunded as of this saturday, so if any one has any leads or suggestions i'm all ears. thanks guys.


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## Rukee (Feb 8, 2007)

Remove the accellerator pump linkage rod and check the plate fit again. Just to rule it out ~that rod might hold open the plates slightly if missadjusted/bent too tight.


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## geeteeohguy (Feb 2, 2008)

I've found much hype about "worn" throttle plates and shafts over the years. More harm than good is usually done by "upgrading" them. Mine are original, and work fine, on both tri-power set-ups I have. Loose throttle shafts will not adversly effect driveability unless they are binding. Check it out. I recommend leaving OEM throttle plates ALONE.
Jeff


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## Rukee (Feb 8, 2007)

geeteeohguy said:


> I've found much hype about "worn" throttle plates and shafts over the years. More harm than good is usually done by "upgrading" them. Mine are original, and work fine, on both tri-power set-ups I have. Loose throttle shafts will not adversly effect driveability unless they are binding. Check it out. I recommend leaving OEM throttle plates ALONE.
> Jeff


That's good advice! My bases must have been stored outside uncovered at some point cause the inside bore was severely pitted, thus requiring the rebuilding/replacing.


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## johnnylightning03 (Nov 27, 2007)

Rukee said:


> Remove the accellerator pump linkage rod and check the plate fit again. Just to rule it out ~that rod might hold open the plates slightly if missadjusted/bent too tight.


i actually had the rear base off in my hand and with a flashlight could see light around the plates. i loosened the brass screws and shut the plates and retightened. still the same. appears plates and bores were corroded. i agree new bases are the answer as well. i do appreciate your knowledge, gives me great tips for my next set. if he would give me 2 new bases, a plated center air horn and a plated rear carb bowl, and another manifold i'd have something. i dont mind adjusting floats and tinkering, thats half the fun, but i paid almost asking price and dont want to spend more. bases are like 90 each or so right? another manifold 250+ and then a bowl section and air horn and so on.... i think i'll take my money and run. it's a shame, i love the look, and it was the niceset set i've seen in a while.


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## 123jboy (Nov 15, 2008)

This is the guy I bought mine from with great success.
eBay Motors: 1964 Pontiac GTO Tripower Show Quality Restoration (item 220353499888 end time Feb-06-09 06:44:55 PST)


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## johnnylightning03 (Nov 27, 2007)

123jboy said:


> This is the guy I bought mine from with great success.
> eBay Motors: 1964 Pontiac GTO Tripower Show Quality Restoration (item 220353499888 end time Feb-06-09 06:44:55 PST)


thanks, i will check him out. :cheers


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