# Buying my first GTO in a few days



## par4n1 (Jan 28, 2010)

I am to buy my first real GTO (no clone) in a few days. It is an all original 1968, 1 owner convertible with 85K miles, original paint, interior, carpet and every mechanical part original. It has never been wrecked, been setting in garage last 20 years and has no rust at all. The engine ran when parked but it has not been started since it was parked. The interior is in great shape. It has very few options Automatic with positraction and 400CDI 350HP 4bbl. Is this car worth 13000?
Can you use your judgement to help me figure if the car is a fair, good or great deal.
Thank you


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## D1147 (Sep 3, 2009)

Great find, I wish it was me that found it. I wouldn't hesitate to pay 15,000 if I had the chance. At 13K I would jump on it especially if its all original #'s matching. I sold my 68 gto rag top in 1998 and had regretted it ever since. Convertibles in that original condition are very rare. It might be worth leaving it just the way it is and not restoring, survivor cars are just super cool, but thats just my opinion.


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## par4n1 (Jan 28, 2010)

thank you but now I see an add in Hemmings for what looks to be better. Geesh I hope its ok to show you the link if not sorry
Hemmings Motor News: Pontiac GTO Classified Listings
Any thoughts? The car I am looking to get has kept me up the past few nights with excitement now I see this. Is it possable it is a pile of junk? It's got every option I was looking for prior to finding the other


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## Mike_V (Mar 10, 2006)

I'd like to track the original owner to ask what he was thinking - bench seat and column shifter?


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## Rukee (Feb 8, 2007)

par4n1 said:


> thank you but now I see an add in Hemmings for what looks to be better. Geesh I hope its ok to show you the link if not sorry
> Hemmings Motor News: Pontiac GTO Classified Listings
> Any thoughts? The car I am looking to get has kept me up the past few nights with excitement now I see this. Is it possable it is a pile of junk? It's got every option I was looking for prior to finding the other


It's impossable for us to say if it's junk or not, but if it's solid, you could change that first # in the price to a 2 or 3 and prolly get it if you hold out and find the right buyer.


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## geeteeohguy (Feb 2, 2008)

This day and age, that car is what I would call a "screamin' deal". It's unmolested and honest. I would jump all over it. '68 i9s a great year. Solid, well built, good handling, and fast. GO FOR IT! (Or tell ME where it is!)


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## Eric Animal (Oct 28, 2007)

IF it is as represented. AND the chassis isn't rusted out...it sounds like a real good buy...............Advise: Never go by how cars look in pictures. Go see them live! Good Luck!!!!:cheers Eric


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## Too Many Projects (Nov 15, 2008)

I would take the Gold over Green any day but the red flag on the gold one is the drivetrian being rebuilt at ~50k. The odo may show 80 but it's most likely rolled over and started over again. Still a nice car in the pics, but they don't show detail, such as bubbles under the paint from rust coming thru. I've been down the "buy it from pictures " road 4 times and it will never happen again. If you really want it, get on a plane and go see it in person. That plane ticket is a lot cheaper than a steaming pile of crap for 16K.
And hurry, because if it is that nice for that price, it won't last long....:willy:
Are you there yet...


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## par4n1 (Jan 28, 2010)

thanks all I have spoken to the original owner several times and it is original mileage. He states no rust other the service rust like whats in the trunk pan. It is mine and I will be driving 250 miles to view it, buy it and tow it, Should I put new greese in rear wheel bearings for the 250 mile tow home? I am concerned about all the dried rubber parts and seals through out. I am excited and I did find out it has Safe t track with I guess a sorta a rare 3.36 axle raito. It was a gift for finnishing College back in 68. I am so excited I can't sleep at night.


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## 66tempestGT (Nov 28, 2009)

just make sure there is some grease in it and dont forget to take out the driveshaft. i assume you are going to put the front on a tow dolly. just take your time and be careful.

arty:


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## Koppster (Jul 27, 2008)

If you're going to tow it back, spend a little extra and rent a U-Hual car hauler....makes life much easier and no stress on the car.

I rented one for $54 a day when I picked up my 64...money well spent

Rick


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## Koppster (Jul 27, 2008)

PS:

1. Have you ordered PHS documentation to ensure the car's authenticity? Don't trust copies, order your own.

2. I spent $300 to have a professional inspect my car, he found everything....again, pennies in light of the mistakes I might have made.

It's not too late and you really should consider this, even at the "great" price, $16K is a lot of change to lose if you find out the car is a rust bucket or a clone.


Rick


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## Too Many Projects (Nov 15, 2008)

par4n1 said:


> thanks all I have spoken to the original owner several times and it is original mileage. He states no rust other the service rust like whats in the trunk pan. It is mine and I will be driving 250 miles to view it, buy it and tow it, Should I put new greese in rear wheel bearings for the 250 mile tow home? I am concerned about all the dried rubber parts and seals through out. I am excited and I did find out it has Safe t track with I guess a sorta a rare 3.36 axle raito. It was a gift for finnishing College back in 68. I am so excited I can't sleep at night.


OK, are you referring to the Green car that has been sitting ?
I'm with Koppster, use a trailer. 
The rear bearings run in the lube in the axle so you would need to make sure it is full. Also Shane is right on about removing the driveshaft at the rear u-joint to prevent it spinning in the trans all that way, unlubricated. The tires are old and could blow out, how are you going to get lights on the back, if flat towing you need to repack the front bearings...etc.
I wouldn't even consider flat or dolly towing it that far.....


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## 66tempestGT (Nov 28, 2009)

:agree rent the trailer, you wont be sorry.


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## geeteeohguy (Feb 2, 2008)

That car has survived too long and is too nice to drag on a dolly. Trailer it.


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## par4n1 (Jan 28, 2010)

Too Many Projects said:


> OK, are you referring to the Green car that has been sitting ?
> I'm with Koppster, use a trailer.
> The rear bearings run in the lube in the axle so you would need to make sure it is full. Also Shane is right on about removing the driveshaft at the rear u-joint to prevent it spinning in the trans all that way, unlubricated. The tires are old and could blow out, how are you going to get lights on the back, if flat towing you need to repack the front bearings...etc.
> I wouldn't even consider flat or dolly towing it that far.....


is this this on? Is this reaching toomany projects


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## par4n1 (Jan 28, 2010)

geeteeohguy said:


> This day and age, that car is what I would call a "screamin' deal". It's unmolested and honest. I would jump all over it. '68 i9s a great year. Solid, well built, good handling, and fast. GO FOR IT! (Or tell ME where it is!)


Geeteeohguy which of the two cars are you speaking of? The original Green car or the gold car with all the options? I did learn when the Green car was stored away it was 100% functional. If I get the green GTO I will trailer it.
Thanks


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## Too Many Projects (Nov 15, 2008)

I went back and studied the Gold pictures carefully and I see what appears to be bubbles on the left front fender under the molding, and in the lower rear corner of both doors. To me, this indicates rust issues coming to the surface again. The front end doesn't look square with the car and shows light impact damage. I prefer the color and options also and if you are willing to live with the possibility of costly rust repair/panel replacement and repaint in the near future then consider it. 
On the other hand, we don't have the benefit of 24 pictures of the Green one to see what it is. Getting it from the original owner is a big plus and should provide the history and verification of the mileage. It could still have the same rust issues and need repair and paint too. You could always change the color of the Green car but it could detract from the "original" value at resale time.
It's a tough call.......I would lean towards the Green car because of the originality but if you really want the options on the Gold car, it isn't that much more money. The fact that the Gold car is listed on a popular website at a very tempting price and is still available gets me wondering if others have looked at it and seen reasons to not buy it. The Green car will need a thorough update before driving it. The brakes may need work for wheel cylinder leaks and at the least a complete fluid flush. Same with the engine and transmission; all new fluids and filters. It will most likely need all new tires. The top hasn't moved in 20+ years and may fall apart after a couple cycles. There are a lot of variables and I don't see it as a car you can just get started and drive away in without making sure it is safe and roadworthy. If time and funds permit, I encourage you to go see both of them in person and make your decision based on that encounter and your gut feeling.


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## Koppster (Jul 27, 2008)

:agree

As usual Mitch is spot on with sage advice

One more time: Order the PHS, unless you have your own copy you can not be certain if either of the cars are true GTOs....worth the $60.....$13K is not chump change

PHS Historic Services


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## par4n1 (Jan 28, 2010)

Koppster said:


> :agree
> 
> As usual Mitch is spot on with sage advice
> 
> ...


I have ordered and have in hand the PHS for the green car. It has the options the owner stated. I was told the car was running when it was parked and the GTO happened to be the one put in mothballs while driving 4 others. I do have pictures I didn't send you guys due to pixel sizes and am getting more today. I am told the interior is in excellent condishion. This car has Safe t track, am/ fm w/power antenna, road handeling package with stableizer shocks and springs (don't they all?), tinted glass in great shape, power bench seat with fold down arm rest, power steering and a few othe options with starting lamps and a few other lamps. 85K original miles, never wrecked and I will look at it. One the other hand the LA car is too good to be true, yes why wouldn't some local buy it, at that price many should have looked at it. I thought maybe there were pleny convertibles in Calf so the price would be lower. While writting this I am now leanig towards the green original. There is not supossed to be any rust any where and having 100% of its factiog paint sounds great. I will trailer this car back myself.


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## par4n1 (Jan 28, 2010)

Koppster said:


> :agree
> 
> As usual Mitch is spot on with sage advice
> 
> ...


I posted 2 close up shots of the rust damage on the gold GTO. I posted them in the classic GTO restoration picture area although i didn't title the pictures.


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## GTO JUDGE (May 14, 2005)

If I am not mistaken the engine color for a 68 was not Robbin egg blue but Medium Blue metallic. Robin Egg appears to be the color in the picture. Also make sure shift on the column is not going to bother you down the road.


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## par4n1 (Jan 28, 2010)

*Hey there's a little rust.... and there and there and there*

WRONG!!! 
10 hours of driving and 600 miles. The car that had no rust needed a trunk pan, 2 quarters, a front fender, rocker work and rust around the windsheild, I didn't bother to pull up the carpet.


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## TORRED1 (Apr 1, 2007)

par4n1 said:


> WRONG!!!
> 10 hours of driving and 600 miles. The car that had no rust needed a trunk pan, 2 quarters, a front fender, rocker work and rust around the windsheild, I didn't bother to pull up the carpet.


Thought I saw a fully rusted trunk pan, arent you glad you looked at it before buying, It may have cost you some time and gas but saved a lot of moolaa in the end, also the wheels were hubcaps off what looked like a 67 pontiac, where were the steel wheels and trim rings that would have been on the original.


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## gtodycha (Jan 12, 2007)

*What is rust free nowadays.*

I purchased a 69 ragtop in Florida. It was a red on red automatic with air. I went through the car 18 years ago. Even back then "rust free" was a rare find unless it was properly garage kept, rarely driven etc. There is currently an rs Z-28 that is a clean car on the market right now but it will still need to be completely cosmetically gone through...properly....still big bucks. 
Right or wrong, I stripped mine, painted it athenian blue to match one I had in high school and converted it to a 4 speed properly.. It is believed to be the original motor and is an off frame resto. This car has been gone over totally, underside body colour, new interior, top, complete motor job, new windshield with all new butt welded dash and window frame, new trunk pan and quarters, rust free decklid WITH the trim edge etc. Air not working, added power windows, tilt and power trunk.The car has electrical problems and it will need to be repainted due to a paint bonding problem on the exterior panels only. Don't know what happened but it is still very straight and has only had 5000 miles on it since the old resto. 
I am ridiculously underinvested into this car and might be interested in moving it. 
What you need to explain is are you building a trailer queen or a driver? The sprayed car looks like it MAY have been gone over quickly and would make a great driver...low ball the seller and see if he bites. Restoring a restored car, purchased for big dollars in my opinion is a waste. Start from scratch. 
I will one day restore another car with my son, sell or rehab my current GTO. Being 45 years old..if I get my hands dirty again, it is going to be something special for sure....meanwhile I drive my 97 SS Camaro rag and it is a thrill. 
I summize my banter with..what are you looking for? I hope this gives you some thoughts and good luck..
What would my car be worth??????????


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## par4n1 (Jan 28, 2010)

gtodycha said:


> I purchased a 69 ragtop in Florida. It was a red on red automatic with air. I went through the car 18 years ago. Even back then "rust free" was a rare find unless it was properly garage kept, rarely driven etc. There is currently an rs Z-28 that is a clean car on the market right now but it will still need to be completely cosmetically gone through...properly....still big bucks.
> Right or wrong, I stripped mine, painted it athenian blue to match one I had in high school and converted it to a 4 speed properly.. It is believed to be the original motor and is an off frame resto. This car has been gone over totally, underside body colour, new interior, top, complete motor job, new windshield with all new butt welded dash and window frame, new trunk pan and quarters, rust free decklid WITH the trim edge etc. Air not working, added power windows, tilt and power trunk.The car has electrical problems and it will need to be repainted due to a paint bonding problem on the exterior panels only. Don't know what happened but it is still very straight and has only had 5000 miles on it since the old resto.
> I am ridiculously underinvested into this car and might be interested in moving it.
> What you need to explain is are you building a trailer queen or a driver? The sprayed car looks like it MAY have been gone over quickly and would make a great driver...low ball the seller and see if he bites. Restoring a restored car, purchased for big dollars in my opinion is a waste. Start from scratch.
> ...


Thank you I did leave there telling him I thought the car need 7K in body work not including primmer and paint. He shownd me a 1/4" stack of emails of those waiting to view the car. I feel a body man may get it but who knows I think all that see it after reading the description will be dissapointed. He knows how to get in touch with me and for 7 or 8K then it might be a good deal. I am looking for driver only to tinker with to hand down to my son who is 13. Some of my fondest memories of my father was when we worked on cars together and I want to keep my son close to me in these trying years. I feel I am out guned when it comes to alloted money, my bride is balking at much more then 15K but to spend that on a nice solid car and slowly spend more to upgrade it is ok. It pains me to talk about money as it can be rather embarrasing talking 
those sums of moneis when many spend four times that for their cars. I am looking for that pie in the sky and add to that impulse buying and I find my self drive across the country looking at cars locals didn"t want in the first place


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## geeteeohguy (Feb 2, 2008)

Sorry it didn't pan out, but what a good thing you DID go and check it out. It was money and time well spent on your "GTO education". I almost bought a house once that would of been a huge mistake had I not paid over $1000 to have it thoroughly checked out. Be patient, the "right one" will come along. Body and rust repair is the most expensive and difficult thing to repair on these cars, and is extremely difficult to do well. Hang in there. That car sure looked good in the photos! Just goes to show you.....


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## 68greengoat (Sep 15, 2005)

geeteeohguy said:


> It was money and time well spent on your "GTO education".


Exactly. Just think how much you've learned(it's a never ending process) by seeing it in person and all the information you gained by the questions you asked. The next one you look at, you'll know what to look for and where. So, all was not lost. Stay positive!


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