# Corrosion in timing cover, advice



## ylwgto (Oct 27, 2009)

So I finally got around to beginning the instal of my new CVF belt kit. I took apart front engine accessories, including water pump, only to discover pretty significant corrosion on the inner and outer timing cover. The car sat a while, so not surprised to see this scaling, but looking for advice. It's a '69 400 with the 11 bolt cover.

1. the coolant sleeves are stuck in the cover. any chemical reaction or other method to remove them anyone knows about? i hesitate to go at them with pliers for fear of breaking off the flange and having the rest of the sleeve stuck in there.

2. the main coolant inlet is heavily coroded. I've sanded it and scraped and it still feels like there is enough aluminum to hold a hose and clamp. should i be concerend? it was not leaking before.

3. is there a way to descale the inside of the timing cover before reinstalling the pump/plate/sleeves, aside from just scraping it? There is some serious scaliness in there.

I'd like to avoid replacing the timing cover. Thanks in advance.


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## Old Man Taylor (May 9, 2011)

I think you would be smart to replace the front cover.


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## PontiacJim (Dec 29, 2012)

You shouldn't even need to ask a question like that........the timing cover is toast. I can only imagine what it may have done to the radiator core with all that corrosion floating around. Might be a good thing to flush your cooling system out before adding your anti-freeze.


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## ylwgto (Oct 27, 2009)

PontiacJim said:


> You shouldn't even need to ask a question like that........the timing cover is toast. I can only imagine what it may have done to the radiator core with all that corrosion floating around. Might be a good thing to flush your cooling system out before adding your anti-freeze.


Yeah, thought it looked pretty bad...dang. 

In that case, a few more questions. I've never done this job. Please let me know if there is a DIY thread for the topic.

-Is an impact wrench needed to pull the balancer? 
-Do you have to pull the oil pan to do the timing cover job, or can you just replace the cork pan-to-cover seal at the front? 
-Any sealant between the block and cover or just bare gasket?

Where would you recommend sourcing the cover, gasket set and crank seal? 
Thanks!!

Ive already pulled the radiator as well (it looked fine inside).


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## ylwgto (Oct 27, 2009)

Old Man Taylor said:


> I think you would be smart to replace the front cover.


Thank you. Where would you recommend sourcing one?


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## Old Man Taylor (May 9, 2011)

One of the pontiac aftermarket parts places. I would use Ames if they have it. I do not like using an impact wrench. I use a breaker bar with a pipe extension. You do not have to take off the pan. I use silicon seal on the gaskets, but use it sparingly and spread it out.


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## ylwgto (Oct 27, 2009)

Old Man Taylor said:


> One of the pontiac aftermarket parts places. I would use Ames if they have it. I do not like using an impact wrench. I use a breaker bar with a pipe extension. You do not have to take off the pan. I use silicon seal on the gaskets, but use it sparingly and spread it out.



Ok, thanks. A little bit of good news I suppose!


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## ylwgto (Oct 27, 2009)

...also, when the new sleeves go into the cover do they require any sealant around them?


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## Old Man Taylor (May 9, 2011)

I don't use any.


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## pontrc (Mar 18, 2020)

Inspect the timing chain while you have it down this far


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## PontiacJim (Dec 29, 2012)

As pointed out, pretty straight forward. The large balancer bolt gets torqued to 160 ft lbs and must be torqued or it can loosen up and crack and take out the engine.

I think you can get a Felpro gasket set used when replacing the timing chain and should have all you gaskets. Assume you timing chain looks good and not a lot of slop? If so, then time for new gears and chain while it is all apart. If the cam gear is aluminum and has nylon teeth, it's original and definitely needs to be replaced - its junk.

Clearance the water pump impeller to the divider. A How-To is posted as a Sticky here on the forum. Simple enough to do.

You may encounter a problem with the rubber O-ring seal that goes between the front of the intake and back of the timing cover. Normally you install the cover with the intake bolts loose. Then tighten (torque) the long timing cover bolt to draw the intake tight up against the rubber O-ring seal, then tighten the intake bolts. But you probably won't be doing that, so put a layer of whatever silicone sealer works best with coolant on both sides of the O-ring which may do the trick so you don't have a leak there.

At this point, you may also want to replace the balancer with a new one. The old factory balancer has an outer ring that can slip or even exit the center hub as it has a rubber bond that can dry rot. I think you can get one new for $99.00?


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## RMTZ67 (Mar 12, 2011)

Its not as complicated as it sounds. there are videos all over youtube along with help from the guys here you will be fine. I used Rocky's Rotella's book along with help from the guys to rebuild my engine...but I had never rebuilt one to the extent of this one, and my first pontiac at that. Like pontrc and pontiac jim said...it would be best to check you timing chain as well. here are before and after pics of mine😱. along with a pic of the Rocky book I used. You can rent/loan balancer pullers from auto parts store.


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## ylwgto (Oct 27, 2009)

PontiacJim said:


> As pointed out, pretty straight forward. The large balancer bolt gets torqued to 160 ft lbs and must be torqued or it can loosen up and crack and take out the engine.
> 
> I think you can get a Felpro gasket set used when replacing the timing chain and should have all you gaskets. Assume you timing chain looks good and not a lot of slop? If so, then time for new gears and chain while it is all apart. If the cam gear is aluminum and has nylon teeth, it's original and definitely needs to be replaced - its junk.
> 
> ...



Thanks, PontiacJim.

I will indeed check the timing chain while it is exposed. I haven't done timing gears in 30 years (different car), so will research the "how to" on this if it is sloppy.

I've already purchased a Flow Kooler pump with stainless plate and sleeves and have clearanced the divider. I thought I'd have the water pump back on by now!!

I am also changing my Street Dominator single plane manifold to a P4B dual plane I restored to get some low end grunt back. I am aware of the o-ring pulling bolt, then manifold bolt method, but thanks for bringing that up.

I also came across info on the old balancer separating. Powerbond/Dayco seems to sell a well rated one for $60. Any experience with these?



https://butlerperformance.com/i-24453459-powerbond-dayco-pontiac-68-79-except-301-stock-replacement-4-bolt-harmonic-balancers-dampers-pbo-pb1056n.html?ref=category:1234723



Again, thanks for the advice. I've had my goat since 1993 and this is the longest it hasn't been running.


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## ylwgto (Oct 27, 2009)

RMTZ67 said:


> Its not as complicated as it sounds. there are videos all over youtube along with help from the guys here you will be fine. I used Rocky's Rotella's book along with help from the guys to rebuild my engine...but I had never rebuilt one to the extent of this one, and my first pontiac at that. Like pontrc and pontiac jim said...you'll it would be best to check you timing chain as well. here are before and after pics of mine😱. along with The Rocky book. You can rent/loan balancer pullers from auto parts store.



Thanks, RMTZ67. We'll see how sloppy mine is (or not). Appreciate the book suggestion...I'll order today.


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## ylwgto (Oct 27, 2009)

RMTZ67 said:


> Its not as complicated as it sounds. there are videos all over youtube along with help from the guys here you will be fine. I used Rocky's Rotella's book along with help from the guys to rebuild my engine...but I had never rebuilt one to the extent of this one, and my first pontiac at that. Like pontrc and pontiac jim said...you'll it would be best to check you timing chain as well. here are before and after pics of mine😱. along with The Rocky book. You can rent/loan balancer pullers from auto parts store.


By the way, is that offset ring on the cam gear what drives the fuel pump? 
Thanks


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## pontrc (Mar 18, 2020)

Yes it does 👍


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## Old Man Taylor (May 9, 2011)

Yes, that's called the fuel pump eccentric.


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## ylwgto (Oct 27, 2009)

Ok, so I'm asking in advance here. I have no idea if I need to replace my timing chain yet, but let's assume I do. I want to be sure I know what I'm doing when I do this part of the job.

Will everything "stay in place" when the gear/chain combo are slid off the shafts or will the lifter springs force the cam to "move" some? I'm aware of the 12-12 dot line up, but do not know the actual procedure and I've never "degreed" a cam. My engine is still in the car, remember. hoping it is just a slide off, slide on job 

Does a gear set come with the needle bearing plate that goes between the cam gear and retaining plate or is that bought separately? 

Do I reuse the eccentric and cam bolt or get new? torque spec on that?

Assuming the crank gear is held in place by the balancer and crank bolt?

cannot thank you all enough for the help!! The job got bigger than I expected


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## pontrc (Mar 18, 2020)

Check it first , if it has excessive play in the chain as RMTZ s pics show or a nylon gear as Jim mentions.If all steel and slack is ok should be good to go. If you need to replace turn the engine by hand till the dots line up cam gear 6 o clock, crank gear 12 o clock. You will probably need a puller for the crank gear it uses a key way to line it up


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## ylwgto (Oct 27, 2009)

pontrc said:


> Check it first , if it has excessive play in the chain as RMTZ s pics show or a nylon gear as Jim mentions.If all steel and slack is ok should be good to go. If you need to replace turn the engine by hand till the dots line up cam gear 6 o clock, crank gear 12 o clock. You will probably need a puller for the crank gear it uses a key way to line it up


Ok, I'll get the cover off and share pics of chain slack for further advice.


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## ylwgto (Oct 27, 2009)

So to untighten the balancer bolt, any tricks to keep the engine from turning? I have an automatic, so cannot put it in gear. I guess same question for getting it back on torqued to 160 ft lb.


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## ylwgto (Oct 27, 2009)

Took fuel pump off to get a peek at timing chain flex. It has some significant play, for sure. I can probably push the chain inward about 1/4". What is acceptable play? Took a video, but no way to post that here. Attached is a probably unhelpful pic of "before" and "after" i pushed on chain with a screwdriver.

So, I'll plan to replace it

I read the long post over at PY: Timing chain sets - Page 9 - PY Online Forums - Bringing the Pontiac Hobby Together

...and still am not sure what timing set I should get for a mild, street driven car. Any suggestions? 
And any links to a DIY on this? Messing up the timing makes me a bit nervous, as it is outside my experience.


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## pontrc (Mar 18, 2020)

Soak it with Pb blaster or wd40 you do not want it to break off in the crank. Sounds crazy but I dropped the dust cover on the bellhousing put a set of vice grips on the flywheel turned the pull bar until it wedged against the block , stopped it from turning. Be mindful of the flywheel teeth and starter


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## O52 (Jan 27, 2019)

Paul Spotts Performance is where I bought my timing chain, lifters, valve springs etc. I was overwhelmed by all the choices and decided to go with a well known Pontiac builder. Bought the TCS 06 chain.



http://www.spottsperformance.com


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## Old Man Taylor (May 9, 2011)

I like the TCS07. It gives you more flexibility later if you degree your camshaft. 

The cam will not move, so you will be able to slip them on and off. HOWEVER, since the timing chain is loose, the cam will be slightly retarded. You will have to move the cam ever so little to get the new timing gear over the cam key.


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## PontiacJim (Dec 29, 2012)

ylwgto said:


> Thanks, PontiacJim.
> 
> I will indeed check the timing chain while it is exposed. I haven't done timing gears in 30 years (different car), so will research the "how to" on this if it is sloppy.
> 
> ...


Late to the game, had to pull a 14 hour day.

Yep, the Powerbond balancer will work, I was not sure what the price was.

Lot of opinions on timing chains & gears. You don't have to spend a fortune on one and don't need anything trick for your engine. The stock type chain and gear will do the job if you want to go inexpensive. The next step up is a double roller. I used a double roller on my last 400CI build and when I disassembled the engine with over 20,000 miles of hard use, the chain was just as tight as when I installed it - ie no stretch. They stretch less than the typical link style chain. You can go another step up and get the crank gear with several keyway positions so you can advance/retard the cam. Never used one, and never dialed in a cam either, just lined up the "dots." However, it seems todays quality with parts cam be hit/miss with many parts made overseas. So it would be a good idea to degree the cam just to ensure the crank gears are on the money. So you can get a crank gear having 9 different installation positions to degree the cam or you can use a single keyway gear and use an offset keyway that will move the crank gear to bring it in where you need it. Again, you could just as easily line up your present set of gears, dot-to-dot, then remove the gears and chain. When you re-install your new chain/gears, they should slide right back into position and be dot-to-dot. If you find you cannot and you have to turn the either gear to get things fitted, then that is when I would want to now degree my cam to make sure my gears/cam timing is correct.

Most cams also have a built-in 4 degree advance.

I knew you might ask about the balancer bolt removal. You can loosen the bolt by using a long bar/extension on a breaker bar, let it hit the ground, and then bump the engine - coil wire disconnected so it will not start. The engine rotates to the right looking at it, and to loosen the bolt you go left. So bumping the engine will break the bolt loose and then use a ratchet for the remainder. However, the above can work, but if it slips off you can do damage. So, read post #6 by BearGFR which is a better method to remove and then install.









Harmonic Balancer Install


After replacing the timing chain in my 455, I borrowed an install tool to replace the balancer. I was surprised with a little lube and a firm push, it slid right on, I didn't even need the tool. Is this unusual for a Pontiac V8? Also my cordless impact has about 130 lb/ft of torque. Is that...




www.gtoforum.com





Also, I don't know if your replacement timing cover comes with the timing chain-to-block alignment dowels. If not, you may be able to use your old ones, or purchase new ones.









1969-77 Pontiac, GTO, Firebird Timing Chain Cover To Block Alignment Sleeve Pair


1969-77 Pontiac, GTO, Firebird Timing Chain Cover To Block Alignment Sleeve Pair




www.inlinetube.com


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## ylwgto (Oct 27, 2009)

Great stuff, thanks for all the tips.

I ordered a Kauffman timing cover today, looks like a great quality product and I was able to email with Jeff directly A++

I also ordered a FelPro gasket kit, but it looks like it comes with extra o-rings (unless it is just a stock pic). I'm assuming I only need block to cover gasket, cover to intake grommet, cover to oil pan cork and fuel pump gasket, right?

Awesome help with the timing info. I'll order from Spotts tomorrow. Probably the 07 set, since it currently has a double roller on it. Do i need anything else besides the gear and chain set? any break in lube?

Next up, tackling the balancer bolt. I'm tempted to go with PontiacJim's engine bump (!), but will probably drop the dust shield and do the vice grip thing.

PintiacJim, those sleeves you mention are just for allignment, then you remove them? are these different that the split washers I've seen with some of the gasket kits that you tap into the block to "rest" the cover on while installing?

Will take a while for these parts to show up, but I'll check back in with next steps. Thanks fellas.


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## Old Man Taylor (May 9, 2011)

To loosen the crank bolt, I put a screwdriver in between the teeth of the flex plate teeth and turn the engine enough for the screwdriver to hit the block. An easier way by yourself is to NY a flywheel Turner (I forget the real name). It will stay in place easier whole you turn the engine by the crank bolt until it hits the block - works every time.


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## ylwgto (Oct 27, 2009)

Thanks to PontiacJim! I took the renegade approach and did the engine bump and the bolt freed up immediately (will use the flywheel method when tightening).

There is less play in the chain than I thought and the gears/chain look pretty good. More play in chain on driver side than passenger side. What do you all think? Replace or not?

Balancer shows some cracking to the rubber, so I think I'll replace that. 

Front seal was leaking, so it'll be nice to have that dealt with in the process.


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## PontiacJim (Dec 29, 2012)

ylwgto said:


> Great stuff, thanks for all the tips.
> 
> I ordered a Kauffman timing cover today, looks like a great quality product and I was able to email with Jeff directly A++
> 
> ...


Oil up the chain and gears with motor oil and you will be good to go.

The sleeves go in the block at the bottom on the right and left of the crank gear. Look at post #12 and in the pic you will see the 2 holes. You can just about see the step that they fit into. Then the timing cover goes over them.

Read this post from PY with regards to the KRE timing cover. Yours may be perfect, but just in case, take note of what the purchaser encountered so you know what to look for and/or correct.






KRE timing cover problems? - PY Online Forums - Bringing the Pontiac Hobby Together


KRE timing cover problems? Pontiac - Street



forums.maxperformanceinc.com


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## pontrc (Mar 18, 2020)

X2 looks good, glad it worked out 👍


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## ylwgto (Oct 27, 2009)

PontiacJim said:


> Oil up the chain and gears with motor oil and you will be good to go.
> 
> The sleeves go in the block at the bottom on the right and left of the crank gear. Look at post #12 and in the pic you will see the 2 holes. You can just about see the step that they fit into. Then the timing cover goes over them.
> 
> ...



Thanks. Bummed to hear of issues with the KRE covers. I'm tempted to cancel the order and buy elsewhere to avoid those issues mentioned.


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## PontiacJim (Dec 29, 2012)

Chain/gears have been replaced with a double roller. Slack? Not too bad. If on a budget, should be OK. Tried to find a guide as too what is too much slack, and the Pontiac assembly manual just said, "if chain is excessively loose, replace." LOL I don't think yours is excessively loose. I've seen/removed worse and the engine still ran.

Yep, replace the balancer seeing it is showing its age.

On the timing cover, it may just be a fluke that the guy who had problems with it had. Have not checked today to see if he ever got a reply/resolve from KRE. In all reality, that's how a lot of repop stuff goes - its almost correct, but you still have to do some tweaking to it.


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## pontrc (Mar 18, 2020)

The aluminum cover I got From Ames was a nice product


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## ylwgto (Oct 27, 2009)

I ordered one from Summit. Pioneer brand. Showed up in one day. Made in Mexico, but quality looks quite good. We'll see.

Next question is about painting. I'm gonna paint the cover and water pump while off, but I've got to do the block and heads and valley pan while in the car. I'm a good painter and know about cleaning/prep/masking etc. But, should I spray or brush? Recommended paint brands? I'm considering spraying/brushing the engine compartment while I'm at it as well (after the engine). Lot's of folks on the HAMB forum recommend brushing with enamel paint and a hardener. Anyone have experience with that, never done this myself.

Thanks.


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## O52 (Jan 27, 2019)

Pontiac Engine Colors







www.pontiacpower.org


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## ylwgto (Oct 27, 2009)

O52 said:


> Pontiac Engine Colors
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Thanks, I found this as well myself a few weeks ago and ordered the correct duplicolor spray bomb, but am now wondering if the brush method is better to limit overspray etc.


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## Old Man Taylor (May 9, 2011)

I always sprayed.


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## BearGFR (Aug 25, 2008)

Tip on that fuel pump eccentric. When the cam timing gear is installed properly, there should be a few thousandths worth of cam nose sticking out past the face of the cam gear. It's important because this is what centers the pump eccentric. 

Reproduction timing covers are also available from Kauffman. Kauffman Racing Equipment

It's important to use the right tools on that balancer, if you choose to replace it. Factory balancers can frequently be removed and installed without having to use a puller or an installer, but if you get one that's a little tight and needs some persuasion to install, do NOT do that with a hammer or an impact tool. You'll kill the thrust surface on the main bearing if you do. Be sure to use an installer tool that can "draw" the balancer on. If you're doing it in the car and don't remove the radiator (and a/c condenser if equipped) it can be tough to get the keyway on the balancer lined up with the key on the crank because you can't see. It helps to mark on the outside of the balancer with a sharpie so you know where the keyway is. You can also file some small chamfers on the outside leading corners of the crank key to help guide it on. 

If your block doesn't have the alignment sleeves for the timing cover on the two lowest bolt holes, or if the cover you get doesn't use them (Kauffman's doesn't) then don't tighten down the cover bolts all the way until after you've installed the balancer. Leave them just loose enough so that the cover can move a little. That way when you install the balancer it'll be able to move the cover so that the seal is centered on the balancer hub and won't leak. Tighten them after it's on.

Bear


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## ylwgto (Oct 27, 2009)

BearGFR said:


> Tip on that fuel pump eccentric. When the cam timing gear is installed properly, there should be a few thousandths worth of cam nose sticking out past the face of the cam gear. It's important because this is what centers the pump eccentric.
> 
> Reproduction timing covers are also available from Kauffman. Kauffman Racing Equipment
> 
> ...



My stock balancer slid right off, no tools needed. Hoping the "stock" replacement from Dayco/Powerbond does the same. I assume once lined up it just slides over the crank nose then the thick washer and crankbolt tightens it down...no other parts in there, correct? I'm going to do the flywheel vice grip method for getting it to torque.

If it does have some resistance, is an installer tool the one you can rent at the store, or is that just a puller? My radiator is indeed out, so that is good. I'll use your keyway tips for sure. Thanks.

My cover does have recesses for the allignment sleeves, so I'll plan on using them to ensure a good front seal.

Great info, Thanks BearGFR!


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## BearGFR (Aug 25, 2008)

ylwgto said:


> If it does have some resistance, is an installer tool the one you can rent at the store, or is that just a puller? My radiator is indeed out, so that is good. I'll use your keyway tips for sure. Thanks.


It's normally a different tool from the puller. There's a bolt that threads into the crank snout, and there's also a collar threaded on that bolt that sits flat against the face of the balancer. That collar you turn with a wrench to push the balancer on. I got lucky with my balancer puller. The tip of the center bolt is removable and it just so happens that the threads on that bolt are the same as the balancer bolt, so I can thread it into the crank snout and then turn the puller body to push the balancer on. I'm running a Romac SFI-rated balancer on my car and it fits tight enough that I have to use the tool both to pull and to re-install it. 

Bear


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## Old Man Taylor (May 9, 2011)

Stock balancers should slip right on and off. Racing balancers have a slight interference fit.


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## ylwgto (Oct 27, 2009)

Here's a heater hose question.
what is the proper routing for a '66? Currently, the hose from the timing cover hugs the block along the plug wires to the heater inlet. Is that right, or should it swing out further over the fender well?
When you guys replace these do you buy specific moulded hoses or just get cut to fit heater hose?
thanks


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## RMTZ67 (Mar 12, 2011)

Mine is a 67 and I have it routed to the fender well and bought cut to fit.


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## ylwgto (Oct 27, 2009)

Finally got to this project, *thanks to all for all the help and wisdom*. It spiraled into a bit of a bigger project than I anticipated, but I'm almost done and eager to hear it run again.


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## RMTZ67 (Mar 12, 2011)

ylwgto said:


> Finally got to this project, *thanks to all for all the help and wisdom*. It spiraled into a bit of a bigger project than I anticipated, but I'm almost done and eager to hear it run again.


Story of our lives. I don't think there is one person here that hasn't said those exact words. "spiraled into a bit of a bigger project than I anticipated" If you ever have some free time to read, try my post "cracked my 400 for a cam and this is what I found" Good luck...you'll be fine.


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## ylwgto (Oct 27, 2009)

RMTZ67 said:


> Story of our lives. I don't think there is one person here that hasn't said those exact words. "spiraled into a bit of a bigger project than I anticipated" If you ever have some free time to read, try my post "cracked my 400 for a cam and this is what I found" Good luck...you'll be fine.



Thanks RMTZ67! Quite a saga you had over those 6 months, made for a good read and definitely made for a better car when all said and done. You've got a great car.

I'm pretty much done with all the mechanical work, just need to plumb in the radiator, set linkage and wire the new fan relays. Fingers crossed no leaks or gremlins!


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## PontiacJim (Dec 29, 2012)

ylwgto said:


> Thanks RMTZ67! Quite a saga you had over those 6 months, made for a good read and definitely made for a better car when all said and done. You've got a great car.
> 
> I'm pretty much done with all the mechanical work, just need to plumb in the radiator, set linkage and wire the new fan relays. Fingers crossed no leaks or gremlins!


Is your PCV valve hooked up? Looks kinda funky in the picture, but may be OK - just checking.


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## RMTZ67 (Mar 12, 2011)

ylwgto said:


> Thanks RMTZ67! Quite a saga you had over those 6 months, made for a good read and definitely made for a better car when all said and done. You've got a great car.
> 
> I'm pretty much done with all the mechanical work, just need to plumb in the radiator, set linkage and wire the new fan relays. Fingers crossed no leaks or gremlins!


Thanks...Ya it was quite an adventure. A little intimidating to say the least but happy with the results. Added ram air manifolds, 2.5 exhaust, aftermarket gauges and 4 wheel disc brakes while I was at it. Looks like your is coming along well. More work but in the end a much better results.


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## ylwgto (Oct 27, 2009)

PontiacJim said:


> Is your PCV valve hooked up? Looks kinda funky in the picture, but may be OK - just checking.


Yep, goes from the grommet in the valley pan around the carb base to the vacuum port on the front of the carb (maybe you are seeing the rear heater hose?)
Thanks for checking though!


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## PontiacJim (Dec 29, 2012)

ylwgto said:


> Yep, goes from the grommet in the valley pan around the carb base to the vacuum port on the front of the carb (maybe you are seeing the rear heater hose?)
> Thanks for checking though!



No, I see the black hoses, carb & intake connections, just looked weird. I guess you have the grommet at the rear of the valley pan and I am used to seeing the grommet/PCV valve coming off the front (1968 and up?).


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## ylwgto (Oct 27, 2009)

PontiacJim said:


> No, I see the black hoses, carb & intake connections, just looked weird. I guess you have the grommet at the rear of the valley pan and I am used to seeing the grommet/PCV valve coming off the front (1968 and up?).



Didn't realize that '68 and up had the PCV grommet at the front of the pan. My engine is a '68 400, so I guess it has an earlier pan on it? Anyhow, seems to work ok. I always wondered if I needed a PCV valve cover cap with hosing that went to the air cleaner base, but the system seems to breath ok with the crank case hose and the 2 breathers on the valve covers.
Thanks!


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