# 1967 GTO convertable



## sprdada76 (May 5, 2013)

hey I bought a 1967 GTO last year still under construction
I think someone switched the 3 speed for a 4 speed muncie
that was ok but I can't get it into reverse......
any ideas...thanks


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## geeteeohguy (Feb 2, 2008)

What's happening? Is it binding, or is the linkage even hooked up? Look under the car and see what's going on. Possible linkage issues, etc.


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## sprdada76 (May 5, 2013)

Thanks for answering ......It just will not go into reverse
I am believing that reverse in to the left and up?
But other than 1-2-3-4 gears it doesn't move to any other position?


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## sprdada76 (May 5, 2013)

Also I am fairly sure its a 4 speed its had the 2 shafts on the plate and one on the tail piece. The shifter has 3 rods on it. Some else had been working on this car so I can take nothing for granted.


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## geeteeohguy (Feb 2, 2008)

If it has an aluminum case it's a muncie 4 speed. The 3 speeds were cast iron. Make sure the rod and arm on the tailhousing are moving....that's reverse gear. To the left and up is correct for the 4 speed.


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## Rukee (Feb 8, 2007)

I had a broken cotter pin and the rev rod fell off the tranny lever. On the day of my wedding reception and during some pictures no less.


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## geeteeohguy (Feb 2, 2008)

Ruk, if you use the Hurst spring clips instead of cotter pins, you won't have that happen. Additionally, the clips keep the rods snug (under spring pressure) against the bellcrank, so they don't vibrate and rattle. They come in a kit with new bushings, too. It's a win-win.


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## chuckha62 (Apr 5, 2010)

It's likely that the gate adjustment is off and blocking the lever from transitioning into the reverse shift plate. That can be easily adjusted by removing the linkage from the lever on the tail housing and aligning the gate with a 3/16' (If I recall correctly) drill bit. With the bit in place, adjust the shift rod length to drop into the lever hole.


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## sprdada76 (May 5, 2013)

Hey any one with a convertible.....I am trying to connect the black wire coming out of the firewall ....problem is there is nothing there...no battery junction block...no relay....
I know its suppose to get over to the battery somehow. Would someone please send me a pic of that happens to that black wire after it comes out of the firewall
Thanks


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## gjones (Oct 8, 2012)

*Drop top block*

You're talking about the roof switch wire? If so, mine has a connector at the battery terminal, then goes to a junction block on the firewall, (on drivers' side under the master cylinder, near the inside of the fender). Then goes to the switch. Of course, mine is a '66, but can only assume that it's similar, if not identical. Others should be able to tell you if it's different.  I will attempt to take a pic, when I go out there tonight...


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## gjones (Oct 8, 2012)

*Electro-block*

Sprdada76, here are some pics of the block which are slightly lower than midway down and to the right of the center of the booster (as you face it):






















Gad! Looks like I'll have to do a little cleaning and touch up, or get a new camera! But you get the picture.


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## geeteeohguy (Feb 2, 2008)

Sprdada, as shown. The black wire goes directly to the pigtail attached to the POS battery cable, at the battery.


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## sprdada76 (May 5, 2013)

thanks.........is there a relay anywere in the system?

appriecate the help


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## gjones (Oct 8, 2012)

*block*

Nope. Not on mine. Just that junction block. (Like gtohguy said, may not even need that block- direct connection, I dunno).


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## geeteeohguy (Feb 2, 2008)

No relay in the system. I'll have to look at mine and see if it has a junction block. Can't remember.


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## sprdada76 (May 5, 2013)

you guys are great thanks...........
heres another one...I'm trying to get the rear brake light to work
I get 11v thru the ometer on the brown wire, at the brake light but it will not turn on??
the bulbs are new and do work. Ground is good
any ideas???


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## gjones (Oct 8, 2012)

*wire woes*

You should be getting full battery voltage back there on that wire. (Is your battery up to snuff?). If not, either it's a bad ground (can't hurt to re-check), or a faulty socket, or there is a very slight short in the hot wire going to the rear. Check for pinched/broken harness wires. do your taillights work?


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## sprdada76 (May 5, 2013)

nothing is working bask there......i'll check it out thanks


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## gjones (Oct 8, 2012)

*Voltaire*

If you haven't already, pull your fuse panel out-2 screws at the fuse panel (with battery disconnected) and check the backside of the terminals for corrosion and rust. You can pop each one out (with a fine blade screwdriver, or such. Push the tangs in) and hand clean each part of the fuse holder contacts by hand (or with a Dremel with a wire brush- just hold them firmly with needle nose pliers so they don't break off the wire, or break themselves, if they are in poor condition) just bend the tangs slightly back out when you re-install, they'll click back into place. Check also the ribbon wire (going under the carpet to the rear) for pinching or chaffing. Check voltages back there with a GOOD ground spot for your meter. Don't forget to double check your fuses!


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