# 69 LeMans Stalling



## 69LemansCV (Dec 3, 2009)

This may be a dumb question but my 69 LeMans stalls when I put it in gear. It idles well and drives well but after the engine is warm and has been run a while, if I put it in park then back into reverse or drive it will stall out. It only seems to happen after I've driven the car, turned off the engine, then started it back up after a few minutes when the engine/trans is still warm. What might be the problem? Thanks in advance!


----------



## 05GTO (Oct 6, 2004)

May be trash in the fuel line,


----------



## Rukee (Feb 8, 2007)

When exactly does it stall? As you press on the gas pedal? Or just as you drop it into gear? Is the accelerator pump working?


----------



## 69LemansCV (Dec 3, 2009)

Rukee said:


> When exactly does it stall? As you press on the gas pedal? Or just as you drop it into gear? Is the accelerator pump working?


If I start the car and let it run for a couple of minutes I can put it into reverse or drive without a problem. It only seems to happen when the car is warm and I turn off the engine. If the car has been driven, it stalls after I start it back up and try to put it in reverse or drive. In fact, yesterday it did it in my driveway several times and I had to give it gas to keep it running when I put it back into drive to get it back into the garage. That makes me wonder if it coulf be the fuel filter or pump????? Hmmmm?


----------



## Rukee (Feb 8, 2007)

No, not the fuel pump. Sounds more like maybe a vacuum leak? What's your idle rpm's?


----------



## 69LemansCV (Dec 3, 2009)

Rukee said:


> No, not the fuel pump. Sounds more like maybe a vacuum leak? What's your idle rpm's?


I couldn't tell you. Don't have a gun or tach but it does seem to idle high when warmed up and put into park. My guess is probably in the 600 to 800 range.


----------



## 05GTO (Oct 6, 2004)

It could also be Vapor Lock, how are the fuel lines routed thru the engine compartment?


----------



## 69LemansCV (Dec 3, 2009)

05GTO said:


> It could also be Vapor Lock, how are the fuel lines routed thru the engine compartment?


 I have an Edelbrock carb as well as intake manifold. Will need to go through it to see what's up. I bought the car this past December in Tampa and drove it back home to Houston without major issues. Just wondering why it has been acting up.


----------



## geeteeohguy (Feb 2, 2008)

If it were a fuel pump or filter issue, your car would die out under load, getting on the freeway, or under any hard accelleration. It's not that. I too suspect a vacuum leak, vapor lock, or mixture problem. Probably too lean. Does it just stall in REVERSE, but NOT drive? If so, you may have a frayed primary wire to the coil, etc. that's going open when the engine rocks slightly putting it in reverse. Just a thought, but I've seen it happen...........


----------



## Rukee (Feb 8, 2007)

If you're in a lot colder climate then Texas it may just need a choke adjustment.


----------



## 69LemansCV (Dec 3, 2009)

geeteeohguy said:


> If it were a fuel pump or filter issue, your car would die out under load, getting on the freeway, or under any hard accelleration. It's not that. I too suspect a vacuum leak, vapor lock, or mixture problem. Probably too lean. Does it just stall in REVERSE, but NOT drive? If so, you may have a frayed primary wire to the coil, etc. that's going open when the engine rocks slightly putting it in reverse. Just a thought, but I've seen it happen...........


The car runs pretty good even when warmed up and driven. The only time it dies on me is if I turn the engine off, then start it back up after a few seconds/minutes, then put it in either drive or reverse. It will die when put into either gear. Funny thing is, it does just fine when I start it up and go. It only happens after the engine/transmission is warm and has been driven a while. BTW, it starts well too. Even faster than any of my other newer vehicles. Don't even have to pump the accelerator.


----------



## 69LemansCV (Dec 3, 2009)

It has been a while but the problem remains. So far I've changed the tank, sending unit, fuel pump, fuel filter, and re-routed the fuel lines which did help but it still stalls out at low RPM after it has been driven and warmed up properly. When I drive it and come to a stop light, I always put the car in neutral. Then, when the light turns green, I give a slight bit of gas and put it in drive and it takes off OK. Just wondering what the problem could be. I also changed out the trans module and checked for vacuum leaks with carb cleaner with no success. Hmmmmmmm!


----------



## geeteeohguy (Feb 2, 2008)

It sounds like the carb linkage/fast idle/idle cam. It starts fine initially without stalling because the choke is partially on, and the position of the idle screw on the cam is boosting the idle just enough to keep it running. Once fully warmed up, you shut it off, and when you go to start and drive it, the cam is no longer in contact with the base idle screw, because it has rotated to a different position, like it is supposed to. Try adjusting your base idle screw when the engine is hot. I'm betting that's your problem. A half to a full turn clockwise should do it.


----------



## BearGFR (Aug 25, 2008)

Something else worth doing, would be to check your ignition timing. Make sure you disconnect the vacuum line at the distributor and plug it.

Bear


----------



## 69LemansCV (Dec 3, 2009)

Thanks guys, I'll try the carb adjustment first then the timing. The car does idle well once warmed up. Actually, it probably idles a little higher than it probably should once it warms up. I'll let you know what happens.


----------



## geeteeohguy (Feb 2, 2008)

Dwell, timing, carb. The "correct" sequence of adjustment. If you adjust thecarb first, and the timing is off, when you adjust IT, you're carb will need to be reset, etc. Set the points dwell(iff equipped), timing, and then idle mixture and idle speed. Good luck.


----------



## 69LemansCV (Dec 3, 2009)

geeteeohguy said:


> Dwell, timing, carb. The "correct" sequence of adjustment. If you adjust thecarb first, and the timing is off, when you adjust IT, you're carb will need to be reset, etc. Set the points dwell(iff equipped), timing, and then idle mixture and idle speed. Good luck.


Thanks for the info! I didn't get a chance to work on it yesterday, I got snookered into going shopping with the Mrs.


----------



## Glenn's Goat (Sep 7, 2010)

69LemansCV said:


> It has been a while but the problem remains. So far I've changed the tank, sending unit, fuel pump, fuel filter, and re-routed the fuel lines which did help but it still stalls out at low RPM after it has been driven and warmed up properly. When I drive it and come to a stop light, I always put the car in neutral. Then, when the light turns green, I give a slight bit of gas and put it in drive and it takes off OK. Just wondering what the problem could be. I also changed out the trans module and checked for vacuum leaks with carb cleaner with no success. Hmmmmmmm!


This sounds to me like a ignition problem. it sounds like at low rpm, your losing voltage to the coil , or the voltage is to low. You will need a DC volt meter and you should check the + wire to the coil while keeping the negative test lead to the negitive side of the battery. You should have around 9+ volts with the car at idle and at least 7.9 volts to 8 volts gear. If your getting 5 or 6 volts in gear you have a problem with the ballest wire, or your voltage regulator, also i would test the resistance of the ignition coil. Remove both + and - wires off the coil and measure resistance. You should have 1.9 ohms or more. I hope this helps


----------



## bambujr8 (Jun 12, 2013)

I know that this thread is from YEARS ago, but did you ever solve the problem? I have a lemans and it is constantly stalling also...


----------

