# Help heater core removal



## alanmay0 (Sep 3, 2015)

Hello I can't figure out how to remove the heater core on my 1967 GTO with a/c. The body is off of the frame and everything has been removed from the firewall so it could be painted. This is when we noticed that one of the heater core pipes was broken. So the blower and blower housing is removed and the heater core is exposed from the engine side of the firewall. So I have not need to drill hole etc. because there are no fender or wheel wells on the car. All the seats, dash, console, gauges etc have been removed. The heater box is exposed from the inside of the car also. After saying all of this I can not figure out how to remove the heater/, a/c box from the inside. What screws need to be removed from the inside to take the box loose from the firewall. All of the nuts have been removed from the outside. I only need to know what to remove from the inside so I can get to the core itself. Any pictures would also be welcome. Thank you so very much for any help you can provide. See pictures below
alan


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## Goat Roper (Oct 28, 2014)

There is a nut on the stud behind the inner fenderwell that you should be able to see with the front end clip removed.
It appears you have removed this nut so all you have to do is remove the ducts inside, the control cable and vac hoses and pry it loose.
Mark the vac hoses, the control has numbers under the rubber snoot and if original the hoses are color coded.
These should all be replaced as well.
Also the gasket set isn't really that good and I used rope putty to reassemble the unit after rebuilding it.
I also re glassed the fiberglass plenum since it was so brittle and A/C plenums are NLA.


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## pontiac (Mar 6, 2011)

don't forget the clamp around the end of the box where it attaches to the inside at the kick panel. usually got a lot of putty holding it in. main air duct is screwed to the box at the middle.


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## alanmay0 (Sep 3, 2015)

Thanks for the information. I tried to move the box from the inside of the car and it won't budge. It feels rock solid like it is welded in there. You are saying it should just pull off??? There must be something else holding it in place.

thanks again


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## Goat Roper (Oct 28, 2014)

alanmay0 said:


> Thanks for the information. I tried to move the box from the inside of the car and it won't budge. It feels rock solid like it is welded in there. You are saying it should just pull off??? There must be something else holding it in place.
> 
> thanks again


It's the putty and it will be hard as a rock.
Be really careful with the kick panel end of that plenum the fiberglass is brittle and if it breaks you will have to reglass the whole thing with cloth and resin.
They don't repro this part.
The clamp was missing on my kick panel and I had to fabricate one, a Stern pinball siderail I had laying around was the proper gauge and bend.
Use fresh rope putty to reassemble the clamshell after you replace the core and work the screws down easy so you don't snap a tab.


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## alanmay0 (Sep 3, 2015)

Thanks for all your help. I got it out using your information.


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## dd68gto (Nov 14, 2012)

Not going to do this until winter but I need to replace mine on my 68 with ac. I am now using the 5/8 to 3/4 reducer to by pass the core for the summer. I did notice a little upward tick to engine temperature but nothing crazy. So is it close to the same as 67? Any one have a step by step r and r ? Pictures ? I figured I needed to remove the right fender with inner but not sure what from there. Doug


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## 1968gto421 (Mar 28, 2014)

dd68gto said:


> Not going to do this until winter but I need to replace mine on my 68 with ac. I am now using the 5/8 to 3/4 reducer to by pass the core for the summer. I did notice a little upward tick to engine temperature but nothing crazy. So is it close to the same as 67? Any one have a step by step r and r ? Pictures ? I figured I needed to remove the right fender with inner but not sure what from there. Doug


Would be nice if someone did a video when they did this job and posted it, here or YouTube. Sometimes seeing is worth a hundred words.


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## Goat Roper (Oct 28, 2014)

dd68gto said:


> Not going to do this until winter but I need to replace mine on my 68 with ac. I am now using the 5/8 to 3/4 reducer to by pass the core for the summer. I did notice a little upward tick to engine temperature but nothing crazy. So is it close to the same as 67? Any one have a step by step r and r ? Pictures ? I figured I needed to remove the right fender with inner but not sure what from there. Doug


If it is like the '67 there is a dimple on the fenderwell, drill it out with a 1" holesaw to get to that nut. 
Break it loose with a socket and switch to a magnetic nut driver to remove the nut.
Reverse to assemble and use a 1" plastic plug to fill the hole.


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## dd68gto (Nov 14, 2012)

Any one got s picture of that dimple on fender wheel? Is is same on 68 with factory AC convertible. Doug


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## Goat Roper (Oct 28, 2014)

If it is there you will see it, turn the wheel to the right look at the area where the nut would be located behind it.


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## then68gto (Sep 26, 2014)

I know this is an old post but wanted to ask the following question. I have removed the AC/Heater from my 68GTO conv. I am thinking about not replacing it. I am not sure what to do with the vacuum lines and any other ancillary electrical and mechanical connections that were attached.


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## RMTZ67 (Mar 12, 2011)

then68gto said:


> I know this is an old post but wanted to ask the following question. I have removed the AC/Heater from my 68GTO conv. I am thinking about not replacing it. I am not sure what to do with the vacuum lines and any other ancillary electrical and mechanical connections that were attached.


Try the search. Punch in ac/heater core bypass...maybe something will pop up the can help.


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