# Z Bar and Headers Clearance



## Indy1K (May 16, 2008)

I have the 68 400 engine in my 65 GTO. It has the original Muncie 4 speed behind it. And we have added a stock power steering box to it. The problem I am running into is the clearance of the rag coupler to the steering shaft with the headers and the Z bar for the clutch and the headers. full movement is not possible.
The headers are new from Summit and supposed to work. 
I want to know if there is a set of headers out there that you have used successfully without modification of the Z bar or steering.

Thanks Folks,

Kevin

Indy1K


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## rickm (Feb 8, 2012)

with all the problems I read about header fitment on this site, I guess I should consider myself lucky. I bought from summit in 2010 a set of D564 doug's headers for my '65. back then they were $629.95. worth every penny, no problems with fitment. are your motor mounts good? you do have to use a smaller oil filter with these headers. AC #PF61 (trans-am).


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## Indy1K (May 16, 2008)

Hey Rick,
Yes, Motor mounts are new. I have heard that the D564's were the best. They are just so darn expensive. Are they ceramic coated? 
And so, no problems with clutch rod(s) connection, spring connection or full clutch throw?

Thanks,

Kevin


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## rickm (Feb 8, 2012)

yes, ceramic coated n look real nice. no problems with clutch components. however, the stock location for the clutch return spring on a '65 is a little hole on the exhaust pipe flange. you can use a later z bar set-up that you might already have. I fabricated a simple bracket for the return spring and mounted it to the motor mount bolt.


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## Indy1K (May 16, 2008)

Thanks,
Do you know of the part number or what year the later Z bar is?

Kevin


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## rickm (Feb 8, 2012)

look at a '66 set up online or in the gto restoration book where 2 springs are used '66-'67. pretty sure its just a matter of the '65 zbar missing a hole for a spring. check the ames catalog n see what it says about it. like I said, you might already have the zbar with the hole. just have to get the springs. compare your spring with the pictures in the ames catalog.


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## the65gto (Oct 9, 2008)

This is what I did, maybe unique to my setup. Both my rag joint and z bar hit my headers. The rag joint was just one of the nuts that when rotated touched the header. So I removed the nut, applied some creative grinding to the nut and reinstalled. It no longer hits the header. The z bar, I removed it and ground off the arm, rotated it a couple of degrees and re-welded in place. It was a PITA, but works. If I ever get a chance to get original OEM headers I am changing back. Oh yeah, forgot to add, because of my headers, I have to put the oil filter (short, long does not fit) in sideways, rotate it in place and then screw it on. Filter removal gets oil everywhere. :laugh: Had to relocate the brake line out of the way.


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## geeteeohguy (Feb 2, 2008)

I've installed several sets of tubing headers on these cars, and have always had to do what the65gto has done. With my '65, with Hedman headers, I had to dimple the tube with a ball peen hammer to clear the rag joint, and I had to modify the Z-bar to clear the lower tube. On a '66 I had, I re-located the upper pivot hole by welding a tag onto the Z bar to change the geometry so that the lower arm would clear completely. PITA, but worked like a charm. In 35+ years, I have never installed a set of tubing headers that _didn't _require some amount of blacksmithing.


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## rickm (Feb 8, 2012)

again, I consider myself lucky. never had to do any "blacksmithing" with either of my 2 gtos. for my '64 in the late '70s, I had a set of blackjack alumacoat headers that were not top of the line and had no issues with them. I did lay them in the engine compartment BEFORE dropping in the motor after a re-build.


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## Indy1K (May 16, 2008)

Thank you for all the followup info. I may try the Z bar tricks mentioned as this is the second set of headers on this build, but probably will spring for the D564s as I still have the body off and I like the ceramic look to.

Cheers,
Kevin


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