# Plastic Skid Plate



## vtalleyf (Aug 3, 2009)

I just changed my oil for the first time on my '05 GTO and now know there is a 20 pound metal skid plate covering everything up. Does anyone know if there is a lighter, maybe plastic, option?


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## Poncho Dan (Jun 30, 2009)

There are lots of options, you could either get a BMR skidplate (pretty much just sheet metal), an SLP skidplate (welded bars), or leave it off all together.

I've had mine off almost since the day I purchased the car. A lot of guys are going to tell you that you will need it just in case you hit something, but honestly it's very unlikely as the oil pan does not sit as far down as the K member. Even if you do strike something and mess it up (albeit unlikely), that's what comprehensive insurance is for.


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## jpalamar (Jul 22, 2008)

I wouldn't pay $0.01 for a light weight skid plate unless I was racing professional and weight reduction was beign taken very serious. It is just a waste of money. 

I actually took a dremmel and cut noches into 2 of the bolt holes on just 1 side of the plate. Now I only have to remove 2 screws and losten the other 2 to slide it off. It make things so much easier.

Hope this helps.


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## BobS (Jul 28, 2005)

1) While I agree it's unlikely you NEED it... I have a ding in my skidplate where it's been hit. 

2) For the purposes of oil changes... remove (3) bolts, leaving one of the rears in place (but loosened a couple turns). Just swing it out of the way. No big deal.


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## HP11 (Apr 11, 2009)

With the SLP skidplate, you can change the oil by just removing the filter.....


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## jpalamar (Jul 22, 2008)

HP11 said:


> With the SLP skidplate, you can change the oil by just removing the filter.....


Thats a pretty cool design.


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## vtalleyf (Aug 3, 2009)

Great suggestions. Thanks for the help guys


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## GM4life (Mar 18, 2007)

I know of a handfull of people that have hit the skid plate hard enough to damage it and not the oil pan. One guy accually cracked is oil pan because some chit in the road and lost oil.The oil pan is the lowest part of the car. if you drive your car on a trip and happen to crack your oil pan its not that easy of a fix. i'll keep my heavy plate on because I don't see the benefits of taking it off.


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## svede1212 (Nov 1, 2005)

You don't need it until you need it and then your engine is toast because you probably won' turn the car off fast enough. My skid plate has some nice nasty gouges. It's very easy to bottom out and where the K member doesn't matter. What can happen is when you turn into a driveway curb break the angle of the "hump" from the street and the angle of the car can make it bottom out right where the oil pan is. I know people that haven't used a seat belt since day one and they're fine. . . of course the day they're going to need it they're really going to need it.


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## Nomad (Dec 22, 2009)

I've used it, and it appears the previous owner has had need of it too. This car sits kind of low compared to many cars I've had in the past, so I would rather keep mine in place so I don't rip the hell out of my underside.


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## dustyminpin (Jun 19, 2006)

The BMR one looks to be chinsy and a waste of money. I've been eyeballing the the SLP tubular design for awhile now. Just haven't gotten around to ordering it. And yes, I too have a few nasty scrapes on my panic-room door skid plate.


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## cpr (Aug 3, 2006)

I purchased the slp skid tube frame!! its the best! easy acces and perhaps better cooling if air travels uder the car!! I live in northern wi. The roads are garbage from the frost heaves and more!! But it is rare that i bottom out the skid on the road but be safe and spend the money!! if you want to save weight look under the back plastic underneath your trunk and remove the v bracket for shipping! with bolts and bracket you might save 12 pounds


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## GM4life (Mar 18, 2007)

cpr said:


> I purchased the slp skid tube frame!! its the best! easy acces and* perhaps better cooling if air travels uder the car*!! I live in northern wi. The roads are garbage from the frost heaves and more!! But it is rare that i bottom out the skid on the road but be safe and spend the money!! if you want to save weight look under the back plastic underneath your trunk and remove the v bracket for shipping! with bolts and bracket you might save 12 pounds


I modified my stock one so air hits the oil pan. 

I've used my skid plate as an ice braker before. Had no choice but to drive to work after snow hit and some of it froze, you could hear the ice boucing off of it.


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## 6QTS11OZ (Mar 27, 2005)

Mine has been off since day one. If I hit something and damage the engine, I'll replace it. It's that simple. And like Poncho said, that's what comprehensive insurance is for.


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## AlaGreyGoat (Jul 6, 2006)

I modified my stock plate. Cut a round hole at the filter and
a rectangular hole at the drain. No need to remove it. I, also,
have some deep gouges in the plate.

Larry


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## Poncho Dan (Jun 30, 2009)

The plate adds just enough weight to cause the front suspension to bottom out over the bumps. 

I dunno, I still have it (and all the parts I pulled off) so I'll take a look at it when I change the oil after it comes out of storage. I seem to remember the oil pan appearing rather well protected, but the last time I was under there was about eight months ago.


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## GM4life (Mar 18, 2007)

:lol: Thats why the skid plate was put there for insurance. Insurance means incase chit happens, for the comprehinsive folks. I know first hand how fast insurance companies come to the rescue not very fast. If I'm three hundred plus miles away and I bust my chit up, I rely on comprehinsive I'll be in a bad way. You can do what you want with your car, some of you have deeper pockets and better luck than others. I'm just letting you know what stories I've heard and saw with my own eyes.


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## 6QTS11OZ (Mar 27, 2005)

GM4life said:


> :lol: Thats why the skid plate was put there for insurance. Insurance means incase chit happens, for the comprehinsive folks. I know first hand how fast insurance companies come to the rescue not very fast. If I'm three hundred plus miles away and I bust my chit up, I rely on comprehinsive I'll be in a bad way. You can do what you want with your car, some of you have deeper pockets and better luck than others. I'm just letting you know what stories I've heard and saw with my own eyes.


That's cool but like I've shared with plenty of folks before, AAA has been the greatest insurance company I have ever had and always have taken care of me on the day I've had problems. Plus having a good friend (Chief) on my team I don't have to worry about having fast repairs done to my car. Also he does insurance claims. You're right though, if anyone breaks down 300 miles away without free towing or some kinda low cost towing will be in bad shape. That's why I have AAA towing too.

I guess I'm just getting to a point that I know that anything, at anytime can happen to my cars. Whether it's hitting something on the oil pan or something major just failing like the piece of sh!t differential if you know what I mean. Reminds me of the saying, "Don't buy a car you can't afford to drive". Should have said, "Don't buy a car you can't afford to drive or keep on the road". That doesn't mean just putting gas in it. That's also I got rid of my '98 Vette. After finding out that my failing fuel pumps were going to cost, IIRC, $600 for one and $1100 for the other, I got rid of it. I could afford it at the time. I just didn't think it was reasonable though. Oh well! Like you said, people can do what they want to their cars so their choice is none of my business.


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## GM4life (Mar 18, 2007)

6QTS11OZ said:


> That's cool but like I've shared with plenty of folks before, AAA has been the greatest insurance company I have ever had and always have taken care of me on the day I've had problems. Plus having a good friend (Chief) on my team I don't have to worry about having fast repairs done to my car. Also he does insurance claims. You're right though, if anyone breaks down 300 miles away without free towing or some kinda low cost towing will be in bad shape. That's why I have AAA towing too.
> 
> I guess I'm just getting to a point that I know that anything, at anytime can happen to my cars. Whether it's hitting something on the oil pan or something major just failing like the piece of sh!t differential if you know what I mean. Reminds me of the saying, "Don't buy a car you can't afford to drive". Should have said, "Don't buy a car you can't afford to drive or keep on the road". That doesn't mean just putting gas in it. That's also I got rid of my '98 Vette. After finding out that my failing fuel pumps were going to cost, IIRC, $600 for one and $1100 for the other, I got rid of it. I could afford it at the time. I just didn't think it was reasonable though. Oh well! Like you said, people can do what they want to their cars so their choice is none of my business.


I know, I'm just stiring the pot. We all should have money on hand to fix our cars incase of emerganies. My insurance pays to have the car towed and repairs too. Having ordered parts for the GTO and G8 I know its not easy to get parts for them. Knowing that I take both of my cars on trips, not every Billy Jo Bob can fix these things or get parts for them.


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## Red Bearded Goat (Mar 19, 2007)

The only time it might provide a slight benefit (15 lb reduction) to take off the skid plate is at the drag strip.... provided you combine that with removing useless weight from the rear and trunk. IMHO, when cruisin around it only leaves your oil pan exposed.



BobS said:


> 1) While I agree it's unlikely you NEED it... I have a ding in my skidplate where it's been hit.
> 
> 2) *For the purposes of oil changes... remove (3) bolts, leaving one of the rears in place (but loosened a couple turns). Just swing it out of the way. No big deal*.


^Best advise in this thread...



Poncho Dan said:


> There are lots of options, you could either get a BMR skidplate (pretty much just sheet metal), an SLP skidplate (welded bars), or leave it off all together.
> 
> I've had mine off almost since the day I purchased the car. A lot of guys are going to tell you that you will need it just in case you hit something, but honestly it's very unlikely as the oil pan does not sit as far down as the K member. Even if you do strike something and mess it up (albeit unlikely), that's what comprehensive insurance is for.


In the front end the oil pan sits a couple inches below everything else. Both the SLP and BMR plates sit a little lower to the ground compared to the OEM plate. The SLP unit is made from thin walled aluminum tubing and sheds about 12 lbs of weight and provides less protection with its ease of access for oil changes($160). The BMR aluminum skid plate sheds about 10 lbs from the OEM steel plate and will provide similar protection that the OEM plate delivers($125). 



6QTS11OZ said:


> Mine has been off since day one. If I hit something and damage the engine, I'll replace it. It's that simple. And like Poncho said, that's what comprehensive insurance is for.


Lots of folks don't have deep enough pockets to throw caution into the wind and with all you have into your ride I don't understand why you would set yourself up for a 15 pound weight reduction. Technically.... insurance companies would most likely view it as a collision claim and not comprehensive unless parts of a dead animal were sticking out of the oil pan..... but, under either coverage they could reject the damage claim as fraudulent because the OEM skid plate was removed.



GM4life said:


> I know of a handfull of people that have hit the skid plate hard enough to damage it and not the oil pan..... i'll keep my heavy plate on because I don't see the benefits of taking it off.


My skid plate turned one fatassed possum into road kill at 75 mph one summer night 2 years ago..... I also believe its better to drive home under your own power than having the goat ridin bitch on a AAA tow truck.


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## 6QTS11OZ (Mar 27, 2005)

Red Bearded Goat said:


> Lots of folks don't have deep enough pockets to throw caution into the wind and with all you have into your ride I don't understand why you would set yourself up for a 15 pound weight reduction. Technically.... insurance companies would most likely view it as a collision claim and not comprehensive unless parts of a dead animal were sticking out of the oil pan..... but, under either coverage they could reject the damage claim as fraudulent because the OEM skid plate was removed.


I hear ya. The way I see it is the front of the GTOs are already too heavy. So to minimize the weight a bit since I have a Maggie and all of it's accessories, I wanted to cut some weight anyway I can. The Maggie's/components additional weight of 80lbs. or so on the stock suspension definitely, IMO, creates a non-safe condition if anything since the suspension was designed/engineered without the extra weight. So yeah I risk the chance of damaging my pan and engine IF I hit something but with the extra weight, how safely can I make a fast manuever to avoid hitting something and the stock suspension perform flawlessly with the extra weight that it wasn't designed to support? Just say you hit something and the skid plate prevent you from damaging you oil pan. What is going to prevent that same object from damaging your differential that is unprotected and hangs about as low as the oil pan? Yeah the diff is cheaper than an engine but what if in the process of the diff being ripped out, it destroys the driveshaft and somehow damage the transmission's output shaft or more? Bet it's not cheaper now. You'd think GM would have protected the diff too but they didn't. I guess I'm just looking at safety more than I am something that may never happen. 

FYI - With the weight reduction I've done to my car and the addition of my upgraded stereo system and supercharger it still weighs in at 3750 with a full tank of gas and tools in the trunk.


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## 6QTS11OZ (Mar 27, 2005)

GM4life said:


> I know, I'm just stiring the pot.


Yo bruh. Leave the pot stirring to the pros.


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## Poncho Dan (Jun 30, 2009)

Here's another one that's gonna start big debates  :

Come spring I'm pulling the tank cage & brackets... it should get me to a nice round 100 pound weight reduction with all the other things I've removed. Yeah it's not much to make a big difference in "performance", but inertia is inertia, whether it be from an acceleration, braking, or handling standpoint. Plus, my "deletes" are unnoticeable to anyone but me...

Besides, nothing says I can't use bags of shot for ballast if I need it for some reason over the rear wheels.

Edit: I do plan on weighing the parts individually and taking pictures of them on the scale, so we can finally put the "what weighs what" debates to rest.


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## 6QTS11OZ (Mar 27, 2005)

Poncho Dan said:


> Here's another one that's gonna start big debates  :
> 
> Come spring I'm pulling the tank cage & brackets... it should get me to a nice round 100 pound weight reduction with all the other things I've removed. Yeah it's not much to make a big difference in "performance", but inertia is inertia, whether it be from an acceleration, braking, or handling standpoint. Plus, my "deletes" are unnoticeable to anyone but me...
> 
> ...


Poncho "The Pot Stirrer" Dan.

That has a nice ring to it.


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## Poncho Dan (Jun 30, 2009)

:rofl:


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## GM4life (Mar 18, 2007)

Poncho Dan said:


> Here's another one that's gonna start big debates  :
> 
> Come spring I'm pulling the tank cage & brackets... it should get me to a nice round 100 pound weight reduction with all the other things I've removed. Yeah it's not much to make a big difference in "performance", but inertia is inertia, whether it be from an acceleration, braking, or handling standpoint. Plus, my "deletes" are unnoticeable to anyone but me...
> 
> ...


It's better to keep weight over the rear wheels so why take out the "tank" brace? Remove the skid plate, engine, hood, and the junk struts, its better to remove the weight in front of the car. If you going to do it do it right.


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## Poncho Dan (Jun 30, 2009)

That would really only matter from an extreme handling or launching standpoint though (which could be remedied with better tires). Besides, if it sucks real bad after I pull the tank brace, I can always put the spare & jack back in, which I'll need to do if I ever go more than 20 miles from home.

Besides, there's not much to shave off the front without spending big bucks, which is retarded, IMO. Outside of replacing the battery for a smaller, bare minimum CCA battery, what's the point? If I buy a non-factory CF hood, then I have to pay someone to paint it. For that price I might as well buy a set of stepped headers.

I didn't get rid of anything I took out, so it can all be put back if need be.


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## Poncho Dan (Jun 30, 2009)

BTW, I found out that the guy selling those CF front 1/4s actually makes them out of fiberglass, then wraps them in carbon fiber. The word on the street is that they actually weigh more than the stock 1/4s.


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## GM4life (Mar 18, 2007)

Why did you take me seriously?


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## Poncho Dan (Jun 30, 2009)

Well, I should have clarified that a having a tight budget was my reasoning, but I should have known when you said to remove the engine...  :lol:

And didn't you remove your tow brace?


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## GM4life (Mar 18, 2007)

Poncho Dan said:


> Well, I should have clarified that a having a tight budget was my reasoning, but I should have known when you said to remove the engine...  :lol:
> 
> And didn't you remove your tow brace?


Shure did. But there is no oil pan back there That and the muffler heat shields, I figure useless things that don't need to be there, needs to be gone.


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## 87GN06GTO07IRL (Aug 10, 2009)

I use the Slp and love it for oil changes and im all about the weight reduction. Taking any amount of weight off the front of these pigs helps tremendously.


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